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THE 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



Volume XI ^ / 



June-July, 1906 — May, 1907 



Copyright, 1906 — 1907, by The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



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Published Monthly by 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

Publication P^fice:';-^ 71: Boylston Street 

' BOSTON, MASS. 



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co;mplete index vol. xi 

June-July, 1906^ May, 1907 



Page 

About Beds 201 

A Box of Spanish Onions 414 

A Chapter on Tea-houses (111.) 357 

A Chemist's Ice Cream 69 

A Chinese Christmas Tree (111.) 213 

A Christmas Cat 223 

A Church Service in Dixie Land 172 

A Cooking-school Bride 267 

A Daisy Wedding 39 

A Deep-woods Problem 460 

After Breakfast Chat.. 37, 97, 151, 198, 246, 

294, 343 

A Great Banquet 276 

A House Warming 71 

A Light Portfolio 299 

A Modern Hospital Kitchen (111.).... 61 

A New Way of Canning 183 

A Philosopher 318 

April 413 

Art of the Hearth (111.) 458 

A Scientific Play-day 219 

Asparagus 471 

A Summer in South Chatham 411 

Aunt Elinor's Visit 270 

Aunt Martha 418 

Autumn Days 115 

A Vegetarian Restaurant in London.. 275 

A Witch Party 133 

Baking Beans in the Orient 277 

Browning in the Kitchen 178 

Christmas Diary of a Young Girl 221 

Cookery for Young Housekeepers.... 391, 

438, 486 

Cooking in a Lumber Camp 326 

Diet in Childhood, etc... 229, 323, 369, 421, 

468 

Dish-washing 371 

Doctors and Cooks 467 

Edible Menu Cards 200 

Editorials, 22, 80, 136, 184, 232, 280, 328, 376. 

424, 472 

Emily Dickinson 14 

Failure and Success in Cake-making... 153 

Foreign Pensions 45, 202 

For the Summer's Bloom 423 

Ginger 345 

Good Form 417 

Hallowe'en Tables 122 

Harvard's Foster Child 261 

Her Joel 419 

Home Ideas and Economies. 47, 103, 156, 
203, 249, 300,. 348, 395, 443, 491 

Honoria the Second 316 

Hospitality Made Easy 75 

How Bet Lou Kept the Ordinance.... 463 
How We Kept House After the Earth- 
quake 40 

In February 323 

In Wonderland 465 



Page 

Jamie's Opinion 368 

Ladies' Luncheons 283 

Life in a Mining-camp in Arizona.... 462 

Memorial Hall and Its Kitchens (111.). 309 

Menus for Christmas Dinner 244 

Menus for Family of Two 485 

Menus for Little Luncheons 259 

Menus, Seasonable, 33, 93, 96, 147, 150, 196, 

197, 245, 292, 293, 340, 342, 388, 390, 435, 437, 

483, 484 

Minor Thanksgiving Reasons 170 

Moravian Candy 228 

New Year's Day 268 

October 128 

Old Time Arts and Crafts 3 

On the Italian Lakes (111.) 453 

Organization 319 

Perfume Therapeutics 135 

Pots and Kettles 365 

Royal Motherhood 20 

Rhubarb in Winter 182 

Salem Porches 165 

Schools of Cookery in France 296 

Simmons College Commencement... 78 

Slumber Song (111.) 457 

Soap Day in the Second Ward 367 

Social Bribes 16 

Some Historic Dining Rooms 405 

Somewhere Today 307 

Suggestions for Stag Parties 224 

Sunshine and Shadow 11 

Table Manners 129 

Tamales 416 

"That Ramshakle" 125, 173 

The Art of Packing 18 

The Changing Seasons 229 

The Combination Stew of Amzi Bean. 321 

The Delayed Bloom 21 

The Home-taught Bride 34! 

The Kitchen Pantry Beautiful 42 

The Last of Pea-time 67 

The Next Thing 466 

The Old Apple Tree 8 

The Only Cure for Spring Fever 374 

The Passing of Madame Begue's 226 

The Public Schools of Today (111.)... 117 

The Reheating of Food 297 

The Servant in Holland 9 

The Sky's a Garden 131 

The Valley de la Haute Gourmandise. . 12 

The Vanishing Menu 363 

The Way Back Home 490 

The "What-if"..... 121 

The Wisdom of Being Behind Time.. 273 

The Wonder Book 274 

Three Hundred Miles of Blackberry 

Pie 73 

To Arcadee 371 

Two Ways with the Simple Life 131 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 
What the Sexton's Wife Thought 

About It 180 

When Maria Got Even 123 

When Sleeps the Land 218 

With the Help of a Brother 375 

Worth While 248 

RECIPES:— 

A Late-summer Breakfast Dish (111.) 84 

Anchovies, Scalloped (111.) 427 

Apple Pralinees (III.) 193 

Apple Tarts (111.) 337 

Apples, Manhattan Style (111.) 241 

Apples, Steamed 142 

Antichokes, Jerusalem 429 

Baba, or Wine Cake, with Sauce.... 287 

Beef Balls with Spaghetti (111.) 383 

Beef, Fillet of, Larded (111.) 237 

Beef Hash, Russian Style (111.) 334 

Beef Tenderloin, Timbales of (111.) . . 333 

Biscuit Glace 288, 241 

Biscuit, Southern Beaten (111.) 88 

Bisque of Oysters 187 

Blanc-Mange, Caramel (111.) 337 

Bombe Glace, Strawberry (111.) 31 

Bread Croutons, Imperial 289 

Brussels Sprouts 339 

Butter, Red Pepper 476 

Cake, Chocolate-Cream, with Cream 

Icing (111.) 144 

Cake, German Apple (111.) 386 

Cake, Lady Baltimore 242, 243, 433 

Cake, Our Christmas 242 

Cake, Pistachio, with Boiled Frost- 
ing (111.) 144 

Cake, Pound (111.) 143 

Cakes, Butternut (111.) 194 

Cakes, Little Gold (111.) 240 

Cakes, Plain Ginger (111.) 434 

Canapes, Anchovy (111.) 475 

Canapes, Anchovy and Egg 379 

Cantaloupe, Elegant (111.) 89 

Caramels, Choice Butter and Cream. 243 

Cauliflower, Supreme of (111.) 239 

Celery, Creamed au Gratin (111.) .... 139 
Charlotte Russe, Individual (111.) ... 194 
Cheese-Cups with Bar-le-duc Cur- 
rants (111.) 480 

Cheese, Savory 431 

Chicken, Bechamel, in Patty Cases 

(111.) 85 

Chicken, Chafiing-dish 339 

Chicken Croquettes, Roosevelt (111.) 86 

Chicken Pilau, Turkish Style (111.).. 141 

Chicken Timbales (111.) 188 

Cocktail, Grape-fruit (111.) 331 

Codfish, Fresh Broiled (111.) 476 

Consomme Rachel 284 

Consomme with Poached Eggs 379 

Crabs, Soft Shell, Newburgh 83 

Cream Cheese Pyramids 291 

Cream, Ginger Bavarian (111.) 480 

Crusts, Gratinated for Soup (111.) . . . 379 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 285 

Cucumbers, Romaine 91 

Cupid's Wells (111.) 32 

Custard, Renversee, with Almonds 

nil.) 481 

Custards, Silver-and-Gold (111.) 146 



Page 

Cutlets, Shad Roe (111.) 427 

Dessert, Pineapple (111.) 433 

Dominoes, Sponge 146 

Doughnuts, Yeast (111.) 385 

Dressing, Cream 480 

Dressing, French 27 

Eggs, Cocotte (111.) 190 

Eggs, Poached on Toast (111.) 380 

Eggs in Ramequins (111.) 380 

Eggs, Stuffed, Sauce Tartare 195 

English Muffins 290 

Fanchonettes, Rhubarb (111.) 30 

Filling, Charlotte Russe 32 

Fish Balls with Relish (111.) 381 

Fish en Casserole (111.) 381 

Fish Forcemeat 26 

Fowl, Jellied, with Salad (111.) 430 

Fowl, Steamed with Rice (111.) 86 

Fudge, Fruit and Nut Caramel 146 

Gauffres (111.) 240 

Gosling, Roast 237 

Grape-fruit 283 

Grape-fruit with Currants (111.) 332 

Green Corn, Creole Style 84 

Halibut, Creamed Smoked 235 

Halibut, Medallions of. Editor's Stvle 284 
Halibut Steaks, Baked, (111.)....:.. 380 

Ham, Broiled .- 235 

Hash, Lamb and Potato 27 

Hors d' OEuvre, Hot, Oyster 235 

Hot Toasted Wafers, etc 288 

Ice Cream, Strawberry 481 

Ice Cream, Strawberry, Panache 

(111.) 482 

Icing, Boiled 195 

Jelly, Grape-fruit (111.) 331 

Kaiser Semmeln (111.) 29 

Lady Fingers, South Chatham (111.) 146 

Lamb, Boned Loin of (111.) 33.3 

Lamb, Broiled Medallions of, with 

Lima Bean Puree (111.) 333 

Lamb Chops, Maintenon Style...... 286 

Lamb Chops, Planked (111.) 478 

Liver, Calf's, Hashed 430 

Macaroni, Creamed au Gratin (111.) . 431 
Macaroni, Baked with Milk and 

Cheese 385 

Madelines (111.) 432 

Marshmallows, Toasted 143 

Meringue 31 

Mincemeat 240 

Mint Punch 27 

Muffins, Blueberry (111.) 29 

Muif ins. Rich Graham 433 

Mushroom, Preparation for Chops.. 286 

Mushrooms, Stuffed (111.) 28 

Omelet, Green Pepper 139 

Onions Stuffed with Nuts (111.) .... 191 

Orange Punch 290 

Oyster Broth, Tomato 187 

Oyster Croquettes 289 

Oysters, Creamed in Casserole (111.) 382 

Parfait, Nesselrode Style (111.) 145 

Parsnips, Creamed 429, 479 

Partridge with Bread Sauce (111.)... 188 

Pastry, Flaky 195 

Peach Cocktail 91 

Peach Cup 91 

Peach Short Cake (111.) 90 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Peaches, Melba Style 88 

Pie, Apple, with Meringue 194 

Pie, Cherry (111.) 30 

Pie, Cottage, 190 

Pie, Fig (111.) 193 

Pie, Gooseberry 31 

Pigeons en Casserole (111.) 384 

Popcorn Balls 142 

Pork, Leg of (111.)... 332 

Polish Buck (111.) 478 

Potatoes en Casserole 285 

Potatoes, Farce (111.) 191 

Potatoes, Stuffed (111.) 335 

Preserve, Vanilla Chestnut (111.) 145 

Pudding, Bread (111.) 193 

Pudding, Carrot 240 

Pudding, Cherry (111.) 89 

Pudding, Cottage, with Cream Sauce 386 

Pudding, Rice, Porcupine Style 338 

Pudding, Spanish 29 

Punch, Cranberry 195 

Punch, Grape-fruit (111.) 385 

Relish, Philadelphia (111.) 381 

Risotto for Chops 286 

Rolls, Fruit-and-Nut (111.) 143 

Salad, Apple-and-Date (111.) 339 

Salad, Asparagus in Beet Rings (111.) 478 
Salad, Cabbage, Boiled Dressing.... 431 

Salad, Celery-and-Apple (111.) 192 

Salad, Egg, Tomato-and-Green Pep- 
per (111.) 88 

Salad, Fish, Sardine Dressing (111.). 140 
Salad, Lettuce, Chestnut-and-Cherry 287 

Salad, Mexican 192 

Salad, New Beets with Asparagus 

Tips (111.) 479 

Salad, Orange (111.) 27 

Salad, Prune and Pecan Nut 386, 479 

Salad, Salmon, Green Butter (111.) . . 29 
Salmon, Boiled, Caper Sauce (111.) . . 25 
Salmon, Boiled, with Forcemeat (111.) 25 

Sauce, Cold Sabayon, Royal 89 

Sauce, Foamy 338 

Sauce, Joinville 26 

Sauce, Supreme 87 

Sauce, Tomato 7 336 

Sausages Cooked with Apples (111.) 238 
Sausages with Fried Apples (111.) . . . 238 

Scrod, Broiled, Anchovy Sauce 25 

Sherbet, Grape-fruit (111.) 385 

Sherbet, Spring (111.) 433 

Snipe, Roast (111.) 141 

Souffle, Celery 139 

Souffle, Individual Chicken 431 

Soup, Chicken, with Whites of Eggs 476 
Soup, Cream of Lettuce and Green 

Pea 83 

Soup, Emergency 475 

Soup, Materials for (111.) 84 

Spun Sugar (111.) 32 

Squash au Gratin 191 

Squash, Baked with Molasses 140 

Steak, Hamburg, a la Tartare (111.) . 430 
Steak, Sirloin en Caserole (III.) .... 384 

Strawberry Short Cake 482 

Sweetbreads with Macaroni, Braised 

(111.) 477 

Tartlets, Apricot, with Meringue 
(111.) 432 



Page 

Timbales, Canned Corn 339 

Timbales, Cheese (111.) 335 

Timbales en Surprise, with Sauce 

(111.) 428 

Tongue for Game Course (111.) 27 

Turkey, Galantine of (111.) 236 

Veal Balls (111.) 28 

Veal, Blanquette of 476 

Veal Collops en Casserole 339 

Venison Cutlets, Broiled, with Sauce 238 
Yeast Rolls (111.) 338 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS:— 

Almonds, Salted 497 

Anchovy Paste, Keeping of 257 

Apples, Gingered 253 

Aspic, Chicken 447 

Banquet, New Year's 255 

Beef, Medallions of 400 

Beef, Pressed Corned 305 

Beets, Canning of 258 

Biscuit, Tea Ill 

Bouillon, Chicken 448 

Bran Bag, Sweet Scented 399 

Bread, Baking in Gas Range 498 

Bread, Boston Brown, Hygienic... 447 
Bread, Boston Brown, with Raisins. 160 

Bread, Corn 401 

Bread, French, 255 

Bread, Graham 208 

Bread, Preparing for, at Night 352 

Bread, Temperature for Baking 161 

Breakfast and Supper Dishes at 

Schools 254 

Cake, Black Fruit 450 

Cake, Cranberry 401 

Cake, Cream Sponge 1 12 

Cake, Nut Layer, with Chocolate Nut 

Frosting 400 

Cake, Plain White 258 

Cake, Sticky 113 

Cake, Sultanna 497 

Cake, Velvet Sponge 496 

Cakes, Almond Griddle 207 

Cakes, Lemon Cheese 57 

Carrots, New, with Peas 449 

Casserole Cooking , . 252 

Cauliflower, Baked 58 

Celery Stuffed, with Cheese 110 

Charlotte, Raspberry 114 

Cheese and Bar-le-Duc Currants, 

Service of 498 

Cheese Balls 57 

Cheese Straws, Glace of 448 

Cherry Bisque 208 

Chicken, Curried 354 

Chicken, Deviled 58 

Chicken or Veal, Pressed 305 

Chili con Carne 399 

Chips, Orange and Pumpkin 253 

Chops, Regarding Mutton 162 

Claret Cup 110 

Coffee, Egg .• 160 

Coffee, Turkish 447 

Cocktail, Grape-fruit 208 

Cornucopias for Serving Ice Cream. 497 
Cookies. Drop, with Sour Cream.... 161 
Cranberry Ice and Mint Sherbet... 162 
Cream, Bavarian 112 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Croquettes, Macaroni 161 

Crumpets. English 354 

Custard, Lemon 112 

Desserts, Non-flesh-making 305 

Diet in Flatulency 114 

Digestion of Cereals 210 

Dinner, 20th Anniversary. 255 

Dressing, Boiled Salad 110 

Eclairs, Sardine or Anchovy 109 

Egg Timbales 57 

Eggs, Preserving 209 

Eggs, Scrambled 402 

Eggs. Snow 354 

Entrees, Recipes for 400 

Fig Paste 401 

Figs, Bag 402 

Finnan Haddie 401 

Fish Baked in Cream 447 

Food for Children Teething 353 

Foundation for Cheese Cutlets 208 

Frogs' Legs Fricasseed with Sherry. 448 

Fruit Cocktails 401 

Fruit Salads, Time of Serving 210 

Garnishes for Roasts 254 

Ginger, Canned or Preserved Ill 

Ham Croutons 110 

Ham, How to Fry 113 

Ham Mousse 56 

Irish Moss Blanc-mange 55 

Jam, Rose Leaf 255 

Jelly, Cranberr}' 209 

Jelly, Cucumber 352 

Jelly, Ginger 495 

Jelly, Grape 258 

Jelly, Mint (Apple) 253 

Jelly, Mint (Gelatine) 256 

Jelly, to harden Quince 353 

Jelly, Sugar in Apple 353 

Lettuce Leaves 109 

Luncheon, Five Course 496 

Melon Mangoes 58 

Menu for Crystal Wedding 56 

Menu for Formal Dinner 448 

Menu for Silver Wedding 495 

Menus and Decorations for Formal 

Banquet 55 

^lenus for Friday Night Parties.... 254 

^Menus, Vegetarian for June 58 

Mousse, Chicken . . 498 

Mousse, IMaple 497 

Muffins, Buckwheat Ill 

]\Iushrooms Cooked Under Glass.... 450 
^lushrooms, To Prevent Discoloring 

of 496 

Nut Loaf with Sauce 159 

Oysters, Pickled 399 

Pancake, German Potato 207 

Parfait, Maple 497 



Page 

Parfait, Marron 306 

Parfait, Orange 256 

Paste, Almond 209 

Peas and Lentils, Cookery of Dried. 304 

Peas Baked as Beans 304 

Pickles with Mustard Seed 110 

Pie, Banana 208 

Pie, Nut Custard 210 

Pie Crust 162 

Pie Crust, to prevent Soggy 304 

Pork, Salt 109 

Potatoes, Bermuda and Franconia.. 448 

Potatoes, Lyonnaise 401 

Potatoes, Hashed, Brown 160 

Potatoes, Served with Roasts 254 

Potatoes, Sweet, Southern Style.... 449 

Pudding, English Plum, with Sauce.. 306 

Pudding, Graham 304 

Pudding, Indian Tapioca 207 

Pudding, Lady Hazelrigg 449 

Pudding, Lemon Souffle 112 

Pudding, Lemon, Steamed Ill 

Pudding, Nesselrode, with Sauce..., 399 

Pudding, Orange 449 

Pudding, Poor Man's Rice 258 

Pudding, Yellow Frozen, with Sauce 159 

Puddings Simple 258 

Punch, Roman Ill 

Sage and Onion 208 

Salpicon of Fruit in Cups 496 

Salpicon of Strawberries and Pine- 
apple 496 

Sandwiches, Club 162 

Sandwiches, Mint 207 

Sauce, Mint 57 

Sauce, Cheese 57 

Sauce, Cranberry 209 

Sherbet, Currant and Strawberry.. 110 

Souffle, Celery 306 

Soup, Crecy 210 

Soup, Mushroom 210 

Soup Stock 400 

Soup, Strained, Chicken Gumbo.... 352 

Soup, Tomato, Curdling of . 161 

Table for Fair _ 209 

Terrapin a la Maryland 160 

Timbales, Chicken 496 

Timbales, Egg-plant 449 

Tinting Cakes, Ices, etc 450 

Toast, Anchovy 257 

Toast, Mock Crab 257 

Truffles _ 450 

Vegetables, Cooking of Dried or 

pressed 304 

Watermelon Rind, Preserved 450 

Wine, Angelica 209 

Woodcock, Scotch 257 



Strawberries^, French Fashion. 



Lobster Newburg in Casseroles. 

Cucumbers, French Dressing. 



Breaded Sweetbreads, Asparagus Tips. 



Broiled Jumbo Squabs or Spring Chickens. 
Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 



Pineapple (Tinted Green) Bombe Glace. 
Assorted Cakes. Coffee. 



^formal 2)inner 

Clams on Half -shell, with Cocktail Liquid in Cup. 
Moulded Consomme on Lettuce Leaves. 
Fried Brook Trout or Salmon Croquettes, Sauce Tartare or Cucumbers 
Braised Sweetbreads with Mushrooms and Cream. 
Roast Lamb, New Currant Jelly. 
Mint Pimch. 
Chateau Potatoes. Artichoke Bottoms Filled with Asparagus Tips, 
Hollandaise Sauce. 
Hot Boiled Tongue, Orange Salad. 
Cup St. Jacques. 
Cheese Balls. Svea Wafers, Toasted. Radishes. Black Coffee. 




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The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. XL 



JUNE-JULY 



No. 




Arts and Crafts House, Marblehead, Mass, 



Old Time Arts and Crafts 

By Mary H. Northend 



THE arts and crafts movement 
which is so rapidly gaining 
favor with the American peo- 
ple is not, as might be generally sup- 
posed, a modern-day innovation. It 
came into vogue hundreds of years ago, 
under no particular name, it being a 
necessity rather than a fad. 

High up in a grimy old building, 
which stands a prominent feature in 
one of our Eastern towns, is carried on 
a co-operative handicraft partnership. 
Originally, this was under the super- 
vision of the Arts and Crafts Society in 



Boston; but, after fostering it for a 
length of time, it was left to be operated 
by three steady work-women, whose 
aim was true craftsmanship and a de- 
velopment of individual character in 
connection with artistic work. 

An American woman is the designer, 
two Finlanders doing the work, while 
at times one finds here a young French- 
man, a wood-carver, who makes ex- 
quisite bits in copper and silver. 

Down in Ipswich, Mass., the art of 
pillow lace is still going on, reviving the 
industry of long years ago. In Scituate 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Making the Warp 



dainty picture frames are made, the 
creations of the wizard artist, Watson- 
Dawson. 

Marblehead, the quaint old town, 
noted since early days, has on her shore 
a sanatorium along the arts and crafts 
line. Here nerves are successfully 
treated with work, all of which is but 
a resurrection of an old-time industry. 

Deerfield was the spot where this 
work commenced. It was done by 
an organization known as the Society 
in Blue and White Embroidery. They 
taught the old stitches, and used thread 
dyed by a Deerfield inhabitant. 

Let those who have given little 
thought to the subject go back to the 
early days of our country's settlement, 
to the time when our emigrant ances- 
tors, noted housekeepers, plied indus- 
triously the needle and wheel, while 



they looked well to the comforts of 
their households. Specimens of then- 
handicraft are carefully treasured to- 
day in the homes of their descend- 
ants, — bits of the old-time industry 
which hold their own by the side of 
the twentieth-century work. 

In imagination we can enter the 
ample kitchen of the log cabin that 
formed the first home of the colonists. 
It was the centre of family life. Here^ 
gathered around the cheery blaze, we 
find the household, each one busy with 
his evening task. On the settle placed 
in the most sheltered nook sits the 
revered grandame, busih^ plying her 
needles, the long sock of home-made 
wool growing rapidly under her skilful 
hands. With her foot she gently rocks 
the cradle in which the youngest mem- 
ber of the household lies sleeping. 



Old Time Arts and Crafts 



Around her knee are gathered the httle 
ones, who with upturned faces Hsten 
eagerly to the stories of her childhood 
home, far away in the mother land, 
across the sea. 

Neatly clad in linsey-woolsey gown 
and petticoat of blue, the busy good- 
wife glances approvingly at her little 
flock as she steps lightly back and 
forth, attending to the great wheel. 
The roar of the flames as they dance 
merrily up the chimney throat, prac- 
tically drown the continuous buzz. 
The whir of the flax-wheel harmoni- 
ously hums in unison with the great 
wheel. This is tended by the older 
daughters, who are busy at work, pre- 
paring a stock of linen against their 
wedding day. In preparation for the 
morrow's weaving, the youngsters fit- 
fully rattle the quill wheel as they fill 
the quills for their mother's use. 

Not like to-day are the rooms lighted 
with gas, electricity, or lamps. The 
red light from pine knots, heaped high 



on the glowing fire, throw fantastic 
shadows on dusky walls and closed 
shutters. This is a domestic picture 
of the early days when our forefathers 
sought a new land for freedom of re- 
ligious thought. 

Old-time arts and crafts included 
practically all that is manufactured 
at the present day. They comprised 
lace-work, bead- work, embroidery, quilt- 
ing, and rug-making. Each of the 
thrifty New England housekeepers had 
her own particular design for quilts, 
lace, and rugs. These she treasured, 
and they have been handed down 
through successive generations, and 
some of them are still to be found in 
modern homes, used in the arts and 
crafts movement to-day. 

In the manufacture of these articles 
an infinite amount of time and patience 
were required, for machinery had not 
then come into use, so that clothes must 
be homespun, sheets must be woven 
and edging wrought by hand. Calico 




Leather Tooling at Mrs. Low's Studio, Gloucester, Mass. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




A Group of Lace-makers, Ipswich, Mass. 

and prints were not common during 
the first century of our country's ex- 
istence, and pieces left over from dresses 
were much sought after, to help out 
the making of a quilt. The patterns 
were most intricate, and named accord- 
ing to design. There was the "Rising 
Sun," the "Log Cabin," and the "Rose 
of Sharon." One of these quilts still 
treasured in a Salem home is an inter- 
esting old-time production. It was the 
result of a wager between five colonial 
daughters as to who, starting quilts 
the same day, could have hers finished 
first, this one winning the prize. It 
contains 1,152 pieces, each star shaded 
in coloring, and was finished when the 
maker was but fifteen years old. 

Quilting parties constituted one of 
the sources of enjoyment, when our 
country was sparsely settled, and it 
meant a general jollification. The in- 
vitations were sent out often weeks 
beforehand, and its coming off was talked 
of during the long vSunday noonings. 

Everybody from far and near was 
invited to attend the "bee," and you 



may be very sure that few stayed at 
home. Days before the great event the 
old brick oven was brought into requisi- 
tion, and filled to its utmost capacity. 
There were brown bread and beans, 
turkey and hams, squash, mince pies, 
and doughnuts. 

A dozen workers surrounded the 
frame on which a quilt was stretched, 
and, while the needles flew busily, the 
gossip of the day was frequently dis- 
cussed. When the quilts were finished, 
supper was announced, afterwards a 
good time was participated in by all. 
Pompey brought out the fiddle, and to 
sound of its twang old and young joined 
in the Virginia reel, and swung their 
partners with a vigor not to be found 
in the dance of to-day. 

The art of pillow lace was brought 
over from England about 1790. It 
was begun in Ipswich, where it seemed 
to be a local industry, rising to such 
importance that 4,200 yards of home- 
made lace were wrought in a year. 
For a while this industry died out 
through the innovation of machinery- 
made patterns, but within the last few 
years the fad has revived, and old pil- 
lows relegated to attics have been 
brought forth to do duty again under 
the guidance of the grand-daughters of 
the original owners. Bits of lace made 
in 1763 are still in existence, and are 
said by connoisseurs to excel the finest 
lace of to-day. The pillows on which 
it was made differed from those of 
to-day in that, while the modern are 
square, the old-time are round. They 
were constructed of home-made linen, 
into which was carefully placed suffi- 
cient hay or bran to give them the 
proper size. In the stuffing the work 
had to be carefully done, that the pat- 
terns of lace might be evenly made. 
There was placed over the first coat 
one of thinner material, elastic in cov- 
ering, while around this was carefully 
laid the parchment, which had been 
cut out of skins by a person who made 
a specialty of this branch of work. 



Old Time Arts and Crafts 



In addition to the cutting of the skins 
to the proper width, she pricked on 
them the patterns to be used. The 
pillow was generally about eighteen 
inches across, although the width of 
the lace governed the size. The vel- 
lum, or parchment, was fastened to 
the centre, and accurately pinned to 
the corners. Pricking had to be done 
with great care lest the design be in- 
jured. 

Elaborate patterns on parchment 
were often colored by the workers 
through a mixture of saffron and gum 
arabic, which gave to it a yellow tint. 
This was a great saving to eyesight 
when a difficult pattern was in- 
volved. 

The lace fell, when completed, into 
a small bag, which depended at one 
side. The pins used in the work were 
generally imported, as was the thread. 
They had to be of a particular kind of 
steel, very long and sharp. Stuck se- 
curely into the pillow, they held the 
lace firmly in place during the process 
of manufacture. The beginner in this 
branch of arts and crafts was first 
taught the simple chain edging. Later 
on she took up the ' 'fan," ' 'hen's comb," 
"double ten," and, becoming more ex- 
pert, worked out the bull's eye and cat- 
face patterns, — fine and delicate in 
their texture. Experts in this particu- 
lar branch of arts and crafts have been 
known to make patterns that required 
the use of one hundred bobbins. 

Many a romance has been woven into 
a bit of bead-work as the deHcate fingers 
of the worker flew in and out, mastering 
a new pattern and forming a bead 
watch chain for her lover. These were 
wrought on an oblong frame of wood, 
by winding the woof in and out of the 
warp, producing dainty clusters of roses 
and other equally attractive decorative 
designs. Bead bags were a popular 
ornament for the fairer sex, more es- 
pecially when the dainty garment 
allowed no place for a pocket, — a neces- 
sary adjunct. Many of these bags or 



pockets were semi-oval in shape and 
elaborate in design. The ground- work 
was varied, some being made with a 
dark background, which showed off 
the light-colored figures to great ad- 
vantage: others had a fight back- 
ground, which made an appropriate 
setting for the figures wrought of castles, 
animals, and oft-times initials. 

Long and narrow purses had a sht 
in the middle, and rings on either side 
were used to slip over the purse and 
keep the money in place. They were 
caught together with a steel chain to 
be worn over the arm, crocheted of 
silk made especially for this purpose. 
The beads were carefully strung be- 
forehand according to rule, as a varia- 
tion of even one bead made an irre- 
trievable error in pattern. 

The merchant princes, in the days 
of Salem's commercial prosperitv, at 




Colonial Surroundings help the Revival of 
Lace-making 



8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the time when the stately minuet was 
in favor, wore ruffled shirts deep in 
rich embroidery, these ruffles falhng 
over their shapely hands. 

The modern arts and crafts move- 
ment, which is engrossing the attention 
of the present-day generation, is in 
truth but a revival of the industries 
of our forebears. — a necessitv, in the 



early times, when stores were few and 
machinery practically unknown, to-day 
a fad, beneficial in its teachings. 

]Most Xew England women have in- 
herited the deftness of finger of their 
colonial ancestors, and the organiza- 
tions of the twentieth centurv give 
them many 
thino;s to do 



interesting and beautiful 



The Old Apple-tree 

By Marjorie March 

Beneath the shady apple-tree I lay me down The little brook has sung its song these many 

awhile, cherished days, 

And hfe is naught but happiness and earth a And I have wandered many miles and searched 

sunlit smile, time's varied ways, 

As, patting down the tangled grass, I see a leaf- But find no surer place to rest, to dream life 

crossed sky, has no stain, 

And hear the laughter of the brook which Than'neath the old bent apple-tree in grand- 

softly ripples by, ma's orchard lane. 

And dream of days that used to be in childish Xow is Time very foolish ? or perchance it is 
times of old, all wise? 

When, storming round the ancient tree, we That Xature seems perfection in childhood's 
babes were warriors bold, happy eyes. 

And saved the lovely princess imprisoned high You stooping, gnarled old apple-tree, my play- 
above, thing of the past, 

That she might hve forever, in a cottage fenced I owe you shade, and gratitude for memories 
with love. that last. 




Pond Lillies from Kimball Pond, South Chatham, N.H. 



The Servant Question in Holland 



By Miriam Dexter 



HOLLAND is clean, and service 
is cheap, but the path of the 
housewife is not entirely with- 
out difficulties. The careless maid and 
the impertinent maid, the maid who 
breaks dishes, and the maid who leaves 
on half an hour's notice are not un- 
known, however diligent, faithful, and 
neat they may be as a class. "Privi- 
leges" are different from those in the 
United States. The Sunday dinner is 
never put in the middle of the day, 
and it is only after this meal, at five 
or half-past, that the maid is free for 
her "Sunday out," but she is at liberty 
to go to church at half -past nine in the 
morning, if she desires. Her weekly 
"afternoon out" is rather short, for 
in one-maid families she is expected 
to be at home in time to get dinner. 
On the other hand, most maids have a 
vacation of two weeks in summer, and 
they receive at Christmas a present 
equal to not less than a tenth of their 
yearly pay. Also they are allowed an 
unlimited amount of evening visiting 
and of friends in the kitchen. 

A young girl who can do plain work, 
and cooking and cleaning under direc- 
tion, can be had for forty to fifty dollars 
a year. A good second maid or "gen- 
eral" in a small family, who does not 
need to be taught by her mistress, ex- 
pects three florins ($1.20) a week. A 
good plain cook, who can order the 
meals and is willing to do a large amount 
of cleaning and general housework be- 
sides, can be had for eighty dollars a 
year, and for a hundred to a hundred 
and twenty-five dollars one gets a 
"cook-housekeeper" for a big estab- 
lishment, one who directs the other 
servants, supervises the linen, does the 
ordering, and attends to much of the 
practical work besides. There is a sys- 
tem of intelligence offices, but they are 
not very reliable, and advertising is 



more common than with us. Engage- 
ments are often made and "notice 
given" weeks or even months in ad- 
vance, so that one may see the follow- 
ing advertisement appearing in August : 

"23 Kaiserstraat. Mevrouw Van 
Loon will require, after November i, 
a cook, willing, also, to do some general 
housework." 

The maids look very neat in their 
black and white or blue and white 
dresses. Black dresses are rare even 
in families where several servants are 
kept. Caps, however, are always worn, 
immaculate affairs of plaited blond, 
and, as in France, these caps are con- 
sidered sufficient head covering for the 
street. Dutch maids are sent out on 
frequent errands, so much time is saved 
by their not having to make any change 
of costume. The aprons are large, and 
have a second pair of strings some inches 
below the waist. This arrangement 
keeps the apron snugly about the 
figure, and also affords a loop through 
which the girl pulls her skirts up out 
of the dust. 

Gas is delightfully cheap, and in the 
towns that simplifies the cooking, es- 
pecially where two of the meals of the 
day are light. Heating is a great prob- 
lem. Furnaces are well-nigh unknown. 
Gas and kerosene are used to some 
extent, and in the living-rooms are huge 
stoves burning coal or coke. The halls 
are left cold, and the bedrooms are but 
slightly warmed. 

In the summer there is no ice, and 
so no ice-chest is to be taken care of, 
but the food has to be kept down cellar, 
and that mean a great deal of running 
up and down stairs. However, in hot 
weather, — and it is never as hot as it is 
with us, — everything is bought in small 
quantities and used immediately. The 
Dutch kitchen has no store-closet, 
pantry, or cupboard for kettles. All 



lO 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the utensils are kept in plain sight, and 
the dry groceries, such as tea, coffee, 
rice, and sugar, are kept in the dining- 
room, under the eye, sometimes under 
the key, of the mistress. No bread is 
ever baked in the house, so there is no 
need of a flour barrel. At one side of 
the kitchen there are a few shelves with 
plates and serving dishes, and around 
the stove, above the sink, and all along 
the walls hang saucepans, spoons, 
kettles, pots, etc., all ready at hand, 
and all shining brightly. In every 
household there are a number of large 
copper utensils, and various small 
pieces, which add much to the ap- 
pearance of the kitchen and much to 
the work of the week. Silver is not 
seen often in the simpler houses. Brass 
and copper may be said to be the na- 
tional metals. Milk is carried about 
the streets in great cans that ghtter 
like gold in the sun. In every house 
there are candlesticks with elaborate 
snuffers and snuffer-trays, inkstands, 
coffee-pots, porringers, tea-kettles of 
all sizes, pails, basins, tongs for the 
tea-stove, turf pots, and coal-scuttles. 
No wonder that at least one afternoon 
a week must be devoted to keeping 
them up to the proper standard, which 
is that a pocket handkerchief rubbed 
hard against them will not show the 
slightest trace of soil. 

Besides the baking, the maid is en- 
tirely relieved from the washing. In 
all but the very poorest families the 
whole wash is sent every week to a big 
laundry. It is returned ironed or 
rough dry, as desired, generally the 
latter, as ironing is not consider ed^hard 
work. The straight pieces are put 
through the mangle. The maid does 
ordinary linen, and usually the daugh- 
ters of the family take charge of their 
own blouses and fine articles. The 
sorting, marking, and counting of the 
wash, when sent and when returned, 
is work that the housekeeper looks to 
herself, and she also helps to fold and 
prepare the linen for the mangle. 



The first duty of a servant in this 
very clean land is to scrub, and much 
time and many appliances are allowed 
for the purpose. The one maid in an 
average family has nothing to do for 
breakfast beyond boiling some water 
and setting the table. The mistress 
makes the tea, and, when the meal, 
which almost invariably consists of 
bread and butter with jam, honey, or 
"honey-cake," is over, she washes the 
silver and china on the table, while 
Keetje, or Gretje, is free to begin on 
the bedrooms, with no kitchen work 
to delay her and no cooking dishes to 
be washed. Doing the rooms is no 
small affair. About half an hour is al- 
lowed for each one, besides the hour or 
two of every morning when all Hol- 
land seems to resound with the beat- 
ing of rugs. The floors, bare or cov- 
ered with linoleum, are wiped and 
rubbed by the maid on her knees, the 
rugs are thoroughly cleaned, all the 
woodwork and the walls are gone over 
with cloths kept for the purpose, and 
the glass is dusted. The making of 
the bed is a less serious task. The care 
of the washstand is a fine art. For 
the bowl, pitcher, carafe, etc., the maid 
receives each week five spotless red 
and white plaid cloths, of different sizes 
and patterns, which she must keep 
separate and keep clean, and return at 
the end of the week, when they are 
sent to the laundry with the rest of 
the linen. The staircase is treated like 
the floors, and then Gretje dresses for 
the work of scrubbing the hall, the steps, 
arid the sidewalk by putting on her 
wooden shoes and tucking her skirts 
well up. She scatters fine white sand 
on the stone floor of the hall, and with 
a stiff brush works her way slowly 
along, inch by inch. The halls, never 
very large, are often paved with marble, 
and the effect of this, scrubbed to a 
dazzling whiteness, is really magnificent. 
She then attends to the steps and the 
sidewalk. One pailful of water after 
another is poured over the latter, and 



Sunshine and Shadow 



II 



the scrubbing-brush is replaced by a 
stiff broom. The efforts of the Holland 
housewives to keep their sidewalks 
clean are not always seconded by the 
Holland public. Most of the market- 
ing is done from dog-wagons at the 
front door (there is no back door in 
block houses), and vegetables, fruit, 
meat, and fish are weighed out on 
the very doorstep. Many a leaf, stalk, 
and fragment of decaying fruit mark 
the path of the wagons, besides the un- 
avoidable dirt of the wheels. 

The cleaning over, luncheon, or 
"coffee-drinking, " is to be considered. 
This is another simple meal of coffee 
(and Dutch coffee is delicious) or choc- 
olate, bread and butter, cold meat, or 
cheese, fruit, or jam. In some families 
there is one hot dish. After the meal 
the mistress may again wash the dishes 
or she may leave them to the maid. 
In either case they are well washed 
and well rinsed, and rubbed dry instead 
of being drained. 

Dutch ladies dislike cooking, and 
spend very little time in the kitchen. 
So the maid prepares the dinner, the 



chief meal of the day, with an occasional 
suggestion from her mistress. It usu- 
ally consists of soup, meat, two vege- 
tables, and a plain pudding or cake, 
and everything is well flavored. The 
maid serves it carefully and neatly and 
changes the plates, but no other table 
service is required of her. As a rule, 
she eats her dinner while the family 
are eating theirs, and then hastens to 
get her kitchen tidy again. An hour 
or so after dinner tea is served in the 
parlor, but for this she has only to 
boil the water and fill the milk pitcher. 
Of course, she has her own cup of tea 
at the same time. There are no people 
so fond of tea as the Dutch, and they 
drink it very strong. Sometimes a 
friend from a neighboring kitchen 
comes in to have it with her, and some- 
times she runs in next door for an hour 
or two. Or, if it is summer, she sits 
on her door-steps and looks at the 
garden. In winter she remains in the 
kitchen with her feet on her beloved 
little foot-stove, to keep them off the 
cold floor. There is nothing more to 
be done until to-morrow morning. 



Sunshine and Shadow 

By Kate Matson Post 



There are two cottages side by side 

In a village that I know, 
On their smooth green lawns long shadows lie, 

And yellow buttercups grow. 

Though the same dark nights and golden days 

Sadden and gladden each one. 
One seems to gather the passing gloom 

And one to bask in the sun. 



The other has windows opened wide 

For the sunshine and the air, 
Like a heart that's ever welcoming 

Whatever is bright and fair. 

For our hearts and homes are nmch alike. 
We may make them what we will. 

We may darken both with hate and gloom 
Or both with God's sunshine fill. 



For the door of one is always shut, 
And the curtains closely drawn; 

No one within cares that buttercups 
Besprinkle the smooth green lawn. 



Both rain and sunshine are close at hand, 
Both gloom- and gladness are near; 

But, when hearths are bright and hearts are 
kind, 
There's naught from the gloom to fear. 



The Valley de la Haute Gourmandise 

By Helen Campbell 



NEVER was valley more truly 
named, nor does it deny its 
other title, "La Vallee des 
Gourmands et Gourmets," for, though 
the two words are often used inter- 
changeably, the gourmand stands for a 
grosser feeder than the gourmet, who 
tastes delicately, and is epicure rather 
than glutton. It is a valley of the 
fairest in a land where all is fair, the 
high valley of Valromey in the moun- 
tains of Ain in France, every foot of it 
under highest cultivation. About the 
vineyards are bands of flax and hemp, 
but, for the most part, it is a vast or- 
chard of choicest fruits, cared for as 
thoroughly as any green-house, the gar- 
dens of small proprietors, planted with 
vegetables equally choice, being another 
feature in the landscape. Beyond are 
forests as well ordered, and green fields 
where sleek cattle graze, and provide 
the butter and cream that are as fa- 
mous as all the other products which 
the population dema.nd. 

It is here that Brillat-Savarin had 
his country home, bringing to his neigh- 
bors the final seal on their own satis- 
faction, since the greatest writer of 
France on culinary matters, author of 
the treatise on "The Physiology of 
Taste," had chosen to become one with 
them, and ate certain local yet famous 
dishes with unfailing zest and satis- 
faction. 

"He has eaten them, and now the 
world will know them," the old gour- 
mets said. "Ah! it is much to have 
dishes that are of national fame, and 
that will be even more so. Are there 
also dishes of fame, national dishes, in 
your America? We have not heard." 

The American to whom the question 
was put met the small, twinkling eyes 
of the old gourmet who waited reply. 
In all the dishes of America Brillat- 
Savarin in his travels there had found 



nothing worthy of minute record but 
the wild turkey on which he had dined 
in Virginia, and he had recorded of the 
singular country and its cuisine, "A 
hundred religions, and only one gravy ! " 

How, then, should the American speak 
of fish-balls or baked beans, the only 
national dishes which at the moment 
occurred to him? Succotash came to 
mind, but that had been borrowed from 
the Indians. Even pumpkin pie itself 
was evolved from the pumpkins which 
they also provided for the experimental 
Puritan matron who dared to produce 
the immortal com_bination. But there 
certainly were distinctive things that 
every American traveler abroad sighed 
for, witness Mark Twain and his list, in 
'A Tramp Abroad," of all the things 
he proposed to order when once more 
his wandering feet touched his native 
soil. Yet in the whole long list there 
was hardly one item really recognized 
as a legitimate part of a civiHzed menu. 
Gumbo, for instance, closely akin to 
the Italian minestra, or thick soup, is 
almost never seen outside its natural 
boundary, the Far South. 

"If one comes over here to eat bouil- 
lebaisse, and tries in vain to reproduce 
it at home, why should not these brag- 
garts come over to eat gumbo?" the 
American thought, as he shook his 
head mournfully ; for at this time there 
had been no bouillebaisse, the dish that 
Thackeray celebrates in his ballad : — 

"This Bouillebaisse a noble dish is, — 

A sort of soup or broth or brew, 
Or hotchpotch of all sorts of fishes, 

That Greenwich never could outdo. 
Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffron, 

Soles, onions, garUc, roach, and dace, 
All these you eat at Terre's tavern 

In that one dish of Bouillebaisse. 

"Indeed, a rich and savory stew 'tis; 
And true philosophers, methinks, 
Who love all sorts of natural beauties, 
Should love good victuals and good drinks. 



The Valley de la Haute Gourmandise 



13 



And Cordelier or Benedictine 

Might, gladly sure, his lot embrace, 

Nor find a fast-day too afflicting 

Which served him up a Bouillebaisse." 

The American sought to translate the 
ballad, but the old gourmet held up his 
hands in dismay. 

"For sailors, for people on the sea- 
board," he said, "but for us who have 
traditions, never! It is of a common- 
ness." 

It was now that there rose before the 
American, sitting silent on the stone 
bench under the great plane-tree by 
the fountain, a memory of last days 
on shipboard on the home voyage, 
each man with his declaration of what 
the first meal on shore should include; 
but neither on shipboard nor at any 
spot in America, where easy casual talk 
or narration goes on, could he recall the 
same sort of interest and enthusiasm 
that marks the Frenchman on his na- 
tive soil, above all in this singular little 
community, whose central point is the 
chateau of Brillat-Savarin rising among 
the trees almost at the entrance of the 
valley, its two little white towers and 
its slate roof visible from all points. 

Here was a httle world of advocates, 
magistrates, vine-growers, and owners 
of estates, where every ancient tradi- 
tion was perpetuated, and receipts for 
famous dishes were handed down from 
father to son, one alone sufficing to 
make the reputation of the table that 
offered it. 

"It is true," said the old gourmet. 
"There is probably nowhere else on 
earth where a whole people know so 
well what it is to truly breakfast, to 
dine, to sup." 

"But, my friend," the American said, 
''what do you take it that the rest of 
the world does?" 

"You nourish yourselves. That is 
different." 

"And when we drink?" 

"You quench a thirst or you excite 
yourselves, but drinking is quite an- 
other thing. That is a fine art: it re- 



quires self-possession, even meditation. 
Shall a glass of our vintages be tossed 
down the throat with a recklessness? 
Never. It is drop by drop as it were. 
So with a famous plat. One eats care- 
fully, with solemnity even, since here is 
the garnered, exquisite knowledge of 
generations. Do you know what our 
people said, when the question came of 
a raihoad to pass through our cherished 
valley? They said. No, no. We live 
well enough. We have abundance of 
everything and very cheaply. Why 
should a railroad disturb us, and carry 
to Paris, to disseminate through the 
whole of France, our trout, our par- 
tridges, our shrimps, and all the rest? 
No, no. We wish it not. But they did 
not listen, and behold it is as we knew." 
The old gourmet sighed. 
"To-day we have learned the cost of 
being forced to dispute in the Paris 
Halles a choice fish or a string of 
larks. However, we dine still in spite 
of politics, which also have crept in and 
spoil digestion. But in spite of this 
we dine still ! And each year the great- 
nephew of Brillat-Savarin, his heir, re- 
ceives at breakfast every friend, no in- 
vitation sent out. The bust of his 
ancestor presides over the repast: We 
drink the wine of which he was proud, 
and are served with the traditional pate, 
named from the beautiful Madame 
Aurore Recamier, 'the ear of the beau- 
tiful Aurore.' But there are other pates 
as famous. Think of one called 'the 
chapeau of Monseigneur Gabriel Cor- 
tois de Quinsey,' which is of game, 
and made by a rule that is sacredly 
secret. One never forgets, who once 
has tasted this delight, and there is 
also another, all of birds, 'the toque 
of the President Adolphe Clerc' Also 
there are other dishes. There is a cake 
of the white livers of capons bathed in 
a sauce of shrimps' tails; there is the 
jugged hare of Diana de Chateau- 
morand ; there are our truffles blanched 
a la crhme. There are many memories. 
Monsieur, I have seen gentlemen of 



14 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



distinction. I recall one in public office, 
who, crowned with roses a salmi of 
wonder, a salmi of woodcock. And 
there was another, a man of distinction, 
also. I nivself have seen him take on 
his plate a whole woodcock with a 
glass of burgundy, and cover his head 



with a white napkin, that not one deli- 
cious odor from wine or bird be lost. 
Those were gourmets, indeed ! For the 
rest of the world, there are dinners, it 
is true, but elegance of decoration hides 
incredible gastronomic errors. Is it not 
true also for America?" 



Emily Dickinson as Cook and Poetess 

By Helen Knight Wyman 



"If I can stop one heart from breaking, 

I shall not live in vain; 
If I can ease one life the aching, 

Or cool one pain, 
Or help one fainting robin 

Unto his nest again, 

I shall not live in vain." 

SO sang the Amherst recluse and 
poetess. We think of her as all 
soul and voice; but, as Mr. 
Higginson relates, at their first personal 
interview she said to him that "she 
made all their bread because her father 
liked only hers; then saying shyly, 
'And people must have pudding!' — 
this very timidly and suggestively, as 
if they were meteors or comets." 

In a favorite cookery-book belonging 
to my mother (an own aunt of Emily 
Dickinson) are many leaves added to 
the quaint pages of the original book, 
published in 1831. On these were 
copied, or pinned in, recipes given by 
relatives and friends, and proved and 
tried and found good. 

Among these are two from Amherst 
that I trust will prove interesting to 
readers of this magazine, proving that 
she was not altogether 

"A creature all too bright and good 
For human nature's daily food!" 

The following is for a corn-cake, 
being copied by my youngest aunt, 
but signed "Emily Dickinson." It is 
followed by another, given by a New 



York aunt, and the words are added, 
"Both are delicious." 

EmiivY Dickinson's Corn-cak]^. 

Wheat flour, two tablespoonfuls. 

Brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls. 

Cream (or melted butter), four tablespoonfuls. 

Salt. 

Eggs, one. 

Milk, one-half pint. 

Indian meal, to make a thick batter. 

On another page is a recipe for rice- 
cake as follows. Rice-cake was con- 
sidered our very best "company cake" 
in my childhood, being carefully placed 
in a large tin pail, and only used when 
outside persons came to tea. The rule 
was much richer than this, however, 
and it was baked in sheets, very thin, 
and cut into squares after coming 
from the oven. Mace (or nutmeg) was 
the spice always used in it. 

EmiIvY Dickinson's Rici^-cake:. 

One cup of ground rice. 

One cup of powdered sugar . 

Two eggs. 

One-half a cup of butter. 

One spoonful of milk with a very little soda 

Flavor to suit. 

Cousin Emily. 

In reading the published letters of 
Miss Dickinson, written to her brother 
when a law student at Harvard College, 
or those to intimate friends, we see 
that her tastes really took a domestic 
turn. Even though her mind might 



Emily Dickinson as Cook and Poetess 



15 



be occupied with ' ' all mysteries and all 
knowledge," including meteors and 
comets, her hands were often busy in 
most humble household ways. 

She was truly original, always some- 
what shy and retiring in disposition. 
This trait grew more and more con- 
spicuous, so that she gradually with- 
drew entirely from public gaze. For the 
last year or more of her life she remained 
secluded in her father's house, though 
heretofore her delight was to roam 
the old-fashioned garden. It was her 
main resource, next to her books and 
her own mystic thoughts. 

She loved flowers with passion, either 
wild or cultivated, as can be easily seen 
from her poems and published letters. 
Birds were her comrades, or, one might 
say, the pretty "models" who "posed" 
for her. The sky gave her exquisite 
pleasure, as well as the hills. She 
adored the tints of sunrise or sunset, 
and loved every varying mood of Nature. 

Books were to her loving friends. 
vShe once wrote Mr. Higginson (as he 
says in an article in the A tlantic Monthly 
of October, 1891), in speaking of her 
father, "He buys me many books, but 
begs me not to read them because he 
fears they joggle the mind!" He need not 
have feared, when her confessed favor- 
ites were: "for poets, Keats and Mr. 
and Mrs. Browning; for prose, Mr. 
Ruskin, Sir Thomas Browne, and the 
Revelations." After recovering the use 
of her eyes, which had been delicate, she 
writes that "she read Shakespere, and 
thought to herself, 'Why is any other 
book necessary ?' " 

It was a frequent custom of hers to 
send thanks, for any little favor or atten- 
tion received, in the form of a tiny poem. 

Two such I have always cherished; 
that were sent to my mother while she 
was receiving treatment for her eyes 
from a Boston oculist. 

I am unable to recall my seeing her 
at that time, although as a little girl 
I do remember her on various visits to 
Amherst. She was a good many years 



older, — a young lady when I was a 
mere child. But I recall the soft, 
"tawny" hair (somewhat like the soft 
ears of an Irish setter dog), as it was 
dressed similarly to that of Mrs. Brown- 
ing in the pictures we often see of that 
famous woman. One of her pets was 
a dog named Carlo, of whom she writes 
Mr. Higginson: "I think Carlo would 
please you. He is dumb and brave." 
She complains that men and women 
"talk of hallowed things, aloud, and 
embarrass my dog !" 

In the front of my old house grew 
an immense wistaria, with its fragrant, 
purple clusters. Some of these my 
mother sent to my cousin, and this was 
her acknowledgment, written in her 
quaint handwriting : — 

"The beautiful flowers embarrass me, 
They make me regret I am not a Bee!" 

And at another time, for some favor, 
this little poem (never before published) 
was the sweet response : — 

"The Robin, for the crumbs, 
Returns no syllable; 
But long records the Lady's name 
In silver chronicle ! ' ' 

Her poems abound in sweetest verses 
about the birds. It seems as if she 
felt a kinship with them, so frail and 
"elusive," sprite-like almost was she, 
her soul ever poised for flight into a 
world less material than this. 

In reading them, I am impressed with 
her real genius, her genuine originality 
of conception and expression. And, 
in again perusing her letters collected 
by her friends, Mr. Higginson and Mrs. 
Mabel Loomis Todd, I sighed that I 
never had opportunity to gain access 
to that shy and beautiful soul. Her 
friends were few and choice, and we were 
parted, both by years and space, from 
each other. 

But Over Yonder, "where we shall 
see as we are seen and know as we are 
known," there will be time for many 
things ! 



Social Bribes 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



THOUGH polite society and 
worthy people alike rebel at 
the thought of accepting Liibes, 
yet both, more or less unconsciously, 
help along such practice under its eu- 
phonious names. In public life we call 
bribes graft, in private intercourse they 
go by the business term of fees, and 
in home life they have the pleasanter 
name of rewards. But they all spring 
from the same source, — the allowing of 
special privileges by the grantor to the 
grantee, who wants to get there first. 
Instead of entering upon the work of 
trpng at once to reform public life, in 
which we of course begin with the no- 
tion that others are at fault rather than 
ourselves, would it not be as well to 
start with reforming ourselves as pa- 
rents? Our children bother us, and, 
to keep them still, we bribe them with 
candies or pennies. The bribes, small 
when children are little, grow big as 
they find it pays to make larger de- 
mands upon us, to insure their obedi- 
ence. So the germ of graft has been 
started, which in later life may reach 
full development, while the immediate 
harm lies in the weakening of the child's 
will power to do what is right just be- 
cause it is right. Not that any parent 
wants to overwhelm his little girl with 
weary maxims about the eternal 
ought. Yet, because he need never 
allude to them is no reason why he 
should overlay a child's dawning sense 
of right with the idea that he is never 
going to do anything he does not want 
to do unless he is paid for so doing. 

Because we will neither give bribes 
nor delude ourselves with the fancy 
that, when given, they were offered 
merely as rewards, it does not follow 
that we cannot give presents most of 
the time, only we will not do so just 
after our big boy or girl has been es- 
pecially good, lest it be considered as 



a reward. Giving to one's children, 
even if they take it for granted we ought 
to do so, is such a pleasure that it is 
a pity to instil the idea of a kind of un- 
spoken moral bargain into the free-will 
gift of love. 

Yet it well may be asked if these 
nursery bribes and adult rewards do 
not pave the way for fees. In England, 
this year, there has been much discus- 
sion concerning them, not fees alone, 
but discounts, blank invoices, secret 
commissions, considerations. From the 
secrecy involved concerning these 
various forms of bribes, wrong-doing 
is inferred. Hence the English "Pre- 
vention of Corruption Bill." Though 
it is safer, it is less exciting to hear of 
other wrong-doings than those of our 
own countrymen, so that we still may 
congratulate ourselves that, however 
bad things are "down town," house- 
keepers up town, in this country, are 
not approached with offers for "con- 
siderations" in their marketing, or that, 
if they are, such offers usually are in- 
dignantly refused. 

What bothers housekeepers is the un- 
certain basis of fees or no fees in pri- 
vate houses. Some hostesses expect 
them to be given, others do not. Some 
guests give a big fee for a trifling ser- 
vice rendered or a short visit made. 
Others expect much attendance upon 
themselves, stay a long time, and give 
nothing. The second visit of such a 
guest is often a household disaster. 
Because of fees, it is a current remark 
that it costs more to visit than to go 
to a respectable but not fashionable 
hotel. Perhaps no more embarrassing 
question is ever put to a hostess than 
when a kind guest, who always wants 
to do the right thing, but seldom 
succeeds, asks her whether or not she 
shall fee her maids. On the other 
hand, the kindly tact of some guests 



Social Bribes 



17 



leads them to send Christmas gifts to 
those who have waited upon them 
during their visit. Though there never 
can be any stringent legislation about 
the granting or abolishing of fees, 
guests, at least, can remember that they 
have no right to exact that for which 
they return no equivalent, not even 
that of good manners. 

As for tips at restaurants and on 
sleeping cars, it has become a matter 
of self-protection to pay them, and in 
those cases where wages are openly 
low, because employers expect their 
employees to be feed, it is but fair "to 
give them a lift." Yet one may be 
pardoned for his annoyance, if he sees 
his neighbor, who has put out a dollar 
bill, better served than himself, who 
gave but a quarter. This having to do 
a little more than one can afford, in 
order to get something, is the aggrava- 
tion about fees. Yet we do not want 
to cheat the railroad porter. 

Far more difficult to adjust than the 
matter of fees, and more difficult to 
withstand than the bribe of the secret 
commission, is the bribe of social polite- 
ness. You are invited to lunch or 
dinner. You know it was for a pur- 
pose, and yet it is not poUte to assume 
that you are not valued for your own 
sake alone. The giving of dinners and 
luncheons, the sending of flowers and 
bon-bons, are often just ways of getting 
round people so as to get something 
out of them. Still, one cannot resent 
what apparently is offered in cordial 
good will, lest she be mistaken, though 
she learns to beware of accepting it. 

Of course, we all are doing something 
for others and expecting them to do 
for us. That is the equitable tit for 
tat of ordinary social life. When done 
with sincerity and grace, it has the cour- 
tesy of well-bred social life. But, if by 
circuitous methods we bring into this 
exchange the insidiousness of spoken 
bargaining or of silent expectation of 



getting much for little, we take the 
heart out of social intercourse. 

Sometimes we hear that flattery is 
bribery, but it hardly ever is objective 
enough to be so considered. For gen- 
uine praise, genuinely given, never 
hurts any one : and, though injudicious 
praise may make us conceited or lazy, 
it, yet, is not a bargain, unless a mutual 
admiration society is formed. And, if 
it is, it is soon dissolved. The essence 
of bribery is the bargain involved, not 
as a square deal, but as a roundabout 
way of getting what we want, the one 
who gives being as much injured as the 
one who accepts. 

The following brief anecdotes show 
the pathway in which bribery travels 
unrecognized. A busy mother bribed 
her child with pennies each time it 
hindered her in her housework. At first 
a cent sufficed. That soon became a 
five or ten cent piece, and then a 
quarter, until the mother rebelled. It 
was too late. The child had had his 
own way too long, and long home misery 
resulted. Another mother gave her 
daughter a brooch for her good conduct. 
When, after several months, a second 
present had not followed, the girl asked 
if she had not been as good as before. 
"Yes, indeed," replied her mother. 
"Then why haven't you given me 
something?" was demanded. A lady 
was invited to lunch, and accepted. 
When some time after she declined to 
do something, debatable, in philan- 
thropic work desired by her hostess, 
she was reminded that she had partaken 
of her hospitality. 

Because bribery has assumed various 
forms, ever since Jacob's and Esau's 
unequal division of birthright and 
pottage, is all the more reason why we 
should resist its present inroads into 
simplicity of motive, and that our home 
life, as well as our public work of every 
kind, should be protected from its 
harmfulness. 



The Art of Packin 

How to have a Comfortable Holiday 

By Katherine Hamilton Hough 



TO pack well is an art few 
women possess. The time is 
fast approaching when one's 
thoughts turn to the summer holiday 
outing, and any skill in the packing line 
is doubly appreciated at this psycho- 
logical moment. In order to feel happy 
on a holiday, one must be well dressed, 
and the way clothes are put into the 
trunk has much to do with bringing 
about this happy estate. One woman 
will pack twice as much in the same- 
sized trunk as her sister who does not 
understand the art, and her clothes, 
too, will "arrive" in better condition. 
In fact, it is the trunk that is most 
closely packed that has the best chance 
of reaching its destination in apple-pie 
order. For the corners are well filled, 
and there is no shaking about of articles, 
once the cover is down. 

From experience I have found that 
it is a good plan to commence a week 
or so before a journey to jot down the 
articles that will be useful on the trip. 
Memory on the day of packing is apt 
to play traitor. A list of this kind will 
be found of immense assistance, when 
the real work begins. When you get 
up in the morning, ask yourself what is 
the first thing needed for the toilet 
and so on, perform the imaginary 
functions through the day, and so avoid 
the stupid little slips of memory that 
necessitate the starting out on a shop- 
ping expedition as soon as holiday town 
is reached. 

A great deal of the fatigue of packing, 
with many a backache, is spared if the 
trunk is raised a foot or so from the 
floor on a firm foundation. Another 
hint to the uninitiated is to collect the 
articles to be taken, and lay them on 
the chairs, etc., of your bedroom. In 
this way you can cast your eye over 



them, and decide which is best to 
lay at the bottom of the trunk. This 
simple scheme will avoid a lot of chang- 
ing of plans, and racking of brains at 
the last moment. Every one will say, 
"Of course, heavy things go in the 
bottom of the trunk," but at the same 
time they will throw a forgotten book 
on top of blouses, and then wonder 
why clothes are so unmercifully crushed 
on being unpacked. It is not the 
weight of the book that does the mis- 
chief, but, being heavy, it slides about 
on the lighter clothing, and crushes it. 
All corners of the trunk must be filled, 
if only with soft paper. 

Apropos of blouses, there are envel- 
opes made of muslin, eighteen by 
twenty- two inches, into which the best 
lingerie is slipped, together with its 
accompanying belt, stock, and pins. 
And a good way to keep dresses 
smooth is to fasten four rows of hook 
eyes in the inner side of the trunk, four 
inches apart, and draw a tape taut 
through the eyes. When a dress is 
folded and placed in the trunk, pin it 
to the tape with safety-pins. Use 
plenty of tissue paper between the 
gowns and their adornments, and, 
where the material is light and perish- 
able, put extra pieces in the folds. 
Stuff out the sleeves of bodices, and 
baste tissue paper around the collars 
and cuffs, where laces and embroideries 
are used as a trimming. 

In placing waists in the trunk, they 
should be arranged in alternate ways, 
one waist to another's neckband. 

Happy is the woman who has a trunk 
long enough to admit of placing skirts 
at full length, for a skirt can bear much 
folding from side to side, though but 
little from top to bottom. In fact, 
the less folding that is done, the better. 



The Art of Packing 



19 



Never turn a skirt wrong side out. 
The daintier the material, the more 
surely will it lose its freshness. Be- 
tween heavy coats and wraps put 
thicker tissue paper, that of the brown 
variety. 

When a hat trunk is not in one's 
possession, be careful to fasten securely 
the chapeau in the position in which 
it is to travel. Long millinery pins are 
best for this purpose, stuck through 
the brim of the hat to the bottom of 
the tray. The hat crown should be 
stuffed with tissue paper, and covered 
with a veil of the paper. Long feathers 
should be detached from the hat, rolled 
in soft silk, and twisted about the shape. 
Boots and shoes are slipped into bags, 
or rolled separately in paper, and laid 
at the bottom of the trunk, stockings 
and other substantial little odds and 
ends fitted in the interstices. 

A large, convenient tray is like a 
trolley car. No matter how crowded 
there is always room for one more. It 
will hold your hats, fans, gloves, hand- 
kerchiefs, everything but gowns and 
lingerie that should have plenty of 
room beneath. 

Most women are called upon to fold 
the wearing apparel of their big brothers 
or husbands, and the service is often 
conducive of coldness between the two, 
at the end of the journey. It is most 
difficult to fold trousers so that the 
creases shall be only those put in by 
the tailor. But by placing together 
the two brace buttons the crease will 
fall in the right lines. It is well to 
grasp the trousers by the lower edges, 
and let them fall at full length in the 
original creases. They can then be 
doubled once across without the slight- 
est injury. For folding the coat the 
principal thing to remember is that 
the sleeves should be pulled out slightly 
at the shoulder. The coat is then laid 
in three folds, the back falling between 
the two front breadths, and the second 
fold put in at the waist. 



A safe way to pack small quantities 
of medicine or toilet articles is to put 
them in tiny bottles enclosed in old 
glove fingers, and tie them on. Then 
pack all the bottles in a tin pail without 
a handle, put the top on tightly, and 
bury among the clothing. If bottles 
are carried in the usual way, rubber 
stoppers will be found less likely to 
work out of place than those made of 
cork. When the stopper is well in the 
bottle, give it a twist all the way around, 
and it will not come out till one twists 
it back again. 

Here is a scheme devised by a woman 
who spends much of her time on ocean 
steamers. She finds it much easier to 
carry a suit-case and a telescope bag, 
and to dispense with the steamer trunk. 
Shore clothes are put into the suit- 
case, and the telescope is separated, 
and the two parts placed under the 
berth to act as drawers. In one side 
the deck clothes are kept, and in the 
other half night clothes by day and 
day ones by night. In this telescope 
stocks and collars may also be stowed. 
She also hangs her shore hat in a roomy 
bag, and suspends it from the ceiling. 
Toilet articles are most gettable when 
kept in a pocket on the wall. 

The golf girl has a nice little trunk 
designed for her special needs, which 
is quite as convenient for the girl or 
man who is a favorite week-end guest. 
In size it resembles a steamer trunk, 
A compartment is arranged for golf bag 
and sticks; and sections with sliding 
partitions hold shirt-waists and hats. 
In the lid is a long space devoted to the 
packing of skirts. 

For some years it has been consid- 
ered smart and traveled to have one's 
trunk and suit-case and bag plastered 
over with foreign and domestic express 
and hotel labels and stamps. Now 
fashion has changed, and it is thought 
snobbish to display in this poster 
style one's "little journeys in the 
world." 



Royal Motherhood 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



ROYAL mothers are often more 
dutiful than some other aspi- 
rants to high positions. True 
womanhood graces many exalted places. 
A Httle story came to the writer from 
a Danish lady's maid. Once in the 
employ of a countess in Denmark, 
she lived opposite the royal palace in 
Copenhagen, and frequently attended 
her mistress on informal visits to the 
late Queen of Denmark, when often 
much time was given to fine music, 
duets, and social chat over afternoon 
tea. The family life was as simple, re- 
fined, and affectionate as could be 
imagined. The children, who came to 
visit the good queen, we know as the 
dowager empress of all the Russias, 
the lovely Queen Alexandra of Great 
Britain, King George of Greece, and 
Princess Thyra. Once they were all 
there, and also Prince Waldemar's fam- 
ily. One night the chief caretaker of 
the children of Prince and Princess 
Waldemar was taken ill. After seeing 
that she was made comfortable for the 
night, the princess did not leave her 
to the care of others. Early the next 
morning Princess Waldemar stepped 
into her room, and, finding her still 
asleep and the room cold, returned to 
her own room quietly, and brought back 
an armful of wood for the fireplace. 
The noise of the kindling fire awakened 
the nurse, who beheld in astonishment 
the princess, daughter of the old royal 
house of France, hard at work over the 
fire. She was very much touched by this 
kindness, and related it to her friends, 
the employees of the castle, among 
whom was the lady's maid who brought 
the story to this side of the Atlantic. 
It reminds one of the sweet tenderness 
of Saint Elizabeth of Hungary, who 
used to creep out from her castle with 
food for the hungry, in spite of her 
husband's remonstrances. One day, 



so the story goes, when he detected her 
and snatched her apron filled with 
bread, the loaves miraculously turned 
to roses and lilies. 

"That best portion of a good man's life, 
His little, nameless, unremembered acts 
Of kindness and of love." 

This Danish maid thought it strange 
that rough women and girls were chosen 
or taken from necessity as nurses for 
children. In Denmark, she said, nurses 
come from the educated, well-to-do 
middle class, and they are respected 
and suitably treated. 

We have all read of Queen Victoria's 
care for her children and the respect 
they were taught for their governesses. 
There is a school in England, where 
women of good birth, as daughters of 
army officers, are fitted to become in- 
structors to royalty and the nobility. 
Besides having a good education, they 
must be able to teach deportment, 
erect and graceful carriage, and the 
necessary etiquette for all formal oc- 
casions. These ladies are in demand 
in all parts of Europe. The new Crown 
Princess of Germany, Cecilie, had such 
an English governess. The czar sent 
for one to take charge of a young 
Georgian princess, really a political 
prisoner, although surrounded by CA^ery 
luxury, in St. Petersburg. Until she 
married, this English lady had the en- 
tire charge of her. This governess, 
now in the United States, bewails the 
snobbery and show of many American 
families of large wealth. The constant 
thought of elaborate dress, rather than 
of fine arts and literature and gen- 
eral culture, the hurry and struggle for 
place and precedence, is noticeable, 
she says, also how even little children 
take seats away from older people at 
public resorts and clamor at public 
tables. The fault is in the training 



The Delayed Bloom 



21 



of the little folk, who know no better, 
and it reflects upo.n the grasping spirit 
of the country. 

A recent lecturer, speaking of Italian 
gardens and describing the magnificent, 
solemn arches of ilex, tapestried with 
cHmbing roses, to be seen in the Quirinal 
gardens at Rome, said that one comes 
upon rows of little mud piles, gayly or- 
namented with chicken feathers and 
set to bake in the sun, on the great 
stone seats mossy with age. Just plain 
little mud pies, but made by the dimpled 
hands of sensible Queen Elena's little 
folk. Queen Elena, like the empress 
of Germany, is a devoted mother, busy 
in rearing a happy, healthy flock of 
girls and boys. Little has been pub- 
lished about the girlhood of the fair 
Empress Augusta; but Queen Elena, 
a Montenegrin princess, with her sisters, 
ran wild in the forests, hunting and 
fishing like boys, swimming like mer- 
maids, and riding wild ponies, until in 
their teens, when they were packed off 
to fine schools far away from the little 
mountain principality over which their 
father reigns. 

Being domestic does not mean being 
a stupid drudge. When Mrs. Enid 



Stacy Widrington was lecturing in this 
country, she said enlightened women 
should have no quarrel with the word 
"domestic," as a desirable adjective. 
Taken in its narrowest sense, it may 
seem unpleasant; but, if a woman is 
truly domestic, she will widen the appli- 
cation of the word, until it will mean 
all that her heart can hold or her brain 
plan or her hands execute for those 
dear to her. She will know what a 
home should be, and how a house 
should be built for health, beauty, and 
economy, and what community or 
neighborhood is best, what schools and 
neighbors they will have, how to reg- 
ulate the income and apportion it 
properly, how to make the home a 
spot ever to be remembered when she 
is gone. And for those who do not 
love children the words of an American 
mother may bring a lesson: "Suppose 
your children are not all that you hoped 
or dreamed. They are yours; and, if 
they do not meet your expectations 
or fill your heart to overflowing with 
happiness, at least, if your duty be 
done toward them, it will so occupy 
your time that you will have no 
thoughts of regret and self-pity." 



The Delayed Bloom 

By Cora A. Matson Dolson 

One spring I set a blue wistaria vine, 

Close to my home, where it might climb and twine 

Upward, to reach the window of my room, 

And there to cheer me with its azure bloom. 

Each year I watched for buds, but none were there ; 

Until, at length, I deemed our Northern air 

As ahen to the place where once it grew, 

And prized it merely for the shade it threw. 

But, when its years had grown to perfect seven, 

Across my window, blue as depths of heaven, 

Its clustered buds and blossoms swayed and swung, 

The tossing vines and guarding leaves among. 

My dear wistaria! Doubly dear to me 

Because its flowers I had not hoped to see. 

And so, sometimes, I deem a thought has grown, 

Prized, by two hearts, as Friendship's growth alone. 

When suddenly it bursts its bonds above, 

And, glorified, flames forth to perfect Love! 



22 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A TEAR. 

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Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 



PROMISES. 

Beneath the cold gray skies of March 
The song- sparrow trilled his cheerful lay, 
A crocus blooming in the grass 
Gave promise bright of coming May. 

One April day a bluebird came, 

A vision of azure scudding by, 

'Neath pale gray clouds that hung below 

The deeper azure of the sky. 

The dandelions came in May, 

The brown thrush piped his cheeriest tune. 

All sound and color blent to make 

A pathway fit for royal June. 

And, when the queen came to her own, 
Rare roses blossomed beneath her feet. 
The lavish sun flung gold galore, 
And all earth rang with bird-notes sweet. 



So life is full of promises. 
Faint touches of beauty here and there, 
Brief strains of music, incomplete. 
Echoing songs of sweetness rare. 

Just urging on our faltering faith 
With glimpses of brightness by the way. 
O'er rough and unfamiliar paths 
That lead us to -God's perfect day. 

— Kate Matson Post. 



SCIENCE AND TRUTH 

SCIBNCB and truth are one. 
For what is science save the 
knowledge of nature's laws, the 
facts of the universe? The lover of 
nature and nature's laws is likewise 
the lover of truth.- Why ever the 
tendency among men to oppose the 
acceptance of new truth, to sneer at 
the revelations of science? Unless a 
scientific law or formula be true, it is 
sure to fail and become obsolete. 
Truth only lives. 

"Truth crushed to earth shall rise again: 
The eternal years of God are hers; 
But Error, wounded, writhes with pain, 
And dies among his worshippers." 

The desire for larger truth, wider 
acquaintance with the laws that gov- 
ern the universe, is human. Already 
science has done much for the welfare 
of man. She is destined, perchance, 
to do even more. In household af- 
fairs, especially, the application of 
scientific discovery and invention has 
been of infinite worth. The difference 
between the habitation of the cliff- 
dweller and the modern home, warmed 
by hot water and lighted by elec- 
tricity, is wide, indeed. It is an 
index of the progress of the race thus 
far. 

In every branch of research and 
pursuit of life the scientific spirit is 
the true method of procedure. Hy- 
pothetical truth, if there be any such 
thing, must ever give way to fact and 
law. This is the teaching of history 
and experience. A theory is of no 
good unless it be universally work- 



Editorials 



23 



able. Even our faith is subjected 
to the processes of reasoning and the 
understanding. In speaking of the 
unquestioning faith of childhood, the 
editor of the Outlook says: "The faith 
of manhood is of a different sort. It 
is not an unquestioning, but a ques- 
tioned faith. It is not founded on 
reason; but it dares submit itself to 
all the tests to which reason can sub- 
ject it. The crucible never yet cre- 
ated gold, but it tries the gold and 
rejects the dross. Reason never yet 
created faith, but it separates the 
true from the false. After the cru- 
cible appears but little gold, but it is 
pure. After the reason there appears 
a shorter creed, but it is vital. Cre- 
dulity has done the world more harm 
than scepticism. The only way to 
know anything is to dare to question 
everything." 

Above all things, men are fond of 
liberty. They desire to be free, — 
free to live in harmony with the laws 
of nature; that is, in accordance with 
the divine will. "He is the free man 
whom the truth makes free." 



HOME SANITATION 

IN no other respect is the aver- 
age country home more open to 
adverse criticism than in that of 
its sanitary condition. In city and 
large town, drainage and sewage are 
under control of public officials, and 
in certain fashion all are served alike. 
But in the country these important 
items become a matter of individual 
concern; and, sad to say, in too many 
cases the drainage is entirely ignored, 
while the sink drain is left on the sur- 
face of the ground, — a constant source 
of menace to the health and comfort 
of every member of the household. 
But it has always been so, the in- 
mates may say, and we have lived 
to good old age. This may be true. 
At the same time it does not seem to 
have occurred to them how many 



cases of illness might have been avoided 
or how much better health they might 
have enjoyed, had the sanitary condi- 
tions of their home been more favora- 
ble. 

Nature does much in way of en- 
vironment for the country home, the 
inland dweller. Can the recipient of 
these favors do less than abstain from 
polluting the earth, and give nature 
a fair chance? As to whatever else 
one may do in way of cultivation and 
improvement, he may rest assured 
nature will respond, "good measure, 
pressed down, and shaken together, 
and running over"; and, besides, to 
him who really is fond of this grand 
old earth, any defacement or defile- 
ment thereof is not only offensive, 
but positively painful. At any rate, 
in these days of hygienic living the 
sanitary condition, as to the entire 
environment of the home, even in 
minutest detail, must be sedulously 
attended to. 

STRENGTH AND HEALTH 

TO be well, must one be strong 
physically ? This is the dictum 
of G. E. Flint, whose specialty 
is the development of power and the 
maintenance of health through progres- 
sive exercise. He admits that some 
strong men are not healthy, but says 
that their ill-health is always due to the 
weakness of some part. "They are 
not entirely strong." But the con- 
verse is equally true : some healthy 
persons are not strong. Professional 
men and statesmen, of slender phys- 
ique, whom many school-boys could 
excel in any feat of physical strength 
or endurance, have lived and worked, 
with scarcely a day's sickness, to a 
ripe old age. It may be said that 
strength is not merely a matter of 
muscles, but that any organ is strong 
which will do perfectly the work put 
upon it, but this is not the ordinary 
understanding of strength. 



24 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



However, this writer makes out a 
good case for the superiority of gen- 
eral exercise, like running or walking, 
or of hard w-ork that brings all the 
muscles and organs into play, over 
such gymnasium w^ork as is calcu- 
lated to develop particular muscles 
only. Dumb-bell work, for example, 
to one accustomed to it, does not 
cause the heart to beat or the lungs 
to expand, nor compel all the muscles 
and organs of the body to co-operate 
in activity, as does wrrestling, boxing, 
or running. That such exercise con- 
duces to brain power, he argues in 
this w^a}^: "Setting the advantages 
of physical evolution aside, so long 
as the brain needs food for its develop- 
ment, and the food to be digested needs 
a good stomach, and the stomach, to 
remain good, needs proper exercises 
of the muscles, so long will the culti- 
vation of physical strength be neces- 
sary for mental evolution." The no- 
tion that hard general work, resulting 
in full muscular development, saps 
vitality, weakens the organs, and is 
a wearying incubus to the individual, 
is dismissed as so illogical as hardly 
to deserve an answer. But those 
who believe it are admonished to 
"pity the wild animals that, guided 
only by an instinctive physiological 
need, run, jump, pursue and wrestle 
with one another, thereby using and 
developing fully their whole bodies. 
Strange it is that they are singularly 
free from disease, while man, who 
knows better than to do those things, 
is the most disease-ridden creature 
in existence." — Boston Herald. 



We shall soon enlarge the concep- 
tion of religion till we shall not use the 
term at all in a special or restricted 
sense. We shall see that all lovers 
of truth are lovers of God. When one 
pauses to look at it, what utter selfish- 
ness or selfism lies at the bottom of 
the old creeds, — the one thought of 
a man to secure his personal safety 



from some impending danger! The 
soldier w^ho is determined to come out 
of the battle with a whole skin is not 
the ideal soldier. The man of science, 
the truth lover, how much more worthy 
his self-forgetfulness, his renuncia- 
tion, which has in view no personal 
end whatever! The new birth of sci- 
ence, — the dropping of all worldly and 
secondary ends, the absolute devotion 
to the truth for its own sake, — is there 
anything more truly religious than 
this ? — John Burroughs, 



"The home is a tryst, — the place 
where we retire and shut the world 
out. Lovers make a home just as 
birds make a nest; and, unless a man 
knows the spell of the divine passion, 
I can hardly see how he can have a 
home at all. He only rents a room." 



Health is a boon we value most 
When nearly giving up the ghost. 
'Tis only when we feel we're sinkrng, 
We're satisfied to do some thinking 
Of how we should ourselves behave 
In order best ourselves to save 
From neurasthenia's dire perdition, 
Abysses deep, where no contrition 
Can rescue from the pangs and woes 
Of gout and rheumatismal throes. 
Turn, sinner, while 'tis called to-day, 
Turn quickly from your sins away, 
And follow Nature's laws so true; 
There's joyous health in store for you. 
Come, turn your steps toward Nature's 

ways, 
And comfort find, and length of days. 

K., — in Good Health. 



"Ideas grow senile and slumber and 
sleep, and die and lie in their graves for 
Ages, and come again in the garb of 
Youth to slaughter and slay — and in- 
spire and liberate. And this death and 
resurrection goes on Forever. In Time 
there is nothing new nor old. ' ' 



Small kindnesses, small courtesies, 
small considerations, habitually prac- 
tised in our social intercourse, give a 
greater charm to the character than 
the display of great talents and accom- 
plishments . — Kelty. 




Kaiser Semmeln, before and after Baking 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. 
A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Broiled Scrod 

Dress a plump cod or haddock for 
broiling (so that it may lie flat upon 
the broiler). Put flesh side up in a 
pan, sprinkle generously with salt, 
then cover with cold water. In the 
morning drain, dry on a cloth, and broil 
in a well-oiled broiler over a clear fire. 
Spread with anchovy sauce, and serve 
at once. 

Anchovy Sauce for Broiled Scrod 
Pound the flesh of four anchovies, 
prescribed in oil, and one-third a cup of 
butter in a mortar. Then press the 
mixture through a fine sieve. Melt one 
level tablespoonful of butter, and in it 
cook a level tablespoonful of flour and 
a few grains, each, of salt and pepper. 
Stir in half a cup of milk or white broth 
until the mixture thickens, then beat in 
the anchovy butter and a tablespoonful 
of lemon juice or vinegar. 



Boiled Salmon 
Take a middle cut of salmon, weighing 
about three pounds. Wash thoroughly, 
then lower into a kettle partly filled 
with lukewarm water. Add a table- 
spoonful of salt and three or four table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Cover, and let 
heat to the boihng-point. Then let 
simmer nearly half an hour. Drain 
carefully, and set on a platter. Pour 
over a cup of white sauce, to which a 
few capers and three tablespoonfuls of 
butter have been added. vSprinkle the 
top of the fish with more capers. Set 
boiled halves of potatoes at the ends of 
the dish, and serve at once. 

Boiled Salmon with Fish Forcemeat 
Select a piece of salmon just 
below those with central opening. 
A piece weighing about three pounds 
will serve twelve or more (any boiled 
salmon left over is good as salad, 



26 



The Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



creamed, curried, and in croquettes or 
cakes). Remove the skin from one 
side of the fish, and set the other, skin 




Boiled Salmon, Caper Sauce 

side down, in the dish for cooking. 
With a silver knife spread the side from 
which the skin was taken with a thick 
layer of fish forcemeat. This may be 
made of salmon, halibut, or bass. For 
a more ornamental dish the forcemeat 
may be spread very Hghtly over the 
surface, and then the rest put in place 
with pastry bag and tube. Ornament 
the forcemeat with figures cut from 
slices of trufile. Set a very thin bit of 
fat salt pork over each piece of truffle. 
Put the fish into a saucepan, add a pint 




Salmon boiled with Fish Forcemeat 

of white wine or veal broth and half a 
pint of water. Cover, heat to the 
boiling-point, then simmer about forty 



minutes. Drain, and set on a platter. 
Surround with a dozen fresh mushroom 
caps, peeled, and simmered in veal broth 
fifteen minutes. 
Pour a little Joinville 
sauce over the mush- 
rooms, and serve at 
once. 

Joinville Sauce 
Melt three table- 
spoonfuls of butter. 
Cook in this three 
tablespoonfuls of 
flour, and add one 
cup of rich veal broth, 
flavored with vege- 
tables, and herbs, and 
one pint of the liquid in which the fish 
was cooked. Let boil vigorously. Then 
simmer ten minutes. Finish with the 
beaten yolks of three eggs, mixed into 
three tablespoonfuls of creamed butter, 
a tablespoonful of lemon juice, half a 
teaspoonful of paprika, and (if at hand) 
enough lobster coral to give a reddish 
tint to the sauce. 

Fish Forcemeat for Salmon 

For a piece of fish of the size given 
above purchase about a pound of fish. 
Remove the skin and bones, 
and scrape the fish from the 
fibres. This will yield be- 
tween half and three-fourths 
a pound of pulp. Pound this 
in a mortar. Add the whites 
of two eggs, one-fourth a cup 
of butter, half a cup of pan- 
ada (bread crumb cooked in 
milk to a paste), half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and a dash of 
paprika, and mix and pound 
to a smooth paste. Press this 
through a sieve, and fold in a 
scant cup of double cream, 
beaten solid. Poach a little 
of the forcemeat. If it be 
too soft, add the white of another egg, 
and, if tough, add more cream. Season 
more highly, if desired. 



Seasonable Recipes 



27 



Hot Boiled Tongue for Game 

Course 

Cover a pickled or pickled-and-smoked 
beef tongue with cold 
water, and heat to the 
boiling-point, then let 
simmer until tender. It 
will take three or four 
hours. Remove from the 
kettle, and free from the 
skin, then cut in slices. 
Dispose these on a plat- 
ter, and pour over them 
a thick, hot, brown sauce, 
to a pint of which one- 
fourth a cup of claret and port wine 
and two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly 
are added. Set a candied cherry 
softened in boiling water on each slice 
of tongue, and serve at once with 
orange salad. 

Orange Salad for Hot Boiled 
Tongue 

Remove the peel from the oranges, 
slice the pulp lengthwise of the fruit, 
and sprinkle it lightly with salt and 
paprika, then for a pint of fruit use 
three or four tablespoonfuls of olive 
oil. Toss and turn the fruit with a 
spoon and fork, adding the last of the 
oil cautiously. Turn onto a bed cf 
crisp, well- washed and 
dried lettuce hearts, and 
ser\'e at once. 

French Dressing (for 
Tomatoes, Cucumbers, 
Lettuce, etc.) 
Mix together one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt, white pep- 
per, English mustard, 
and powdered sugar. 
Stir in four tablespoon- 
fuls of olive oil, then 
gradually add one tablespoonful, each, 
of lemon juice and plain cider or tar- 
ragon vinegar. Finish with the juice 
of half a small onion. 



Lamb and Potato Hash, Southern 
Style 
Melt one-fourth a cup of butter. 




Hot Boiled Tongue for Game Course 

Cook in this a scant fourth a cup of 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
dash of paprika. Then add two cups of 
lamb broth, carefully freed of fat, or two 
cups of water. Stir and cook until the 
sauce thickens. Then add a cup and a 
fourth, each, of cooked potatoes and lamb 
cut in small cubes. Two slices of onion 
and half a dozen peppercorns may be 
cooked in the butter, and removed from 
the sauce before the meat and potato are 
added. Let the meat and potato become 
very hot, without boiling. Then serve 
at once. 

Mint Punch 

(To serve with Roast Lamb or Mutton) 
Boil one pint of water and one cup 




Orange Salad served witli Hot Boiled Tongue 



of sugar ten minutes, let cool, and add 
half a cup of lemon juice and one-third 
a cup of creme-de-menthe cordial. 
The leaves from half a bunch c^f mint 



28 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




(about a dozen and a half stalks), with melted butter, and set into a 
chopped fine, may be used instead of baking dish. Turn in three or four 
the cordial. tablespoonfuls of veal or chicken broth, 

and let bake about 
twenty minutes. Serve 
at once with a sauce 
made of brown veal 
broth and tomato puree 
and flavored with Madeira 
wdne. 

Spanish Veal Balls 

(By Blanche Ping) 

Remove skin, bone, 

and waste from enough 

veal to ^deld one pound 

and a half (two pounds 

of veal steak will give this quantity), 

and chop the veal with one-fourth a 

pound of fat salt pork or bacon. Rub 

over an earthen mixing-bowl with a 

crushed clove of garHc, put in the 

chopped meat, one cup of fine bread 

crumbs from the centre of a stale loaf, 

two unbeaten eggs, a teaspoonful of 

salt, a dash, each, of paprika and 

celery salt, a level teaspoonful of sugar, 

and a little fine-chopped parsley. Mix 

the whole together thoroughly, then 

form into balls. Roll these in flour 

to coat them lightly, then set into a 

frying basket, and plunge into a kettle 

of hot fat. Let cook about two 

minutes just long enough 

to coagulate the outside 

and keep the balls in 

shape. Drain on soft 

paper. Have ready, 

very hot, half a can of 

tomatoes, thickened with 

a level tablespoonful of 

flour mixed with half a 

cup of cold water; add 

a palatable seasoning of 

celery salt and paprika, 

then drop in the balls, 

one^ by one, cover, and 

let simmer twenty minutes. Serve in 

the tomatoes poured onto a platter, 

with a sprig of parsley in the top of 

each ball. 



Stuffed Mushrooms 

Stuffed Mushrooms 
Peel eight mushroom caps of the 
Campestris variety. Chop the stalks 
and peelings with two shallot or a slice 
of mild onion. Add the gills scraped 
from the caps, and cook in two table- 
spoonfuls of butter five or six minutes, 
stirring frequently. Add about half 
a cup of fine-chopped chicken, veal, 
tongue, or ham, or a mixture of two 
or more, and one-fourth a cup of white 
wine or of Madeira, and cook until 
reduced, then moisten with brown 
or tomato sauce (one or both), and add 
a teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley, 
with salt and pepper as needed. Keep 




Spanish Veal Balls 

the mixture rather firm and consistent. 
Put this into the mushroom caps, 
rounding it up in each cap. Over the 
mixture spread cracker crumbs, stirred 



Seasonable Recipes 



29 



Salmon with Green Butter (Salad) 
Cook a middle cut of salmon in court 
bouillon, — i.e., water acidulated with 
vinegar (one cup of 
vinegar to two quarts 
of water) , — to which 
onion, carrot, celery, 
parsley, sweet herbs, 
and spices, cooked in 
butter, have been 
added. Cool in the 
liquid, then drain, re- 
move the skin, and set 
aside to become cold. 
When cold, cover with 
a very thin layer of 
' ' yellow butter . " Or- 
nament this with tiny 
figures cut from slices of truffle and with 
green butter piped on with a small tube. 
Surround with lettuce and fresh mush- 
room caps, peeled, simmered fifteen min- 
utes in veal broth, cooled, and filled with 
cold, cooked green peas, seasoned with 
French dressing. Pass mayonnaise dress- 
ing or sauce Tartare in a separate dish. 

Green Butter 
Chop and pound a tablespoonful of 
capers, one tablespoonful of blanched 
parsley (scalded, rinsed in cold water, 
and wrung dry in a cloth), two table- 
spoonfuls of cooked 
spinach, and the 
cooked yolks of three 
eggs. Then press 
through a very fine 
sieve. Beat half a cup 
of butter to a cream. 
Then gradually beat 
in the sifted material. 
Add also paprika and 
a tablespoonful or 
more of lemon juice. 
When slightly chilled, 
it is ready to use. 
For "vellow but- 
ter" omit the green 
vegetables. Sifted anchovies may be 
added with the yolks of eggs, if de- 
sired. 



Blueberry Muffins 
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter; 
gradually beat in half a cup of sugar. 



m 






7*' 




m 


^^m 


^ 


ai 


l^ll 


— . . - „ 


-.■?=isp| 


^^■1 



Salmon with Green Butter, Lettuce, Etc. 



then one ^gg, and the white of another 
beaten without separating the whites 
and yolk, and, alternately two cups of 
sifted flour, sifted again with half a 
teaspoonful of salt and four level tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder, and half 
a cup of milk. Lastly beat in a heap- 
ing cup of fresh blueberries. Bake in 
a hot, well-buttered muffin-pan about 
twenty-five minutes. 

Kaiser Semmeln 
Soften a cake of compressed yeast in 
one-fourth a cup of boiled water, cooled 




Blueberry Muffins 

to a lukewarm temperature, and stir in 
about three-fourths a cup of flour or 
enough to make a dough that may be 



30 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



kneaded. Knead the little ball of 
dough until it is smooth and elastic. 
Then make a deep cut across the dough 




Cherry Pie 

in both directions (see page 338, Feb- 
ruary, 1906, magazine). Have ready 
two cups of boiled water, cooled to a 
lukewarm temperature, and into this 
put the ball of dough. It will sink to 
the bottom of the dish, but will gradu- 
ally rise as it becomes light. In about 
fifteen minutes it will float upon the 
water , a light , puffy ' ' sponge . ' ' Into this 
water and sponge stir a teaspoonful of 
salt and between six and seven cups of 
flour. Knead or pound the dough about 
twenty minutes. Let rise in a tempera- 
ture of about 70° F., until the mass is 
doubled in bulk. Divide into pieces 
weighing about three ounces each 
(there should be about fourteen pieces) . 




Rhubarb Fanchonettes 

Shape these into balls. When all are 
shaped, with a sharp knife, cut down into 
each to make five divisions. Set the 
balls into buttered tins, some distance 



apart, brush over the tops generously 
with melted butter, and set to bake at 
once in a hot oven. Bake twenty or 
twenty-five minutes. 
When nearly baked, 
brush over with the 
beaten white of an 
egg, and return to the 
oven to finish baking. 
Bake the biscuit as 
soon as they are cut 
and brushed with 
butter. Only by this 
means can the shape 
and fine texture of 
this form of bread be secured. This 
recipe is said, by those who have 
eaten the bread in Vienna, to give a 
near approach to this justly famous 
Vienna bread. The Hungarian wheat 
used in Vienna makes a difference in 
flavor, which cannot be exactly du- 
plicated in this country. 

Cherry Pie 

Line a plate with pastry, put in as 
many stoned cherries as the pastry 
will conveniently hold, probably about 
a pint measured after stoning, sprinkle 
with half a teaspoonful, scant measure, 
of salt, about two-thirds a cup of sugar, 
and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Dot 
with bits of butter, a 
tablespoonful in all. 
Brush the edge of the 
pastry with cold water, 
and spread over the 
whole an upper crust. 
Press the two crusts to- 
gether closely on the edge, 
and brush the two edges 
with cold water. Bake 
about forty minutes. 
Tart cherries make the 
best pies. A little lemon 
juice improves a pie made 
with sweetish fruit. 

Rhubarb Fanchonettes 
Select young and tender stalks of 
rhubarb. Peel, if needed, and cut the 



Seasonable Recipes 



31 



stalks into quarter-inch slices. Cover 
these with boiling water. Set over the 
fire, and heat quickly to the boiling- 
point. Let cook a mo- 
ment, then drain, pressing 
out the liquid. Over a 
pint of the rhubarb turn 
a cup of sugar, sifted 
several times with half a 
teaspoonful of salt and 
three level tablespoonfuls 
of flour. Stir and cook 
until the mixture boils. 
Then add a tablespoonful 
of lemon juice or a grat- 
ing of orange rind and 
the beaten yolk of one 
or two eggs. Mix thoroughly, and set 
aside to become cold. Line small 
brownie or other tins with pastry. Fill 
these with the rhubarb mixture, and 
set into the oven to bake. Let cool a 
little, remove from the tins, coA^er with 
meringue, and return to the oven to 
cook the meringue. 

Meringue 
Beat the whites of two eggs until dry. 
Gradually beat in two level table- 
spoonfuls of granulated sugar, and 
continue the beating until the mixture 
is very stiff and glossy. Then cut and 



Gooseberry Pie 

Remove the stems and blossom ends 
from a generous cup of gooseberries. 




Strawberry Bombe Glace in Spun-sugar Nest 



With a sharp knife cut each berry in 
halves, stir into these a generous cup 
of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
and two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed 
thoroughly together, then add half a 
cup of water, and mix again. Put the 
mixture into a plate lined with pastrs^, 
add a tablespoonful of butter in little 
bits, cover with a second crust, and bake 
between thirty and forty-five minutes. 
Serv^e with a pitcher of sweet cream. 

Strawberry Bombe Glace in Spun- 
sugar Nest 
Boil one quart of water and one pint 




Spun Sugar Ready to take from the Rods 



fold in two level tablespoonfuls of 
granulated sugar, and flavor, if desired. 



of sugar twenty minutes. Add a tea- 
spoonful of granulated gelatine softened 



32 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



in cold water to cover, and, when cold, 
add the juice of a lemon and one cup and 
a half of straw^berry juice. Freeze, 
using three measures of crushed ice to 
one measure of salt. Have ready a 
three-pint melon mould, partly packed 
in salt and crushed ice. Line the mould 
with the strawberry sherbet, and fill 
the centre with a charlotte russe filling. 
Cover the filling with sherbet, filling 
the mould to overflow. Spread paper 
over the whole. Press the cover over 
the paper, and finish packing the mould. 
Let stand about two hours. When un- 
moulded, surround the ice on the platter 
with a wreath of spun sugar. 

Charlotte Russe Filling 
Beat one cup of double cream until 
solid to the bottom of the bowl. Beat 
the white of one egg dry ; then beat in 
one-third a cup of sugar and a teaspoon- 
ful of vanilla or two tablespoonfuls of 
wine. Mix the egg mixture with the 
cream, and use at once. 

Spun Sugar 

Cook two pounds and a half of granu- 
lated sugar and half a pound of glucose 
to 285° F. Set the bottom of the sauce- 
pan in cold water a moment. Then 
remove from the water. Dip a sugar 
spinner into the syrup, and pass it over 
two rods set a little distance apart on a 
table covered with clean paper, letting 
the syrup spin from the wires of the 
spinner in fine threads. If the syrup 



becomes too cold to spin, reheat a little. 
When a mass of threads has been formed, 
take them from the rods and shape 
into a nest, or nests, of the size desired. 

Cupid's Wells with Ice-cream 
and Strawberries 
Any cake mixture may be used for 
these cases. Those shown in the il- 
lustration were made of cake mixed 
by the recipe for "Sponge Jelly Roll," 
given in the April magazine. This 
recipe calls for one cup of sugar, though 
no sugar w^as mentioned in the recipe 
for Sponge Jelly Roll. Beat two eggs 
(without separating the whites and 
yolks) until very light, then beat in one 
cup of sugar and one cup of flour sifted 
several times with two and a half level 
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt. Lastly 
beat in a teaspoonful of vanilla ex- 
tract and one-third a cup of hot milk. 
Bake in a shallow tin. When cold, cut 
into rounds. This sheet will make 
six rounds of suitable size. Mark out 
a circle on the top of each round about 
one-fourth an inch from the edge of the 
cake, and cut out the cake inside the 
circle to form cases. Cover the cases 
with white icing, and decorate with light 
green icing. Apply the latter icing 
with tiny round and leaf tubes, form- 
ing a vine with leaves. When ready 
to serve, fill the centres with vanilla 
ice-cream, and decorate with choice 
fresh strawberries. 




Cupid's Wells with Ice-cream and Strawberries 



Menus for Every Day in June 



FRIDAY, JUNE 1 
Breakfast 

Raspberries. 

Gluten Grits, Cream. 

Salt Codfish Balls. Cucumbers. 

Kaiser Rolls. 

Coflfee. 

Luncheon 

Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Entire-wheat Bread and Butter. 

Strawberries. Sponge Cake. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Clam Broth. 

Boiled Salmon, Caper Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Early June Peas. 

Prune Whip, Custard Sauce. 

Black Coffee. 


SATURDAY, JUNE 2 

Breakfast 

Malt Breakfast Food, Stewed Prunes. 

Broiled Ham . Potatoes Cooked in Milk . 

Scrambled Eggs. 

Oatmeal Biscuit. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Coquilles of Salmon, 

Cheese and Buttered Crumbs, 

Duchess Potato Border. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Rhubarb Fanchonettes. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Spanish Veal Balls. 

New Beets, Buttered. 

Individual Strawberry Shortcakes. 

Black Coffee. 


SUNDAY, JUNE 3 

Breakfast 

Strawberries, French Style. 

Boiled Rice, Cream. 

Broiled Bacon and Liver. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Baking-powder Biscuit, Toasted. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Soup. 

Roast Fillet of Veal. 

Potatoes Cooked with the Roast. 

Spinach with Eggs. 

Water Crackers. Cheese. 

Strawberry Sherbet. 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Stewed Asparagus on Toast. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Baked Custard Renversec. 

Tea. 


MONDAY, JUNE 4 
Breakfast 

Gluten Grits, 

Evaporated Peaches, Stewed, Cream. 

Omelet with Tomato Sauce. 

Dry Toast. 

Coflfee. 

Luncheon 

Veal Broth with VermicelH and 

Vegetables. 

Bread and Butter. 

Banana-and-Nut Salad. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Strawberry Cocktail. 
Cold Roast Veal, Shced Thin. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Cheese Balls. (Fried) Pulled Bread. 

Black Coffee. 


TUESDAY, JUNE 5 
Breakfast 

Picked Pineapple. 

Grape-nuts, Cream. 

Hashed Veal on Toast. 

Baked Potato Cakes. Radishes. 

Parker House Rolls. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cream-of-Asparagus Soup, Croutons. 

Cheese Souffle. 

Bread and Butter. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Broth with Poached Eggs. Olives. 

Broiled Blue Fish, 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter. 

Mashed Potatoes. Scalloped Tomatoes. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Canned Apricot Parfait. 

Sponge Cake. 

Black Coffee. 


WEDNESDAY, JUNE 6 
Breakfast 

Hot Shredded Wheat Biscuit. 
Strawberries, Cream. 

Broiled Tripe. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Southern Beaten Biscuit. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Blucfish Salad with Lettuce and 

New Beets. 

Bread and Butter. 

Rhubarb Pie. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Guinea Hen en Casserole. 

Salad of \cgetable Macedoine Mousse. 

Strawberries. 

Black Coffee. 


THURSDAY, JUNE 7 

Breakfast 

Barley Crystals, Bananas. 

Broiled Bacon. Baked Eggs. 

Rice Griddle-cakes. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Guinea Hen Souffle, Mushroom Sauce. 

Asparagus Baked with Cheese. 

Macedoine-of-Tomato Jelly Salad. 

Boiled Custard with Snow Eggs. 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Smoked Beef. 
Southern Beaten Biscuit. 
Strawberries. Brownies. 
Tea. 


FRIDAY, JUNE 8 

Breakfast 

Farina Cooked with Raisins. 

Creamed Salt Codfish. 

Baked Potatoes. New Cucumbers or 

Pickles. 

Dry Toast. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Egg Timbales, Asparagus Sauce. 

Bread and Butter or Yeast Rolls. 

Rhubarb Baked with Candied Orange 

Peel. 

Sponge Cake. Tea. 

Dinner 

Blucfish Baked with' Dressing, 

Egg Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Asparagus Salad. 

Vanilla Ice-cream, 

Strawberry Sauce. 

Black Coffee. 


SATURDAY, JUNE 9 

Breakfast 

Malt Breakfast Food, 

Very Ripe Bananas. 

Cold Boiled Ham. 

Scrambled Eggs. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Com-meal Muffins. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lamb Chops, Broiled. 

Stewed Tomatoes. Baked Potatoes. 

Prune Pie. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Cannelon of Beef (Round Steak). 

Brown Sauce. 

Scalloped Potatoes. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Frozen Apricots (Canned). 

Black Coffee. 



Menus for Every Day in June — Continued 



SUNDAY, JUNE 10 


MONDAY, JUNE 11 


TUESDAY, JUNE 12 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Strawberries. 


Stewed Prunes. Grape-nuts, Cream. 


Strawberries. Boiled Rice. 


Frogs' Legs, Sauted. 


Cannelon of Beef, Shced Tliin. 


Lamb and Potato Hash with Green 


Bacon Rolls. Radishes. 


Fried Potatoes, German Fashion. 


Peppers. 


Parker House Rolls. 


Rye -meal Muffins. Cereal Coffee. 


Eggs Cooked in the Shell. 


Fried Mush. Maple Syrup. Coffee. 
Dinner 


Luncheon 


Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Toasted. 
Cereal Coffee. 


Consomme with Flageolet. 


Stewed Lima Beans with Cream. 


Luncheon 


Roast Leg of Lamb, Mint Sauce. 
Franconia Potatoes. 


Strawberry Shortcake. 
Coffee. 


Smoked Halibut or Salmon. 
Lettuce Salad. 


Asparagus, Drawn Butter Sauce. 


Dinner 


Bread and Butter. 


Cress Salad. 

Crushed Strawberrv Ice-cream. 

Angel Cake. Black Coffee. 

Supper 


Tomato Soup (Lamb Bone, etc.). 


Strawberries in Sponge Cake Cases, 


Cold Roast Lamb, SHced Thin. 

Early June Peas. 
Baked Bananas, Sultana Sauce. 


WTiipped Cream. 
Dinner 


Potato Salad. 


]Mashed Potatoes. 


Cream-of-Spinach Soup. 


Sardines. Olives. 


Macedoine Salad. 


Hot Boiled Tongue, Madeira Sauce. 


Toasted Rolls. 


Bread Pudding, Viennoise. 


Orange Salad. 


Oatmeal Macaroons. Tea. 


Black Coffee. 


Strawberry Shortcake. Black Coffee. 


WEDNESDAY, JUNE 13 


THURSDAY, JUNE 14 


FRIDAY, JUNE 15 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Strawberries. 


Pmeapple. 


Gluten Grits, Cream. 


Toasted ^^^leat, Cream. 


Malt Breakfast Food. 


Fish Chops. 


Hashed Tongue, Creamed and au Gratin. 


Beauregard Eggs. 


Potatoes Hashed in Cream. 


French Fried Potatoes. 


Com-meal Muffins. Cereal Coffee. 


Kaiser Rolls. Cereal Coffee. 


Popovers. Cereal Coffee. 


Dinner 


Luncheon 


Luncheon 


Veal Broth with Cream and Rice. 


Egg-and-Asparagus Timbale, 


Cheese Custard. 


Sweetbreads, Doria Style. 


Bechamel Sauce. 


Stewed Prunes. 


Early June Peas. 


Bread and Butter. 


Pineapple Sherbet. 


Casserole of Mashed Potatoes. 


Royal (Grape Juice) 'WTiips, in Glasses. 


Dinner 


Boston Cream Cakes, 


Pineapple Cake. 


Broiled Sirloin Steak, Bernaise Sauce. 


FiUing Whipped Cream and Crushed 
Strawberries. 
Black Coffee. 


Dinner 


Mashed Potatoes. 


Fish Chowder. OHves or Pickles. 


New Stringless Beans. 


Browned Crackers. Edam Cheese. 


Cress, Whipped Cream Dressing. 


Supper 


Cress. 


Poor Man's Rice Pudding 


Stewed Asparagus. 


Scalloped Rhubarb (Buttered Bread 


(Baked with Raisins). 


Dry Toast, Buttered. 


Crumbs, Raisins, SHced Rhubarb, 


Black Coffee. 


Cookies. Cocoa. 


Baked). Black Coffee. 


SATURDAY, JUNE 16 


SUNDAY, JUNE 17 


MONDAY, JUNE 18 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Strawberries. 
Barley Crystals, Cream. 
Broiled Ham. Shirred Eggs. 
\^Tiite Hashed Potatoes. 


Stewed Peaches. Boiled Rice, Cream. 

Smoked Beef, Frizzled. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Waffles, Maple S>Tup. Cereal Coffee. 


Malt Breakfast Food. 

Eggs Poached (in Oven) in Timbale 

Moulds (Buttered and Dredged with 

Chopped Parsley), Tomato Sauce. 

Dry Toast. 
Rhubarb-and-Orange Marmalade. 


Southern Beaten Biscuit. 
Coffee. 


Dinner 


Consomme. 


Cereal Coffee. 


Luncheon 


Ribs of Beef, Roasted. 


Luncheon 


Macaroni w^th Cheese and Tomatoes- 


Franconia Potatoes. 


Asparagus Baked with Cheese. 
Bread and Butter. Rice Bavarian Cream . 


Bread-Prune-and-Pecan Nut Sandwiches- 


Beet Greens. 


Cocoa. 


Junket Ice-cream (Vanilla), 


Sugared Strawberries. Tea. 


Dinner 


Strawberrv Sauce. 


Dinner 


Cottage Pie (Neck of Veal). 


Black Coffee. 


Beef Broth with Vegetables. 


New Stringless Beans. 


Supper 


Boiled Leg of Lamb, Caper Sauce. 


Lettuce Salad. 


Creamed Sardines on Toast 


Boiled New Potatoes (Bermuda). Cress- 


Pineapple and Strawberry Salad 


(Chafing-dish). 


and-Cucumber Salad, Cream Dressing. 


(Sweet). 


Olives. 


Cheese. Browned Crackers. 


Black Coffee. 


Strawberries. 


Stuffed Prunes (Fondant and Nuts). 
Black Coffee. 


TUESDAY, JUNE 19 


WEDNESDAY, JUNE 20 


THURSDAY, JUNE 21 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Oranges. 


Strawberries. 


Gluten Grits, Cream. 


Grape-nuts, Cream. 


Shredded Wheat Biscmt. 


Skewers of Liver and Bacon. 


Cold Roast Beef, Sliced Thin. 


Roast Beef and Potato Hash with 


Fried Potato Cakes. 


Horseradish. 


Green Peppers. 


Southern Beaten Biscuit. 


New Potatoes Hashed in Milk. 


Popovers. Cereal Coffee. 


Cereal Coffee. 


German Coffee Cake. 
Cocoa. 


Luncheon 


Dinner 


Lamb Croquettes, Ivlint Sauce. 


Breaded Sweetbreads, Fried. 


Luncheon 


Southern Beaten Biscuit. 


Stewed Asparagus. 


Lamb Rechaufee, Creole Style. 


Baked Bananas, Sultana Sauce. 


Cress-and-Cucumber Salad, 


Marguerites. Tea. 


Tea. 


Cream Dressing. 


Dinner 


Dinner 


Swedish Rosettes with Caimed Peaches. 


Broiled Scrod, Anchovy Sauce. 


Cream-of-Com Soup, St. Germain Style 


Black Coffee. 


Mashed Potatoes. 


(Lamb Broth) 


Supper 


Asparagus, Black Butter. 


Hamburg Steak, Maitre d 'Hotel Butter. 


Scrambled Eggs. 


Canned Pears. 


French Fried Potatoes. 


Cold Smoked Beef Tongue, SUced Thin. 


Cream Cheese. Water Crackers. 


New Onions (Boiled) in Cream. 


Baking-powder Biscuit. 


Black Coffee. 


Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream. 


Strawberries. Tea. 



Menus for Every Day in June — Continued 



FRIDAY, JUNE 22 


SATURDAY, JUNE 23 


SUNDAY, JUNE 24 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Strawberries. 


Farina, Cream. 


Strawberries. 

Hot Graham Scones. 

Cocoa. 


Smoked Halibut, Creamed. 


SHced Tongue Heated in Tomato Sauce. 


Baked Potatoes. Radishes. 


French Fried Potatoes. 


Fried Rice. Cereal Coffee. 


Kaiser Rolls. Cereal Coffee. 


Luncheon 


Dinner 


Dinner 


Macaroni Milanaise. 


New Onion Soup. 


Stewed Fowl. Boiled Rice. 


Strawberry Shortcake. Coffee. 


Ham of Young Pig, Roasted. 


Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce. 


Dinner 


Spinach with Eggs. 


Lettuce Salad. 


HaUbut Steaks Baked with 

Bread Dressing, 

Hollandaise Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. 


Mashed Potatoes. 

Tapioca Custard Pudding, 

Vanilla Sauce. 

Black Coffee. 


Cheese Sticks. 

Ginger Ice-cream. 

Meringues. Black Coffee. 


New Beets Stuffed with Chopped Cu- 


Supper 


Supper 


cumbers, French Dressing (with 


Stewed Lima Beans. Olives. 


Stewed Mushrooms or Creamed HaUbut. 


Onion Juice). 


Bread and Butter. 


Bread and Butter. 


Ebony Mould (Jellied Prunes and Nuts). 


Rice and Cheese Fritters. 


Waldorf Triangles. Cup Custard with 


Black Coffee. 


Tea. 


Snow Eggs. Tea. 


MONDAY, JUNE 25 


TUESDAY, JUNE 26 


WEDNESDAY, JUNE 27 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Hashed Fowl on Shredded Wheat Biscuit. 


Chopped Ham Scrambled with Eggs. 


Strawberries. 


Grape-fruit Marmalade. 
German Coffee Cake (Reheated). 


Brown Hashed Potatoes. 


Malt Breakfast Food. 


Rice Griddle- cakes, Maple Syrup. 


Broiled Bacon. Eggs Poached in 


Cereal Coffee. 


Cereal Coffee. 


Bacon Fat. 


Luncheon 


Luncheon 


Dry Toast. Muffins. Coffee. 


Cold Ham of Young Pig, SUced Thin- 


Macaroni-and-Cheese Timbale. 


Luncheon 


New Potato Salad. 


Stewed Tomatoes. 


Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 


Bread and Butter. 


Hot Delmonico Pudding, 


Hot Salad RoUs. 


DeHcate Indian Pudding, Cream. 


(Strawberry Jam and Meringue.) Tea. 


Baked Bananas, JeUy Sauce. Coffee. 


Coffee. 


Dinner 


Dinner 


Dinner 


Cream-of-Asparagus Soup. 


Fillet of Beef, Roasted, 


Veal Cutlets, Breaded. 


Lamb Chops, Breaded 


Mushroom Sauce. 


Old Potatoes Cooked as New. 


(Fried in Deep Fat). 


Asparagus on Toast, Bechamel Sauce. 


Spina ch-and-Egg Salad. 


Early June Peas. Scalloped Potatoes. 


Lettuce Salad. 


Cottage Pudding, 


Cress Salad. 


Pineapple and Strawberries in Pineapple 


Strawberry Hard Sauce. 


Caramel Bavariose. 


Shell. 


Black Coffee. 


Black Coffee. 


Wafers. Black Coffee. 


THURSDAY, JUNE 28 


FRIDAY, JUNE 29 


SATURDAY, JUNE 30 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Breakfast 


Grape-nuts, Cream. 


Gluten Grits. 


Raspberries. 


Cold Fillet of Beef, SUced, Horseradish 


Parsley Omelet. 


Bariey Crystals. 


Sauce. 


Potatoes Cooked in Milk. 


Corned Beef Hash, Mustard. 


Brown Hashed Potatoes. 


Yeast Biscuit (Reheated). 


Graham Muffins. 


Rye-meal Muffins. Coffee. 


Cereal Coffee. 


Cereal Coffee. 


Dinner 


Luncheon 


Luncheon 

Soup. 

Deviled Ham Sandwiches. 

Prune Souffle, 

Boiled Custard. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 


Tomato Bouillon. 


Veal Loaf, New Potato Salad. 


Hot Corned Beef. Beet Greens. 


Baking-powder Biscuit. 


Plain Boiled Potatoes. 


Custard Pie. 


Bread Pudding, Viennoise. 


Cocoa. 


Black Coffee. 


Dinner 


Supper 


Boiled Salmon, Egg Sauce. 


Clear Broth. 


Veal Loaf, SHced Thin. 


Plain Boiled Potatoes. 


Creamed Corned Beef au Gratin. 


Cress Salad. 


Early June Peas. Cucumber Salad. 


Spinach. 


Yeast Biscuit. Strawberries. 


Lemon Sponge. 


Custard Souffle, Sabayon Sauce. 


Tea. 


Black Coffee. 


Black Coffee. 


MENU FOR SCHOOL BANQUET (Buffet). 


Hot Creamed Asparagus and Chicken in Small Paper Cases. 


Salad RoUs. Olives. 


Lettuce-and-Salmon Salad. Pecan Nut, Veal-and-Lettuce Salad. 


Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 


Raspberry Cup. Vanilla Ice-cream. Assorted Cakes. 


Coffee. Fruit Punch. 


CLASS DINNER. 


First Course. Strawberry Cocktail. Second Course. Consomm^ Julienne. 


Thirri PrM.rco J Salmon Croquettes, Peas. 

I nird course. | Cucumbers, French Dressing. Kaiser Roils. 


Entree. Braised Sweetbreads with Vegetables. 


Fourth Course. Toumedos of Beef, Modern Style. Cress Salad. 


Fifth r^iirsP i Vanilla Ice-cream and Raspberry Sherbet Moulded together in Brick Mould. 
"" course. | pondant-covered Little Cakes. 


Black Coffee. 



Menus for a Week in July 

* ^0 ^tilp is to t(0 tl)C toorfe of tfje SjjOVIIJ." — Vacation Suggestion. 





"BreakfAst 


<BreakUsi 




Red Raspberries. Green Pea Omelet. 


Red Raspberries with Hot Shredded Wheat 




Kaiser Rolls. Coffee. 


Biscuit. 
Hashed Lamb in Curry Sauce. Boiled Rice. 




"^Dinner 


Dry Toast. Cereal Coffee. 


>H 


Consomme Royal. 


Luncheon 


< 


Loin of Veal, Bread Dressing (Green Herbs). 


Calf's Brains with Macaroni and Tomato 


Q 


Franconia Potatoes (New). 


Sauce. 


CO 


Summer Squash. Stewed Gooseberries. 
Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 


Blackberry Shortcake. Tea. 


Raspberry Bombe Glace. 


'Dinner 




Browned Crackers. Olives. Edam Cheese. 


Clear Soup with Spring Vegetables. 




Black Coffee. 


Broiled Sirloin Steak, Bernaise Sauce. 




Supper 


Summer Squash. Stringless Beans. 




French Fried Potatoes. 




Blueberries. Bread. Milk. 


Currant Pie. Black Coffee. 




^reakUsi 


breakfast 




Rice Omelet. 


Sauted Sweetbreads, Bacon. 




Blueberry Muffins. 


PotatoesXooked in Milk. 




Cereal Coffee. Cocoa. 


Radishes. Waffles. Cereal Coffee. 




Luncheon 




Stewed Lettuce. 


Luncheon 


i 


Bread and Butter. 




Caramel Custard. Cookies. Tea. 


Deviled Ham Timbales, Tomato Sauce. 


o 


^nner 


Blueberry Cake. Cocoa. 


Tomato Bouillon. 






Veal Croquettes. Peas. 




Cheese Pudding. 


Spanish Veal Balls. 




Lettuce, French Dressing. 


Summer Squash. Buttered Beets. 




Gooseberry Tart. 


Blackberry Bombe Glace. 




Black Coffee. 


Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Blueberries. Malt Breakfast Food. 

Broiled Lamb Chops. Bacon. 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk. 

EngUsh Mufhns, Toasted. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Fresh Codfish, Creamed. 

Potatoes Scalloped with Onions. 

Cherry Pie. Coffee. 

^nner 

Soup. 

Fore Quarter of Young Lamb, Roasted. 

Currant Jelly, Mint Sauce. 

Stewed Cucumbers, Bechamel Sauce. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Lettuce-and-Peppergrass Salad. 

Cherry Juice Frappd. 
Angel Cakelets. Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Barley Crystals. Berries, Cream. 
Broiled Halibut, Maitre d'Hotel Butter. 
Whited Hashed Potatoes. Cucumbers. 
Parker House Rolls. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Tomato Rabbit on Toast. Olives. 

Cherry Pie. Cereal Coffee. 

"TXnner 

Beef Broth with Macaroni Rings. 
Lettuce, Salmon-and-Egg Salad. 

Salad or Kaiser Rolls. 
Lemon Ice-cream, Cherry Sauce. 
Macaroons. Lady Fingers. 
Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Berries. Eggs in the Shell. 

Broiled Honeycomb Tripe. 

New Potatoes, Baked. 

Dry Toast. 

Blueberry Muffins. 

Cereal Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Macaroni and Chopped Veal 

in Brown Sauce. 

Raspberry Shortcake. 

Cold Tea with Orange Juice. 



"Dinner 

Cream of Stringless Bean Soup, 

Breaded Lamb Chops, 

Tomato Sauce. 

Green Peas. Garden Cress Salad. 

Blueberry Sponge (Cubes of Stale 

Bread Moulded with Hot Berry 

Juice), Sugar, Cream. 

Black Coffee. 



After Breakfast Chat 

By Janet M. Hill 

"The women of the home should so arrange their household duties as to allow time for outdoor 
exercise and some form of healthful recreation — back to nature. ' ' — Egg-0-See Company. 



"The ignorance of mothers in feeding children is worth a thousand pounds a year to me. 
C. Clark, London. 



-Sir 



AN old adage runs something 
like this : " A workman is known 
^by his tools." No one expects 
a carpenter with dull planes or broken 
saws, and who does not own a glue-pot 
or a spirit-level, to turn out a finished 
job. A woman may use a hair or hat 
pin for a larding- needle and bone a 
chicken or a fish with a knife that will 
not take, much less keep, an edge; 
but she who makes no effort to supply 
herself with fitting implements of her 
trade, certainly has no great love for 
her calling, and is not destined to shine 
therein. The cook who visits the pub- 
lic library to examine dictionaries of 
cooking, in order to discover what a 
certain chef uses in Hollandaise sauce 
to give it an odd and piquant flavor, 
will never beg for work. Her calling 
means more to her than the buying 
power of the money she receives on 
Saturday night. 

Yet, granting that this be true, the 
old adage needs an amendment or an 
addition, for the modern workman is 
known by the disposition he makes of 
his tools. A kitchen pantry has its 
uses, but it is turned from its legiti- 
mate purpose, when it is made into a 
storehouse for the utensils needed at 
the range and sink. Go into your 
kitchen to get breakfast or dinner, and 
count the steps you might save, were 
the various saucepans, frying-pans, 



forks, dredgers, etc., needed in the actual 
cooking of the meal, suspended from 
hooks on the wall at the back of the 
range or where the hand can be quickly 
laid upon them. Note the distance 
between the stove and sink. In two 
houses lately visited two rooms lay 
between them. Is the refrigerator con- 
veniently placed in reference to the 
pantry or the place where food is pre- 
pared for cooking? Modern houses, 
supposedly, are planned aright, but 
do not go on the supposition that 
whatever is is right. Do not waste 
your strength these bright mornings in 
useless, monotonous walking back and 
forth in the kitchen. Have things 
arranged to save steps, and put in the 
extra time on the veranda or under the 
trees. 

And, be you mistress or maid, pre- 
pare the fresh fruit for the table or 
fresh vegetables for cooking in the 
same cool place. Do this, even if you 
are working at high pressure. You 
have heard of the woman with so many 
things to do that it was hard to decide 
which to do first, who, after a moment's 
consideration, concluded to do the most 
needful, and so lay down and took a 
nap. 

Simplify the cooking during the hot 
months. Comphcatcd dishes, sauces, 
rich cakes, and pastry are certainly out 



38 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of season — to say the least. Fruit and 
berries are always welcome, and, when 
tired of the old way of serving with 
cream and sugar, try them with oil 
and acid. Those who are conservative 
lose half the joy of life, and the first 
places where one's conservatism crops 
out is in respect to food. -x Cress or 
lettuce hearts quickly grown, and thus 
tender, harmonize well with fruit, and 
are needful for the perfect fruit salad. 
These need no special dressing, but, 
washed and carefully dried and used 
as a bed for the fruit, will take up a 
sufficiency of the ample supply of 
dressing provided for the fruit. In 
the dressing discard mustard. The 
best oHve oil is the main thing to be 
desired. If the fruit be sweet, lemon 
juice, a tablespoonful to each three of 
oil, will be needed, with the salt and 
paprika. For oranges, pineapples and 
berries cut down the quantity of lemon 
juice. In a raspberry salad use cur- 
rant juice rather than the juice of the 
lemon. 

Bread is always in great demand 
throughout the summer. Let it be 
varied in shape, texture, and material. 
Rolls or biscuits are, of course, baked 
more quickly than the same mixture 
in loaves. Mixed at ten o'clock at 
night, in the proportion of one-third 
a yeast cake to a pint of liquid (plus 
half a cup with the yeast), the dough 
will be ready to cut down at five and 
to bake at about seven o'clock in the 
morning. At this season it is no 
hardship to arise at that hour, es- 
pecially if by so doing one may take 
an hour for siesta in the heat of the 
day. 

Our ideas in regard to drinking 
water, food, drainage, and sanitation 
in general, have certainly advanced 



in the last fifty years. We no longer 
beheve that sickness is a dispensation 
of providence, but the sure result of 
broken laws on the part of some one. 
Given certain conditions, and certain 
results will follow as surely as the night 
follows the day. At all times health 
is the result of eternal vigilance, but 
during the heated season this vigilance 
must be increased. City houses, where 
plumbing has not been lately renewed, 
and country houses, where there is no 
plumbing, alike need constant and 
unremitting supervision. Bad odors 
and bad drinking water are the chief 
sources of malaria, diphtheria, dysen- 
tery, and typhoid fever. All are the 
sure result of carelessness on your part 
or that of your neighbor. Uncovered 
drains are a menace to the commu- 
nity. Clear, sparkling, nay, even pleas- 
ant-tasting water may be drawn from 
a well polluted by out-buildings and 
drains. The extent of territory drained 
by a well is larger than the average 
householder would believe. 

To-day the relation of food to health 
is recognized by the careful mother; 
and, in seeking to avoid occasion for 
complaints and disorders, common in 
summer, she takes cognizance not only 
of the drinking water, but avoids the 
presentation upon the table of ill- 
cooked vegetables (unsoftened cellu- 
lose), unripe fruit, or stale proteid sub- 
stances. If such disturbances of health 
do occur, rest in bed and fast from food 
are the remedies of the well-informed 
woman ; and, after the trouble is over, a 
hasty return to solid foods is not deemed 
expedient. Well-boiled rice with milk, 
arrowroot, cornstarch, or wheaten gruel, 
are given to tide over the time until 
a complete return to health is assured 
and a slow return to the ordinary diet 
is permissible. 



A Daisy Wedding 

By Inez Redding. 



WHEN the sacred marriage vows 
are pledged, the church seems 
always the fitting place for 
the ceremony, unless there be the 
feeling that some brides cherish, that 
a man should make a woman his wife 
only in the home of her parents, taking 
her therefrom to a home of her own. 
But the church ceremony is always 
sweetly solemn, and most often now 
is the sacred rite performed there. 
Almost every smart wedding has a 
distinctive feattire, which gives a name 
to the function. It may be a "noon 
wedding" or a "lily wedding" or a 
"white wedding." The maiden who 
is to take her place at the head of a new 
household in the early summer months 
will select wisely if she elects to have 
a "daisy wedding." 

Her classmates will see that the 
church is decorated with the dainty 
blossoms. They will bring ferns or 
other fine greenery for the back of 
the altar, and bank it at the back for 
some distance above the head of the 
pastor, when he comes from out the 
side door with the bridegroom to wait 
the coming of the bride. They will 
gather the longest-stemmed daisies and 
weave amid the ferns, so that the rear 
of the altar shall be an immense screen 
of blossom and foliage. They will 
make wreaths or ropes of daisies for 
the front of the gallery. They will 
make gates of daisies and ferns, one of 
which the little flower girls will open to 
receive the wedding party within the 
chancel enclosure, and the other will 
be opened as they pass out after the 
ceremony. They will make a rope of 
daisies for the pews reserved for the 
family and intimate friends, and fasten 
great bunches of the dainty blossoms on 
the corner of each of the reserved pews. 
The church should be opened an hour 
before the time set for the ceremony, 



and the ushers should be in waiting 
at that time. Each usher — and six is 
the proper number, should wear three 
daisies as a boutonniere. As the guests 
enter, each is escorted to a seat by 
an usher, who offers his right arm, and 
only a most discourteous person will 
indicate a preference in seats. The 
organist plays from the moment the 
doors are opened until the last member 
of the bridal party has left the edifice. 
At the appointed hour all the doors, 
except the one through which the bridal 
party will enter, are closed. And 
through this pass the six ushers and 
the six bridesmaids wearing white 
gowns, and each carrying at her side 
a large bunch of daisies. The hand 
which closes over the stems should be 
held well down and close to the body, 
while the blossoms rest on the corsage. 
The maid of honor following the bride's 
attendants walks alone, and her flowers 
may well be calla lilies, if these are 
easily procurable, or white peonies. 
The bride with her shower bouquet of 
lilies of the valley, her right hand rest- 
ing on the arm of her father, follows, 
and at the altar they meet the waiting 
groom. Softly, very softly, the organ 
is played while the ceremony is being 
performed, and at its close peals out in 
triumphant strains as the bride, taking 
the arm of her husband, passes through 
the gate of flowers, and, preceded by 
the little flower girls with their baskets 
of rose leaves, which they scatter before 
her, passes down the aisle, following 
her attendants, and followed by the 
ushers. 

The moment the party is outside the 
door, each member of the family and 
those occupying reserved scats are 
escorted to the door by the ushers. 
Then the ribbons, which have been 
stretched past the entrances to the pews, 
are removed, and the function is ended. 



How we kept House after the Earthquake 
at San Jose, Cal. 



By Jessie Juliet Knox 



EVEN in moments of greatest 
terror one must think of the 
ordinary things of hfe; and 
never before has been so plainly dem- 
onstrated the old saying, "Self-pres- 
ervation is the first law of nature." 

When the great shock came, it was 
just at dawn; and all were asleep. 
No one can ever describe the awful- 
ness of that moment, when the whole 
house and everything in it were shaken. 
We jumped from the bed; but, before 
we could get out of the bedroom door, 
roof and chimney fell in on the bed 
we had just left. It is not pleasant 
to look death in the face in this way. 
In fact, it is the quintessence of hor- 
ror. Before we could get to our one 
child, it seemed a lifetime. At last 
we three together tried — I say tried — 
to go downstairs. Surely, it must 
have been a century before we accom- 
phshed that seemingly simple feat. 
For we were knocked down over and 
over again, and beaten and banged 
against the sides of the stairway. We 
felt no physical pain then, however, 
because we were in a trance of mental 
agony. 

When, at last, we succeeded in reach- 
ing the large front door, which is al- 
ways, locked, and also has a burglar 
chain, it was wide open. Some people 
could not open their doors at all, but 
had to break a windovv^ to get out. 
The great dragon inside the earth is no 
respecter of bolts and bars and burglar 
chains. 

Once outside, in the chill of the 
early morning, we found every one 
arrayed in the same airy fashion as 
ourselves. It did not seem at all out 
of place for people to be in the middle 
of the street in night robes, conversing 
in terrified tones about the awful thing 



which had just happened. As soon as 
people could gain courage, they ran 
back into their wrecked homes, if 
possible, and then ran out again with 
anything they could find in the way 
of clothing. They were dressing in 
all the streets ,and parks, and many 
things happened that would be most 
ludicrous at any other time, but now 
life was too serious a thing. It was 
no time for laughter. 

One man, who was in his bath, 
rushed out into the streets in natural 
state, except that he had picked up 
the only thing he could find, which 
happened to be the funny page of a 
Sunday paper ; and this he had wrapped 
around him. A kind-hearted lady took 
off a short petticoat, and gave it to 
him. The building from which he 
ran was destroyed, and we never heard 
what became of him. 

After the first excitement had some- 
what subsided, people began to feel 
faint, and knew they must make an 
effort to get some breakfast. Now 
began the ordeal of housekeeping under 
difficulties. We never had really ap- 
preciated our blessings until this mo- 
ment. A gas range and every modern 
convenience we had always taken as 
a matter of course ; but now, trembling, 
faint, and desiring a cup of hot coffee 
more than anything else in the world, 
we crept into the kitchen, thinking 
we could, at least, have some coffee, 
and be ready to jump out of the door 
at the slightest tremor. Our first 
glance was into the pantry. When we 
had left it the night before, it had 
been a thing of beauty, from the house- 
wife's view-point ; but now — ah, now ! — 
canned fruit, broken bottles, pickles, 
cornstarch, eggs, molasses, — every- 
thing under the shining heavens (for 



How we kept House after the Earthquake 



41 



the heavens had the audacity to be 
shining even then), — were piled up a 
foot deep all over the pantry floor, 
ad had to be removed later with a 
hoe. The neat shelves were a mass 
of ruins. Stepping carefully over the 
nauseous-looking heap, we finally suc- 
ceeded in reaching the coffee, which, 
fortunately, had not been thrown 
down. Our mouths fairly watered at 
the prospect. It would only take a 
minute, as one can cook so quickly with 
gas. Striking a match, we turned 
on the — what? No gas? Only the 
faintest suggestion of it, and with this 
feeble imitation it took an age to boil 
enough water for coffee. No sooner 
was the coffee finished than the gas 
departed entirely. Our menu consisted 
of bread and coffee, and we were lucky 
to get that. 

By this time we began to worry 
about many friends who might even 
now be dead. Hurrying to the 'phone, 
we found that the electricity had been 
shut off all over San Jose ; and we could 
not communicate with any one. All 
around us we could see houses shat- 
tered like kindling wood ; but we dared 
not leave home, and our neighbors 
were all as one big family. Fences 
were broken down, so that we might 
be sociable. People were now friends 
who had been enemies. Sorrow is a 
great leveller, and knows no caste. 
The men got to work, and built camp 
stoves of brick, either in the streets 
or the yards; for there were brick in 
plenty that day, as every chimney 
in the * * garden city ' ' had fallen . 

We were afraid to leave home for 
fear of another shock, so in each block 
of the city, surrounded alike by beauty, 
ruin, and desolation, huddled fright- 
ened groups of people, all filled with 
the same awful fear, and with love 
for the whole world. 

When the reports from San Fran- 
cisco reached us later on, it seemed 
like a horrible nightmare ; and we could 
not really believe that San Francisco, 



the gay and beautiful and prosperous 
queen of the Pacific, was being de- 
stroyed. But it was true, alas! it 
was true. 

And now came the refugees, by the 
thousand, from 'Frisco. Also came 
the fear of a food famine. We were 
feeding the hungry thousands at the 
depot ; but would there be enough food 
left for ourselves? It was whispered 
everywhere, "You had better lay in 
a supply of provisions while you can, 
as there is going to be a famine." And 
we did so; for very few had cash in 
their pockets, and some dealers would 
not sell on credit. Our home was al- 
most a wreck, so we kept house in 
the orchard. Our camp stove was 
very popular, as we had been fortu- 
nate enough to find an old iron sink 
in the basement; and this, with plenty 
of bricks and a stove-pipe, made a 
splendid stove. We put an awning 
over it, too, — an umbrella right over 
the stove; but we didn't get the um- 
brella until our breakfast had been 
cooked in the pouring rain. Trifles 
like this did not matter in the least, 
though, compared with the magni- 
tude of the sorrow which had come 
upon us. 

In 'Frisco millionaires were seen 
carrying frying-pans and coffee-pots, 
and cooking on the camp fires, which 
were now made in some of the most 
noted thoroughfares of the city. Mill- 
ionaires, too, stood in the "bread 
line," waiting hungrily for a loaf of 
bread, side by side with the "South of 
Market" tough. Nob Hill aristocrats 
were glad to drink from the same cup 
with the painted denizens of Grant 
Avenue; and all forgot to be haughty 
and scornful, only remembered to be 
kind and loving, for all alike shared 
the common woe, and all alike were 
cold and hungry and thirsty. 

After all, there is so little one really 
needs, — only to be warm, to sleep, and 
drink and eat. 

At the very time when one could 



42 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



not afford to eat, everybody had rav- 
enous appetites, because of being con- 
stantly out of doors, and everything 
tasted like a king's food; and coffee — 
bracing, hot coffee — sipped out of 
doors, in company with fried corn- 
cakes and green onions, was Hke the 
ambrosial nectar of the gods. It is 
true we are all as brown as Indians ; but, 
you see, it does not matter now, for we 
realize that such things don't count. 

All over the "garden city" people still 
are sleeping in tents, — tents in the park, 
tents in the street, tents in the yards, — 



everjrwhere. We have gas now, and 
the telephone; but the camp stove is 
still there, if needed, and we are still 
sleeping in tents. 'The inside of a 
house, no matter how beautiful, does 
not attract us now; and we live out 
of doors in the sweet spring sunshine, 
and breathe the odor of flowers, which 
are more exquisite and more lavish, 
it seems to us, than they ever were 
before. 

Housekeeping in primitive style is 
not so bad, after all. There are worse 
things. 



The Kitchen Pantry Beautiful 



By a Skilful Artisan 



HERE are some drawings of 
boxes reconstructed from 
empty cigar boxes for service 
on the shelves of the kitchen pantry. 
Empty cigar boxes are available in 
every household. If not, the cook or 
some other industrious person about 
the house can visit the nearest cigar 
store, and obtain a collection of empties. 
Of course, the empties are liberally 
decorated with colored labels, and 
these are often pasted on quite securely. 
But a few saturations with a wet sponge 
and a httle scraping with a kitchen 
knife will remove the ornamental ad- 
vertising matter. The paper covering 
at the edges answers the purpose of 
holding the seams together to a certain 
extent. But you can strengthen the 
box corners with additional fine nails 
or by means of metal comers or angles. 
Then the partition work put inside 
serves to strengthen the parts. In 
figure I we exhibit the box in condition 
for preparation. The partitioning of 
the box for bottled preserves is done 
as in figure 2. The best way to get 
the stock for making the partitions is 
to break up other cigar boxes, one or 



more. Cut your strip to extend length- 
wise the box, and insert it. Put some 
thin wire nails, or regular cigar box 
nails, through the ends and bottom, 
into this dividing section. Then cut 
out the cross partitions, and secure 
them in the same way. 

The dousing in moisture, to remove 
the gummy labels from the box, will 
have destroyed the fabric and paper 
hinge of the lid, and therefore you will 
need go to a hardware store and buy 
some very Hght metal hinges of the strap 
order. These may be connected with 
the cover and body of the box with 
small screws or soft metal nails, which 
may be turned inside, and thereby 
afford a gripping joint. A little piece 
of leather strap and knob on the lid 
and front of box affords a means of 
securing the cover down for closing. 
Of course, you can use the box in this 
order. Or you may do some painting 
or staining. Stains are always appro- 
priate to use. Painting destroys the 
natural color of the wood, and wood 
finishes are not possible. Therefore, 
staining and varnishing usually follow 
next. Some ornamental brass -work 



The Kitchen Pantry Beautiful 



43 




may be put on, if desired, and the little 
chest is finished. 

A kindred one, made for keeping 
silver polish in, is shown in figure 3. 
It is best to select a flat, low box for 
this service, as the apartments would 
be too deep for retaining the various 
ingredients used in pohshing metals. 

The dainty and orderly cook often 
likes to have several spice boxes on the 
pantry shelves, and we exhibit such a 
box in figure 4. This is made much 
like the silver polish box, except that 
the apartments are divided off differ- 
ently, to accommodate the various 
spices. A tray is often handy for ser- 
vice in one of the higher boxes. If a 
deep box is partitioned off, it is diffi- 
cult to get at the bottom of the deep 
places. Therefore, some of the boxes 
are divided off to half the depth of the 
box. Then a tray is made, as in figure 
5, to fit into the upper portion. 

The easiest way to make these trays 
is to measure off on a box the proper 
proportions, and remove the lid. Then 



V the box body is divided into the 

Ji required sections, and it is ready 

for use. In figure 6 is exhibited 

a large-sized spice box for the 

tidy kitchen girl. 

In order to make a box of this 
design, the largest pattern of cigar 
box should be chosen. Owing to 
the large size of the box, some 
additional securing of the corners 
will be required. You can buy 
brass or white metal or common 
iron corners, straps, and the like 
at the dealers in builders' hard- 
ware. The lightest of metal trim- 
mings are required for the delicate 
wood of the cigar box. No pantry 
is complete without the conven- 
tional tool box. The tool chest of 
the hardware store is too bulky. 
A very handy little cigar box 
chest for pantry tools can be 
made from a good large cigar box, 
as in figure 7. One-half the box 
should be divided off, and a tray pro- 
vided for tacks, nails, and little hooks, 
devices so convenient to have at hand 
in the kitchen. Then the other divi- 
sion of the box can be used for tools, 
such as a hammer, screw-driver, and 
one or two other useful implements. 
A strap may be nailed across the lid 
inside for holding a few small tools. 
A chest of this kind is of great service . 




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OLD CORKS. 




44 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



One cook saved old corks. Figure 8 
is the way in which the cigar box was 
arranged for this. The lid was taken 
off. Then four pieces of common tele- 
graph wire were cut 8 inches long, each, 
and bent to the form shown. Then 
with little staples the wires were fast- 
ened to the edges of the box. 

Some ingenious pantry maids save 
all pieces of twine for future use. 
In figure 9 is a twine box made of a 
cigar box. The edge trimming is simply 
strips of thin leather tacked on. One- 
half the box is used for pieces of twine, 
and the other for a ball of twine. 
Shears are arranged in a leather loop 
in the lid. Figure 10 is a match safe, 
made by using a very small cigar box. 
The base or back board is made from 
the hd or bottom of a larger box. 
The wood is so soft and thin that the 
pattern work can, as a rule, be cut 
out with a sharp knife. 

Figure 11 is a drawing of a series of 
boxes, one above the other, in tier 
form. Three boxes are selected, and 
side boards are utilized for the support 
of the same, as shown. Then the 
boxes are finished off as desired, and 
used for pumice, potash, and soap for 
cleaning purposes. Bills, accounts, 
cards, receipts, etc., are often scattered 
about the shelves of the pantry. Fig- 
ure 12 shows a convenient little cigar 
box on legs for receiving these articles. 
Artistically curved legs are not neces- 
sary. Straight ones are more readily 
made, and will do as well. 

An ornamented pantry shelf box is 
shown in figure 13. It takes time and 
patience to make the cigar box over to 
this form. You can make the orna- 
mental work of wood, fret-sawed out, 
or you can buy decorating sheet metal 
at the hardware store, and secure it to 
the wood surfaces with little nails. 

Many like growing plants in the 
kitchen. A cigar box for a plant box 
should be square, and deep enough to 
hold plenty of earth. Only light plants 
can Ije thus accommodated. 





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Figure 14 illustrates a good way to 
construct such a box. Then, again, in 
figure 1 5 we exhibit a combination made 
much like the match device shown 
above. In this polish-box combination 
a back is made for supporting the polish 
box, as shown. On the back are brass 
hooks for brush, etc. 



Foreign Pensions 

By Arthur W. Brayley 



PROBABLY 50 per cent, of 
American visitors to Europe 
stay at pensions. We call them 
boarding-houses in this country, but 
it would never do to refer to them by 
that term in the presence of the pro- 
prietors. Boarders, indeed ! They may 
take paying guests, but boarders ! Hor- 
rors! 

In London, Bloomsbury, bounded by 
Tottenham Court Road, Huston Road, 
Southampton Row, and New Oxford 
Street, is the great boarding-house dis- 
trict, and is often referred to as Yankee 
land. Within this territory one is al- 
most certain to meet friends from the 
United States. It is safe to say that 
90 per cent, of the buildings within 
this boundary are pensions, and their 
name, often* that of some State in 
America, is emblazoned in large brass 
plates or painted over the door. They 
are substantial old-fashioned brick 
structures that will before many years 
"fall in" to the possession of the owner 
of the land. Should you ask your host 
what is meant by "falling in, " 3^ou will 
be told that the land on which the 
houses rest is owned by some member 
of the Royal house (the holdings of the 
Duke of Bedford being the largest) , and 
that at the expiration of the one hun- 
dred years' lease the buildings revert 
to their titled owners, although they 
have not expended one penny on the 
erection or maintenance of the build- 
ings. 

Leasing a building located on this 
land is no trifling matter. I have seen 
one of these leases, and it covered 
twenty closely written sheets of fools- 
cap, and it included every clause that 
would benefit the landlord. Among the 
many items was one specifying that the 
occupant should once in twelve months 
"do up" the interior and exterior of 
the building, by which was meant that 



the interior must be renovated and the 
exterior painted and "pointed." This 
annual painting gives an opportunity 
to the tenant to use his or her individual 
taste as to color, with the result that no 
two houses in the long row of buildings 
on either side of the street are of the 
same color, producing an effect more 
or less startling, to say the least. It 
is interesting to note that nearly everv 
structure in London is of light-colored 
stone or is painted in the lightest 
shades, — this in a city where the soot 
is so dense that but a few weeks' ex- 
posure is sufficient to give them a coat- 
ing of grimy black. 

A great many of these pensions ad- 
vertise for guests, and are not particu- 
lar as to whom they entertain; but a 
few of the more exclusive have no signs 
on their doors, and will receive only 
those who have letters of introduction. 
The prices vary from thirty-five shil- 
lings up per week, inclusive, according 
to room, which means that you receive 
room, breakfast, luncheon, tea, and 
dinner, although in the off season the 
terms are reduced. This price does not 
include heat. That is paid for at eight- 
pence per scuttle for coal, and the few 
houses that enjoy the luxury of a bath- 
room charge sixpence per bath. Of 
course, you may "tub" in your room as 
much as you wish without charge, ex- 
cept, perhaps, a small tip to the maid 
for fetching water. 

During my two years' stay in London 
I had a rather varied experience in 
domestic economy, having made my 
home in hotel, lodgings, private houses, 
and pension, and thereby come to know 
wherein lie the advantages of the latter. 
Hotel life in London is pretty much 
the same as in all large cities, — is ex- 
pensive and lonely. The lodgings, where 
you order your own food and have it 
cooked by the landlady and served in 



46 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



your rooms, are enough to drive a man 
to dissipation. The private family 
scheme is all right, if you happen in 
with the right family, but that is a 
chance. At last I settled in an exclus- 
ive pension, and rounded out a winter 
and a summer as a "paying guest." 
The landlady was a charming English- 
woman who had been mistress of the 
house for twenty years, during which 
time she had endeared herself to hun- 
dreds of American tourists who had 
made her house their home during their 
stay in London. Her house during the 
season always was full, but during the 
winter the long dining table was short- 
ened, and those who found a place at it 
were in the main "permanent" guests. 

There were nine guest-chambers in 
the house, six of them being large 
square rooms, and the working force, 
besides the mistress, consisted of cook, 
" 'tween" girl, chambermaid, and table- 
girl. That no manfolk was included in 
the list of servants was quite exceptional 
in a house of this kind, as almost every 
other pension sheltered one or more 
young men from Germany, France, 
Russia, or other nation, who sought 
employment in these places at a "little 
a week," in order to learn the English 
language ; and it is no uncommon sight 
to see them through the windows on 
warm days, minus coat and waistcoat, 
working in kitchen or dining-room. 

One is never warm in London from 
November until March, except when in 
bed. The poky little fireplace, filled 
with bituminous coal that is supposed 
to heat each room, is well enough, so 
long as you cuddle up to it almost 
within the danger line, but move a few 
feet away, and one experiences a most 
disagreeable chill. The houses are 
poorly ventilated, necessitating the 
opening of windows, to remedy this 
sanitary defect, but this adds to one's 
discomfort. The natives will smile at 
your congested features and complaints 
of low temperature, and will give you to 
understand that they enjoy the cool 



and breezy rooms. But watch them. 
It is dollars to doughnuts that, when off 
guard, they will seek the warmest corner 
and a place nearest the fire. Of course, 
the temperature is not so low as we 
have it in New England. One wishes it 
was, instead of that dreary drizzle, 
searching chill, that reminds a Bos- 
tonian of the east winds of fall or spring 
at home. 

How may one account for this pe- 
culiar and inadequate heating arrange- 
ment? It is not that soft coal is 
cheap : it costs from twenty to thirty 
shillings per ton, and gives but 40 per 
cent, of heat, while we pay $7 per ton, 
and obtain 75 per cent, of heat. The 
American furnace, steam, and hot-water 
apparatus man is in the field, and is 
slowly, very slowly, introducing his 
goods ; but even in the newest business 
buildings the old-time fireplace or gas 
radiator is depended upon. In looking 
for office accommodation, I called at a 
large new building in the Strand. It 
was fitted up with "lifts" and other 
modern improvements, and contained 
over four hundred offices, but every one 
of those four hundred rooms had the 
regulation fireplace, and tenants were 
compelled to buy coal by the scuttle 
and have the fires attended to by the 
care-taker. 

But let us back to the pension. The 
menu at the pension where I made my 
home was, I have good reason to believe, 
superior to the majority of houses of its 
class, and was supposed to represent 
good old English cooking. Because the 
guests were Americans, cereals were 
served at breakfast, but that meal was 
never known to pass without bacon 
and boiled eggs. There were kippered 
herring, steak, and broiled finnan haddie 
for a change ; but bacon and eggs were 
always there. No matter if cold or over 
or under done, it was on hand, and, 
strange to say, I never knew my English 
friends to refuse it. Orange and plum 
marmalade were also a breakfast and 
{Continued on page 54.) 




HOME IDILAS 
AriD ECOnOMlES 




.J^.^■JU^Aa^A.^A.^A,^A...A.>A..^ft».Jt.^^^»arJK^Ar/^n^ A 



Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for 
at reasonable rates. 



w: 



Economical Suggestions 
HAT shall we do with all this 
melted ice-cream? What a 
wasteful act to throw it away!" This 
remark was made to my up-to-date 
niece, who promptly answered, "Let 
me take charge of it, for I can make 
of it a nice dessert." When a tempt- 
ing mould of cream appeared at dessert, 
she told me it was 

Moss Cream 

Use one cup and a half of the cream, 
one glass of wine, and the juice of a 
lemon. Beat thoroughly together. 

Soften one-quarter a box of gelatine 
in one-quarter a cup of cold water. 
Let stand about twenty minutes. Then 
add one-half a cup of boiling water, 
and stir until dissolved. Add one- 
quarter a cup of sugar, and let stand 
until cool. When the mixture begins 
to thicken, add the cream mixture, and 
beat until thoroughly mixed. Then 
put it in the mould. 

Finding this invention of my niece 
so palatable, my ambition was roused 
to see if something equally good could 
be made of the cream in the way of 
cake. I therefore made 

Thin Gingerbread 
Beat two generous tablespoonfuls 
of butter to a cream. Gradually beat 
in two heaping tablespoonfuls of gran- 
ulated sugar. Add one well-beaten 
egg, and then one cup of the cream. 
Sift one cup of pastry flour with two 



teaspoonfuls of yellow ginger and two 
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder 
together, and stir into it with enough 
more pastry flour to make a dough 
stiff enough to roll out. Roll very 
thin, and cut in fanciful shapes. Have 
at hand a saucer of granulated sugar, 
and, before setting the cakes into the 
baking-pan, press each down firmly 
into the sugar. Bake to a delicate 
brown. c. j. 

Nopals 

USE only the small, tender leaves 
of the nopal, and remove the 
espinas, or thorns, with a pen-knife. 
Cut the leaves in tiny squares, and 
boil in salted water until very tender. 
Put in a cazuela a tablespoonful of 
lard. When hot, add a little chopped 
onion, and fry lightly. Now add about 
a pint of the nopals, well drained, a 
tomato chopped, half a cup of hot 
water, salt to taste, and one dried 
chili. If the tomatoes are juicy, no 
water will be required. Cook half an 
hour, and ser\^e with halves of hard- 
cooked eggs around the dish. An ad- 
dition, much liked by the Mexicans, 
is a few shrimps, either fresh or canned, 
added to the nopals while cooking. 
The dried chili is prepared by soaking 
in water fifteen minutes, and then 
grinding in a metate. 

Palmetto 
Palmetto is the large bud at the 
extremity of the cabbage palm, and 



48 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



has a dcHcious nutty flavor. First 
take off the outer covering, or husk, 
then commence to shce very thin. 
After shcing awhile, you will find that 
the outer part becomes tough. Re- 
move it, and slice again, removing the 
successive layers as they become tough. 
AMien it is all sliced fine, put in a cazuela 
with one-half a chopped onion and 
tomato. Brown slightly, and add a 
little hot water or broth, one-half a 
teaspoonful of salt and a little chiH, 
either green or red, if liked. Dried 
meat previously soaked may be added. 
Palmetto makes a nice salad by boil- 
ing, and then using a boiled mayon- 
naise or plain French dressing. Do not 
put any onion with the salad. 

Small green calabasas, or summer 
squash, are superior to egg-plant when 
prepared in the following way: Cut in 
slices, one-fourth an inch thick, put in 
salted water for one hour. Drain, dip 
in flour, and fry in plenty of lard. 

Jirimiquers, which resemble turnips, 
and are eaten raw, are made into a 
salad by peeling, cutting in slices, add- 
ing sliced oranges and a few seeds of 
chili. Add salt and a little oil and 
vinegar. 

Chiotes are parboiled in their skins, 
then peeled and cooked like turnips 
or fried with onion and tomatoes. 

The combination of onion and to- 
matoes and a little garlic fried together 
and used in nearly every vegetable 
and meat dish is one of the reasons of 
the savoriness of some Mexican cooking. 

Mexican beans, either brown or 
black, are always better if boiled three 
or four hours the day before using. 
Next day put one tablespoonful of 
lard into a cazuela. Make very hot. 
Add a pint of boiled beans, some of 
them partly mashed, salt to taste, 
and cook one hour longer. They must 
be very moist when cooked. Mashed 
and fried brown with a little chili 
and onion, they will be found to be 
very nice. RosE RussKLL. 



A FRIEND returning from a six 
weeks' visit to Cuba is enthusi- 
astic over the use of the green pep- 
per and the red sweet pepper or 
pimento there; and now she is de- 
lighting her family by presenting them 
each day with some new dish — new, at 
least, to them, and probably to many 
of the rest of us — in which one or the 
other figures. 

She makes a very delicious salad 
by cutting the green peppers in halves, 
removing the seeds and white mem- 
brane, and placing them in a very 
hot oven, just long enough to remove 
the outer tough skin. When cold, 
the peppers are arranged in a flat dish, 
alternately, with slices of fresh tomato ; 
and the salad is served with French 
dressing. A very attractive and good- 
tasting salad in which lettuce does not 
appear. 

Another salad served by her at a 
Lenten luncheon was very pretty and 
pleasing to the palate as well. For 
this six eggs were cooked twenty 
minutes. The yolks were removed 
from the whites and put through a 
puree sieve. The whites were cut 
into narrow strips, and the pimentos, 
the kind that come in cans, were cut 
into strips as well. Crisp leaves of 
lettuce were arranged in a salad dish. 
Over them w^ere laid the shredded 
whites of the eggs, then the strips of 
pimentos, then the yolks of the eggs, 
and, lastly, a few more pimento strips 
for garnish. A French dressing, of 
course, was used with this, too. 

A very good little entree for a lunch- 
eon is made by placing pimentos in 
individual bakers, or ramekins, arrang- 
ing them so that they just fit the dish, 
and lining the sides, leaving a place 
in which an ^gg is broken. The bakers 
are then placed in a pan of water, 
put in the oven, and allowed to remain 
until the ^gg is set. A Bechamel 
sauce is poured over, which is a pleas- 
ing addition. 

Rice, chicken, and tomato in cas- 



Home Ideas and Economies 



49 



serole is easy to prepare, and usually 
a delight to men. A cup of cold cooked 
chicken, diced, a cup of boiled rice, 
and a green pepper, chopped fine, and 
well seasoned with salt, are arranged 
alternately in the casserole. Over all 
is poured half a can of tomatoes. This 
is baked half an hour, or perhaps a 
little less, if the oven is very hot. 

A slice of ham is given new flavor 
and made dehcious by this novel treat- 
ment. Placed in a baking-pan, it is 
covered with one chopped green pep- 
per, half an onion grated. Over all 
is poured half a can of tomatoes. This 
is cooked from thirty-five to forty-five 
minutes in a moderate oven. 

A Cuban canape, which ma}" not be 
new to all, is so attractive to both the 
eye and the palate that it should be 
included, we think, in this hst of Cuban 
dishes. On a round of toast is placed 
a thick slice of tomato, over which is 
poured a teaspoonful of French dress- 
ing. On this is laid a ring of green 
pepper, made by cutting the pepper 
through with a knife, and removing 
the seeds and inner white skin. And 
in the middle a teaspoonful of Par- 
mesan cheese adds greatly to the color 
efifect, and taste as well, so that the 
whole is a delicious appetizer and at- 
tractive setting to the table. 

Mrs. G. T. C. 
* 

A GOOD thing to know is, if you 
place a covered jug of milk or 
cream in a pan of cold water, it will 
not turn sour so quickly as if left 
standing without the water, and, if 
placed in an ice box in this manner, 
will keep during a thunder-storm. 

Mrs. L. C. F. 

* 

* * 

• 

TO prevent Oriental or ingrange 
rugs from slipping on hard-wood 
or painted floors, use common felt 
carpet paper, which should be cut in 
strips nearly as long and wide as the 



rug. These strips placed on the floor 
under the rug will prevent wrinkling 
or sliding, which is such a trial to the 
good housekeeper. l. 



* 
* * 



THE smell of fish that is so hard 
to remove from pans and plates 
by washing or soaking will yield to 
lemon skin rubbed over them. This 
will kill the flavor of even salt mackerel 
and salmon in a bake-pan. After 
rubbing with the lemon, let the dish 
stand for a little, then wash in cold 
water, and rinse with hot. 



If you want a shirt-waist box, you 
can fashion one prettier and more 
convenient than those to be bought. 
If the outer surface is smooth, decorate 
it in geometric designs with poker 
work. If this is beyond you, cover 
the box with matting, cretonne, or 
cartridge paper. First line the inside, 
padding it with sheets of wadding, 
between which you have sprinkled 
liberally your favorite sachet powder. 
Take sheets of board, such as artists 
draw upon, and cover. Attach to the 
ends ribbons for lifting. Use these 
to separate the waists, so that all do not 
have to be handled when you want 
to get one. 

An acceptable present for most 
girls who wear white waists and do 
not live at home is a set of irons. 
These come in different shapes for 
fancy ironing. Some are long and 
very narrow, and some are oval. 
Some are made with electric attach- 
ment, and others are heated bv being 
placed over gas or regular range. The 
finer waists are easily laundered in 
one's room, and will escape the tears 
and strain that are given them when 
sent out. The same is true of laces. 



For removing stains of fruits and 
vegetables from the hands, there 
is nothing like lemon juice. A cut 



50 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



lemon should be a part of every kitch- 
en's equipment, for there is no mark 
of vegetable origin that cannot be 
removed by this simple agent. Lemons 
can be used like soap to the benefit 
of the skin at all times. 



Where one has little closet room, 
the following is an excellent method 
of making it count for more. Across 
from side to side put a pole. A 
broom handle may be cut to fit 
space. Over this, hangers keep gowns 
in better order than when hung from 
hooks. By this arrangement one can 
put twice as much in a closet, and 
keep everything in the best of condi- 
tion. Wire hangers may be bought 
at thirty cents a dozen, and, when 
covered with silk, scented or not, look 
pretty; but they preserve shape of 
coats and gown equally well if not 
padded. Dora May MorrelIv. 



* 

* * 



A Novel " Grab " 

AT our last fair the "grab" was 
a very clever imitation of a soda 
fountain. It was placed in an alcove, 
and over the entrance hung this sign, 
"The Fountain of Youth." The foun- 
tain itself was just a big box, with its 
lid removed, standing on end on a 
white covered table. This box was 
covered with white tiled paper, and 
on the top stood several potted plants, 
with a mirror behind them. In front 
a number of large holes were bored, 
and over them projected pasteboard 
spouts covered with silver paper. The 
counter in front of the fountain held 
soda-water glasses, straws, a dish of 
lemons, and so on, while signs were 
hung around the walls, advertising 
the various five and ten cent drinks. 
At a little distance the illusion was 
perfect. Two persons managed the 
fountain. One took the money and 
held the glass under a spout, while 
the unseen assistant behind the box 



dropped into the tumbler a suitable 
parcel, five or ten cent, girl's or boy's, 
as the case might be. 

A Church Calendar 

THREE years ago our parish grew 
tired of the annual fair. It meant 
a great deal of hard work, and the 
money returns were most unsatis- 
factory. The church was compara- 
tively poor, and the financial prob- 
lem was a serious one. Finally, we 
tried the calendar plan, which made 
so small a demand on each member 
that every one could contribute to 
the support of the parish. The head 
of the Women's Guild was the "Year." 
She asked twelve other women to 
be "Months," and each of them found 
four persons who would be "Weeks." 
Every "Week" secured seven "Days."" 
Each was to give ten cents a month. 
On the first day of the month each 
"Day" was requested to pay her dues 
to her "Week," who added her ten 
cents, and handed the resulting eighty 
cents to her "Month" by the tenth 
of that month. The "Month" added 
her lo cents, and then gave $3.30 
to the "Year," who also gave ten cents. 
The exact figures for a month are as 
follows: twelve "Months" at $3.30^ 
each, $39.60 plus ten cents from the 
"Year," $39.70, or for the whole 
twelve months of the year, $475.20. 

In asking people to join our calendar,, 
we promised that there should be no 
begging for a fair during the year of 
the calendar ; and most of them were 
only too glad to escape the greater 
evil by this method. 

It is but fair to add that some mem- 
bers were tardy and irregular in their 
contributions, as might be expected. 
Still, the system has worked so well 
as a whole that on Jan. i, 1907, we 
shall begin on our fourth year under 
the calendar. Ours starts from the 
New Year; but, of course, that is not 
obligatory. Any other time woulcJ 
reallv do as well. 



Home Ideas and Economies 



f» 



Testing Water 

RECENTLY I was told (then tried) 
the following test, and thought, 
perhaps, it might interest your readers. 
If you are doubtful as to the purity 
of drinking water, draw a glass from 
the suspected well, spring, or faucet, 
drop in it a large lump of white sugar, 
and allow it to remain in a place of 
about 60° F. over night. In the morn- 
ing, if the water is pure, it will look 
perfectly clear ; but, if it be impure, it 
will have a cloudy, milky appearance, 
and you may beware of germs. Be 
sure to cover the glass. Never allow 
milk or drinking water to stand un- 
covered to catch the dust. Both milk 
and water absorb odors and impuri- 
ties very quickly, and are then unfit 
for use. In fact, a bucket of cold 
water placed in a closed fresh-painted 
room will remove the odor of turpen- 
tine entirely. 

Simple Little Helps 

NEXT time you have an attack of 
headache, neuralgia, ear or tooth 
ache, pain in the stomach, even a 
sprained ankle, and while you are 
waiting for the doctor to arrive, try 
hot- water applications. The very best 
way to do this is to put a piece of 
old flannel in a basin, pour boiling 
water over it, and let it stand a couple 
of minutes. In the mean time lay 
a clean towel on the table, and with 
a stick (or any convenient article) 
lift the flannel out of the hot water 
onto the towel. Fold the towel over, 
then twist tightly to remove superflous 
water, and apply the flannel as quickly 
as possible to the afflicted part, cov- 
ering it with oiled silk to keep in heat 
and moisture. If oiled silk is not ob- 
tainable, try oiled paper. It will an- 
swer in cases of emergency, and is 
equally good to keep heat in poul- 
tices. Fomentations treated as above 
may be applied much hotter than in 
case you try to wring the flannel with 
the hands. 



Try breathing through the nose as 
a preventive of colds. Also avoid 
colds by keeping your rooms at an 
even temperature. 

Teach children to take pride in 
their hands by setting them the exam- 
ple. Provide the little folk with a 
tray (or box) and a few Httle mani- 
cure tools. If well taken care of, the 
ugliest nails can be improved, and 
made really nice. The cuticle must 
be pushed back daily, immediately 
after the hands are washed and thor- 
oughly dried. It is best to use a soft 
towel, good toilet soap, and an orange- 
wood stick to push back the skin. 
The nails should never be cut. This 
makes them very brittle, and then 
they break so easily. Instead use a 
file. It takes a little longer, perhaps, 
but the result is much more satis- 
factory in the end. L. H. w. 

How to dry Berries 

BLACK raspberries or the purple 
Columbian berry are the best for 
this purpose. They should not be 
overripe. 

The fruit should be free from dust 
and gathered by clean hands, so that 
it need not be washed before drying. 

Look over carefully, and spread in 
layers, three berries deep, on earthen 
plates or granite tins. Set in the oven 
or on the back of the stove until brought 
to a scalding-point, then at once re- 
move to a place that is simply warm 
enough to keep the moisture slowly 
evaporating, but where there is no pos- 
sible danger of burning. Stir occa- 
sionally with a spoon. In twelve hours 
the fruit should be reduced to one- 
third its original bulk, when three 
plates may be put together, giving 
room for a fresh supply. 

It will take from thirty-six to forty- 
eight hours to remove all the moisture. 
Then the berries will be ready to pack 
away. At the last the berries should 
be again brought to a scalding-point. 



5^ 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



to insure freedom from insects. In 
doing this, watch constantly, lest the 
berries burn. 

Pack the fruit in small pails with 
tight covers, or baking-powder cans 
may be used. 

Before putting on the cover, spread 
over the top as many thicknesses of 
•clean paper as will shut down with the 
cover, the edge showing below the 
cover when it is on firmly, so as to 
make it moth-proof. 

In a day or two take off the cover; 
and, if any moisture appears on the 
paper or sides of the pail, heat enough 
to remove it, and put on a dry paper. 
The dishes may be set in any dry place. 
Fruit dried in this way will keep for 
years; and, although an old-fashioned 
way, it is an agreeable change from 
ordinary canned and preserved fruits. 
It should be carefully washed in luke- 
warm w^ater before using, and stewed 
for a long time in plenty of water, sugar 
to be added just before serving. 

c. A. M. D. 

" R. S. V. P." 

A SMALL boy translated these 
letters into the phrase, "Refresh- 
ments served very promptly." But, 
then, small boys are apt to think of 
good things to eat, and desire them 
served as soon as possible. The cus- 
tomary letters are not always heeded 
as they should be. People forget that 
their hosts may, if regrets be received 
promptly, extend invitations to others, 
and that such failure to reply may bar 
others from pleasure in a true dog-in- 
the-manger manner, especially if the 
seats be counted for a musicale or if a 
house be small and the list of guests 
long. 

It is not alone the need to know how 
to cater well, though this is a main rea- 
son for the initials. In the matter of 
school receptions those who receive 
cards often lay them aside, and think 
of them only as a form of courtesy 



from a young lady, and that by and 
by in some letter to her mother they 
will express interest, and regret that 
the}^ could not attend. The fact is 
that at most schools the graduating 
class extends the invitations, which 
are often limited in number, and the 
class settles all bills. Whether their 
friends reply or not makes a difference 
upon each one's share of the bill; for 
unless notes declining the invitations are 
received, then the full price is paid for 
all on the list, as if they had attended. 

At the closing exercises of a large 
private school the graduating class 
sent out handsome cards for an es- 
pecial occasion to be followed by re- 
freshments.. Instead of replying to 
the young ladies, one person wrote in 
the correct third person, but addressed 
it to the lady principal, whom she 
knew; and then, as if it were a per- 
sonal letter, she happened to think of 
a request from this same lady principal 
for a good recipe for brown bread, and 
so she added a postscript in off-hand 
fashion on the reverse side of the sheet, 
and appended to it her recipe for good 
brown bread. Whether it was to have 
the matter off her mind, to save a 
stamp, or to convey some useful in- 
formation in addition to what she 
thought needless formality between her 
self and the lady principal, or whether 
she feared the young ladies would not 
survive the summer without the knowl- 
edge of brown-bread making, was never 
explained. 

Lest jocosely inclined readers suggest 
that this woman was from New Eng- 
land, and all that was lacking was an- 
other recipe informing the girls how to 
bake beans, I will add that she was not 
from Boston nor New England. 

JuuA Davis ChandIvKR. 
* 

Rhubarb Conserve 

CHOP fine three and one-half pounds 
of rhubarb. Add three pounds 
of sugar and the grated rind and 



Home Ideas and Economies 



S3 



juice of two lemons, and set to cook. 
When the sugar is melted and the mixt- 
ure is boiling all over, add one-fourth 
a pound of blanched almonds, chopped 
fine, and one-fourth a pound of candied 
orange peel, shredded very fine, and 
let cook about thirty minutes, or until 
it looks like marmalade. Store as 
jelly. Mrs. H. H. C. 

*** 

Wiener Strudel (trom a Hungarian 
Cook) 

Supplied by the Loring School 

SIFT one and one-half cups of flour 
on the moulding-board. Make a 
well in the centre. Put in one 
ounce of lard, yolk of an egg, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, and water 
enough to "stick." Work all together 
hard. Then slap on the board (this 
is the same movement used in slap- 
ping Bab a and French bread). Work 
and slap until the dough will not stick 
to the board. Heat a deep tin pan. 
Put it over the dough, and let it 
stand. Cover a long kitchen table 
with a cloth (white and clean), and 
sprinkle flour all over it. When the 
dough has risen (it takes fifteen or 
twenty minutes under the pan to 
rise), take it out, and pull and stretch 
gently with the hands in all direc- 
tions from the centre. Then place it 
on the middle of the table, and pull 
by the edges until it covers the table, 
and is as thin as a delicate skin. Sprin- 
kle with melted butter, and spread 
with the following filling. Cut off 
any thick edges of dough, if there are 
any. Fold over the edges from the 
ends and sides toward the centre by 
lifting the cloth (you can coax it 
gently into a symmetrical roll). Roll 
from both ends toward the middle until 
they meet. If the roll is too long for 
the buttered pan, cut it. Bake thirty 
minutes. 

Filling for Strudel 
Quarter and core some apples. vSlice 



them very thin, and spread over the 
whole surface of the dough, and over 
this sprinkle one cup of chopped nuts 
(pecans are good) and one cup of 
sugar. Sprinkle, when done, with pow- 
dered sugar. 

THE class in cooking at "The Lor- 
ing School," Chicago, 111., as a 
result of ten weeks of instruction, pre- 
pared, April 28, the following luncheon 
menu. With the exception of the 
bread, the luncheon was prepared by 
means of two burners of a gas range 
and a small oven set over one of the 
burners, and regulated with an oven 
thermometer. 

Menu 

Consomme. 

Swedish Cups Filled with Creamed Chicken 

and Green Peas. 

Orange Salad. Potatoes O' Brian. 

Strawberry Shortcake. 

Bread. Baking-powder Biscuit 

Southern Worked Biscuit. 

In the afternoon they gave an ex- 
hibition of bread, biscuit (as above), 
pound cake, sponge cake, Banbury 
cakes, Swedish rosettes, orange jelly, 
rhubarb tart with ornamented meringue 
and charlotte russe. 



Canning Red Raspberries 

FILL the jars with the fruit, shak- 
ing down well (but do not crush). 
Adjust covers and rubbers, and place 
in a kettle of cold water in the same 
manner as explained. Then bring to 
boiling-point, and boil until the steam 
will issue from the jar of fruit when 
opened. Lift from the kettle, and fill 
to the brim with a hot (boiling) syrup 
made in proportion of one cup of stigar, 
half a cup of water, and, for a pint can of 
raspberries, add one tablespoonful of cur- 
rant juice. The currant juice gives the 
berries such a rich flavor that those 
canned without it seem flat in comparison. 
All kinds of berries canned in this 
way remain perfectly whole, and re- 
tain a fresh fruit flavor that is lacking 



54 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



when cooked or stewed in a granite 
kettle. Plums, peaches, etc., require 
longer cooking than a tender berry. 



1. To remove down from duck or 
goose is a great problem to many house- 
wives, wh3 will welcome this hint. 
Roll the duck in powdered resin, dip for 
a moment in boiling water and expose 
to the air, when the resin at once har- 
dens, forming a coating which is easily 
rubbed off, taking the down with it. 

2. A handful of common salt will 
clean a bath-tub like magic. 

3. Canned fruit or vegetables, if 
opened and poured out into an earthen 
dish, will freshen wonderfully if allowed 
to stand an hour or two. 

4. Ordinary baking-powder cans are 
useful for moulds to freeze parfaits and 
mousses, also for steaming brown bread. 

N. M. 

Orange Pekoes 
Cream a generous half-cup of butter. 
Add a scant cup of sugar, two well- 
beaten eggs, and a scant half a cup of 
milk. Sift a teaspoonful of soda and four 
level teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar 
with two cups of bread flour. Beat, and 
add a quarter a cup of dried orange peel, 
pounded fine or passed through the 
food-chopper, and half a cup of chopped 
nut meats. Drop, far apart, on but- 
tered sheets, using a salt-spoon as 
measure, and bake in a quick oven till 
the edges are brown and crisp. 

Serena. 



School for Graduate Workers 
A school for graduate workers in 
Household Science will be held, from 
July 2 to July 14, 1906, at the Univer- 
sity of Illinois, Urbana, 111. This 
school is under the auspices of the 
department of Household Science. Ten 
courses are offered. Among these we 
note "Architecture in its Relation to 
Household Science," "Physiology and 
Dietetics," "Work of the Office of Ex- 
periment Stations for Home Econom- 
ics," and "Nutrition Investigation." 
Among the lecturers are Miss Abbie L. 
Marlatt, of the Manual Training High 
School, Providence, R.I., Miss Isabel 
Bevier, University of Illinois, Dr. True 
and Dr. Langworthy of the office of 
Experiment Stations, Washington, D.C. 



Foreign Pensions 

{Concluded from page 46.) 
luncheon fixture. Let me emphasize 
the fact that we had delicious coffee. 
This leads me to add a word as to that 
beverage. Why cannot one obtain a 
cup of drinkable coffee in London? 
I have had served some of the queerest 
liquids, when I asked for coffee, that 
ever passed mortal lips . Chicory should 
be asked for, as fully two-thirds of that 
weed is used to one -third of the coffee 
berry. And the English people will 
tell you they prefer it that way. But 
the English are a tea-drinking nation, 
and they surely make up in the ex- 
cellence of that beverage for their 
failure in the other. 



Sleep Time 

Cora A. Matson Dolson 



Out in the garden the roses sleep, 

Over them sails the moon. 
In through the window the bright stars peep. 

Hush, my own baby one 



What do the soft winds sing about ? 

Sing that the day is done. 
Night-time has put the sunshine out. 

Sleep, my own baby one! 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to cuUnary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps ; for menus, $i . Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1134. — Subscriber, Xenia, Ohio: 
"Suggestions for a formal banquet to be 
served to fifty people in June. Something for 
menu and decorations suggestive of the army 
and navy." 

Menu and Decorations Suggesting 
Army and Navy 

Let the menu cards be decorated 
with flags at the top and cannon balls 
and muskets at the bottom. Precede 
the menu with one of the following 
quotations: "I have done the State 
some service, and they know 't," 
Othello; "He jests at scars that never 
felt a wound," Romeo and Juliet; 
"You have done well by water. And 
you by land," Antony and Cleopatra; 
"A scar nobly got, or a noble scar, is 
a good livery of honor," All's Well. 

Cannon-balls and anchors of white 
flowers in a mound of feathery ferns 
would make an appropriate centre- 
piece. Small flags could be added at 
pleasure. A centre-piece composed en- 
tirely of red, white, and blue flowers, 
each color disposed in a mass or all 
intermingled, would also be suitable. 
Forget-me-nots, bachelor buttons, or 
wild iris, would supply blue, though 
not, in each case, the exact shade of 
the national color. 

Menu 

Consomm6 with Vermicelli. 
Cream of Spinach. 

"Under which king, Begonian? speak, or die!" 

2 Henry IV. 



Radishes. Celery. OUves. 

"A brittle glory." 

Richard II. 

Fish Croquettes (Ball Shape, Disposed Cannon- 
ball Fashion), Sauce Tartare. 
Buttered Potato Balls 
with Chopped Parsley. 

"We'll have a swashing and a martial outside, 
As many other mannish cowards have." 

As You Like It. 
Bacon. Rolls. 
Braised Sweetbreads. 
Peas. 

"But who is this, what thing of sea or land?" 

Milton. 

Broiled Medallions of Beef, 

Tomato Sauce, 

or Roast Ribs of Beef au Jus. 

Baked Bananas, Currant Jelly Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Cress Salad. 

"The fat ribs of peace 
Must by the hungry now be fed upon." 

King John 

Individual Strawberry Bombe Glace 

or 

Strawberry Cup with Vanilla Ice-cream. 

"As much valor is to be found in feasting as in fighting." 

Cheese. Lettuce Hearts. Hardtack. 

"Ay me! what perils do environ 
The man that meddles with cold iron I " 

Staler. 

Raisins. Nuts. Coffee. 

" Oh, 'tis excellent 
To have a giant's strength!" 

Measure jar Measure. 



Query 1135. — E. M. A., White Bear, Minn.: 
"Kindly tell how to use Irish moss in cooking." 

Irish Moss Blanc-mange (M. G. 

Buckley) 
Soak half a cup of moss in cold water 
fifteen minutes. Pick over and put 



56 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



on to cook in one cup and a half of 
boiling water and salt, and let simmer 
thirty minutes in a double boiler, till 
the moss is thick as cream. Strain 
carefully into two cups of milk (do 
not rub the moss through the strainer), 
and let boil until it thickens w^hen 
dropped on a cool plate. Strain and 
flavor with half a teaspoonful of va- 
nilla, and pour into small cups that 
have been wet in cold water. Set 
away to harden, and, when hard, serve 
with cream and sugar. If the flavor 
of the moss be disHked, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda 
may be cooked with the moss and 
water. 

Query 1136. — Mrs. J. W., Amsterdam, 
N.Y. : "Menus for crystal wedding anniver- 
sary." 

Menus for Crystal Wedding 

Anniversary 

I. 

Iced Bouillon. 

Olives. Salted Cashew Nuts. 

Galantine of Veal, Chaudfroid Style. 

Salmon Salad. Salad Rolls. 

Fruit Cup or Cup St. Jacques. 

Assorted Cakes. 

Fruit Punch. 

II. 

Lettuce and Medallions of Chicken, 

Chaudfroid Style. 

Bread-and-Butter Sand^^'iches. 

Olives. Salted Pecan Nuts. 

Vanilla Ice-cream in Cups, 

Raspberry Sauce. 

Sponge Drops. Macaroons. Meringues. 

Iced Tea, Spiced. 

III. 

Sweetbread, Veal and Cucumber Salad 

(Mayonnaise with Whipped Cream). 

Parker House Rolls. 

Olives. Salted Pistachio Nuts. 

Vanilla Ice-cream and Raspberry Sherbet, 

Moulded together in Brick Moulds. 

Waldorf Triangles. Angel Cake. 

Fruit Punch. 

IV. 

Coffee Ice-cream. 

Pineapple Sherbet. Assorted Cakes. 

Tea Punch. 



Query 1137. — Subscriber, New York City: 
Recipes for chicken and ham mousse, egg 
timbales with bread sauce, lemon cheese 
cakes, cheese sauce, and cheese balls." 

Ham Mousse 

Have a thick slice from the best side 
of the centre of a raw ham. Remove 
all fat and stringy portions, and let 
the ham soak overnight in cold water. 
Change the water once, at least, on 
leaving it for the night, and use a large 
quantity of water compared with the 
size of the piece of ham. Drain the 
ham, wipe dry, and scrape the pulp 
from the fibre with a sharp knife. 
There should be a generous half-pound 
of pulp. Eight ounces (one cup) is 
needed for the dish, and a small por- 
tion will not pass through the sieve, 
and needs be allowed for. Pound the 
ham pulp with a pestle in a mortar 
or wooden bowl. When smooth, add 
the beaten whites of two eggs, and 
pound the whole until again smooth. 
Have ready a sauce made of two table- 
spoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika, and one cup of chicken 
stock (broth seasoned with onion, car- 
rot, celery, bay leaf, etc.). When the 
sauce is cold, beat this smoothly into 
the ham mixture, and press the whole 
through a puree sieve. Beat in the 
yolks of two eggs, beaten very light, 
and one cup of cream, beaten firm. 
Add more seasoning, if needed, and 
turn the mixture into a thoroughly 
buttered mould. Cook, set on several 
folds of paper and surrounded with 
hot water, until firm to the touch 
(twenty-five or thirty minutes) . Serve 
with a pint of sauce made of chicken 
broth and roux in the usual propor- 
tions, flavored wdth two tablespoon- 
fuls of Madeira. Do not add the 
wine until after the sauce is taken from 
the fire. Or serve with brown tomato 
sauce. Prepare chicken mousse in the 
same manner, except that, being un- 
salted, soaking is not called for. Simply 



Queries and Answers 



57 



scrape the pulp from the fibre and pro- 
ceed. 

Egg Timbales 

Beat six eggs without separating 
the whites and yolks. Add a scant 
teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, a 
teaspoonful of chopped parsley, twenty 
drops of onion juice, and one cup and 
a half of rich milk. Mix thoroughly, 
and pour into well-buttered timbale 
moulds. Cook, set on folds of paper, 
surrounded by hot w^ater, until the 
centres are firm. Turn from the 
moulds onto a hot platter, and sur- 
round with 

Bread Sauce 
Put half a cup of fine bread crumbs 
from the centre of a stale loaf, a peeled 
onion into which six cloves have been 
pushed, half a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and paprika, and one pint of milk 
over the fire in a double boiler. Cover, 
and let cook about one hour. Remove 
the onion and cloves. Add two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and beat thor- 
oughly. Then pour over the timbales. 
Half a cup of coarse bread crumbs 
(centre of loaf), browned in three or 
four tablespoonfuls of butter made 
hot in a frying-pan, may be sprinkled 
over the whole. 

Lemon Cheese Cakes 
Press enough cottage cream, or 
Neuchatel cheese, through a colander 
or potato ricer to make one cup and 
a half of cheese. Add one-third a cup 
of sugar, the grated rind and juice of 
a lemon, two tablespoonfuls of cream, 
one tablespoonful of melted butter, 
one-fourth a cup of sherry wine, and 
four eggs, beaten without separating 
the whites and yolks. At pleasure, 
half a cup of currants and sliced citron 
may be added. Bake in very small 
tins, lined with rich pastry. Cream 
may be used instead of the wine, and 
pounded almonds instead of the lemon 
rind and juice. 



Lemon Cheese Cakes No. 2 
Put half a cup of butter, two cups 
of sugar, the grated rind and juice of 
three lemons, four whole eggs and the 
yolks of two more, and half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt into a double boiler, and 
stir and cook until the mixture becomes 
smooth and thickens to the consistency 
of honey. Store in fruit jars or jelly 
tumblers, or use at once. To use, 
reheat over hot water; add fine maca- 
roon or sponge cake crumbs to secure 
a thicker consistency, and turn into 
hot pastry, baked on small inverted 
tins. Prick the pastry before baking, 
that it may rise uniformly. 

Cheese Sauce 

(For boiled fish, macaroni, cauliflower, aspara- 
gus, etc., and for hominy, macaroni, and rice 
croquettes.) 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Cook in it a tablespoonful of flour and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika. Add one cup of milk 
or well-seasoned chicken or veal broth, 
and stir until boiling. Then set over 
hot water, and beat in from one-fourth 
to one-half a pound of grated cheese. 
Add salt, mustard and cayenne, at pleas- 
ure. When the cheese is melted, beat 
in the yolk of an egg, and serve as soon 
as the egg is set. 

Cheese Balls 
Beat the whites of three eggs until 
dry. Then mix into them one-fourth 
a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, 
mixed with one cup and a half of com- 
mon factory cheese (grated). vShape 
the mixture into small balls, roll in 
sifted cracker crumbs, and fry in deep 
fat to a delicate straw color. The 
balls will cook in about forty seconds. 
Drain on soft paper, and serve at once. 



Query 1138. — L. T., Funchal, Madeira: 
"Recipe for deviled chicken. Should think 
it no more difficult than potted meats which 
I now prepare. Also recipe for pin money- 
mangoes. " 



58 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Deviled Chicken 

Prepare the same as potted chicken, 
seasoning very highly with cayenne, 
black pepper, and mustard. 

Melon Mangoes, Pin Money 
Style 
We are unable to give the exact 
recipe for these delicious pickles. Try 
putting up a few mangoes by this rec- 
ipe, then add to or take from the va- 
rious ingredients given, to secure a 
result more nearly in harmony with 
your idea of what the mangoes should 
be. We shall put up some of these 
pickles this reason, and thereafter can 
give a more accurate recipe. Take 
any sort of melon, about two inches 
in length, and with a column cutter 
(or,, wanting this, use a sharp pen- 
knife) take out a round piece at the 
stem end, then remove the soft centre 
where the seeds are forming. Put the 
piece of melon removed from the end 
back in place, securing it with a bit 
of wooden tooth-pick. Make a brine 
of salt and water (a cup of salt to a 
gallon of water), and let the prepared 
melons remain in it over night. The 
next day drain several hotrrs. Then 
remove the piece from the end, and 
fill the melons with the following mixt- 
ure, and set into an agate kettle. 
Prepare a syrup in the proportion of 
one pint of sugar to three pints of cider 
vinegar. Pour this boiling hot over 
the melons. Let stand until next day. 
Then drain off the syrup, reheat, and 
pour it over the melons. Repeat this 
process three or four days. Then let 
the whole come to the boiling-point, 
and store in jars as canned fruit. 

Filling for Melon Mangoes 
For each eight or ten mangoes take 
one of the prepared melons. Chop 
rather fine, then add rather less than 
the same bulk, each, of cleaned dried 
currants and mixed mustard and cel- 
ery seed. The seeds should first be 



covered with boiling water and left 
fifteen minutes. Then drain thor- 
oughly, and mix with the currants and 
chopped melon. When storing the 
mangoes in the jars, add about a dozen 
and a half of tiny red peppers to the 
vinegar in each jar. For a softer 
pickle, cook the mangoes in weak vine- 
gar before pouring the syrup over them. 



Query 1139. — Mrs. W. A. D., Baltimore, Md. : 
"Kindly repeat a recipe for 'cauliflower au 
gratin,' published some time ago in the 
magazine. The recipe is not given in your 
cook-book. Kindly state in which number 
of the magazine it was originally published." 

Baked Cauliflower 

Boil a cauHflower, taking care that 
it be rather under than over done. 
Trim the stalk so that the cauliflower 
will stand level. Do not remove the 
tender leaves. Put in a well-buttered 
baking-dish that may be sent to the 
table, and dust with salt and black 
pepper. Have prepared a cup of sauce 
made of chicken broth. Add two table- 
spoonfuls of thick cream and one- 
fourth a cup of grated cheese (Ameri- 
can factory or Parmesan). Pour the 
sauce over the cauliflower to fill all 
the crevices. Sprinkle a layer of grated 
cheese over the whole, and bake in 
a rather quick oven ten or fifteen 
minutes. Substitute milk for chicken 
stock, if desired. This recipe was 
published in the August-September 
number for 1900. Buttered cracker 
crumbs sprinkled over the layer of 
cheese would improve the dish, and 
also change the name to cauliflower 
au gratin. 



Query 1140. — I. J. S., Hartford, Conn. 
Vegetarian menus for June." 

Vegetarian Menus, June 

Breakfast 

Cereal. Stewed Prunes. 

Scrambled Eggs. Dry Toast. 

Coffee. 



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DUFFY'S APPLE JUICE is pure APPLE JUICE uncontaminated by 
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ix 



_J 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Luncheon 

Hot Cheese Balls, Lettuce Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Strawberry Shortcake. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Asparagus on Toast. 

Egg-and-Lettuce Salad. 

Vanilla Ice-cream. 

Sponge Cake. Black Coffee. 

Breakfast 

Bananas. Cereal. Cream. 

Omelet with Peas. 

Almond Griddle-cakes. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Prune-and-Pecan Nut Salad. 

Oatmeal Biscuit. 

Baked Caramel Custard. 

Dinner 

Cream-of- Asparagus Soup. 

Macaroni Croquettes, Cheese Sauce. 

Strawberries, Cream. 

Black Coffee. 

Breakfast 

Evaporated Peaches, Stewed, Cream. 

Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Toasted. 

Doughnuts. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Succotash. 

Lettuce, Nut-and-Banana Salad. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Fruit Cocktail. 

Cheese Souffle. 

Cress, French Dressing. 

Bread Pudding wnth Raisins, Sabayon Sauce. 

Black Coffee. 



Query 1141. — C. M., Superior, Wis.: "Rec- 
ipe for tutti frutti. May all fruits, includ- 
ing oranges and bananas, be used?" 

Tutti Frutti 

We are in doubt as to just what dish 
is desired. We pubhsh recipe known 
under this name, as also under the 
name of "fruit melange." We have 
not prepared the dish, and do not vouch 
{See page xii.) 



She Quit 

But it was a Hard Pull 
It is hard to beheve that coffee will 



put a person in such a condition as it 
did a woman of Apple Creek, Ohio. 
She tells her own story : — 

"I did not believe coffee caused my 
trouble, and frequently said I liked it 
so well I would not quit drinking it, even 
if it took my life; but I was a misera- 
ble sufferer from heart trouble and 
nervous prostration for four years. 

' ' I was scarcely able to be around at 
all. Had no energy, and did not care 
for anything. Was emaciated, and 
had a constant pain around my heart, 
until I thought I could not endure it. 
For months I never went to bed ex- 
pecting to get up in the morning. I 
felt as though I was liable to die any 
time during the night. 

"Frequently I had nervous chills, 
and the least excitement would drive 
sleep away, and any little noise would 
upset me terribly. I was gradually 
getting worse, until, finally, one day 
it came over me; and I asked myself. 
What is the use of being sick all the 
time and buying medicine so that I 
can indulge myself in coffee ? 

"So I thought I would see if I could 
quit drinking coffee, and got some 
Postum Food Coffee to help nie quit. 
I made it strictly according to direc- 
tions, and I want to tell you that change 
was the greatest step in my life. It 
was easy to quit coffee because I had 
the Postum which I like better than 
I liked the old coffee. One by one the 
old troubles left, until now I am in 
splendid health, nerves steady, heart 
all right, and the pain all gone. Never 
have any more nervous chills, don't 
take any medicine, can do all my 
housework, and have done a great deal 
besides. 

"My sister-in-law, who visited me 
this summer, had been an invalid for 
some time, much as I was. I got her 
to quit coffee and drink Postum. She 
gained five pounds in three weeks, and 
I never saw such a change in any one's 
health." 

"There's a reason." 



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Your grocer sells Heinz Pure Malt Vine= 
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xi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



for its keeping qualities. All varieties 
of fruit are used, being put into the jar 
as they ripen. All fruit should be sound 
and clean. Hull the berries, peel 
peaches, plums, and the like, removing 
all stones. Begin with strawberries, 
then add cherries, and so continue. Pro- 
vide an earthen jar. With the fruit 
use its weight of sugar. Pour over 
the top a pint or more of the best al- 
cohol. It will rise and remain above 
the fruit to exclude the air. Cover 
the jar closely after each addition. 
Put in fruit, then sprinkle it with 
sugar, and continue until the in- 
gredients are used. The alcohol put 
in at first need not be added to, when 
fruit is added, but only when evapora- 
tion calls for it. 

Query 1142. — Subscriber: "Recipes for 
dishes suitable for invalids." 

Dishes Suitable for Invalids 
This query is rather indefinite; for 
the kind of dish needed by a consump- 
tive patient, a dish containing cream, 
oil, or some other form of fat, would 
certainly not be the one to prescribe 
to a person with deranged liver or 
kidneys. Asparagus could probably be 
eaten by most convalescent patients. 
If the digestion be normal, a consump- 
tive might have it dressed with any 
of the sauces usually accompanying 
the dish. The other class of patients 
designated should confine themselves 
to simply a seasoning of salt, with, 
perhaps, in some cases, a suspicion of 
butter. For the diabetic, yolks of 
eggs in profusion should enrich the 
sauce, and butter should not be spared. 
On account of the seeds, strawberries 
cannot be eaten by those whose di- 
gestion is delicate. For these crush 
{See page xiv.) 



Bread Dyspepsia 

The Digesting Element left out 
Bread Dyspepsia is common. It 
affects the bowels, because white bread 



is nearly all starch; and starch is di- 
gested in the intestines, not in the 
stomach proper. 

Up under the shell of the wheat 
berry, Nature has provided a curious 
deposit, which is turned into diastase 
when it is subjected to the saliva and 
to the pancreatic juices in the human 
intestines. 

This diastase is absolutely necessary 
to digest starch and turn it into grape 
sugar, which is the next form ; but that * 
part of the wheat berry makes dark 
flour, and the modern miller cannot 
readily sell dark flour, so Nature's 
valuable digester is thrown out, and 
the human system must handle the 
starch as best it can, without the help 
that Nature intended. 

Small wonder that appendicitis, peri- 
tonitis, constipation, and all sorts of 
trouble exist when we go so contrary 
to Nature's law. The food experts that 
perfected Grape-nuts Food, knowing 
these facts, made use in their experi- 
ments of the entire wheat and barley, 
including all the parts, and subjected 
them to moisture and long-continued 
warmth, which allows time and the 
proper conditions for developing the 
diastase outside of the human body. 

In this way the starchy part is trans- 
formed into grape sugar in a perfectly 
natural manner, without the use of 
chemicals or any outside ingredients. 
The little sparkling crystals of grape 
sugar can be seen on the pieces of 
Grape-nuts. This food, therefore, is 
naturally pre-digested ; and its use 
in place of bread will quickly correct 
the troubles that have been brought 
about by the too free use of starch in 
the food, and that is very common 
in the human race to-day. 

The effect of eating Grape-nuts ten 
days or two weeks, and the discontinu- 
ance of ordinary white, bread, is very 
marked. The user will gain rapidly in 
strength and physical and mental 
health. 

"There's a reason." 



xu 



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xiii 



The Boston Cookine-School Magfazine 



g- 



aga: 



and strain the berries, and use the pulp 
with gelatine and sugar as jelly, or 
sweeten the pulp, and use it as a sauce 
for blanc-mange or jellied rice (rice 
cooked in milk, strained, and mixed 
with whipped white of egg or cream). 

Vermicelli Millc Soup (for Children 
and Invalids) 
Cook half a cup of vermicelli in boil- 
ing salted water until tender. Drain, 
rinse in cold water, and add to a quart 
of milk, scalded over hot water. Add 
also half a teaspoonful of celery salt 
and the yolks of two eggs, beaten and 
diluted with two or three tablespoon- 
fuls of cream. Stir until the egg is set, 
then serve at once. 



Query 1143. — Subscriber, Dedham, Mass.: 
"Recipe for a rich, moist chocolate cake." 

German Brod Torte 

Pass through a sieve, ricer, or vege- 
table press enough cold boiled pota- 
toes to fill a cup twice. Chop fine 
enough blanched almonds to fill a cup. 
Sift together, three times, two cups of 
flour, two level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder, a scant half a teaspoonful of 
salt, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, and 
half a teaspoonful of cloves. Cream one 
cup of butter ; gradually beat in two 
cups of sugar, and one cup of grated 
chocolate (preferably sweet), then the 
beaten yolks of four' eggs, three-fourths 
a cup of milk, the potato, the flour 
mixture, the almonds, and, lastly, the 
whites of four eggs, beaten dry. Bake 
in a large tube pan in a moderate oven 
about forty-five minutes. When cold, 
spread with 

Chocolate Fudge Icing 
Melt two ounces of chocolate over 
hot water; add two cups of sugar and 
one cup of milk, and stir while grad- 
ually heating. Beat vigorously when 
the boiling-point is reached, then let 
cook to the soft-ball stage. Remove 
from the fire, add a teaspoonful of 
butter, and let stand until cold, then 
beat until creamy, and spread on the 



cake. AVhen of the consistency of 
thick molasses, the icing is ready to use. 
Properly made, this frosting remains 
soft and creamy. The cake is always 
light, moist, and rich. This cake and 
icing are much in demand at "The 
Loring School,'' Chicago. We publish 
the recipes (which we have tested) 
through the courtesy of this school. 



Query 1144. — Miss M. A. B., Natick, Mass.: 
' ' Recipe for fruit tapioca (pineapple and sliced 
peaches, with a good deal of pineapple juice)." 

Pineapple and Tapioca Sponge 
Scald one pint of grated pineapple 
(pulp and juice), stir in one-third a 
cup of any quick-cooking tapioca, set 
over hot water, and let cook, stirring 
occasionally, until the tapioca is trans- 
parent. It will take twenty minutes 
or longer. Add two -thirds a cup of 
sugar, the juice of a lemon, and, when 
eve nlv mixed, remove from the fire, 
and fold in the w^hites of two eggs, 
beaten dry. Serve hot or cold with 
whipped cream, sweetened a little 
before whipping. 

Tapioca Cream for Fruit 
Scald three cups of milk ; stir in one- 
third a cup of a quick-cooking tapioca, 
and let cook until transparent. Beat 
the 3^olks of two eggs ; add three-fourths 
a cup of sugar and a few^ grains of salt, 
and stir into the mixture. Let cook 
until the egg thickens, then remove 
from the fire, and beat in the whites 
of two eggs, beaten dn.-. 

¥od«strp7 disease fferms and fonl gtkaeB, the waste-pipes. 
-" '- ' " suspected spot snoold 



■inks, closets, cellars, and every 
b« rearularly purified with 




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D 



Sold in quart bottles enly, hj druggists and high-class grocers. 
An illustrated booklet with valuable saniUry hints mailed free. 
Addrtss HKNRY B. PLATT, 4a ClifE Street, N«w York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cookixg-School Magazine. 

xiv 



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EXTRACTS 



THE 

GROCER' 

is a busy man and hasn't 
time to tell people what 
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sells them what they 
order, so if you do not 
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fruit EXTRACTS it is 
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Comply with all Food Laws 




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They never disappoint in any way, but make cooking a real pleasure. Everything comes from 
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is the Range used and endorsed by the Boston, Providence, New York, and other leading 
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used in connection with a new French Sectional Top. No other range has it. ^Made with 
or without gas attachments. ^Manufactured and warranted by 

SMITH & ANTHONY COMPANY. 48-34 Union Street, BOSTON, MASS. 



When you write advertisers, please mention Thk Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XV ^ 



Book Reviews 



The Up-to-Date Waitress. By 
Janet M. Hill, author of "Salads, 
Sand\^'iches, and Chafing-dish Dain- 
ties," "Practical Cooking and Serv- 
ing," etc. i2mo. Illustrated. Cloth, 
extra. $1.50. Boston: Little, Brown 
&Co. 

The readers of this magazine have 
already had an opportunity to read 
some of the papers that compose this 
volume, as they have appeared in suc- 
cessive issues of the magazine in the 
past year or two. The author has pre- 
pared additioHctl chapters, and added 
more than fifty illustrations. These 
are now combined in an attractive, 
tasteful volume, with a handsome or- 
namental cover. 

The book, we beUeve, is the most 
complete and serviceable that has been 
written on this subject. All the various 
duties of the skilled waitress are treated 
in detail. The care of the dining-room, 
the setting of tables, and the launder- 
ing of table Hnen, the serving of meals, 
the preparation of certain dishes, the 
proper service of wines, etc., are not 
only carefully described, but also these 
topics are appropriately illustrated by 
half-tone engravings of the very things 
described. 

The book should be of immediate and 
more than passing interest, not only to 
waitresses, but to schools of domestic 



science and in every household where 
maids are employed. 

The InternationaIv Cook-book. By 
J \_ Alexander Filippini. 8vo. Washa- 

,ble binding. Price $4.80, net. New 
^A^York: Doubleday, Page & Co. 

\This is a large, comprehensive, and 
valuable work. In some respects it 
is unique. The author made a special 
trip around the world for the purpose 
of collecting material for this book, 
and he has thus enriched his work by 
hundreds of recipes never before pub- 
lished in English. There are nearly 
3,500 recipes in all. These are arranged 
in diary form, with a menu for each 
meal of every day in the year. The 
menus are conservative, and chosen 
with rare taste and judgment. The 
recipes are explicit. The memoranda 
for the meals of each day in the year 
are carefully calculated to be sufficient 
in quantity for six people, — an average 
that can be easily increased or dimin- 
ished. 

The author is an expert cook and a 
cuhnary authority. His book is en- 
tirely practical and reliable. It must 
prove to be an invaluable storehouse of 
information and helpfulness to cook 
and housekeeper. A genuine and sen- 
sible contribution to the art of cook- 
ery. 



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for the 




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xvi 



Advertisements 



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A charming little booklet containing 
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Ice-cream with strawberries, by Janet 
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cents. 

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY 
Box 2507 Little Falls, N.Y. 



Junket ,^ 

ke 

Cream 

with 
strawberries 










":^ 









'mas.- 



When you write advertisers, please mention Thk Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




BoYViLLE. By John E. Gunckel. 

i2mo. Illustrated. Cloth. Price 

75 Cents, net. Toledo, Ohio : The 

Toledo Newsboys' Association. 

This book is of interest to boys: it 
is also of concern to all those who have 
dealings with boys. It gives the result 
of one man's interest in the boys of his 
own city, — a man who beheves in a 
method of dealing with boys quite 
other than that of force. In short, 
he believes that ' 'the best way to correct 
wrong-doing is to prevent it, to warn 
a boy against the evil vices that tend 
to his ruin in later years, and that one 
way to prevent crime is to reward 
virtue." 

Those who have noted the name of 
Hon. Ben. B. I^indsey, of Denver, Col., 
and the accounts of his ways in the 
Juvenile Court of that city, will get 
an inkhng of the method herein de- 
tailed, for his success has been along 
the same self-governing plan as that of 
the Boyville Association of Toledo. 

The book deals with a problem vital, 
far-reaching, — one that confronts the 
thoughtful, philanthropic, patriotic 
citizen in every community of the land. 

President Roosevelt wrote an intro- 
duction to the book. 



Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book 

The well-known firm of Liebig Com- 
pany are pubHshing a new cook-book 
by Mrs. S. T. Rorer, who is certainly 
the leading authority on cooking in 
the United States to-day. This new 
cook-book of Mrs. Rorer 's is brimful 
of new ideas, contains sixty pages of 
up-to-date recipes, and describes how 
to serve dishes to please the eye as 
well as the taste. Don't go on in the 
old way. Try the modern way of 
cheaper, yet better, cooking. This 
book will show you how. All you 
have to do to get this fine, useful cook- 
book, absolutely free, is to send your 
address on a postal to Liebig's Extract 
of Meat Company, Ltd., 120 Hudson 
Street, New York. The book will be 
mailed you promptly. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xviii 



Advertisements 



HffiH 





'i MP'a :k\i ■ WN -iif m 3 



So easy to broil or 
bake in this range. No 
stooping — no hard work — a great back saver. 



^ The way to lower your fuel 
gas bills is not to quarrel with 
the Gas Company but to buy 
a Detroit Jewel Gas Range. 

Detroit Jewel Gas Ranges do perfect baking, broiling 
and cooking, help keep the kitchen cool, save work 
and worry — and do it with least gas consumption. 

Detroit Jewels are different. We can tell you only 
a little about them here — but if you will call on the 
dealer or at the office of the Gas Company and exam- 
ine Detroit Jewel Gas Ranges, comparing them 
point by point with any and all other ranges, you will 

see the how and why. That Detroit Jewel Gas 
Ranges save gas 

Is Not a Theory 

but a fact — proved by positive and convincing tests and experienced by hundreds of 
thousands of users. The logic of it will appeal to all intelligent housewives. 

It's in the construction of Detroit Jewels, of course. It's due partly to hav- 
ing double walls of steel, not single walls; to having a supply pipe of extra thickness 
so that all valves fit tight — cannot leak — and to the Jewel adjustable valves which can 
be quickly adjusted to your local gas pressure, so that you burn as much air as possible 
and as little gaS as possible — thus producing that blue flame — a sure indication of 
gas economy. It is due partly to the Jewel vacuum mixer, wherein the mixture of 
air and gas is made and a good deal to the Jewel star-shaped gas-saving removable 
burners, which spread the flame under the cooking utensil, and cannot waste gas. 

There are more than a score of other exclusive points including the Jewel 

Patented Inter-locking 
Removable Linings 

and the one-piece, polished steel exterior wall, without 
seam or joint, which contribute towards gas economy. 
These are just so many powerful, potent reasons why 
you should buy Detroit Jewel Gas Ranges. Better 
get a Detroit Jewel Gas Range at once. 

FREE — Send two-cent stamp for a copy of our handsome 
little booklet, "Cooking by Gas." Contains numerous choice 
receipes by famous cooks. Tells the many advantages of gas 
fuel. Write for a copy. It is free. Address Dept. H. 

Detroit Stove Works 



DETROIT 



"Lareest Stove Plant in tht World 



CHICAGO 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xix 



Advertisements 




A-Little Dutch 
:£r-(3irJ on Ever)/ PacKac 




MALT 

BREAKFAST 

FOOD 

The Best Summer 
Cereal. 

There is ju^ one cereal mak- 
ing more perfed: use of wheat 
than any other, richer in flavor, 
more perfedly nourishing, mo^ 
easily digested. 

That's Malt Breakfast Food. 

Its exclusive malting process makes 
all that true, makes it be^ for. grown 
folks, for children, for invalids. The 
be^ summer cereal because then this 
ease of digestion is essential. 

Try it. Read this offer. , 

Buy at the grocer's, for that is the 
easieft way to deliver it. Get the genuine, 
with the "Little Dutch Girl" on the 
package. If he has none, wnrite to us. 
We will see that you get Malt Breakfa^ 
Food, wherever you live. We will pay 
full price for the empty package if you 
want your money back. Two full 
pounds to the package (makes 16 lbs. of 
food), 15c., or 20c. we^ of the Rockies 
and in Canada. Address Dept. I. 

The MALTED CEREALS CO., 
Burlington. Vt. 



The Cost of Food 

What the Average Family pays for the 
Necessaries of Life 

Although the price of nearly all 
kinds of food has risen within a few 
years, it is practically impossible to 
ascertain the exact increased cost of liv- 
ing, says the World's Work. The 
Bureau of Labor Statistics at Wash- 
ington has been trying to do this. 
For the purpose of its study of the 
diet of working people, it inquired 
into the habits of 13,000 persons who 
live in the cities in 33 States. From 
this study was constructed an "aver- 
age" family, consisting of 5.31 persons. 
The family income is $827.19 a year, 
of which $326.90 is spent for food. 
This is an average of a little less than 
$6.30 a week, or 90 cents a day for the 
whole family, — about 17 cents a day 
for a person. The yearly bill of fare 
runs thus : — 

Food of the Average Working Family 
PER Year 

Articles. Cost. 

Fresh beef, 493 pounds $50.05 

Salt beef, 52 pounds 5.26 

Fresh pork, 114 pounds 14.02 

Salt pork, 110 pounds 13-89 

Other meat 9.78 

Poultry, 67 pounds 9.49 

Fish, 80 pounds 8.01 

Butter, 117 pounds 28,76 

Milk, 354 quarts 21.32 

Bggs, 85 dozen 16.79 

Flour and meal, 680 pounds . . . 16 76 

Bread, 253 loaves 1244 

Sugar, 268 pounds . 15.76 

Potatoes, 15 bushels 12.93 

Other vegetables 18.85 

Coffee, 47 pounds . 10.74 

Tea 5.30 

Rice, 26 pounds 2.05 

Cheese, 16. pounds 2.62 

Lard, 84 pounds 9.35 

Molasses, 4 gallons 1.69 

Fruit 16.52 

Vinegar, pickles, etc 4.12 

Other foods 8.40 



Gladys: "How do you hke Henry 
James's style?" Marie: ''Oh, I don't 
know. I've never had him make any- 
thing for me." — Chicago Record Herald. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XX 



Advertisements 



What to 
Eat in Hot 
Weather 



URING the summer months this is a problem that 
has to be solved almost daily, and many a house- 
keeper will welcome a suggestion, if only for an 
occasional meal. 

Hot meats on a hot day are both unhealthy and 
undesirable. Cold meats and salads are far preferable, but even 
cold meat means cooking, and a hot fire is just what you most 
want to avoid. 

But there is a very simple way of escape, and here it is : 
Eat Squire's Boiled Ham. 

The cooking is done in our immense packing plant at Cam- 
bridge, Mass. Only the finest hams are used, and we have 
thousands to select from. The curing is by our own private 
process, used by us for three generations, and the cooking is done 
amid surroundings as inviting as in your own kitchen. 

Each ham is double-wrapped in air-tight, germ-proof parch- 
ment paper, and you can buy from your dealer either a whole 
ham or a single slice. The meat is moist, sweet, tender, and of 
a flavor quite unlike that of ordinary ham. A sandwich made 
with it is good beyond description. 

Don't fail to try this ham. If it happens that your dealer 
does not sell it, please send us his name, and we will see that 
you are supplied. Our name is on every wrapper. 

JOHN P. SQUIRE & COMPANY 

BOSTON, MASS. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Selecting 
Wedding 
Gifts 

As the mind turns to silver 
in choosing presents for the 
wedding so should the eye 
seek the name and brand 

M ROGERS BROS: 

"Silver Plate that Wears." 
By this mark only can 
you distinguish the 
original Rogers ware 
(first made in 1847) 
and assure yourself 
of the best in quality, 
the finest in finish, 
the handsomest in 
design of any silver 
plate made, no matter ^ ^ 
where pUichased. * I 

For sale by leading 
dealers everywhere. Our 
catalogue "|T-8 " will prove 
helpfulin selection of designs 
^, Send for it. 

V MERIDEN BRITANNIA CO. 



/ 



(luternatioual Silver Co. Successor) 

Meriden, Conn. 

NEW YORK. CHICAGO. SAN FRA.NCISCO. 
HAMILTON, CANADA. 



;^. 



Outdoor Mushroom Culture 

Few Places in the Country where it is 
Possible Commercially 

After a thorougli investigation of 
the possibilities of outdoor mushroom 
culture, the Bureau of Plant Industry 
announces that in this country few 
locaHties exist where this can be made 
commercially possible, owing to the 
wide range of temperature and large 
variation in moisture conditions that 
normally occur. It is thought that 
the only favorable regions for mush- 
room culture out-of-doors are in Cali- 
fornia, at Eureka and San Francisco. 
One of the results of the Department 
of Agriculture's study of the mush- 
room industry has been the develop- 
ment of a new and scientific method 
of producing mushroom spawn, which 
is now employed by a number of Amer- 
ican firms on a commercial scale. 
About fifty thousand bricks were sold 
in 1904, and last year the amount 
increased to several hundred thousand. 
A noticeable feature of the mush- 
rooms produced by the pure spawn 
method of the Department is their 
evenness of size, weight, solidity, and 
tenderness. 

A writer in the American Florist de- 
clares that he has raided mushrooms in 
quantities from such spawn which 
average one-quarter pound in weight, 
which size is attained without the loss 
of tenderness. 



Her Thought 



The castle clung to the mountain, 
And looked on the vale below. 

Beneath, it was green with olives; 
Above, it was white with snow. 

She looked on castle and mountain, 
And olives and snow and skies, 

Till, bom of her maiden fancy, 

A thought gleamed bright in her eyes. 

I bent to hear her express it. 
Expectant and, breathing hard. 

She murmured, "Wouldn't that make a 
Remarkable postal card?" 

New Orleans Times -Democrat. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School, Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 



The Secret 

is in 



the Jar 

The real secret of successful 
home preserving lies in the jar. No 
mati:er how correct the recipe, or 
how faithfully followed, loss cf 
good fruit and vegetables is certain 
unless you use a perfect jar. The 
ATLAS Mason is a perfect jar— to use 
it is to insure the keeping of every 
ounce of choice fruits or vegetables 
which you prepare for preserving. 

Don't ask your grocer merely for 
a Mason jar — Mason is not enough. 
There are good and bad Masons, 
because the name is no longer pro- 
tected, and any manufacturer can 
make Mason jars. Remember that 
the jar you want is the 




ATU 




ATLAS MdSOn jars are made by machinery from high-grade 
glass, and are extra strong, and of uniform thickness. The 
dangerous weak point in common jars is the top — the part 
that screws into the cap. Cheap jars are invariably weak at 
this point and dangerous to use. The top of every Atlas jar 
is finished smooth — hence it seals airtight. 

A WIDE MOUTH JAR 

called the ATLAS SpBCidl MaSOd makes it possible to preserve large 
fruit whole. The illustration shows the perfect condition of 
fruit put up in this jar, and the ease with which the jar is 
emptied. The wide mouth is made only in ATLAS jars. 
Another improvement is a Simplex Glass Cap — it fits any 
Mason jar, old or new, and is preferred by many to the metal 
cap. Ask your grocer for it. 

PRESERVING RECIPES FREE 
A valuable book will be sent free to any woman sending 
her grocer's name and stating if he sells Atlas jars. 
HAZEL-ATLAS GLASS CO^ Wheeling, W. Va. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



There are Forty Ways of 
Serving 

Welchs 

GrapeJiuce 

The hot, thirsty season brings with 
it a demand for cooling drinks and 
frozen desserts. Fortunate the home 
that is amply supplied with Welch's 
Grape Juice and the Welch Book of 
Recipes. A drink, punch, frappe or 
dessert made from this purest, rich- 
est and most delicately flavored of all 
grape juices brings a satisfaction not 
to be derived from any other source. 

You can get Welch's Grape Juice from any 
good druggist or grocer. We will send you the 
Kecipe Book free. Sample 3-ounce bottle by 
mail, 10 cents. 

Welcb Grape Juice Co. 

West! ield, N. Y. 




FOOD MADE WITH 

Mrs. LINCOLN'S 

BAKING POWDER 

Is finer grained, iweetcr, mora 
healthful, and keeps mobt 
longer than that raiaed bj the 
more rapid action of powdwi 
containing other acida. 



Grocers 



It 



Arm MANY vfARt* wwm m c e,! 

AM OONVINOED THAT A PURI OKtAM or / 
TMTAfl aAKIN6 rOWOER It THI 
OUIOK LIAVENIN^ AGENT, AND M Aj 
WHOliaOME FOOD ADJUNCT* 

I «UAJUNTEE THATTHIt POWOIMij 
MMARED AFTER MY FORMUU, COth ^ 
TAMa ONLY THE HIOHEtT roaWIU 
OF CREAM OF TARTAR AND •»• , 
OARaONATC OF SODA, WITH THE tMAU* 
UT PERCENTAGE OF CORN tTARCN 
NtOtaaARY FOR !TS PERFECT KEEFINA. 
At kONO AS MY SIONATUREJlRffAR* 
ON THESE LAtELS, HOUSEKEEFERftMAY^ 
N aURt THAT THIS FORMUUk WtU ■■ 
MUOWtO IN THE MANUFACTURS Of . 
VMM aAkHMPOWOU. 



«fl»Mik '^•THM tiMsm's taam i 



Vm iMvlat whhMtMit. UtxjJ. 



More Eating than Seeing 
George Ade, the humorist and play- 
wright, told a story recently of a farmer 
who went to a large city to see the 
sights. The rural visitor engaged a 
room at a hotel, and, before retiring, 
asked the clerk about the hours for 
dining. 

"We have breakfast from six to 
eleven, dinner from eleven to three, 
and supper from three to eight," ex- 
plained the clerk. 

"Wa-al, say," inquired the farmer, 
in surprise, "what time air I goin' ter 
git to see ther town?" — Jtidge. 



A gentleman went into a restaurant 
and ordered a plate of soup. After 
a long wait, the waiter brought it in, 
and placed it before the diner. After 
examining it, he said to the waiter, 
' ' WTiat do you call this stuff ? " " Bean 
soup, sir," replied the waiter. "Yes, 
I know it's been soup; but what is it 
now ? ' ' — Titbits. 



Marjorie had been given some hard 
peppermint candies; and, after hold- 
ing one in her mouth for a few minutes, 
she ran to her mother, and cried, "O 
mother, I swallowed that candy!" 
"Never mind," said her mother, "it 
will not hurt you." "Yes," I know, 
said Marjorie; "but I lost the use of 
it." — Selected. 

Reception at Providence, R.I., 
March ii, to Lieutenant-Gov- 
ernor Nelson A. Miles. 

Oysters on Shell. . 
Sauterne. 
Printaniere Royal, Bread Sticks. 
Radishes. Olives. Celery 

Fillet of Beef, Mushroom Sauce. 

Champagne. 

Delmonico Potatoes. French Peas. 

Roman Punch. 

Apollinaris. 

Broiled Chicken. Tomato Salad. 

Cigarettes. 

Fancy Cream. Fancy Cake. 
Coffee. 
Cigars. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxiv 



Advertisements 




"For the 
Love of 
the 
Wheat" 



The "June Bride," radiant in roses and wedding gown, is the 
poet's picture of perfect bliss. Her cup of happiness is filled to the 
brim and running over. All the world tosses bouquets at her feet and 
wishes her ""^ bon voyaged Life seems to her one glad, sweet song. 

Into this dream of bliss there steals some day the demon of indi- 
gestion — and then domestic discord. A little bad cooking and a 
little indigestion will sow dragons' teeth in Fields Elysian. 

Happy the June bride who knows Shredded Wheat, — the 
purest product of sunshine and soil, ready-cooked, ready to serve, a 
delight to the palate, a soothing comforter to jaded stomachs. It is 
made of the choicest wheat, cleaned, cooked, drawn into fine, porous 
shreds, and baked. It is not only delicious for breakfast with milk or 
cream, but with it many dainty and palatable dishes may be made in 
combination with strawberries, creamed vegetables, or meats. 

Triscuit is the Shredded Whole Wheat Wafer. Better than 
bread for toast. Delicious with butter, cheese, or preserves. 

The "Vital Question " Cook Book is sent free. 

THE NATURAL FOOD 
COMPANY 

Niagara Falls, N.Y. " It's all in the Shreds" 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 

XXV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




"HEART-SHAPED" 
WAFFLE IRONS 

bake dainty waffles, shaped as above shown. 
Other irons have cogs like No. I in 

diagram and burn the waffle where cogs 

meet, leaving it half-cooked at other places. 

Heart-Shaped Irons have cogs like No. 2, 
producing uniform 
baking. Patent 
grease duct and de- 
tachable joint ensures 
cleanliness. 




Price $1.00 

Express . .50 

Ask your Hardware dealer, or write 

ALFRED ANDRESEN & CO. 

Dept. C 17 

1308 Washington Avenue, S. 

Minneapolis, Minn. 





reezea 



This famous wheel dasher 
enables you to make in 
your own home cream as 
smooth and rich as the 
hand-made kind which the 
most-skilled confectioners 
produce only after continuous paddling. 
Works in part of cream at a time, lift- 
ing and aerating it — increasing bulk 
and improving quality. 

The makers of the Lightning, Gem, Blizzard and 
American Twin incorporate these other exclusive 
features in all their freezers — automatic twin scra- 
pers, removing frozen particles sooa as formed; 
durable pails with electric welded wire hoops that 
cannot fall off; and drawn steel can bottoms that 
cannot leak, break loose or fall out. 

Booklet, "Frozen Sweets," 
by Mrs. Rorer, FREE. 

North Bros. Mfg. Co., Philadelpbia 





Nothing else will take the place of 
good cheer and laughter at meals or 
any other time in the home. There 
is a vital connection between ami- 
ability and digestion, between good 
cheer and assimilation. Laughter is 
the best friend the liver has, and de- 
pression, or melancholia, its worst en- 
emy. Numerous experiments have 
shown that mirth and cheerfulness 
stimulate the secretion of the gastric 
juice, and are powerful aids to diges- 
tion. Yet, knowing this, many of us 
sit as gloomy and absorbed at the table 
as at a funeral. In many homes 
scarcely a word is spoken at meals, out- 
side of requests for an article of food. 

The meal hour ought to mean some- 
thing besides supplying a mere animal 
function. The bell which calls the fam- 
ily to the table ought to be the signal 
for a good time generally, when all 
cares should be thrown off and every- 
body appear at his best. It ought to 
signalize the time for mirth and laugh- 
ter. It ought to be looked forward 
to by the members of the family as 
the recess or nooning is looked for- 
ward to by pupils in school, as a let-up 
from the strenuous life. — Orison Swett 
Marden, in Success Magazine. 



Professor Maria Mitchell was once 
ordered beer by her physician as a 
tonic. On the way to visit her sister, 
Mrs. Joshua Kendall, of Cambridge, 
Mass., she stopped at a saloon (it was 
before the no-license regime), and 
bought a bottle of beer, which she 
asked her brother-in-law to open for 
her. The Mitchell family spoke the 
"plain" language among themselves. 
"Where did thee get it, Maria?" 
questioned her sister. "At the saloon 
on the corner," replied Miss Mitchell, 
serenely. "Why, Maria, doesn't thee 
know respectable women don't go into 
such places?" "Oh," said Miss Mitch- 
ell, in the manner of one who has done 
all that could be required, "I -told the 
man he ought to be thoroughly ashamed 
of his traffic." 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-Schooi. Magazine. 

xxvi 



Advertisements 



MELLIN'S FOOD 



For the 




**Man*s 'work is from sun to sun. 
But xooman's loork is ne'oer done." 

MARY RYMERS 

A Mellin's Food Girl. 

MELLIN'S FOOD is really an assurance of healthy, happy child- 
hood, and robust manhood and womanhood, for proper feeding in 
infancy lays a foundation of good health upon which, later on, 
strong men and women are developed ; not only strong physically, 
but strong mentally, for the mind is dependent on the body. 
Therefore see to it that the infant's food is right, /. e., use 
MELLIN'S FOOD. Send for a free sample for your baby. 



Mellin's Food Company* 



Boston* Mass. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 



XXVll 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



^e Drink 

OLD GRIST MILL 

WHEAT COFFEE 

Becsfuse it -tastes good 

and it 

Makes us Strong. 

Why don t you try it? 





UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 



In camp, picnic, or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
one deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
cheese. Send for book of 4j prize receipts. 

WM. VNDERWOOD CO.» BOSTON, MA8S« 



Duffy's Apple Juice, 1842 

It has long been known that the 
apple contains all of the essential ele- 
ments of food. The free use of apples 
is recommended in the best works on 
hygiene. Physicians have urged the 
eating of apples at night, because they 
supply food that is easily digested and 
allay hunger during the many hours 
of sleep. 

If the juice of apples be expressed 
when the fruit is fresh, little remains 
but ash, the juice containing all of 
the essential elements of nourishing 
food. Duffy's Apple Juice, 1842, con- 
tains these elements. Without alco- 
hol, the juice is rendered pure and 
wholesome by clarifying, sterilizing, 
and carbonating. It is agreeable to 
the most delicate stomach. 

An eminent medical authority says 
of this product: "I find your Apple 
Juice to contain malic acid, acetic 
acid, glycerine, potash, Hme, and mag- 
nesia, — all present in small quanti- 
ties, but in a natural union so perfect 
as to produce an ideal, non-alcoholic 
beverage. These are the elements upon 
which the brain, the bones, and the 
muscles are nourished. Duffy's Apple 
Juice, 1842, supplies the blood with a 
greater abundance of life's actual needs 
than any other of the fluid products 
of the garden or orchard." No other 
beverage is so agreeable to the palate 
and the stomach as Duffy's Apple Juice, 
1842. Carbonating this product im- 
parts liveliness and sparkle that are 
delectable. 

The processes employed in the pro- 
duction of Duffy's Apple Juice, 1842, 
have overcome every difficulty, pre- 
serving the indescribable flavor of the 
apple in a clarified^beverage, without 



/hese trade-mark crlssc^oas lines on every package. 



Glut 

BARIiE 

Perfect Breakfast 
PANSY FLOUR>or 
Unlike all o»er 
For book 
FARWELL & RHIN 




its 



AID 



STALS, 

•rt Health Cereals. 
LPa#r% Cake and Biscuit. 

(odsV Ask Grocers. 
imp%, write 
tertown.N.Y.. U.S.A. 



When you write advertisere, please mention Thb Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxviii 



Advertisements 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Darius Eddy Invented Refrigerators in 1847 

That is why the name 

EDDY 

is a household word. 
For fifty-nine years it has been on 

The Best 
Refrigerators 

ever made; refrigerators that have given 
perfect satisfaction, stood every test, and 
are in every way just as represented. 

Manufactured by 

D. EDDY Sl sons CO., 
Boston, Mass. 

For Sale by 

The Best Dealers — Everywhere. 

Send for Illustrated Catalogue — Free. 



Quilted 
Mattress Pads 



^ Money spent wisely means comfort 
and pleasure to the spender. You 
go to bed to rest. Quilted Mattress 
Pads will make your bed comfortable 
as well as keep yours and baby's bed 
in a perfect sanitary condition. 

^The cost is small, and when 
washed they are as good as new. 

^Ask your dry goods dealer. 



EXCELSIOR QUILTING COMPANY 

15 Laight Street, New YorK, N.Y. 



alcohol, and rendering it more agree- 
able to the taste than any form of raw 
juice by a charge of carbonic acid 
gas. This gas is peculiarly grateful 
to the taste and beneficial to the stom- 
ach, while it in no way overcomes 
the dehcious flavor of the apple. It 
rather emphasizes that flavor, render- 
ing Duffy's Apple Juice, 1842, a spark- 
ling and satisfying beverage, suitable 
for banquets and all social gatherings. 



Greek Bakers change Fuel 

New Bread-making Methods result in 
General Saving 

At th? suggestion of the Princess 
Sophia the ancient custom of baking 
bread in Greece is being discontinued, 
and the ovens are being remodelled 
on a more modem plan. In the old 
ovens a fire of branches is kindled in 
the compartment where the bread is 
baked, and one of ordinary wood in 
that beneath. When the oven is suffi- 
ciently heated, the brushwood and 
cinders are raked out, and the bread 
put in in its place. The Princess is 
president of the Society for the Pro- 
tection of Forests, and it is in the in- 
terest of this society that her royal 
highness has labored to substitute 
coke and other fuel for wood. There 
are in Athens alone about 200 bakers' 
ovens, and at least 25 of them have 
aheady been made over. The bakers 
have been persuaded to this step by 
arguments of economy. By the old 
system 80 cents' worth of wood was 
required to bake 700 pounds of bread, 
while the necessary amount of coke 
can be purchased for 40 cents. The 
bakers pay for the coke about i cent 
for 2.82 potmds. 




DAINTY 

HOUSEKEEPERS 

PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POUSH. 

Joseph Diion Crucible Cojipaajr, 
Jersey City, N. J 



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XXX 



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VOICES OF NATURE 

By Lucia W. ELames 

I list to the wind soft sighing 

Through leaves of the pine-tree tall, 

And, deep in the heart of the wildwood. 

To the pewee's plaintive call ; 

To the whip-poor-will's low moaning 

Across the fields at night, 

When the last bright hue of sunset 

Is fading from our sight. 

I hark to the weeping of waters 

Shed on a thirsty land. 

And, oft, to the dull boom of breakers 

Upon the white sea-sand. 

To wind, to wave, and to bird-song. 

To flutter of leaves in the fall. 

But, ah, in my heart there is sounding 

The saddest refrain of all. 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. XI. 



AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 



No. 2. 



i^^^HH 


•^»p,»J^Ht::: on DnLfln jpi; J!.Llzi^ 


::fc "^mi 





Nurses' Homes 



Operating Room 



Newton Hospital, Massachusetts 



A Modern Hospital Kitchen 

By Mary M. Riddle 



IT not infrequently happens that 
that which is of the most vital 
importance is last to receive at- 
tention. 

It is too often the case that the 
householder builds and equips every 
other part of his house, and puts what 
remains of good or ill into his kitchen. 

A generous benefactor of a hospital 
naturally considers the gift of an elab- 
orate operating room, with its ornate 
display of glass and brass and marble, 
or laboratories where scientific re- 
searches may be carried on, or memorial 
windows to commemorate the work 
and influence of a friend or relative, 



before the domestic needs of the in- 
stitution. 

The Newton Hospital was no ex- 
ception to the general rule. For many 
years it expanded and enlarged and 
extended its work in all departments 
save the domestic. Its kitchen, which 
was built to accommodate the work for 
a family of twenty, was compelled 
many times to provide for one hundred 
and twenty. 

It remained for the women of Newton, 
with a characteristic ability for details, 
to discover the need, and at once 
procure means of relief, to the end that 
we have to-dav the Harriet Gould 








S I* 



;^-- 



Exterior View of" the Kitchen 




One of the Storerooms 



A Modern Hospital Kitchen 



63 



Paine Domestic Building, containing a 
model kitchen, which, owing to the 
architects and the Ladies' Hospital Aid 
Association, will be suiScient to meet 
the needs of the hospital for many 
future years. 

Owing to the topography of the land 
and the location of adjoining buildings, 
it seemed a problem to so place it that 
it should in no way overshadow the 
hospital wards or have its odors wafted 
into them by the prevailing winds. By 
reason of much study on the part of 
those having the matter in charge 
(architects and others), these two great 
dangers were overcome, and the kitchen 
stands as an emblem of modern skill in 
that respect. 

Its greatest length being from north- 
east to south-west, its position is just 
right for the most perfect ventilation, 
which is further secured by the monitor 
roof having on each side nine window^s 



that may be opened to an angle of 
thirty degrees, thus giA^ng a perfect 
outlet for the accumulation of vapors 
and heavily loaded air. 

The constructors believed that they 
must build to meet the requirements of 
the present time, when a knowledge of 
hygiene is possessed by all classes, and 
when even laws make it obligatory that 
foods be prepared under the most 
sanitary conditions. They, therefore, 
provided that the interior walls should 
be of tiled brick, which are non-absorb- 
ent and as easily cleansed as any 
piece of china ; that the floor should be 
of slate tiles, set so closely together in 
cement that it is impossible for moisture 
to penetrate; that there should be a 
slight incline in the floor toward a 
perfect drain which carries off water 
used for cleansing the floor as well as 
condensed steam from the steam kettles ; 
that all corners should be rounded and 




Interior of Kitchen showing Ranges 



64 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




The Bakery 



no angles or ledges left for the collection 
of dust and dirt; that there should be 
many windows, giving opportunity for 
sunshine to enter every nook and corner, 
with the result that nothing can be 
hidden; that partitions should not ex- 
tend quite to the ceiling, thus providing 
further for ventilation and a free cir- 
culation of air; that entrance and exit 
should be easy by means of doors well 
placed ; that perfect sanitation should be 
possible by reason of the best and most 
carefully considered open plumbing. 

Under the same roof and immediately 
adjoining the kitchen, but separated 
from it by one of the lower partitions, 
is the bakery, containing the large oven, 
where are baked all the bread and 
other articles of food used by the hos- 
pital proper as well as by the contagious 
department. It is knowm as a portable 
oven, with all the advantages of an 
old-fashioned brick oven, but costing 



only about one-half as much and pos- 
sessing some qualities decidedly prefer- 
able to those of a brick oven. It stands 
about two feet from the floor, and thus 
allows an opportunity for cleanliness 
beneath it and all around it. 

One prominent feature of this do- 
mestic building is the scullery, opening 
out of the kitchen, where all the rougher 
work may be done. Here are sinks for 
washing vegetables, a motor for freezing 
ice-cream, and the same possibilities for 
fresh air and sunlight as are found else- 
where. 

The kitchen furnishings and special 
appointments are the simplest possible. 
Everything here found was placed here 
with a due regard for convenience and 
sanitation. 

There are no cupboards where ac- 
cumulation of any kind may be hidden. 
There is one small cupboard, where such 
articles as ought not to be exposed to 



A Modern Hospital Kitchen 



6s 



the hght are kept, and there are a few 
small drawers for hnen. The kitchen 
utensils that cannot be hung upon a 
rack are placed upon an open cup- 
board, which is made of iron rods enam- 
elled white. Upon this open cupboard 
are kept such utensils as milk-cans, tea- 
pots, coffee-pots, pitchers, plates, etc. 

The range stands away from the 
wall near the middle of the floor and in 
line with the steam kettles, so that the 
same hood covers all and the same vent- 
pipe ventilates all. A short experience 
with a range thus placed proves its 
value. It is approachable from either 
side, and the oven doors may be opened 
from either side. 

The refrigerators, three in number, 
constitute the end of the building, and 
are so constructed as to permit a free 
circulation of cold air in each from the 
common ice chamber, and, yet, not to 



allow a mingling of the air in one with 
that of another. In this way it is 
possible to keep butter and milk sepa- 
rated from meat or any miscellaneous 
collection of food; and the size of the 
refrigerator gives opportunity for storage 
in larger quantities than heretofore, 
and is thereby a means of economy. 

In this kitchen building the hospital 
feels that it has one of the best and most 
efiicient means of promoting the welfare 
of the sick who give themselves to its 
care; for we are taught that, "of all the 
means at the command of the physician 
in the treatment of disease, none stands 
higher than a properly selected and 
carefully prepared diet." And surely 
in this kitchen, so adequate as to con- 
veniences for the accomplishment of 
work under the most favorable hygienic 
and sanitary conditions, we should, 
with a proper understanding of food 




Staff Dining-room 



66 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



values and a wise discrimination in 
their selection, be able to meet the 
requirements. 

The kitchen makes the seventeenth 
in the group of the Newton Hospital 
buildings. To many readers of this 
magazine the word "hospital" is not in- 
viting, but suggests operating rooms, 
large cheerless wards, and other feat- 
ures which do not attract. 



In the Newton Hospital it has been 
constantly in mind to furnish a home 
for the sick, to provide quiet surround- 
ings, separate buildings, and every 
facility and convenience needed for 
those who are sick and for those 
who care for the sick. The buildings 
are located on high, dry land in one 
of the most attractive suburbs of 
Boston. 




Nurses' Dinino-room 



Twilight Song 

By Eugene C. Dolson 



Now the long, long day is done; 

Slowly down the west 
Sinks the red and rayless sun; 
Insect voices, one by one, 
Have their even-song begun, — 

'Tis the hour of rest. 



Sweet forgetfulness will creep 

O'er us by and by, 
Dreamland fancies softly steep 
Weary eyes in peaceful sleep, 
While the stars in silence keep 

Watch from out the sky. 



The Last of Pea-time 



By Mrs. Charles Norman 



IT was the first garden the Thomp- 
sons had ever had, and though, as 
they said themselves, there were 
many gardens just as good, still no one 
could remember a better one. 

In truth, this was the only garden 
the Thompsons had ever seen, and 
they were to be congratulated upon 
their ability to estimate it so fairly; 
for it was, without doubt, a good gar- 
den. The beans had ''come on" by 
the Fourth of July, which was as early 
as any of the neighbors had beans. 
The peas had been plentiful, — indeed, 
there were ten times as many as the 
Thompsons could possibly consume, 
though they were, as the gardener 
said, ' 'quite a pea family." Every 
radish had come up. Bach was ex- 
actly two inches from its neighbor, and 
the rows were fifteen inches apart. Mrs. 
Thompson had done the measuring. 
She was very particular about such 
things. If the matter had been left 
to Mr. Thompson or the ' 'man, " the 
result would have been quite different. 
The tomatoes did not bear much fruit, 
but they were beautiful plants; and, 
when all the rest of the garden was in 
a state of immaturity, they kept up 
the family's courage, and so were 
counted successful, even if they had 
not fulfilled the promises of youth. 

There was an aesthetic side to this 
garden, too. A stately row of sun- 
flowers served as a wall on all four 
sides, and one long, rectangular space 
was given up to flowers, new-fashioned 
and old-fashioned. 

Mr. Thompson had invited all his 
triends from town out to see his gar- 
den, but by some perversity of fate 
every one had waited till so late in 
summer that the glory of that plot 
of ground was gone and there was ab- 
solutely nothing left but sunflowers. 



If the town people had come out 
when they were asked, they might 
have carried home lettuce by the peck, 
to say nothing of peas and peas and 
peas, — for peas were bestowed upon 
all travelers who chanced to pass that 
way. There were peas for the lowly 
and peas for the mighty; and, when 
the harvest was passed and the sum- 
mer ended, there were rows of peas, 
untouched, drying up with their first 
fruit upon them. 

The city people did not dream what 
they were missing. A garden cannot 
always be fresh and charming and full 
of peas. Radishes cannot stand for- 
ever two inches apart. Those that 
are unused will just lie down and go 
to seed. Potato tops will turn brown 
and wither, flowers will pass into a 
state of decline, and weeds will take 
advantage of the general sickliness 
and get possession of everything. 

However, weeds were not the only 
crop that was coming on now. The 
children had usurped one spot which 
was shaded part of the day by an old 
tree; for children, like weeds, never 
have room enough, and always spread 
out when a clearing is made. 

They had carried to their retreat 
all manner of things, chief of which was 
a table upon which refreshments were 
served when food of any kind could be 
obtained. The birds soon discovered 
where fragments were to be found, 
and chipping sparrows came thither 
in such friendly fashion that the chil- 
dren quite forgot themselves and began 
catering to the birds. A large pan of 
water that served for drinking and 
bathing was put up in a crotch of the 
apple-tree, fat ' meat was tied to the 
branches, and the table below was 
spread with goodies. Cats were vio- 
lently excluded. The children them- 



68 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



selves retired to a near-by stump to 
watch proceedings, and visitors of 
human kind were permitted to enter 
that part of the garden only upon con- 
dition that they sit motionless and 
speechless during the interim of their 
-call. 

For a time the garden was a feeding 
place for a large number of birds. 
Then came the season of stillness and 
shyness. Three — only three — interest- 
ing products remained in the Thomp- 
son garden. The goldfinches sang, the 
sunflowers bloomed, and the children 
watched. Sometimes the boy nodded 
a little when entertainment lagged. 
Then again he was all glee, and could 
hardly keep from running after the 
mischievous father goldfinch. 

Never a Sunday passed now but 
somebody came from the city to see 
the Thompson garden. It was em- 
barrassing enough, but, when Major 
Hook's automobile was seen coming 
up the driveway, the situation became 
specially trying, for he shouted, "Hello, 
Thompson, 1,'ve come to see that gar- 
den." 

The children were, however, equal 
to the occasion, and almost before the 
''good-morning" was said the visitor 
and the family were conducted to the 
observation point, and with pride, 
pomp, and mysterious ceremony they 
were grouped around the stump and 
told to keep perfectly still. 

To the major, this solemn silence 
was a great joke, and he could not in 
the least understand why growing 
vegetables should require such peculiar 
sacrifices; but, whatever it might 
mean, the children were in earnest. So 
he maintained his peace. 

''The birds!" whispered the little 
girl. ''Look!" — and the goldfinches 
passed like flickering sunlight, from one 
tall sunflower to another, repeating 
their "Dearie!" ''Sweet!" so continu- 
ally that the beholders became inter- 
ested at once. By some good fortune 



two of the birds had brought thither 
their babies, the dearest little creatures 
imaginable, who sat upon a sunflower 
and were fed its seed. The great plant 
swayed in the sunshine, the greens, 
browns, and yellows of the gorgeous 
blossoms, matching the greens, browns, 
and yellows of the birds, producing a 
perfect symphony of color. As the 
birds moved from one sunflower to the 
next, it was by a dipping flight, and it 
seemed as if the air were festooned 
with these entrancing hues. Yet, as 
pretty as the pageant was, it appealed 
more to the heart than to the eye, for 
the adult birds led their young ones 
along in the most enticing way, skil- 
fully cracking the seed, dropping the 
husks, and putting the kernels into the 
gaping mouths. At length, as if to 
crown the performance. Father Gold- 
finch, too proud and happy to contain 
himself longer, left his task, threw back 
his jauntily-capped head, and sang his 
wildest, longest, sweetest song. The 
major, weary of city life, its hurly- 
burly and materialism, stared straight 
at the feathered musician, and listened. 
As if out of appreciation for such 
marked attention, the goldfinch came 
nearer and resumed his ecstatic warble. 
It was a moment of enchantment for 
the major, and from that time the 
Thompson garden became to him a 
never-to-be-forgotten place. 

''By Jove!" said he, as the song 
ceased. ' 'I wish you had told me 
what it was like. I should have been 
out long ago. Trained canaries in a 
garden! How did vou ever manage 
it?" 

As he started home, he began hum- 
ming to himself, absent-mindedly, 

"Mistress Mary, quite contrary, 
How does your garden grow?" 

• Then, by way of answering and com- 
pleting his own tune, he sang, 

"With Goldfinches sweet, at children's feet, 
And sunflowers all in a row," 



Beneficence 

By Harriette Robinson Shattuck 



Why are the flowers so varied, 
And not just red and blue? 

Why are the stars in myriads, 
When we only see a few? 

Why rainbows in the sunrise. 

When dull, plain lines would serve? 

Such limitless profusion 
For the little we deserve? 



For ourselves, — we build a doll's house! 

A Universe is given ! 
And, spite of earthly failure, 

There's promise true of Heaven. 

Ah ! why indeed, such bounty 
Showered on us from Above? 

When justice owes us nothing. 
Why this unbounded love ? 



Our Father, in Thy mercy 

Lead us to understand 
This beneficent bestowal 

As the beckoning of Thy hand. 



A Chemist's Ice-cream and Some Other 

Possibilities 



By Helen Campbell 



A. 



NATION of dyspeptics?" said 
a famous physician the other 
day. ' 'We have earned the 
title, I admit. The worst sinners, it 
is said, make the best saints, you know, 
and our own dietetic transgressions 
began to bring us to our senses as far 
back as the early forties, and that Amer- 
ican John the Baptist, Dr. Sylvester 
Graham. I'll wager not a third of you 
know it was for him that Graham flour 
was named. But between the Pure 
Food agitation and faddists of one order 
and another. Uncooked Foodites, vege- 
tarians, and so on, there is more thought 
spent on the matter than ever before. 
Best of all, the women in their clubs 
are trying to settle not only the mean- 
ing and bearing of this Pure Food 
question but of food in general for all 
ages. So I am inclined to think we 
shall presently be the most rationally 
fed nation on the planet, eating far less 
than we have thought necessary, and 
taking more time to it." 



' 'Fletcherizing!" said one of tl;ie 
group about him. ''Oh, come, doctor! 
I've known you too long to believe 
you'll cut us ofif from your 'little din- 
ners, ' as you will call them, and the 
sense of peaceful satisfaction left with 
their eaters. Don't do it. It would 
be a crime." 

"It may be, my friend. We shall 
presently have to believe the crime is 
in letting them tempt us beyond rational 
bounds," was the reply. ' 'But that is 
neither here nor there just now. What 
is certain is that for thinking people 
there is a growing willingness not only 
to question, but to experiment. The 
famous Chittenden Report of the Yale 
University experiment helped the move- 
ment, for even the doctors handle it 
with respect. And now here's the dig- 
nified World's Work with a long ar- 
ticle on 'The Spread of Fletcher ism.'" 

"Let that go!" said an impatient 
voice. ' 'It's true enough, but too 
upsetting to old notions. The Pure 



70 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Food people are all right. It's a good 
fight, and yet there's a strong word to 
say for some aduUerations. Here's 
Stillman himself, the crack chemist at 
Stevens Institute, who gave a chem- 
ical dinner the other day, you know. 
I mean a dinner at which most of the 
dishes were chemical combinations, 
their nature not given. He declares 
that a good deal of the food adultera- 
tion is not harmful, but, on the whole, 
a benefit to the poor. The reporters 
were after him of course, and here's 
what he said," — and the speaker took 
a slip from his note-book. * 'I sent my 
boy to the store to buy a pound of the 
cheapest raspberry jelly. The boy 
brought back something which looked 
and tasted like raspberry jelly, but 
which never saw a berry. It cost 
twelve cents. The cheapest possible 
cost for raspberry jelly, it has been 
computed, would be thirty cents a 
pound, — the real raspberry jelly, I 
mean. That represents the bed-rock 
cost aside from the labor cost and the 
profits. Now I analyzed that rasp- 
berry jelly, and found that it was made 
of apple pulp after the cider was 
squeezed out, glucose, and a few other 
materials. It is true that it would not 
appeal to the educated palate, but it 
brings the luxury of raspberry jelly 
within the reach of the very poor. It 
was entirely harmless. It was nourish- 
ing. The only harm was the fact that 
it was labeled as an imitation. I could 
give you many other instances of a 
similar kind, but to no different pur- 
pose. Label it properly, and they might 
not buy it, but sweet is a legitimate 
food, and this was good to spread on 
the children's bread. What shall we 
do about it?" 

* legislation will settle all that," 
said another of the group. ' 'I was 
at that dinner, a most extraordinary 
one, though it tasted all right, plus the 
awful uncertainty in which it left you 
as to what he might be foisting on you. 
The ice-cream was delicious. Sherry 



couldn't beat it, — no, nor that old place 
in Philadelphia that makes the best in 
the world, they say, — Blanck's, you 
know. But this is what Stillman 
evolved. He took some triple refined 
cotton-seed oil, and placed it in a cen- 
trifugal machine, revolving three thou- 
sand times a minute. Something had 
to happen, and it did. Out came a 
beautiful emulsion, which needed only 
to be sweetened and flavored and frozen. 
The sweet was saccharin, and the 
flavor vanillin, glucin, and nitro-benzol. 
Smooth as velvet, and no mortal could 
have told it wasn't pure cream. That 
is a sample of all the other mysteries. 
He said that he had been told ice-cream 
like his compound is made and sold in 
a good many of the Southern States, 
where cotton-seed oil is more abundant, 
and so cheaper than milk or cream. It 
can do no harm, being a perfectly 
healthful combination. It tastes good, 
and melts much less quickly than the 
real* thing. In short, it's a champion 
fraud, like your raspberry-jelly busi- 
ness; but it answers the purpose, so 
what shall we do about it?" 

' 'Thank the powers that the average 
housekeeper doesn't own a centrifugat- 
ing machine and isn't likely to at 
present," said a serious old gentleman, 
who had shaken his head mournfully 
as he listened. * 'The fact is, between 
the Simple Life people, who send you 
back to barbarism and before, with their 
diet of nuts and fruits, and this new 
terror of one tablet equivalent to a meal 
sounding from the chemical labora- 
tories, we are going to pieces as a peo- 
ple." 

''Never despair!" the first speaker 
said, with a laugh so cheery that the 
old gentleman smiled an uncertain, un- 
accustomed smile. ' 'So long as Dr. 
Hutchinson is in all the public prints 
with his shout for more pork and all 
the things our grandmothers used to 
make, doughnuts and pie included, we 
shall not abolish the kitchens. The 
point is that, if the chemical things are 



A H 



ouse-warming 



71 



proved to be really wholesome as well 
as palatable, we are safe against a 
famine. H. G. Wells should have been 
at that dinner, and got a kink or two 
for his new edition of 'Coming Uto- 
pias.'" 

* 'We don't want 'em," said the old 
gentleman, decisively. * 'I am pretty 
certain the Lord's methods are better 
than the chemist's, and what I eat 
shall have the good brown earth for its 
start, and sun and ,rain and dew to 



do the rest. Burbank has sense. I'll 
stand by him, no matter what tricks 
he plays with sensible vegetables, but 
this chemical nonsense I won't stand." 
And now, as the group laughed, he 
stumped from the room, his cane ac- 
centing the low grumble of protest still 
on his lips, and went his way to the old- 
fashioned house in which his days went 
by, and from which new theories and new 
methods, no less, were carefully barred 
out. 



A House-warming 

By Mary Barrows 



ONE of the principles underlying 
the revival of the arts and 
crafts is the recognition of the 
human quality of the work, — the value 
of its individuality opposed to the 
monotony of the machine-made prod- 
uct, and the consequent joy of the 
workman in toil that has its reward 
in understanding and appreciation, 
and not merely in dollars and cents. 

It is strange that we take so much 
interest in what we put into our houses 
and expend so little thought upon the 
buildings themselves. Many, of course, 
are not able to build their own homes, 
and must make the best of the house 
that is made to rent. But all the 
symposiums in the household maga- 
zines, on building a house with the 
savings from an average working- 
man's income, show that this privilege 
does not belong to the money kings 
only. 

Does the human quality of work in 
the trades demand less sympathy than 
that in the crafts? Why does the 
owner's thought of his house go to the 
person of the architect and the con- 
tractor, and stop there? The popular 
idea seems to be that a house takes form 
in spite of a horde of warring clans that 



do their worst upon it. The masons 
descend and make a legalized hole that 
will answer to put a building over (at 
least it holds water!), the carpenters 
come, and the plasterers and the steam- 
fitters and the plumbers and the pa- 
perers, each trade fearful that it shall 
do something beyond the bounds of 
its domain. It is not wonderful that 
the parts of a house so built should 
hardly hold together. 

To lay the blame for this on the labor 
unions is a comfortable dismissal of the 
subject. But what is responsible for 
the labor unions, with all their faults? 
Not to enter too deeply into the realms 
of economics and sociology, is it not 
the elimination of the human elernent 
from the work of the trades that has 
driven them to organization in self- 
defence? As the individual worker 
has not been recognized by the indi- 
vidual for whom the work is done, the 
latter is hoist with his own petard, 
and no consideration is shown for his 
individual taste or demands. 

It is interesting to recall cases in 
which the existence of a personal rela- 
tion between the owner anti the work- 
man has prevented a ' 'scamped job," 
in spite of a contractor who was not 



72 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



above suspicion. One in point was 
that of a young steam-fitter who saw 
to it that his part of the contract was 
carried out according to specifications, 
because he knew the woman for whom 
the house was being built, although 
the architect through slackness or 
graft was neglecting to hold the con- 
tractor to the letter of his contract. 

There are indications that better 
times may come, if we want them. 
The happiest instance in the knowledge 
of the writer is a house-warming that 
took place in one of our American 
cities not long ago. 

It seemed to the gentleman and his 
wife for whom this house had been 
built that, next to themselves, the 
persons most interested in the finished 
and furnished house were the men who 
had made it. So for the house-warming 
these men and their wives were the 
chosen guests. Mrs. N. said, ' 'Of 
course we knew most of the men by face 
and speech through frequent visits 
to the house while it was building." 
(Can many women say ''Of course"?) 
But from the contractors the names and 
addresses were obtained and invita- 
tions were sent out to all, from the 
architect and builder down to the boy 
who carried the water and the old 
man who leveled off the lawn and the 
man who laid the cement walks. 

Friends of the hosts said that the 
invited guests would not come, that 
they would feel patronized, etc., etc. 
But the lady of the house, a noble 
name that has been lightly used — 
said, ' 'If we do not feel patronizing, I 
don't think there is much danger that 
they will feel patronized." 

They came. About sixty men had 
been employed. These and their wives 
and a few personal friends of the hosts 
brought the number up to a hundred. 
They went all over the house from 
cellar to attic, taking great pride in 
pointing out to their wives their own 
work. ' 'I laid all that mantel face." 



' 'I done that." The paperers explained 
with pride how the paper had" been 
centred in the big living-room to bring 
the design just right above the fire- 
place. The wood finishers passed their 
hands lovingly over the rubbed doors 
in the library. An old Irishman said 
he ' 'pit his spade in for the first shovel- 
ful of earth that iver come out of the 
cellar." 

One is inclined to conjecture whether 
these men had ever been given an op- 
portunity to show their wives the kind 
and quality of their daily work, and 
whether it would result in widening 
the range of conversation in the fam- 
ilies. The women, however, were 
naturally most concerned with the 
pictures, curtains, and other furnish- 
ings. 

After the whole house had been in- 
spected, all were seated in the living- 
room. There was singing, a brief 
prayer of dedication, then the little 
daughter lit the fire on the hearth the 
first time, and all sang ' 'Home, Sweet 
Home." A few short speeches fol- 
lowed, and the more formal exercises 
closed with an expression of gratitude 
from the host to the men who had 
helped to make the home. 

Then came a Virginia reel, one of 
the family friends, a clergyman, lead- 
ing with the wife of one of the carpen- 
ters; and after the frolic came the 
supper. It was a genuinely good time 
from beginning to end. 

Among the by-products of the even- 
ing has been the naming of a baby 
girl for the hostess and of a fine boy 
for the host ! And, better than this, a 
friendly turning to Mr. N. on the part 
of the men for advice and help. 

The moral of the house-warming 
has many ramifications, but, since it 
was not given to point a moral, far be 
it from the writer to exceed in zeal the 
wise man and woman whose plan it 
was. At least, it affords much food for 
thought. 



A Day in Autumn 

By Eugene C. Dolson 



Bright red-winged blackbirds wheel above 

The reedy pasture land, 
Where, yoked and moveless, in the brook 

Knee-deep the oxen stand. 

Far off you see gray smoke wreaths curl 

From chimneys of the mill, 
And noon-time hour comes heralded 

By bell and whistle shrill. 



A waft of air floats up the way, 

The leaves are softly stirred; 
And deep in woodland shades ring out 

The clear notes of a bird. 

Dear Nature's changing light and gloom- 

Her smiles and solitudes- 
Flit over all the quiet land. 

While dreamful Autumn broods. 



Three Hundred Miles of Blackberry Pie 
and Fried Chicken 

A Neutral, Non-committal Story of a National Episode 

By Felix J. Koch 



"IW^ T OT so many years ago but 
^^ that those participating in the 
1, ^ feast still recall it vividly, a 
ride was made by a guerrilla band- 
Morgan's men, to be exact — into the 
border country of North and South, 
which remains unparalleled in history 
for being, as the leader of the pursuers 
claimed, a ' 'ride of blackberry pie 
and fried chicken." 

The story would serve well as a plot 
for a military pastoral. For six full 
months prior to receipt of orders to 
go in pursuit, the home troops had 
had little rest. Now that the recess 
hour had come, they pitched camp 
in a peaceful, rural region, where the 
troops might recuperate at their leisure, 
and incidentally court the pretty 
farmer girls, from among whom many 
a soldier lad, later, chose his wife. 

Then came the eventful day. A 
courier brought the news, — the foe was 
close at hand, and the soldiers must be 
off in pursuit within an hour of the 
warning. Two days' rations were to 
be taken, — beyond these they must live 



from the country. It was the sort of 
expedition youth delights in most, and 
youth made up the greater part of 
that company. 

How many weary miles they followed 
the enemy, the heavy dust thrown on 
the herbage by two thousand odd 
steeds plainly marking the way; how 
attempts were made to throw them 
from the trail by cannon fired from 
towns miles to either side ; and how the 
farmers, enraged at the theft of their 
horses, valiantly came to the rescue 
by plainly stating the whereabouts 
of the raiders, — is immaterial to the 
story. Suffice it to say that on • the 
fourth and then on the fifth of the 
month there were encounters between 
the two legions, and that the one 
started off in wild flight, the other in 
equally hot pursuit. 

Thus opened the ride of pie and 
chickens. 

Early on his mission of pursuit the 
leader, one Colonel Allen, had expressed 
a fondness for these two dainties, del- 
icacies the country-side then afforded 



74 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



in profusion, and this information had 
reached the farmers. Good-hearted, 
kindly folk, as agrarians ever are, they 
resolved to give their champions the 
best they might, and so, over the route 
taken by the pursued, ovens and 
ranges were burdened with chickens 
and pie, in readiness for the pursuer. 

Mile on mile, without end, as the 
troops rode by, bashful little country 
girls took their places at the way- 
side, their heads bowed low, showing 
tousled curls, their arms aloft, bearing 
broad platters, spread with clean 
white napkins, on which rested two, 
three, four luscious blackberry pies, 
from which the ruby juice oozed as the 
sun beat down, trickling out on the 
napkins. Little brothers — barefoot 
and hatless, clad only in jean pants 
and a suspender — kept their sisters 
company, with a fried chicken held 
in either hand, ready to be reached to 
the soldiers. At the bend of the road 
father and uncle stood guard over 
trays of fowl, while mothers awaited 
their chance to assist at the serving. 

Nor did the troopers stop to feast. 
It was a mad, wild chase that lay before, 
— a chase that would end in victory or 
defeat, according only as the horses 
would last. The enemy, with com- 
mendable shrewdness, had cleared the 
country of steeds of every description, 
so that fresh mounts for the pursuer 
were unobtainable. 

Day in, day out, they must ride and 
ride, — eating as they went. 

Then there began another phase of 
this ride through the land of fowl and 
berry. Music, for accompaniment, was 
also to be provided, and that in a patri- 
otic monotone. One song, and one 
only, had been selected to do them 
honor, and as they rode past lonely 
farms or through hamlets, or passed a 
toll-gate or an inn, every one from the 
township gathered, and sang until they 
disappeared over the horizon. In the 
night-time tired troopers, sleeping, — 
hats tied to their heads to prevent fall- 



ing when nodding, — would suddenly 
awake, as they dashed through a town, 
to be surrounded by a chorus of villagers. 
Sentries in the van, half asleep, would be 
roused to their labors by some family 
group, at an isolated cross-road, like- 
wise singing the paean. At last, as the 
leader of the expedition says, it seemed 
as if the very katydids had taken up the 
refrain, and buzzed it into their ears. 

When they were not eating chicken 
and pie or listening to the music of 
the country-side, and there was a 
chance, the soldiers begged for other 
fare, — anything, the very plainest, — 
but it could not be secured. The 
more they begged, the more pie and 
fowl were forthcoming, for the farmers 
mistook their queries as a desire for 
food, and only the best could be given 
the soldiers. And that best was, of 
course, the inevitable! 

Finally, as all things must have an 
end, the guerrillas were overtaken, and 
forced to surrender. The site of the 
capitulation was a pleasant valley, 
watered by a river. Two thousand 
odd troopers on the one side, — none of 
whom had had his clothes off in three 
weeks, — possibly as many on the 
other, pitched their camps beside the 
stream. Then one-half from either 
side plunged into the deep waters, and 
washed away the dust and grime, and, 
in a very distinctly marked half of the 
company, the traces of blackberry pie, 
which had stained their mouths and 
chins. 

After that an old-fashioned dinner 
al fresco was served from the wallets 
and haversacks of either side, and the 
legends of the country go to say that 
many a toothsome fowl and juicy pie, 
baked for the pursuer, now found its 
way into the hands of the enemy. 

So ended the ride of blackberry 
pie and chicken. A little over three 
decades afterward, when the survivors 
of the ride, who had not been num- 
bered among the silent majority, met, 
the defeated of that day the guests 



Hospitality made Easy 



75 



of the victors, recollections of the 
ride through pie and chicken land were 
passed from lip to lip. And then it 



was that the leader told the tale of 
what he called ' 'Three Hundred Miles 
of Fried Chicken." 



Hospitality made Easy 

By Alice Hussey Gauss 



THE memor}^ of a comfortable 
hearth at the tired end of the 
afternoon, with lounging chairs 
and pleasant lights, where one has 
warmed his heart as well as his feet, 
and where he has been tempted to 
think and talk of the more real things 
of life, is a possession of almost any one 
of us ; and I suppose there are few good 
wives and mothers who do not wish 
such happy memories to be carried 
from their homes. Indeed, hospitality 
is the pride of the young wife; and it 
is only when she is confronted by poor 
help, scant finances, and, perhaps, the 
added care of little babies that she feels 
herself gradually losing her grasp on 
her first ideals, and the * 'dropping in" 
of friends becomes sometimes a pleas- 
ure with a burden. I have myself been 
through the mill, and I have protested 
at every step against the difficulties of 
hospitality, holding firmly to my belief 
that friends were worth far more than 
the conventionalities that made their 
pleasant breaking of bread with us a 
burden. And out of this persistent 
protest has finally come the solution of, 
at least, my own difiiculties. Perhaps 
a few of my devices may prove sugges- 
tive to others. 

One of the first cares of the hostess 
will naturally be the living-room; and 
for one I would say, ' 'Do not take too 
much care of it!" The chairs and 
tables have a way of arranging them- 
selves sociably in a room that is much 
used, and the housewife will do well to 
take suggestions, at least, from this 



natural arrangement, if she wishes her 
room to be homelike. As for the daily 
dusting, I have found that a few mo- 
ments of attention before breakfast 
did more for the comfort of our house- 
hold and our friends than an hour later 
in the day. It was but a few mo- 
ments' w^ork to lay the fire, freshen the 
rugs with a damp broom, give a few 
touches to the table, — where, by the 
w^ay, only books which w^e really were 
reading were allowed to remain, — fill 
the lamp, and renew the candles. By 
breakfast time the room itself was a 
sort of invitation, and the nervous fear 
lest some one should come in upon a 
cold hearth and an untidy room was 
over for the day. I speak of this es- 
pecially, because I have tested so thor- 
oughly the value of planning work to 
relieve the nervous strain. My chief 
watchword would be ' 'Plan." Keep 
at least a day ahead. Whatever is 
going to worry one if it is not done on 
time should be done first. We shall 
catch up with the rest, and keep happy 
withal. 

I spoke a moment ago of candles. 
They may seem an extravagance to 
some, but we found them not to be so, 
even preferring a cheap grade to giving 
them up, so restful is their light. There 
is a time between daylight and dark 
when candle-light seem.s best to fit the 
mood, the time of the afternoon tea. 
The tea table, by the way, we found to 
be an excellent substitute for a fire- 
place when the latter was an impossi- 
bility. A brass tray with shining cups 



76 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



and reflected candle-light is almost as 
cheering as the wood flame, and often 
quite as conducive to pleasant exchange 
of thought. At first, preparing for the 
afternoon tea seemed somewhat of a 
burden, as I always waited until the 
time was at hand before getting the 
things ready. But, finally, as a dear 
grandmother said, ' 'I got it into a 
habit." Each day after dinner I set 
the tray, without a doily, — everything 
ready but scalding the tea and filling 
the hot-water pitcher. And so it was 
ready at the boiling of the water, when 
we were all comfortably gathered at 
dusk, and seemed no work at all. On 
Saturdays, too, I had my tea tray in 
mind, and usually added to my baking 
a batch of cookies, though Graham 
wafers are acceptable and much simpler. 

But it was in the matter of meals 
that I was obliged to reduce everything 
to the simplest, and to be most fore- 
handed, not only to be always ready, 
but also to avoid the expense of a 
hurried meal. At the outset I saw 
that the question of fresh table linen 
was a serious one. There is no part 
of the household that so swells the 
laundry account; and I decided that 
linen, all but napkins, must go. I may 
yet abandon even these for paper ones ! 
At the small expense of fifteen cents 
per roll I furnished myself with the 
pretty, decorative, crepe paper to be had 
now in all colors and designs. Out of 
one roll there was sufficient for a strip 
down the centre of the table, six doilies, 
and two candle shades. The idea 
proved most satisfactory, and was in- 
variably appreciated by my guests. 
This use of the doilies instead of a table- 
cloth was quite possible in our own 
case, as we decided to have supper at 
night for the two reasons that it made 
the work in the kitchen much simpler 
and that, as a majority of our guests 
came in the evening, we could enter- 
tain them at the less pretentious meal. 

The next and more important ques- 
tion, was that of food; and here I 



soon found what supplies were most 
needed for quick and inexpensive dishes. 
They are simple and ordinary, I admit, 
but it took me some time to learn their 
value, and it may save some one an 
unnecessary expense of spirit, if I give 
a few of my menus for this season and 
a list of the supplies I have found to 
be most helpful. I would say, in pass- 
ing, that the thought and time taken 
to keep a batch of menus on hand and 
to keep my stores filled have been amply 
repaid in the ease of serving quick 
meals and in the saving of grocery bills. 
In so planning, one always finds for odds 
and ends uses which might not suggest 
themselves on the spur of the moment. 

Supplies 
Eggs. 
Sardines. 

Salmon (lobster is better, but more expensive). 
Nuts (walnuts, almonds, cup of meats always 

ready). 
Cream cheese (Neufchatel or Philadelphia 

cream). 
Sapsago cheese. 

American cheese (old enough to grate) 
Stuffed olives. 
Capers. 

Curry powder. 
Rolled bread crumbs. 
Cold boiled potatoes. 
Onions. 

Celery (or dried tops). 
Parsley (may be grown in window) . 
Canned peas. 
Lettuce when possible. 
* Mayonnaise dressing. 
Fruit, fresh or canned 
Jam or jelly. 

Home-made cookies or small plain cakes. 
Crackers. 

Menus 
I. 

Eggs poached in milk (in chafing-dish). 

Creamed potatoes. 

Salad, made of chopped stuffed olives and 
cream cheese, mixed with French or mayon- 
naise dressing. 

Apples with nuts. (See this magazine, De- 
cember, 1905.) 

II. 

Potato salad with sardines. (With potatoes 
as a basis, one may use to advantage cold peas, 

* A Dover egg-beater makes this very easy, as the oil may 
be added much more rapidly. 



Who owns the Farm;' 



77 



cold chopped spinach, celery, parslej'^, or hard- 
boiled eggs. Peas, parsley, and eggs make 
good garnishes. Sour cream is an excellent 
substitute for oil.) 

Swiss or Sap sago cheese, the latter grated 
and softened with butter, for sandwiches. 
(These may be made informally at the table.) 

Coffee with the whole supper. 

Cakes and nuts. 

III. 

Salmon, cold with sauce made of mayonnaise, 
seasoned with capers, onion, and parsley, or 

Creamed salmon, baked with grated cheese 
and bread crumbs. 

Stuffed eggs, the centres mixed with almost 
any convenient seasoning, onion juice, pars- 
ley, French or mayonnaise dressing. 

Fruit, fresh or canned. 

Tea and cakes. 

IV. 

Baked omelet. The yolks beaten together 
with any chopped bits of left-over meat or 
with fine bread crumbs. 

Lyonnaise potatoes. 

Nut and apple salad with mayonnaise. 

Sweet sandwiches (cream cheese and jelly or 
jam). 

Tea. 

V. 

Curried meat or eggs, with boiled rice. 



Lettuce with French dressing. 
Baked.apples, centres filled with any bits of 
left-over jam or jelly 
Tea or coffee and cakes. 

The little cakes I have found to be 
a great comfort, sugar cookies with a 
few nuts and raisins stirred in, oatmeal 
wafers (see this magazine, January, 
1906), or any kind of small cakes. A 
few minutes spent on a rainy or quiet 
evening in cracking a few nuts or sort- 
ing a few raisins help very materially 
towards making the baking easy. 

But, again and last, I would say that 
nothing contributes so much to general 
peace of mind — and the cheerful 
hostess must be free of the fetters of 
nervousness — as this planning ahead. 
Two hours once a week will do it all. 
And the sense of security, even the 
sense of thrift which it brings, gives to 
the leisure hours of companionship 
with friends and books a freedom with- 
out which there can be no real think- 
ing, no real living. 



Who owns the Farm? 

By Kate M. Post 



We bought the house and the apple-trees. 
And the spring where the cresses grew, 

The old stone wall and the slope of grass 
All studded with violets blue. 

We bought and paid for them honestly. 

In the usual business way: 
'Twas settled, we thought, yet there are some 

Who dispute our title each day. 

A phcebe came to the eastern porch. 
Where I loitered one sunny day. 

And told me that porch was hers, not mine. 
Just as plainly as bird could say. 

That she didn't want me prying there 

Into all her family affairs, 
And asked me by pert little gestures. 

If I had no family cares. 

The vireo perched high above me. 
In the great branching apple-tree. 

And said, "I am here, I'm here, I'm here," 
As though 'twere important to me. 



And then he most saucily asked me, 
"Who are you ?" in such an odd way 

That I felt quite like an intruder, 
And I hadn't a word to say. 

A pair of robins have made their home 

In that very same apple-tree. 
And they plainly tell me every day 

That they don't care a straw for me. 

And a pair of chippies think the limbs 

Are exactly the proper height ; 
They've been looking round some time, I know. 

For a suitable building site. 

What right have we in this place, think you. 
When the crows make free with our corn. 

And the brown thrush says "good-bye" each 
night. 
And the blue jay calls us at morn ? 

The chimney belongs to the swallows. 
The piazza's owned by the wren. 

We'll take care to see our title's clear. 
When we purchase a farm again. 



Simmons College 



First Commencement of the Technical College for Women who Work 



(Press Report) 



ON June 13 Simmons College 
held its first Commencement 
exercises, when thirty-two 
young women received diplomas, having 
completed the four years' course, and 
twenty-four certificates were given to 
college graduates and others who had 
taken the one-year course. 

President Lefavour opened^ his ad- 
dress with a brief summary of the life 
of John Simmons, the founder of the 
college, who came to Boston a hundred 
years ago. He said the question of 
intensification of preparation for a live- 
lihood both for men and for women 
had now become acute, and one impor- 
tant step in answer to the challenge 
was a provision in the will of John Sim- 
mons, as a result of which this group of 
students go forth indebted to the gen- 
erosity and wisdom and prescience of 
that Rhode Island boy. 

It is not easy to put into words what 
is meant by civilization, and that we 
cannot as a people be said to have at 
heart a higher standard than that which 
enters into our daily life, measured by 
the general average of our conduct and 
the every-day application of our laws. 
If there is a corrupt municipal govern- 
ment, we have to inquire whether it is 
with the intelligent consent of those 
governed or through their ignorance 
of the far-reaching consequence of 
their votes. If the latter, the result 
is only momentary: if the former, it is 
a measure of the degree of civilization. 
The standard measure of our achieve- 
ment is the common usage of the many. 
We have not the intensity of religious 
faith of the Egyptian nor the perfec- 
tion of art of the Greeks nor the ma- 
jestic beauty of law of the Romans. 
Yet all of the common people of these 
nations had not the freedom which is 
enjoyed by the humblest citizen among 



us to-day. In civilization there is a 
progressive development, not uniform, 
perhaps losing ground in one direction 
as it gains in another, but always with 
a quantitative accumulative freedom 
for the individual to act in accordance 
with one's natural desires, freedom to 
work, to know, to believe, and to make 
use of the talents with which an indi- 
vidual is endowed, be they few or 
many. 

This social evolution is not recent or 
modern, and with each change there 
comes a deeper obligation to insure to 
others a freedom of self-development. 
The hundred years that have elapsed 
since John Simmons came to Boston 
are sufficient to have marked the 
changes. The general average civiliza- 
tion is far higher than then, if the mass 
of people is considered, and not the 
privileged few. 

A few individuals, perhaps, even may 
be at a disadvantage because of these 
changes, but the key to it all lies in the 
possibilities for independence of thought 
and action that obtain for the humblest 
citizen. I believe that the strongest 
motives that have actuated great 
human crises have been a consciousness 
of the sufferings and wrongs of those 
about us. It is the class wrong that 
has produced rebellion, and the new 
century seems likely to be a period of 
awakening social recognition, that not 
only gives alms and relieves distress, 
seeks to recognize and to remove the 
obstacles that stand in the way of free 
personal development, to deal chari- 
tably and justly, to measure motives 
and to gauge responsibility. 

Education has two large, separate, 
and yet largely interdependent tasks. 
It prepares our youth for life with a 
sharpening of all their faculties and a 
knowledge of the world in which they 



The Path by the Brook 



79 



are to live and of their relations to it. 
It fits our youth also for a life of use- 
fulness, and to give such as need it the 
necessary knowledge of some profession 
or art or craft that shall enable them 
to maintain themselves and to serve 
the world. 

When John Simmons made his will, 
there existed the various parts of a 
complete system for attaining the first 
of these two objects, but the second 
had not been developed so systemati- 
cally, and we are far to-day from hav- 
ing a true polytechnic. It is only with- 
in a few years that the State has 
begun to inquire into the need of tech- 
nical and industrial instruction for the 
trades and crafts. 

In carrying out this practical educa- 
tion, three methods may be used. We 
may complete the general education, 
and then begin the application to some 
definite practical end, or we may begin 
the practical instruction before the 
completion of the general courses, carry- 
ing them both side by side, gradually 
increasing the amount of practical in- 
struction until we reach the climax, — 
the method adopted in Simmons Col- 
lege. It is more and more recognized 
in our training for professional and en- 
gineering vocations, having for its ad- 
vantage that the whole education be- 
comes more intensive, the correlation 
of subjects more apparent, and the in- 
terest of the students more assured. 

The third method, least practicable 
of all, has most to be said for it, — a con- 
current combination of actual work and 
study. In our future social develop- 
ment, then, the signs are not wanting 



that we must prepare for a more inten- 
sive education. 

It will be the duty of each commu- 
nity to offer opportunities to its mem- 
bers for a life of usefulness. Our 
methods must be improved, that time 
shall not be wasted. I do not need to 
enlarge on the part that women must 
play in this scheme of education. The 
work of most must be in the home, but 
many will be called on to contribute to 
other activities, and our general edu- 
cational plan must provide equally for 
this. The institution we represent must 
stand for the dignity of labor and for 
the idea of usefulness through educa- 
tion. 

In closing, President Lefavour bade 
the pupils have the word ' 'service" ever 
on their lips, and to remember that all 
must bear one another's burdens, and, 
so fulfilling the law of Christ, forget 
their own. After music, Miss Sarah 
Louise Arnold, dean of the college, pre- 
sented the candidates for the degree of 
Bachelor of Science, thirty-two in num- 
ber. 

The announcement of certificates fol- 
lowed. They were in part as follows : 

One-year programme in household 
economics, substituted for the course 
of study previously offered by the Bos- 
ton Cooking School: — 



Gladys B. Armitage. 
Helen S. Buck. 
Mary L. Carpenter. 
Bessie A. Cooper. 
Florence M. Finch. 
Anna M. Grebenstein. 
Gertrude M. Hitchcock. 
Blanche Mairet. 
Bessie F. Millar. 



Hazel Radcliffe. 
Margaret Russell. 
Grace W. Smith. 
Ella J. Spooner. 
Edna M. Swinheart, 

Ph.B Coe College. 
Helen I. Thissell. 
Emma A. Winslow. 



The Path by the Brook 

By Cora A. Matson Dolson 



Along the slanting brookside grow 
Green hemlocks in a winding row. 
A brown path wanders in and out 
The fragrant hemlock trunks about. 



Whenever down that path I stray, 
Crowds, fret, and toil move far away, 
While Nature's ever-healing calm 
Seems for all human ills a balm. 



8o 



The Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

or 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 

Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A TEAR. 



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GO forth under the open sky, 
and list to Nature's teach- 
ings." Let this be a message 
to all on these glorious summer days. 
The book of nature is marvelously 
entertaining and infallibly true. Under 
nature's teaching renew health, strength, 
cheerfulness and nerve force for future 
efforts and usefulness. 

THE life of superstition is 
full of fear. We want to 
be emancipated from fear of 
every sort save that of doing wrong. 
And what is wrong-doing unless it be 
a violation of the laws and condition 
under which we must conduct life here. 
We should live always in accordance 
with the best light of our day and gen- 



eration, assured that the joy of living 
comes chiefly from joy in the work we 
are given to do. "It is what we think 
and what we do that make us what 
we are." 



THE A. M. A. 

IN June the American Medical As- 
sociation held its annual con- 
vention in this city. The doctors 
came, five thousand strong, held suc- 
cessful meetings in many sections, and 
left behind them the impression of 
being an intelHgent, earnest, and pro- 
gressive class of men. They placed 
themselves squarely on record as ad- 
vocates of pure chemicals, pure food, 
wholesome diet, and the practice of 
temperance and moderation in all things. 
The latest ways in medicine and surgery 
were exhibited and discussed by them, 
evidently with great interest and profit 
to all concerned. 

Thanks to the scientific methods of 
the doctors, in no line of investigation, 
perhaps, has greater progress been made 
than in that of the heahng art. More 
of nature and less of drugs is the keynote 
in all discussions of hygienic living 
to-day. To prescribe improved diet- 
aries, to teach more scientific and sani- 
tary ways of life, is the highest preroga- 
tive of the modern physician. And the 
doctors are trying to keep up with the 
times. What friend more welcome 
ever than a faithful doctor? 

Was it not our own Doctor Franklin, 
though not an M.D., who said long ago, 
"Early to bed and early to rise make 
a man healthy, wealthy, and wise"? 
Here, again, is another and somewhat 
humorous prescription for wise and 
wholesome living. It is an expression, 
also, of the latest phase of thought on 
this all-important subject : — 

"If y^ou do not want the doctor to 
take y^our life, keep away from him. 
Dig daily in the dirt ; get on good terms 
with trees and flowers, birds and grass, 
— thev are your brothers, all ; mix more 



Editorials 



Bi 



with animals and less with men; love 
horses and cows and care for them; be 
extravagant only in the use of fresh air ; 
eat anything you like, but in modera- 
tion; think well of everybody, — even 
doctors, lawyers, and preachers, — for 
they are all acting according to their 
highest light. Keep busy: activity is 
life. The genuine joys of life are to be 
gotten from useful effort, and to hunt 
for pleasure is to lose it. Do your work, 
and pleasure will come to you. Health 
is your due, and will flow to you natu- 
rally if you do not get too anxious 
about it. Gcd is on our side." 



HOME-MAKING 

BEFORE the days of great cities 
the people of this land lived 
more largely in their own 
homes. Family life was more signifi- 
cant. In the towns and villages all 
over New England how many old-time 
mansions and farm-houses are pointed 
out where large and noted families once 
lived! Then the family name was 
cherished and kept unspotted from the 
world. In many cases these places are 
now occupied, if they be frequented at 
all, by strangers and sojourners whose 
chief interests are elsewhere. 

The desirability of building and own- 
ing one's own home is almost beyond 
comprehension. The home is an ex- 
pression of the life and character of 
the builder. It reveals his tastes and 
his ideals. Each of us builds into his 
home what he stands for in life. 

We are glad that a marked tendency 
of the day is a migration from city to 
open 'country rather than from country 
cit3rwards. The ambition of many 
working people to possess a home of 
their own is indicative, at no distant 
day, of better ways of living. City life 
is unnatural and unwholesome. Chil- 
dren especially, like plants, need grow 
up out of doors and in contact with 
earth. Outdoor life, contact with 
nature, are essential to vigor and 



strength, both physical and mental. 
The city-bred child is limited in his 
activities. The country lad becomes 
adept in many kinds of handicraft. 
His acquaintance with field and wood, 
with bird and animal life, is first hand. 
He learns to face the natural conditions 
of life, and in nine cases out of ten to 
win out. 

In the June Century a writer, in a 
striking article on the negro and the 
South, says: "I confidently venture 
the statement that no man can expand 
to his full possibilities in a rented house. 
The Christian virtues blossom in their 
perfection about one's own fireside. 
Every lesson of morality, every elevated 
thought, doubles there its power and 
influence, and this is true of the 
nomad's tent, the negro's cottage, and 
of the homes of the rich and strong. 
Here is the beginning of all good govern- 
ment. The family is the type of the 
State. The men who have learned to 
command their own full powers and 
restrain themselves constitute, when 
united, a community ; and the union of 
communities is the State. As a nation, 
we may bathe our brows in the clouds, 
but we should always warm our feet 
by the fireside of homes." 

In same line of thought the editor of 
a religious weekly writes : — 

'The resurrection of the home is the 
hope of modern times, and there is 
nothing more delightful than the present 
social tendency toward more home- 
making. The struggle to escape the 
crowd and get a chance to build a home 
is a marked feature of the times. In 
the city to create a home is, for the very 
large majority, an impossibility. A 
few can command the situation, but 
the rest must get into the shell of some- 
body else, at so much per month. They 
live and they work without ever having 
built their thoughts even into a house, 
much less into a garden, an orchard, 
and a home. Every human being 
should think out, feel out, grow out, a 
house and a honxe. 



82 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



"Too little is made of this home-grow- 
ing. The key of heaven is the key to 
one's own house. 

"To build right sort of homes should 
be the first lesson of the education that 
takes hold upon oiu* children. The 
end of school work is not erudition, but 
the natural use of our emotions and the 
right development of our tastes. We 
have got wholesomely by the idea that 
religion is to fit us for golden streets. 
Therefore, religion may now go legiti- 
mately farther, and the pulpit may find 
no better topic than a worldly paradise, 
a beautiful home, where good pruposing 
goes with beautiful doing and truthful 
conceiving. We drop the obligation 
to believe correctly as having no more 
religion in it than saying the multiplica- 
tion table, both essential, but neither of 
them substantial piety. Home is the 
real heaven and the end of right re- 
ligion." 



THE LESSON OF THE HOUR 

WHAT with railroad rebates, 
insurance abuses, food adul- 
terations, meat inspection, 
medical abominations,, and the long 
days, the people of this land are passing 
through a very interesting course of 
instruction. Out of it all may much 
good come! Justice and right are of 
far greater consequence than riches and 
power. AVhat people ever;y^vhere are 
longing for and ever striving to attain 
to is fair and honest dealing, man with 
man. If this condition does not now 
prevail, if all people do not have fair 
and equal opportunities to gain a 
hvelihood, why not, and what is the 
remedy thereof? PoHtics are not ex- 
actly in our fine, though matters per- 
taining to economy are of universal 
concern. It will not be amiss to remind 
our readers of the fact that the exist- 
ing state of affairs, the occasion of so 
much investigation and scandal, has 
grown up entirely under our present 
high tariff laws. Would it not be wise 



for people to look thoroughly into the 
economic policy of the nation, and see 
if aught of mischief or wrong be con- 
tained therein? The most important 
questions that confront the people of 
this and other lands to-day are economic 
in character. National and domestic 
economy are closely allied. 



WE use the good things rep- 
resented in the advertising 
pages of the Cooking-School 
Magazine, and we confidently recom- 
mend them to others for use. In- 
variably, these articles are high-classed 
and reliable. Certainly, nothing better 
in way of household suppHes can be 
found in the markets. In purchasing 
your supplies, call for goods and brands 
of goods you have seen represented on 
the pages of this magazine, and you will 
find them highly satisfactory. We 
aim to present in our advertising pages 
none other than things of unquestioned 
merit and excellence. Rarely is any- 
thing mentioned in this magazine that 
our advertisers can not proA'ide. 



In Common Things 

Seek not afar for beauty. Lo! it glows 
In dew-wet grasses all about thy feet; 
Tn birds, in sunshine, childish faces sweet, 

In stars, and mountain summits topped with 
snows. 

Go not abroad for happiness. For, see, 
It is a flower that blossoms by thy door! 
Bring love and justice home, and then no 
more 

Thou'lt wonder in what dweUing joy may be. 

Dream not of noble ser^nce elsewhere wrought : 
The simple duty that awaits thy hand 
Is God's voice uttering a di\ine command; 

Life's common deeds build all that saints 
have thought. 

In wonder-workings, or some bush aflame, 
Men look for God, and fancy him concealed ; 
But in earth's common things he stands 
revealed. 
While grass and flowers and stars spell out 
his name. 

Alinot^J. Savage. 




A Refrigerator Market Basket 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. 
A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a leuel spoonful of such material. 



Cream of Lettuce and Green Pea 
Soup 

Select two large heads of lettuce. 
Remove and wash through several 
waters the outer leaves, leaving the 
hearts for salad. Drain the leaves 
carefully on a cloth. Melt two or three 
tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan. 
In it cook the lettuce leaves ten minutes, 
stirring occasionally, then add a quart 
of boiling water, a leek, or a peeled onion 
with three or four cloves pushed into 
it, a stalk of celery, if at hand, a table- 
spoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
salt, and two sprigs of parsley. Cover 
the pan, and let cook half an hour, 
then add a pint of shelled peas, and let 
cook another half-hour, adding more 
water if needed. Press the whole 
through a sieve (first removing the 



onion and parsley). Add one quart 
of broth, and let simmer. Mix one- 
fourth a cup of flour with half a cup 
of milk to a smooth paste, and stir into 
the soup. Stir until boiling, then let 
simmer ten minutes. Finish with half 
or a whole cup of cream. 

Soft-Shell Crabs, Newburgh 
Carefully dress half a dozen soft- 
shell crabs (see magazine for June-July, 
1905). Wash the crabs in very cold 
water, and dry them on a soft cloth, 
then sprinkle with salt and pepper. 
Melt three or four tablespoonfuls of 
butter in a frying-pan. Put in the 
crabs, side by side, and let cook with 
strong heat, but without burning, 
three minutes, then turn, and cook the 
other side three minutes. If preferred, 



84 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



broil the crabs over the coals. Re- 
move to a hot plate. Add more butter, 
if there be not two tablespoonfuls left 




A Late Summer Breakfast Dish 

in the pan, stir in two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, then, when froth}^, add half a 
cup, each, of milk and thin cream. 
Stir until boiling. Let simmer three 
minutes, then add the crabs. Set the 
dish over hot water, and, when the 
crabs are thoroughly heated, stir in the 
yolks of two eggs, beaten and diluted 
with one-fourth a cup of sherry wine. 
Do not break the crabs when stirring in 
the eggs. 

A Late-summer Breakfast Dish 
Peel three tomatoes, and cut out 



Dispose on a serving-dish. Set above 
each two pieces of tomato, an egg 
carefully poached in salted water, and 
dispose a slice of broiled 
bacon above and below the 
eggs. If preferred, the toma- 
toes may be cooked in the 
oven. 

Green Corn, Creole Style 
Cut the corn from six ears 
of young, tender corn, leaving 
as much of the hull on the 
ears as possible. Add half of 
a green pepper, chopped fine, 
a little grated onion, and three 
peeled tomatoes, cut up fine. Heat the 
whole to the boiling-point, then let 
simmer about fifteen minutes or until 
reduced somewhat. Add meanwhile 
half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
sugar, and, just before removing from 
the fire, two teaspoonfuls of butter. 

Creamed Green Corn 
Peel back the husks, and remove the 
silk from about eight ears of tender 
sweet corn. Replace the husks, and 
set the corn to cook in boiling salted 
water. After twentv minutes remove 




Materials for Cream of Lettuce and Green Pea Soup 

the hard piece around the stem end. the corn, take off the husks, score the 

Set in a well-oiled broiler, and cook kernels lengthwise with a sharp knife, 

over a rather dull fire until hot through- and then press out the pulp from the 

out, turning often to avoid burning, hulls. Have ready for each generous 



Seasonable Recipes 



85 



cup of pulp a scant cup of sauce, made 
of two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter 
and flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and pepper, and a cup of 
cream. Let the corn 
stand in the sauce 
over hot water five 
minutes, then serve in 
a hot dish. 



Sweetbreads Alice 

(Adapted from Recipe in "The International 
Cook Book," by Filippini) 

Soak six heart sweetbreads in cold 



Chicken Bechamel in 
Potato Patty Cases 
Cut cooked chicken 
into small cubes, and 
season lightly with 
salt, paprika, and 
celery salt. For a cup 
and a third of chicken 
melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
cook in it two tablespoonfuls of flour 
and one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, 
of salt and paprika. When frothy, 
stir in half a cup, each, of cream 
and chicken broth. Stir until boiling, 
then add the chicken, and let stand 
over hot water until ready to serve. 
Have about three cups of mashed 
potato, seasoned with cream or milk 
and butter, salt, and a little pepper. 
The potato should 
not be too moist, 
just moist enough to 
flow through a star 
tube without break- 
ing. On a buttered 
baking-sheet spread 
thin rounds of po- 
tato, then pipe more 
potato on to these to 
form cases. Simply 
build with stars of 
potato, as if using 
burrs for a basket. 
Brush over the cases 
with beaten yolk of 
egg, and set into a 
hot oven until the 
edges are browned. 
Remove with a spatula to individual 
plates, fill with the chicken mixture, 
and serve at once. 




Chicken in Potato Patty Cases 

water two hours. Drain, and plunge 
into two quarts of boiling water, to 
which a tablespoonful of salt has been 
added. After five minutes take from 
the water, drain, and trim neatly. 
With a fine larding-needle draw four 
lardoons of fat pork into each sw^eet- 
bread, and lay them, side by side, in 
a covered baking-dish. Sprinkle them 
with a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea- 
spoonful of paprika, and a grating of 




Sweetbreads Alice 



nutmeg. Add a cup and a half of 
cream and two cups of milk, cover the 
pan, and heat the whole to the boiling- 



86 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



point on the top of the range. Let 
simmer ten minutes, then add twelve 
mushroom caps, carefully cleaned and 




Steamed Fowl with Creole Rice 

peeled, and let cook fifteen minutes. 
Knead (cream) a level tablespoonful 
of butter with a level tablespoonful of 
flour, and gently stir, little by little, 
into the hot liquid without breaking the 
sweetbreads. Cut out six rounds of 
bread to fit under glass ' 'mushroom 
bells." Toast the bread, and set in 
place on round egg ' 'shirrers." On 
each piece of toast set a sweetbread 




the shirrers around the bells. Let the 
dishes stand on the top of the range 
until the sauce boils, then bake ten 
minutes. Send to 
the table without re- 
moving the bells. 

Steamed Fowl with 
Creole Rice 

Truss the fowl 
neatly, set on the rack 
in the steam kettle, 
and cook about four 
hours or until tender. 
Sprinkle with salt 
when nearly cooked. 
Put a cup of washed 
rice, a cup of the chicken broth, two 
cups of tomato puree, a green pepper, 
chopped fine, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
a cup of boiling water over the fire in 
a close-covered saucepan, and let cook 
until no bubbles of steam or liquid 
escape between the cover and sauce- 
pan. Remove the cover, and, after 
drying off the rice, turn it onto a 
serving-dish. Put the fowl above it, 
and pour a caper sauce 
over it. 



Chicken Croquettes, Roosevelt 

and two mushroom caps, then put the 
''bells" in place. Pour the sauce into 



Chicken Croquettes, 
Roosevelt 

(From the "International 
Cook Book,''' Filippini) 

Detach the legs and 
breast of a two-and- 
a-half-pound, tender 
chicken, and remove 
the skin. Place the 
legs in a saucepan 
with a pint of white 
broth and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and 
let cook until tender 
(about twenty-five 
minutes). Drain, then 
cut the meat into 
quarter -inch squares. 
Cut also into pieces of 
the same size two ounces of cooked, 
lean ham, one ounce of cooked, smoked 



Seasonable Recipes 



87 




beef tongue, and one truffle. Cut six end of each, fill the centre with parsley 
peeled, fresh mushroom caps into branches, and sen.^e with a supreme 
quarter-inch pieces, and fry and toss sauce separately, 
them in a tablespoonful 
of butter five minutes, 
then add to the other in- 
gredients. Remove the 
sinews from the breast of 
the chicken, then scrape 
the meat from the fibres, 
and pound it in a mortar 
until smooth, then con- 
tinue pounding while add- 
ing three egg yolks, one 
at a time. Pound the 
mixture smooth each time 
an egg is added before the 
next one is broken into the 
mixture. Pour in a cup of 
thick cream, a tablespoon- 
ful of mushroom liquor, and two table- 
spoonfuls of sherry. Season with a 
level teaspoonful of salt, half a tea- 
spoonful (?) of cayenne, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and mix 
thoroughly. Then strain over the bits 
of chicken, mushroom, etc. Mix all to- 
gether thoroughly, then cover wdth a 
buttered paper. Set the dish in a 
larger one, and pour in boiling water 
to half the height of 
the pan. Set into the 
oven, with the door 
open, for fifteen min- 
utes, then remove, 
and let become cool. 
Divide the mixture 
into twelve equal 
parts, and give these 
the shape of cutlets. 
Dip each in melted 
butter, then roll them 
in freshly prepared 
bread crumbs. Heat 
two tablespoonfuls of 
clarified butter in a 
frying-pan, lay in the 
cutlets, side by side, 
and fry six minutes on each side. Dress ming occasionally. Cook three table- 
on a dish crown-like, one overlapping spoonfuls of flour in two tablespoonfuls 
another. Adjust a fancy frill at the of melted butter. Strain half of the 



Egg, Tomato-and-Green-Pepper Salad 

Sauce Supreme 
Cut the remnants of uncooked chicken 
in small pieces. Put them in a sauce- 
pan with a sliced onion, a sliced leek^ 
one branch, each, of parsley, chervil, 
and celery, a quart of water, half a 
cup of white wine, half a teaspoonful 
of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
cayenne, and a grating of nutmeg. 
Let simmer fortv-five minutes. skim- 




Beaten Biscuit and Utensils for making Them 



88 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



broth through a cheese-cloth, and add 
to the butter and flour, stirring con- 
stantly until the sauce boils. Then 




Peaches, Melba Style 

reduce, by slow cooking, to half the 
quantity. Dilute the beaten yolk of 
an egg with half a cup of cream, and 
add to the sauce. Let cook without 
boiling until the egg is set. 

Egg, Tomato-and-Green Pepper 
Salad 

Cut two hard-boiled eggs into length- 
wise quarters and three peeled toma- 
toes into eight sections, each. Cut 



Above dispose the tomatoes and eggs. 
Pour over the whole a generous half- 
cup of well-mixed French dressing. 
Sprinkle with the green 
pepper, and serve at once. 
Mayonnaise may be 
served in a bowl apart, 
if desired. 

Southern Beaten Biscuit 
Sift together three cups 
of flour, one-eighth a tea- 
spoonful of soda, and one 
teaspoonful (scant meas- 
ure) of salt. Work in a 
level tablespoonful of lard, 
then add one tablespoon- 
ful of buttermilk and 
cold water, as required to 
make a very stiff dough. 
Pass the dough through 
a roller, made for the purpose, until 
it is full of tiny blisters. Use no more 
flour in rolling than is needed to keep 
the dough from adhering to the ma- 
chine. Cut the dough in rounds (the 
cutter comes with the roller, and pricks 
the dough), and bake in a very mod- 
erate oven. 

Peaches, Melba Style 
Select large choice peaches. Cut 





Hi 


f 

i 


2 


^^H 













Cantaloupe Elegant 



also a green pepper into thin shreds. 
Rub a salad bowl with the cut side of 
half a clove of garlic, and put into it 
the heart leaves of two heads of lettuce. 



them in halves, and cook in a syrup 
made of sugar, equal in weight to the 
peaches, and a cup of water to each 
pound of sugar. Remove the peaches 



Seasonable Recipes 



89 




as soon as they are tender. Let the of cherries and the halves of four 

syrup cook until very thick, then add apricots were used. The cherries were 

maraschino as suits the-^ taste. Have stoned, and the apricots peeled and 

ready a sponge cake, 

cooked in a ring mould. 

Pour the cooled syrup 

over it, set the chilled 

peaches above, and fill 

the hollows of the 

peaches with vanilla 

ice-cream. 

Cantaloupe Elegant 
Cut very small 
chilled melons in 
halves, lengthwise, and 
remove the seeds. 
Then carefully remove 
the edible portion, and 
cut this into pieces of the same size. 
Mix lightly with sugar, and return with 
the shells to the ice-chest until the 
moment of serving. The melons should 
not be cut longer than five or six 
minutes before serving. Set the melon 
shells on paper doilies on individual 
plates. Put in a spoonful or two of 
the prepared melon, above this a large 
spoonful of vanilla ice-cream, pour over 
a tablespoonful of currant jelly sauce, 
and sprinkle the whole with chopped 
pistachio nuts. To 
make the currant jelly 
sauce, melt a tumbler 
of jelly in a cup of 
boiling water, stir 
until smooth, and add 
a tablespoonful of 
lemon juice (also, 
when cold, two of 
Curasao, if desired). 



Cherry Pudding, 

Cold Sabayon 

Sauce, Royal 

For this pudding 
one or several kinds 
of fruit may be used, 
may be either cooked 



Cherry Pudding, Cold Sabayon Sauce, Royal 



cut in pieces. Cut four ounces of stale 
sponge cake in small pieces. Beat 
three eggs and the yolks of three more. 
Add half a cup of sugar and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and beat again. Then 
pour on three cups of rich milk. Line 
the mould, if a plain one, with paper, then 
butter the paper very thoroughly. If 
an ornamental mould be used, butter 
it thickly, then dredge with sugar. Use 
part of the fruit to form a pattern on 
the bottom of the mould, then put in 




and the fruit 
or raw. For 
a quart mould of the pudding a cup 



Peach Shortcake 

bits of cake and fruit until all has been 
used. Pour in the custard mixture, set 
the mould on a dozen or more thick- 



90 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Cake Basket decorated with Ornamental Icing 
by Mrs. Jean Houston, Alabama 

nesses of paper, surround with boiling 
water, and let bake until firm in 
the centre. Unmould when cold, and 
serve with 

Cold Sabayon Sauce, Royal 
Beat one whole egg and two yolks 



until well mixed. Add half a cup of 
sugar and a few grains of salt, and beat 
again. Then add half a cup of sherry 
wine, and set over hot water. Stir 
constantly while the mixture thickens. 
When thick as heavy cream, remove 
from the fire. Add a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice, and beat until cold. Set 
aside in a cold place until serving time, 
then cut and fold in from half to three- 
fourths a cup of double cream, beaten 
solid. Both the pudding and sauce 
should be very cold when served. This 
sauce may be frozen, and served as 
Sabayon Parfait. Use the whites of 
eggs left from the pudding and sauce 
for angel cake, meringues, or prune 
souffle. 

Peach Shortcake 
Sift together, three times, three cups 
of flour, six level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
Work in a generous half a cup of short- 
ening, then mix to a dough with milk. 
Spread the dough, w4th a spoon, in 
two, buttered, jelly-cake pans, and bake 
about eighteen minutes. Have ready 
two dozen choice, mellow peaches, 
pared and cut in slices, then mixed with 
a cup and a half of sugar (more sugar 
may be needed). Let the prepared 
peaches stand in a warm but not hot 




Seasonable Recipes 



91 



place while the cake is baking. Turn 
one layer of cake onto a serving-dish, 
spread liberally with butter, then with 
the prepared peaches cover with the 
second layer of cake. Spread this with 
butter, and then with peaches. Sift 
powdered sugar over the peaches, and 
serve at once with a pitcher of cream. 

Peach Cup 
Pare and stone enough peaches to 
make a pint of pulp when the fruit is 
pressed through a sieve or potato ricer. 
To this pulp add one cup of sugar, the 
juice of a lemon, and one pint of 
rich cream. Freeze as any ice-cream. 
Have ready, chilled, four or five choice, 
mellow peaches. Pare and cut these 
in small pieces. Add two oranges, 
chilled, peeled, seeded, and cut in small 
pieces, and two small, very ripe bananas, 
peeled, scraped, and cut in small pieces 
of uniform size. Mix the fruit with one- 
third a cup of sugar. Part of a very 
ripe pineapple may be used instead of 
the bananas. While it adds to the 
expense of the dish, the combination 
of flavors is particularly agreeable. 
Put a tablespoonful of fruit in the bot- 
tom of a flaring champagne or a tall 
wine glass, and over it dispose a spoon- 
ful or more of the peach ice-cream. 
Finish with fine-chopped pistachio 
nuts or a maraschino cherry. 

Peach Cup, No. 2 
Prepare the fruit as above. Make 
a peach sherbet of a cup and a half of 
peach pulp, the juice of three oranges 
and one lemon, and the syrup made by 
boiling one quart of water and one pint 
of sugar twenty' minutes. Have the 
syrup cold before the fruit juice is 
added to it. Beat one cup of cream, 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a 



teaspoonful of vanilla until firm. Put 
the fruit in the glass, cover with a large 
spoonful of sherbet, and pipe a little of 
the cream above. 

Peach Cocktail 
Have ready choice peaches, thor- 
oughly chilled. Pare, cut into length- 
wise slices, and these into two or three 
pieces. Sprinkle lightly with pow- 
dered sugar, a little syrup from a jar 
of vanilla or lemon marrons or with 
cold, sugar syrup. Add maraschino 
or Kirsch at discretion. Into chilled 
champagne glasses or sherbet cups 
put one preserved chestnut (marron). 
Over this put a spoonful of the pre- 
pared peaches, and serve at once. The 
peaches should not be very sweet. 

Cucumbers Romaine 
Peel two large green cucumbers. 
Cut them in quarters, discarding the 
seed portion, then slice into salted 
water. Let stand fifteen or twenty 
minutes, then drain, and set to cook in 
boiling water. Prepare a cup of to- 
mato sauce, using two tablespoonfuls, 
each, of butter and flour, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of salt, and one cup of 
tomato puree. When the cucumbers 
have cooked half an hour, drain, rinse 
in cold water, and drain again. In a 
buttered au gratin dish put a little 
sauce. Add half the cucumbers, 
sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and 
two tablespoonfuls or more of grated 
Parmesan or other cheese. Add a little 
more sauce, the rest of the cucumbers, 
with seasoning and cheese, then the 
rest of the sauce. Stir half a cup of 
cracker crumbs into three tablespoon- 
fuls of melted butter, and spread over 
the whole. Let bake about twenty- 
five minutes in a moderate oven. 



Some Mexican Recipes 

By Rose Russell 



CUT a kid in small pieces, and 
put these into a saucepan in 
which are two tablespoonfuls 
of butter and one of lard made 
very hot. Add two tomatoes and one 
onion chopped very fine, two cloves, 
half a small bay leaf, tv/o teaspoonfuls 
of salt and one of pepper. Cover very 
tight, and let cook until tender, which 
will be in about one hour. Then add 
a cup of hot water, and thicken with 
flour. Serve with boiled rice. If toma- 
toes are not procurable, use about half 
a teaspoonful of vinegar. 

Another good way, which makes a dish 
very like fried chicken, is to cut the kid 
in small pieces, and let soak in strongly 
salted water for an hour; wipe each 
piece carefully, dredge with flour, and 
fry in plenty of lard until a golden 
brown. It must be fried slowly, to be 
cooked thoroughly, and, when served 
with milk gravy, is a perfect substitute 
for fried chicken. Diluted condensed 
cream may be used for the gravy. 

All goat meat, with the exception of 
kid, should be soaked in salted water, in 
which is a little vinegar, for about an 
hour. Then put on to cook in fresh 
water, in which are a pinch of soda, a 
small stick of cinnamon, and a few 
cloves. By this treatment all the ob- 
jectionable strong flavor is eliminated. 

Goat meat can be cooked in any of 
the ways mutton is cooked except 
roasting. It is too tough for roasting. 
Two very good ways are the pot roast 
and Irish stew. 

For the first about three or four 
pounds of the thick part of the leg is 
best. Put in a saucepan with a whole 
onion, tomato, and piece of garlic. 
Cover close, and let brown on all sides. 



When brown, add enough water to 
nearly cover it, about two teaspoonfuls 
of salt, and a few pepper-corns. Cover, 
and cook until the water is reduced one- 
half. The meat will be tender then. 
Take up the meat, thicken the gravy, 
strain, and pour it over the meat. 

For Irish stew take about three or 
four pounds of the meat, cut in pieces, 
and stew until nearly tender. Add 
about three large potatoes, cut in 
quarters, and two large onions, cut 
small, which have been previously 
boiled in two waters, salt and pepper to 
taste, — also one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
thyme, sage, or marjoram. Marjoram 
is the best, but sage can always be 
procured. 

In these last recipes let it be re- 
membered that the meat must be pre- 
pared first by soaking and boiling a 
little while, as previously indicated. 

When pots are covered, the meat 
becomes tender more quickly. 

The best way to cook dried meat is 
to soak it in water three or four hours. 
Then cut it into two-inch pieces. Stew 
these in a very little water until soft- 
ened; then shred, put in a frying-pan 
with a little lard or butter, a small 
chopped onion, tomato, and piece of 
green pepper. Brown slightly; add 
sufficient water to moisten well, pepper 
and salt to taste, and cook half an hour. 
Pour over toast or fried bread. A little 
milk, butter, or condensed cream, is an 
addition. 

Another way is to beat three eggs; 
add one cup of shredded meat, pepper 
and salt, and a little chopped onion. 
Then cook like scrambled eggs. 

In all these recipes, if onions are not 
to be had, use a very little garlic. 




Picnic and Camping Menus 

Picnic Luncheons 

*'E\ft miUsummer montf) ts tlje gollrcn prime 
JFor i}a2cacks smelling of clober anlJ tijgmc," 

"%n'ii t\)txt, mrrrilg scatelf in a ring, 
partook a cfjoice repast." — Massinger. 

I. 

Cold Broiled Squab. 
Tomatoes, French Dressing. Sardine Eclairs. 
Graham Bread-a^jd-Butter Sandwiches. 

Entire Wheat-and-Pecan Nut Sandwiches. 
Lemon Cheese Cakes. Brownies. 
Cold Coffee. Lemonade. 

11. 

Joints of Cold Roast Chicken. 

Potato Salad. Peach Mangoes. 

Deviled Ham Sandwiches. Salad Rolls, Buttered. 

Apple Turnovers. Neufchaiel Cheese. 

Hot Coffee. 

III. 

Cold Broiled Lamb Chops (with Frill). 
Stuffed Eggs. Green Pea Salad (French Dressing). 
Baking-powder Biscuit and Butter Sandwiches. 

Bread, Butter, and Currajstt Jelly SANDwncHES. 
Stuffed Prunes. Peaches. Tea Punch. 

IV. 

Cold Pigeon Pie. Deviled Ham Eclairs. 

Sardine S.andwiches. Rye Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

Olives. Pickled Beets. Potato Salad (with Anchovies). 

Portsmouth Peach Cake. 

Hot Coffee. 

V. 

Bacon Sandwiches. Cold Welsh Rabbit Sandwiches. 

Eggs, Green Corn, and New Potatoes Roasted in Hot Ashes. New Pickles. 

Oatmeal Macaroons. ' Africans. Cold Spiced Tea. 



Camp Dinners 

**|§ohj siweet, f)oi» passing sbett is salitutie! 
But grant me still a frientj \\\ mg retreat, 
®2Iljom 31 mag biljisper, ^olitutie is %\atti''—Cowper. 

I. 

Brook Trout and Potatoes Rolled in Wet Paper and Cooked ln Hot Ashes. 

Canned Ox Tongue. 
Corn-meal Bread, Hunter's Style (Baked with Bits of Bacon on Top). 
Stuffed Prunes. Nut Meats. 
Hot Coffee. 

11. 

Partridge Roasted in its Feathers (in Hot Ashes). 

Boston Baked Beans (Baked in Stone-lined Hole under the Camp Fire). 

Tomato Ketchup. Flapjacks, Sugar Syrup. Hot Coffee. 



Vegetarian Menus for One Week in August 

"Let the sky rain potatoes." — Merry Wives of Windsor. 

" Feed him with apricots and dewberries; 
With purple grapes, green figs, and mulberries." — Midsummer-Nighf s Dream. 



iz: 

D 

CO 



^reakfsLst 

Sliced Peaches. 

Malt Breakfast Food. 

Eggs Shirred with Bread Crumbs and Cream. 

New Rye-meal Biscuit (Yeast). 

Cereal Coffee. 

'Dinner 

Cream-of-Lima Bean Soup. 

Boiled Cauliflower, Cheese Sauce. 

Lettuce and Tomatoes, French Dressing. 

Peach Ice-cream. 

Sponge Cake. Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Toasted. 

Blackberries. Cocoa. 



*Brea.kfa.st 

Grape-nuts, Baked Apples, Cream. 

Green Pepper Omelet. 

Yeast Rolls. Corn-meal Muffins. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Golden Buck. Lettuce-and-Celery Salad. 

Pineapple with SKced Peaches, Sugared. 

Coffee. 

'Dinner 

Cream-of-Corn Soup. 

Southern Beaten Biscuit. 

Nut Loaf, Tomato Sauce. Baked Bananas. 

Cocoanut, Rice, and Raisin Pudding 

(Baked Slowly). 

Black Coffee. 





'Bre^kUsi 


"Bre^kfiist 






Grapes. Baltimore Samp, Cream. 


Grape-nuts, Cream. 






Scrambled Eggs. 


Green Corn Fritters. Broiled Tomatoes. 






French Bread. 


Muskmelons. Cereal Coffee. 






Cereal Coffee. 


Luncheon 




< 


Luncheon 


Boiled Onions, Buttered. 


Cheese Custard. 


Banana-and-Pecan Nut Salad. 


a 


Mayonnaise of Cauliflower. 


Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Toasted. 


50 


o 


Stuffed Apples, Baked. Cream. Tea. 


Cocoa. 


CO 




% 


^Dinner 


iHnner 


> 




Stewed Cranberry Beans, Buttered. 


Fruit Cocktail. 






Tomato-and-Egg Salad. 


Cheese Soufll^, Cream Sauce. 






Rye-meal Muffins. 


Summer Squash. Lettuce-jind-Celery Salad. 






Bread Pudding, Hard Sauce. 


Peach Ice-cream. Sponge Cake. 






Black Coffee. 


Black Coffee. 





< 

CO 



"Breakfast 

Muskmelons. 

Barley Crystals, Cream. 

Broiled Tomatoes with Poached Eggs, Cream 

Sauce. Dry Toast. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

August Sweets Baked (Apples). 

Bread and Milk. 

Squash Pie. 

^nner 

Lima Beans Baked with Olive Oil. 

Cucumber Salad. Graham Bread. 

Peach Shortcake. 

Neufch^tel Cheese. 

Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Melons. Malt Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Shirred Eggs. Creamed Green Corn on Toast. 

German Coffee Cake. Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Eggs Scrambled with Cheese. Olives. Celery. 

Floating Island. 

(Sponge Cake, Jelly, Custard.) Tea. 

"Dinner 

SHced Peaches. 

Green Corn Custard. Stewed Cucumbers. 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Tomatoes. 

Apple-and-Tapioca Pudding. 

Vanilla Ice-cream. 
White Cake. Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Stewed Apples. 

Grape-nuts, Cream. 

Broiled Tomatoes. 

Green Corn Griddle-cakes. 

Dry Toast. Rolls. 

Cereal Coffee. Cocoa. 



Luncheon 

Savory Rice Croquettes, 

Cheese Sauce. 

Apple Pie, Cream. 

Cocoa. 



"Dinner 

Cream-of-Tomato Soup. 
Egg Timbales, Bread Sauce. 

Buttered String Beans. 

Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Scalloped Apples, Hard Sauce. 

Black Coffee. 



Menus for Second Week in August. 

it is your duty above all things to see that your food is in harmony with place and season." — The Feasts of Aulolycus. 



o 



^rea.kfa.si 

Melons. 

Baltimore Samp, Maple Syrup, Cream. 

Boiled Eggs in the Shell. 

Salad Rolls, Reheated. 

Coffee. 

^nner 

Roast Squabs. 

Creamed Potatoes. Broiled Egg Plants. 

Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 

Peach Cup. Angel Cakelets. 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Creamed Shrimps. 

Olives. Crackers. 

Sliced Peaches. Wafers. Tea. 



^resikfiLst 

Sliced Peaches, Hot Shredded Wheat Biscuit, 

Cream. 

Broiled Lamb Chops. Baked Potatoes. 

Yeast Biscuit. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cucumbers Romaine. 

New Rye Bread (Fresh Baked). 

Beets Stuffed with Mayonnaise of Peas. 

Coffee Jelly. 

^nner 

Peach Cocktail. 
Baked Bluefish, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Cucumbers, French Dressing. 

Mashed Potatoes. Summer Squash. 

Water Crackers. Cream Cheese. New Celery. 

Black Coffee. 



Blackberries. Gluten Grits, Cream. 

Frizzled Dried Beef. New Potatoes, Baked. 

Dry Toast. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Creamed Corn. 

Tomato, Egg-and-Green Pepper Salad. 

Bread^and Butter. Tea. 

'Dinner 

Lettuce Soup. 

Broiled Breast of Young Lamb, Maitre 

d'H6tel Butter. 

Parisienne Potatoes. Broiled Egg Plant. 

Cold Stringless Beans, French Dressing. 

Blackberry Sponge, Cream. Sugar. 

Black Coffee. 



^rea.kfa.si 

Melons. 

Broiled Tomatoes. Poached Eggs. 

Broiled Bacon. 

German Coffee Cake. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Bluefish Salad. Pickled Beet Decoration. 

Graham Bread and Butter. 

Grapes. 

^Dinner 
Boned Leg of Lamb, Stuffed and Roasted, 

Mint Sauce. 

Candied Sweet Potatoes. Mashed Turnips. 

Tomatoes, French Dressing. 

Royal Cream Whips (Grape Juice). 

Sponge Cakelets. Black Coffee. 



breakfast 

Sliced Peaches. 

Barley Crystals, Cream. 

Potato, Lamb-and-Green Pepper Hash. 

Broiled Tomatoes. 

DryTToast. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Boiled CauUflower, Hollandaise Sauce. 
Peach Shortcake. Coffee. 

^nner 

Hamburg Steak. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Baked Tomatoes. Corn on the Cob. 

Peach Sherbet. Coffee. 



^rea.kfAst 

Blackberries. 

Malt Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Broiled Ham. Parsley Omelet. 

Broiled Potatoes. 

Southern Beaten Biscuit. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Stewed Cranberry Beans, Buttered. 

Steamed Blackberry Pudding, 

Blackberry Hard Sauce. Tea. 

^nner 

Peach Cocktail. 

Boiled Swordfish, Egg Sauce. 

Lettuce Salad. Boiled Potatoes. 

Cucumbers au Gratin. 

Blushing Apples with Orange Sauce. 

Black Coffee. 






H 






breakfast 

Malt Breakfast Food. 
Baked Apples, Cream. 
Cold Boiled Ham, Shced 

Thin. 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk. 

Pickled Beets. Kaiser Rolls. Cocoa. 



Luncheon 

Lettuce, Swordfish-and- 

Green Pepper Salad. 

Graham Bread and Butter. 

Huckleberry Pie. 

Coffee. 



Dinner 

Tomato Bouillon. Celery. 

Cold Roast Lamb, Sliced 

Thin. 

Delmonico Potatoes. 

Lima Beans, Hollandaise. 

Peach Ice-cream. 



Menus for Third Week in September 

"Those who understand eating are comparatively four years younger than those ignorant of that science.' 

Brillai-Savarin. 



BreakfsLsi 

Grapes. 
Oysters Roasted in their Shells. 
Boston Brown Bread, Toasted, Spread -udth 
Anchovy Butter, Olives. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Veal Broth \\-ith Macaroni Rings. 

Partridge Roasted in Grape Leaves and 

Bacon, Bread Sauce. 

Cauliflower au Gratin. Lettuce Salad. 

Peach Cup. Waldorf Triangles. 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Creamed Chicken and Celery (Chafing-dish). 
Iced Rounds of Sponge Cake Rolled in Cocoa- 
nut. Sliced Peaches. 



^reakf^isi 

Gluten Grits. Baked Pears. 

Broiled Honeycomb Tripe. 

Delmonico Potatoes. 

French Bread, Toasted. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Curried Veal. Boiled Rice. 

Peach Mangoes. 

Lemon Cheese Cakes. Tea. 

Dinner 

Tomato Soup (Veal Bones, etc.). 

Partridge Pie. Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Broiled Egg Plant. 

Grape Juice Frappe. 

Oatmeal Macaroons. Black Coffee. 



'Breakfa.st 

Malt Breakfast Food. Hot Apple Sauce. 

Supreme of Salt Codfish. 

Baked Potatoes. Shced Tomatoes. 

Dry Toast. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Stuffed Egg Plant, Baked. 

Mayonnaise of Celery. 

Salad Rolls (Reheated). Watermelon. 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Spinach Soup, Croutons. 

Roast Veal, Bread Dressing. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Boiled Okra, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Melon Mangoes. 

Delmonico Pudding with Peaches. 

Black Coffee. 



^rea.kfa.si 

Toasted Wheat, Sliced Peaches, Cream. 

Partridge in Bechamel Sauce on Toast. 

Graham Biscuit (Yeast), Reheated. 

Cocoa. 

Dinner 

Cream-of-String Bean Soup. 

Stuffed Veal Heart, Brown Sauce. 

Corn on the Cob. 

Candied Sweet Potatoes. Beet Salad. 

Steamed Blackberry Pudding, 

Blackberry Hard Sauce. Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Creamed Oysters. Baking-powder Biscuit. 

New Cranberry Sauce. 

Oatmeal Macaroons. Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Hot Shredded WTieat Biscuit, Blackberries, 

Cream. 

Omelet with Brown Stew of Kidneys. 

Zwieback. Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Succotash. 

Waffles with Strawberry Preserves. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Clam Broth. 

Broiled Swordfish, Maitre d' Hotel Butter. 

New Pickles. Mashed Potatoes. 

Scalloped or Broiled Tomatoes. 

Hot Apple Pie, Peach Ice-cream. 

Black Coffee. 



'=Breakfasi 

Melons. Gluten Grits, Cream. 
Hot Sardines on Toast, Cream Sauce. 

Eggs ail Miroir. 
German Coffee Cake. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Corn or Clam Chowder. 

Lettuce and Tomato Salad. 

Cottage Cheese. Apple Pie. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Boiled Haddock, Egg Sauce, or 

Broiled Sirloin Steak, Bernaise Sauce. 

Plain Boiled Potatoes or French Fried 

Potatoes. Scalloped Squash au Gratin. 

Tapioca Baked ^^^th Apples. 

Lemon Ice-cream. Black Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Malt Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Corned Beef Hash, Bacon. 

Cream Toast. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Grapes. 



Luncheon 

Watermelon. 

. Cold Corned Beef, 

Shced Thin. 

Creamed Celery au Gratin. 

Baked Rice Pudding. 

Tea. 



Dinner 

Breaded Lamb Chops, 

Tomato Sauce. 

Green Corn Custard, Mexican 

Style. Celery Salad. 

Blackberry Parfait with Sugared 

Blackberries. Angel Cake. 

Black Coffee. 



After Breakfast Chat 



By Janet M. Hill 

"It is not so much the rate of speed in movement as in the abiUty to make each motion tell." 

• Our wasted oil unprofitably burns, 
Like hidden lamps in old sepulchral urns." 



SOME ©ne writes: ' 'Do tell us how 
to get along without cooking in 
summer. Give us some menus 
for meals that will satisfy our families, 
and yet will not compel us to have a 
fire three times a day." We will try 
and give some suggestions that may 
help lighten summer cooking; but does 
our subscriber really wish to eliminate 
all cooking in summer ? Let her make 
the case her own. If she were going 
away to board for a month in summer, 
where wouli she choose to go, — to a 
' 'paper-bag housekeeper" or to a place 
where an ample vegetable garden, 
chickens, and Jerseys were kept? In- 
deed, of two places in the country, 
one with a woodpile in the background, 
the other with yawning woodshed and 
no wood in evidence, which would she 
prefer ? 

A young woman of foreign birth, 
wife of an artist, whose ideas on prac- 
tical, every-day matters were extremely 
limited, — noting a private kitchen 
equipped with coal and gas ranges, — said 
in her earnest foreign tone : ' 'You 
have more than your share of cook- 
ing-stoves. I have none." ' 'But you 
board, do you not?" ' 'Oh, no, we live 
in the studio." ' 'But how do you 
cook?" ''We do not cook: we have 
salads, olive oil, lettuce, and figs; but 
sometimes I do not wish oil, and would 
like to have a stove." 



People do not require as iftuch food 
or as heavy food in summer as in 
winter, but even in the family of two 
the getting of the meals must be made 
the business of some one who will give 
it due amount of attention in winter and 
in summer. 

Give thought to the planning of the 
meals. When a cool day comes, take 
advantage of it. Cook enough for two 
days. For a change make a pie. It 
is not the season for pastry, perhaps, 
but an apple pie made of early August 
apples will be hailed with enthusiasm 
enough to atone for everything. Plan 
to do the cooking as far as it is practical 
in the early morning. Let the break- 
fast be generous, then the other meals 
may be lighter. It does not take long- 
coriiinued heat to broil a steak or 
fish, scramble eggs, or make an omelet. 
Don't forget to include the element of 
surprise in your meals. If hot tea be 
the common occurrence, have well- 
made iced tea (iced by contact with 
ice, not by putting ice into it) when 
a particularly hot day comes. Don't 
ask if it will be acceptable. Unless you 
know it is positively distasteful, try it. 

Bread and biscuit mixed at night, 
using one-third a cake of compressed 
yeast to a pint of liquid, may be baked 
while breakfast is being cooked, and, 
so great is the satisfaction of know- 
ing there is good wholesome bread in 



98 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the house, one should not begrudge 
the few minutes of time and the fire 
ijeeded to get things ready at night, 
nor the hour of baking in the morning. 
A small kerosene stove is not a costly 
article, and it comes in most handily 
when a little milk or water is to be 
heated quickly. After one has become 
accustomed to the use of gas or elec- 
tricity in cooking, the motions necessary 
to produce heat by kindling a wood 
fire seem burdensome, and the time 
consumed makes one question if the 
result be worth while. 

Really the one thing needful is not 
so much menus, which at best can be 
only suggestive, as brains and a willing- 
ness to use them in planning short cuts 
in our work. One should spend many 
hours of these summer days in the open 
air, and it can be done with fourfold 
pleasure, if one be filled with the con- 
sciousness that the meals of the day 
have been fittingly planned for. Of 
course, it takes time to get meals — 
even well-planned ones — onto the 
table. We have heard women say 
that a meal for four people should be 
prepared in twenty minutes; but the 
woman who does her own work, day in 
and day out, and wishes to avoid hurry 
and come to the table in a proper state 
of mind and body to partake of the 
meal which she has prepared, should 
allow one hour for dinner and three- 
quarters of an hour for the other meals 
of the day. Then without undue haste 
(sometimes, not always) the dishes used 
in preparing the meal can be washed 
while the meal is being prepared, and 
the after-meal work need not be 
dreaded. 

Know what you are going to do before 
you enter the kitchen, then go straight 
to the mark without dallying. Fuel 
and precious time are often wasted, 
while one is trying to make up her mind 
what she will do. Then, worn out in 
trying to find something easy to make, 
calling for nothing tangible in the way 
of ingredients and little cooking, the 



matter is given up, and the grocer is 
telephoned to bring something in the 
inevitable paper bag. We fail to see 
any satisfaction in this kind of house- 
keeping. Housekeeping is a business 
to be conducted in summer and in 
winter. To be always equal to it, take 
a holiday of t^li-and. give the same to 
those in your employ. Do not stagnate. 
Initiate new projects in your business. 
Rejoice m it. Avoid overwork and 
overheat, but keep up your interest. 
We love those people and things for 
which we expend our efforts. 



Though August gives us only a hint 
of the good things October has in store 
for us, it is itself a month of volup- 
tuous plenty. The whole country 
revels in tomatoes and peaches, and 
the heat of the summer sun, which 
has given the tomato its vivid red and 
the peach its delicate pink-and-white 
tints, has supplied therein all the cook- 
ing needful. Let the cooking of these 
be but for diversity in servdng and for 
preservation, when their season is past. 

Apples — ^August Sweets, Early Au- 
gusts, Marguerites, and Red^ Astrakhans 
— are ripe, and very welcome are they 
after a long absence. For a ten o'clock 
luncheon, when the little folk are 
clamoring for a cake, give them nicely 
pared, mellow apples, and at night for 
supper have ready well-prepared apple 
sauce, if heating the oven be an im- 
pediment to baked apples. In the 
country, cottage cheese may be had 
for the making. This cheese, rich in 
protein, with cooked apples and bread, 
and, perchance, a cup of milk or cocoa, 
will furnish many a hearty, tempting 
meal, with a minimum of work and heat. 
Pears, plums, and grapes, all at their 
best uncooked, tempt us to forget 
for the moment the luscious canta- 
loupe and showy watermelon, now 
in their glory. It were certainly a 
culinary sin to cook any of these al- 
ready ripened to perfection ; for cook- 
ing and ripening are synonymous. In 



My Mother's Cooky Jar 



99 



vegetables, celery and sweet pota- 
toes, egg plant, cauliflower, green 
peppers, Lima and cranberry beans, 
with sweet corn, will tempt us to 
light the fire that softens cellulose 
and brings out flavor and richness. 
In September the white-meated par- 
tridge, a favorite bird both in history 
and fiction, though not for sale in the 
market, is plentiful in the country. 
Who would not build a fi.re and keep 
it, too (often a more serious matter 
than the building, wood being the fuel 
at hand), w^hen roast partridge are to 
appear as the result of the effort ? In- 
deed, if the partridge be young, 
drawn with care, and kept just the 
right length of time, I fancy you will 
consider it no great labor to select 
your wood with careful eye, and, when 
the flame from the oak or maple sticks 



has passed up the chimney, and left 
a deep bed of glowing coals, you will 
desire to try your hand at broiling. 
If you have rolls and a mayonnaise of 
crisp lettuce and cool tomatoes to eat 
with them, you will not care for soup 
before or dessert after, and will think 
the building of the fire a small matter 
in exchange for such a dinner. 

Partridge with cabbage, a dish of 
much renown, we will show later, 
w^hen the lucky sportsman's bag is 
opened. Partridge pie needs only the 
hand of an ordinary cook. It can 
scarcely be spoiled in the making. 
With young partridge, cream and 
butter a-plenty, even the amateur can 
evolve a masterpiece. For variety, 
Spanish peppers, mushrooms, or truffles, 
— the latter soon to be an every-day 
affair in cookerv, — mav be added. 



My Mother's Cooky Jar 

By A. B. Braley 



In a dim old country pantry where the light 

just sifted through, 
Where they kept the pies and spices and the 

jam and honey, too, 
Where the air was always fragrant with the 

smell of things to eat, 
And the coolness was a refuge from the burn- 
ing summer heat, — 
It was there I used to find it, when I went to 

help myself, — 
That old cooky jar a-setting underneath the 

pantry shelf. 
Talk of manna straight from heaven ! Why, it 

isn't on a par 
With those good old-fashioned cookies from 

my mother's cooky jar. 

They were crisp and light and flaky ; they had 
lots of sugar on; 

And I think the way they tasted that the foun- 
tains of the dawn 

Had been robbed to give them flavor, and the 
sweetness of the South 

Had been kneaded in them somehow, for they 
melted in your mouth. 



How I used to eat those cookies when I came 

in from my play! 
Yet the jar was never empty, spite of all I put 

away. 
Oh, the "days that were" were better than 

dyspeptic days that are. 
And I wish I had a cooky from my mother's 

cooky jar! 

I am sick of fancy cooking ; I am weary of the 

ways 
Of the butler and the waiters. Give me back 

my boyhood days! 
Give me back the good old kitchen, with its 

roominess and light, 
Where the farm hands did their "sparking" 

almost every winter night! 
Give me back my boyhood hunger and the 

things my mother made! 
Give me back that well-filled pantry where I 

used to make a raid! 
Take me back, as though forgetting all the 

years which mark and mar — 
Let me taste once more the cookies from my 

mother's cooky jar! 



School Lunches 



By Kate Gannett Wells 



THE present typical school 
lunch is as much a part of 
hygienic evolution as any other 
vital school improvement. Time was 
when our masculine forbears scorned 
any simple lunch, while our mothers 
secretly stuffed the pockets of their 
children with goodies. But, with the 
paper -bag age, lunches began to im- 
prove, and with the era of cheap paper 
boxes they even took on an air of ele- 
gance. Still, they all had to be carried 
from home, unless the corner grocery 
really was round the corner from school, 
which quite as often was located in a 
clearing. 

Just when or how the school lunch 
began to establish itself in the school 
building no one dares to aver, lest, 
if one city or town claim its origin, 
dispute arise. What matters it if 
the lunch-room and its accessories has 
become universal! 

But it hasn't. It exists only in a few 
big cities, in enterprising towns and 
kindly minded villages. In its best 
estate it is a school adjunct of immense 
importance. First of all, the school 
lunch must have a locality of its own, 
preferably not in the basement, where 
it is generally found for economical 
reasons. It also must have tables 
and seats of its own, and the tables 
should be covered with white enamel 
cloth, and the seats should not be chairs, 
lest their backs get broken! To such 
lunch-room, in some places, the pupils 
bring their own supplies, put up at 
home, while another room may furnish 
only chocolate or soup, and still another 
may have a buffet lunch. Any lunch- 
room, however, in order to fulfil even 
a tithe of its duty, should furnish at 
least a hot cup of — ^something. Many 
pupils walk quite a distance to school, 
or, if attending a normal or high school 



elsewhere than in their own towns, 
go by train, leaving their homes any- 
where between 6.30 and 7.30 in the 
morning, which in winter is early and 
cold. These pupils need the hot broth 
or broma that in many schools is made 
on gas stoves by special pupils, who 
in this way are glad to earn a little. 
The usual price for a big cup of soup, 
broma, or chocolate, with two Graham 
biscuit, is five cents. The boys and 
girls carry their filled cups to the lunch 
tables, and with the contents of their 
home boxes have a satisfactory lunch, 
unless the chocolate is too watery! 

The normal school at Worcester 
excels in its provision for keeping things 
hot by having a very large heater sup- 
plied with ■ shelves, where the girls 
can warm over what they bring, or 
cook eggs, heat milk, etc. The care 
of the many tables is assigned to differ- 
ent pupils, who make them attractive 
with flowers or shrubs that afterwards 
can be used in the botanical lesson. 
Most schools prefer to have a regular 
lunch counter from which is dispensed 
the menu of the day. On the gas stove 
is the ubiquitous soup or broma, that, 
with various kinds of bread and fruit, 
sandwiches, and corn-cakes, furnishes a 
lunch that hungry children will eat, 
but not the appetizing one which older 
pupils prefer. At the Normal Art 
School, Boston, the superintendent of 
the lunch-room sets forth from ten 
to fifteen dishes each day, — always 
chocolate and soup, delicate sandwiches 
of all kinds, fish or meat pie in individ- 
ual dishes, baked tomato or rice, baked 
macaroni, custards, jellies, delicious 
salads, ice-cream, cake, and fruit. 
Nothing costs more than eight cents, 
most dishes cost but five cents, and one 
has a lunch to one's fastidious or hearty 
liking. Many of the Boston schools are 



School Lunches 



lOl 



excellently supplied from the "New 
England Kitchen," thus relieving the 
principal of all care. 

The way in which menus differ ac- 
cording to locahty is an entertaining 
lesson in nationalities. Pie, however, 
is seldom seen anywhere, though eclairs 
are in frequent evidence. The thick 
sandwich with its tasteless chicken 
or spiced ham is no longer considered 
"elegant" by girls, while boys yet 
crave them. 

A most perfect equipment of a lunch- 
room is found in the new high school 
at Rochester, N.Y. Almost the whole 
basement is given up to it. Every- 
thing except bread is cooked there, — 
hams and other meats, soups, vege- 
tables, cake, etc. All are admirably 
set forth. The regular corps of cooks 
is present, all and every day, reinforced 
at the noon hour by waitresses and 
special pupils. Twelve or fifteen hun- 
dred are served each day, for the ar- 
rangements are so pleasant and the 
food so good that the college boys 
near by lunch at the high school. 
The superintendent oversees each de- 
tail of cooking, serving, book-keeping. 
Accounts, or the making both ends 
meet, present the real problem in 
school lunches. Prices must be low and 
food must taste well, or no one will 
partake. Yet, since prices have gone 
up, it is difficult to maintain lunches at 
their former high level. Much depends 
on who manages. When one concern 
sends to many schools, uniformity of 
taste has to be guaranteed, and it can- 
not be. When the lunch superin- 
tendent runs the lunch-room as she 
would her own house, it is on a profit- 
and-loss basis to herself. If she is 
keen at a bargain, sees to the cooking 
herself, offers delightful surprises in 
new dishes, and sells at a minimum, 
she can make from $20 to $30 a 
week, provided she does not pay for 
rent, heat, dishes, or labor, and has at 
least two hundred hungry boys and 
girls to feed. If she has young men 



and women, she will not make as much, 
unless there are five or six hundred of 
them, when she will be likely to receive 
a salary. No school should run a 
lunch-room for its own profit, but it 
may rightly make up losses when ex- 
penses are not met out of receipts. 
Yet a skilled superintendent will not 
let such disaster occur. 

Some persons advocate free lunches, 
at least for little children. No doubt 
they would be better in health for just 
a free glass of milk. But one cannot 
begin on the smallest lunch or cheapest 
free milk without increasing the pater- 
nalism that eventually lessens self-de- 
pendence. Parents already expect too 
much from schools. If health is to be 
added to the education and character 
that they are to supply, clothes will have 
to be bestowed as well as food. They 
are very often, but by individuals, free 
lunches often being thus given. The 
State already provides so much which 
is free that parentage, after all, is not 
as costly as it ought to be, in order to 
make parents realize their responsibil- 
ities. 

The five cents asked for the cup of 
soup or glass of milk has been lowered to 
three and two cents in some schools. 
Better put the price at half a cent or 
two glasses for one cent than give it 
free. 

Women who want to do something 
for the schools could send in home- 
made luxuries, and women who are on 
school boards or committees will grow 
ingenious in devising plans for school 
lunches. Then there is ever so much 
pleasure in raising the level of taste 
and of good manners at table. Have 
the lunch crockery pretty, though 
strong. Introduce paper napkins. 
Rebel at orange peel and banana skins 
left on tables. Insist on return of 
forks, spoons, and tumblers. Do not 
let two pupils drink from the same 
glass. Do not let them sit side wise 
or cross-legged. Go about it all in a 
jolly, not in an advisory way. Sug- 



I02 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



gest Cooking-School Magazine ideas to 
the school lunch-room, and see how 
quickly they are adopted because of 
their freshness and economy. 

Then the reward will be in the in- 
creased vigor of the pupils, and the 
committee member will not have to go 



home to dream of tired faces, thin 
frames, and pimy wrists. The limch- 
room should give a happy half-hour 
of fellowship and of hunger satisfied. 
But keep its menus separate from school 
programmes, that the lunch-room may 
continue on its way rejoicing. 



Aunt Matilda 



Miss Fashion wears a stylish frock, with many 

a plait and frill; 
A myriad tiny tucks display the artist's subtle 

skill. 
Her outhnes shock anatomy, such wondrous 

curves they show, 
And by an eerie miracle she's concave to her 
toe. 
I marvel, but cannot admire: 

My longing fancy flies 
Back to the days of long ago, 
And feasts enamoured eyes 
Upon a form in rich brocade 

That charmed of old the town; 
For art and beauty blent their grace 
In Aunt Matilda's gown. 

Miss Fashion's locks are trussed and puffed, 

to heaven they aspire, 
With rolls and cushions underneath they 

scarcely could be higher; 
Yea, oft at balls and operas, although her 

face is fair. 
Her features seem a mannikin's beneath that 
weight of hair. 
It was not so in olden days, 

I would that you could see 
A portrait on my study wall 
That archly smiles at me; 
Two curls that hang on either cheek 

Its dimpled charms caress, — 
No cushion's bulk flamboyant strains 
My Aunt Matilda's tress. 

Miss Fashion's partners hie in throngs; but 

have you seen her dance 
Across the floor, as long as four the two-step's 

dashing prance? 
Male beauty may be strenuous, but woman 

should not haste. 
And motions so rectangular no maiden ever 

graced. 



Alas! if modern belles and beaux 

A moment could but cast 
Their supercilious eyes behind 

And view the courtly past. 
One guerdon fine the glance would gain 

They never could regret, — 
My stately Aunt Matilda as 

She danced the minuet. 

Miss Fashion hath much sprightliness, — or 

so, at least, I've heard, — 
Her repartee, as all agree, flits nimble as a 

bird, 
And, though its tone is seldom soft, by mirth 

'tis always crowned: 
Perhaps it is the noise about that makes her 
voice resound; 
I know not. Yet I've known a day — 

Its modes are now disdained — 
When women quite as bright of mind 

Spoke with an accent trained. 
With voice quite low one dame I know 

Whose arrows always hit. 
And troops of gallants sat entranced 
By Aunt Matilda's wit. 

Miss Fashion sports a chafing-dish, and no 

man dare refuse 
The dainties most mysterious that skilfully 

she stews. 
Above the smoking caldron's brim enchant- 

ingly she beams, — 
Who would not brave the contents dire, re- 
gardless of his dreams! 
Alackaday! I call to mind 
In times agone a maid 
The cuHnary powers of wh®m 

Far wider art displayed. 
I doubt not that the olden gods 

Olympus had forsook 
To taste one of the dinners Aunt 
Matilda used to cook. 
Samuel Minium Peck, in the Transcript. 



I 



r 




HOME IDE.AS 
AND ECOnOMIES 




-3^ Jk JU.o ^o.^A.■Jk.A-^rt-.A,,A,^K^.^A^r^r^W^fA AtoiYSArStftta 



Contributions to tHs department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for 
at reasonable rates. 



A Good Breakfast Dish 
Codfish Supreme; 

SHRBD fine and free from all bone 
and stringy fibre some codfish. 
Freshen to taste by soaking. Drain, 
and press out all the water. 

To a cup of the well-pressed fish add 
a cup of fresh eggs. Beat together 
until they are well mixed. 

Have a skillet or griddle moderately 
hot, with a good spoonful of dripping 
in. If not that, use butter. Drop by 
spoonfuls. Let cook until they will 
turn the same as pancakes. They will 
cook in about the same time as pan- 
cakes, and should be a pale, dainty 
brown. I never have seen any one 
who did not Hke them, even if he did 
not eat codfish in any other form. 

A frying material for this and many 
other things that is economical and 
preferable to butter, as it does not 
scorch so easily, is made by taking the 
fresh fat trimmings from steak or any 
part of beef, the fat of boiled beef, and 
the fat cake from the soup stock made 
the day before the soup is wanted. 
Put all in a skillet, add a cup of water 
or more according to the quantity, and 
let cook slowly until the water is 
boiled away. As soon as it is still, 
so that a drop of water added makes 
it sputter, strain through cheese-cloth, 
and it will be free from all specks and 
ready for use. It must not be fried 
out, or it will have a disagreeable 
flavor, which it will impart to anything 
cooked in it. E. A. s. 



COLD biscuit may be acceptably 
warmed over for lunch as follows : 
Cut in two, butter lightly, and spread 
with grated cheese, seasoned with a 
sprinkhng of red pepper. Put together, 
and, without moistening, heat in the 
oven until crisp. 

Desserts Made with Gelatine 

FEW housekeepers realize the possi- 
bilities of gelatine, — what a number 
of easily prepared, delicious, and digest- 
ible desserts may be made from it. 

These may be divided into three 
classes, — the simple jellies, the sponges 
made with eggs, and the various creams. 
Proceed on the general principle of a 
tablespoonful of granulated gelatine to 
a pint of liquid, soaked in enough cold 
water to cover it. Then dissolve by 
the addition of boihng water. 

Let us take a number of desserts that 
may be made with oranges. They are 
not only good, but in the spring, when 
the appetite needs stimulating, they 
are especially tempting. Orange jelly 
is, no doubt, famihar to all. This same 
dish may be changed to a delicate, 
foamy ''sponge" by the addition of the 
whites of two eggs to a pint of the jelly. 
They must be added just as the jelly 
begins to thicken. If put in sooner, a 
different effect still is obtained. Two 
layers are shown, the whites rising to 
the top. 

A very different and most delicious 
sponge is made by the addition of the 
yolks, too. It is so nice, I give the 



I04 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



recipe in full. The juice of six oranges 
and one lemon, four eggs, one cup of 
sugar, half a package of gelatine in a 
cup of water. Squeeze the oranges and 
lemon, and strain the juice on the sugar. 
Beat the yolks of the eggs. Add the 
sugar and orange juice, and cook in 
the double boiler until it begins to 
thicken. Then add the gelatine. Take 
from the fire, and, when the mixture 
begins to thicken, add the well-beaten 
whites of the eggs. When almost too 
thick to pour, turn into a mould that 
has been wet with cold water. It is 
important that the whites be added 
promptly when the mixture cools, 
that it may be smooth and delicate and 
not streaky. 

These recipes are all good used with 
other fruit juice instead of orange juice. 
A lemon jelly poured over a cup of 
strawberries, left from a previous meal, 
or a mixture of fruits or even prunes 
makes an economical and simple des- 
sert. 

An almost unhmited number of good 
creams or charlottes may be made with 
gelatine and whipped cream. The cream 
may be flavored with vanilla, sherry, 
fruits, nuts, chocolate, or anything one 
pleases. Proceed as in the foregoing 
recipes. Soak a tablespoonful of gran- 
ulated gelatine for a pint of Hquid. 
When dissolved, add enough boiling 
water to melt it. Some recipes advise 
the use of milk, but water is better, 
as there is no danger of its curdling, and 
the cream will be rich enough, anyway. 
When it is cool, stir it into the whipped 
cream, sweetened and flavored to taste. 
It may be poured into a large mould or 
into cups or individual moulds, and may 
be garnished or not as one prefers. 
Strawberry cream is very attractive, 
garnished with the whole berries and 
whipped cream, and orange cream with 
sections of the oranges. A spray of 
asparagus is a dainty garnish for the 
white creams, and whipped cream may 
be used with any of them. 

Nuts added to a vanilla cream make 



a deHcious but very rich dessert. 
Shredded pineapple made tart with a 
httle lemon juice is a nice flavor. 
Marshmallows and candied cherries are 
not only deHcious, but decorative in a 
vanilla or cherry cream. 

Lastly, a combination of two or more 
gelatines may be made, as orange jelly 
and vanilla cream, raspberry and plain 
cream, lemon jelly and pineapple cream, 
the tartness of one combining most 
dehghtfully with the sweetness of the 
other. Allow the first layer to become 
almost solid before putting on the next, 
which should be thick, but not firm. 
If it should become too firm, melt a 
httle by setting over a pan of hot water. 
Mrs. W. F. G. 



* 
* * 



Grape Conserve 

THREE pints of grapes, seeded, eight 
cups of sugar, one-half a pound of 
raisins, the juice of two oranges, one 
pint of water, one cup of Enghsh wal- 
nuts. Pulp the grapes. Cook, and 
remove seeds by pressing through col- 
lander. Then put in all ingredients 
except the walnuts, and cook twenty 
minutes. Add nuts just before taking 
from fire. 






Simple Puddings for Every Day 
Plain Rice 

PUT two tablespoonfuls of washed 
rice, three tablespoonfuls of sugar 
and a little salt into a bean-pot. Add 
one quart of cold milk, and bake, un- 
covered, four or five hours in a good 
oven, or inside the feed door of the 
furnace, with moderate fire. It bakes 
more quickly in the furnace. 

Unsweetened Bread Pudding 

Soak one cup of stale bread 
crumbs (or toast crumbs) in one 
and a half cups of cold milk for half 
an hour. Add salt, one large table- 
spoonful of butter, melted, one quarter 



Home Ideas and Economies 



105 



a cup of raisins or chopped dates, 
and one beaten egg. Turn into the 
double boiler, and steam two hours 
or more. Serve with a very sweet 
sauce, as the following, for instance: 
Beat one fresh egg two minutes. Add 
one-half a cup of powdered sugar, and 
beat three minutes more. Flavor with 
one teaspoonful of sherry. This is 
best when made just before serving. 

Hominy 

Let one-half a cup of whole hominy 
soak over night. Cook in the double 
boiler, in three cups of hot water, three 
or more hours. Serve with cream and 
sugar. Pearl barley is very nice cooked 
the same way, only it needs three and a 
half cups of water, as it swells more 
than hominy or rice. ShrEna. 






Brown Bread with Nuts for Sand- 
wiches 
I FIND that a cup of walnut meats, 
chopped as for cake and stirred 
into the dough for a loaf of steamed 
brown bread, makes the bread espe- 
cially good for sandwiches. Royal 
cheese, or cooked egg, chopped and sea- 
soned, makes a good filling. 

A New Tomato JeivLy 

I heat two cups of a good chili sauce 
with half a cup of hot water, and strain 
over a tablespoonful of gelatine, soft- 
ened in one-fourth a cup of cold water, 
and thus have a very good and quickly 
made tomato jelly. 

Mrs. N. E. W. 
* * 



The Cost of Living 

" T~^0 you really think it is safe for 
JLy people to marry on a thousand 
or twelve hundred a year?" asked a 
bright-faced woman at a luncheon 
recently. "Can it be done safely?" 

And the answer came from a quiet, 
thoughtful httle woman: "It all de- 



pends upon the view-point of the in- 
terested parties. I have demonstrated 
that it can be done for half that sum, 
and done comfortably and well for a 
family of three. 

''After several years of study abroad, 
where we had spent considerable money, 
my husband, Httle boy, and self re- 
turned to our home city. 

* ' We were not ready to build the new 
house, neither could we content our- 
selves in a boarding-house, and we felt 
the need of economizing. 

"I felt that we could live on $50 per 
month, and was anxious to make the 
trial. So, taking a small four-room 
flat, for which we paid $25 per month, 
we started in. 

"To be sure, we were well supphed 
with clothing for a year, and our $50 a 
month did not cover amusements or 
books; and, besides, the cost of Hving 
ten years ago was much less than it is 
to-day. 

"The first week I was restless, but, 
after I had simpHfied and arranged our 
scale of Hving, everything moved as 
smoothly as clock-work. 

' ' Never a week went by in which we 
did not entertain at least one guest 
at dinner or supper, and sometimes 
more; but I never permitted our en- 
tertaining to increase oru* expenses. 

"It was a most enjoyable experience 
to me, and one that will never be for- 
gotten, for I was able to prove myself 
equal to the emergency." 

c. M. A. 
* * 

MY favorite oversleeves for house- 
work are cut from an old under- 
shirt. They cHng well at the wrist, 
stay up well over the sleeve, and are 
easily washed. I save all my under- 
sleeves for this purpose. 

I had a great deal of trouble with 
window screens until a carpenter told 
me to rub the strips well with lard. I 
now anoint all the edges of window 



io6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



screens and sashes at least once a year, 
and have no more trouble. 

We like our tea and coffee very hot, 
and always use an English tea-cosey. 
We also use a little pad of felt or flannel 
on the tile, and find it less trouble and 
safer for the table than warming the 
tile. 

I made an excellent bread rack for 
cooling my bread and cake from a 
narrow window screen, which was never 
really needed for that particular win- 
dow. The frame was firm and strong, 
and I bought four smooth white picture 
knobs and screwed them into the frame, 
one at each corner, for feet, to raise it 
from the table, and thus secure a 
thorough ventilation of cool air. I 
spread a napkin over the wire, turn my 
bread, cake, etc., directly upon this with 
the most satisfactory results. When 
not in use, the rack hangs on a hook in 
the pantry. 

My pantry window was a problem for 
some time. The sash-blind would blow 
in onto my milk and puddings whenever 
I opened the window, and tacking it 
down at the bottom only served to 
tear the muslin. At last I hit upon the 
plan of sewing the muslin onto the win- 
dow screen, stretching it smoothly 
across, and basting it through the wire 
all around close to the frame. It looks 
neat both outside and in, and serves to 
keep the dust out when the window is 
open. 

I have an insuperable objection to 
the odor of shoes in my closet, and yet 
never found a satisfactory receptacle 
for them until this winter. I searched 
the town till I found a packing-case 
about four feet long by one foot wide 
and deep, with a good cover. My hus- 
band put cleats on the inner side of the 
cover for me, neat little casters under 
each corner, and, after I had covered it, 
hinges at the back. I lined the whole 



box with glazed cambric and covered 
the outside with handsome cretonne, 
to match my room, arranging it in 
box-plaits all along the front and ends, 
leaving the back plain, and tacking it 
on with brass-headed nails. The cover 
is plain, with a little tab at each end 
to lift it by. This pretty shoe box I 
placed at the foot of my bed, and ar- 
ranged the shoes in a row within. Now, 
when I throw back the bedclothes to 
air the bed, they fall harmlessly on the 
nice clean surface of my long box. 

J. M. G. 
* * 

TO avoid monotony and to be eco- 
nomical at the same time is a 
problem which most housewives find 
difficult to solve in making their selec- 
tion of food for the daily menu. Change 
and variety may be acquired, to a great 
extent, by introducing dishes made 
from left-overs. This method is eco- 
nomical also. Some people do not 
believe in buying or preparing food to 
leave any surplus ; but the saving house- 
wife often plans her menu so there shall 
be a surplus stock, and uses the same to 
advantage in making up her menu for 
the following day. 

The first set of menus given below 
shows how economy, change, and 
variety were secured by the judicious 
use of left-overs, for it can be seen that 
there was not much extra stuff used in 
preparing Monday's list. 

The chicken left from Sunday's din- 
ner was chopped, a cream gravy made, 
and served on toast for Monday's 
breakfast. 

Salmon croquettes were made from 
the salmon and potatoes that were left 
from Sunday. 

The orange sherbet was made from 
the juice of three oranges left from the 
half-dozen purchased for breakfast the 
previous day. 

Nuts, celery, radishes, and tomatoes 
were prepared for salad. This was put 
on lettuce leaves, '^.nd tomato dressing 



Home Ideas and Economies 



107 



made from the remainder of a can of 
tomatoes, opened to make the soup, was 
served instead of a mayonnaise. 

To make the berry pudding, a plain 
cornstarch was made, and the juice of 
the preserved berries, put through a 
sieve, was used instead of milk. This 
pudding was served with whipped 
cream. 

Even the plain boiled potatoes had 
been cut up into dice, cream being added, 
together with a little flour, thus making 
the delicious creamed potatoes served 
for Sunday night supper. 

The second set of menus was pre- 
pared so there would be scarcely any 
surplus. Everything used to make up 
Monday's list was bought especially for 
that day. 

SET NO. I 

Sunday 
Breakfast 

Oranges $0 

Cream of wheat 

Chops 

Corn-bread 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Tomato soup o 

Radishes 

Celery 

Chicken fricassee 

Boiled potatoes 

Sliced tomatoes 

Squash 

Rice pudding 

Nuts 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Creamed potatoes 

Salmon 

Tea biscuit 

Preserved berries 



■ 15 
.10 
.10 
.60 
.05 
.15 
.10 
.20 
.15 



Total $2 

Monday 

Breakfast 

Grape-fruit 

Cream of wheat 

Creamed chicken on toast. 

Popovers 

Coffee. 



Luncheon 



Salmon croquettes. 
Scalloped potatoes 



.15 
.10 

■25 
•41 



.15 

.06 

.06 



.08 



Cake 

Orange sherbet. 
Coffee. 

Vegetable soup . . 

Roast pork . , . 

Apple sauce . . . 

Mashed potatoes . 
Combination salad. 
Berry pudding , 
Coffee. 



Dinner 



Total 



15 



.15 
.50 
.05 
.05 



$1.25 



Total sum expended in preparing No. ij 

$3.66. 

SET NO. 2 



Oranges . . . 
Cream of wheat 
Chops .... 
Corn-bread 
Coffee. 



Sunday 
Breakfast 



>-i5 
.06 

.15 
.05 



Dinner 



Tomato soup 

Radishes 

Celery 

Chicken fricassee 

Boiled potatoes 

Sliced tomatoes 

Squash .10 

20 

.......... .15 



.15 
.07 
.07 
.50 
.05 
.10 



Rice pudding 
Nuts . . . , 
Coffee. 



Potato chips . '. 
Salmon .... 
Tea biscuits . . 
Preserved berries 
Coffee. 



Supper 



.10 

.15 
.10 

• 15 



Total $2.30 



Grape-fruit . . 
Cream of wheat 
Boiled eggs . . 
Popovers . . , 
Coffee. 



Monday 

Breakfast 



Luncheon 



Scalloped potatoes 
Fish cakes . . . . 

Cake 

Lemon ice ... . 
Coffee. 



Dinner 



Vegetable soup 
Roast pork 
Apple sauce . 



.15 
.06 
.10 
.06 



.08 
.10 
.15 
.10 



.15 
.50 
.05 



io8 The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

Mashed potatoes ........... .05 trial. We will be pleased to hear of 

craXdtng :::::::::: :]l results of canning by this method. 

° !^" , — — Canning Small Fruits 

Total $1.85 

Fill jars with perfect fruit and cover 

^ J^otal sum expended in preparing set No. 2, ^-^^ ^^^^^ ^^-^^^ ^^^ . ^^^^ ^^^^ .^ ^^^^ 

of water two or three inches under the 

By comparing the sums expended in water. After awaiting for all bubbles 

preparing the two sets of menus, it can to arise/if any are seen in the jar, open 

be seen that about 50 cents were saved and recork, as all of the air must be 

in the set where foods were bought and excluded, 

prepared in such quantities as to insure :^*^ 
a surplus stock, and the same was used 

judiciously. Anchovy Paste 

Since no menu can be prepared and A NCHO\^ paste comes now in 

ser\^ed without having some food left iVtubes — collapsible tubes — like those 

over, unless it appears scant and meagre, used for paints and cold cream. An- 

a certain amount of provisions w411 chovy paste is as salt as the Dead 

be wasted daily unless left-overs are Sea or Great Salt Lake, but a little of 

utilized. This seems a small item, but it is an appetizer. Especially good is 

at the end of the month it amounts to it when spread upon crisp buttered 

quite a sum. Therefore, it is safe to toast; and often it is used in highly 

say that a saving of 12 per cent, can be seasoned dishes of eggs. Essence of an- 

made on the menu that is prepared to chovy is used in sauces, and improves 

insure a surplus stock, when this is oyster stews wonderfully, 
used judiciously in the preparation of 

the following day's list. The Yale Faculty and the Han-ard 

F. E. Williams. Dental School are favoring Horace 

^*5jj Fletcher's ideas, and the American 

i^/aga2i>2e has published a life, with a por- 

A Real Watermelon ^^.^it of Mr. Fletcher, who, from being 

LINE a melon mould about one inch a dyspeptic and refused as a risk by life 

and a half in depth with pistachio insurance companies, has now become 

ice-cream. Fill the centre with rasp- a model of health and happiness and 

berry or strawberry ice, and arrange physical endurance, though almost sixty 

carefully throughout the ice raisins, years old. One of his tenets is pro- 

which have previously been soaked in longed mastication. He has elaborated, 

brandy for a few hours, to simulate or rather elongated, Gladstone's rule of 

the seeds of the melon. "thirty-two chews." The following 

Pack for two hours in salt and ice, stanzas from the London Punch may 

and, when turned from the mould, place be based on Fletcher's teachings :— 

the flat surface upward. _ 

^. rr . ■ 4- ^1- 1 VI 4-1, The Simple Life. 

The effect is starthngly hke the ^, . , ^ ^i 1 i,r 

* ' There is a road to earthlv bliss: 

real melon, and a few of the young xhe secret would you know? 

vine leaves scattered carelessh^ about Five words contain it: it is this, — 

greatly enhance it. b. p. ^^^ little, and eat slow! 

^ Or would you that 3^0 ur lot should be 

* * Celestial happiness? 

-pHE following recipe for canning ""t^:"^::^'^^/^' 

X small fruits, sent by Grace F. London Punch. 

DeCamp, Oak Park, 111., deserves a j. d. c. 



-^J3U£RIES AND ANSWERS^ 



^ 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to cuUnary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps; for menus, $i. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 2)1'2 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1145. Mrs. E. M. W., Cincinnati, 
Ohio: "When recipes call for 'salt pork,' is 
pickled pork the kind referred to?" 

" Salt Pork " 

In New England the fat sides of 
pork, cut into strips and cured in a 
brine of salt and water, or salt without 
water, is known as "salt pork." We 
see no reason why the terms " salt " and 
"pickled" pork may not refer to the 
same thing. Especially in the country 
such pork, fifty years ago, was com- 
monly served for breakfast, much as 
bacon is now served. A few small strips 
were cooked with a fricasseed chicken, 
and half a pound or more was cooked 
with corned beef, when a "boiled din- 
ner" was in progress. 



Query 1146. — Mrs. B. S. W., Montana: 
"Give few recipes for canapes. Should they 
be eaten from the fingers or with a knife and 
fork?" 

Lettuce Leaves, Genoese Fashion 

(Appetizer at Dinner or Luncheon) 

Separate the fillets of eight anchovies 
into bits. Add to these two hard- 
cooked eggs, cut in tiny cubes. Season 
with paprika, and mix with enough 
mayonnaise dressing to hold the bits 
together. Select eight small, crisp 
lettuce leaves. (These should not be 
more than two and a half inches in 
length.) Upon each dispose a tea- 



spoonful of the mixture, packing it 
closely, then mask or cover neatly with 
mayonnaise. Decorate with capers, 
chopped beets, and parsley. Serve on 
small plates. If daintily made, these 
are very attractive. 

Sardine or Anchovy Eclairs (Cold 
Hors d'CEuvre) 
Prepare choux paste mixture, and, 
using a tube with half-inch opening, 
press the paste on to buttered baking- 
pans in strips about two and one-half 
inches long and three-fourths an inch 
wide. Bake in an oven, with strong 
heat below, until a cake feels light 
when taken up in the hand. When 
cold, split on one side, and fill with the 
following mixture: Pound in a mortar 
half a cup of sardine or anchovy fillets, 
one-fourth a cup of butter, and four 
hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and pass 
through a sieve. Season highly with 
tabasco, salt, if needed, mustard at 
discretion, and a few drops of lemon 
juice, then fold in one fourth a cup 
of whipped cream, measured after 
whipping, and more seasoning, if 
needed. Dip the fiat side of each 
eclair into a highly flavored brown or 
tomato chaudfroid sauce, and dec- 
orate with bits of hard-boiled white 
of ^gg or trulHe, or with both. Brush 
over with liquid aspic jelly. Serve 
on small plates covered with paper 
doilies. 



no 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Ham Croutons (Hot Hors 

d'CEuvre) 

! ^tir three-fourths a cup of fine- 
Chopped, cold, boiled ham into one- 
tliii'd a cup of tomato or Bechamel 
sauce. Add a tablespoonful of butter, 
season highly with tabasco or cayenne, 
mustard, and kitchen bouquet. Spread 
upon small diamonds of hot toast. 
Cover with grated Parmesan cheese, 
surmounted with buttered bread or 
cracker crumbs. Set in a hot oven, to 
brown the crumbs, and serve at once 
on small plates covered with paper 
doilies. 

Celery Stuffed with Cheese 
A combination of cheeses makes a 
novel stuffing for celery. Equal parts 
*of Roquefort, Camembert, and cream 
cheese, are crushed together in a mortar. 
Sherry is added until the mixture is 
of the consistence of thick mayon- 
naise. This is then spread in the 
stalks of celery, which have been previ- 
ously separated and trimmed, if needed, 
to suitable lengths. 

Fingers or Forks 
At present food is eaten from the 
fingers much more commonly than 
would have been thought proper some 
years ago. Many canapes cannot be 
handled easily with a fork. Use judg- 
ment. No one would think of eating 
celery stuffed with cheese with a knife 
and fork. 

QuBRY 1 1 47. — A. T. : "Recipe for boiled 
salad dressing in which both whites of eggs 
and whipped cream are used: also claret 
cup for twelve, and strawberry and currant 
sherbet for six." 

Boiled Salad Dressing with Whites 
of Egg and Cream 
Mix half a teaspoonful of mustard, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, and a gen- 
erous fourth a teaspoonful of paprika. 
Add the yolks of two eggs, and mix 
thoroughly. Add one-fourth a cup of 



butter and one-fourth a cup of cider 
vinegar or lemon juice and vinegar, 
half and half. Set the saucepan over 
hot water, and stir until the mixture 
becomes smooth and thick. Then re- 
move from the fire, and beat in the 
white of one egg, beaten dry. Return 
the saucepan to the hot water, if 
needed, to set the egg. Beat the 
mixture constantly while it is in the 
hot water. When the mixture is cold 
and the salad ready to serve, fold in 
half a cup of thick cream, beaten solid. 

Claret Cup 
Mix in a bowl one quart of claret, 
three-fourths a cup of sugar, the juice 
of one lemon, and, if desired, one -fourth 
a cup of Jamaica rum. Mix slowly and 
thoroughly, then add one or two 
bottles of club soda or ApoUinaris 
water. Finish with some small pieces 
of pineapple, a sliced orange (seeds 
removed), or a few strawberries in 
season, and a piece of ice. 

Currant and Strawberry Sherbet 
Boil one quart of water and one pint 
of sugar twenty minutes. Add one 
teaspoonful of gelatine softened in cold 
water, and strain. When cold, for cur- 
rant sherbet add a cup and a half of 
currant juice (crush the currants, then 
strain them through a cheese-cloth). 
For strawberry sherbet add a cup and 
a half of strawberry juice, less the juice 
of a lemon. Freeze as usual. 



Query 1148. — "Saint Louis": "Recipe for 
small cucumber pickles, the size of one's little 
finger. Wish a recipe that contains mustard 
seed, and tells how to keep them firm and of 
natural color." 

Little Pickles with Mustard 
Seed, etc. 
Scrub and wash the cucumbers. Let 
them stand over night, covered with 
boiling water in which salt has been 
dissolved. Use a pint of salt to a 
peck of cucumbers. Cover the dish 
close. Drain and rins^ th^ gucumbers, 



Queries and Answers 



III 



and pack them into fruit jars. Scald 
an ounce of mustard seed, an ounce of 
cloves, and an ounce or more of small 
red pepper-pods in a gallon of vinegar. 
Use this to fill the jars to overflow. 
Close hermetically as in canning. A 
small piece of alum (size of two peas) 
may be put into each jar to keep the 
pickles crisp. Most pickles will soften 
when exposed to the air, as after the 
opening of a can. Scalding pickles 
in vinegar in a saucepan lined with 
grape leaves, the top of the pickles also 
being covered with the leaves, is 
thought to aid in retaining the natural 
color. 

Query 1149. — S. M. C, Mount Loretto, 
N.Y.: "Recipes for Roman punch and tea bis- 
cuit." 

Roman Punch 
Mix a quart of water, a pint of sugar, 
the white of an egg, and a generous 
cup of lemon juice. When the sugar is 
dissolved, freeze to a mush. Take out 
the dasher, pour in three tablespoonfuls 
of Jamaica rum, and mix thoroughly 
with a paddle. When ready to serve, 
put the ice in glasses, make an open 
space in the centre of each, put in a 
teaspoonful of rum, and serve at once. 
The usual lemon sherbet, made by 
boiling a quart of water and pint of 
sugar twenty minutes, and adding the 
lemon juice when cold, is often used for 
a punch foundation, though its smooth- 
ness is not desirable in a punch. 

Tea Biscuit 
At noon, soften a yeast cake in one- 
fourth a cup of lukewarm water, stir 
in flour to make a dough, knead the 
dough into a little ball, score it in both 
directions, and drop it into a small 
saucepan of lukewarm water. Melt 
half a cup of butter in a cup of scalded 
milk. Add a scant half a teaspoonful of 
salt and a level tablespoonful of sugar. 
When the liquid has cooled to lukewarm 
and the ball of sponge is light, put the 
sponge into the liquid. Add the beaten 



white of an egg, and stir in flour to make 
a dough. Knead the dough twenty 
minutes, and set it aside to become light. 
When light, cut down or shape, accord- 
ing to time. Half an hour will be 
needed for baking and an hour for ris- 
ing after the shaping. Shape into 
balls, set these close together in a 
buttered pan, and bake when again 
light. 

Query i 150.— Mrs. M. S., Bedford, Mass.: 
"Recipe for buckwheat muffins." 

Buckwheat Muffins 
Sift together, three times, one cup, 
each, of wheat flour and buckwheat 
flour, one-fourth a cup of sugar, four 
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder 
and half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat 
one egg. Add nearly a cup of sweet 
milk, and stir into the dry ingredients 
with three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter. Bake* twenty-five minutes in 
a hot, well-buttered, iron muffin-pan. 



Query 1151. — M. C, Ottawa: "Recipe for 
canning or preserving ginger." 

Canned or Preserved Ginger 

Get ginger stems rather than roots, 
as these will be perfectly tender, while 
the roots, no matter how carefully pre- 
pared, are often tough and stringy. 
Let simmer in water to cover, adding 
to it as needed until the stems can be 
pierced with a fork. Drain and weigh. 
Then take an equal weight of sugar. 
Make a syrup of the sugar and the water 
in which the ginger was cooked. In 
this let the stems simmer until they are 
dark in color and the syrup is thick; 
Then store in jars. 



Query 1152. — Miss L. F., Cleveland, Ohio: 
"Several recipes for orange and lemon pud- 
dings and lemon custards." 

Steamed Lemon Pudding 
Chop fine half a pound of suet, add- 
ing meanwhile three tablespoonfuls of 



112 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



flour. Then mix into it half a cup of 
sugar and ten ounces of grated bread 
crumbs (centre of a stale loaf of bread) . 
When well mixed, add three eggs, beaten 
light and mixed with the grated rind 
and the juice of two lemons. Steam 
two hours in a buttered mould. Serve 
with hard sauce. 

Lemon Souffle Pudding 
Scald a cup and a half of milk. 
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter, and 
work half a cup of flour into it. Cook 
this, stirring constantly in the hot milk 
until smooth and thick. Beat the yolks 
of three eggs, then beat into them one- 
fourth a cup of sugar and a few grains 
of salt, and stir into the hot mixture 
with the grated rind and juice of one 
lemon and half of another (two small 
lemons maybe used). Let the mixture 
cool a few moments, then cut and 
fold into it the whites of three or four 
eggs, beaten dry. Bake in a buttered 
mould, in a moderate oven, about half 
an hour. Serve with Sabayon, frothy, 
or foamy sauce. Make the Sabayon 
sauce with fruit juice. Fruit syrup 
also makes a good sauce. 

Lemon Souffle 

Beat the yolks of four eggs until thick 
and light-colored. Gradually beat into 
them one cup of sugar, then the grated 
rind and juice of one lemon. Lastly, cut 
and fold into the mixture the whites 
of four eggs, beaten dry. Bake in a 
buttered dish, set in hot water, about 
half an hour. Serve with sauce as 
above or without sauce. 

Lemon Custard (English Cream) 
Stir one-third a cup of flour with 
a little cold milk. Scald the rest of a 
quart of milk over hot water. Stir in 
the^^flour and milk, and continue cook- 
ing until the mixture thickens. Beat 
the yolks of five eggs. Gradually beat 
in two -thirds a cup of sugar, and 
stir into the hot mixture. Continue 
to cook and stir two minutes, then 



add the grated rind and juice of one 
large or two small lemons. Turn into 
a buttered baking-dish, and cook in a 
moderate oven fifteen minutes. Let 
cool a little, then cover with a meringue 
made of the whites of five eggs and 
three-fourths a cup of sugar. Return 
to the oven for eight minutes, to cook 
the meringue. 

Query i 153.— Madame G. E. L., Montreal, 
Canada: "Recipes for preserved rose leaves, 
Bavarian cream, and cream sponge cake. Are 
the pork and chicken in chop suey cooked or 
uncooked before being added to the other in- 
gredients? Why does cake stick to the sides 
of the pan and swell in the middle?" 

Cream Sponge Cake 

Pass through a sieve together, three 
times, one cup and a half of sifted flour, 
two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 
one cup of granulated sugar, and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt. Break 
two large eggs into a half-pint cup, then 
fill the cup with thick sweet cream. 
Pour the eggs and cream into the flour 
mixture, add the grated rind of a lemon 
or orange, and beat the mixture vig- 
orously until it is very light. Do not 
have the oven too hot at first, that the 
cake may rise evenly throughout before 
it crusts over. Bake about forty min- 
utes. 



B 



avarian v^ream 



Bavarian creams are complex prep- 
arations. The foundation is fruit juice 
and pulp or coffee or milk, flavored 
with caramel, or chocolate. Gelatine, 
and sometimes eggs, also, are used 
for thickening, and whipped cream is 
added in such a manner that the light, 
fluffy texture is retained. Eggs are 
usually employed with a milk founda- 
tion, but may be omitted with milk, 
and used with fruit juice. 

Caramel Bavarian Cream 
Cook three-fourths a cup of sugar 
to caramel. Add half a cup of boiling 
water, and let cook to a thick syrup. 



Queries and Answers 



113 



To this add three-fourths a cup of 
milk. Beat the yolks of three eggs; 
add one-fourth a cup of sugar and a 
few grains of salt, and beat again. 
Then add the hot milk and caramel, 
and stir and cook over hot water until 
the mixture thickens. Add to it half 
a package of gelatine, softened in half 
a cup of cold water. Stir until the gela- 
tine is dissolved, then strain into a 
dish, and set into ice and water. Stir 
constantly until the mixture begins to 
thicken a little. Then cut and fold 
into it one pint of cream, beaten solid. 
The cream must be added carefully, 
that the gelatine may not thicken in 
lumps, but be evenly blended with the 
cream. 

Pineapple Bavarian Cream 
Scald one pint of grated pineapple. 
Add half a package of gelatine, softened 
in half a cup of cold water, and the juice 
of half a lemon. Set this mixture into 
a dish of ice and water, and stir until 
it begins to set, then fold in one pint 
of cream, beaten solid, and turn into 
a mould. A cup of thick cream and a 
cup of cream poured from the top of 
a quart bottle of milk may be used 
for these dishes ; but it will usually take 
longer beating to make these firm than 
when a full pint of thick cream is used. 
The pineapple-gelatine mixture may 
be strained through a cheese-cloth, 
if the pulp be objectionable in the 
dish. 

Cause of Cake Sticking to Sides of 
Pan, etc. 
We see no reason why a cake should 
"stick" to the sides of the pan if the 
correct proportions of the various in- 
gredients be used, and the pan be well 
buttered. We have seen cakes con- 
taining an excess of sugar and too little 
flour stick to the sides of the pan. , 
A cake that is set to bake in too hot an 
oven will crust over before the heat 
has caused the right amount of ex- 
pansion. Afterwards, when all the 



batter has been heated, the expansion 
will cause it to puff up, and burst out, 
perhaps, at the weakest spot, usually 
the middle. Too much flour, by re- 
tarding the passage of heat, will produce 
the same result. 

Pork and Chicken in Chop Suey 
The recipe given in the February, 
1906, magazine was for uncooked meat, 
but, as pork in particular requires long 
cooking, we see no reason why cooked 
meat could not be used. It should, 
however, be left to stand in the sauce, 
over hot water, for an hour or more, 
that it may be thoroughly permeated 
with the flavor of the sauce. When un- 
cooked meat is used, and the dish is 
to be served at noon, the meat must 
be set to cook early in the day. 

Grecian Recipe for Rose Leaf 
Preserve 
We have been unable to find this 
recipe. 

Query 1154.— A. H., New York City: "The 
best way to fry ham." 

How to fry Ham 

We are unable to decide upon the 
best method 'of frying ham. We will 
give several ways from which a choice 
may be made. Put a few bits of fat 
ham in a frying-pan, let cook slowly 
five or six minutes, then take out the 
solid pieces, and lay in a slice of tender 
boiled ham. Tet cook about two 
minutes or until browned a little. Then 
turn the ham, and brown the other side 
slightly. Second, put a slice of raw 
ham, from which the skin has been 
taken, in an iron frying-pan, cover it 
with cold water, and let the water 
heat slowly to the boiling-point, then 
drain, and dry the ham on a cloth. 
Dry the frying-pan, and put in the 
ham. Let cook slowly until browned a 
little on one side, then turn the ham to 
brown the other side. Third, put a 
slice of raw ham in a hot frying-pan. 



114 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Let cook slowly until browned on one 
side, then turn the ham to brown the 
other side. 



Query i 155.— Mrs. J. D. H., Concord, N. H.: 
"Recipe for a raspberry charlotte made of 
bread." 

Raspberry Charlotte 

Butter a pudding-dish; sprinkle in a 
layer of coarse bread crumbs (use the 
crumb free from crust) , put in a table- 
spoonful of butter in little bits, here 
and there, then a few grains of salt, 
a layer of fresh or canned raspberries, 
and a sprinkling of sugar. Continue in 
this way until the dish is filled, using 
about equal measures of fruit and 
crumbs, but having the last layer of 
crumbs. Cover and bake half an hour. 
Then remove the cover, to brown the 
top. Serve hot with cream. 



Query 1156. — L. S., Montreal, Canada: 
"Suggestions as to dietary for a man troubled 
with flatulency and uric acid." 

Diet to avoid Flatulency and 
Uric Acid 
Meats — particularly beef — and sweets 
are the chief sources of uric acid. 
Flatulency is largely occasioned (not 
caused) by fried foods, pork in any 
form, red-blooded, salted or smoked 
fish, dried beans, onions, vegetables 
of the cabbage family, pastry, sauces, 
preserves, cheese, and pickles. Coffee, 
particularly when taken with cream 
or sugar, should be added to this list. 
Melons, raspberries, strawberries, and 
tomatoes are among the articles of 
which one can partake and another 
cannot without digestive disturbance. 
Now as to the articles that may prob- 
ably be eaten: The white varieties 
of fish, broiled or boiled, and sometimes 
baked, if basted with milk or broth 
rather than fat, may be eaten. No. 
dressing should be cooked with the 
fish. Use butter melted by the heat of 
the fish for sauce. Eggs carefully 
cooked, but not fried, lamb a year old, 



boiled or broiled and occasionally 
baked, chicken boiled and occasionally 
baked without dressing, are also allow- 
able. The quantity of lamb or chicken 
eaten at one meal should be small. 
Twice a week, at dinner, these, alternated 
with fish as above, will be found ample 
to keep up strength and give variety 
to the dinner. Almonds and pecan 
nuts, if these agree with one, may be 
eaten plain with bread or combined 
with lettuce and fruit with French 
dressing as salad. Oranges, pineapples, 
peaches, dates, figs, cooked prunes 
or pears, or very ripe bananas, may be 
used in these salads. Delicately cooked 
cheese can often be eaten, but do not 
repeat, if the cheese disturbs. Dry 
toast, French bread, Southern beaten 
biscuit, and shredded wheat biscuit, 
toasted, will be found the most satis- 
factory forms of bread. Cereals in 
small quantity can generally be eaten, 
occasionally, if they are well masticated 
and taken without sugar. A little 
cream is better than a quantity of 
milk. Let the cereal be well cooked 
and dry enough to chew. There are 
people who are unable even to taste 
breakfast mushes in any form without 
causing indigestion. 

In vegetables, spinach, lettuce, celery, 
asparagus, green peas, summer squash, 
cooked cucumbers, string beans, and 
white potatoes, baked or boiled, taken 
in moderation, are usually digested 
without trouble. 

Hot water is the best beverage 
for one troubled with flatulency. Sip 
a cup of this half an hour before meals, 
and drink sparingly of it during the 
meal. 

Query 1157. — Mrs. S. J.: "Recipe for crys- 
talizing flowers and mint leaves," 

To crystalize Flowers and Mint 
Leaves 

This recipe was secured by Mrs. 
J. D. Chandler from the chef of a candy 
kitchen. We have not as yet tried 



Advertisements 



Investigate Packing-house 
Conditions Yourself 



Many readers of this magazine 
live in Boston, while thousands 
of others visit Boston from time 
to time. To all those who can 
do so we extend a cordial invi- 
tation to come and see how 
Squire's Pork Products are pre- 
pared. 

Every part of our immense 
plant at East Cambridge is open 
for inspection at all times, and 
regular guides are in constant at- 
tendance. You will find the trip 
a pleasant, interesting, and in- 
structive one. Take an East 
Cambridge car, and get off at 
Seventh Street. 

During the past few months, 
since Western Packing-house 
conditions and methods have 
been given such wide publicity, 
various newspapers have sent 
their representatives out to Cam- 
bridge to visit our plant. They 
were, undoubtedly, looking for 
something to expose. 

These keen-eyed newspaper 
men have come announced and 



unannounced, and at all times of 
day. But in every case their 
published reports have been 
words of praise instead of words 
of censure. As one reporter 
put it, "The Squire people are 
ten years ahead of government 
requirements, and probably al- 
ways will be.'* 

And now we want to call 
your attention to one of our 
products that you ought to have 
a frequent use for at this season 
of the year. We refer to 
Squire's Boiled Ham. 

The hams themselves are from 
young, corn-fed stock, are mild 
sugar-cured by a private process 
used by this company for sixty 
years, are cooked to perfection in 
kitchens as clean as your own, 
and are double-wrapped in germ- 
proof parchment paper. You can 
buy a whole ham or a single pound 
from your regular dealer. For 
lunch, for supper, or for sand- 
wiches you will find Squire's 
Boiled Ham delicious. 



Buy goods you KNOW about. All our original packages are plainly marked with our 
name. Insist on seeing it. Our best grades of sausage and Frankforts are put up in 
double parchment-wrapped packages. It is to your advantage to buy them in this way, as 
you know exactly what you are getting, and receive them in the best possible condition. 

JOHN P. SQUIRE a COMPANY 

BOSTON, MASS. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

ix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the recipe, and shall be pleased to know 
whether it be found satisfactory. 

Dip the leaves in gum arabic water, 
and dry them on glass. Then make a 
syrup boiled to 333^ degrees, and cool 
it to blood heat. Then lay in the 
leaves, which have been coated with 
the gum and dried, and let them re- 
main over night, — namely, twelve to 
fourteen hours, — covered with a wire 
screen to hold them in the syrup. 
Skim off the sugar crystals, and turn 
the syrup off very gently, then invert 
the rack with the leaves on it. Spread 
them out upon the rack, that they may 
drain, and let them dry on it for two 
days or upon glass. Rose petals and 
violets may be done in the same way. 



Query 1158. — Mrs. H. G., Pittsburg, Pa.: 
"Recipe for cleared clam broth or bouillon." 

Clam Bouillon 
"^ Scrub a peck of clams very thor- 
oughly. Put them in a large kettle 
with a quart of water, cover close, 
and let cook until the shells are well 
opened. Drain the broth from the 
shells and from the kettle. Let cool 
a little, then for each two quarts of broth 
beat the whites of three eggs slightly, 
and add with the crushed shells of the 
eggs to the broth. Set the saucepan 
over the fire, and stir constantly until 
the broth boils. Let boil about five 
minutes, then add half a cup of cold 
water, and draw to a cooler place on 
the range. After ten minutes strain 
through a doubled fold of cheese-cloth 
laid over a colander. Reheat before 
serving. 



Query 1159. — V. H., Washington, D.C. : 
"Recipe for Saratoga chips." 

Saratoga Chips 
Pare potatoes of uniform size, and 
cut them in thin slices of equal thick- 
ness throughout. With care these may 
be cut with a thin sharp knife. Spe- 
cial cutters are made for the purpose. 



Didn't Believe 

That Coffee was the Real Trouble 

Some people flounder around, and take 
everything that's recommended, but 
finally find that coffee is the real cause 
of their troubles. An Oregon man says : 

' 'For twenty-five years I was troubled 
with my stomach. I was a steady coffee- 
drinker, but didn't suspect that as the 
cause. I took almost anything which 
some one else had been cured with, 
but to no good. I was very bad 
last summer, and could not work at 
times. 

' 'On Dec. 2, 1902, I was taken so bad 
the doctor said I could not live over 
twenty-four hours at the most, and I 
made all preparations to die. I could 
hardly eat anything, — everything dis- 
tressed me ; and I was weak and sick all 
over. When, in that condition, coffee 
was abandoned, and I was put on 
Postum, the change in my feelings 
came quickly after the drink that was 
poisoning me was removed. 

* 'The pain and sickness fell away 
from me, and I began to get well day by 
day, so I stuck to it until now I am 
well and strong again, can eat heartily, 
with no headache, heart trouble, or 
the awful sickness of the old coffee days. 
I drink all I wish of Postum without 
any harm, and enjoy it immensely. 

' 'This seems like a strong story, but 
I would refer you to the First National 
Bank, the Trust Banking Company, or. 
any merchant of Grant's Pass, Ore., 
in regard to my standing; and I will 
send a sworn statement of this if you 
wish. You can also use my name." 
Name given by Postum Company, 
Battle Creek, Mich. 

Still there are many who persistently 
fool themselves by saying, ' 'Coffee 
doesn't hurt me." A ten days' trial of 
Postum in its place will tell the truth 
and many times save life. ' 'There's 
a reason." 

Look for the little book, ' 'The Road 
to Wellville," in packages. 



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We make three kinds — Malt Vinegar 
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a special manner from selected barley 
malt. Its delightful aroma and smooth- 
ness make it indispensable where fine 
flavor is desired. 

You can buy Heinz Pure Vinegar at 
any reliable grocer's in sealed bottles or 
by measure. But be sure you are pro- 
tected by the name HEINZ, for vine- 
gar is an article easily s-ubstituted. 

Heinz Vinegars with Heinz Pure 
Olive Oil make a. salad combina- 
tion unsurpassed. Others of the 
57 Varieties are Heinz Sweet Pic- 
kles, Chow Chow, India Relish, 
Preserved Fruits, Baked Beans, etc. 

H. J. HEINZ COMPANY, 




" The Girl in the White Cap " 
will send you a helpful booklet 
about vinegar if you write for it. 



New York 
Chicago 



Pittsburgh 
London 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School, Magazine. 

xi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Set the prepared potatoes, covered 
with cold water, in a cool place for an 
hour or longer. A piece of ice in the 
water is of advantage. When ready to 
fry, drain and dry the potatoes in a soft 
cloth. Fry, a few at a time, to a pale 
amber color. Drain on soft paper, 
sprinkle with salt, and serve at once. 
The best results will be obtained, other 
things being favorable, when fat that 
has not been previously used for fry- 
ing is used. Other conditions for suc- 
cess are chilled potatoes, well dried, and 
fat of a temperature to cook before col- 
oring the potato. 



Query ii6o. — Mrs. H., Brookline, Mass.: 
"Recipe for inexpensive cake made of sour 



cream. 



Sour Cream Cake 



Sift together two cups of sifted 
flour, half a teaspoonful of soda, half 
a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful 
of mace, and one cup of sugar. Beat 
one egg. Add one cup of thick sour 
cream, and stir into the dry mixture. 
Add half a cup of sultana raisins or 
cleaned currants, and beat thoroughly. 
Bake in small tins about twenty-five 
minutes. 



Query ii6i. — A. M. O., Providence, R.I.: 
"Recipe for banana or corn fritters and the 
sweet clear sauce served with them. How- 
can I color ice-cream violet and give it the 
taste of violet? In the recipe for canning 
red raspberries in the June-July magazine 
how is the currant juice prepared?" 

Banana Fritters No. i 
Sift together one cup of flour and 
half a teaspoonful of salt. Drop the 
yolks of two eggs into the flour, then 
slowly add half a cup of water or sweet 
milk, stirring constantly meanwhile. 
When about half of the liquid has been 
added, beat the mixture very thor- 
oughly, then add the rest of the milk. 
Cover the batter, and set it aside for 
an hour or longer. When ready to 
use, beat in the whites of two eggs, 



Back to the Pulpit 

What Food did for a Clergyman 

A minister of Elizabethtown tells how 
Grape-nuts food brought him back to 
his pulpit: ' 'Some five years ago I had 
an attack of what seemed to be la 
grippe, which left me in a complete 
state of collapse, and I suffered for some 
time with nervous prostration. My 
appetite failed, I lost flesh till I was a 
mere skeleton. Life was a burden to me. 
I lost interest in everything and almost 
in everybody save my precious wdfe. 

' 'Then, on the recommendation of 
some friends, I began to use Grape-nuts 
food. At that time I was a miserable 
skeleton, without appetite, and hardly 
able to walk across the room; had ugly 
dreams at night, no disposition to en- 
tertain or be entertained, and began to 
shun society. 

' 'I finally gave up the regular minis- 
try. Indeed, I could not collect my 
thoughts on any subject, and became 
almost a hermit. After I had been us- 
ing Grape-nuts food for a short time, 
I discovered that I was taking on new 
life, and my appetite began to improve. 
I began to sleep better, and my weight 
increased steadily. I had lost some 
fifty pounds, but under the new food 
regime I have regained almost my 
former weight, and have greatly im- 
proved in every way. 

' 'I feel that I owe much to Grape- 
nuts, and can truly recommend the 
food to all who require a powerful re- 
building agent, delicious to taste, and 
always welcome." Name given by 
Postum Company, Battle Creek, Mich. 
A true natural road to regain health or 
hold it is by use of a dish of Grape-nuts 
and cream morning and night. Or 
have the food made into some of the 
many delicious dishes given in the little 
recipe book found in packages. 

Ten days' trial of Grape-nuts helps 
many. ' 'There's a reason." 

Look in packages for a copy of the 
famous Httle book, ' 'The Road to Well- 
ville." 



Advei-tisements 



-Vf>' 



\M)^' 



Good Candy 

The best confectionery that can 
be bought is that sold under the 
label of Necco Sweets. This label 
was originated as a protection to 
candy purchasers. The Necco 
Sweets label on a box of any 
kind of candy assures its whole- 
someness and goodness. Try a 
box of 



and enjoy the most tempting chocolates you ever tasted — delicate 
in flavor, rich in quality. This is but one example of the superiority 
of Necco Sweets. If you would have the satisfaction of knowing 
that you are buying confections that are absolutely good and whole- 
some, always look for the seal of Necco Sweets. For sale where the 
best confectionery is sold, 

NEW ENGIAND COIMFECTtONERY CO., Boston, Mass. 



RAE'S LUCCA OIL 



IS JUST 

"The Perfection of 
Olive Oil." 

Made from sound, ripe olives grown in Tuscany, "the 
Garden of Italy." Its ABSOLUTE PURITY is 
vouched for by United States government analysis. 



SOLD IN BOTTLES AND TINS OF VARIOUS SIZES. 






S. RAE & CO., 

LEGHORN. TUSCANY, ITALY 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



beaten dry. Remove the skins and 
coarse threads from the bananas. Cut 
the pulp in halves crosswise, then 
lengthwise. Dip the pieces, one at a 
time, in the batter, and fry to a hght 
amber color in deep fat. 

Banana Fritters No. 2 
Sift together one cup and a third of 
flour, one level teaspoonful of baking- 
powder, and one -fourth a teaspoonful 
of salt. Beat one &gg. Add two- 
thirds a cup of milk, and stir into the 
dry ingredients. Peel and scrape the 
coarse threads from tw^o ripe bananas. 
Cut the pulp in small pieces, and stir it 
into the flour mixture. Drop by spoon- 
fuls into deep fat, and fry to a delicate 
brown. Prepare the batter an hour 
or more before using. Add the ba- 
nanas when ready to fry the batter. 



to what should be written on the card. My 
mother makes her home with us, and her 
friends will be included in those invited 
Should her card be sent in the envelope with 
mine? Suggest one or two simple menus 
suitable for the occasion." 



Form of Invitation to Evening 

Reception 

The visiting card is admissible for in- 
vitations to evening receptions, though, 
if a large number of invitations are to 
be sent out, a card engraved especially 
for the occasion would look better, 
and would not increase the expense 
appreciably. Send your mother's card 
in the envelope with your own. Write 
at the top of your card, "To meet Mr. 

and Mrs. ," then below your name 

"At Home October Fifth, from 8 till 
II P.M.," as: — 



Clear Sauce for Banana Fritters 
Boil two cups of sugar and one cup of 
water five or six minutes or to a syrup 
of good body, and flavor with wine, 
vanilla, or lemon juice. The sauce 
rnay be thickened with a teaspoonful 
of arrowroot, mixed with cold water to 
pour, thus making a less sweet sauce, 
as the syrup need not be boiled but 
two or three minutes. 

Violet Ice Cream 
Tint w^hite ice-cream with violet 
color-paste, and flavor with violet 
extract. 

Currant Juice for Canned Rasp- 
berries 

Simply heat the currants over hot 
water, and express the juice. It is 
then ready to add to the jars of red 
raspberries. 



Query 1162. — Mrs. J. H., Newark, N.J.: 
"In October I am to give an evening recep- 
tion for my young sister and her husband, 
lately married. We wish to invite about 
sixty guests. Can my visiting cards be used 
for the invitations? If so, kindly advise as 



To meet Mr. and Mrs. G- 




Plrs. J. % i^ctocomb 




Al Home 




October Fifth, from 8 tilT ii p.m. 




^trrct i'lctoark, 


^.3: 



Menu for Evening Reception 

Chicken-and-Celery Salad. 

Olives. Salted Nuts. 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

Assorted Cake. 

Vanilla Ice-cream. Peach Ice-cream. 

Coffee. Fruit Cup. 



'^e Sss^e^r lisease germs and foal gases, tne waste-p^pes. 
(Si3UC8, closets, cellars and every suspected spot snoolc 
^ regularly purified with 




Chlorides 

DisinfGctskrtt* 

Sold in quart bottles only, by druggists and high-class grocerg; 
An illustrated booklet with valuable sanitary hints mailed fret. 
i^Mf^* HSNRY B= PLATTf 4a Cliff Street, N«w York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School. Magazine. 

xiv 



Advertisements 



BAKER'S 
EXTRACTS 



The next time you buy Vanilla, 



try 




Bake] 



Vanilla 



Pure extract of vanilla beans, 
mad^ by a new process. It gives 
your food a 7iaiural fruit flavor 
and is healthftd. Unlike the 
chemical and water combinations 
so commonly sold as Vanilla. 
Your grocer can supply you if 
you ask : Baker's comes by 



asking. 
Complies with all Food L; 



aws 



^ 




IT IS EASY WITH 

ELECTRO 
SILICOH 

to Clean and Polish 

SILVERWARE 

Send your address for a FREE SAMPIiE, or 15c. IB: 
Stamps for a full sized box. Grocers sell it. 
THE ELECTRO SILICON CO., 30 Cliff St., New York. 



■^-- 



h 






w 



\^' -^ ^y/j 



Tie> 



They never disappoint in any way, but make cooking a real pleasure. Everything comes from 
a HUB oven delightfully crisp and just the right tint. The best cooks use it. ^The HUB 
is the Range used and endorsed by the Boston, Providence, New York, and other leading 
Cooking Schools. This in itself is proof of its superiority. ^ Examine the Broiler Hood 
used in connection with a new French Sectional Top. No other range has it. ^ Made with 
or without gas attachments. ^Manufactured and warranted by 

SMITH & ANTHONY COMPANY, 48-34 Union Street. BOSTON. MASS. 



Wten you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 

XV 



Book Reviews 



A Cook-book for Nurses. By Sarah 
C. Hill. Flexible cloth. Price 75 
cents, net. Boston: Whitcomb & 
Barrows. 

Five chapters comprise this manual: 
fluid diet; Hght, soft diet; soft or con- 
valescent diet; special diets; formulae 
for infant feeding. Menus are given 
for typical diets. 

A condensation of recipes has been 
the author's aim, bringing together in 
tabular form recipes identical in method 
of cooking and differing in only one or 
two ingredients. 

It may be said of the book that it 
contains neither too much nor too little. 
The author, herself instructor in cooking 
in the Diet School of the Michael Reese 
Hospital of Chicago, prepared the hand- 
book especially for nurses, and it is well 
adapted for the immediate reference 
and use of nurses. 

In no wise, perhaps, is the spirit of 
the age better exemplified than in the 
care of the sick and convalescent. The 
best approved ways in sanitation and 
diet are being widely diffused in hospi- 
tal and home through the land. Books 
on diet, cooking, and hygiene, are of 
steadily increasing importance. 



"Did she make you feel at home?" 
"No, but she made me wish I was." — 
Brooklyn Life. 



The Doctor's Story 

Mrs. Rogers lay in her bed, 

Bandaged and blistered from foot to head, 

Bandaged and blistered from head to toe, 

Mrs. Rogers was very low. 

Bottle and saucers, spoon and cup, 

On the table stood bravely up; 

Physic of high and low degree ; 

Calomel, catnip, boneset tea, — 

Everything a body could bear 

Excepting light and water and air. 

I opened the blinds, the day was bright, 

And God gave Mrs. Rogers some light. 

I opened the window, the day was fair, 

And God gave Mrs. Rogers some air. 

Bottles and blisters, powders and pills, 

Catnip, boneset, syrup and squills, 

Drugs and medicines, high aad low, 

I threw them as far as I could throw. 

"What are you doing?" my patient cried. 

"Frightening Death," I coolly replied. 

"You are crazy!" a visitor said. 

I flung a bottle at her head. 

Deacon Rogers he came to me, 

"Wife is coming round," said he. 

"I re-Uy think she'll worry thru: 

She scolds me just as she used to do. 

All the people have poohed and slurred, 

And the neighbors have had their word: 

'Twas better to perish, some of 'em say. 

Than be cured in such an irregular way." 

"Your wife," said I, "had God's good care. 

And His remedies, — light, water, and air. 

All the doctors, beyond a doubt, 

Couldn't have cured Mrs. Rogers without." 

The deacon smiled, and bowed his head. 

"Then your bill is nothing," he said. 

"God's be the glory, as you say. 

God bless you, doctor ! Good-day ! good-day !" 

If ever I doctor that woman again, 

I'll give her medicine made by men. 

Medical World. 



CORSET 

CLASP Yl^g 




EVERY PAIR 
WARRANTED 



CLASP TOP STYLE 

For attaching to lower edge 

of Corset. 
Quickly adjusted or removed. 

HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

OF YOUR DEALER 

Or sample piir on receipt of price. 

Mercerized, 25 cents. Silk, SO cents. 

THE NAMEi^ 
is stamped on 
every loop 



GEORGE FROST COMPANY, Makers, Boston, Mass., U.S.A. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 



THE ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE f 



A bottle of Lea & Perrins' 
Sauce is one of the most 
useful items in every well- 
equipped kitchen. No other 
seasoning improves the flavor 
of so many different dishes. 

Beware of Imitations 
Look for Lea & Perrins' signature 

John Duncan's Sons, Agts., N. Y. 



& PEI 

JESTERSHim 



o>iLr GOoo 



^ACEET^E 




The finger of pride is the one the chef points 
toward the source of all his successes. All 
good cooks recognize the fact that success 
depends upon a perfect range, and universally 
agree that the perfect range is the Magee. 
These ranges are absolutely reliable, sightly 
in appearance, as well as being easy and 
economical to operate. 

Illustrated Booklet, "The Magee Repuiatiori,'"' sent FREE. 

MAGEE FURNACE CO., Nos. 32-38 Union St., Boston, Mass., 

Makers of the celebrated "Magee " Furnaces, Ranges and Stores, 
Steam and Hot Water Heaters. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School, Magazine. 

xvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



w/^^yy/^yy^z/y^z/y^^^^^ 



S 



COFFEE SATISFACTION 




I 



(A BOSTON PRODUCT) 

WHITE 
HOUSE 



g The same hi< 
^ maintained for 



DOES SATISFY 

standard 



more than fifteen years^ § 



S It is packed under the BEST SAN- ^ 
^ ITARY CONDITIONS in the finest, | 
^ cleanest coffee factory in the world. ^ 






the ^eal Thing, J' J' 
A CAREFUL TEST 
PRO VES IT THE BEST 



I 

have ^ 




BEST GROCERS 



: tin cans only 
Never sold 



DWINELL-WRIGHT COMPANY, ^ 

N Principal Coffee Roasters, Boston or Chicago. ^ 



» In I, 2. and 3 lb. air-tigl 

N| ground or pulverized. 

N If your dealer fails to supply it 



SELL IT. 

rt-hole, 

bulk. 

write 



The Summer Diet 

One reassuring statement as to the 
meat supply coming from Chicago was 
brought out before the agricuhural 
committee of the House during the 
recent hearing. This was that none 
of the beef sold while fresh — the 
"cold storage" beef of our summer 
supply — is affected by the improper 
conditions in the packing houses. 
Representative Brooks showed also 
that 92 per cent, of the cattle slaugh- 
tered are sold as fresh meat, leaving 
only 8 per cent, for canning, and that 
practically all the mutton and about 
half the hogs are sold fresh. The 
President's investigators reported 
that the inspection after slaughter 
"appears to be carefully and conscien- 
tiously made." With a little care in 
selecting canned meats there would 
seem to be not much danger in eating 
meat. As a matter of fact, very few 
cases of illness or injury have ever 
been reported from the use of the 
best canned goods, except where 
poison was developed by leaving the 
meat too long in the can after opening. 

But the exposure came at a good 
time, from one point of view. The 
great majority of the city dwellers 
and persons not engaged in hard 
labor out of doors eat much less meat 
in summer than at any other season; 
and many more would no doubt be 
benefited by a less solid and heat- 
producing diet. With the prevalence 
and variety and cheapness of cereals, 
vegetables, and fruit, an abundance 
of fish, fresh and salted, of poultry, 
eggs, milk, and bread, it is not difficult 
to get plenty of agreeable and nourish- 
ing food aside from meat. Persons of 
discernment learn to adapt their diet to 
the state of the weather, as they do 
their clothing. For them there is no 
terror in the "meat scare," which is, 
after all, without substantial founda- 
tion, so far as the great bulk of the 
fresh product consumed by our people 
is concerned. — Boston Herald. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xviii 



Advertisements 




SUMMER 
STRENGTH 

Summer Strength comes 
from a summer food — a food 
that supplies in appetizing and 
digestible form the greatest 
amount of nutriment with the 
least tax upon the stomach and 
bowels — a food that is easily 
and quickly prepared in many 
tempting and dainty ways, giv- 
ing variety to the daily dietary 
at a time when ordinary foods 
pall upon the palate and over- 
tax the digestive powers. 
. Such a food is 

Shredded Whole Wheat- 

an all-day food for the invalid, the convalescent, for the outdoor woman and the 
indoor woman, for the woman whose energies have been depleted by the exac- 
tions of social life or domestic care, for growing children whose bodies demand 
a tissue-building food that does not make them a prey to bowel disorders. 

Shredded Wheat is the cleanest, purest food made on this continent — 
contains more nutriment than meat, is more easily digested, is more economical 
and hence is an ideal summer food. It contains no chemicals or fats, is not 
" treated " or " flavored " with anything ; no " secret process " ; our plant is 
open to the world; over 100,000 visitors last year. 

If you like Shredded Wheat Biscuit for breakfast you will like TRISCUIT 
as a Toast for luncheon or for any meal as a substitute for white flour bread. 
An ideal food for flat-dwellers, light-housekeepers, campers, for picnics, for 
excursions on land or on sea. The best of all wafers for chafing dish cookery. 

The " Vital Question Cook Book " is sent free for the asking. 



THE NATURAL FOOD 
COMPANY 

Niagara Falls, N.Y. 




"It's All in the Shreds" 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine:. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Ifyoumust 

*^ on account of 
your health 

Give up 

DrtnRtno 

Coffe e^ 

WHY NOT TRY 

THE BEST SUBSTITUTE 



m'm 



OLDGmSTMIIX 
WHEiff COFFEE? 

It has all the virtues possible 
in a health drinK ma4ewtth 
wheat— besides being 

Pleasing toihe taste 

-and you oonttire of it- 
Try it and be healthy 

OLD CRIST MILL CHARLESTOWN MASS 




UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 



In camp, picnic* or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
om deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
(^eese. . S^fu^ for book of 4.^ prize receipts. 

WSI. VNDERWOOD CO., BOSTON, NASSo 






Women Wage-earners 

Most of the ills, real and imaginary, 
with which society is afflicted, have 
been, at one time or another, laid at 
the door of the woman wage-earner. 
Race suicide, the decreasing marriage 
rate, the increasing divorce rate, wife 
desertion, undermined domesticity, even 
the disappearance of the cook, have 
been, among other calamities, ascribed 
to the iniquitous tendency of the modern 
woman toward financial independence 
outside the home. It is a simple matter 
to make such charges, and under present 
circumstances impossible either to prove 
or disprove them. We have practically 
no data to indicate the effect, social or 
other, which has followed the entrance 
of women into industrialism. 

That important changes have oc- 
curred since women took to working for 
wages instead of their board, no one 
can doubt. It remains to be proved 
that society has suffered. No one but a 
theorizing sentimentalist ever main- 
tained that women at any period con- 
stituted an idle class. They have, in 
fact, always worked. The share of 
women in the world's toil has probably 
not increased, and there is reason to 
doubt if it has changed radically in 
character. 

In a recent number of the Journal 
of Political Economy, two University of 
Chicago women publish a resume of 
that part of the report of the twelfth 
census which deals with women en- 
gaged in gainful occupations. From 
these statistics it appears that more 
than five million women were earning 
money in 1900, and that the rate of in- 
crease, for the decade, of wage-earning 
women was much greater than the cor- 
responding rate for the employment of 
men. The number of women in in- 
dustry actually increased faster than 
the female population. The gain was 
not confined to the East, where im- 
migration might be supposed to have 
caused it, but was marked in all sec- 
tions of the country. The census 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-Schooi. Magazine. 



XX 



Advertisements 




OLIVE OIL 

producible, for the tables of 
those who discriminate. 



AT ALL DEALERS 



SEVILLE PACKING CO., 

NEW YORK 



Send for illustrated Recipe Booklet, free. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



BREAK FAST TIME 




IS "FER^R.1 S" TIME 




scheduled 303 occupations, and women 
appeared in 295 of them. The only 
occupations in which they are not found 
are the United States army and navy, 
the fire departments, and "helpers to 
roofers, slaters, steam boiler-makers, 
and brass workers." In almost all 
occupations women are increasing. In 
only four important occupations are 
they decreasing, and it is interesting to 
find that the occupations which are be- 
coming unpopular with women are cf a 
character usually described as feminine, 
— dressmakers, seamstresses, servants, 
and waitresses. Women dressmakers 
increased only 17.8 per cent, between 
1890 and 1900; men dressmakers in- 
creased 150 per cent. Women milliners 
increased 40.5 per cent.; men milliners, 
340 per cent. Men appear also to be 
crowding women out of the saloon 
business, the laundries, the tailor shops, 
and, to a certain extent, the cotton 
mills. But women increased in all 
departments of trade and transportation 
120.3 to men's 37.6 per cent. Women 
distanced men in all but one of the five 
large groups of the census classification. 
The exceptional group was that of do- 
mestic and personal ser^'ice. 

The census does not give any real 
information as to the competition be- 
tween men and women in trades and 
professions. One is left to infer that 
men and women are performing sub- 
stantially the same tasks, but even su- 
perficial obser\'ation of the facts dis- 
proves this hypothesis. We really do 
not know just how far, if at all, women 
have displaced men in industry ; neither 
do we know exactly the extent of direct 
competition between the sexes. The 
subject is of great importance. The 
study pubhshed in the Journal of ^Po- 
litical Economy rightly points out that 
"with it is inextricably interwoven the 
vital question of the nature of the work 
to be done by women, the dignity and 
permanence of their position in the 
industrial world, and the effect upon 
them of the work they do."— iV^ York 
Nation. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 



TRY THIS PUNCH 

Juice of three lemons and one or- 
ange, one quart of water, one cup 
of sugar, and one pint of 

Welch's 

Gr^ieJukje 

Add a few slices of orange and 
pineapple, and serve ice-cold. The 
appealing feature of this 
punch is its delicious grape 
flavor, secured only by us- 
ing the pure, rich Concord 
grape juice as prepared by 
Welch. 

You can get Welch's Grape Juice 
from any good grocer or druggist. 
Our recipe book free for the asking. 
Sample three-ounce bottle by mail 
for ten cents. 

Welch Grape Juice Company 
Westfleld, N.Y. 



Sawyer's 



60 YEARS 

THE PEOPLE'S 

CHOICE 




Be Sure You Get 
From Your Dealer 



CRYSTAI* 

Blue 

For the 

Laundry I 

DOUBLE 
STRENGTH 

Sold in 

Sprinklins 
Top Bottles 

Sawyer's Blue 

gives a beautiful 

tint and restores the 

color to linen, laces 

and goods that are 

worn and faded. 

It goes twice as far ^ 
as other Blues \ 

Sawyer's] 




Nature made some of the 
most precious parts of Wheat 
difficult to digest. The ex- 
clusive Malting Process of 

MALT 

BREAKFAST 

POOD 

makes it the easiest to digest 
of all wheat foods, develop- 
ing the fullest nourishment 
and richest flavor Wheat can 
give — the one cereal that 
'«very member of your family 
will like. 

Try it. Read this offer. 

Buy at the grocer's, for that is the 
easiest way to deliver it. Get the 
genuine, with the " Little Dutch 
Girl" on the package. If he has 
none, write to us. We will see 
that you get Malt Breakfast Food, 
wherever you live. We will pay 
full price for the empty package if 
you want your money back. Two 
full pounds to the package (makes 
i6 pounds of food), 15c., or 20c. 
west of the Rockies and in Canada. 
Address Dept. I. 

The MALTED CEREALS CO.. 

105-7 Hudson St., New York 
Factories : Burlington, Vt. 




^! 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School. Magazine. 

xxiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




"HEART-SHAPED" 
WAFFLE IRONS 

bake dainty waffles, shaped as above shown. 
Other irons have cogs like No. 1 in 

diagram and burn the waffle where cogs 

meet, leaving it half-cooked at other places. 

Heart-Shaped Irons have cogs like No. 2, 
producing uniform 
baking. Patent 
grease duct and de- 
tachable joint ensures 
cleanliness. 

Price $1.00 

Express . .50 

Ask your Hardware dealer, or write 

ALFRED ANDRESEN & CO. 

Dept. C 17 

1308 "Washington Avenue, S. 

Minneapolis, Minn. 




CALORIC FIRELESS COOK-STOVE 




THE NEW WAY 

Saves seventy-five per cent, in fuel. 
Economy of time, labor, and energy. 
Better results with less expense. 
All kinds of cooking,— boiled and roasted 
meats, poultry, game, sauces, fish, soups, 
vegetables, cereals, fruits, preserves, Boston 
brov^n bread, puddings, and the like. 
Simple to use, no expense to maintain. 
Results guaranteed as claimed, or money 
returned after fifteen days' trial. 
Illustrated booklet, shov\/ing what we cook and 
how we do it, sent free. 

CALORIC FIRELESS COOK-STOVE CO. 

85 PEARL STREET GRAND RAPIDS, MICH. 



Malnutrition Cause of Crime 

A simple method of abolishing vice 
and crime in large cities is announced 
by Professor Alexander Haig, the dis- 
tinguished English physiologist and 
physician to the Metropohtan Hospital 
in London. The criminal classes, ac- 
cording to him, are recruited from the 
pauper classes, who, after they "lose 
heart," become unemployable, and de- 
generate into chronic loafers, beggars, 
and thieves. Writing to the Medical 
Record of New York on the subject, Dr. 
Haig says : — 

"I beheve that, when these people 
lose heart, it means that the heart 
muscle is at last sharing with the 
other muscles in the general malnu- 
trition. As the result of this, the heart 
is, perhaps, never again able to keep up 
the same blood pressure to produce 
the same muscular nutrition, and the 
former strength of muscle and nerve, 
or of will power. 

"No doubt, if such a person were 
carefully dieted and rested for months, 
that person would return to a normal 
or approximately normal condition. 
These poor people, however, practically 
never have this chance." 

Professor Haig says it is the duty of 
physiologists to point out to the govern- 
ment the danger of underfed classes of 
the population. 



It described his Cheese 

The girl asked the polite salesman if 
he had good cheese. 

"We have some lovely cheese," was 
the smiling answer. 

"You should not say 'lovely cheese,' " 
she corrected. 

"Why not? It is," he declared. 

' ' Because ' ' — with boarding-school 
dignity— "lovely ' should be used 
tojqualify only something that is alive." 

"Well/' he retorted, "I'll stick to 
lovely.' " — New York Press. 

^1 ^> i^ 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxiv 



J 



Advertisements 




Put Up Fruit tliat WHl KEEP 

The jar is the important factor in home preserving of fruits and vegetables. 
It has more to do with your success or failure than has the recipe you follow. 
Can you tell a good jar when you see it ? You know that all lamp chimneys are 
not good — neither are all glass jars. There is an easy way to tell a good jar, and 
that is to look for the name 



MIA 




Many women believe that all that is necessary is to ask for " Mason" jars. Mason 
only means style and shape — 7iot quality. Ask for ATLAS MaSOn and get the best — 
the first perfect glass jar made. Don't risk common jars with poor tops that will not 
seal properly, and that break off when slightest pressure is applied. The smooth, 
strong top of the ATLAS is a noticeable point of advantage over all other makes of jars. 

A WIDE-MOUTH JAR — called ATLAS Special Mason (see illustration) — is an 
improvement sure to be appreciated, as it permits preserving large fruit whole— z. 
method which adds much to the fine appearance of fruit in the jar, besides bringing it 
to the table in the same attractive shape. 

Another great improvement is a Simplex Glass Cap, which fits any old or new 
Mason jar. If you dislike the metal cap, they may be replaced, at trifling cost, with 
the all-glass Simplex Cap. 

A Valuable Book of Preserving Recipes will be sent free to any 
- woman sending her grocer's name and stating if he sells the Atlas jar. 

HAZEL-ATLAS GLASS CO., Wheeling, W. Va. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Ck»OKiNG-ScHOOL Magazine. 

XXV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



IS YOUR HUSBAND PROUD OF 
YOUR COOKERY? 



Wide Mouth 
Sure Seal 
Sanitary 
Air-tight 




Economy Jar 



Likes good things 
to eat, does he? 

Wouldn't it be a 
pleasant surprise to 
him in the winter 
time to set out some 
sliced tomatoes on a 
pretty white plate, fixed 
up just the way he likes 
them — 
Or some sweet com on 
the cob as juicy and creamy 
as the day it was plucked, 
or green peas, or — 
Say, a dish of brook trout — 
Or some other article of food 
of which he is particularly fond, but 
which cannot be obtained, for love 
or money, out of season ? 
Well — 

The ECONOMY Jar enables you 
to give him that very surprise. 
The Economy Jar is a wide mouth, 
self-sealing, perfectly air-tight jar. Nothing else like it. 

By Its use you can perfectly preserve fruit, whole or sliced, 
vegetables, fish, game, or any other article of food, without the 
use of preservatives or any means except heat and pure water. 

No burned or cut fingers when you use the Economy, no 
rubber rmgs to contaminate, no dangerous acids to develop. 

The next time the man of the house brings in a basket of trout 
or game, just put up some of them in an Economy Jar. Then — 
without saymg a word to him— set them out for his dinner some 
day next winter. They will be as sweet and wholesome and ap- 
petizing as the day they were put up. The treat will be like a 
vacation day in the woods or mountains. A single dozen Econ- 
omy Jars will prove this to you. Get them at your dealer's. 

Sit down right now and write us your name and the name of 
your dealer, and state whether he sells the Economy Jar, and we 
will send you — FREE— a booklet of recipes, tell you all 
about preserving the Economy way, tell you where you may buy 
the Jars, and all about "pleasant ways to surprise the man's 
palate" without a penny of cost to you orany trouble further than 
writing us one short letter. 

KERR GLASS MANUFACTURING COMPANY, 

249 Hoyt St., Portland, Oregon. 
Eaitern Office, Department W, Phiiade phia, Pa. 



Quilted 
Mattress Pads 



^ Money spent wisely means comfort 
and pleasure to the spender. You 
go to bed to rest. Quilted Mattress 
Pads will make your bed comfortable 
as well as keep yours and baby's bed 
in a perfect sanitary condition. 

QThe cost is small, and when 
washed they are as good as new. 

flAsk your dry goods dealer. 



EXCELSIOB QUILTING COMPANY 

15 Layfht Street, New YorK, N.Y. 



Lemon Syrup from the Fruit 

To make a rich lemon syrup, select 
eight or ten bright yellow, ripe, juicy 
lemons, and grate off the yellow part 
into a large mortar. Cover the grat- 
ing with about a half-pound of granu- 
lated sugar, and with the pestle rub 
thoroughly together. 

If the mixture is allowed to stand for 
three or four hours, the result is better. 

When ready to finish, cut the lemons 
and extract the juice. Add the juice 
to the grated rind and sugar, and stir 
until it is all, or nearly all, dissolved. 

Now take a one-gallon bottle, and 
with a funnel and piece of cheese-cloth 
strain the liquid into the bottle, agitat- 
ing with a spoon until all the syrup has 
passed through. Pour over the residue 
about eight ounces of boiling hot water. 
This will- carry through any surplus 
of sugar, and will soften the rind, which 
should now be thoroughly squeezed, 
to extract the oil and yellow color 
as much as possible. Add a good 
heavy syrup (sugar and water boiled 
together) to nearly fill the bottle, and 
shake up thoroughly. 

No coloring, acid, or foam extract 
should be added. This syrup should be 
used up inside of two days, if possible, 
and it is better to make it every day. 
It can be used in a number of ways, and 
will go quickly. Use in sweetening 
your lemonades, and see how it will im- 
prove their flavor. — Druggists' Circular. 



Mrs. Mitcheh, 86 M Street, South 
Boston, is prepared to take orders for 
all kinds of jellies and marmalades. 
Mrs. Mitchell excels in crystahzing 
orange and grape-fruit peel, rose and 
mint leaves, and other candied articles. 
We are pleased to refer inquirers for 
these items to the foregoing address. 




DAINTY 

HOUSEKEEPERS 

PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POUSH. 

Joseph Dixon Oucible Conpaay, 
Jersey City, N. J 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvi 



Advertisements 




Ice Cream, Sherbets, and Ices 

Easily Made in a Few Minutes with 



JeU-O ICE C R E AM Powder 

{Approved by Pure Food Contmis toners) 

CHANGES the old, uncertain, and laborious method of making Ice Cream into a pleasant 
pastime, while the cost is less and the quality better. Simply add the contents of one 
package to a quart of milk, or milk and cream mixed, and freeze. No cooking, nothing else 
to add. Everything but the ice and milk in the package, and approved by the Pure Food 
Commissioners. Makes Ice Cream cost about one cent a plate. In constant use by Lest 
families. Enables any one to make and freeze Ice Cream in ten minutes. 

If your grocer does not keep it, send his name and 23 cents/or two packages by mail. RECIPE BOOK FREE. 
THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO.. Le Roy, New York. 



v^ ^ VISIT THEHB^^UTIFUIy^ 



^c^ 




"-:l^*^-: 



MNK SCOTIA 

DOMimOlSr ATLANHC RAIIW^UM 
B0ST0yT0TAE?M0VrH.HA[MX:ST.J6MI 



The main highway of travel from Boston to all 
points in the Maritime Provinces is via Yar- 
t^iy '^ mouth. Nova Scotia. Daily service from Long 
Wharf (foot State St.) (except Saturday) in effect 
'1 about July 1, the magnificent steamers "Prince 
^^^- George," " Prince Arthur," and " Boston," in com- 
mission. Meantime, sailings Tuesday and Friday 
-X at 2 P.M. For all information, rates, folders, tours, etc., 
'' particularly illustrated booklets, "Summer Homes in Nova 
Scotia^' and "Vacation Days in Nova Scotia," write 

J. F. MASTERS, New England Supt., 

Long Wharf, Boston, Mass. 
F. H. ARMSTRONG, G. P. A. ^^^^^^ 

KentvUIe,NovaScotia ^5^>^^ 





Winn you write g.dvertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Ice-cream 
Always 

in 
Season 
JunKet 
Tablets 

Make 
tKe Best 

We mail postpaid ten tablets to make ten 
quarts for ten cents, and give you the charm- 
ing brochure, " Junket Dainties," free, 

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 
Box 2507. Little Falls, N.Y. 



<§to. % cuts Co 



272 CongrejSjS Mtttt 



f^alf^tone 
SHork a 
^pecialtg 



^^^Ilttfitrating: 
Jlprtnttngf 

^^ t\i hoofed 
^Raffa^ines, Cat 
alog:6, anH Pam 
pl)let£(, latu anH 
KailrnaU aSEorit 
Pofiterg, ©ffice 
^tationerp, etc 



Against Sarah's Rules 

That Philadelphia conservatism is not 
confined to the "upper classes" is in- 
stanced by the experience of a woman 
from a Western city, who recently came 
to Hve in Philadelphia. She hired for a 
cook a middle-aged negress: 

One afternoon Mrs. B. went into her 
kitchen, and said: "Sarah, I neglected 
to provide anything in the way of meat 
for tea to-night, but we will have some 
wafiies. We are all so fond of them." 
The cook said nothing. 

When the bell rang for tea, the family 
assembled, but there was no indica- 
tion of any waffles. Mrs. B. sent for 
the cook. 

"Sarah, where are our waffles?" 

Sarah drew herself up. In a voice 
that trembled with outraged dignity 
she replied : — 

"Mis' B., I'se done cooked in de first- 
est f am 'lies of Philadelphia for mo' dan 
thirty yeahs, an' I nebber knowed any 
of 'em to hab waffles for tea Sunday 
night. You cain't hab no waffles !" 

And they did not. — Philadelphia 
Times. 

The Boston & Maine Railroad have 
published 20 post-cards of New Eng- 
land scenery. These cards are beau- 
tifully printed in colors, and no col- 
lection of cards will be complete with- 
out this series. The 20 cards will 
be sent postpaid for 30'cents in stamps. 
Address Passenger Department, Boston 
& Maine Railroad, Boston, Mass. 



A simple and effective way to 
remove fruit or vegetable stains from 
the hands is to use raw tomato. 
When in season, it is much cheaper 
than lemon, and answers the same 
purpose. L. 



These trade-mark crisscross lines on every package, 



GLUTE 

SPECIAL D 
K. C.WHOL 

Unlike all 

For b 

Farwell & Rhines, 




For , 
DYSPEPSIA. 

FLOUR. 
AT FLOUR. 

Ask Grocers, 
write 

own.N.Y..U.S.A« 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxviii 



THE BOSTON 

:goking-school 

MAGAZINE 



t 



r*CULINAR>Tr«SCIENCJE:-AND 





FOR LEAVENING I ALWAYS U5E 





The Wholesome 

BAKING POWDER 

Pound Can 30cts. 
Half Pound Can ISds. 



Restores to flour 

the nutritious properties 

lost in millina 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School, Magazine. 



I 



Autumn Days 

By Kate Matson Post 



The summer had been so glad and gay, 
It had gone at a headlong pace, 

Dame Natm-e adding new charms each day 
To her wild bewitching grace. 

We fancied that, when the autumn came. 
The days would be dreary and long, 

But the rustling wind 'mongst yellow leaves 
Is sweet as the wild bird's song. 



The squirrels are busy in the trees, 
And the blue jay calls loud and clear. 

They feast as they gather in their stores. 
They know the winter is near. 

The chestnut burrs hang heavy with nuts,. 

And the coons grow fat on the corn, 
And one is acting a foolish part 

The wild folk's wisdom to scorn. 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. XT, 



OCTOBER 



No. 3. 




Instruction in Sewing 



The Public Schools of To-day 



Bv Mary H. Northend 



TO one not in touch with the 
methods of the modern pub- 
He school a visit to one of 
the least progressive of them is a rev- 
elation. From the earliest grade to 



the finished product of the high school 
everything tends to an all-round de- 
velopment. Even in the kindergarten 
this fact is derAonstrated. A child, 
recentlv asked bv a benevolent elderlv 



ii8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



lady if he had mastered "his alphabet," 
fixed an utterly uncomprehending eye 
upon her, looking as nearly blank as it 
is possible for an up-to-date kinder- 
garten child to look. 

Instead of the alphabet, which was 
considered the first proper mental food 
for young children in those dim and 
unenlightened days of which we ourselves 
are a product, one's first taste of educa- 
tion in these days, may we say, is a 
lesson inspiring patriotism by the fol- 
lowing game. The children are formed 
into two lines, a "street," while a 
company of children, waving flags and 
led by a captain, march impressively 
down the "street" to inspiring music 
and the cheers of an excited populace. 
Or one's first impressions may be along 
some other line of thought, similarly 
developed. 

The morning talks by the teacher 
on pertinent subjects keep these chil- 



dren informed on subjects of which their 
parents, in some cases, have ideas 
decidedly misty. 

Art, too, has its place in these early 
years. Drawing from life models, the 
model generally being one of the chil- 
dren, is popular. The results in almost 
all instances, while naturally crude, 
show clearly the thought conveyed by 
the pose of the child-model. 

In many schools, sewing is taught 
as one of the regular studies. Beauti- 
ful specimens of embroidery and drawn- 
work are exhibited as the work of the 
children. 

In the tenement districts the teach- 
ing of these branches enables the child, 
even at a tender age, to do much toward 
helping the overworked and often 
ignorant mother to clothe decently a 
large family. 

The proper cooking of food is also 
taught, and is of inestimable value, par- 




Class in Cooking 



The Public Schools of To-day 



119 



ticularly in these same tenement dis- 
tricts. 

The proper ventilation of a room, 
with the care and making of a bed, 
and, in some cases, simple lessons in 
nursing, are doing much to bring 
before parents as well as children 
the necessary laws of health and hy- 
giene. 

Physical culture is taught almost 
from the time the pupil enters school, 
with simple exercises at first up to the 
well-equipped high -school gymnasium, 
from which the pupil, if he has made 
the most of his opportunities, may 
emerge erect, with good red blood 
coursing through his veins. 

For the girl the introduction of 
basket-ball teams has done much, 
giving her a taste for the more ener- 
getic and stimulating exercises of her 
brother. These, with the ball teams 
for the boys, do much in the inter- 



scholastic games to promote loyalty to 
and pride in one's own school. 

Gardening, too, has been introduced 
even into some city schools, where small 
tracts of unused land are being tilled 
by the children. Each child is given 
a small plot on which he may raise his 
own particular choice of crop. 

Manual training is exceedingly pop- 
ular, not only with the boys, but with 
the girls; and it is no unusual sight 
to see a girl, enveloped in a pinafore, 
working at the carpenter's bench. 
Small articles, such as picture frames, 
stools, tabourets, etc., and even articles 
of furniture, beautifully and solidly 
made, are turned out by these same 
girls. In some cases such taste and 
skill have been acquired in this work 
that it has been continued after the 
pupil's graduation, one girl making her- 
self an entire set of bedroom firrniture. 

By the time one has completed a 




Making Simple Garments 



I20 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Aesthetic Dancing, Dr. Sargent's Gymnasium, Cambridge, Mass. 



high-school course he has accom- 
pHshed much in the way of art. He is 
able to draw creditably from the cast, 
and can do color work from the natural 
flower, besides designing wall papers, 
book covers, and other useful objects. 

Pyrography has also become popular, 
the pupil making his own designs for 
burning. Work in wood, copper, and 
brass, the latter being hammered into 
dishes, buckles, and brooches, burnt 
and tooled leather, are some of the 
things included in the studv of the arts 
and crafts. 

Music, too, has its place. Songs 
are taught the pupil at the outset of 
his school career. By the .time the 
pupil leaves the grammar school he 
is able to sing creditably intricate 
part songs, with a knowledge of the 
theory of music. Really diiiicult music 
is undertaken in the high school. In 
some instances entire oratorios are 
given by he pupils. Many schools 



maintain their own orchestra, some of 
them numbering twenty or more pieces. 
The instruments are played by the 
pupils, who lead in the marching. In 
some cases, concerts have been given, 
netting respectable sums for the school. 
Occasionally in the lowest grades the- 
pupils are allowed to bring from home 
their toy trumpets, drums, clappers, 
and other instruments, and form an 
orchestra, led bv one of their number. 
This develops a sense of rhythm, if not 
ot harmony. Fortunately, at that age 
one's lungs are not robust. 

One mav graduate from a high 
schogl fully equipped to enter the 
business world. T^^pe writing and 
stenography are thoroughly taught, 
so that a course in these branches at 
a business college is no longer neces- 
sary. A well-equipped bank is main- 
tained in some schools, where by actual 
experience the pupil learns all that is 
necessary to handle properly and care 



The "What-if" 



2 1 



for such property as he may later 
acquire. 

The teaching of good citizenship is 
taking its place in our schools. 

A proposition of much benefit to the 
schools of a certain city was defeated 
by the ignorant element of the city's 
voters, bringing before the people the 
need of more intelligent citizenship. 
Out of this grew what is known as the 
"vSchool City," an organization of the 



pupils into a city form of government. 
Elections are held, at which the citi- 
zens elect their mayor, judge, and other 
ofiicers, the citizens being responsible 
for good order. 

While the pupil is keeping up the 
ordi^iary branches of study, he is able 
to bring to the acquisition of these 
"hard facts" a mind broadened and 
stimulated by his work along the lines 
mentioned. 




The "What-iP 

By Jessie Juliet Knox 



The big "What-if" is a giant bold, 
At his name man trembles and cowers ; 

Just now he dwells in the land of gold, 
In the wonderful land of flowers. 



When the darkness falls, and you go to bed, 
And the goddess Sleep would woo, 

He comes, and makes you cover your head, 
And you shiver through and through. 



'Tis all very well when the sun is out, 

And the sky above is blue. 
But, when night comes, then the fiend 
shout : 

What-if? — O-oo! O-oo! 



will 



What-if another quake should come, 

And shake you out of your bed. 
And the walls should fall out, and the chimney 
fall in. 

Right on your poor little head ? 



What-if another fire should start. 
And another Terror arrive ? 

What if a famine should happen now ? 
We should none of us survive. 



What-if the tourists should cease to pour in 
To our land of flowers and prunes? 

What-if the year should stay always March, 
With never any Junes? 



WhaT-if the Golden Gate should sink. 
And a tidal wave should come, 

And we should all, be swept away ? 
Why, that would be "going some." 

What-if the earth should open up, 
And swallow you right now, 

Leaving your body half in and half out ? 
'Twould be bad, you must allow. 



And so the Californians say 
They will slay this giant bold. 

They will thrust him bodily out from 
Their beautiful land of gold. 

And we will live without a fear. 
On our shining, sea-girt cliffs 

And in our fields of poppied gold, 
Nor heed his old "What-ifs." 



Some Hallowe'en Tables 

By Estelle Cavender 





The special attraction of this table is the 
chrysanthemum arrangement in triangular 
shape. The illuminations are yellow candles 
stuck in apples and Jack-o'-Lantern's smiling 
face. 

An edge of pumpkin seeds outlines the 
border. 



Jack-o'-Lantem elevated on a bed of 
yellow chrysanthemums, yellow candles 
stuck in apples, and chrysanthemum corners, 
complete a pretty and inexpensive table 
decoration for the Hallowe'en table. 




1 


liJ^^- 


1 


ift 


i%^^, .^ 




»-^*»~— ^■»'^_ ,>~»»^..r"^.^~*^ ' 


s^T^rusi 



Yellow chrysanthemums and Jack-o'- 
Lantern make a pretty Hallowe'en table 
decoration, with yellow candles on a- yellow 
cooky as a standard. 

The place favors are placed in an apple 
candle which is made imitating Jack's face. 



Dame Fortune and Jack-o'-Lantem form 
the central decoration on a centre piece 
of pumpkin seeds. Apple candelabra with 
strung pumpkin seeds as a base form the 
comer pieces, with yellow chrysanthemums 
for the bouquets. 



When Maria Got Even 



By Alix Thorn 



MRS. LOSY, in the act of 
spreading the pink fly netting 
over the dining-table, paused 
when the rattle of wheels sounded in 
front of the house. She hurried to the 
window, peered curiously out through 
the closed blinds, and saw the stage 
passing on its way to the Junction, four 
miles below. Her practised eye dis- 
covered two passengers, an elderly 
woman and an attenuated younger one. 

"I'll bet a cooky,'' she said to herself, 
"that they come from Maria Brill's. 
The stage took 'em past here but three 
days ago. Don't I wish the girls 
wan't both gone and the men all hayin' ! 
I do declare, I ache to talk to some one. 
Oh, Maria Brill, she's enough for any- 
body!" And Mrs. Losy chuckled as 
she drew the caHco-covered rocker to 
the open door, and began to shell peas 
for supper. 

This peaceful occupation was in- 
terrupted an hour later by the arrival 
of a neighbor, who, with reticule on her 
arm and sun-bonnet on her head, an- 
nounced that she had come to spend 
the rest of the afternoon, "that is, pro- 
vidin' you'll keep me to supper, Sarah 
Ann Losy," she said. "My folks is 
all to the furnace to-day, gettin' the 
horses shod, and, fer's I know, they 
won't get back till evenin'." 

"Well, if you ain't welcome this day, 
you wasn't never," cried her hostess, 
eagerly. "My folks is off, too, at the 
far m^dow. They calkilated not to be 
done till late. But, O Permilla Hinsdale, 
the stage passed here about twelve, — 
two wimmin in it, — I surmised they had 
come from Maria Brill's, and" — 

"They did," broke in her guest, un- 
tying the strings of her bonnet, and de- 
positing the bonnet upon the safe. 
"I knew the whole story from Zilpha 
Ham, who's been doin' sewin' at 
Maria's. 'Tain't any breach of confi- 



dence to tell it, for Zilpha, — she's 
sewed to two places since, — and, well, 
you know Zilpha ! Oh , the life of a dress- 
maker must be an interestin' one, 
Sarah Ann. Why, that woman could 
write a hull book. I don't know how 
many families she ain't sewed for, first 
and last." 

"Well, well!" cried Mrs. Losy, im- 
patiently, "I want you should tell me 
about Maria's company." 

Mrs. Hinsdale took out a ball of 
knitted lace from her reticule, put on 
her spectacles deliberately, and set to 
work before she commenced her nar- 
rative. "Of course, you know," she 
began, "that none of the connection 
liked it w^hen Aunt EmmeHne left the 
hull prop'ty to Maria Brill. They said 
that, as Maria wa'n't even a relative, 
only an adopted daughter, she shouldn't 
ought to have the hull, not the hull, 
but Aunt Emmeline — I can't* think 
of her by any other name — had her 
opinion made up on most things." 

"True enough," responded Mrs. 
lyosy. "Emmeline Wanzer was set as 
the next one." 

"The will couldn't be broke, and the 
relations was just hoppin' mad," Mrs. 
Hinsdale continued. "Aunt Emme- 
line' s nephew from Carmel, her half- 
sister's daughter and her children, her 
husband's niece, Mrs. Joe Peterson, 
all the Badgeleys, Munns, Cotterels, — 
in short, the hull lot of relatives, — felt 
most abused, and what they didn't say 
wasn't worth sayin'." 

"I can bet they was boiHn', — I bet 
they was," chuckled Mrs. Losy. 

"Well, from what I can gather from 
Zilpha," murmured her caller, "for the 
last year Maria Brill's been overrun with 
company. Some of those heirs to her 
house all the time, till, at last, she 
smelt a rat and made up her mind that 
they was livin' on her, tryin' to get 



124 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



some good of the prop'ty. So, Zilpha, 
she suspicions Maria decided upon a 
plan. Aunt KmmeUne was most hos- 
pitable, and you know what a splen'd 
table she always set, — hams boiled 
so nicely, fowls cooked rich, hot bis- 
cuit, and grand cheese made on the 
place. After Emmeline's death, Maria, 
she seemed to wish to keep up the table, 
too; and, when Zilpha was sewin' 
mournin' for her, she says she never 
put teeth to better vittles in any house, 
and she don't never ast to. Havin' 
more money to use, Maria got more 
dressy-like, and, of course, Zilpha, 
she's been there pretty steady, off and 
on, and every time she went she found 
some of Aunt Emmeline's relatives 
on hand, makin' themselves entirely 
at home. Then another thing, she 
noticed that the table began to fall 
off terrible. 'Most every day for dinner 
would come on a brisket piece, first 
warm, then a couple of days cold, — not 
even a meat pie made of it, — but few 
preserves and the plainest puddin's. 
Land sakes! She said there'd be rice 
puddin', Injun, sassage dumplin's, then 
rice puddin' agin. Some days 'twould 
be pork stew, and 'tis only real country- 
bred folks as likes pork stew. Zilpha 
said she almost choked, she was so 
full of laugh, to see Helen Winchell, 
when fried pork came on for breakfast 
one mornin' and pork stew was served 
up for dinner. Mrs. Winchell, she 
sat with her mouth screwed way up, 
and finally she says in a loud whisper 
to her oldest boy, 'You don't want 
so much pork: it's dreadful onhealthy.' 
And, good land! if the pair of them 
did not leave next afternoon. 

"The Carmel nephew next come for 
his visit. Great, fat, fleshy-lookin' 
man! You've seen him, Sarah Ann. 
Lawyer Bunce, he is." 

Mrs. Losy munched a pea medita- 
tively, and nodded. 
. "Well, you should hear Zilpha tell 
it. He come, — Lawj^er Bunce did, — 
and how his face fell when a brisket 



piece come on for dinner! She said 
she could tell his mouth had just been 
waterin' for a chicken dinner. His 
little eyes looked reel angry, she re- 
ports, and he looks up at Maria to say, 
'Give up keepin' fowls, Maria?' 'No,' 
answers Maria, cheerful-like. 'No, 
mine is doin' splendid. I've got up- 
wards of two hundred. I'll show 'em 
to you after dinner. Have more meat, 
do.' His stay was short. 

"Two of the Badgeleys come after 
him. They brought a trunk and a 
telescope bag, — a nawful big one. Zil- 
pha see it, and they come drivin' up 
just before five. Maria, she give 'em 
for supper that evenin' bread and 
butter, canned pears, cold pork and 
potatoes, and pepper sauce to eat on 
'em, and reel plain sugar cookies. 
The young ones looked ready to cry. 
You see, they remembered the way they 
was fed up in Emmeline's time, and 
none of the company seemed to relish 
what was set before 'em. Well, the 
table didn't improve none, and two 
days later, as the company was leavin*, 
Zilpha, she heard Mrs. Badgeley say to 
Maria: 'Oh, things has changed here. 
I realize,' she says, 'that Aunt Em- 
meline's gone.' And Maria answers, 
'Have ye just realized?' 

"The last batch of company, — they 
left to-day, — 'twas them you see passin'. 
Zilpha went over to the house on some 
sort of pretext, and got there just as 
the two were drivin' out of the yard 
about eleven. 

"And, now, what do you think? 
Maria, she fairly made Zilpha stay to 
dinner with her, and Zilpha said she 
would say that she never et a finer meal 
in that house, — not even in Emmeline's 
day. 'Twas a chicken dinner with all 
the fixin's. The fresh apple pie was 
Maria's make, but the pickled plums, 
she said, was just Aunt Emmeline all 
over again. I met Zilpha by the 
school-house, as I was on my way here. 
She'd but just left Maria, and as~^we 
parted, she turnin' down the lane, 



" That Ramshackle '* 



125 



I could hear her sayin' to herself, 
'Oh, them pickled plums, them 
plums!'" 

"Well, now, ain't Maria Brill a cute 
one !" exclaimed Mrs. Losy. "Oh, ain't 



to eat reminds me I must be thinkin' 
up our supper, and," her eyes twinkling, 
''I'll see to it that if^s a good, relishin' 
one, for I want that you should come 
again, Permilla. I want that you 



she? And hearin' of such good things should." 



"That Ramshackle" 

In Two Parts 
By Frances Campbell Sparhawk 



Far( I 



I 



T'S nothing short of an insult!" 
cried Jack Baring, angrily. "That 
ramshackle of a house out in the 
very corner of the world, and one hun- 
dred dollars to fix it up with ! " 

"But she was only your third cousin, 
wasn't she ? " pleaded his wife. ' 'Really, 
Jack, she might easily have left you 
nothing at all." 

"Better that than what she has done. 
Ten acres of land and a house nobody 
can live in, to pay taxes on ! She was 
my third cousin, it is true. But she 
might have remembered the time that 
my father was a brother to her in need. 
One hundred dollars to put in order 
a place that you couldn't even let to 
anybody — yes, anybody — under a thou- 
sand for repairs!" 

"Is it really as bad as that?" ques- 
tioned his wife. 

"The best way is to have you see it for 
yourself. I'll take you down there next 
Saturday. And, if you don't fully 
agree with me, it's because you haven't 
eyes or" — 

"Or brains," put in Molly, with a 
laugh. "Better say it out, Jack! 
Make the best bid you can for my 
concurrence." 

The young husband joined in the 
young wife's amusement, looking at 
her with an affectionate pride that even 



his annoyance at her want of faith in 
his judgment could not subdue. "Well, 
then, it's settled we run down there 
Saturday?" he asked. 

"At least, it will be an outing," she 
retorted, as she restored his good humor 
by kissing him good-bye as he went to 
his office. 

The railway station nearest Jack's 
new inheritance was only thirty miles 
from the city where Mr. and Mrs. 
Baring lived, less than an hour by 
express train. But this advantage 
was more than offset by the fact that 
the house was three miles from the 
station, on the outskirts of a little 
town where the only trolley line ran 
in the wrong direction. In spite of 
this objection, however, the two had 
been planning to make this new pos- 
session their home, and Molly had even 
lain awake nights spending and re- 
spending in imagination the one hun- 
dred dollars which was all they could 
afford in furniture. She must find 
out what would go farthest and look 
best. "How fine it is," she had said 
to her husband, "to be economical and 
fashionable at the same time ! I never 
imagined such a thing! But now we 
shall have our summer home, like oiu- 
rich friends. It will be very simple, 
but we don't care for that. It will be 



126 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



antiquated, but that's the latest fad. 
We shall go there in the early spring 
and stay until late autumn, according 
to the dictates of Dame Grundy, — 
we may stay all winter at our own! — 
and we shall save ever so much money 
on it, even with your ticket to town; 
and I shall be 'delighted,' as my famous 
countryman says, to keep house. 
You've no idea of my abilities in that 
line." 

But all this had been before that run 
which Jack had taken to view his new 
property. Now the only way out he 
could find was to put it into an agent's 
hands and sell it at the first fair offer. 
He was not sanguine as to the amount 
it would bring. But Molly should 
take a view also, of course, if she wished. 

"I just can't give up those little 
downy chickens I've cuddled and 
counted over so many times," she said, 
"until with my own eyes I see them 
vanish round the last corner of my 
day-dream home." 

It was early May, with an east wind 
that only May can furnish in all its 
perfection, and that even the distance 
inland that the town lay could only 
partially subdue. The whole place 
looked at its worst as Molly stood 
shivering at the gateway, noting the 
tottering posts, the broken fences, 
the tangled lawn, the neglected or- 
chard, the dead branches on the ancient 
elms, the dilapidated barn, and, worst 
of all, the great old house with blinds 
awry and broken, with occasional 
shingles loose and dingy from lack of 
paint. 

"Well," questioned Jack, as they 
stood there, "are you satisfied? Or 
will you go further?" 

She was tempted to turn away, when, 
looking up, her eyes rested upon the 
soft and lovely tints of the trees sway- 
ing in the bitter wind, bidding their 
swelling buds to wait awhile, but with 
not an idea of deciding to give up the 
spring. "We'll go in," she said, hold- 



ing her head high, and treading the 
weed-grown path with a quick step. 

The chill of an empty house with the 
rain beating against the windows and 
the leaden sky showing every room still 
more- gloomy were accidents that time 
and occupation would remedy. But 
the cracked, and in some rooms the 
broken, ceilings; the wall papers faded 
and torn, stained with more or less 
leakage in every room, showing that 
the roof needed shingling, if not more 
serious repairs; the bad condition of 
the floors; the broken spindles on the 
handsome stairway; the doors, a few 
in fair order, many with knobs or fasten- 
ings gone, and dragging on one hinge; 
the paint everywhere dingy or soiled, — 
all these were different. With firmly 
shut lips Molly walked from room to 
room, glancing about her with eyes 
that nothing escaped. At an upper 
front window she paused, and stood 
long looking out. "What a beautiful 
view, even now!" she said; "and how 
lovely it will be when the dead limbs 
and too heavy foliage are cleared away 
from those trees." 

" 'When,' Molly! Are you crazy?" 

"O Jack! A thousand dollars would 
make this place actually beautiful! 
The situation is fine, the views charm- 
ing. Look at this great hall down- 
stairs, running through the house with 
a door at each end, with old stone steps 
in the shape of a half -moon, the back 
door leading out into the garden. Open 
both doors in the summer, and we can 
look from the gate through the house 
to those hills off on the horizon." 

"Ah, yes, if we had the thousand!" 
said Jack, wishfully. "As it is, we 
couldn't make it habitable on a hun- 
dred, and we can't afford to keep it. 
You know how it is, Molly : my income 
is somewhat uncertain at present. I 
may earn more; but we must build 
upon only what I can be sure of, you 
see." 

"I see perfectly, Jack. But we can't 
afford to lose this house. It has a 



" That Ramshackle " 



127 



certain stateliness, even in its worst 
estate. With people in it who know 
how to make a home, it will be attract- 
ive. I don't see now exactly how we 
can do it, but we simply have got to; 
and, when one says that, things usually 
get done. But, my dear, we have 
two hundred dollars, for I have that 
nest egg of a hundred, you know ! " 

**But that's for yourself. I don't 
want you to take that for my house, 
dear child." 

"Indeed!" cried Molly, backing off 
and looking at him quizzically ! " ' With 
all my worldly goods I thee endow,' 
isn't it? I thought, now, this was my 
house, too," — 

"So it is, sweet; but" — 

"But you want to have all the priv- 
ilege of giving? Well, you can't do 
it this time, Jack. I could not invest 
that hundred better; and I'm going to 
use yours and mine, sir, as far as they 
will go on this house." 

"And then?" 

"And then come down here and live, 
and finish iip as we go. I certainly 
am," she persisted. "You may stay 
in town and swelter all smnmer." 

"Do you want me to send down 
Collins to make an estimate?" he in- 
quired, 

"A swell architect!" she cried in dis- 
may. "Are you out of your senses, 
Jack? We'll drive back to the hotel 
and hunt up the best carpenter we can 
find here, and engage him to make 
an estimate. It's too late for that 
to-day. But I'll rtm down here Mon- 
day morning — or as soon as he can give 
me the time — and go over the place 
with him, and see what he says, and 
report to you." 

"Yes, my dear, see what he says, by 
all means. And you'll come back a 
sadder and a wiser woman." 

Molly was about to speak, but con- 
tented herself with smiling. The 
builder — the very best in town, the 
landlord assured them — was sum- 
moned, and Mrs. Baring engaged to 



meet him at the house the following 
Tuesday morning, go over the place 
with him, and get his estimate for 
repairs. He let fall one or two ap- 
preciative comments on the place which 
gave Molly the idea that he would 
prove the man she wanted. She be- 
lieved he would take an interest in the 
work. 

On the train going home, she said, 
"Now, Jack, to-night we must give 
notice to Mrs. Allen." 

"Notice of what?" 

"That we shall want board and rooms 
there only a week longer. Then we 
shall leave." 

"But we shan't." 

"Don't you see, my dear, we must 
be on the spot when the repairs are 
making. We shall save time and 
money, and things will be better done." 

"What repairs?" 

"Why, the repairs on the house, of 
course." 

"Now, Molly, I'm tired of this non- 
sense. I let you arrange for the esti- 
mate because I knew it would satisfy 
you. The thing can't be done." 

"We will move into the house and 
stay there after the work has got on 
a little way," pursued Mrs. Baring 
imperturbably. "We shall save all 
our board money and live in the house." 

'''Live'/" he cried, his face flushing 
with anger. "You call it living!" 

"'Exist,' then; 'manage'; 'get on'; 
'hang on,' — anything you choose to 
caU it, provided we stick. We'll give 
up our two rooms in town, and bring 
our furniture — all we have — down 
here." 

"And set it round the house while 
the plastering is going on, I suppose. 
Your idea of economy!" 

Mrs. Baring looked at the speaker 
in silence, under her amusement a 
certain disdain which proved her 
strength of position and made him 
insist the more strongly that her 
whole plan was a chimera, as she would 
find out when the estimate came in. 



128 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



"Meantime we will give the week's 
notice," she reiterated calmly. ''I'll 
have the pictures crated, box what 
needs boxing, and be ready to come 
down here and pitch oirr tent some- 
where a week from Monday. Mean- 
while I'll find sorfle place for shelter 
and storage until we can get into a 
corner of your inheritance, to Vege- 
tate' — since you object to calling it 
'live' — until the house is in order!" 

Her decision carried the day. That 
very night notice was given, all the more 
readily that both wanted much to get 
into the country the coming summer. 
"We've burned our ships," said Baring, 
ruefully, as he looked about their 
pretty sitting-room, so soon to be dis- 
mantled. "We can't get rooms so good 
again for this price in this locality." 

"Yes, we've burned our ships," re- 
turned Molly. "It's the only way. 
Now we'll stay there because we 
must. Hobson's choice is often a 
good one." 

Monday Molly was very busy, al- 
though she obeyed her husband's in- 
junctions not to disturb anything in the 
rooms until she had learned the cost 
of repairing the "ramshackle." 

Tuesday was a perfect day; and the 
place of her affections looked to her 
most inviting, in spite of its dilapida- 
tion. In her mind's eye it was already 
beautiful. She walked through the 
rooms with a charming air of pro- 
prietorship, glancing with satisfaction 
at the tall builder at her side, and re- 
membering Jack's comment on his 
hair, "as red as a Norseman's, and 



his face honest and alert." Molly's 
companion evidently knew his business, 
and had taste as well as judgment. 
She would have been glad to make use 
of the latter; but she was emphatic 
in her assertions that only the work 
absolutely necessary was to be done, 
that the material used was to be the 
best of its kind, but that there was 
to be no fanciful or expensive wood- 
work or anything of the sort. 

Yet, between what she told the 
builder must be done and what he 
pointed out to her as absolutely need- 
ful, the length of the list sent her heart 
down into her boots, even before he 
had begun his ciphering. She waited, 
however, outwardly calm, until, after 
going over his figures twice, and assur- 
ing her that he had made these the 
very lowest possible, he said: "Hard 
pine floors downstairs, spruce upstairs, 
the few new windows we've agreed 
upon, new glass where needed in the 
others, ceilings plastered and plaster 
elsewhere mended whereyer required, 
doors hung and put in order, painting 
and papering, shingling the house, 
building a hen-yard, and putting things 
into order generally, — no fancy, I un- 
derstand, Mrs. Baring. Now the very 
lowest I can undertake the job for — 
and then I'm dead sure to lose on it — 
is five hundred dollars. That shuts 
off lots of things that would be handy 
and look fine ; and it leaves the barn out 
of the count. It's dirt cheap, Mrs. 
Baring." 

Yes. But as far above Molly as if it 
had been five thousand. 



October 



Squashes in golden heaps, 

Apples rosy red, 
Supiach flaming by the wall, 

(jfapes overtiea4. 



Nuts falling from the trees, 
Woods turning brown, 

Air getting crisp and cool, 
Leaves floating dowr^. 

Judith Giddin^s. 



Table Manners 



By Kate Gannett Wells 



THE evasive art and indefina- 
ble charm of good table man- 
ners is alluring. To be real 
hungry and yet eat with grace ; to care 
not a whit about any special food, but 
to be hospitably inclined towards all 
kinds; or to have no appetite and 
yet to be fastidious about what is set 
before one, — are table habits that offer 
scope for the practice of good manners. 
We may be tired of the story of the 
spotted sprats, with its appended 
moral of the polite lie, which entailed 
the constant repetition of the dish, or 
we may covet for our household that 
economical division of taste between 
Jack Sprat and his wife, by which 
nothing was ever left over, yet all 
the same most of us neither know how 
to decline a dish as if we were sorry 
to do so nor how to divide our sepa- 
rate fancies between the viands offered, 
that all shall be consumed. 

It is not modes of serving Avith which 
we are now concerned, but how to adapt 
ourselves to any mode and not give 
offence. Alas! it is no longer good 
form to pour one's tea from the cup 
into its saucer, and slowly drink it 
hot with deep breathing "of delight. 
Small saucers, once called cup-plates, 
have ceased to constitute part of any 
breakfast set. A hot cup of tea, 
poured right from a brown earthen 
teapot, set on the kitchen range and 
then into a saucer, is still associated 
to me with the making up of the week's 
accounts late on Saturday nights before 
the Stmday sermons were begun by 
my father. Nowhere but in the 
kitchen, at a Httle table drawn close 
to the fire, would he drink that tea. 
For those were still the days of family 
simplicity. They are gone, with the 
Fast Day Indian whey pudding (which 
took as long to bake as were the Sun- 
day morning services) and with honest 



delight in just eating. Now we nibble 
unless we Fletcherize. It is as well 
to acknowledge at once that it is not 
graceful to be a hearty eater, and also 
that it is inconveniently expensive. 
A guest who does not take to cereals 
and liver, but must have fruit, eggs, 
and sirloin roasts, makes a big differ- 
ence in family reckonings. 

But how^ to eat, how to sit, how to 
handle knife, fork, and spoon, how to 
use the finger-bowl, how to take one's 
soup without noise, how not to drink 
and eat at the same second, how to 
adjust the napkin,- — all these trivialities, 
neither neglected nor punctiliously ob- 
served, enter into good manners, with 
due regard to the truth, not generally 
conceded, that there are several right 
ways of doing the same thing. It is 
cruel to throw a napkin carelessly on 
the table at the end of a meal, if there 
is only one maid of all Avork in the fam- 
ily or if it is the hostess herself who 
irons the napkins. It would be rude 
to fold it up, if the butler is round. 
But, if the careful host has it pinned 
round his neck, such prerogative should 
be the privilege of age alone, not of 
company. The same latitude exists 
with the finger-bowl. Don't use it as 
vigorously as would a canary bird 
taking his bath. Don't ignore it as if 
it were a futile refinement of cleanliness. 
The taking of soup, that is the hard 
thing to do— just right. Practise by 
one's self till the noiseless art is 
gained. 

Good manners begin at breakfast 
with the eating of oranges, grow better 
at lunch with the informality of the 
repast, and are best at dinner, with 
its code of etiquette, family or cere- 
monial. Shall one wait till all are 
served before beginning to eat? If 
so, what shall one do when he has 
finished, and others are on the way to 



I30 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the close? If there are children to 
hurry off to school, there is no leisure 
for extra good manners, for the pre- 
emptions of youth and business are 
always butting up against formal cour- 
tesies. Punctuality is the only in- 
variable polite necessity. If each 
grown-up person would have break- 
fast by herself, how much more agree- 
able she would be the rest of the day! 
It is a severe strain on limited strength 
or ability to be amiable at breakfast, 
though it is the way to find out what 
kind of wives and husbands men and 
women will make. But, oh ! the luxury 
of breakfasting by one's self, in negli- 
gee, with coffee, toast, and newspaper 
or book; to lounge or sit square at the 
table or to jump up and look out of the 
window; to sip a little, to read a few 
lines, to take large or small mouthfuls, 
and then sip a little more ; to be slovenly, 
lazy, unguarded; to have neither maid 
nor man around; to be just by one's 
own cross, sleepy, tired, fussy, or 
energetic self for twenty minutes in a 
busy day, and then to push back 
chair and plate, refreshed and ready 
for work, — oh, it is great! Give me 
just one such half-hour, and I'll delve 
all the rest of the day. Just because 
such a breakfast is not a good instance 
of table manners, is it such a boon to 
one jaded with the decorousness of 
neatness. Yet all such "relaxing" 
braces one up for the "togetherness" 
of lunch and the formalism of dinner. 

After all is said, the good table 
manners of convention and of char- 
acter are not so far apart as they at 
first seem. To the woman who does 
her own work — that is, for the family 
and herself — many of the trappings of 
good table manners would be positive 
injuries. Not for her relays of plates, 
finger-bowls, doilies, etc., nor table- 
cloths, if white enamel cloth can be 
had. Yet the tired mother of a large 
family does not think her whole duty 
is done unless she has a damask cloth, 
coarse though it may be, to wash and 



iron. Nor does a man realize how long 
it takes to wash dishes. But all the 
same the art of eating slowly, neatly, 
and noiselessly can be acquired in a 
small tenement as well as in a luxurious 
house, wherever one thinks it worth 
while to be well bred, if just with one's 
mere family or one's lonesome self. 

Clubs, restaurants, lunch counters, 
often afford good examples of how not 
to do. Still, it is safe to say that there 
is as much of the essentials of good man- 
ners down town as there is up town, in 
eating. Haste in eating sometimes 
contrasts well with leisure in taking 
one's time at table, — an exasperating 
habit to a housekeeper. If encourag- 
ing, it is also pathetic to see how 
prevalent have become the modern 
equipments of a table, differing only 
in values of cost and taste, from the 
solid silver salt and pepper set to the 
pressed blue glass shakers. It was 
a restaurant keeper who out of the 
bitterness of his heart complained that 
the genial humorist, William D. How- 
ells, need not have written that a fly 
was in the sandwich bought at a cer- 
tain Maine depot, as flies were every- 
where and his tables were set in pretty 
homelike fashion. 

Along with the art of graceful neat- J 
ness at table goes knack in conversa- i 
tion, as the second essential in good 
manners. Treasure up harmless bits 
of gossip and good anecdotes for 
dinner. Don't be beguiled into argu- 
ments until cigars are lit. Don't find 
fault at meal-times with children, hus- 
band, friends, or even with the world 
in general, but also don't be aggravat- 
ingly meek, non-committal, and gen- 
eralizing in talk. Be funny, for even 
patient affection grows fatigued in try- 
ing to appear pleased with what is 
said when one isn't, the effort making 
the poor meat seem stringier than ever. 
There are, however, many persons who 
apparently think that all they have to 
do to entertain others is to be brilliant 
themselves instead of seeing that what 



Two Ways with the Simple Life 



131 



is wanted is the skill to make others 
realize that they are appearing delight- 
ful and amusing. 

That good table manners are more 
and more in vogue is in keeping with 
the habit of imitation and with pros- 



perous conditions. The real fear is 
that it will be thought that such 
manners are accessible only to wealth, 
instead of remembering that refine- 
ment in eating can go along with making 
things easy for the women folk. 



The Sky's a Garden 

By Grace Stone Field 



The sky's a garden, orderly and fair ; 
The stars are jasmine clusters, crowding there. 
Its clouds are beds of violets, pure and white. 
Misty with dew, dream-perfumed with de- 

Hght. 
And in its borders, when the night has gone. 
Flower the glowing roses of the dawn. 



O garden of the sky, so still and far! 
Beyond the storms of earth your blossoms are. 
Perhaps the angels walk adown your ways, 
Through all the sweetness of untroubled days, 
And, smiling, watch to see, when night has 

gone. 
The slow unfolding, radiant rose of dawn ! 



Two Ways with the Simple Life 



N 



By Helen Campbell 



O," said the city man, 
planted luxuriously in a bed 
of pine needles under a pine 
whose wide-spread branches could eas- 
ily shelter ♦a hundred. "No. This is 
good! The choicest bit, perhaps, of 
an unsurpassed vacation. But pray 
let us have a few minutes' silence as to 
the simple life. 'Back to the land!' is 
a pleasing cry; but how about the 
thousands of us who must live where 
our work is, and make that living tol- 
erable? Even the fury of fervor in 
your head-man here doesn't convince 
me that cathedrals are to be abolished 
because columnar tree-trunks are as 
good or better, or that a tent is the only 
ideal habitation for that part of the 
world really in earnest. There's more 
than one way with the simple life. 
Meditate on Marcus Aurelius : ' Even in 
a palace life can be lived well,' other- 
wise simply. Meditate on my wife. 



She's got it all down to a fine point. 
Tell them, Connie." 

The charming young woman, whose 
cheeks flushed crimson as the group 
repeated in unison, "Yes, tell us," 
shook her head. 

"I have told it so often, John, that 
you know it by heart. This time it is 
your turn, and I'll prompt if you miss 
anything." 

' ' But why do you have to live in the 
city?" interrupted the objector. There 
is always an objector in every vacation 
party. 

"Because," returned the first speaker, 
"I am not going to live the bloodless 
life. I like to stay with the crowd. 
Why should I go off into a pleasant 
corner and pat my own back because 
I have found it, and sit hugging the 
illusion to my heart and conscience 
that that is enough? Service for all, 
justice for all, — ^that is enough. Nothing 



3i 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



less will suffice. And so, though we 
take to the woods for our summer 
vacation, two college professors as we 
are, needing it as rest from one year's 
work and foundation for another, we 
are both of one mind as to how to 
handle the other nine months. Tell 
them, Connie. I always get a new point 
of view when you do. If I were going 
to lecture on it formally, I should call 
it, perhaps, 'The Abolition of White.' 
Most of these tent-folk here seem to be 
in white. How do they do it ? " 

"You wander shamefully," said the 
wife. "Go on." And now the young 
professor sat up and looked about 
him. 

"In the first place," said he, "we 
talked it over for two years, the time 
of our engagement, and my wife experi- 
mented steadily. It wasn't a question 
of abolishing everything desirable and 
calling it the simple life. It was the 
holding on to what people of true taste 
and cultivation found essential. She 
had been a teacher of manual training 
in another city, and resigned her place 
to come to me. She was certain it 
would be possible to keep house, yet 
not be swamped by the work it entails. 
She wanted a post-graduate course in 
her chosen work, and we both wanted 
beautiful things, suited not only to the 
tastes, but the actual needs of both. 
She was to study the higher art phases 
of manual training ; and, as she was re- 
quired to produce some forms herself, 
she made things that would be what 
we needed in our own home, a quiet 
flat up in Morningside. Everything 
was made of solid oak, from t3^pewriter 
desk for me to dining- table, the spaces 
for them in each room carefully meas- 
ured. She began with a hand-made 
oak chair, the wood for it two dollars 
only, but we could not have bought it 
for fifteen. On her own writing-desk 
she put in a morning study period of 
six weeks, about fifty hours of labor, 
but every drawer and pigeon-hole ex- 
actly as she desired. Then she made 



a sumptuous -looking box, a wedding 
chest like those of the old time, which 
makes a fine window-seat and holds 
all manner of things. And the dining- 
table was finished with boiled oil in- 
stead of varnish and shellac, coat 
after coat rubbed in patiently, till now 
nothing hurts it, and every guest ad- 
mires its beauty. A list was made 
beforehand of just absolute needs, 
and the house has not one thing that 
does not come under that head. There 
is no silver to keep clean save knives, 
forks, and spoons. There is no big 
sideboard, but a smaU oak sendng 
table made by herself, with spaces 
cunningly planned for holding just 
the things most used on the table. 
For a good while she kept a list of the 
time required to do each individual 
thing, and, if even five minutes could 
be saved by elimination or some new 
way of doing it more easily, studied 
it out till the thing was accomplished. 
She had given up her salary as teacher, 
and wished to spend as little as pos- 
sible till earning began again. Her 
post-graduate course is over, and she 
has been a year professor, has made 
much of the furniture of the house with 
her own hands, kept house without a 
maid, and made all her own clothes. 

"We eat no meat. That makes a big 
difference in cooking and in gas bills. 
The vegetables that need long time for 
cooking are all eliminated. Potatoes 
are troublesome to prepare, and we 
substitute rice mostly. If Europeans 
get on comfortably on a uniform break- 
fast, why shouldn't we? Variety can 
come in the other meals. We use let- 
tuce profusely, for it is to be had good 
the year round in New York, and have 
an endless variety of salads, always at 
dinner, cutting into the lettuce fruit 
or vegetable, whatever is in season, 
and using much of the best olive oil. 
Bananas and tomatoes are our stand-by, 
and apples baked, stewed, or raw. 
Eggs, too,- we use in every form except 
fried. The best bread to be bought, and 



A Witch Party 



^33 



often quick muffins of wheat and oat- 
meal. If you looked into our kitchen 
you would see just three cooking 
utensils hanging over the gas stove, 
a double-boiler, and two saucepans. 
They are enough. Our only hot drink 
is cocoa. We have little puddings, if 
we want a sweet, or ice-cream, but no 
pies or cakes. No meat means saving 
lots of expense, and knocks out grease 
and smells and much dish-washing. 
The dishes are never wiped. After 
washing they are rinsed in boiling 
water, and left to drain till they are 
wanted. Nothing white is used where 
it can be avoided, — I mean napkins, 
table-cloths, white curtains, and all 
the white fluffy things women mostly 
wear. A house with white bureau 
scarfs, bedspreads, and all the rest 
can't be kept presentable without con- 
stant work from somebody. So my 
wife uses soft silk blouses, and doesn't 
own a ruffled white petticoat. She 
makes all her gowns in one piece, 
and I like 'em. So do other people. 
In short, we have every sort of com- 
fort a house stands for, with none of 
the usual fret and bother, and see no 
reason why many a family might not 
do the same. Perhaps they will some 



day when it dawns upon them what 
the simple life really stands for. She'll 
tell the rest, if there is any rest, — 
washing put out and all that. But we 
live at ease and work happily, and 
our friends seem to like to come to 
us. What more w^ould you have ? " 

"We can't all make our own furni- 
ture," said the objector; "and where 's 
your outdoors?" 

"We walk, my friend, going and re- 
turning from college, and daih^, in 
good weather, use our bicycles in a 
spin up Riverside Drive or in the park. 
Also, we know^ the Jersey side, and all 
the big trees are our own up to Yonkers 
and beyond. That appears to be a 
fair portion of outdoors. As to furni- 
ture, there are good simple shapes to 
be had. The chief word, as you have 
seen, is 'elimination.' A whirlwind 
of useless and mostly unbeautiful bric- 
a-brac is in every home. Abolish it 
all, and Freedom begins." 

"But," began the objector. 

" 'But me no buts,' " said the pro- 
fessor, rising hastily. "Work it out, 
man, as we all must, each according 
to his light ; and with illumination you'll 
find elimination the way out into 
peace." 



A Witch Party 

For Hallowe'en 

By Helen Bertha Crane 



USE no lights but candles and 
Jack-o'-lanterns, and, as the 
guests are welcomed in sub- 
dued whispers, usher them into a room 
at one end of which hangs a large 
curtain or sheet with the w^ords "The 
Witches' Spell." The letters should 
be at least ten inches high, cut from 
red paper or muslin, and basted on the 
sh^et. At the proper rnoment the 



curtain, being withdrawn, discloses a 
large piece of brown paper bearing the 
following bewitched tale, which must 
be written large and clear with a paint 
brush, that all may see distinctly. 

When Sue was needing the dough, 
she let the bowl drop on her tough. 
It hurt her sough she never noticed 
that some of the dough fell on the 
fresh blew bough she had tide at her 



134 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



waste. Tom had been too mough the 
meadough, hough the corn, and fight 
the farmers' fough, the crough; but, 
when he returned, Sue was in such pane 
he had to gough at once, and rough 
down to Drugs & Cough, to get some- 
thing for her tough. She was soon 
reheved, though how the accident hap- 
pened she never did nough. 

The guests, having been provided 
with paper and pencils, are allowed 
ten or fifteen minutes to puzzle this 
out, which, when corrected, should read 
thus : — 

When Sue was kneading the dough, 
she let the bowl drop on her toe. It 
hurt her so she never noticed that 
some of the dough fell on the fresh 
blue bow she had tied at her waist. 
Tom had been to mow the meadow, 
hoe the corn, and fight the farmers' 
foe, the crow; but, when he returned, 
Sue was in such pain he had to go at 
once, and row down to Drugs & Co. 
to get something for her toe. She was 
soon relieved, though how the accident 
happened she never did know. 

The prize for this should be the 
witch's ever present companion, a 
black cat, either one made of muslin 
stuffed with rags or a much smaller 
one filled with bonbons. 

Now will be the time to introduce 
some of the well-known but always 
interesting Hallowe'en sports: bobbing 
for apples; feeling blindfolded for the 
three saucers, one being empty, the 
other two containing clear water and 
turbid water, meaning that one will 
remain single, marry, or marry a widow 
or widower according to which saucer 
is first touched; and, if an open fire 
is available, roasting chestnuts and 
melting lead to drop into cold water. 

A witch golf game is next started. 
Set at one end of the room a large paste- 
board box, the open side facing the 
company. At the other end of the 
room, as far from the box as possible, 
place in a row four apples, red, yel- 
low, green, and russet. Select four 



players. Provide them with children's 
brooms with which at a given signal 
each is to try to sweep his particular 
apple into the box. The first one to 
do so is the winner. After all the 
guests have tried their skill, let the 
winners of each group compete together. 
A suitable prize is an apple pincushion. 
A supper menu should be: — 

Witch Cap Croquettes. 

Broomstick Salad. 

Crescent-and-Full Moon Sandwiches. 

Bent Pin Pudding, 

Whipping-post Sauce. 

The croquettes are to be of chicken, 
shaped like a witch's cap or an in- 
verted cornucopia. A mould for this 
may easily be made by taking a piece 
of stiff brown paper and rolhng it into 
shape — three inches high and one 
inch across the opening — and sewing, 
to hold it firmly. If well greased on 
the inside, the croquette mixtm'e will 
easily slip out. Serve each croquette 
on a circular bit of cardboard one and 
one-half inches in diameter, which 
extending out will represent the rim 
of the hat. The salad is made from 
string beans, fresh or canned, but 
yellow ones are preferable. A little 
bundle of these are tied together with 
a bit of heavy thread near the middle 
and at one end like a broom, a lead- 
pencil being first inserted in the upper 
end to serve for the broom-handle. 
The mayonnaise may be passed sep- 
arately, as the effect of the brooms 
with the yellow dressing on them would 
not be so good. The full-moon sand- 
wiches are made of lettuce and may- 
onnaise, and are cut circular. The 
crescent sandwiches may be made with 
the same cutter and spread with cream 
cheese mixed with chopped dates. 
The pudding is a lemon jelly in which 
are bits of candied lemon, orange and 
citron peel cut in pieces an inch long, 
and as fine as possible. This is served 
with whipped cream and wafers. Have 
hanging from the chandeHer a large 



Perfume Therapeutics 



135 



witch cap of red paper, made Hke the 
mould for the croquettes, only having 
the rim attached. Fill this with Ger- 
man mottoes, being careful to select 
those that are caps of some variety. 
Pass these around in the witch cap 
after supper. While eating, give out 
a number of witch (which) conun- 
drums, such as: "Which side of a 
pitcher is the handle on? The out- 
side." "Which will hold the more, 
twenty four-quart jars or twenty-four 
quart jars? — The former holds fifty- 
six quarts more." "Which one of the 



United States is called the Lobby 
State? Ohio." 

As the witching hour of midnight 
draws near, it is time for fortune-tell- 
ing. If the hostess has a friend well 
versed in this art either with cards, 
tea leaves, or by palmistry, well and 
good ; but, if not, she must herself act 
the part of the seer in advance by 
writing out a number of fortunes and 
tying them with bits of ribbon to 
gilded wish-bones. These may be given 
out and the bones pulled just before 
the good-nights are said. 



Perfume Therapeutics 

By Edwena Lawrence 



THE love of the ancients for 
flowers was due chiefly to their 
fragrance, as sweet odors were 
mostly appreciated in ancient and med- 
iaeval times. 

Egyptian women were lavish in their 
use of delicious perfumes and rare es- 
sences, bathing their hair and bodies 
in them, wearing scented bead neck- 
laces and also garlands of richly odor- 
ous flowers. Their guests were given 
chambers flower-strewn and fragrant 
with perfumes. 

Flowers, rare perfumes, and the in- 
cense of odoriferous gums formed part 
of the offerings to the gods, and were 
conspicuous in all entertainments. 
The incense-bearer was necessary at all 
religious ceremonies, and even the mum- 
mies were drenched with sweet odors 
and scented with spicy gums. 

All the civilized nations of antiquity 
exhibited this love of perfumes. The 
Greeks were famous for the ingenuity 
of the novel ways in which they intro- 
duced them into their entertainments. 
The Romans, also, became renowned 
perfumers. Arabia and India sup- 
plied great demands for essences and 
spices; and, indeed, the expenditures 



for this one luxury were most extrava- 
gant. 

Later receptacles and articles of dress 
were manufactured for the purpose of 
holding perfumes, such as the perfumed 
glove or shoe, the ring of surpassing 
workmanship, the pomanders, the jew- 
elled scent-box, and various sachets. 

The perfumes enjoyed were those 
most agreeable to the sense without 
any knowledge or consideration of their 
therapeutic effect. In these modern 
times, when science seizes our vagaries 
and makes them assume a more staple 
form, we realize that perfumes possess 
marked physiologic action. 

We know that herbous plants — the 
fragrant lavender, rosemary, and mign- 
onette — furnish reviving odors and 
that their effect is soothing to the 
nerves, as are the odors of acacia, jas- 
mine, and lilacs to a healthy sense. 
The latter odors, in closer proximity 
or in larger quantities, have decidedly 
narcotic powers. The nervous will 
find the delicate fragrance of the cit- 
ron most tranquillizing. 

Musk acts as a tonic, while the odor 
of the orange flower has so depressing 
(Contintced on page xxii.) 



^z^ 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A TEAR. 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued and arrearages are 
paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires: it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
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ceived. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number, 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 

THE PURE FOOD LAW 

WE are glad to note that the 
Hepburn Pure Food Bill 
has passed both houses of 
Congress and become the law of the 
land. Why this action was so long 
delayed is not easily accounted for. 
At last, however, our Congress seemed 
to realize that the people wanted some 
means of protection against the adul- 
teration of food products and negligence 
in handling the same, and would hold 
somebody responsible for long-con- 
tinued inaction in a matter of such 
vital importance. Hence the statute. 
Manufacturers are apt to grow care- 
less and indifferent where health and 
sanitation involve labor and expense. 
This law provides the only reasonable 



assurance and means of redress against 
fraud and deceit in the manipulation 
of food products. Already the packing 
houses and canneries are complying 
with the requirements of the law, and 
the entire process of packing and 
canning of foods is imdergoing thorough 
renovation. The changes in surroimd- 
ings and the gain in cleanliness are 
marked indeed. In the long run this 
new regime in the greatest of all in- 
dustries is destined to prove the wis- 
dom of the old maxim, ' ' Honesty is the 
best policy." On this point the editor 
of the Congregationalist and Christian 
World comments as follows: — 

"A good text for a sermon on the 
results of the investigations of the 
last few months into the business 
methods of some of the great enter- 
prises on whose serA'ice the people 
depend is Heb. xii. 11: 'All chasten- 
ing seemeth for the present to be not 
joyous, but grievous; yet afterward 
it yieldeth peaceable fruit unto them 
that have been exercised thereby, even 
the fruit of righteousness.' A great 
deal of regret was expressed that the 
exposure of the ways of the great pack- 
ing companies would diminish our 
trade with foreign countries, and that 
the long discussion in Congress and the 
newspapers on railroad rebates and 
other practices now regarded as repre- 
hensible would lessen the value of 
railroad stocks and undermine confi- 
dence in business. Yet the peaceable 
fruit of righteousness is already ap- 
pearing, and is beyond what was ex- 
pected even by the most sanguine. 
Food products all over the world are 
more wholesome than they were, and in 
many countries closer inspection has 
detected dangerous adulteration of 
meats and drinks, canned vegetables 
and drugs, and has stopped it. Prose- 
cutions are being pressed against repu- 
table German firms who have been 
found to employ chemists to use 
deleterious material for the manu- 
facture of food products, wines, medi- 



Editorials 



137 



Gines, and perfumes, and it is said 
that few articles of this sort have es- 
caped adulteration by German manu- 
facturers. Human life is safer than it 
has been for many years because of 
these investigations, and the trade in 
reliable food and drink products will 
increase as public confidence finds a 
just basis to rest on. Since the war 
against rebates began, the net earnings 
of railroads in this country has steadily 
and largely increased, and it is agreed 
that this increase is in part due to the 
discontinuance of granting special priv- 
ileges in using railroads, which have 
been paid for by those not favored and 
in which the railroads themselves are 
the greatest losers. It is not the worthi- 
est argument that righteousness brings 
prosperity, but it is cheering to have 
evidence that those who seek first the 
kingdom of God and his righteousness 
have other things added." 

TRUTH AND RIGHTEOUSNESS 

THE majority of mankind, we 
are convinced, above all things 
else, are anxious to see truth 
and righteousness prevail. A wrong, 
an act of injustice, is never condoned. 
Witness the case of Dreyfus in France. 
Gross injustice to an army officer, in- 
ferior in rank and uninteresting in 
character, has kept the entire state of 
France in a condition of feverish ex- 
citement and unrest for years, until 
at last the calumny has been refuted 
and justice meted out to the innocent. 
People everywhere hate injustice. The 
mission of the race is to overcome 
superstition and error, and live in ac- 
cordance with the law^s of truth and 
righteousness. 

But the question often arises. What 
is truth? We can only answer: Truth 
is not necessarily a belief. A belief may 
be true or not true. The experience 
of the race teaches this. The world 
is tired of beliefs: it wants truths, — 
larger truths. We care little for what 



men believe. We estimate them by 
their deeds. "The world will little 
note nor long remember what we say 
here. It will not forget what they did 
here." Truth is the opposite of error 
and wrong : truth is right. The volume 
of truths is ever growing. It is much 
larger to-day than in ages past, and 
because of it life is more worth the 
living. Honesty, fair dealings, man 
with man, is the goal forever sought 
for. We choose as our leaders those 
who are broad-minded, unselfish, and 
just, — lovers of truth and right. Do 
unto others as you would that others 
should do unto you is a rule of conduct, 
for man and nation, that is not likely 
to fail. In the search for truth, in 
distinguishing right and wrong, the 
enlightened conscience should be our 
guide. 

THE COUNTRY HOME 

THE season of sojourn in the 
country is nearly ended. 
Probably more people have 
gone to the seashore and hillsides this 
year than ever before. The trans- 
portation companies and places of 
resort report the largest patronage on 
record. 

All over New England, as well as 
in other parts of the land, the summer 
cottage is a most picturesque and 
interesting feature in the landscape. 
These cottages cannot be dissociated 
from the old-fashioned farm-house or 
country home where visitors are wont 
to be entertained. Of the latter some, 
in point of sanitary conditions and 
healthfulness, are all that could be 
desired. Others are far from being 
satisfactory, and often they are the 
occasion of deep solicitude on the part 
of the summer guests. 

Nature does much to render life in 
the country delightful. Mountains and 
woodlands, brooks and lakes, together 
with pure air and bright skies, are 
sources of endless charm. Why should 
man alone defile the face of nature? 



138 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



It should not be necessary to say that 
scrupulous cleanliness should pervade 
every nook and corner of the human 
habitation, including barn, stable, and 
hennery. Any negligence here is a 
direct menace to health and comfort, 
the prime objects most people, in their 
summer outings, are seeking. 

In addition to cleanliness, two things 
are of paramount importance to the 
prosperity and welfare of the country 
home; namely, good roads and an un- 
contaminated supply of pure water. 
And what with mountain streams, fresh 
springs, and clear lakes it would seem 
that New England homes might be 
supplied with an abundance of pure 
water; and yet the places thus pro- 
vided are far too infrequent. The old- 
fashioned well is still too much in evi- 
dence. Why does not the farmer come 
to realize that these things are no in- 
considerable part of his assets, and, at 
the same time, are the main essentials 
of his welfare? It behooves every 
farmer to look well, first to the sani- 
tary conditions of his home, then to 
the making of improved roads upon 
which the prosperity of the community 
in which he lives so much depends. 

A leading household journal in a 
series of graphic object-lessons has 
been calling people's attention ex- 
tensively to the unsightly dumping- 
places and other ugly objects that dis- 
figure so many cities and towns of our 
land. Why so much of this sort of 
ugliness is tolerated is past understand- 
ing. However, the lesson for us to 
learn is that the artistic touch is, in 
the final estimate, the one thing need- 
ful to render the country home attrac- 
tive and complete. It is wonderful 
what the repair of fences, the removal 
of rubbish, the judicious use of paint, 
the setting of a few vines and trees, 
will sometimes accomplish. Neatness 
is sure sign of thrift. What every house- 
holder should aspire to is to make the 
most of his own environments and give 
nature a fair chance. The country 



home should be an appropriate and 
comely piece of handiwork, set amid 
the natural framework of nature's 
designing. 



F^OR the items that appear in our 
department of "Home Ideas and 
Economies " we pay a regular 
rate of so much a column. Unfortu- 
nately^ we have mislaid or lost the 
names and addresses of several con- 
tributors to these columns. Any con- 
tributor who has failed to receive proper 
remittance from us will favor us by 
sending name and address in full, at 
the same time designating the items 
contributed by her. We shall be 
pleased to make a remittance for the 
items, and will try in future to be 
more careful with our correspondence. 



A lady asked one of the children in 
her Sunday-school class, "What was 
the sin of the Pharisees?" "Eating 
camels, ma'am," was the reply. The 
little girl had read that the Pharisees 
"strained at gnats and swallowed 
camels." 



An inch of progress is worth more 
than a yard of fault-finding. — Booker 
Washington. 



"Idleness is death, and a search for 
pleasure is sure to wreck life in shal- 
lows and in miseries. Safety and 
sanity lie in systematic useful effort." 



"If you wish to be miserable, you 
must think about yourself, about what 
you want, what you like, what respect 
people ought to pay to you, and what 
people think of you." 



"From the dawn of civilization the 
rule has been that the educated man 
should do no work, and that the man 
who worked should not be educated. 
The idea that all men should work and 
all should be educated is very modern 
thought." 




Chicken en Casserole. See page 152 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. 
A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Green Pepper Omelet 

Cut a sweet green pepper in halves, 
lengthwise, and remove the seeds. 
Then cut the rest of the pepper in 
tiny shreds. Put a tablespoonful of 
butter in the omelet pan, and, when hot, 
add the pepper and cook about five 
minutes without browning, stirring 
meanwhile, that all may be uniformly 
softened. Have ready in a bowl four 
eggs, a scant half-teaspoonful of salt, 
and a dash of pepper beaten until a 
full spoonful can be taken up. Turn 
the ^gg over the pepper, shake the 
pan, or pick up the cooked ^gg with a 
fork, to let the uncooked mixture 
down onto the pan; when the ^gg 
is lightly set, roll, and turn onto a 
hot dish. 

Celery Souffle 
Wash and drain the tender white 
stalks in a head of celery, discarding the 
leaves, and cut the stalks into fine 
slices. Add a slice of mild onion, 
two sprigs of parsley, and white broth 



or boiling water to cover. Let cook 
about half an hour or until the celery 
is tender and the liquid evaporated. 
Remove the parsley and about half the 
celery, and press the onion and rest 
of the celery through a sieve. There 
should be of broth and puree about 
one-third a cup. Melt two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter. In it cook three table- 
spoonfuls of flour, half a teaspoonful 
of salt, and one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of paprika. Add the puree of celery 
and three-fourths a cup of rich milk, 
and stir until the sauce is boiling. 
Then beat in the beaten yolks of two 
eggs, one-fourth a cup of grated 
Parmesan cheese, and then cut and 
fold in the pieces of cooked celery, 
reserved for the purpose, and the whites 
of two eggs, beaten dry. Bake in a 
buttered souffle dish or in individual 
dishes. 

Creamed Celery au Gratin 
Cut the cleaned celery stalks into 
pieces half or three-fourths an inch 



140 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



long, and simmer until tender. (The into an agate baking-pan. Pour over 
outer stalks require longer cooking than eight pieces about half a cup of mo- 
those in the centre.) Make a cup lasses, and sprinkle lightly with salt, 




Creamed Celery au Gratin. See page 139 



of white sauce for each cup and a fourth 
of cooked celery. Use broth, milk or 
water in which the celery was cooked, 
with a little cream, in making the sauce. 
Butter a shallow baking-dish, put in 
a little sauce, a grating of Parmesan 
cheese, and then a layer of cooked 
celery. Add more sauce and cheese, 
then celery, sauce and cheese, cover 
with three-fourths a cup of cracker 
crumbs mixed with one-third a cup 
of melted butter, and set the dish into 
the oven until the crumbs are brov/ned. 



and put a teaspoonful of butter on 
each piece of squash. Bake until 
tender, — about half an hour, — basting 
four or more times with the liquid in 
the pan. Serve very hot. 

Fish Salad, Sardine Dressing 
vSeparate cooked fish into flakes 
while hot. When cold, sprinkle a 
pint of fish with a scant half-teaspoon- 
ful of salt, a dash of pepper, and five 
or six tablespoonfuls of oil. Mix with 
a fork and spoon, then mix again after 




Nut Loaf", Parsley with Slices of Orange. See page 159 



Squash Baked with Molasses 
Cut squash, removing the skin, or 
shell, or not as is most convenient, 
into pieces for serving and put these 



adding two or three tablespoonfuls 
of vinegar. Add also, if at hand, two 
tablespoonfuls of crushed capers, fine- 
chopped olives, or fine-chopped cucum- 



Seasonable Recipes 



141 



ber pickles. Cover the fish, and set it 
aside in a cool place, to become sea- 
soned and chilled. Drain three or four 
sardines or wipe them on 
a cloth. Remove the skin 
and bones, and pound the 
flesh with the cooked yolks 
of three eggs to a smooth 
paste. Add salt and a 
dash of pepper, then beat 
in alternately, and little 
by little, three tablespoon- 
fuls of vinegar and five 
tablespoonfuls of oil. Mix 
the fish (carefully drained) 
with the dressing, and turn 
the whole onto a bed of lettuce leaves 
carefully washed and dried. Lay sar- 
dine fillets (halves of sardines freed 
from skin and bone) on the top of the 
salad, and serve at once. 

Roast Snipe 
Remove the feathers carefully, to 
avoid tearing the skin. Draw, but do 
not remove the head or feet. Singe over 
a tablespoonful of alcohol ig- 
nited on a saucer. Bring the 
feet back upon the second 
joints, pressing the legs close 
to the body. Truss the birds 
by turning the head under the 
wing and passing the long bill 
through the second joints and 
body. Tie a string around 
the legs and another around 
the breast, as in the illustra- 
tion, to hold the head and 
legs in position, though it is 
better to avoid the string 
around the breast, as it is 
liable to leave a mark when 
the bird is cooked. Bind a 
strip of bacon over the breasts 
or rub over the surface with 
butter. Cook in a hot oven 
about twenty minutes, bast- 
ing with melted butter four 
times. Dredge with salt and 
flour after the second basting. Serve 
on slices of toast moistened with the 



liquid in the pan in which the birds 
are cooked. Garnish the dish with 
water-cress and slices of lemon. 




Fish Salad, Sardine Dressing 

Chicken Pilau, Turkish Style 

Put three-fourths a cup of rice over 
the fire in three pints of cold water. 
Stir constantly, while quickly heating 
the water to the boiling-point, and let 
boil one minute. Then drain, rinse 
in cold water, drain and dry on a 
cloth. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter 
(or use nice chicken fat) in a saucepan. 




Snipe Trussed with Its Long Bill 

Add the rice, and stir three or four 
minutes. Then add three cups of 



142 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



veal or chicken broth, or, lacking these, 
hot water. Add also three peeled 
tomatoes, cut in pieces, or three-fourths 




Chicken Pilau, Turkish Style. See page 141 



folds of paper. Pour boiling water 
around it, and let cook ten minutes. 
Unmould on a ser\4ng-dish, pour tomato 
sauce around, and 
ser\'e at once. For the 
sauce use one -fourth a 
cup, each, of butter and 
flour, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and one 
pint of tomato puree. 
If a charlotte mould be 
used, line it with paper, 
butter thoroughly, 
decorate with slices of 
hard-cooked egg, and 
then fill as above. 



a cup of canned tomato, a sprig or two 
of parsley, a small onion into which 
three cloves have been pushed, and a 
teaspoonful of salt. Cover, and let 
cook on the top of the range or in the 
oven about tw^enty-five minutes. Re- 
move the onion and parsley, and with 
a silver fork stir in one-fourth a cup 
of butter. Have ready a charlotte or 
melon mould, thoroughly buttered, and 
about a pint of cooked chicken or veal 
(less will do), freed from skin and bone 
and cut in small pieces. Stir the meat 
in two or three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, adding salt and pepper. Pack 
the rice and meat in the mould in alter- 




Bowl Covered with Paper to Avoid Spattering 
During Beating 

nate layers, pressing the rice down firm. 
Set the mould in the oven on several 



Steamed Apples (Mrs. R. Cun- 
ningham) 
A delicious and simple way to pre- 
pare wdnter apples: Peel, quarter, and 
core six or eight apples. Steam or boil 
until about half -cooked. Take from 
the fire, and let cool. Make a syrup 
of two cups of sugar and half a cup of 
water. Drop the apples into the boil- 
ing syrup for a few minutes, or until 
they become clear. Let cool, and serve 
with cream. 

Popcorn Balls 
Pop one pint of shelled corn, and salt 
it slightly, after carefully 
removing any kernels that 
are not well puffed. In the 
mean time boil one cup 
and a half, each, of mo- 
lasses and granulated su- 
gar, stirring occasionally, 
to 245° F. or until a little 
dropped into cold water 
may be worked into a ball 
that will "click" when 
dropped into a cup. To 
the cooked molasses add 
one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of soda, stirred into a tea- 
spoonful of cold water, 
and two or three table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Beat thoroughly, 
and pour over the com, mixing it 



of Cream 



Seasonable Recipes 



143 



thoroughly with the 'com as it is of sifted pastry flour, one level tea- 
added to it. Then with buttered hands- spoonful and a half of baking-powder, 
roll the mass into balls. and one-fourth a teaspoonful of mace. 



Toasted Marshmallows 

These may be toasted on 
long forks over a bed of 
coals in a fire-place, or they 
may be disposed on a double 
broiler set on the top of a 
hot stove. When one side 
is browned, turn the marsh- 
mallows and brown the other 
side. If the stove be very 
hot, set the confections on 
the doubled broiler. Serve 
hot. 

Fruit-and-Nut Rolls 

Sift together, three times, three 
cups of flour, six level teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder, and half a teaspoonful 
of salt. Work in from one-third to 
one-half a cup of shortening. Then 
mix to a dough wdth milk. Turn the 
dough onto a floured board, knead 
slightly, then roll out into a rectangular 
sheet about one-third an inch thick. 
Brush over the sheet of dough with 
softened butter, then sprinkle with 
sultana raisins or cleaned currants 
and filberts (hazelnuts), cut into sev- 
eral pieces. Roll up the dough com- 
pactly, then cut the 
roll in pieces an inch 
long. Set these on 
end, close together, in 
a buttered baking- 
pan. Bake about 
twentv minutes. 



Pound Cake 

(Cut and Decorated for 

Use in Baskets ot 

Assorted Cakes) 

Beat one cup of but- 
ter to a cream. Gradually beat in one 
cup and a half of powdered sugar and 
then the beaten yolks of four eggs. Sift 
together, twice, two cups and a half 




Fruit-and-Nut Rolls 

Add the flour mixture to the first 
mixture, alternately, with half a cup 
of milk. Lastly add the whites of the 
eggs, beaten dry. Beat the batter very 
thoroughly, then turn into a shallow 
baking-pan, lined with paper and but- 
tered carefully. Bake between thirty 
and forty minutes. When cold, trim 
the sheet of cake neatly, then with 
a sharp knife cut in strips about an incb. 
and a half wide. Cut these strips into 
such shapes as desired. A glance at 
the illustration will show how it may- 
be cut to advantage or how to secure 
the largest number of cakes of different 
shapes. Beat the white of an egg and 




Pound Cake Cut in Various Shapes 

one-fourth a cup of powdered sugar- 
until well mixed, and with this brush 
over each cake. Let the cakes stand 
uncovered several hours or over night,. 



144 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



to dry the egg, and thus keep the cake 
from crumbHng when the frosting is 
apphed. Frost with fondant, confec- 




Chocolate-Cream Cake 

tioner's icing, or ornamental icing. 
Decorate with icing put on with a fine 
tube. The flour weighs half a pound. 

Chocolate-Cream Cake 

(Mrs, Vermaas) 
Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a 
cream and the yolks of two eggs until 
thick. Then gradually beat half a cup 
of sugar into each, and combine the two 
mixtures. Add four ounces of chocolate 
melted over hot water. Then, alter- 
nately, half a cup of milk and one cup 
and a half of sifted flour, sifted again 
with two level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder. Lastly, beat in the whites of 
two eggs, beaten dry, and a teaspoonful 



:^ 


IS 


M 




m 


m:J 


P 1 

- 1 


y 


V 


'T! 



Strips of Pistachio Cake cut in Diamond-shaped Pieces 



of vanilla extract. Bake in two layers 
about eighteen minutes. Put the 
layers together with the following icing. 
Spread the same icing over the top. 



Cream Icing for Chocolate-Cream 
Cake 

vSet two cups of granulated sugar, one 
tablespoonful of butter, and 
two-thirds a cup of rich milk 
into a saucepan of boiling 
water, and stir occasionally 
until melted. Then set over 
the fire, and stir constantly 
while boiling from four to six 
minutes. The mixture should 
boil at once, or the time 
cannot be judged accurately. 
When thick as cream, re- 
move from the fire and beat 
until cool enough to spread. 
Flavor with a teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract. The icing 
should be perfectly smooth, and cover 
the two layers to the depth of one- 
fourth an inch. 

Pistachio Cake 
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream, 
and gradually beat in one cup and a half 
of sugar. vSift together, two or three 
times, two cups and one-fourth of 
floiir, one-fourth a teaspoonful of soda, 
and three-fourths a teaspoonful of 
cream of tartar (measured level). Add 
the flour mixture to the butter and 
sugar, alternately, with half a cup of 
milk. Lastly, add the whites of five 
eggs, beaten dry, and one teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract. Beat thoroughly, 
and bake in a shallow pan, 
to make a sheet of cake 
about an inch and a quar- 
ter thick. When cold, 
spread a boiled frosting 
on the inverted cake, and 
sprinkle it with fine- 
chopped pistachio nuts. 
Cut the cake in strips an 
inch and a half vVide, and 
these diagonally to make 
diamond-shaped pieces. 

Boiled Frosting 
BoiLone cup of sugar and one-third 
a cup' of water to 238°, or until the 



Seasonable Recipes 



45 



svrup spins a thread. Pour the syrup 
in a fine stream onto the white of an 
egg, beaten dry, beating meanwhile 
with a Dover egg- 
beater. Set the bowl 
in cold water, and con- 
tinue beating until the 
icing stiffens and holds 
its shape. Then use 
as above. 



and water, each equal in weight to the 
weight of the nuts. Add the nuts to 
the syrup, and let simmer very gently 



Vanilla Chestnut 
Preserve 

Cut a one-fourth- 
inch slit in each chest- 
nut shell. Then cook 
two minutes in boiling 
water. Drain and let 
dry in the frying-pan. 
Add a teaspoonful of butter or dripping 
for each pint of nuts, and shake the 
pan over the fire, to coat each nut. 
Then with a sharp knife inserted at 
the slit made for the purpose remove 
the shell and inner skin together, thus 
shelling and blanching the nuts at the 
same time. Keep the nuts covered 
until shelled, as this can be done more 
easily when the nuts are hot. Cover the 
blanched nuts with boiling water, and 
let simmer very gently until tender. It 




Parfait, Nesselrode Style 

two hours. Then drain off the SA^rup, 
and reduce to a good consistency. Add 
the chestnuts, let stand an hour, drain 
again, and reduce as before. Then store 
in jars. Flavor with vanilla, a table- 
spoonful to a quart, as soon as the 
nuts are cold, then set aside as rich 
preserves. 

Parfait, Nesselrode Style 
Bring to the boiling-point half a cup 
of syrup from a jar of preserved chest- 




Jar of Vanilla Chestnut Preserve. Moulds with Double Covers Ready to Fill. Block 

for Unmoulding Ices 



will take between one and two hours. 
Weigh the nuts before cooking, and, 
when tender, make a syrup of sugar 



nuts, and pour it in a fine stream onto 
the yolks of three eggs, beaten and 
diluted with one-fourth a cup of sugar 



46 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



(scant measure). Add one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt, and return the whole 
to the fire to cook over hot water. 
Stir constantly until the mixture thick- 
ens. Then set into cold water, and 
beat while cooling. Then add half a 
cup of chestnuts, pressed through a 
sieve, and half a cup of sultana raisins 
and French candied fruit, cut small and 
soaked over night in maraschino to 
cover (or use maraschino cherries, cut 
fine). Have ready a pint of cream, 
beaten solid, and into this cut and fold 
the chestnut and fruit mixture. Turn 
into a mould lined with paper, filling 
the mould to overflow. Spread a paper 
over the cream, and over this press 
the cover. Then pack the mould in 
equal measures of salt and crushed ice. 



and beat again. Then stir into one 
pint of milk scalded over hot water. 
Cook, stirring constantly until the mixt- 
ure coats the spoon, then strain at 
once into a cold dish. When both 
custards are cold, turn the silver cus- 
tards into individual dishes, and pour 
the gold custard, flavored with vanilla, 
around them. 

South Chatham Lady Fingers 
Beat the yolks of three eggs until 
thick. Gradually beat in one-third 
a cup of sugar and a grating of lemon 
rind. Then cut and fold in a scant 
three-fourths a cup of flour and the 
white of one egg, beaten dry. Shape 
with a pastry bag and plain tube on 
waxed paper. Bake about ten minutes. ^ 




Silver-and-Gold Custards 

Let stand about three hours. Serve 
garnished with whipped cream and dec- 
orated with slices of cherries and chest- 
nuts. 

Silver-and-Gold Custards 

(To serve five) 
Give the whites of five eggs a few 
beats with an egg-beater. Add one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt and one- 
third a cup of sugar, and beat till well 
mixed. Then beat in one cup of rich 
milk or thin cream. Strain the mixt- 
ure into five timbal moulds, but- 
tered thoroughly and dredged with 
sugar. Bake on several folds of paper 
in a dish of hot water. Let cool 
thoroughly. Beat the yolks of five 
eggs, add one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt and a scant half a cup of sugar, 



Sponge Dominoes 
Bake South Chatham 
lady-finger mixture or 
other sponge cake 
mixture in a sheet one- 
fourth an inch thick. 
When cold, cut in pieces 
the shape of dominoes. 
Melt three ounces of 
chocolate, and with it 
cover one side of the 
dominoes. Have ready some blanched 
almonds. Split these while they are 
moist, and with a small cutter (a copper 
decorating tube is good) cut into tiny 
rounds for use in making dominoes 
of different numbers. 

Fruit-and-Xut Caramel Fudge 
Stir three cups of sugar and one cup 
of thin cream over the fire until the 
sugar is melted. Then boil without 
stirring to the soft-ball stage. At 
the same time stir one cup of sugar 
over the fire until it becomes caramel. 
Pour the first mixture into the caramel, 
and let boil up once. Take from the 
fire, and beat until thick, adding at 
the last half a cup of citron, candied 
cherries, pineapple, and plums cut 
fine, and one cup of pecan-nut meats. 



Menus for One Week in October 



" Sucij ijcgctablcs as celerg ougijt to lengtf)en fjuttian life, at least to correct its btltausness, anti tnafte it 
more stoeet anli sanguine." — John Burroughs. 



^Breakf^t 

Grapes. 

Shredded Wheat Biscuit and Tomato 

Sandwich. 

Boston Brown Bread, Toasted. 

CofFee. 

Dinner 

Game Broth. Celery. 

Nut Loaf, Brown Sauce. 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Grape Sherbet. White Cake. 

Coffee. 

Sapper 

Scalloped Oysters, Chafing-dish Style. 

Chocolate-cream Cake. 

Tea. 



Breakf3.st 

Toasted Corn Flakes. 

Creamed Celery on Toast. Poached Eggs. 

Southern Beaten Biscuit. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Green Lima Beans, Buttered. 

Baked Apple Dumpling, Hard Sauce. 

Cocoa. 

Dinner 

Black Bass Baked in Cream. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Tomatoes Stuffed with Celery Mayonnaise. 

Rice Pudding Glace, Sliced Oranges. 

Black Coffee. 



"BreakUsi 

Gluten Grits. Baked Apples. 

Broiled Bacon. Fried Eggs. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Graham MuflB.ns. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Celery and Cheese au Gratin. 

Bread and Butter. 

Apple Tapioca Pudding, Cream and Sugar. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Roast Rump of Veal, Brown Sauce. 

Ripe Cucumbers Cooked with the Veal. 

Lima Beans, Buttered. 

Currant Jelly. 

Baked Pears. Toasted Crackers. Cheese. 

Small Cups of Coffee. 



breakfast 
Grape-nuts, Cream. 
Eggs in the Shell. Broiled Tomatoes. 
English Muffins, Toasted. 
Apple Marmalade. 
Coffee. 
Luncheon 
Lettuce-and-Fig Salad. 
Rye Bread and Butter. 
Silver-and-Gold Custard. Cookies. 
Cereal Coff'ee. 
Dinner 
Chickens en Casserole. 
Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style. 

Celery Salad. 

Individual Charlotte Russe. 

Black Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Malt Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Broiled Ham. Hashed Brown Potatoes. 

Fried Eggs. Hot Apple Sauce. 

Parker House Rolls. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Veal Pilau, Turkish Style. 

Squash Pie. Grapes. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Broiled Sirloin Steak. Baked Sweet Potato. 

Tomatoes, French Dressing. 

Apricots, Easter Style. 

Crackers. Cheese. 

Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Cream. 
Creamed Chicken on Toast. 

Hot Apple Sauce. 
Tottenham Muffins. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Oyster Stew. New Pickles. 

Apple Pie. Cheese. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Halibut Cutlets, Aurora. 

Potatoes Maitre d'Hotel. 

Buttered Onions. Cucumbers. 

Hot Apple Tapioca Pudding. 

Junket Ice-cream. 

Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Toasted Corn Flakes. 

Baked Sweet Apples. 

Corned Beef-and-Potato 

Hash (Green Pepper). 

Buttered Toast. Doughnuts. 

Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Baked Beans, New York Style. 

Fruit-and-Nut Rolls. 

Cocoa. 



IXnner 

Veal Cutlets in Brown Sauce. 
Boiled Potatoes. Baked Squash. 
Crab-apple Jelly. 
Custard Souffle, 

Sabayon Sauce. 
Black Coffee. 



Menus for Children's Home (October) 

{Ages from Six to Sixteen) 
"■ S2Ee go on \\\ tije beaten IrarUt irittf)aut profiting bg tfje ijarictirs iB^jtc!) are to be founti on ebtrg siliE." 

breakfast 



*Brea.kfsLsi 

Oatmeal Mush, Milk. 
Bread. Butter. 

THnner 

Pot Roast of Beef, Brown Sauce. 

Parboiled Potatoes Baked ^^ithDrippinc 

Sliced Tomatoes. 

Bread. 

Apple Tapioca Pudding, 

Milk, Sugar. 

Supper 

Bread or Crackers. Milk. 
Drop Cookies. 



Bacon Cooked in Broiler in Oven. 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk. 

Corn-meal Muffins or Cake. 

^nner 

Boiled Haddock, Boiled Potatoes, Butter 

Sauce. 

String Beans. 

Steamed Suet Pudding, Molasses. 



Supper 
Bread or Crackers. 



Milk. 





"Brea-kf^t 


<=Breakf3isi 






Hominy Mush, Milk. 


Creamed Fish. 






Bread, Molasses. 


Hashed Potatoes. 
Fried Mush. Bread. 




> 
< 

O 


"Dinner 

Beef (Pot Roast) and Potato Hash. 
Pickled Beets. 
. Bread. Milk (for Young Children). 
Baked Apples. 


"IXnner 

Fore Quarter of Lamb, Boiled. 

Boiled Potatoes, White Sauce (Lamb 

Broth). Celery. 

Apple Dumplings, Sugar, Milk. 


X 

o 

> 




Supper 


Supper 
Cream-of-Celerv^ Soup (Lamb Broth and 




Hot Boiled Rice, Milk or :Molasses. 


Milk). 






Bread. Butter. 


Browned Crackers. 






^reakUsi 


mreakfasi 






Fried Hominy Mush, Molasses. 


Corn-meal Johnny Cake or Griddle-cakes, 






Bread. Butter. 


Molasses. 
Bread. Milk. 




>^ 


^Dinner 




2 


< 


Baked Beans. Brown Bread. 


"IXnner 


Stewed Tomatoes or Tomato Catsup. 


Haddock Chowder. Crackers. 


3 




Rice Pudding \\-ith Raisins. 


Apple Tapioca Pudding, 


> 




Sugar, Milk. 


^ 




Supper 


Supper 






Bread. Butter. 


Milk Toast. 






Apple Sauce. Cocoa. Drop Cookies. 


Drop Cookies. 





^resLkfa-si 

Milk. Oatmeal. 
Half a Banana, Each. 



Dinner 

Split-pea Soup. Bread. 

Chocolate Bread Pudding 

(Eggs), 

Liquid Sauce (Sugar, 

Qornstarchj and Water). 



Supper 
Baltimore Samp, Molasses. 
Bread. Milk. 



Menus for Children's Home (October) 

{Ages from Six to Sixteen) 
Mt fi0 on m tfje btatzn tracft bJttfjDxit profiting ftg t\^t bariettes i»i}tcf) are to be founU on cberg silir.' 



'Breakfast 

Baked Apples. Bread. 



Milk. 



*Dinner 

Fore Quarter of Mutton Steamed and 

Browned in Oven, Brown Sauce. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Succotash (Dried Lima Beans and Corn). 

Cornstarch Blanc-mange, 

Sugar, Milk. 



Supper 
Boiled Rice. Bread. 



Milk. 



*Sre£ikUst 

Fried Cereal Mush, Molasses. 
Bread and Butter. 



^Dinner 

Haddock-and-Potato Cakes. 

Bacon. Sliced Tomatoes. 

Dutch Apple Cake. 



Sapper 

Boiled Rice, Molasses or Milk and Sugar. 
Bread and Butter. 



"BreakUsi 

Boston Brown Bread Cream Toast. 
Oatmeal, Milk. 



^Dinner 

Lamb-and-Potato Hash. 

Stewed Tomatoes or Spinach. 

Chocolate Bread Pudding. 



Supper 

Bread. Apple Marmalade. 
Plain Cake. 



^Breakfast 

Oatmeal. Half a Banana, Each. Milk. 
Rye^neal MufiSns. Butter. 



'Dinner 

Hot Veal Loaf, Brown Sauce. 

Potatoes. Squash Baked with Molasses. 

Apple Tapioca Pudding, Milk, Sugar. 



Supper 
Bread and Milk. 



^reakfsLsi 

Cereal, Milk. 
Bread. Marmalade. 



^Dinner 

Cold Boiled Ham. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Spinach. 
Pumpkin Pie. 



Sapper 

Milk Toast. 

Drop Cookies. 



X 

CO 



breakfast 


'BreakfsLsi 




Wheat Cereal, Milk. 


Bacon Broiled in Oven. 




Bread and Butter. 


Baked Potatoes or Potatoes Warmed in Milk. 
Bread. 




THnner 






Boiled Fresh Haddock or Cod, 






Butter Sauce. 


^nner 


Boiled Potatoes. 


Fresh Fish Chowder. Crackers. 


% 


Celery. 


Boiled Beets. 


Squash Pie (with or without Pastry). 


Tapioca Custard. 


Supper 






Bread. Butter. Apple Sauce. 


Sapper 




Plain Cake. 


Popcorn. Milk. 





Menus tor Occasions 

" ®2Sf)en asfeeti out to titne ftg a person of ©ualttg, 
IHinti anti ofescriJE tlje most strict punctualitg ! 
JFor sfjoula gou rome late, anU tnalte Hinntx hjait, 
<anti tlje bictuals get tola, gou' II incur, sure as fate, 
E-ift iHaster's displeasure, tlje Mistress's i}ate. 
<lnli, tijougfj trotfj ntag, peri}aps, be too bjell-ireli to sbear, — 
^ijeg'll ijeartilg bjisfj gou — 31 neeti not sag ©SSijere." — Canon Barham. 

Breakfast Party 

Cantaloupe. 
Fried Fillets of Fish. Cucumber Salad. Persillade Potatoes. 
Broiled Spring Chicken. Creamed Celery. 

Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. Kaiser Rolls. 
French Omelet with Bar-le-duc Currants. Coffee. 



Wedding Breakfast 



Chicken Soup en Tasse with Whipped Cream. 

Celery Hearts. King Olives. Salted Nuts. 

Halibut Timbales, Shrimp Sauce. Cucumbers. 

Lamb Chops with Duxelle and Forcemeat. Potato Croquettes. 

Small Lima Beans, Maitre d'Hotel. 

Peach Cup. Pistachio Cake. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

White and Purple Grapes. 

Cream-of-String Bean Soup. 

Oyster Croquettes. Sauce Tartare. 

Broiled Spring Chicken. Individual Celery Souffle. 

Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad, French Dressing (with Onion Juice). 

Chestnut Parfait. 

Macaroons. Lady Fingers. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Salpicon of Fruit in Tiny Melons, Cut in Halves. 

Chicken Bouillon. 

Black Bass Turbans Baked in Cream. Cauliflower au Gratin. Cucumber Salad. 

Sweetbread-and-Oyster (Brown Sauce) Patties. 

Roast Partridge, Bread Sauce. 

Grape Punch. 

Celery-and-Pineapple Salad. 

Philadelphia Cream Cheese. 

Raisins Moulded in Wine Jelly, Whipped Cream. Coffee. 

Hallowe'en Supper 
I. 

Cabbage-and-Nut Salad. 

Rye Bread (Carraway Seed) and Butter Sandwiches. 

Apples. Doughnuts. Salted Butternuts. 

Cider. 

n. 

Boston Brown Bread with Raisins, Nut- and -Cheese Sandwiches. 

Mayonnaise of Celery and Apple in Apple Shells. 

Coffee. 

Sponge Dominoes. Toasted Marshmallows. 

Caramel Fruit- and -Nut Fudge. 

Popcorn Balls. 



After Breakfast Chat 



By Janet M. Hill 



"Unless the stomach be in good humor, every part of the machinery of life must vibrate 
with langour." — Dr. Kitchener. 



THIS is eminently a prosaic age. 
Women at table no longer 
pick at food, bird-fashion, but 
eat heartily, and are not ashamed of it. 
Literature and the arts are cultivated 
more successfully by the healthy and 
robust than by the hollov^-eyed and 
pale-faced aenemic. Yet with all man- 
ner of things to eat there is a great 
dearth of satisfying food. Every one 
knov^s that a hungry man is a danger- 
ous member of society, but it is not as 
well known that every individual who 
is to attain his highest efficiency must 
be well nourished, and still less is the 
fact appreciated that savor may be 
made a means of making people con- 
tented and satisfied with their lot in life. 
Undoubtedly it is best that one be rest- 
less and desirous of improving his con- 
dition, but this restlessness must be 
kept within bounds; and a man with 
a full stomach is usually amenable to 
law and order. 

When people complain of their food, 
she who provides the foo'd is inclined 
to say, "They will eat when they are 
hungry"; but the fact is people in 
rural communities, children in public 
homes and institutions, patients and 
attendants in hospitals, and others 
of this class are chronically hungry, 
and cannot eat. These stiff er from 
malnutrition, largely occasioned by 
monotony and lack of savor in food. 
There are many people, largely those 



of middle life and beyond, who eat too 
much ; but there are also large numbers 
of people who eat too small a quantity 
of food. 

We give in this number menus for 
a home where children are cared for. 
In childhood it is that the seeds of 
health or disease, of success or failure 
in life, are sown, and primarily through 
the food that is supplied. When the 
elements necessary for the work of the 
body are lacking in food, either on 
account of quality or quantity, mate- 
rial is taken from the body itself, and 
warped nerves that will yield in the 
future a dividend in warped judgment 
and action is the sure result. 

The food of growing children should 
be generous in quantity, varied in selec- 
tion, and so palatable that each and 
every child may enjoy it. Each meal 
should be a surprise, and looked for- 
ward to with pleasure. Expensive 
materials are not essential, but inex- 
pensive ones need to be handled with 
much more care than those that cost 
more, if they are to be made appetizing. 
Stews are wholesome for occasional 
use, but a superabundance of liquid or 
semi-liquid food is by no means desir- 
able, and will surely occasion various 
forms of indigestion. Some form of 
fat, especially in cool weather, is a 
necessity; and, if butter cannot be fur- 
nished plentifully, nuts, bacon, and 
puddings with beef suet are whole- 



152 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



some substitutes. Let the bacon be 
cooked with care, that no short moment 
of over-heat discolor the thin shaving 
of meat or the delicate fat in the pan. 
This fat will furnish a dainty relish to 
baked potatoes or stale bread, or it 
may be used in preparing the nut loaf, 
a picture of which is given on page 140, 
and the recipe in answer to Query 1 163. 
This dish is hearty and suitable for all 
save young children. A dish of tart 
apple sauce may replace the slice of 
orange recommended with each service. 
Note that the loaf is cooked on a per- 
forated sheet and in a moderate oven. 
The recipe will serve sixteen or eighteen 
people. Popcorn — what child is not 
made happy with corn and popper? — 
and milk will afford a welcome Sunday 
night supper, and furnish occupation for 
several children in the afternoon. 
"With less luxury there is quite as 
much that is charming, gay, and delight- 
ful." The number of dishes suggested 
in the menus for each meal is small, 
and each can be prepared and cooked 
with the minimum of effort. 

Roasting and Cooking of Meats 
With the advent of cooler weather, 
roasts of beef, mutton, and fowl, are 
again given more place in the menus. 
A French chef of note is author of the 
thought that any chef who adds one 
drop of bouillon to the pan during the 
roasting of a joint should be driven 
from the country. In our own printed 
direction for roasting joints we say 
baste with dripping, to which hot 
water may be added if there be danger 
of the fat in the pan burning. How- 
ever, the remedy should be less heat 
rather than a liquid like water or stock. 
These create steam, and change the 
character of the dish being cooked. 
Roasting, as it is conducted to-day in 
well-ventilated ovens, if basting with 
hot fat, kept at a proper temperature, 
be judiciously applied, produces a dish 
with a savor of the open fire less only 



in degree from that of the joint cooked 
on the old-fashioned spit. The three 
things to be looked out for are the per- 
fectly ventilated oven, frequent basting 
with hot fat from the start (a joint 
cannot be basted too much), and high 
heat at first, followed by heat that does 
not bum the fat in the pan. 

Now that chickens are of fair size, 
partridge and quail seasonable, cas- 
serole cookery is again to the fore. 
Do not attempt the preliminary sau- 
teing in the casserole. The frying-pan 
presents more surface, and is in every 
way a more suitable utensil for this 
purpose. A casserole of chicken pre- 
pared for the return of a family that 
failed to return for the appointed meal, 
when reheated in the unopened cas- 
serole, gave a most pleasurable surprise. 
The dish surpassed itself. The same 
thing is true of curries, various stews, 
and ragouts. Kept hot for several 
hours over hot water, or reheated after 
standing, the flavors of the various 
ingredients have permeated the meat 
through and through, and the dish 
seems richer by far than when eaten 
the instant it is cooked. 

As served at fine hotels and restau- 
rants, casserole dishes are prepared 
with onion, carrot, fresh mushrooms, 
and sherry wine. These with slow 
cooking in a closely covered dish, after 
the preliminary browning in hot fat, 
give the flavor characteristic of the dish, 
but one or more of these items may be 
omitted, and celery or green peas, in 
season, substituted for the carrot and 
mushrooms. Birds are cooked whole, 
trussed as for roasting. Chickens may 
_be separated at the joints or, neatly 
trussed, cooked whole. Cooked the 
latter way, car\^e in the dish or on a 
platter, to which they are lifted at 
the table by the carv^er. A young 
chicken of two or three pounds in 
weight requires an hour and a half of 
cooking. Casseroles can be purchased 
that will hold two trussed chickens. 



Failure and Success in Cake-making 

By Mary D. Chambers 



THE writer's first attempt at 
cooking was an effort to make 
black currant jam. Fresh cur- 
rants were picked from the garden, 
sugar abstracted from the store closet, 
the two compounded together with 
a fearful and guilty joy, and the mixt- 
ure set over a bright fire to cook — in 
a wooden drinking vessel ! 

Next came a series of events when, 
as a reward for almost supernatural 
good behavior, she was given an egg 
to "do what she liked with.'' Need- 
less to ask what she Hked: it was 
always to make cake. The cake was 
mixed after some original fashion, and 
baked in a tin canister. Well, some- 
times parts of it were good enough to 
eat. Perhaps this measure of success 
was an incentive to perseverance, for 
cake is now one of the few, the very 
few things she really thinks she can 
make, and her love for this dainty is 
undiminished. The invitation of stu- 
dents to partake of dishes compounded 
in class is generally poHtely declined, 
but the offer of a piece of cake — good, 
bad, or indifferent — is always accepted. 
In no other lesson is the same interest 
on the part of the students observed, 
and this is the case with classes of all 
ages. The word "cake" brings forth 
an expression of content and joy on 
every face. There is completeness of 
absorption in her work on the part of 
every student, and they measure and 
sift and mix and compare batters 
with critical judgment, and in general 
act with a magnified and dispropor- 
tioned sense of the importance of their 
function that this misguided teacher 
finds charming. In this work during 
the past decade teacher and students 
alike have learned and unlearned 
much that it is now a pleasure, in re- 
sponse to a request from a reader of 
this magazine, to communicate to all 
makers and lovers of cake. 



Essential Ingredients in Cake 

Flour. For the best results this 
should be pastry flour, which is much 
whiter than bread flour, smoother in 
texture, and capable of retaining the 
impression of the fingers when squeezed 
in the hand. The best quality of 
pastry floirr will under no circumstances 
make really good bread, being what is 
technically known as a "weak flour." 
The difference between this and a 
"strong" or good bread flour is due 
to the quahty rather than quantity of 
the gluten content. Gluten is formed 
by the combination, in presence of 
water, of two proteid bodies found in 
wheat, gliadin and glutenin. When the 
proportion of glutenin is large, a "weak" 
.flour is the resiflt. Where, however, 
gliadin is in excess, the flour will be 
strong, yellowish, and capable of 
being kneaded into aii elastic mass. 
Hence it is obvious that the use of 
eggs is indicated with pastry flour, to 
impart the needed viscosity. Bread 
flour may, nevertheless, be substituted, 
if about one-eighth of the amount 
called for by the recipe be deducted, 
or, if a very strong flour be used, a 
mixture of one part cornstarch to three 
parts flour will give good results. 

Sugar. Many older recipes call for 
powdered or confectioner's sugar, be- 
cause several years ago granulated 
sugar was either unknown or manu- 
factured in coarser quality, whose large 
crystals spoiled the texture of the cake. 
To-day, however, granulated sugar can 
be used for all cakes except a very fine 
wafer mixture, where a satin smooth- 
ness of surface is desired. Brown 
sugar and molasses, if used for sweeten- 
ing,, will cause the cake to keep fresh 
longer. 

Butter. This, needless to say, should 
be of excellent quality, and, where a 
white cake is desired, should be free 



154 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



from added coloring matter. The 
natural color of butter is easily de- 
composed by the process of creaming, 
so that it can be beaten quite white. 
The dye, however, used in many cream- 
eries during the winter months is 
more stable, and often impossible to de- 
compose by creaming. 

Eggs. Preferably one day old. Will 
beat up better. The average-sized 
^gg, weighing two ounces, and in vol- 
ume about one-fourth of a cup, is 
usually meant, unless stated otherwise 
in the recipe. 

Baking-powder. As the manipula- 
tion in fine cake-making is somewhat 
slow, a baking-powder that does not 
immediately yield all of its gas on con- 
tact with liquid is preferable. This 
can easily be tested by mixing a little 
in water, and noting the duration of 
the effervescence. 

Wetting. Eggs form a large propor- 
tion of the wetting in most cakes. For 
the remainder, milk, water, tea, coffee, 
beer, etc., may be used. Water, at 
a pinch, may always be substituted 
for milk. The cake will be less rich, 
often more delicate and tender, not so 
fine-flavored, and will not keep fresh 
so long. The potassium salts in milk 
exercise a deliquescent influence which 
helps to keep the cake moist. Beer, 
by virtue of the action of its diastase, 
also tends to keep a cake moist, and 
the small amount of alcohol present, 
three to five per cent., will be dissipated 
by the heat of baking. 

Flavoring. Orange juice and lemon 
juice are apt to lose their flavor, lemon 
juice nearly completely, on exposure 
to baking temperature. The grated 
rind, being careful to use only the 
outside yellow (as the least bit of 
the white in combination with other 
ingredients imparts a permanently 
bitter flavor), gives a delicious flavor 
of the fruit. Of the manufactured 
flavorings the fruit sugars, or flavoring 
sugars, are more apt to retain the flavor 
during baking than the extracts, as 



the characteristic taste is lost to a 
great extent in volatilization of the 
alcohol. 

Proportions and Method 

An ordinary cake batter is a thick 
batter; that is, a batter which, when 
poured into the baking-pan, does not 
immediately sink to a level. In sum- 
mer, or where the manipulation is 
performed in a warm room, it will 
sink a httle quicker than when the 
temperature is lower. When fruit or 
nuts are used, the batter may be 
slightly stiff er. Many failures in cake- 
making occur, when the maximum of 
butter is used, from having the batter 
too thin. Twice as much flour, by vol- 
ume, as wetting, — the wetting to include 
eggs as well as milk or other Hquid, — 
is an approximately good proportion for 
a cake batter, but no exact rule can be 
given, owing to the difference in flours. 
A very little practice suffices to develop 
judgment as to proper consistency 
of the batter. Needless to say, in any 
recipe where eggs are substituted for 
milk or other wetting, the amount of 
the latter must be diminished pro- 
portionately; that is to say, four eggs, 
or a cup of eggs, is not equal as wetting 
to a cup of milk, on account of their 
greater density and the large amount 
of coagulable material present, but a cup 
of eggs may safely be regarded as equal 
to hah the volume of milk. This rule, 
again, is subject to correction by the 
appearance of the batter. 

The maximum of butter can hardly, 
with safety, be in excess of one-third 
the volume of floiir. More than this 
will cause the cake to "fall," in most 
cases. When nuts, chocolate, or any 
other substance rich in fat, is added 
to the batter, it is well to deduct one- 
fourth a cup of butter for every cup 
of nuts, etc., used. By the way, a quar- 
ter of a teaspoonful extra of salt to 
every cup, when nuts are used, en- 
hances their flavor wonderfully. 

The amount of baking-powder de- 



Failure and Success in Cake-making 



155 



pends on the constituents of said 
powder. For instance, a tartaric acid 
baking-powder, molecular weight 318, 
evolves a weight of CO2 equal to 88. 
A cream of tartar powder, molecular 
weight 272, evolves gas equal to 44; 
an alum powder, weight 1021, gas 
264; a phosphate baking-powder, 
weight 804, gas 176. Postulating that 
a teaspoonful of any of the baking- 
powders of commerce approximates 
almost exactly in weight a teaspoonful 
of any other, the gas evolved by the 
cream of tartar powder may be rep- 
resented by I, that by the tartaric acid 
1.2, the alum 4, and the phosphate 
1.5. This is somewhat offset by the 
greater stabihty of the cream of tartar 
powder, the evolution of gas not being 
completed until heat is apphed to the 
batter. The above figures do not rep- 
resent, to the writer's knowledge, the 
exact yield in gas per given weight 
of any baking-powder of commerce: 
they are the result of laboratory ex- 
periments with constituents typical 
of the chief classes of manufactured 
powders. Each housekeeper has prob- 
ably her favorite brand, and has learned 
by experience how much to use. 

Two-thirds as much sugar as flour 
is ample, even for those who Hke a 
very sweet cake. If more is used, it 
will be difficult to avoid burning, and 
the cake will be more apt to fall. 

After creaming the butter, the sugar 
is gradually added, then the eggs, then 
the dry mixture of flour, salt, and bak- 
ing-powder, sifted together, is added 
alternately with the milk or other 
wetting. This is to avoid curdling 
the batter by the addition of cold 
liquid to the softened butter. Such 
curdHng always causes coarse texture. 
Flavoring and fruit are added last. 
But these rules may not only with 
impunity, but advantage, be disre- 
garded. The fruit may be mixed 
with the flour, may be added to the 
creamed butter and sugar, if a darker 



cake is liked, or, when added last, 
may either be heated to plumpness 
in the oven or lightly floured before 
adding. Heating, or mixing with the 
butter and sugar, diminishes the density 
of the fruit. Flour on the outside in- 
creases friction. Both methods tend 
to prevent sinking of the fruit in the 
batter. The eggs may be broken 
whole into the mixture of butter and 
sugar: this gives a heavier cake, but 
one which will keep fresh longer. 
They may be beaten before addition, 
or yolk and white may be separated, 
the beaten yolks added to the creamed 
butter and sugar, and the whites, 
stiffly beaten, added the last thing 
to the batter. The maximum of light- 
ness is attained by this method, but 
the cake will dry out quicker. The 
amount of baking-powder may always 
be reduced, when many eggs are used, 
to the extent of from one-quarter to one- 
half a teaspoonful less for each egg than 
would be used for a plain mixture. 

Students have often experimented 
successfully in simplifying the process 
of making cake. They have mixed all 
the dry material, all the wet, stirred 
the two together, and added the 
melted butter last. In this method 
they have learned that stirring the 
batter much before the addition of the 
butter toughens the mixture, stirring 
it after the butter is added makes it 
tender. Then they have ''dumped" 
everything together, indiscriminately, 
into a big bowl, the butter being just 
softened, and beat them all up at once 
imtil a fine-textured batter was made, 
resulting in an excellent cake. They 
have stirred the baking-powder in the 
last thing, which, by the way, is a 
logical method of using a powder that 
gives off the gas at once. They have 
omitted baking-powder and substituted 
manipulation. In short, we may say 
that the rules for making cake are 
flexible, and the work gives boundless 
opportunity for individuaHty. 




HOME IDILAS 
AND E:COriOMlES 



ikW/R 





Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



TO effectually clean^the inside of a 
vinegar cruet, use household am- 
monia. This has been tried with ex- 
cellent results where soda, small pebbles, 
and other customary cleansers proved 
failures. 

When the tape-needle is mislaid, 
select a safety-pin (which article is 
always at hand) of a size to enter the 
run easily, thrust through the tape, 
and clasp the pin. You will be sur- 
prised to find how well the pin does 
the work of a tape-needle. 

In making crust for lemon pies, it 
is advisable to bake the shells before 
filling. These will retain their shape 
better if baked over an inverted pie 
plate, well greased on the outside. In 
this way the dough does not shrink 
down into the bottom of the plate, as 
when baked in the old way. 

The old-fashioned lamp chimney may 
serve a useful purpose other than that 
of illumination, in farm-houses and 
houses not of modern construction. 
It is more convenient, when illness in 
the night calls for a hot application, to 
use a heated lamp chimney wrapped 
in a cloth, without getting out of bed, 
than to repair to the kitchen for hot 
water. 

Even two or three hat-pins will not 
always serv^e to secure the wire frames 
of modern millinery construction to 
milady's head upon a windy day. A 
few stout hair-pins thrust through the 
crown underneath, where it touches 
the head, and pinned to the hair, ser\^e 
to hold the hat firmly. If the hat be 



of felt or other material too stiff for a 
hair-pin to penetrate, make some small 
loops underneath to accommodate the 
hair-pins. 

In frying fish, to avoid odors and a 
fat-besmeared stove, as soon as the 
fish has browned a little on the under 
side, set the frying-pan in the oven, 
on the top grate, and let it remain 
until the fish is done. 



J. E. T. 






Grape Sweetmeat 

EIGHT pounds of grapes, four pounds 
of sugar, two oranges (use peel and 
pulp, sliced), one and one-half pounds 
of raisins, stoned. Pulp grapes, cook 
until seeds rise to surface, skim them 
off, and add skins. Cook fifteen min- 
utes. Add sugar, orange, and raisins. 
Boil three-quarters of an hour, or until 
as thick as marmalade. 



Tomato Creole 

CUT in halves, crosswise, six large, 
fine tomatoes. Place in a buttered 
baking-pan, and sprinkle over them 
two green peppers, fine-chopped, one 
teaspoonful of chopped onion, two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, in small pieces, 
and a liberal seasoning of salt and 
paprika. Lift the tomato slices on to 
rounds of buttered toast. Then add 
to the liquor left in the baking-pan two 
tablespoonfuls of butter and two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, melted and browned. 
Stir well with a wire whisk. Add one 



Home Ideas and Economies 



>57 



cup of cream. Let it boil up. Then 

strain over tomatoes and toast. 

E. R. A. 
* 

AT this time of the year almost 
every housekeeper has a quantity 
of jelly left from last year which she 
wishes to use before making a fresh 
supply. Jelly makes a very pleasant 
addition to lemonade, used in the fol- 
lowing way: Dissolve a small glass of 
jelly in boiling water, add the juice of 
two lemons and a quart of water. 
A combination of two or three flavors 
is very good, as quince and apple jell}^ 
flavored with geranium leaf, grape and 
crab -apple, quince and black currant; 
or any others that one happens to have 
at hand. 

The brandy from brandied peaches 
used in an emergency to flavor the 
grape-fruit, orange, or canteloupes, 
was pronounced superior to the usual 
madeira, sherry, or maraschino. This 
was also a pleasant addition to the 
jelly lemonade. 

The dissolved jelly mixed with rather 
thick cream, flavored with the brandy, 
makes a good pudding sauce for plain 
rice or tapioca pudding, served either 
hot or cold. 

A teaspoonful of the bottled tama- 
rinds in a glass of water is a refreshing 
drink, and a good substitute for lemon- 
ade. Lemon juice and water without 
sugar is very acceptable on summer days, 
served at meals instead of water, and 
is also an aid to digestion. 

Stains on white clothing that can- 
not be removed by boiling yield to the 
following exceedingly simple method 
used by an Irish laundress. After 
washing thoroughly, hang the article 
in the sun, dripping wet. When dry, 
dip into cold water again, and hang out 
dripping wet. Repeat as many times 
as necessary. This renders the cloth- 
ing beautifully white and clean with- 
out the labor and heat of boiling. 

H. G. D. 



IN answer to many queries concern- 
ing the "monkey stove," I will say 
that it much resembles a laundry stove. 
The top is larger, however, and the 
additional oven is inserted in the pipe. 
For economy both in fuel and original 
price of stove, and for use in small 
families, it is the happy medium. It 
burns coal or wood, the first mentioned 
being most satisfactory. 

The fire-bowl being small, wood has 
to be cut in small chunks, and soon burns 
out. 

To keep fire over night, see that there 
is a good body fire, and cover with good 
quality of coal. Then lay a stove-hfter 
under the front lid of stove to keep 
it open about an inch, and close lower 
drafts. Open damper in pipe. By 
so manipulating it, it will furnish 
enough heat during the night to take 
the chili off the room. 

In furnishing light housekeeping 
rooms for students in the winter time, 
it meets all requirements, both for 
heating and cooking. Should any of 
my readers purchase one, be sure to 
have the damper placed above the 
oven. Some tinners, ignorant of the 
workings of this little stove, wiU place 
the damper below, and then the oven 
will not bake : while, when placed prop- 
erly, there is no trouble. 

The "monkey stove" is not a "thing 
of beauty," but a "joy forever." 

May E. Morrow. 

* 

* * 

SOILED and limp straw hats in white 
and cream color can be nicely 
cleaned and stiffened by washing in a 
weak solution of oxalic acid. Remove 
all trimming. Dissolve one or two table- 
spoonfuls — one need not be exact — 
of the crystals in a bowl of warm water. 
Wash hat thoroughly, using a nail- 
brush. Rinse well in two clear waters, 
and dry in sun and air. Men's hats 
are particularly easy to clean, as are 
all chip, Milan, and stiff straws. In 
the case of colored straws that look 



158 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



faded and are limp, try washing in 
warm ivory soap-suds with brush. 

If housekeepers reaUzed the con- 
venience of small gummed labels, like 
those druggists use, they would never 
be without them. In fruit canning 
season they are a boon. No hunting 
for paste nor cutting of paper. Just 
write the name, moisten, and stick 
on jar. They are also most useful for 
numerous other things, such as labeling 
boxes and bags and bundles stored 
away full of various things, on bot- 
toms of plates, glasses, tin or china- 
ware when used for picnics or church 
socials. They are cheap, costing about 
ten cents per hundred. 

A black and white shepherd check, 
all-wool, pleated skirt, which was hope- 
lessly soiled and badly spotted, was 
successfully cleaned by immersing at 
night in a bath-tub half filled with 
cold water, to which had been added 
a small cake of ivory soap, first shaved, 
cooked to a jelly in boiling water, and 
two tablespoonfuls of borax. Next 
morning this water, which was very 
dirty, was drawn off, and the skirt 
was soused up and down in clean clear 
water of same temperature. This was 
drawn off, and followed by two more 
rinse waters, taking care to have all of 
same temperature. No rubbing. The 
skirt was then hung out of doors on 
the line without wringing at all, in a 
warm, sunny place, and in six hours 
was perfectly dry, and so smooth as 
scarcely to need pressing. It was 
pressed under a damp cloth, however, 
and looked like new. 

This method is equally successful 
with white woolen materials. Noth- 
ing will shrink in the least; but some 
colors will fade and run even in cold 
soap-suds, and one should try a piece 
before washing an3rthing about which 
there is any uncertainty. 

To keep cut flowers fresh longer than 
usual, immerse the stems for a minute 
or two in boiling water. Then put in 
cold water. This method is particu- 



larly recommended for poppies. They 
will keep for two days if gathered earh^ 
and treated thus, where otherwise they 
would shatter in a few hours. 

W. C. Covington. 

* 
* * 

Green Almonds 

TO those who have not been in 
California the green almonds now 
on sale in Eastern cities are a curiosity. 
They resemble flattened, green, and 
rather shriveled peaches. They sell 
for thirty-five cents per pound. For 
the palates of those who prefer fresh 
nuts, the dried ones, commonly used 
and preferred in the United States, 
such as English walnuts, pecans, hick- 
ory, etc., can be freshened in water 
with good results. A good rinsing, 
or brief soaking removes the astringent, 
bark-like taste sometimes most notice- 
able in some grades of pecan nuts. 
Especially is this desirable when the 
nut-meats are bought already shelled, 
for the washing removes any chance of 
dust or soil of handling, and freshens 
them, thereby making them far pleas- 
anter either for a salad or any other use. 

J. D. c. 

* 

Pancakes from Porridge 

ONE and one-half cups of cold 
porridge, one and one-half cups of 
sour milk, one egg, flour to make an 
ordinary pancake batter, one teaspoon- 
ful of soda. Or, if made with two 
cups of sweet milk, omit the soda and 
add two teaspoonf uls of baking-powder 
to the flour. Miss E. A. Barker. 






Testing Jars 

TEST jar, cover, and rubber by 
filling jar one- third full of either 
hot or cold water. Stand on cover; 
and, if no water exudes, it is perfect. 
Do not get covers mixed when packing 
or filling jars. 



<-^5_Ql]£RIES AND ANSWERS^ 



^ 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to cuUnary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps ; for menus, $i . Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylst on Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1163. — Mrs. M. W. J., Holton, Kan.: 
"Recipe for nut loaf given in the Boston 
Cooking-School Magazine several years ago 
in an article by Helen Campbell." 

Nut Loaf 

(Vol. V. Boston Cooking-School Magazine.) 

Crumble the inside of stale white 
bread, and cut the crust fine. Then 
dry the whole slowly for two hours in a 
warm oven. Use a granite pan, and 
stir the crumbs occasionally. Dry 
the crumbs without browning them. 
To three pints of crumbs, measured 
before drying, add one teaspoonful of 
salt, one tablespoonful of minced 
parsley, one tablespoonful of dried 
sage leaves, crumbled fine before meas- 
uring, half a tfeaspoonful of black 
pepper, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
cayenne, one-eighth a teaspoonful of 
summer savory, one pint of celery (cut 
fine or ground), and one sour apple 
in thin bits. Melt one-third a pound 
of butter, and in it, fry for five min- 
utes one onion of medium size, chopped 
fine. Pour this over the other ingre- 
dients, and mix thoroughly. Beat 
three eggs. Add one pint of milk, 
and pour over the mixture. Let stand 
to soften the crumbs while three cups 
of nut-meats — pecans; filberts, and 
Brazil nuts — are ground fine. Re- 
serve one tablespoonful of the ground 
nuts for the sauce, and mix the rest 
into the crumbs. When the whole is 
well mixed, shape it into a loaf four 



inches wide and three or more inches 
thick. Butter a perforated tin sheet, 
set the loaf upon it, and set to cook in 
a rather slow oven. Bake one hour 
and a half, basting often with butter 
melted in hot water. Serve on a hot 
platter. Garnish with slices of orange 
and parsley. Serve the sauce in a 
separate dish. This will serve about 
a dozen people. 

Sauce for Nut Loaf 
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter 
in a hot omelet pan. Add a teaspoon- 
ful of chopped onion and half a sour 
apple cut in thin bits. Then add two 
rounding tablespoonfuls of flour, and 
cook to a clear brown. Add a pint of 
milk and a cup of hot water in which 
the glaze from the baking-pan has been 
melted. Stir until boiling. Then add 
the tablespoonful of chopped nut-meats, 
left for the purpose, one tablespoonful 
of lemon juice, and half a teaspoonful 
of salt. 

QuBry 1 164. — Mrs. H. A., Amherst, Mass.: 
"Recipes for rich yellow frozen pudding and 
egg coffee." 

Rich Yellow Frozen Pudding 

Scald one pint of rich milk or thin 
cream. Beat the yolks of six eggs. 
Add one cup of sugar and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and beat again. Then 
cook the ^gg mixture in the hot milk 



i6o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



to make a rich boiled custard. Let 
cool. Add a tablespoonful of vanilla 
and a cup and a half of cream. Then 
freeze as ice-cream. Have ready a 
cup and a half, or a little less, of sul- 
tana raisins and candied cherries, pine- 
apple and citron, cut in tiny pieces, 
— steeped over night in Jamaica rum 
to cover. Stir these into the frozen 
mixture, and let stand about two hours, 
packed in salt and crushed ice. Use 
one measure of salt to three of ice. 
Serve, turned from the mould, with 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, 
or a rich sauce, thoroughly chilled. 

Sauce for Frozen Pudding 
Beat the yolks of three eggs and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of mace or 
a grating of nutmeg until light and 
thick. Gradually beat in half a cup 
of sugar. Then cook and stir over 
hot water until slightly thickened. 
Then cut and fold in the whites of three 
eggs, beaten dry, letting the mixture 
stand over hot water, meanwhile, to 
set the egg. When the mixture is 
cold, add from one-fourth to one-half 
a cup of Jamaica rum and one cup of 
thick cream, beaten stiff. Serve very 
cold, or pack in equal measures of salt 
and crushed ice, and serve half frozen. 

Egg Coffee 
The white of one egg will clear coffee 
in which about eight level tablespoon- 
fuls of the ground berry are used or 
four cups of coffee. Use less white of 
egg when less coffee is required. Take 
the white of egg, the crushed shell also, 
the ground coffee, and a tablespoonful 
of cold water for each tablespoonful of 
coffee. Mix these together thoroughly. 
Let stand three or four minutes. Then 
pour on fresh boiling water, and let 
boil five minutes after boiling begins. 
Pour a little cold water, one -fourth to 
one -half a cup, down the spout, and 
set the pot where the coffee will keep 
hot without boiling. Serv^e after ten 
ininutes. 



Query 1165.— K. O., Pittsburg, Pa.: "Rec- 
ipes for 'terrapin d, la Maryland' and lady 
fingers." 

Terrapin a la Maryland 

Cook the terrapin in boiling salted 
water about three-fourths of an hour, 
and let cool in the liquid. When cold, 
remove the lower shell and separate 
the terrapin into pieces at the joints. 
Add the eggs, if any, and the liver cut 
in slices. Put the bits of terrapin into 
a saucepan. Add liquid — ^half sherry 
wine and half liquid in which the 
terrapin were cooked — to cover. Set 
over the fire, and let simmer to reduce 
a little. Then add to each pint one- 
fourth a cup of creamed butter, mixed 
with] the cooked and sifted yolks of 
three eggs. 

Lady Fingers 
For recipe of lady fingers see "Sea- 
sonable Recipes," page 146. 



Query 1166. — M. I. O'B., Winona, Minn.: 
"Recipe for hashed brown potatoes." 

Hashed Brown Potatoes 
Chop six cold, boiled potatoes fine, 
adding salt and pepper. Put one- 
fourth a cup of fat into the frying-pan, 
and, when hot, put in the prepared 
potatoes, and heat quickly. Press the 
potato into one side of the pan, and let 
brown on the bottom. When well 
browned, drain off superfluous fat, if 
there be any, and turn the potatoes 
onto a dish, the browned side up. 
Bacon fat or fat tried out from salt 
pork is usually preferred for this dish. 



Query 1167. — N. C, Logansport, Ind.: 
"Recipe for Boston brown bread steanled 
with raisins in it." 

Boston Brown Bread with Raisins 

Pass through a sieve together one 

cup, each, of rye -meal, yellow corn-meal, 

and white or entire-wheat flour, one 

teaspoonful of salt, and two level tea- 



Queries and Answers 



i6i 



spoonfuls of soda. Add two-thirds a 
cup of molasses and two cups of thick 
sour milk (part sour cream makes a 
particularly fine loaf of bread). Mix 
thoroughly, and turn into buttered 
moulds. Add a cup of raisins here 
and there, as the mixture is put into 
the moulds. Steam three hours. This 
may be steamed in a two-quart melon 
mould. Two brick ice-cream moulds, 
quart-size, give loaves of good size for 
slicing without waste. Pound-size bak- 
ing-powder boxes, three in number, are 
also suitable. 

Query ii68. — Subscriber, Norwich, Conn.: 
"At what temperature should bread, angel 
cake, sponge cake, and macaroons be baked?" 

Temperature for Baking Bread, etc. 

In considering the temperature at 
which various articles should be baked, 
it is- impossible to make hard-and-fast 
rules, applicable to all ovens and all 
kinds of fuel. Oven thermometers 
or "heat indicators," set in the door 
of modem cook- stoves, are not identical. 
Heat indicators are of great assistance 
in deciding the temperature suitable 
for different articles of food, but each 
must learn to use her special indicator. 
Experience is the prime essential to 
good baking. With an oven ther- 
mometer the temperature can be ad- 
justed according to the size of the loaf. 
A loaf of French bread calls for higher 
temperature than the larger, square, 
household loaf. The French bread 
might be baked in thirty minutes in an 
oven at 360° Fahr., while the household 
loaf, put into an oven at 300° Fahr., 
after ten minutes reducing the tempera- 
ture to 260° Fahr., might be baked 
in sixty minutes. Angel and sponge 
cakes might be put into an oven at 
about 250° Fahr., and be baked with 
increasing beat. Many cooks think 
an angel cake should be put into an 
oven at a slightly higher temperature 
than that demanded for a sponge cake 
;nade with both the whites and volks 



of the eggs. Macaroons require about 
the same temperature as sponge cake. 



Query 1169. — Mrs C: D., Los Angeles, 
Cal.: "How may cream of tomato soup be 
kept from curdling? Recipes for macaroni 
croquettes and drop cookies with sour cream." 

Curdling of Tomato Soup 
Have the white sauce, used as the 
foundation of this soup, in one dish 
and . the tomato puree in another, 
both very hot. Mix, and send to the 
table at once without further cooking. 

Macaroni Croquettes 
Let half a cup of macaroni, broken 
in half-inch lengths, cook in rapidly 
boiling salted water until tender. Drain 
and rinse in cold water, then dram 
again and dry by spreading on a cloth. 
Make a sauce of two tablespoonfuls 
of melted butter, three tablespoonfuls 
of flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt, a dash of paprika, and a cup of 
milk, cream, well-seasoned and flavored 
stock, or tomato puree. Add the mac- 
aroni, tw^o tablespoonfuls of grated 
cheese (Parmesan preferably), and, if 
convenient, one-fourth a cup of cooked 
tongue or ham, chopped fine. Mix 
thoroughly, and turn into a shallow 
pan. When cold, roll into such shapes 
as desired. Roll these in grated cheese, 
cover with a beaten ^gg diluted with a 
tablespoonful of cold w^ater or milk, 
then roll in sifted bread crumbs. Fry 
m deep fat. Serve with or without 
tomato sauce. 

Drop Cookies with Sour Cream 
Cream half a cup of butter. Gradu- 
ally beat in one cup of sugar, then one 
^gg, beaten light, and half a cup of 
sour cream, mixed with one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of pulverized and sifted 
soda. Then add two and one-half 
cups of flour, sifted with three and 
one-half level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder. Mix the w^hole very thor- 
oughly : the mixture will be quite stiff. 
Drop this from a spoon onto buttered 



l62 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



tins, shaping each portion into a smooth 
round. Dredge with granulated sugar, 
and bake in a moderate oven. 



Query i 170.— Mrs. T. B. W., St. Paul, 
Minn.: "How thick should an English mutton 
chop be cut? Should the bone be Frenched 
and served with a paper frill? What kind 
of potatoes should be served with the dish? 
When should cranberry sherbet be served, 
with roast turkey instead of cranberry sauce 
or between the roast and game courses? Is 
it proper to serve mint ice in the place of 
mint sauce with hot roast lamb ? Is it proper 
to serve currant jelly with broiled chicken 
and cold lamb ? How are the best club sand- 
wiches made?" 

Regarding Mutton Chops 
English mutton chops do not con- 
tain a rib bone. They correspond to 
the small sirloin steaks in beef that 
have a piece of tenderloin on one side, 
above this a strip of less tender meat, 
edged with a ridge of fat, and a tough 
flank end. They are usually cut from 
an inch to an inch and a half thick. 
Potatoes in any style rather than plain 
boiled are served with chops. Pos- 
sibly French fried or Saratoga potatoes 
are the favorite styles to serve with 
broiled chops in this country. To- 
mato sauce accompanies a dish of 
breaded-and-fried chops. This com- 
bination, though not originating with 
Charles Dickens, is repeatedly referred 
to by this author. 

Rib chops, having the bone shortened 
and scraped clean of flesh, are known 
as French or Frenched chops. After 
cooking, a paper frill is slipped over the 
end of the bone. By this means the 
chop may be eaten from the fingers 
without soiling them. 

Place of Cranberry Ice and Mint 
Sherbet in Menu 
We think cranberry ice and mint 
sherbet should be served with roast 
turkey and lamb, respectively, rather 
than between the courses. We see no 
reason why currant jelly should not be 
served with broiled chicken and cold 



lamb, imless it be that these are accom- 
panied by a salad, as tomato with 
mayonnaise dressing, when the jelly 
might seem a superfluity. 

Club Sandwiches 
Cut bread into triangular pieces, 
toast, then spread with mayonnaise 
dressing. Cover half of the slices 
with crisp heart leaves of lettuce, and 
on these lay thin slices of cold chicken 
breast. Cover these with fresh-broiled 
breakfast bacon. Over the bacon lay a 
second lettuce leaf, and cover the whole 
with the second slice of toast spread 
with mayonnaise. Garnish each end 
with a heart leaf of lettuce containing 
a spoonful of mayonnaise. 



Query i 171.— Mrs. R. H. W., Charles City, 
la.: "Recipes for pie crust, piccalilli, and 
raisin filling for pie in which cream is used, 
also for Graham gems and wheat-flour pan- 
cakes in which buttermilk and eggs are used." 

Pie Crust 
Pass through a sieve together three 
cups of sifted pastry flour, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful 
of baking-powder. With a knife or 
the tips of the fingers work into this 
mixture two-thirds a cup of shortenmg. 
When each little particle of fat is coated 
with flour, add gradually, mixing 
meanwhile with a knife, enough cold 
water to make a paste that sticks to- 
gether without adhering to the knife or 
bowl. Roll the paste, with the knife, 
in the bowl to take up all the particles 
of dough or flour, then turn onto a 
board lightly dredged with flour. Roll 
it in the flour, then pat it with the 
rolling-pin into a rectangular shape, 
and roll out into a long strip. Roll 
this up tight like a jelly roll, and use, 
when desired. This will make two 
pies. For a more flaky pastry prepare 
as above, using but half a cup of short- 
ening, then, when the paste is rolled 
out into the rectangular sheet, spread it 
with one-fourth or one-half a cup of 
shortening, then fold it three times, 



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WITHOUT THIS 



sisnature 






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5LANK5, 

imitationI 

CORN: 

FLAnES 



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Watch the Imitators. 

Sanitas Toasted Com Flakes is the greatest cereal 
success ever produced in America. The delicious 
flavor of the new food has created an unprec- 
edented demand. We are working night and 
day trying to fill all orders — -but thousands of gro- 
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Sanitas Toasted Corn Flakes 

Can be Imitated in Name only 

The delicious flavor of the Real Toasted Corn 
Flakes can not be reproduced. Remember the 
name Sanitas Toasted Com Flakes and keep the 
package in mind. If someone does sell you a substitute, 
don't judge the original by the imitation. Sanitas 
Toasted Com Flakes has a flavor of its own. 

Battle Creek Toasted Corn Flake Company 
Battle Creek, Michigan 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

ix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



or roll it up, pat, and roll out again, and 
it is ready for use. 

Piccalilli 

Chop fine half a peck of green 
tomatoes, one head of cabbage, fifteen 
white onions, and ten large green cucum- 
bers. Put a layer of the vegetables 
into a porcelain dish, and sprinkle with 
salt. Continue the layers of vegetables 
and salt until all are used. Let stand 
over night, then drain, discarding the 
liquid, wringing the vegetables in a 
cloth, if necessary. Heat three quarts 
of cider vinegar, three pounds of brown 
sugar, one-fourth a cup of tumeric 
(the tum:ri_ may be omitted), one- 
fourth a cup of black pepper seed, one 
ounce of celery seed, three-fourths a 
pound of mustard seed, and three red 
peppers, chopped fine, to the boiling- 
point, and pour over the vegetables. 
Let stand over night. Then drain the 
liquid from the vegetables, reheat and 
again pour over the vegetables. Re- 
peat this process the third morning. 
Then, when the mixture becomes cold, 
stir into it one-fourth a pound of 
ground mustard and one teaspoonful 
of curry powder, mixed with one 
cup of olive oil and one quart of vinegar. 

Raisin Filling with Cream 
Chop fine one cup and a half of seeded 
raisins. Beat the yolks of three eggs. 
Beat again with one-third a cup of 
sugar, one -fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt, and, if desired, the grated rind and 
juice of a lemon. Add the prepared 
raisins, mix well, then stir in one cup 
of cream, and turn the mixture into the 
prepared crust. Cover w^ith a second 
crust. Bake about thirty-five minutes 
in a rather moderate oven. 

Graham Gems with Buttermilk and 

Eggs 

Sift together one cup, each, of 

Graham and white flour, three level 

teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, half a 

teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth a cup 



of sugar. Beat one egg, add one cup 
and a fourth of buttermilk mixed with 
a scant half-teaspoonful of soda, and 



The Way Out 

Change of Food brought Success and Happiness 

An ambitious but delicate girl, after 
failing to go through school on account 
of nervousness and hysteria, found in 
Grape-nuts the only thing that seemed 
to build her up and furnish her the peace 
of health. 

"From infancy," she says, "I have 
not been strong. Being ambitious to 
learn at any cost, I finally got to the 
High School, but soon had to abandon 
my studies on account of nerv^ous 
prostration and hysteria. 

"My food did not agree with me. 
I grew thin and despondent. I could 
not enjoy the simplest social affair, for 
I suffered constantly from nervousness 
in spite of ah sorts of medicines. 

"This wretched condition continued 
until I was twenty-five, when I became 
interested in the letters of those who 
had cases like mme and who were being 
cured by eating Grape-nuts. 

' T had little faith, but procured a box, 
and after the first dish I experienced a 
peculiar satisfied feeling that I had 
never gained from any ordinary food. 
I slept and rested better that night, 
and in a few days began to grow 
stronger. 

' ' I had a new feeling of peace and 
restfulness. In a few wrecks, to my 
great joy, the headaches and nervous- 
ness left me, and life became bright and 
hopeful. I resumed my studies, and 
later taught ten months with ease, — 
of course using Grape-nuts every day. 
It is now four years since I began to use 
Grape-nuts. I am the mistress of a 
happy home, and the old w^eakness has 
never returned." Name given by 
Postum Company, Battle Creek, Mich. 

"There's a reason." Read the little 
book, ' 'The Road to Wellville," in pack- 
ages. 



Advertisements 



Wlde-Open Kitchens 

Man has not devised a more perfectly appointed, 
a more cleanly and sanitary establishment than that 
in which Heinz Foods are prepared. 

Sunlight everywhere; spotless floors and walls; 
tables snowy white; shining utensils — all reflected 
in the excellence of 



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VARlETrES 




I 



From beginning to end the work of preparing 
the Heinz 57 Varieties is clean by system, carried 
out with conscientious care by the neatly-uniformed 
•'Girl in the White Cap." 

furthermore, every Heinz Product is pure in the 
strictest sense of the word. They are made not only 
to conform to but actually exceed the requirements 
of all State and National Pure Food Laws. 

For a real treat — and an inviting 
example of Heinz goodness — get 
from your grocer a convenient- 
sized crock or tin of 

HEIN2 

Apple Butter 

Tart and piquant — not as sweet 
as preserves- Delicious on bread 
for the youngster; a luncheon 
appetizer for the grown-up folks. 
It is made of choice, selected 
apples ; contains none but spices 
of our own grinding and pure 
granulated sugar. 

Let us send you a copy of our booklet, 
" The Spice of Life." 

H. J. HEINZ COMPANY, 

New York Pittsburgh Chicago London 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



stir into the dry ingredients with 
three tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 
Bake in a hot, well-buttered muffin- 
pan about twenty-five minutes. The 
recipe is for thick sour buttermilk. If 
the buttermilk be very thick, a few 
spoonfuls of sweet milk may be needed, 
to make the dough of the right con- 
sistency. If the buttermilk be sweet, 
omit the soda, and use four rather than 
three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Wheat Pancakes with Buttermilk 
and Eggs 
Sift together two and one-half cups 
of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 
Stir half a teaspoonful of sifted soda 
into two cups of thick sour buttermilk. 
Beat the yolks of two eggs. Add the 
prepared buttermilk, and stir into the 
flour mixture. Lastly, add the whites 
of the eggs, beaten dry. When well 
mixed, bake a cake, and, if it seems 
too thick, thin the batter with a little 
sweet milk. 

Query 1172. — E. G., Denver, Col.: "Rec- 
ipes for crystallized cherries and pineapple, 
macaroons and crescents from almond paste, 
and Banbury cakes." 

Crystallized Cherries and Pineapple 
Remove stones from cherries and 
the outer waste portion from the pine- 
apple. Cut the pineapple in slices, 
and stamp out the core with a small 
round cutter. Cook the fruit in boiling 
water to cover until tender. Weigh 
the fruit before cooking; make a syrup 
of an equal weight of sugar and a cup 
of the fruit liquid (water in which it 
was cooked) for each pound of sugar. 
Let the fruit stand over night in the 
syrup, then pour off the syrup, cook to 
the thread stage, and pour it again 
over the fruit. Bring the whole to the 
boihng-point, and set aside. Drain 
off the syrup on succeeding days, and 
repeat the boihng, etc., until the syrup, 
after the fruit is added and the whole 
is heated, is at the thread stage, then 



Family Runt 

Kansas Man says Coffee made him that 

''Coffee has been used in our family 
of eleven — father, mother, five sons, 
and four daughters — for thirty years. 
I am the eldest of the boys, and have 
always been considered the runt of the 
family and a coffee toper. 

"I continued to drink it for years 
until I grew to be a man, and then I 
found I had stomach trouble, nervous 
headaches, poor circulation, was unable 
to do a full day's work, took medicine 
for this, that, and the other thing with- 
out the least benefit. In fact, I only 
weighed 116 when I was 28. 

"Then I changed from coffee to Pos- 
tum, being the first one in our family 
to do so. I noticed, as did the rest of 
the family, that I was surely gaining 
strength and flesh. Shortly after I was 
visiting my cousin, who said: 'You look 
so much better. You're getting fat.' 

"At breakfast his wife passed me a 
large-sized cup of coffee, as she knew I 
was always stich a coffee-drinker, but 
I said, 'No, thank you.' 

"'What!' said my cousin, 'you quit 
coffee ? What do you drink ? ' 

"'Postum,' I said, 'or water, and I 
am well.' They did not know what 
Postum was, but my cousin had stom- 
ach trouble, and could not sleep at night 
from dnnkmg a large cup of coffee three 
times a day. He was glad to learn 
about Postum, but said he never knew^ 
coffee hurt any one. 

"After understanding my condition 
and how I got well, he knew what to do 
for himself. He discovered that coffee 
was the cause of his trouble, as he never 
used tobacco or an}i:hing else of the 
kind. You should now see the change 
in him. We both believe that, if 
persons who suffer from coffee-drinking 
would stop and use Postum, they could 
build back to health and happiness." 
Name given by Postum Company, Battle 
Creek, Mich. Read the little book, 
"The Road to WellviUe," in packages. 
"There's a reason." 



xu 



Advertisements 



The 

Guiding Mark 

to 



Trade AWk 



Necco 

nSweets 



Good 
Confectionery 

is the seal of Necco Sweets. It's the distinguishing mark for good con- 
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assurance that it is the best that can be bought. For example try a box of 



.ol^^e.cN^'^^^ 



Delicate in flavor, rich in quality — by far the most delightful chocolates you ever 
tasted. To be sure of candies that are thoroughly pure and wholesome, always 
look for the seal of Necco Sweets. For sale where the best confectionery is sold. 

NKW ENGLAND CONFECTIONBRY CO., BoBton, Mass. 



RAE'S LUCCA OIL 



IS JUST 

"The Perfection of 
OUve Oil." 

Made from sound, ripe olives grown in Tuscany, " the 
Garden of Italy." Its ABSOLUTE PURITY is 
vouched for by United States government analysis. 




SOLD IN BOTTLES AND TINS OF VARIOUS SIZES. 



S. RAE & CO., 

LEGHORN. TUSCANY, ITALY 



When you wiite advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



stir until the syrup sugars on the fruit. 
For candied fruit, store the fruit after 
it has absorbed all the syrup possible, 
but do not stir it in the syrup. 

Macaroons and Crescents from Al- 
mond Paste 
With the hand beat half a pound of 
almond paste and the white of an egg 
to a perfectly smooth mass. Then 
gradually beat in half a pound (one 
and three-fourths cups) of confec- 
tioner's sugar, and, when the mixture 
is well beaten, beat in, one at a time, 
the unbeaten whites of two eggs. 
Beat until the mixture is very light. 
Shape the mixture into small rounds 
on two thicknesses of paper laid on a 
baking-sheet. Shape with a spoon or 
plain tube and pastry bag. Bake in 
a moderate oven to a light brown color. 
It will take about ten minutes. For 
variety, before baking press a candied 
cherry or bit of citron into the top of 
each, or brush over the surface with 
cold water, and dredge with granulated 
sugar. For crescents take about two 
ounces of paste, and beat gradually into 
it about half of the preparation made 
for macaroons. Take a tablespoonful 
of this firmer mixture, and roll under 
the hand on a board dredged with 
powdered sugar to form crescents, 
then roll these in blanched almonds, 
chopped or sliced fine. Bake as 
macaroons. Remove from the paper 
with a spatula as soon as baked. 

Banbury Cakesj 

The following is an English recipe; 
the mince used for filling, called Ban- 
bury meat, may be kept covered in 
a jar and used when needed. Beat half 
a pound of butter to a cream. Add 
half a pound of lemon and orange peel, 
cut fine, one pound of currants, half an 
ounce of cinnamon, and two and a half 
ounces of allspice. Cut rich pastry 
into rounds or squares. Put a layer of 
Banbury meat on half the pieces of 
pastry. Brush the edges with cold 
water, and cover with the other pieces 



of pastry, pressing the edges close to- 
gether. Brush over the edge and top 
with frothed white of egg, and dredge 
with granulated sugar. Bake about 
fifteen minutes. Serve hot or cold. 
We recommend baking the. pastry in 
the form of tart shells, then, when ready 
to serve, reheat the shells, and fill them 
with the Banbury mixture, cooked in a 
double boiler. The following mixture 
is one we have used many times. Chop 
fine one cup of stoned raisins and one- 
fourth a cup of citron or candied 
cherries. Add the grated rind and juice 
of a fresh lemon, one cup of sugar, and 
one egg, slightly beaten. Cook the 
mixture over hot water until slightly 
thickened. Use hot or cold. 



Query 1173. — Mrs. C. H. A., Oaxaca, Mex.: 
"We have many mangoes growing here, and 
I should like to utilize them in making Indian 
mango chutney. Can you send recipe? Can 
you tell me why the Havana guava jelly is 
dark in color and that which I make is light, 
and does not have the firm consistency that 
the Cuban jelly has? " 

Chutney (English Recipe) 
Pound in a mortar four ounces of 
salt, four ounces of raisins, stoned and 
chopped, three ounces of onions and 
three ounces of garlic, both chopped 
fine, two ounces of well-crushed mustard 
seed, and half an ounce of cayenne pep- 
per, or its equivalent in Chili peppers, 
chopped fine. Pare and core enough 
tart apples to make fourteen ounces 
(use mangoes in place of the apples), 



8?J. 



destroy dla«ase fferms and fonl (rinses, the ws8t«-plpeB. 
kB, oloaeta, oellars. and every suspected 8i>ot snoold 
regrularly poiifled wltli 



€ lMorides 



Dis 



Sold in quart bottles only, by draggists and high-class grocerto 
An illustrated booklet with valuable sanitary hints mailed free. 
AddMss HKNRY B. PLATT, 4^ Clifi Street, New York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiv 



Advertisements 



BAKERS 

EXTRACTS 



IF YOU COULD 

take rich, ripe fruits and 

any process dispose of th 

fibrous parts, retaining th( 

juices in such a way that they would 

KEEP INDEFINITELY and HOLD 

THEIR FULL STRENGTH, you would 

then have extracts like Baker's. You can't do 

this, but we can, and your grocer can supply you. 

Comply with all Food Laws. 



HONEST 






Ice-cream 
Always 

in 
Season 
Junket 
Tablets 

Make 
tKe Best 

We mail postpaid ten tablets to make ten 
quarts for ten cents, and give, you the charm- 
ing brochure, *' Junket Dainties," free. 

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 
Box 2507. Little Falls, N.Y. 




fe.When you write advertisers, please|rQention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. ^i'MMMMM 

XV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



simmer these with two cups of strong 
vinegar and four ounces of sugar. 
When the apple mixture is cold and 
beaten smooth, gradually beat in the 
first mixture, and store in bottles. 
This improves with age. 

Color of Havana Guava Jelly 
Most fruit jelly is made dark and 
firm by cooking. Possibly longer cook- 
ing would make your jelly as dark and 
firm as the Havana jelly. Guava 
jelly is no exception to the rule, and 
there is such a thing as having a jelly too 
firm and too dark-colored. The best 
jellies just hold their shape, nothing 
more. 



Query 1174. — Madame G. K. Larin, Mon- 
treal, Can.: "Recipes for York ham, sauce 
madere, cream celery sauce, and cream oyster 
sauce." 

York Ham, Sauce Madere 

Soak the ham in several waters. 
vScrub and cut off discolored parts, and 
put into a large pot with plenty of 
cold water. Add an onion, a carrot, and 
part of a bay leaf. Let the water heat 
very slowly to the boiling-point, skim, 
then let cook at the simmering-point 
until the ham is nearly tender. Take 
it up, drain carefully, and remove the 
skin, then set it in a deep baking-dish, 
the fat side uppermost. Have ready, 
made very hot, a bottle of Madeira 
wine, a pint of rich, high-seasoned stock, 
either white or brown, and half a cup of 



sugar. Pour the Hquid mixture over 
the ham, and set the dish into the oven. 
Let it cook, basting every ten minutes, 
until the liquid is reduced and the ham 
is glazed a rich brown color. Add the 
liquid in the pan to a brown sauce, 
and serve it with the ham. Buttered 
onions should be served also. 

Cream Celery Sauce 
Prepare the usual white sauce, cutting 
down the two tablespoonfuls of flour 
to one tablespoonful and a half, and 
use cream as the liquid. Finish with 
half a cup of cooked celery shces and a 
tablespoonful of butter 

Cream Oyster Sauce 
Prepare as above, except finish with 
half a cup of oysters brought quickly 
to the boiling-point and drained, and a 
teaspoonful of lemon juice. 

Note. — A recipe for "Lady Baltimore cake" 
is desired. 



A Course in Domestic Science 
in your own Home 

The twelve courses of the American 
School of Home Economics may be 
taken at any time during the year 
through correspondence. Individual 
or class work. The illustrated 66-page 
Bulletin of the School on "The Pro- 
fession of Home-making" will be mailed 
to any one on receipt of a post-card 
addressed A. S. H. E., 3328^ Armour 
Avenue, Chicago, 111. 



CORSET 
CLASP 




EVERY PAIR 
WARRANTED 



CLASP TOP STYLE 

For attaching to lower edge 
of Corset. 



Quickly adjusted or removed. 



HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

OF YOUR DEALER 

Or sample pair on receipt of price. 

Mercerized, 25 cents. Silk, 50 cents. 



THE NAMES^=- 
is stamped on 
every loop 



GEORGE FROST COfViPANY, Makers, Boston, Mass., U.S.A. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 



Lea & Perrins' Sauce 



THE ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE 

is invaluable to the fastidious 
cook. It adds zest to her Gravies 
and spice to her Salads, and im- 
proves the flavor of Fish, Game 
and Soups. Its rare rich flavor 
makes Lea & Perrins' Sauce 
the most useful of all seasonings. 



y^ 



Beware of 
Imitations 



John Duncan's Sons,Agts.,N.Y 



A Kftianiaz 



\i\ 



^^^^i 



w 



Direct to "Vbu 




Kalamazoos are fuel savers. 




Ove7t 
Thermometer 
All Kalamazoo 
Cook Stoves and 
Ranges are equip- 
ped with our Pat- 
ented Oven Ther- 
mometer, which 
makes baking 
and roasting easy. 



They last a lifetime. 

Economical in all respects. 

They are low in price and high in quality. 

They are easily operated and quickly set 
up and made ready for business. 

Buy from the actual manufacturer. 

Your money returned if everything is not exactly as repre- 
sented. 

You keep in your own pocket the dealers' and jobbers* 
profits when you buy a Kalamazoo. 

We Pay the Freight. 

We want to prove to you that you cannot buy, at any price, 
abetter stove or range than a Kalamazoo: there is none better 
made anywhere in the world. 

We want to show you how you can save 20% to 40% in buy- 
ing stoves and ranges direct from our factory at factory 
prices. Will you give us the chance ? 

Do you think ^5 or ;$io or ^40 worth saving? If so, you 
had better just 

Send Postal for Catalogue No. 389 ('""t/a ^£1"^" ) 

Examine our complete line of stoves and ranges for all kinds of fuel ; note their high quality, compare our prices with others, and 
then decide to buy from actual manufacturers and save all middlemen's profits. All stoves blacked, polished, and ready for immediate 
use when shipped. Write now. 

KALAMAZOO STOVE COMPANY, Manufacturers, Kalamazoo, Mich, 

When you write advertisers, please raention The Boston Cooking-School Magazinbu., 

xvii 



The Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Peter Cooper's 

CLARIFIED 

GELATINE 

For Wine Jellies 
Blanc-mange 
Charlotte Russe 

PURE AND WHOLESOME 

Our Pulverized Gelatine is the 
most convenient for family use. 
Dissolves in a few minutes. 



An 8-cent package 
makes two quarts* 
Cheapest and best. 

For sale by all grocers. 

S. S. PIERCE COMPANY, Boston, Mass. 

cTVlanufacturers' cAgents. 










OUR STORE 



is recognized throughout the 
country as the leading store 
of its kind. All goods we sell 
we guarantee to be of the 
best. 

We make a specialty of 
goods used and recommend- 
ed by Cooking Schools, If 
you want novelties for cook- 
ing consult our catalogues. 

Moulds, 
Vegetable Cutters, 

in all sorts of sizes and 
shapes, and all kinds of uten- 
sils to use for plain or fancy 
cooking. 

An immense variety of im- 
ported and domestic novel- 
ties. 

F. A. Walker & Co., 

83-85 Cornhill, Boston, Mass. 

Scollay Sq. Subway Station. 

Catalogue, 3,000 illustrations, 

by mail, 20 cents. 






Book R 



eviews 

Cassbll's New Dictionary o^ Cook- 

KRY. Large 8vo. Price $5. New 

York: Cassell & Co. 

The practical part of this work is 
preceded by a complete treatise on the 
principles of cookery. This is an 
important and valuable feature of 
the book. The alphabet of the cook- 
ing art is comprised therein. Special 
notice is given here to marketing, the 
care and management of kitchen ranges, 
cooking by gas, table ser\dce and decora- 
tion, the storeroom and larder, in- 
valid cookery, chafing-dish cookery, 
etc. All these pages are replete with 
timely information and useful sug- 
gestion. Cooking is regarded as a 
very essential branch of practical edu- 
cation. 

The body of the book contains about 
ten thousand recipes with numerous 
illustrations and twenty colored plates. 
The recipes are arranged in dictionary 
form. Cross references have been in- 
serted, to the end that every article may 
be found without difficulty and at a 
moment's notice. 

The aim of the publishers, it is 
claimed, has been to make this the 
most complete and comprehensive work 
on household cookery ever published, and 
it is for the public to say how far they 
have succeeded in this object. Of 
course, the recipes are not new: many 
of them are old, English and Conti- 
nental in nature; but certainly cook, 
housekeeper, and student will find this 
volume a storehouse of useful in- 
formation, a manual of ready use and 
reference. 



The Hay-box Cook Book. By Sarah 
Pamelia Redfield, 819 Chase Avenue, 
Rogers Park, Chicago, 111. Price 50 
cents. 

The author says: "The principle un- 
derlying Hay-box cooking is simply 
to retain the heat in the kettle, that 
has already been brought to the boil- 
ing-point, on range or gas stove. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-Sciiopl Maga^in^, 

^yiii 



Advertisements 



We furnisK 
tKese spoons 
^vitKout cost 



Except the expense of 
mailinfii and packing 





For Soups, Sauces, 

Savory Sundries 

and Beef Tea 

Careful analysis by food experts establishes 
CUDAHY'S REX BEEF EXTRACT 

As absolutely pure 
Available always for instant use. 



They are A-1 
standard grade, 
superbly fashioned, 
French gray (sterling) 
finish, free from advertising, and manufactured 
exclusively for us by the celebrated silversmiths, 
"Wm. A. Rogers, Ltd., whose name they bear. 



How to ^et the spoons 

For each spoon desired send a metal 
cap from a 2-oz. or larger-sized jar of 
Rex Beef Extract or Cudahy's 
Nutritive Beef Extract and ten cents in 
silver or stamps to cover packing and 
mailing expense. (A set of six spoons 
requires six metal caps and 60 cents.) 

State plainly whether you w^ant Tea- 
spoons or Bouillon Spoons. 

If you cannot obtain it, send us the 
name of your dealer and 50 cents in 
stamps and we will send you the regular 
size, a 2-oz. jar of Rex Beef Ex- 
tract; or 60 cents and we v/ill mail you 
spoon and" jar. 

Cudahy's Rex Beef Ex- 
tract is sold by grocers and druggists. 

CO. 



THE CUDAHY PACKING 

Beef Extract Department 
8 33d Street SOUTH OMAHA 



NEB. 



Send 2-cent stamp for "From Ranch to Table," 
an illustrated cook book. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Ifii Humphrey 
Oval?t?ve 



Two Stoves 
a ^iant heater 
and a 




is guaranteed to be the 
most economical gas 

heating stove made, and 

the only one th at forces 

the heat out along: the 

floor where most 

needed. 

$2.50 



AT ALL DEALERS 

or express prepaid from 

us. Made of copper 

plated, die-pressed steel, 

all heavily, 

beautifully 

nickeled. 

10 Days 
Trial 

Order a stove to- 
day. If for any 
reason you are 
dissatisfied with your purchase, return it at our expense 
and get your money back. Catalogs free. Write today. 

HUMPHREY CO. — Dept. C.S, 10^ KALAMAZOO, MICH. 

Largest Manufacturers Instantaneous Water Heaters in the 
World. Write for Water Heater Catalog. 



CALORIC FIRELESS COOK-STOVE 



The saving Quickly pays 
for the etove. 




THE NEW WAY 

Saves seventy-five per cent, in fuel. 

Economy of time, labor, and energy. 

Better results with less expense. 

All kinds of cooking,— boiled and roasted 

meats, poultry, game, sauces, fish, soups, 

vegetables, cereals, fruits, preserves, Boston 

brown oread, puddings, and the like. 

Simple to use, no expense to maintain. 

Results guaranteed as claimed, or money 

returned after fifteen days' trial. 

Illustrated booklet, showing what wecookand 



CAIORIC FIRELESS COOK-STOVE CO. 

85 PE\RL STREET GRAND RAPIDS, MICH 



"One can get a box from the grocer 
for five cents — one about three or four 
inches larger in every direction than 
the kettle to be used. 

"Line box with several thicknesses 
of newspaper or asbestos. 

"Use a pot without a handle as 
easier to pack. Put about three inches 
of hay in bottom of box, set in the 
kettle you intend to use, and pack hay 
around it to the top of kettle. Take 
out the kettle, put in whatever is to 
be cooked, let it come to a boil on 
range or gas stove, and boil hard a 
few minutes. Quickly clap on cover 
and place in Hay-box. Cover tight 
with muslin or cheese-cloth bag filled 
with hay — go to the club, go shopping, 
read, write, entertain your friends, 
for the dinner needs no further atten- 
tion on your part." 

The book contains simple and valu- 
able recipes with directions for cook- 
ing in the hay-box. The results are 
said to be better than those obtained 
on the ordinary range. No article is 
likely to be over-cooked. 



Professor C. Lloyd Morgan, in his 
recent book, "The Interpretation of 
Nature," quotes from Professor Sully 
the story of a little girl who stole 
softly into the dining-room, not notic- 
ing that her elder sister was standing 
at the book-shelf in a dark corner of 
the room. The little girl took a bunch 
of grapes from the fruit-dish, and tip- 
toed toward the door; but, before she 
reached it, she paused, then returned 
to the table, replaced the grapes, and 
left the room empty-handed, murmuring 
softly, ' 'Sold again, Satan ! " 



A rather critical old lady once said to 
Crawford, "Have you ever written any- 
thing, Mr. Crawford, that will live after 
you are gone ? " " Madame , ' ' Crawford 
replied pohtely, "what I am trying to 
do is to write something that will 
enable me to live while I am here." — 
Public Opinion. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XX 



Advertisements 



A New- 
Range Ide& 

We have produced a range that we believe meets modem 
demands better than any heretofore made. We call it the 

PALACE 

/retwfbrd 

^^^^^^ The old End Hearth — so often in 
way — is omitted. There is more area 
the top of the range, an end shelf at the left being added. The 

ashes fall into a hod far below the grate, 
which makes their removal easier and 
more cleanly, and makes the grate laSt 
longer. The coal-hod is alongside the 
ash-hod, — out of the way. 



the 



m 




All the other 
famous Crawford 
improvements are 
present : 



Single Damper (patented), one movement 
regulates fire and oven; Patented Dock- 
ash Grate, saves labor and fuel ; Perfected 
Oven, surest, quicker, easier controlled; Re- 
liable Oven Indicator, can't get out of 
order; Removable Nickel Rails, etc. SenffoTTnustrated Circular 

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO., 31-33 Union street. Boston. Mass. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Sawyer's 



60 YEARS 

THE PEOPLE'S 

CHOICE 




CRYSTAI* 

Blue 

For the 

Laundry 

DOUBLE 
STRENGTH 

Sold in 

Sprinkling 
Top Bottles 

Sawyer's Blue 

gives a beautiful 

tint and restores the 

color to linen, laces 

and goods that are 

worn and fadedo 

It goes twice as tar 
as other Blues 



Sawyer's 



Be Sure You Get 
From Your Dealer 




Perfume Therapeutics 

(Continued jrom page 135.) 
an action upon the heart that one af- 
fected with disease of that organ should 
beware of inhaling this perfume for any 
length of time. 

While all parts of the plant of 
the lily-of-the-valley possess medicinal 
value, its virtues reside principally in 
the flower. Preparations of it taken 
internally have a marked action upon 
the heart and lungs. It should be re- 
membered in this connection, however, 
that the perfume of lily-of-the-valley 
is rarely made from this plant, but is 
obtained by a combination of attar of 
almonds, vanilla, and extract of tube- 
rose. The various preparations bear- 
ing the name ' 'violet " are usually made 
from attar of almonds, as the genuine 
pure essence of violet is very costly. 

The Greek cosmetic perfumers were 
the first to use oils and ointments as 
carriages for their wares. 

Oil of cloves is a household remedy 
used to destroy sensation in the nerves 
of hollow teeth when aching, and it 
quickly relieves the pain. Even that 
unsightly disease. Lupus vulgaris, yields 
to the potent qualities of oil of cloves, 
the repeated application of which is 
said to cause separation of the epi- 
thelium and retrocession of the nod- 
ules. The virtues of oil of camphor 
are known to every householder. 

Various vegetable essences have been 
shown to possess marked antiseptic 
power. Essence of cinnamon has been 
utilized by M. Lucus-Championniere, 
a celebrated French physician, as a 
surgical dressing. The therapeutic 
action of myrrh on the gums causes 
it to be kept in the home medicine 
chest. Preparations of rose are 
somewhat astringent. Rose water is 
useful in superficial burns, chapped 
lips or hands, abrasions, and minor skin 
eruptions, such as prickly heat. 

Inasmuch as superstition character- 
ized the beliefs of the times when the 
worship of flowers predominated, ludi- 
crous legends are associated with many 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-Schoot. Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 



^Yroppgd iI^> Our 
Jacipru -"Operied m 



.CN^- 



.>^t^i>^ 



t^^^l 



,>V>i^ 






'>;5^i 



i'Mi! 



C^ 



.;r<Sr"^ 



^ .-y 



The New Way 



v'i" ' 



^fe? 



v.->-,^'. 



HE old way of buying sausage 
in bulk, without knowing 
whero they were made or by 
whom, is no longer pleasing 
to people who are at all fastidious. 
This is well shown by the rapidly in- 
creasing demand for our widely known 
"Arlington Sausage," put up in pound 
packages. 

"Arlington Sausage " are made only 
from the choicest materials and under 
strictly sanitary conditions. Our sau- 
sage department is as clean and inviting 
as your own pantry. Every pound of 
"Arlington Sausage" is double-wrapped 
in germ-proof parchment paper, plainly 
marked with our name. 

This wrapping serves two purposes : 
i: identifies our sausage and prevents 
substitution by unscrupulous dealers; 
and it protects the sausage from the 



germ-laden dust which is everywhere 
present in the air in public places. It 
also prevents handling. 

Good dealers all over New England 
sell "Arlington Sausage." Your dealer 
can get them just as easily as he can 
get bulk goods. If he is unable to 
supply you, send us $1 and we will 
ship you, express paid within 500 miles 
of Boston, five one-pound packages of 
"Arlington Sausage" and a sample pail 
of Squire's Kettle-rendered Pure Leaf 
Lard. If this is more than you can 
use, some neighbor doubtless will be 
glad to take a part. 

We also make a very fine German 
Frankfort, which we put up in one- 
pound packages. You should insist 
upon getting the pork products made 
by us, as our name is a guarantee of 
purity and cleanliness. 



JOHN P. SQUIRE ^ COMPANY 

BOSTON, MASS. 

••THE PACKING-HOUSE THAT'S ALWAYS READY FOR INSPECTION" 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

xxiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



I Like Coffee 




loa^ Y dr/nk itbeeaase 
if makes me diziy&bi/fous 
& affects my nerves, so 

I DRINK 

THE BEST SUBSTITUTE 

OLD GRIST MILL 

WHEAT COFFEE 

/T TASTES GOOD A/^D 
I /S VERY HEALTHFUL 




UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 



In camp, picnic* or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
one deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
^eese. . Send for book of 4j prize receipts, 

Wa. VNDERWOOD CO.. BOSTON, MASSo 






of them. For instance, the passing 
through thorny vines at certain seasons 
of the moon was supposed to cure many 
ills. Some of these beliefs exist in 
modified forms even to-day among the 
peasantry of various countries. In 
vSussex, England, the peasant places 
tansy leaves in his shoes or eats sage 
leaves nine successive mornings, fast- 
ing, for the cure of ague. The French 
were loath to relinquish their belief in 
the power of the yellow julienne in re- 
storing the voice when lost, and even 
to-day the plant is still known among 
the peasantry as herhe au chantre. 

On our summer vacations we gather 
pine needles, and make pillows that 
soothe us to sleep. The ancients re- 
garded sleep as the grand physician and 
supreme consoler of humanity, and they 
crowned the god of sleep with wreaths 
of poppies. They represented the 
place of Somnus as a dark cave, into 
which the sunlight never penetrated, 
and at its entrance poppies grew and 
other somniferous herbs. The Dreams, 
attended by Morpheus, watched over 
his slumbers, Morpheus holding a vase 
in one hand and grasping poppies in 
the other. 

To repeat the actual part flowers and 
herbs play in medicine would be to 
give the bulk of medicinal knowledge, 
and we are led to believe that the old 
scientists who believed there is an herb 
for every ill have the truth of the mat- 
ter, after all; but, unless she is assured 
that absolute harm comes from their 
use, the dainty woman will still carry 
with her a faint odor of some sweet 
perfume. 



Keeping Cake 
You may keep your cake soft and 
fresh for a length of time that will sur- 
prise you, if after frosting you place 
two or three apples or well-scrubbed 
potatoes, or a pint fruit jar half filled 
with water, in your cake box. This is of 
great advantage with a nut or spice cake 
or a rich fruit cake, where the flavor 
"ripens" and is developed with keeping. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



XXIV 



Advertisements 




r^^^v^^H^^^^^H^V^ Is your 
^^^^^^B^^^^^^^^r bath-room^ 

bedroom, 
spare room always 
as warm and cozy as 
you would like it ? There 
need not be a cold room in the 
house if you own a PERFECTION 
Oil Heaten This is an oil heater that 
gives satisfaction wherever used. Pro- 
duces intense heat without smoke or smell 
because equipped with smokeless device 
— no trouble, no danger^ Easily carried 
around from room to room. You cannot 
turn the wick too high or too low. Easy 
and simple to care for as a lamp« The 



PERFECTION 

Oil Heater 



(Equipped with Smokeless Device) 

is an ornament to the home. It is made in two finishes — Nickel and Japan. 
Brass oil fount beautifully embossed. Holds four quarts of oil and burns nine 
hours. Do not be satisfied with anything but a PERFECTION Oil Heater. 
If you cannot get heater from your dealer, write to nearest agency for 

descriptive circular. 



The.^^/&Lamp 



is the best lamp for all-round house- 
hold use. It is a lamp of unex- 
celled light-giving power. Stand 
and oil fount brass, nickel-plated. No glass except chimney and shade. The 
safest lamp you can buy. Suitable for library, dining-room, parlor, or bed- 
room Latest improved burner. Ask for the RAYO Lamp at your dealer^s. 
If you cannot get it from your dealer, write to nearest agency. 
STANDARD OIL COMPANY 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 







A WOMAN'S INVENTION 

The"deBOUTVILLE" Half Teaspoon 

1 The latest and best invention for the exact and accurate 
measurement of a half teaspoonful of both liquids and solids. 
IT Adapted to many uses other than for measuring, of great 
value in the kitchen, in the sick-room, and with a chafing- 
dish. IT For giving medicine to persons who are unable to 
raise their heads from the pillow it is extremely convenient. 
If For a baby's spoon it has no equal, both in feeding and 
giving medicine. H There is nothing that will fill salt and 
pepper shakers so well and easily. 1[ Nothing better for 
removing the pulp from oranges and grape-fruit. If Simple, 
easy to use and easy to take care of, strong and durable. 
Solid Nickel Silver (no brass) - Price, 25c. postpaid 
Standard cA 1 Silver Plate - - Price, 50c. postpaid 
Send for one to-day, and be pleased 363 days in the year . 

THE De BOUTVILLE COMPANY 
P.O. Box 295 FITCHBURG, MASS. 




A lady stepped from the Limited 

Express at a side station on a special 

stop order. To the only man in sight 

she asked, — 

"When is the train for Madison due 

here, please?" 

"The train went an hour ago, ma'am : 

the next one is to-morrow at eight 

o'clock." 

The lady in perplexity then asked, — 
"Where is the nearest hotel?" 
"There is no hotel here at all," re- 

pHed the man. 




"But what shall I do?" asked the 
lady. "Where shall I spend the 
night?" 

' ' I guess you'll have to stay all night 
with the station agent," was the reply. 


UOME-MAKING AS A PROFESSION- 

1 1 the interesting 66-page booklet of the American School 
of Home Economics is sent on request. Correspondence 
courses : Food, Housekeeping, Health, Motherhood, etc. Ad- 
dress postal A. S. H. E., 3328a Armour Ave., Chicago, 111. 


UOIIQPVI/IPF For ten cents silver and 
n\/iiOEWiriL self-addressed stamped 
envelope we will send box of powder, charges paid, 
that will exterminate roaches. Never fails. 

VERMIN POWDER CO., SCRANTON, PA. 


"Sir!" flashed up the lady, "I'd 
have you know I'm a lady" — 

"Well," said the man as he strode 
off, "so is the station agent!" 


TAKE CARE OF YOUR HAIR 

For 10 cents silver and self-addressed stamped enve- 
lope I will send a recipe to keep light hair from 
glowing darker, also promote the growth and glossi- 
ness. Sure and narmless. Box J, Dalton. Pa. 




Your attention is called to the adver- 
tisement of "Bell's Seasoning" on an- 
other page of this magazine. Here 
in New England your mother used this 
seasoning, and probably your grand- 
mother. For more than forty years it 
has been recognized as ihe seasoning 
for the "Thanksgiving Turkey." You 
can do no better than to use it for 
flavoring the dressing of turkey, 






Quilted 
Mattress Pads 


^ Money spent wisely means comfort 
and pleasure to the spender. You 
go to bed to rest. Quilted Mattress 
Pads will make your bed comfortable 
as well as keep yours and baby's bed 
in a perfect sanitary condition. 

^The cost is small, and when 
washed they are as good as new. 

^Ask your dry goods dealer. 


chicken, meat, and fish. 


In addition to the purpose for which 
it is primarily designed, — to measure 
accurately liquids and solids, — few little 
utensils can serve so many uses as the 
"de Boutville Half Teaspoon." Any 
one who has filled salt and pepper 
shakers, spilling as much as was put in, 
will find this spoon worth the price 
for that purpose alone. And that is 
only one of many handy points about 
it. 


EXCELSIOfi QUILTING COMPANY 

15 Laijiht Street, New YorK, N.Y. 


eS& 









When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvi 



THE BOSTON 

GDKING-SCHODL 

MAGAZINE 



Or*CULINAR3Y»SCIENCIi-J\.NI> 
•DOALESTIO • ECONOMICS- 




^^-' 



SAUSAGE that 
you can be sure of 

Good sausage properly cooked are delicious. Nearly 
every one agrees on that point. But when you buy sausage 
in bulk you don't know that they are good. You don't 
know who made them, you don't know what's in them, you 
don't know who has handled them, and you do know that 
they have been exposed to the dust and microbe laden air 
of the market. But it is a simple matter to get rid of all 
this uncertainty. Insist on having 

Squire's ARLINGTON Sausage 

Made from choice, young, fresh pork and pure spices, in 
the cleanest of clean workrooms, by careful, experienced 
people. Each pound double-wrapped in air and moisture 
proof parchment paper, and plainly marked *' Squire's 
Arlington Sausage." Never touched by any hand from the 
time they leave our factory until they are opened in your 
kitchen. 

Any dealer can obtain Squire's "Arlington" Sausage 
as easily as he can the ordinary bulk goods. If your dealer 
declines to supply you, send us one dollar and we will de- 
liver at your door, express paid within 500 miles of Boston, 
five one-pound packages of Squire's "Arlington" Sausage 
and a sample pail of Squire's Kettle-rendered Pure Leaf 
Lard, the finest lard made. If that is too much sausage for 
you, get some neighbor to take a part. 

ONE OF THE SIGHTS OF BOSTON 

When in Boston don't fail to visit our immense model packing plant in Cam- 
bridge. Every part of it is open to the public at all times, and uniformed guides are 
always in attendance. There is no more interesting or instructive trip in all Boston. 
Take a Harvard Square East Cambridge car, and get off at Seventh Street. Only 
about ten minutes' ride from the North Station. 

JOHN P. SQUIRE &. COMPANY 

BOSTON, MASS. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



The Dream Boats 

By Grace Stone Field 



The dream boats sail away at night, The Lullaby Lady waits on shore 

And the Lullaby Lady waves her hand ; As the boats push off the sand. 

Over the sea of sleep they sail, The fare is a kiss, or maybe more ; 

"Outward bound with a favoring gale" And change she gives, from a generous store, 
From the shores of Drowsy-land. To each of the mariner band. 

And always the Lullaby Lady waits 
Each voyager dear to greet, 
AVith welcome warm, to Morning-strand, 
As sunrise breaks on Daytime-land; 
For mother's the Lady, you understand, 
The Lullaby Lady sweet ! 




PORCH OF MR. W. O. SAFFORD^S HOUSE ON WASHINGTON 
SQUARE, SALEM, MASS. 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. XI. 



NOVEMBER 



No. 4. 




A Salem Porch 



Salem Porches: A Study in Architecture 



By Mary H. Northend 



DID it ever occur to you that 
interest in any building centred 
in its doorways? Do you re- 
alize that without the massive, beau- 
tiful doorways, with their wrought 
iron gratings, the Boston Public Li- 
brary would look like a grim, gray 
fortress? It is the doors of the cathe- 



drals, the splendid homes of business 
blocks and public buildings, to which 
is due much of the claim to attractive- 
ness of these structures. 

No matter how elaborate the gen- 
eral outlines or how severely plain the 
architecture, there is always a showi- 
ness about, the doorway that strikes 



i66 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the eye first, even though it is merely 
that of contrasting simpHcity. 

In our old homes we almost inva- 
riably find the stamp of Puritanism, 
and a deeper scrutiny will reveal the 
characteristics of the times and the 
customs brought together in the door- 
way designs. There being no archi- 
tects in this country, joiners brought 
columns and pieces from the old coun- 
try, and found the widest scope for 
displa\dng their originality in fitting 
them together, in the doors and door- 
steps; but the carpenters, having 
learned their craft in England, Avorked 
out, perforce, the plans already learned, 
and the result was often a surprising 
mixture. 

Stroll through some of our New Eng- 
land villages, and make a study of the 



doorways of the homes. Possibly you 
may be disappointed at first, and, un- 
less you have already studied the sub- 
ject somewhat and are prejudiced in 
its favor, you may see doorways only 
as doorways, as necessary parts of a 
whole structure. But plod along, and 
keep your eyes open, and you will soon 
be lost in contemplation of the erst- 
while commonplace. 

See that scraggh' old garden at the 
end of a dusty stretch of road! The 
fence is half gone, and the weeds are 
thickly interspersed with the old-fash- 
ioned flowers, — hollyhocks and dahlias, 
intermixed with sunflowers, — and the 
air is so redolent with sweet clover 
that it well-nigh suffocates you. In 
the old house, which is such a very 
old one, guiltless of paint, is the door- 




Mr. David PIngree's Porch at Salem, Mass. 



Salem Porches 



167 




Roger's Porch, Danvers, Mass. 

way with its tiny panes of glass, white 
and conspicuous. 

Portsmouth has its old doorways, 
for it is full of quaint and interesting 
houses. Most of these are still occu- 
pied by descendants of the original 
owners. The Ladd house, built in 
1760, shows almost imposing entrance 
in the Georgian style of architecture. 

Kittery, Me., shows the Sir Wilham 
Pepperell house, built in 1729, and 
materially differing from the ordinary 
in the doorstep being raised from the 
ground. This gives an added impress- 
iveness to the mouth of the roomy 
mansion. 

The Longfellow house has an inter- 
esting doorway, modelled much after 
that of the Wyman tavern in Keene, 
N.H., where we find an example of 
the Norman use of polished columns, — 
the earhest use; for later on clusters 
of columns came into evidence, and 
later still sculptured figures was their 
adornment. 

One of the narrow streets in quaint 
old Marblehead shows a particularly 
splendid example of an old doorway. 
It looks ponderous and ill-propor- 



tioned at first glance, but a careful 
surv^ey shows symmetry and purpose. 

Salem, the witch city, is particularly 
noted for its fine doorways, and archi- 
tects have come from far and near to 
copy them. Man}" of them are the 
entrances to houses built by the mer- 
chants of that famous old New Eng- 
land town, when the port was the door- 
way to the country for the spices and 
tea and the merchandise of the Orient, 
Sumatra, Calcutta, and Zanzibar, and 
the town was plethoric with the in- 
crement therefrom. They are said 
by those who have seen them to be 
types of the best that are to be found 
in New England architecture. At 
53 Charter Street stands a three -story 
wooden house, perhaps a century old, 
studded with a square front, standing 
right upon the street and cornered in 
a graveyard, its small enclosed porch 
affording a glimpse up and down the 
street through an OA^al window^ on each 
side. Here lived Elizabeth Feabodv, 




Lyman House, Salem, Mass. 



i68 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Pierce- Nichols House 



who Hfted the rough, hand-forged 
latch to admit Nathaniel Hawthorne 
and his sisters, — the commencement 
of a friendship that ended in a mar- 
riage. 

The Cabot- Kndicott doorway, No. 
365 Essex Street, forms the entrance 
to a pure colonial house, owned by Mr. 
Daniel Low. This house, built in 1748, 
was the birthplace of Mary Endicott, 
daughter of William C. Endicott, Sec- 
retary of War in President Cleveland's 
Cabinet. It was here that in 1890 
General William T. Sherman was en- 
tertained. 

The Pierce-Nichols house, the porch 
of which is shown, was erected in 
1798, and is a fine specimen of the 
houses of that time of commercial 
prosperity. The Lyman doorway, 
near the Common, as also the Meek 
doorway, while differing in architect- 



ure, are both fine specimens of Salem 
porches. 

Under the oddly can'cd porch of 
the house 138 Federal Street, the street 
whose name has been carried from one 
end of the country to the other as the 
name of a tune, passed many daughters 
of Salem's merchants, grasping the 
silken folds of heavily flounced skirts 
as they mounted the steps and passed 
into the house. 

In the more elaborate arrangement 
known as the Bulfinch doors we have 
a construction that is at once simple 
and artistic. The doorways of the 
Portsmouth Athenseum and the Boston 
State House are like examples, both 
being built by Bulfinch himself. In 
the old doorways on Court Street, 
Portsmouth, and that of the Hazen 
house on Congress Street, we have il- 
lustrations of the progress made toward 



Salem Porches 



169 



elaboration; and so one might go on 
indefinitely, finding in the rudest and 
most crude of our old houses some- 
thing of interest and something repre- 
sentative of the time in its doorways. 
Often, in the most out-of-the-way 
places, one happens upon lines and 
angles and curves which show how 
history and Puritan theology are often 
half concealed, half revealed, in wood 
and brick and mortar. 



Doorways are an important feature 
of every structure. They should al- 
ways be made appropriate to the nature 
and purpose of the building into which 
they give entrance. Cheerful or gloomy 
in aspect, they either invite or forbid 
the approaching stranger. No part 
of a dwelling affords a better place than 
the doorway to display the character 
and taste of the owner. We build our- 
selves into our houses. 




A Chestnut Street Porch 



Minor Thanksgiving Reasons 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



|4N official ThanksgiA'ing procla- 
/ \ mation always sounds like rhet- 
^ j^oric compared \\d til the ungram- 
matical, jerky, personal little outbursts 
of gratitude which crowd upon our 
jogging memories all the way along 
our days of half discontent. One day 
in the year set apart for Thanksgiving! 
Why? Three hundred and sixty- five 
days are not enough for thanks, not 
because life is especialh- joyous, but 
because it is not worse than it is ! Not 
a bit of humbug in saying that. It is 
sheer truthfulness, for the older we are, 
the more dominant becomes this one 
note of thanksgiving. No matter how 
bad things are, they might be worse, so 
let us give thanks. 

Oh, the blessings that lie in these 
minor causes for gratitude, which 
heaped together would outdo in their 
jubilant phrases any proclamation of 
President or Governor, for it is only 
average human nature to rejoice first 
over one's personal boons. National 
causes of gratitude are all good in their 
way, but they don't come home save 
to patriots with that throbbing, ex- 
ultant sense of victory as do one's 
own little successes and pleasant hap- 
penings. 

We are thankful because we hai^e 
found out that "laughter is as divine 
as tears," and that we ought to be jolly 
and on good terms with all peoples and 
things. We need not go back to Saint 
Francis, nor read the up-to-date liter- 
ature of the Societies for the Prevention 
of Cruelty to Children and Animals, to 
learn how to be friends with birds and 
horses and puny children, as now wx 
see that it does not pay to mangle the 
life of amiihing, nor to bear grudges, 
nor to go about our daily doings with 
grievances, as if we were sorely in- 
jured. We are so glad we have dis- 



covered that it is not worth while to 
be on the lookout for trouble. 

Akin to gratitude for laughter is the 
thankfulness for having acquired the 
faculty of letting things pass, of not 
magnif^dng trifles, of kno^^ing how to 
separate the transient from the per- 
manent, and, when the permanent is 
bad, of knowing how to get round it, 
so that its worst badness gets elimi- 
nated. Just to let things slide makes 
a vast difference in the ease of living. 
It is a real knack to acquire this meet- 
ing of trouble easily. Some people 
seem to think that others have feelings 
only when they take life seriously : that 
is an easy matter compared with taking 
it blithely. 

More downright still is the rejoicing 
for the ability to praise others, which 
puts one in a glow of reflected happi- 
ness. One feels so strong and respon- 
sive, so wide-awake and exuberant in 
praising another, it is like the stimulus 
of briskest exercise. Coupled mth it 
is thankfulness for the right to love 
individuals, when we find it difficult or 
impossible to love humanity, which, as 
Chesterton has said, "is like loving a 
gigantic centipede." All of us are not 
attracted by gregarious woes or bliss: 
we like things singly, it is the one 
friend in whom we rejoice. In these 
days, when we are constantly told that 
we ought to give ourselves to humanity, 
to intermunicipal or international work, 
to anything which is inter and ex- 
tensive and binding, it is a relief to be 
simply thankful for the capacity to ' 
love and praise an individual for friend- 
ship's sake, and to leave humanity to 
those who appropriate it as a whole. 
Organizations and committees don't 
take the place of homes and chums. 
It is a great deal happier to marry a 
man than to be devoted to humanitv. 



Minor Thanksgiving Reasons 



171 



One can take that when she has not 
the man. 

We are thankful also for the ability 
to see the romantic and beautiful in 
almost everything, for the right to build 
and live in dream castles, for the sweet- 
ness of carrying on a perpetual, imagi- 
nary love story, in which we are always 
happy heroines, even if we are elderly. 
The rest of the family need not know 
anything about our good times all by 
our solitary selves. We know about 
them, as we dream while we work, and 
our pale lips and dull eyes grow deeper 
in color over our imaginings. Better 
still is it that our day-dreams help us 
to love what seems ugly in people and 
things, for in loving we transform the 
ugliness into beauty. Thanksgiving 
day is fine for this transformation. The 
dry turkey grows juicy, the pale cran- 
berry turns crimson, and the anaemic 
pumpkin pie takes on an orange hue. 

Still more personal is our thankful- 
ness for the knowledge how to keep 
young in looks, even if we have to use 
the appliances of age, the props that 
simulate youth. It is no longer a crime 
not to wear a cap nor to use cosmetics, 
nor to "keep one's figure." It is so 
silly not to do all that the science of 
the toilet makes practicable. 

Stronger yet than gratitude for ac- 
quiring the ability to preserv^e the out- 
ward semblance of youth is rejoicing 
for the permission of ourselves to for- 
ever try to keep young at heart. When 
you think you are too old to do a thing, 
then do it, says Dr. Lavender in Mrs. 
Deland's last story. It is so much easier 
to-day to be old in years than it was 
half a century ago, for now we keep 
up the bodily activities and the mental 
resources, which once it v/as thought 
the part of resignation to relinquish, 
with the putting on of spectacles. 



Only old people should always be on 
the lookout, lest they grow abject in 
demeanor through the pressure upon 
them of the youth of others. Children 
are so much younger than parents, and 
they do offer such perpetual advice to 
be careful. Just let the aged show that 
they expect always to be of importance, 
and they will be. Let them get humble- 
minded, and they will fritter away so- 
cially and intellectually. 

Thankful, too, we well may be when 
we have learnt it is not necessary to 
always tell all we know. There are 
always a fev/ enthusiasts who make it 
their business to insist upon the v/hole 
truth at all times, as if reserve were 
never wise nor diplomatic, and as if 
truth consisted in speech alone. Let 
us be thankful when we know how to 
be astute and not to say a word too 
much, not even informing ourselves of 
what we think. 

Surely we may be loudly thankful 
that the spelling reform has not yet 
invaded the Cooking-School Magazine, 
lest some of us might not understand 
its recipes in the garb of presidential 
authority, and then our home menus 
would be so much the poorer for our 
ignorance. 

Three reasons for minor thankfulness 
loom up big as we count our blessings: 

(i) That we have got the courage to 
put up with ourselves, just about the 
hardest thing we have to undertake, 
and that we have sympathy to put up 
with other people, which is not half so 
difficult a performance as enduring our- 
selves. (2) That we live to-day and 
were not alive at any other time. 

And last and best of these reasons 
for fgratitude is the fact that, when 
we cannot do the best thing, we 
always have ability to do the next 
best thing. 



A Church Service in Dixie-land 



By Lee McCrae 



'^^ ■ ^KK de front seats! de front 
I seats!" urged the usher at 
fl a negro church where my 
friends and I presented ourselves one 
summer evening. Although he was 
poHteness itself, we persisted in sitting 
close to the open door in the rear. 

We had missed the first of the ser- 
vice, and just as we were seated they 
began taking up the collection, — Ht- 
erally taking it up, for the givers 
marched to the front and deposited their 
offerings upon Httle tables that were 
ranged before the pulpit. These were 
three in number, one for pennies and 
nickels, one for dimes, and the third 
for "quatahs an' othah big money." 

We learned afterwards that the 
preacher is wont to say so much about 
"de cheap table" that few have the 
courage to patronize it, and the church 
is prospering accordingly. 

In a lusty, high-keyed voice a good 
brother was singing " Laban " over and 
over, while the people crowded up and 
down the aisles, clattering their chairs 
upon the bare floor, some giggling, 
some chatting with friends, some sing- 
ing "Laban." Several made two or 
three trips, possibly for the sheer fun 
of it or to show their new clothes, or, 
perchance, to let their neighbors know 
they had more than one "piece ob 
money," as they say. 

Naturally, we visitors thought our- 
selves excused; but not so. When a 
degree of quiet was restored, the 
preacher spied us, and exclaimed : "We 
begs de white folks' pahdon! Dey 
should hab been waited on fust! 
Bruddah Jackson, you tek de basket to 
dem. I spects dey wants ter gib a 
doUah apiece." 

There were no hymn-books in the 
seats, for various reasons, so the words 
were lined out, and sung in different 



keys and times according to the indi- 
vidual notions of the singers. How 
they did enjoy it! Even the prayers 
of the brethren took on a sort of tune, 
waxing more and more tuneful as their 
earnestness increased. 

Then the pastor arose and made the 
announcements, prefacing them with a 
proud statement that was evidently 
for our benefit: — 

"Dis yere am a Hve chu'ch! Deir 
am somet'ing goin' on ebery night. 
On Monday we preaches de Sinclair's 
baby's funeral; Tuesday night de 
Endeavahs gib a tacky pahty heah 
in de chu'ch; Wednesday night de 
prar-meetin' concurs; an' Friday 
night eberybody come to de pigtail 
sociable!" 

(Pigtails are considered choice mor- 
sels by the colored folks, but how they 
are served at sociables I cannot say, 
as we did not accept the invitation.) 

"An' now, breddren," he continued, 
"we will hab a trial summon by young 
Bruddah Allen. He jes' larned ter 
read 'bout two yeahs ago, but he has 
long puspired fo' de ministry, an' you 
mus' gib him yo' 'tention." 

After an apologetic preamble which 
had been carefully prepared and com- 
mitted to memory, the per spirant 
took a text about Joshua, and began 
to wax eloquent over the crucifixion. 
The more agonizing he made it, the 
louder were the ' ' Amens " and ' 'Glorys " 
from the front seats. But in the midst 
of it self -consciousness suddenly mas- 
tered him, and he exclaimed, "Now 
doan' any ob you laugh, or I'll git 
sca'd an' quit! Reckon it's time ter 
quit anyhow!" 

So ended the trial, — well named. 
The parson arose quickly, and put this 
quietus upon criticism. 

"/ tink de bruddah done pretty 



" That Ramshackle " 



173 



good! Ef yo' hea'ts wuz prepahed, 
you got some good outen it: ef dey 
wuzn't, 'twarn't his fault." 

Then he gave out his text, and 
preached a really creditable sermon, 
but one so fraught with excitement 
that two "sistahs" danced and shouted 
in the aisle, and a third had to be car- 
ried into the open air to recover from 
her happiness. This seemed to sur- 
prise no one except the visitors. We 
were informed that women always 
"took on," that no one is considered 
to have any religion unless he or she 
makes a fuss about it. 

At the close of the sermon the doors 
of the church were opened. One young 
negress went forward, and was seated 
in a chair facing the audience. The 
preacher announced her name and the 
fact that she brought a letter dated 
some five years before, and asked 
if any one would make a motion to 
receive her. 

Just as the motion was made, the 
tune-starter sprang to his feet with a 
loud "I objecM" 

There was a thrilling silence. He 
wiped his glasses and then his whole 
head with a gorgeous handkerchief, and 
continued : — 

"De sistah habn't got much religion, 
er she'd hab j'ined de chu'ch when she 
fust came heah. An' de man what 



recommembered huh, mos' likely he's 
dead by now. Yes, I objec'!" 

Nevertheless, after some debate the 
motion was seconded, and the whole 
congregation, including the visitors, 
lustily voted in the dilatory "sistah." 

By this time it was half-past ten 
o'clock, and the communion was still 
to be partaken. The interest was at 
high tide, and no one, not even the men 
who had stood against the wall through- 
out the long service, showed any signs 
of weariness. 

Amid intense silence the preacher 
lifted the piece of a sheet that covered 
the table, crumbled the pile of soda 
crackers on to porcelain dinner plates, 
and poured the wine from a tall beer 
bottle into some glass tumblers. 

Then the visitors reverently slipped 
out. 

They could scarcely have stayed 
that long in daytime unless they had 
worn blue glasses, for then the sun- 
light streams through small window 
panes that are painted alternately 
brick-red and grass-green in checker- 
board fashion. Common house paint 
was used, and it was put on with a 
whitewash brush; but, as one of the 
brethren let his dray stand idle while he 
thus beautified the church, it was surely 
a "labor of love," and therefore a suc- 
cess in the eyes of the recording angel. 



"That Ramshackle" 

In Two Parts 
By Frances Campbell Sparhawk 
Part II 



Y 



OU told him, of course, Molly, 
that we couldn't do it," said 
Jack, as the two sat that even- 
ing in their pretty sitting-room. 

"I certainly did." 

"And then you gave it up like a 



good girl, and came back here, which 
isn't the worst place in the world." 

"Yes, I gave up the five hundred 
dollar repairs, as you say. I told him 
we hadn't the money. When he saw 
how disappointed I was, he suggested 



174 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



that it would be easy to hire that 
amount. And I told him what Uncle 
Will used to say." 

''That debt was the devil? You 
said that?" 

"Indeed, I did. He said he wished 
everybody felt so." 

"And then you came away, poor 
child!" 

"But not immediately." 

"What, Molly! You didn't try to 
beat him down?" 

"No, indeed! I only beat them 
down." 

"'Them'?" 

"Yes, the repairs. I told him that 
all he suggested, and more, we intended 
to have him do for us ; but we must do 
it by degrees, and we could positively 
have only two hundred dollars' worth 
of repairs put on at present, and we 
counted upon him to make the house 
habitable for that. I said I could see 
how well he understood his business. 
This would have to be done, and he 
was the very man to do it." 

"So he took the praise in lieu of 
the three hundred dollars?" teased 
Jack. 

"Perhaps. He took to his figures 
again, and I stood with my fate trem- 
bling in the balance. I needn't have 
hard-wood floors at all, though they 
were better, he remarked after a while. 
We could put those in any time. It 
wasn't necessary to rip up all the floors 
now. He had thought I wanted new 
ones; but some were pretty fair, and 
the others could get on with patching 
for the present. Most of the old blinds 
could be fixed up and made to do for 
a year or two. We could not cut on 
plastering, the ceilings were so bad, 
and the walls must be mended in many 
places. Then he supposed I wouldn't 
like to live in a house with patched 
walls,^so, we should have to paper. 
As to the roof, he would look it over 
again very carefully. He thought 
he could manage|to keep on^a part 
of the shingling, with patching; but 



some must be new. And there 
were other things that could not be 
skipped!" 

"So you are really going to throw 
two hundred doUars into the fire — or 
the same thing, into the house! You 
can't make it fit to live in, even in 
summer weather, for that." Molly's 
only answer was to shut her lips and 
smile. "And the work is to begin 
to-morrow morning?" he went on. 
"I thought you were anxious to be on 
hand then." 

"I am. But the early train will 
take me there. I'll come back at 
night. And Saturday, at the end of 
our week here, you know, the furniture 
starts by freight. By the time it gets 
there, Mr. Harding says, the plastering 
will be dry enough to put the furniture 
into the house." 

"Hm! That depends a good deal 
on the weather." 

"Yes. And somewhat on a good 
kitchen stove that I found second- 
hand." 

"So, Molly, you want to leave here 
Saturday? I suppose from then, 
until we get our few sticks in the house, 
we shall be expected to hang like 
Mahomet's cofiin between heaven and 
earth?" 

"I hope you'll like it," she laughed, 
and the next moment added: "O 
Jack, Mrs. Harding has the loveliest 
little boy, five years old. We have 
delightful games together." 

"When, pray? Is he one of the 
workmen?" 

' 'When I take my dinner at her house, 
— dinner in the middle of the day. I 
like it in the country." 

"So that's the bridge that's to carry 
us across the gulf of homelessness ? " 
he said. 

She nodded assent. 

It was the following evening, when 
she had returned in time to go to a 
dinner party, that her husband asked: 
"Where's that new gown you were to 



"That Ramshackle" 



175 



wear, Molly? I think I've seen this 
one before — several times." 

"It's clean, — it's fresh, Jack; and 
you told me it was becoming." 

"Everything you put on is becoming, 
for that matter. But, if I remember 
that you've worn a thing over and 
over, other people are sure to remember 
it. Where's the new gown you were to 
have?" he persisted. "Isn't it fin- 
ished, with all the time yoii've spent 
on that ramshackle?" 

"No, Jack, it's not finished. And, 
to be quite honest, it's not begun. 
Did you expect me to furnish a house 
out of the furniture of sitting-room and 
bedroom?" 

A pause. Then Baring said in a 
displeased tone, "So my wife is to 
turn dowdy?" 

"Wait till you see the light in my 
eyes and the color in my cheeks that 
the country air will give me!" she 
cried. "You won't call me 'a dowdy' 
then, even if I go about in a kimono," 
finished dainty Molly with a glance 
which awoke her husband's smile. 

That evening, with her happy face 
and her charming manners, Jack con- 
fessed to himself that he could find no 
fault with her. 

It was ten days later that Baring 
swung to the gate, — on its hinges now, 
— and walked up the path to his new 
possessions. 

"Now the furniture is all scattered 
about, and things are not half finished," 
explained Molly. "But, at least, we 
can sleep here," she went on; "and 
to-morrow I'll get up something for 
your breakfast at home. Jack, before 
you go into town. And, O Jack, 
please don't think me avaricious; but 
I want you to pay me exactly what 
you paid in town for our board, taking 
out your fares, and pay me every 
week, — on the day, as you did there. 
I'm going to keep house on it!" 

"And hire a maid? Ridiculous, 
Molly!" 



"'Ridiculous' then, but I'm going 
to try it." 

"I suppose you'd like board in ad- 
vance, you calculating housekeeper," 
he laughed, handing her the amount. 

She dimpled and courtesied. ' 'Thank 
ye kindly, sir. Fresh eggs for break- 
fast?" 

"Then your hens are laying well, 
Mrs. Baring?" 

"Enough for family use. Soon I'll 
get enough for their keep: most of 
that they now get out of the orchard. 
But we'll have the henyard built this 
autumn." 

"Out of the board money, I sup- 
pose?" 

She laughed, and kept her own 
counsel. "There are no rugs down 
until the house is papered," she said, 
"and that can't be until the plaster 
is thoroughly dry. But come into the 
dining-room. The open fireplaces in 
the house — six, and good ones — are 
a blessing." She pointed to the hearth 
on which pine boughs had been piled 
to give it a festive look. "And see 
here. Jack." She approached mys- 
teriously a good-sized dining-table on 
which the cloth swept quite to the floor. 
As she lifted the cloth, she looked 
into her companion's face. 

"Ha! ha! a deal table! Why is 
your table-cloth like charity, Molly? 
And, methinks, I've seen these two 
chairs in our sitting-room." 

"Patience, Jack. It takes time for 
little Romes, as well as the big one." 

They went out into the kitchen, 
where Molly showed a pump of rain 
water beside the sink. In the closet 
and the pantry were a few dishes and 
some cooking utensils of the newest. 
A neat young woman stood at the 
table making biscuit. "Tea at night 
in country fashion, at least at present," 
announced Mrs. Baring. "Hannah, 
this is Mr. Baring. Jack, you've not 
seen our little maid before, I believe." 

Baring, who had the good fortune 
to be a gentleman, greeted his servant 



176 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



as politely as if she had been a guest, 
and questioned her as to whether her 
home was in C, before he gave his 
attention to the cooking-stove, and 
remarked that something good must be 
in the oven. 

"Peep," Molly said, and disclosed 
one of his favorite dishes. 

They had learned that the trolley 
line, which at first had seemed of no use 
to them, ran within half a mile of the 
house, and would land Baring at the 
station every morning in time for his 
train. He was disposed to be a little 
cross at first over this half-mile walk; 
but Molly joked so hopefully about the 
healthful effect of his morning stroll, 
and was herself so indefatigable, that 
he was ashamed to grumble. 

Then the spirit of possession got hold 
of him. He laughed with a zest that 
was not all joking over their being 
landed proprietors. 

* ' E)verything will be fairly convenient 
when we get into order," said the 
young wife, "except one thing. I 
don't like the drinking water outside. 
We must bring it into the house with 
a windmill." 

Baring roared. ' ' Pray, go on, Molly ! 
Did you ever happen to ask the price ? ' ' 

"All the same, we'll have it some 
day." 

Within a month Baring was called 
away on business, to be absent a week. 
When he returned, he gazed about him 
in delighted astonishment. 

"We've only been papering," said 
Molly, meekly, watching him with 
secret delight. 

"Now, my dear, I've thought you a 
model of prudence before," he said, as 
he went from room to room, making 
his comments. "But you saved up 
elsewhere, to spend here. The effect 
is beautiful. That soft, warm gray 
tint in the drawing-room is simpl}^ 
exqiiisite. It brings out the pictures 
marvellously. And the faint yellowish 
tint in the library suggesting, but not 
emphasizing sunshine, is so well fitted 



to a room that the sun visits sparingly. 
It will make the bindings of the books, 
-when we furnish this room, warmer 
and brighter. And just that suspicion 
of red in the dining-room! And the 
nondescript hue of the hall paper, — 
deliciously soft and charming! You 
have succeeded admirably. I couldn't 
have believed that papering could so 
transform a house. But you must have 
dipped deep into your purse, Molly." 

vShe stood by silent until he addressed 
her. Then she answered, meeker than 
ever Moses was, "Do you think five 
cents a roll too dear. Jack?" 

He laughed. 

"This is all five-cents-a-roll paper — • 
turned wrong-side out," she explained. 
"To be sure, I took some trouble in 
choosing it. The shades are up now, 
and the curtains in the drawing-room. 
These are one of my bargains. We can 
get on well this summer, Jack, with 
kitchen, dining-room, hall, drawing- 
room, and bedroom. We must leave 
the furnishing of the rest of the house 
to a convenient season." 

"This carpet is mighty pretty, and 
shows off the rugs finely," interrupted 
Baring, who had been commenting on 
the effective way she had hung the 
pictures.. 

"Only a denim border for the big 
rug. It is effective." 

Jack had grown thoroughly inter- 
ested. He, too, began to save. One 
day he paid Molly double board. 
"You'll know what to do with it," 
he said. And she did. This he re- 
peated many times. 

Then a friend who was going abroad 
wanted to know what she should do 
with her cow — a fine one — for the 
summer, and, hearing that the Barings 
had a country place, suggested send- 
ing it there until her return. "Our 
own eggs, our own milk, our own 
butter, vegetables from our neighbor 
for next to nothing but the pulling! 
I'm saving on your board, sir!" cried 
the young housewife. 



"That Ramshackle" 



177 



It was the end of September. Jack 
and Molly had been four months in 
their new home, when a friend invited 
herself to make them a visit. "She 
is used to everything in fine hotels 
and boarding-houses, for she is always 
travelling," objected Jack. 

"Very well, she shall have every- 
thing here, — everything comfortable, 
and a welcome. Jack. I think she 
can stand it for a few days." 

"Don't you want extra help?" 

"No, thank you. She comes 'to see 
how we live,' she says. Let her see." 

By this time the library had a carpet, 
curtains, a case of good books, and 
some little furniture; and the guest- 
room with its window opening upon the 
lawn, and looking down the winding 
road to the pine woods beyond, was 
most attractive. Also, many stray 
pieces of furniture, unpromising in 
the second-hand stores, had put on a 
new aspect under Molly's manipula- 
tions, with sometimes a little aid from 
the carpenter, and were admirably 
adapted to the quaintness of the house. 
In other cases unsightliness had been 
draped into beauty. 

Mrs. Oliver was enchanted. She had 
so much money that she never imagined 
that things could be bought as Molly 
bought them; and, if she had, she 
would have been infinitely amused, and 
have thought it great fun. The first 
day of her visit she praised unstintedly 
the views, the trees, the quaint charm- 
ing old furniture restored to fit the old 
house. Such harmony! Such color- 
ing everywhere! The second day she 
said much less — naturally. Jack de- 
clared. The third day she was un- 
usually silent — for nature had made her 
a talker — and went over the whole 
place with her hostess, studying the 
views. "There's something working 
in her mind-like," said Molly that 
evening to her husband. 

The fourth day it came out. Mrs. 



Oliver asked if they would not like to 
sell the place. 

Molly burst into tears. 

"Oh, no, no, thank you ever so 
much," Jack hastened to say. 

"But I'll tell you what, Mrs. Oliver," 
cried Molly, who had instantly recov- 
ered her dimples. "We'll put you up 
a bungalow on that knoll where you 
like the view so well, and furnish it 
for you, and let it to you for the sum- 
mers." 

"A bungalow!" repeated Mrs. Oliver. 
"But will that be big enough?" 

"Yes, my dear," cried Molly. 
"We're living in healthful country 
quiet. You mustn't come down here 
and bring all your frills. You've no 
idea how lovely you are without them, 
and how restful it wiU be to you. You 
know, you've only yourself and Laura. 
Bring one maid, and a cook if you 
must, and picnic. If you want a 
horse, there is room in our stable." 

"Just look at Molly, Mrs. Oliver. 
Did you ever see her so well? Coun- 
try air and country cream and country 
climbing and country hours would do 
more for Laura than all the massage 
in the world." 

"Are you in earnest, good people? 
Will you do it?" cried the guest, 
sitting bolt upright, and looking from 
one to the other. 

"We'll have a drive to Bolton Lake 
this evening to bind the bargain," 
laughed Molly. 

"How about getting into debt, 
Molly?" questioned Jack, when they 
were alone. 

"Mr. Harding and I can put up a 
bungalow for very little. Jack, with 
some of those charming plans to study. 
I can do it as well as Nannie Trumbull, 
I know. And then. Jack, there's 
that money 3'ou earned in yotur last 
case lying in the bank, waiting for a 
good investment. Here is one, and a 
charming neighbor besides." 



Browning in the Kitchen 

By Mrs. Charles Norman 



ROBERT BROWNING did not 
go into the kitchen as cook, but 
as tlie cook's assistant. His 
duty was to remain quietly upon a 
shelf erected for him just above the 
kitchen table, and, when the housewife 
had some particularly irksome task, — 
such as peeling potatoes, — she made 
ready, opened her volume of poems at 
some familiar lines, and read them or 
thought them as she did her work. 

She was a lover of good literatin"e, 
but her daily programme provided no 
place for study. Her life was one of 
activity, not of contemplation. The 
young man who wooed her, ten years 
before, had not held out the promise: 

"If you'll be mine, 
You shall neither wash dishes nor yet serve 

the wine, 
But sit on a cushion and sew up a seam, 

And feast upon strawberries, sugar, and 
cream." 

He had told her frankly that he had 
no fortune. They had talked it over, 
and had decided that, while much of 
their time would have to be spent in 
earning a Hvelihood and in the con- 
sideration of sumptuary matters, they 
must not employ all their hours thus. 
They would reduce their wants, and 
manage the necessary labor so that some 
time would remain for intellectual and 
spiritual growth. With money it would 
be easy enough to get the refining in- 
fluences of art, music, and literature, 
but these advantages must be had 
without money. "There is no use 
having a head," said the wife, "if we 
cannot contrive to live on little money. ' ' 
So much for theory! What of the 
practice? It must be admitted that 
not a day passed in which the whole 
palace of Beauty that their imagina- 
tions had built was not threatened 
with complete destruction. They had 
truly no gift for turning things' into 



dollars. Their united ability was no 
better, in this respect, than their sep- 
arate powers. They could not neglect 
everything while they read poetry, 
and the leisure their souls longed for was 
always in the future. Work! work! 
work! Work was always abimdant. 
Every day brought not only its regular 
duties, but something special, tiU there 
was hardly time to look at a beautiful 
sunset. Sometimes an inspiration 
would come to them, — a vision of love- 
liness, — but it was instantly hidden by a 
mountain of labor. 

It soon became obvious that, if these 
worshippers of the ideals were to save 
themselves from the commonplace, 
they must do so by prodigious invention 
and courage; and it required but a 
.brief analysis of the wife's case to 
decide where her time went. With all 
her determination to start right, she 
had started wrong. Some of the thou- 
sand httle things that took a thou- 
sand minutes to do she could afford 
to slight. A few of them her small 
daughter could be trained to perform. 
There were several points about the 
home arrangements that could be 
altered advantageously. First, the 
floors must be judiciously covered. 
Turkish rugs, with all their beauty, 
had added no blessedness to this 
woman's Hfe, for, besides the first cost, 
she found that they must be handled 
with some care, and could not be beaten 
by Tom, Dick, and Harry. Now 
Tom, Dick, and Harry were her only 
servants. She could not afford to 
pay for skilled labor, and she could not 
wear her life away fretting over the 
inefficiency of servants. 

Another menace to her liberty was 
a meaningless lot of bric-a-brac. A 
few pieces should be kept for their 
own sakes, a few as mementos. 
Some were baubles and not worth a 



Browning in the Kitchen 



179 



daily dusting. Sewing and mending 
could be greatly reduced by buying 
stout material and making garments 
plain. "The most refined people do 
not dress their children nor themselves 
in fanciful clothes." That much the 
mother had learned, and she had found 
a certain blue and white homespun, 
of a certain brand, in a certain store, 
which was worth all it cost, and this 
was bought in quantities. Thus time 
was saved in selecting materials, time 
was saved sewing and mending, and 
money was saved, which would buy 
leisure. 

But there was the cooking. What 
could be done there? Already the 
fare was simple. In nourishing quali- 
ties it must not deteriorate. In vain 
the woman said to herself, "Man shall 
not live by bread alone." Bread or a 
substitute he must have, and something 
else also. A healthy man and growing 
children cannot live upon beauty, even 
if "the beautiful is as useful as the use- 
ful." 

One day, when she was puzzling over 
these matters, a neighbor came in, — 
an old friendly acquaintance, — and the 
subject was broached to her. The 
answer was a flippant recital of the 
hackneyed lines: — 

"We may live without poetry, music, and art, 
We may live without conscience and live 

without heart, 
We may live without friends and live without 

books, 
But civilized man cannot live without 

cooks." 

The anxious housewife was a bit 
irritated. "That stanza has not a 
word of truth in it," she said, endeavor- 
ing to be as polite as possible. "We 
cannot live, in any true sense, without 
poetry, music, art, friends, and books, 
still less without conscience and heart. 
Besides, it is quite possible to live 
without any cooking at all; and some 
people would better cook nothing than 
to cook in such an unhygienic manner 
as they do. We should learn tem- 



perance, — temperance in cooking and 
eating and in reading. Some persons 
cook so badly because they cook too 
much. They do 'too much stewing,' 
as my husband says." 

"And too much roasting," said her 
sprightly neighbor, who relished a 
little slang. 

"Yes, doubtless," answered the 
earnest wife. "But I am too serious 
to appreciate your jokes. I must do 
the things that are most important. 
I do not want to die, and have the 
children in after life sum up my 
virtues by saying, 'She made good 
doughnuts.'" 

"Well," said the neighbor, still jest- 
ing, "why don't you keep a volume 
of poetry beside you in the kitchen, or 
hang it around your neck and read as 
you walk about?'' 

"Really," said the book-lover, "your 
idea is not so bad." And she afterward 
found that, with certain modifications, 
it was very good. It is sometimes 
necessary for a woman to put her entire 
thought into her cooking, but there 
are various bits of kitchen work that 
require little attention. A woman's 
mind is never a vacuum, and she might 
as well think a lofty thought as a com- 
monplace one. She need not read, but 
simply glance at some lines already 
familiar and beloved. Thus the words 
and the thought might sink deep in her 
mind, as the kneading of the bread 
or some other bit of work went on. 
"For really," she thought, "there can 
be no possible necessity of having my 
brain in dish-water because my hands 
must be there." 

Sometimes, instead of a book, she 
had a picture or only a few^ lines before 
her. These were selected in the even- 
ing, and were intended to supply help 
where help was needed. Once, when 
she was a little discouraged with the 
cold winter, which was inchned to limp 
tediously away, there appeared upon 
the shelf these words : — 

"For, lo, the winter is past, the rain 



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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



is over and gone ; the flowers appear on 
the earth; the time of the singing of 
birds is come." 

It happened sometimes that by the 
close of the day she was too tired to 
look at her verses. Sometimes she 
was fretted, and would not have read 
a line if she could. Generally, however, 
the very presence of her shelf-visitor 
was an inspiration, and in her weariest 
moments a sweet thought would often 



steal across her mind, Hke "perfume 
from"an unseen censer." 

Gradually, patience, reason, and 
thrift overcame many difficulties. 
The husband, by Hke efforts, had laid 
aside a Httle money without giving 
up body and soul to business; and so, 
in spite of the malevolent prediction 
of a certain peppery old lady, they 
had read Browning without letting 
"everything go to rack and ruin." 



What the Sexton's Wife Thought about It 

By Helen Campbell 



IT was not in the least surprising 
that the minister had gone to sleep, 
for it was late afternoon of one of 
the busiest days the great "Institu- 
tional Church," with its unceasing 
activities, had ever known. The big 
parlors, the perfect kitchen from which 
church suppers were serv^ed, the little 
theatre, and a series of committee and 
other rooms, each with its own special 
significance, made a whole in which 
from smallest baby in the creche up to 
the tramp in the little one known as 
"The Tramp's Retreat," all were pro- 
vided for as far as human foresight 
could provide. The minister, too, had 
a refuge, nominally a study, though ac- 
tually consulting-room most of the 
time, high up in the big, square tower, 
and perfectly appointed, — a haven of 
rest, at least to appearance, in its grave 
yet clear coloring, its long lines of book- 
cases, the great desk, a few fine prints, 
and a bust or two, and, the glory of it 
all, the two deep windows looking 
south and west. Under one the wide, 
leather-covered couch was set, and from 
it he could look out to the river running 
"at its own sweet will," the hills be- 
yond it green and still in the June sun- 
shine. 

All day he and the heads of innumer- 
able committees had planned the sum- 



mer work, for this was a church that 
never closed. There had been minutes 
in the long hot hours in which the 
overworked minister could have wished 
it might, and now, as he threw himself 
on the big lounge, he said half aloud, — 

"How would it feel, I wonder, to be 
a Church of England rector, with half 
a dozen curates for all this miscellane- 
ous work, and a chance for a little living 
on my own account now and then?" 

And now there rose before him the 
vision of a great minster, the essence 
of beauty and of repose in every line 
and a brooding peace for all who en- 
tered there, and, even as it seemed to 
stand there fair and still before his 
tired eyes, they closed, and he slept 
suddenly and dreamlessly. 

Had it been minutes or hours? He 
could not have told, for he had waked 
as suddenly, yet quietly and refreshed, 
then sat up, for a high voice in the ad- 
joining committee-room was talking at 
its highest. 

"Why don't I tell the minister? 
I guess he's got enough on his mind, 
folks after him from morning till night, 
and he never seeming to think his soul's 
his own. I ain't on that plan. He's 
gone home, poor man, fit to drop, I 
shouldn't wonder, and Thomas was too 
busy to do the shutting up, so I come 



What the Sexton's Wife Thought about It 



i8i 



up. I do mostly, though it wasn't in 
the bargain. Not much. You're a 
janitor's wife, and think there ain't 
any trials to beat that. What's the 
matter with our trials? I tell you, if 
you was a church sexton's wife, — a 
church anyway that tries to run all 
creation, — you'd think you had a pretty 
soft snap. Now you just listen, and I'll 
tell you." 

The minister sat up, and ran his hands 
through his hair. This must not go on, 
but it was going on, and he found him- 
self listening intently. 

"Now I've seen quite a few sextons' 
wives," the high voice continued, "in 
big churches, too, not one of them, 
though, driven the way I am, and noth- 
ing to show for it but bank account 
going down steady and temper rising 
to match. You ain't sniffing, I hope, 
for I had a bank account, ma'am, 
when Thomas come along. He's my 
second, and before him I'd took up 
dressmaking again that I dropped when 
I married my first. I'm handy at it, 
and always was, and I had built up a 
first-rate little business, and three girls 
steady in my work-room. Then come 
the offer to him of this place as sexton, — 
fifty dollars a month and six living 
rooms and electric light free and gas 
for the stove and all. The big front 
room took me. It was just the place 
for my sewing, and I said we'd move. 
You better believe I wish I hadn't; for 
what do you think? It wasn't long 
before they called my second up before 
the church officers. It didn't start 
with them, let me tell you. It was 
that everlasting interfering old thing, 
Mrs. Deacon B., for I won't be took up 
for saying who, and then said it wasn't 
suitable to have a regular dressmaking 
establishment in the church rooms, and 
the Sewing Society ladies and all the 
heads of everything couldn't stand it 
to know my customers was trailing up 
and down the stairs. 

"I was ready to fight them all, but 
there ! My second was under contract, 



and there wa'n't nothing in it about me 
or my work, so I had to let my girls go, 
and do such sewing as I could .alone, 
for I did want to keep some of my old 
customers. I might have taken a room 
or two somewheres else ; but look at it ! 
Here I have to show up at every church 
social, not for fun, — no, ma'am, not 
much, — but to make coffee, and rinse 
cups, and dish ice-creams, and wishing 
it might choke some of them; for what 
do you think? First they borrowed 
my best vase that a customer give me 
for a wedding present, and they broke 
it that same night. Then they wanted 
my lemonade set, and another time all 
my best tumblers, and they broke most 
of them, and never a word about re- 
placing them, and, when I said they 
shouldn't have my tea plates that they 
came after, they said I 'ought to be 
willing to do my part in the Lord's 
work,' and I said I guessed the Lord 
liked square dealing even at a church 
social, and when I got pay in cash or 
in kind for the things they had smashed 
would be time enough for me to settle 
what I'd do next. 

"That's one thing. Then once a 
week, all winter, they've had a rummage 
sale in the club-rooms, and the young 
woman that said she'd take sole charge 
caught the motoring fever bad, and 
hasn't come but three times since she 
started. So there's another job for me. 
What with suppers and teas and lect- 
ures, drills and mothers' meetings, I 
tell you there ain't even time to get 
Thomas a proper meal, much less eat 
one myself, and I'm that dyspeptic 
that the church ought to pay the doc- 
tor's bill if it knew its business, which 
it don't. So this very day I have said 
to Thomas that, if he thought so much 
of being a sexton, I'd be obliged if he'd 
take a church where the sexton's family 
lives a mile away, and the ladies of the 
Sewing Society or Ladies' Aid or noth- 
ing else don't care whether he's married 
or single. He was kind of took aback, 
but he see the p'int because he was 



l82 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



in favor of my having a business of my 
own, and he's going to resign short off. 
Now maybe you'd Hke to see the study." 
The minister closed his eyes. There 
was no time for escape, and he sank 
back on the broad lounge, and lay mo- 



tionless. "Merciful man !" the sexton's 
wife cried, in a stifled voice, then fled. 
' 'To think he might have heard it every 
word," she said, as they descended the 
stairs, "but he was sleeping as peaceful, 
dear man. I hope it will do him good." 



Rhubarb in Winter and 
A New Way of Canning 

By C. B. Smith 



RHUBARB can be easily forced 
in the cellar for winter use. 
From a single good plant a 
dozen bunches of rhubarb of unsur- 
passed quality can be grown. It is 
easily possible to secure twenty dollars' 
worth of stalks on an area ten feet 
square. Not only, therefore, may the 
housewife grow her own rhubarb from 
January to April, but with a little addi- 
tional work she can make it a source of 
income as well. No special building or 
construction is required in which to 
grow rhubarb. All the heat needed can 
be supplied by a lantern, and the process 
of culture is so simple that good results 
can be obtained the first time trpng. 

Most well-ordered suburban gardens 
and all farm gardens contain a few 
rhubarb plants. If some of these plants 
are dug up in November or December 
and left on the ground to freeze thor- 
oughly, they may be used immediately 
thereafter for forcing in the cellar or 
in boxes or in any frost-proof room. 

The roots should be packed in closely 
together, and covered about three inches 
deep with moist sand. It doesn't make 
any difference whether the floor of the 
cellar is cement, wood, or dirt. The 
roots do not grow, simply the stalks. 
The roots have already been stored full 
of plant food during the preceding 
summer's growth, and it is this stored 
food that the plant draws on in pro- 
ducing the new stalks. 



After the roots have been put in 
place, they should be entirely screened 
from the daylight. The stalks are more 
tender, juicy, better flavored, and more 
beautifully colored if grown in the en- 
tire absence of daylight. If a single 
ray of daylight penetrates the growing- 
room continuously, all the stalks bend 
toward it, becoming crooked, the leaf 
blade develops at the expense of the 
stalks, and the quality of the product 
is much impaired. 

Rhubarb will grow at a temperature 
anywhere above 45° Fahr. The higher 
the temperature, the faster will the 
growth be, but the stalks produced are 
not of as good quality as those more 
slowly grown. If a corner of the cellar 
is used for forcing, it may be screened 
from the light with blankets, and, if 
the growth is too slow, it may be hast- 
ened by keeping a lighted lantern in 
the bed. This gives heat, and does not 
have the injurious influence of day- 
Hght. 

Plants put in the cellar in December 
will usually be producing stalks by 
February, and ^\dll continue in bearing 
six weeks or more. When the yield of 
stalks begins to decline, the roots should 
be removed. These exhausted roots 
should be planted out in the garden 
again as soon as the soil can be worked 
in spring, and in a couple of years will 
be ready for forcing a second time. 

If one has only a few plants in the 



A New Way of Canning 



183 



garden, these may be split into halves 
or quarters with a spade, and only a 
part of the plant taken for forcing. 
This does not injure the part that re- 
mains, but is rather a benefit, since, 
unless thus divided, the crown becomes 
so full of buds that only weak, spindling 
stalks are produced. The cutting up of 
the clump reduces the number of buds 
and increases the size of the stalks. 
Roots two or three years old generally 
give best results, in winter forcing. 

There need be no hesitancy whatever 
in attempting to grow rhubarb for vnn- 
ter use. The only necessary precau- 
tions are to use only roots that have 
been frozen, and to grow the stalks in 
darkness. There is a lot of satisfaction 
in gathering and using rhubarb grown 
in one's own cellar, while the ground is 
still frozen and deeply covered with 
snow, and the expense and trouble of 
doing it are so little that no one need 
be without this piquant tonic and relish 
in midwinter. 



The usual way of canning most com- 
mon fruits and vegetables is to heat 
them to the boiling point before putting 
them into cans. This high temperature 
kills most of the injurious micro-organ- 
isms which ordinarily cause fruit to 
mould and ferment. The cooking, how- 
ever, results in discolored, rather soft, 
and even mushy fruit. 

A new way has been discovered by 
which fruits can be canned without 
boiling. By this method the fruits re- 
tain their natm-al shape, color, and 
flavor, and remain plump and attrac- 
tive in appearance. It is called the 
intermittent Pasteurizing method. 

By this method clean fruit or vege- 
tables are placed in clean cans, and 
water that has been boiled to sterilize 
it is poured over it, completely filling 
the cans. The covers are then put on 
lightly, but not screwed down, after 
which the cans are set in a boiler of 
water up to the cover. The water in 
the boiler is then heated up until the 



temperature in the centre of the cans 
records 165° Fahr. This is 57° less 
than boiling-point. The cans are held 
at this temperature for fifteen minutes. 
They are then removed, and the tops 
screwed down firmly. After standing 
from twenty-four to forty-eight hours, 
the cans are again heated up to the same 
temperature for the same length of 
time. A day or two later they are 
heated up for the third time, after 
which the contents of the cans are 
sterile, and will keep perfectly. 

The principles involved in this 
method of canning are as follows : The 
fermentation and moulds on canned 
goods are caused by the growth in the 
fruit and juice of microscopic plants. 
These plants are propagated by spores 
which correspond to the seed of higher 
plants. These spores are produced by 
the million. They are blown about by 
the wind, and are everywhere present, 
being especially abundant on the fruit 
itself. 

With moisture and a summer tem- 
perature, these spores grow very rap- 
idly, resulting in fermented and putre- 
factive products. By heating them up 
to a temperature of 165° Fahr., every 
spore that has started to grow will 
be killed. The spores that have not 
started to grow will not be killed b}^ 
the first heating, but by waiting twenty- 
foiu- to forty-eight hours almost all will 
germinate. The second heating kills 
all these, and, if any spores are still left, 
they germinate and are killed by the 
third heating. Fruits and vegetables 
thus sterilized in the cans keep prac- 
tically in their natural condition, and 
represent the perfection of canned 
goods. 

Com and peas cannot be preserved 
successfully by this method, but all of 
the fruits and such vegetables as to- 
matoes, green beans, wax beans, cauli- 
flower, asparagus, rhubarb, etc., when 
thus treated, keep perfectly, retain- 
ing their natural color, flavor, and 
texture. 



1 84 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

or 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR. 

Publication Office: 
372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, 10c. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued and arrearages are 
paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires: it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
tion, or a renewal of the same, has been re- 
ceived. 

Please- renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 

STAND-PAT 

STAND-PAT is evidently a mod- 
em slang word. Yet, like Charles 
Sumner's message of a single 
word, "stick," to Lincoln at a period 
of crisis in our national affairs, it is 
significant in meaning. The term in- 
dicates an attitude in conduct that at 
certain times and exigencies is com- 
mendable enough, perhaps; but, as 
used and appropriated at the present 
time in matters of high importance, 
the word is not only a mean one, but 
it is also indicative of a still meaner 
status or condition. It describes a 
state of mind, opposed to progress 
or reform, that is hopeless. 

Nothing human, at least, is perfect, 
fixed, or unalterable. All things are 



subject to change. "Science has 
taught us definitely to assert that every- 
thing is undergoing constant, eternal, 
and progressive development." In 
its application this lav/ of grov/th is 
universal. "New occasions teach new 
duties." New laws are constantly sup- 
planting the old. Even constitutions 
are subject to amendments; and es- 
pecially in economic affairs is this idea 
in keeping with the thought of the 
age. 

Stand-patism is not our doctrine: 
it is the policy of the seh-satisfied and 
the schemer. No way or scheme has 
ever been devised under the sun, 
whereby the few have tended to profit 
excessively, which did not at the same 
time tend to rob the many. It is high 
time we were turning our faces to the 
demands of justice and righteousness. 
It has been well said, ' ' Progress springs 
from doubt, and, until men are dis- 
satisfied with the present order, there 
is nothing better for them in the future." 

MORALS AND MANNERS 

WE clip the following from 
a recent editorial in the 
Congregationalist, and com- 
mend the subject as worthy of earnest 
thought and attention on the part of 
inland dwellers everywhere. Put into 
practice, it means more attractive and 
valuable homes, increased prosperity, 
and the enjoyment of higher pleasures 
and comforts of life: — 

"A score or more of years ago the 
pastor of a rural New England church 
led in organizing a Village Improve- 
ment Association. The neglected com- 
mon on the main street was made 
over into a smooth green lawn, and 
rows of shade-trees were planted. The 
inhabitants, as they came to the store, 
the post-office, and the church, wxre 
impressed with the change which con- 
stantly grew more pleasing. Some 
of those who lived along that street 
purchased lawn-mowers, set out trees 



Editorials 



«5 



and shrubs around their homes, and 
made new paths to their doors. Their 
neighbors felt obhged to follow their 
example. Visitors this summer who 
had not seen the town for several 
years were surprised at the transforma- 
tion. The improvement was evident 
among the people, young and old. An 
honorable pride in their town is mani- 
fest among the inhabitants everywhere. 
Its reputation is high among the neigh- 
boring towns and is extending. 

"There is a genuine gospel in this 
recent proclamation of the mayor of 
Denver: 'If your store front, resi- 
dence, or fence, is dingy, repaint it; 
if your awning is torn, old, or faded, 
get a new one. Resolve never to 
throw papers in the street. Ask your 
milkman, groceryman, and pressman 
to have their wagons painted.' The 
police commissioner of Boston has 
lately addressed its citizens along the 
same line. This is a gospel which can 
be preached by ministers and spread 
by laymen, and results may be ex- 
pected in renewed characters not less 
than in improved appearances." 

IGNORANCE OF COMMON THINGS 

THE whole scheme of edu- 
cating girls, an English pro- 
fessor says, is wrong in its 
fundamentals. On the teaching of 
science Professor Smithells says: — 

"As a rule, the science teaching is 
unpractical and formal, and the ig- 
norance of educated ladies as to ordi- 
nary domestic matters is appalling. 
Few schoolmistresses who have taken 
high degrees can give an intelligent 
account of the hot-water system in the 
ordinary house, or tell what it is that 
yeast acts upon when it is mixed with 
dough, or know whether a hand mir- 
ror is a test for a damp bed. They do 
not understand -^ hy washing soda goes 
white or brass turns green. They 
know nothing of gas meters, filters, or 
clinical thermometers, and are para- 



lyzed before a smoky chimney. The 
reason why girls despise housekeep- 
ing is because they are ignorant, and, 
therefore, find it uninteresting. Teach 
it as a science, he urges, teach it as an 
art, and a vast undeveloped intellect- 
ual region connected with the domestic 
work of women." 

When housekeeping is thus taught, 
and made a part of every young 
woman's education, domestic science 
will be placed on a better footing, and 
the ways of living will be widely im- 
proved. As matters in the average 
household now stand, many people 
have passed the better part of their 
lives before they begin to know how 
to care for themselves and live prop- 
erly. "We have what we want, and 
we get what we deserve." A few things 
are essential to our well-being here. 
Among these are a cleanly, comfort- 
able dwelling-place, an abundant sup- 
ply of pure water, and a knowledge 
of how to select and prepare whole- 
some food. What need, then, of tonics 
and nostrums? All our force is at- 
tained and maintained solely by the 
food we eat. Why do we not con- 
centrate our efforts to secure the things 
most needful at the expense of coimt- 
less items that afford merely temporary 
gratification ? 



STRENGTH BY CHEWING 

A PROFESSOR of poHtical econ- 
omy at Yale University, Irving 
^ Fisher, has been conducting ex- 
periments in human physical economy, 
the results of which are published in the 
Yale Alumni Weekly. The experi- 
ments were made with nine Yale 
students, and, beginning in January, 
were continued for about five months. 
The purpose of the experiments was 
to show whether the thorough mastica- 
tion of food increased its nutritive 
efficiency, especially its strength-pro- 
ducing efficiency. 

They made no arbitrary change in 



i86 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



their diet, eating whatever they rel- 
ished. The practice was to thoroughly 
masticate all food eaten, with atten- 
tion fixed on getting all the enjoyment 
possible from it for the palate. It was 
found that by this manner of eating 
the men gradually lost their desire for 
meat, and came to prefer cereals, fruits, 
and nuts. In June it was found that 
they had, entirely as a matter of indi- 
vidual preference, reduced their con- 
sumption of meat to one-sixth of what 
they had desired at first. In the middle 
of the experiment the men were im- 
proved 50 per cent, in their power of 
endurance, and at the end of the term 
they were able to do double the amount 
of physical work, as shown by the gym- 
nasium tests, that they could do in 
January. 

According to Professor Fisher, "The 
practical conclusion from these experi- 
ments is that it is in the power of a 
healthy individual to double his en- 
durance in five months by thorough 
mastication, prolonging the enjoyment 
of food and acquiring a more sensitive 
choice of amounts and kinds to meet 
the varying daily needs of the body." 
Unquestionably there is a kernel of 
wisdom here. It is another demonstra- 
tion of the old physiological maxim 
that, when the initial digestive operation 
is properly performed in the mouth, 
the remaining operations will secure 
the best nutritive results. 

Facts like these appeal to us. They 
concern every individual. That the 
best nutritive results depend upon 
the thorough mastication of food in 
the mouth is past the need of con- 
firmation. And, besides, the idea is 
reasonable and sensible. "Bodily 
energy is supplied by the food which 
has been assimilated, made a part of 
the body tissues. Much food eaten is 
never^so^utilized. It passes through 
only slightly changed or is" decomposed 
into toxic substances that do the body 
harm, and not good. Illnesses which 
come from this cause are said to be 



due to auto-infection." We want to 
derive all the good we can from our 
food, the most satisfactory and whole- 
some nutrition, and the way to attain 
this is by prolonged chewing. 



THE COST OF LIVING 

PROSPERITY is a good thing un- 
doubtedly, taking the large view 
of affairs; but there are many 
whom the present prosperity of the 
country operates to pinch in their re- 
sources. The dollar is becoming of less 
and less value, reckoning its value by 
what it will purchase of the necessities 
of life. High prices, which are so 
pleasant for those who have things to 
sell, are not equally advantageous to 
those who have to make both ends meet 
without an increased income. It is re- 
ported by those who make a business of 
computing prices that it requires to-day 
$1.02 to purchase what could have been 
bought for a dollar a month ago, and 
it requires $107 to buy what $100 would 
have purchased a year ago. At the 
end of the period of dull times nine 
years ago sixty-six cents would have 
purchased what it requires a dollar to 
purchase now, which is the same as 
saying that the cost of living has in- 
creased 50 per cent. This is a condition 
that makes hard times in spite of sur- 
rounding plenty for those whose wages 
or incomes remain the same, and es- 
pecially for institutions dependent on 
their endowments to conduct their 
work. Those who are prosperous should 
show liberality. • 



Socrates on Matrimony 

6 man in love, what's Happiness to thee 
"Anticipation's happiness," said he. 
When he was wed a year, I asked again: 
With look lugubrious, he said, "Memory.'' 



''A good habit is a lubricant that 
reduces the friction of life to a point 
where progress is possible." 




Some Thanksgiving Vegetables 



Seasonable Recipes 

' By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. 
A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a le-vel spoonful of such material. 



Bisque of Oysters 

Put a quart of milk in a double 
boiler with two slices of onion, two 
stalks of celery, and two sprigs of 
parsley. When the milk is scalded, 
stir in one-third a cup of flour mixed 
to a smooth batter with cold milk. 
Stir until the mixture thickens. Then 
cover, and let cook twenty minutes. 
Pour a cup of cold water over a quart 
of oysters, and look them over carefully, 
to remove bits of shell. Put the oysters 
in a saucepan, and strain the liquor 
and water over them. Heat the whole 
to the boiling-point, then skim and 
strain the first mixture over them. 
Add a teaspoonful and a half of salt, 
half a teaspoonful of black pepper or 
paprika, and mix thoroughly, adding 
meanwhile three tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter and half or a whole cup of cream. 



Oyster Broth, Tomatee 
Pour three cups of cold water over 
three pints of oysters, and look over 
the oysters carefully, to remove bits 
of shell. Put the oysters over the fire, 
and strain the liquor through a cheese- 
cloth over them. Bring the whole 
quickly to the boiling-point. Then 
skim out the oysters for use in salad, 
creamed oysters, oyster souffle or 
croquettes. Heat the broth again to 
the boiling-point. Let boil three min- 
utes, then skim. Have ready a cup 
of hot tomato sauce. Stir this into the 
broth. Add a teaspoonful or more 
of salt, half a teaspoonful of paprika. 
Then stir in, gradually, a tablespoonful 
of butter, and serve at once. To make 
the tomato sauce, melt three table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and cook in it 
two tablespoonfuls of raw, lean ham, 



i88 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



chopped fine, a generous slice of onion, 
half a small carrot, a piece of green 




Partridge 

pepper-pod, and a stalk of celery, all 
chopped fine. Stir and cook until 
delicately browned. Then add three 
table spoonfuls of flour, and stir, while 
cooking, until the flour is absorbed. 
Then add a cup and a 
half of canned tomatoes, 
and let boil ten or fifteen 
minutes. . Skim, if needed, 
and use as above. 



and dredge with flour after basting. 
Cook from half to three-fourths of an 
hour: the flesh, being white, should be 
thoroughly cooked. When the joints 
separate easily, the partridge is cooked. 
Put a cup of broth in the baking-pan, 
and let simmer, to dislodge all the 
browned material in the pan. Skim off 
the fat, and serve the residue as a 
sauce. Sherry or claret may be added. 
Bread sauce may also be served in a 
sauce-boat. * 

Bread Sauce 

Put one pint of rich milk, half a cup 
of grated bread crumbs, an onion, into 
which five or six cloves have been 
pressed, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprika, in 
a double boiler over the fire. Let cook 
about an hour. When ready to serve, 
remove the onion with the cloves, and 
add two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Then beat thoroughly. 

Chicken Timbale en Surprise 
Remove the breast from a young 
chicken weighing tw^o and a half or 
three pounds. Scrape the chicken pulp 
from the thin inner skin and tendons. 
Scrape also enough pulp from a tender 
veal cutlet (from the leg) to weigh 
half a pound (generous measure) . Add 
a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of 
pepper, and pound the meat with a 



Roast Partridge 

Truss the well-cleaned 
bird in the same manner 
as a chicken or turkey 
is trussed, and cover the 
breast with slices of mild- 
cured bacon or salt pork. 
Set to cook in a hot oven. 
Baste with melted butter or the drip 
ping in the pan every five minutes 




Roast Partridge 

pestle until it is very smooth. Then 
add two ounces (one-fourth a cup) 



Seasonable Recipes 



189 



of bread panada, and beat again. Add, 
one by one, two whole eggs or four yolks 
of eggs, pounding the mixture smooth 
between each addition. 
Now press the mixture, 
with a pestle, through a 
puree sieve, and set it 
aside in a cool place to 
become chilled. Then 
beat into it three-fourths 
a cup of rich cream. Line 
neatly the bottom of a 
quart mould with paper. 
Butter the paper and 
sides of the mould very 
thoroughly, and press 
decorations cut from slices of truffle 
into the butter, adding softened but- 
ter, if needed, to hold the truffle in 
place. Set the mould in a cool place. 



one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and 
a dash of pepper. Then stir in half a 
cup, each, of chicken stock and cream. 





Cottage Pie 

that the butter may stiffen. Have 
ready a pair of cooked sweetbreads, 
cut in half-inch cubes, a few truffle 
trimmings, chopped fine, and three or 
four fresh mushroom 
caps, peeled, broken 
in pieces, and sauted 
in butter, also two 
level tablespoonfuls 
of cooked ham cut 
in small cubes. Mix 
these together, sea- 
soning with salt and 
pepper as needed. 
Melt one -fourth a cup 
of butter. Cook in it 



Chicken Timbale en Surprise 

Stir until the boiling-point is reached. 
Then remove from the fire, and stir in 
the sweetbread mixture with two table- 
spoonfuls of sherry wine, and let the 
mixture cool. Line, 
the bottom and sides 
of the decorated mould 
with the chicken force- 
meat. Then put some 
of the sweetbread 
preparation into the 
centre of the mould. 
As the forcemeat 
preparation will be the 
firmest when cooked, 
and the timbale, when 
unmoulded, will rest 
on the mixture last 
put into the mould, the forcemeat 
should cover the entire sweetbread 
mixture, at least to the depth of half 
an inch. To insure this, fill in at the 




half a cup of flour, 



Stuffed Eggs, Fried, Sauce Tartare 



190 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



sides of the mould with the forcemeat. 
After the sweetbread mixture is put 
into the centre of the mould, the force- 




Potatoes Farci 

meat mixture can be put in place at the 
sides of the mould with ease. Set 
the mould on a dozen sheets of paper 
(news or wrapping paper) in a sauce- 
pan, and pour in boiling water to half 
the height of the mould. Let cook 
in a moderate oven about an hour, or 
until the mixture is quite firm. The 
water around the mould should not 
boil, and, if the oven is at all hot, the 
mixture should be covered with a 
buttered paper. Five or six minutes 
after the mould has been taken from 
the oven, invert it on a serving-dish, 
and pour around it a pint of cream 



Cottage Pie 
Cook remnants of cold roast lamb 
or veal, cut in thin slices, in stock made 
of the trimmings and bones, 
reinforced by chicken bones 
and remnants of uncooked 
meat, if at hand, until tender. 
Season with salt and pepper, 
and turn into a baking-dish. 
For a pint of meat with cup 
or more of broth, have ready 
about three cups of mashed 
potato, seasoned with salt and 
pepper and thoroughly beaten 
with butter and a little cream. 
Spread a layer of prepared po- 
tato over the meat, then put 
the rest on with a pastry bag and star 
tube. Brush over the potato with the 
yolk of an egg, beaten and diluted with 
a tablespoonful of milk. Set the dish 
in the oven to brown the edges of the 
potato, then serve at once. 

Eggs Cocotte, Convalescent Style 
Pour into an egg-dish one-fourth a 
cup, each, of consomme and sweet 
cream. Add a tablespoonful of Ma- 
deira wine, then break into the dish 
two fresh eggs. Set the dish into the 
oven to remain until the eggs are 
lightly set. Then serve at once with 




Eggs Cocotte, Convalescent Style 



or Bechamel sauce. Chopped truffles 
or fresh nmshrooms cooked in butter 
may be simmered five minutes in the 
sauce. This will serve ten. 



hot, pulled bread. For a person in 
health, bread crumbs browned in butter 
may be sprinkled over the eggs just 
before the dish is sent to the table. 



Seasonable Recipes 



91 



For pulled bread remove the crust 
from a loaf of fresh bread, and separate 
the crumb into strips with a knife and 
the fingers. Dry these, 
and brown them slightly 
in a slow oven. 

Potatoes, Farci 

Pare three large pota- 
toes. Wash and cut them 
in halves, lengthwise. 
Then scoop out the inside 
of the potato to leave a 
shell about one -eighth of 
an inch thick. Have 
ready as many large 
baked potatoes and a 
shallot or slice of onion, chopped fine 
or grated. Remove the pulp from the 
potatoes. Add the onion, one-fourth 
a cup of butter, half a teaspoonful of 
fine-chopped parsley, and salt and 
pepper to season. Mash, and beat 
until light, then use in filling the 
potato cases, rounding the mixture 
well. Set on a buttered tin, and let 
cook in a hot oven until the case is 
tender and the filling well browned. 
It will take fifteen or twenty minutes. 



Onions Stuffed with Pecan Nuts 
Peel eight Spanish onions. Let cook 
in boiling water an hour, then remove 




Mexican Salad 

from the water, and, when cooled a 
little, cut out a piece about two inches 
across around the root end, thus leav- 
ing a thin shell of onion. Chop fine 
one cup of pecan-nut meats. Mix 
these with a cup of grated bread crumbs 
stirred into one-third a cup of melted 
butter, a scant half a teaspoonful of 
salt, a dash of black pepper, a table- 
spoonful of fine-chopped parsley and 
a beaten Qgg, or, better still, two yolks 
of eggs. Sprinkle the inside of the 




Onions stuffed with Nuts 



For a supper dish fine-chopped ham 
or grated cheese (Parmesan preferred) 
may be mixed with the potato. 



onion cases with salt, very lightly, 
then fill with the nut mixture, giving^ 
it a dome shape on top. Set the pre- 



192 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



pared onions in a baking-dish suitable 
to send to the table, pour in about a 
cup of white stock, and set to cook in 




Celery-and-Apple Salad, Original Style 

a moderate oven. Let cook about 
three-fourths an hour, basting occa- 
sionally with the liquid in the pan, and 
at last with a tablespoonful of butter 
melted in hot water. Before serving, 
pour into the dish around the onions a 
cup of cream sauce. Serve from the 
dish in which they are cooked. 

Squash au Gratin 
Let the squash steam until tender. 
Drain, remove from the shell, mash, 
season with salt and pepper, if desired, 
then add a generous piece of butter. 
Beat thoroughly, and turn into a but- 
tered au gratin dish. Mix two-thirds 




Bread Pudding, Thanksgiving Style 



a cup of cracker crumbs with one- 
third a cup of mehed butter. Sprinkle 
over the squash two or three table- 



spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. 
Then sprinkle over the whole the 
buttered crumbs, and set the dish into 
the oven to brown the 
crumbs and make the 
whole very hot. The 
squash should be very dry. 

Mexican Salad 
Cut cold, boiled ham, 
cooked chicken, and cold, 
boiled potatoes into fine 
shreds or Juliennes. Take 
a cup of each, and mix 
with a tablespoonful and 
a half of olive oil, a scant 
tablespoonful of vinegar, a 
teaspoonful of grated onion, 
also paprika and salt as needed. When 
thoroughly mixed, set aside to become 
chilled and seasoned. In the mean time 
make ready a cup of shredded celery 
and one-third a cup of shreds of sweet 
red pepper. When ready to serve, mix 
the celery, pepper, and seasoned ingre- 
dients with enough mayonnaise dressing 
to hold them together. Turn them 
onto a bed of lettuce leaves. Garnish 
with quarters of hard-cooked egg and 
chopped white and sifted yolk of egg. 

Celery-and-Apple Salad, Original 

Style 
Mix mellow apples, pared, cored, and 
cut in three-eighths of 
an inch cubes, with 
half the measure or 
less of celery, cut in 
one-fourth inch slices. 
Then mix with a little 
salt, and turn into a 
salad bowl. Have 
ready two or three 
sweet red peppers 
cooked tender in boil- 
ing water and cooled. 
Cut open the peppers 
and discard the seeds. 
Then scrape the red pulp from the skin. 
Pound the pulp until smooth, then press 
it through a sieve into a cup of mayon- 



Seasonable Recipes 



193 



naise dressing. Turn the dressing onto 
the top of the salad. Mix the dressing 
with the apple and celery at the table. 

Bread Pudding, Thanks- 
giving Style 
Make ready one pint of 
grated bread crumbs. Beat 
the yolks of four eggs; add 
one cup and a half of sugar, 
the grated rind and juice of 
one lemon, or a quarter sec- 
tion of candied orange peel, 
sliced very thin, and mix with 
the crumbs. Gradually stir in 
one quart of milk. Let stand 
about half an hour. Then bake until 
firm in the centre. Let cool a few 
minutes. Then spread currant jelly 
over the top and cover with meringue 
made of the whites of four eggs and 
eight level teaspoonfuls of sugar. Sift 
granulated sugar over the meringue, and 
let cook in a moderate oven eight or ten 
minutes. After covering the jelly with 
meringue, pipe on the rest of the 
meringue as nests. After the meringue 
is browned, set a piece of jelly in each 
nest. Serve hot or cold. 

Apple Pralinees 
Core and peel six or more apples. 
Make a syrup of a cup 
and a half of sugar and 
two cups of water, and in 
this cook the apples until 
tender, turning often to 
keep them in shape and 
have them cooked 
throughout. Remove to 
a serving-dish as soon 
as cooked. Have ready 
about one-third a cup of 
almonds, blanched and 
chopped fine. For each 
apple take two level 
tablespoonfuls of sugar 
and a teaspoonful or two 
of the chopped nuts, and 
cook and stir the sugar and nuts over 
a hot fire until the sugar is changed to 



caramel. Turn the caramel with the 
nuts over the apples, taking care that 
none falls onto the dish. The mixture 




Apple Pralinees 

will candy upon the hot apples. Serve 
at once, or when cooled, with whipped 
or plain cream. Boil the syrup until 
it jellies. Then pour it around the 
apples. 

Fig Pie 

Cook three-fourths a pound of figs 
in a little water until the skins are 
tender and the liquid is reduced to 
about half a cup. Chop the figs, first 
discarding the stems. Add half a cup 
of boiled cider, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, one-fourth a cup of sugar, and, 
when cold, use as a filling for the pie. 
The pie may be made with two crusts. 




Fig Pie with Meringue 

or, after baking the filling in one crust, 
it may be covered with a meringue. 



194 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



The grated rind and juice of a large 
lemon, or half a cup of cider, just be- 
ginning to sour, may replace the boiled 
cider. The filling makes a large pie. 




Individual Charlotte Russe 

Apple Pie with Meringue 
Pare, core, and stew (with just enough 
water to keep them from burning) 
enough tart apples to make a pint. 
Press the pulp through a sieve. Add 
to it a scant half-teaspoonful of salt, 
half a cup of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
butter, and a grating of nutmeg. 
Put over the fire, and cook until well 
reduced, stirring occasionally. Remove 
from the fire, let cool, and beat in one 
whole egg and the yolks of three, beaten 
light. Have ready a pie tin 
lined with paste, as for a 
custard pie. Pour in the 
apple mixture, and bake until 
firm (about thirty-five min- 
utes). Remove from the 
oven, and let cool while a 
meringue is made ready. 
Spread the meringue over 
the apple, and return the 
pie to the oven to cook the 
meringue. It should take 
about twelve minutes. 

Meringue for Apple Pie 
Beat the whites of three eggs until 



very stiff. Then gradually beat into 
them three level tablespoonfuls of 
sugar. Then remoA'e the beater, and 
cut and fold three tablespoonfuls of 
sugar into the mixture. Flavor with 
lemon, vanilla, or almond extract. 
Use fine granulated sugar. 

Individual Charlotte Russe 
Beat one pint of double cream, one- 
third a cup of sugar, three tablespoon- 
fuls of sherry wine, and one teaspoon- 
ful of vanilla extract until firm to the 
bottom of the bowl. Then set aside to 
chill and stiffen. An hour or more 
before ser\'ing, line flaring champagne 
glasses (glass sherbet cups are appro- 
priate, so also are china or paper rame- 
kin cases) with lady fingers, cut in 
strips half an inch wide, letting them 
come up above the top of the glass. 
Fill the glasses with the prepared 
cream, putting on the last with pastry 
bag and tube. Decorate with thin 
slices of preserA'ed ginger and a mara- 
schino cherry. 

Butternut Cakes 
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream. ' 
Gradually beat in three-fourths a cup 
of granulated sugar, and then one cup 
of butternut meats and one egg, beaten 
without separating. Sift together 
two cups of entire-wheat flour, one- 
third a cup of pastry flour, half a tea- 




Butternut Cakes 

spoonful of soda, one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, half a teaspoonful of mace, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of cloves, and 



Seasonable Recipes 



195 



three-fourths a teaspoonful of cinna- 
mon. Add this to the first mixture 
alternately with one cup of sour milk. 
Beat thoroughly, and turn into little 
tins, fitted with rounds of paper on the 
bottoms, and thoroughly buttered. 
Bake about twenty-five minutes. The 
recipe makes eighteen cakes. When 
cold, ice with the icing made of brown 
sugar, and decorate with halves of 
butternut meats. 

Boiled Icing (Brown Sugar) 
Boil one cup of brown sugar and 
one-third a cup of water to 240° Fahr. 
Then pour in a fine stream onto the 
white of one egg, beaten very light. 
Continue the beating while the syrup 
is being added to the egg and for some 
minutes afterwards. Without a ther- 
mometer, boil the sugar until it spins 
a thread about three inches in length. 

Cranberry Punch 
Put one quart of cranberries over 
the fire with one pint of water, cover, 
and let cook five or six minutes. Then 
strain through cheese-cloth. Stir in 
two cups of sugar and the juice of a 
lemon, and, when cool, freeze as sher- 
bet. Take out the dasher, and with 
a wooden spoon beat in half a cup of 
claret wine. To serve, put the punch 
in small glasses, make an opening in 
the centre of the mixture in each glass, 
and put in a teaspoonful of claret, 
then serve at once, either with roast 
turkey or just before a game course. 

Flaky Pastry 
Pass through a sieve, together, three 
and one-half cups of sifted flour, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and half a teaspoon- 
ful of baking-powder. With the tips 
of the fingers or a knife work in half 
a cup (four ounces) of shortening 
other than butter, then moisten to a 
dough with cold water (about half a 
cup). Turn onto a board very lightly 
floured, and roll into a very thin rec- 
tangular sheet. Have ready half a cup 



(four ounces) of butter, worked and 
washed in cold water until it is in a 
smooth and flexible condition, then 
pat out the water and shape into a 
thin rectangular piece less than one- 
third the length of the paste. Lay 
the butter on the paste, turn one side 
evenly over it, and over this turn the 
other side. Fold one end over and 
the other end under the paste enclos- 
ing the butter, keeping the ends even, 
pat gently with the rolling-pin, to break 
up the large bubbles of enclosed air, 
then roll into a long rectangular strip. 
Fold evenly to make three layers, turn 
half-way round, and again roll into a 
long strip. Fold, turn, and roll out once 
or twice more, and the paste is ready 
to use. When the paste is properly 
made, this process is not a long one. 

Stuffed Eggs, Fried, Sauce Tartare 
Cover six fresh eggs with boiling 
water. Cover closely, and let stand, 
where the heat will be retained and the 
water w411 not boil, thirty minutes. 
Remove to cold water, and, when 
thoroughly cold, take off the shells. 
Divide the eggs in halves, lengthwise. 
Take out the yolks, and press them 
through a sieve. Add four anchovies 
drained from oil, and picked or pounded 
smooth, one-fourth a cup of soft, fine 
bread crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, salt and paprika to 
taste, with cream to make the whole 
mixture of a consistency to handle. 
Use in filling the spaces from which the 
yolks were taken, giving the mixture 
the shape of whole egg yolks. Beat 
an egg with two tablespoonfuls of 
water. In this roll the prepared eggs. 
Then roll them in soft, fine bread 
crumbs, fry in deep fat to a straw-color, 
and drain on soft paper. Garnish with 
parsley, and serve at once, with a cup 
of mayonnaise dressing into which a 
tablespoonful, each, of fine-chopped 
capers, green pepper-pod, cucumber 
pickles, olives, parsley, shallot, or mild 
onion, has been stirred. 



Menus for Thanksgiving Dinners 

" JFor peace anti liberty, for fooU anti raiment, for corn anti krtne anti milft, antr eijerg ^inti of Ijealtfj* 
ful notiristment,— (!&0ot( ©oH, 31 tfjank tfjee ! 

** jFor t\jt common ijcncftts of air anti Iigf}t, for useful fire anti tielicious toater, — ffirooli ffirotJ, I tijanfe 
tijee ! 

" JFbr ftnobDletige antr literature anti eiierg useful art ; for mg frientis anti tljeir prosperitg, antJ for tfje 
fetoness of mg enemies, — ffirooti ffiroti, 3: tl}anlt tIjee ! 

" iFor all tl}g innumeratjle benefits, for life anti reason anti tlje use of speeclj, for Ijealtlj anti jog anti 
eberg pleasant fjour,— mg gooti fflroti, 31 tljanfe tfjee!"— 5. Franklin. 

Private Home, City 
I. 

Oyster Broth, Tomatee. Celery. Olives. 

Eggs Stuffed with Anchovies, Fried, Sauce Tartare. 

Chicken Timbale, Surprise, Fresh Mushroom Sauce. 

Roast Turkey Stuffed with Whole Chestnuts, Sausage Croquettes. 

Cranberry Frappe. 

Buttered Onions. Squash au Gratin. 

Broiled Partridge Chick. Celery-and-Red Pepper Salad. 

Banbury Cakes. Charlotte Russe with Wine Jelly. 

Nuts. Raisens. Fruit. 

Black Coffee. 

II. 

Raw Oysters. 

Consomme. Olives. Celery. Salted Nuts. 

Boiled Halibut, Oyster Crab Sauce. Boiled Potatoes. 

Hot Galantine of Turkey, Giblet Gravy. 

Cranberry Punch. * . 

Onions Stuffed with Pecan Nuts. 

Squash Baked with Molasses and Butter. Mashed Potatoes. 

Supreme of Partridge Breast, Truffled. Cress Salad. 

Pumpkin Pie. Individual Charlotte Russe. 

Nuts. Raisens. Ge.ajpes. Pears. 

Black Coffee. 

Private Home, Country 

Cream-of-Corn Soup, St. Germain. Celery. 

Roast Turkey, Giblet Gravy. Scalloped Oysters. 

Mashed Potatoes. Mashed Squash au Gratin. Onions ln Cream Sauce. 

Sweet Pickled Peaches or Melon Mangoes. 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Pumpkin Pie. Bread Pudding with Jelly and Meringue. 

Cheese. Nuts. Rmsen^s. Older. 



Vegetarian Dinner 



Cream-of-Celery Soup. Browned Crackers. Olives. 

Nut Loaf, Orange G.arnish, Mushroom Sauce. 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Celery-and-Apple S.alad, Red Pepper Mayonnaise. 

Squash Pie. Ginger Ice-cream. Cheese. 

Nuts. Raisins. 

Coffee. 



Dinner for Two 



Consomme. Olives. Celery. 
Oysters Scalloped with Sherry Wine. 
Broiled Chicken. Mashed Potatoes. Candied Sweet Potatoes. 
Lettuce, French Dressing. 
Individual Squash Pies. Apples Prallnee. Cream. 
Nuts. Raisins. Coffee. 



Menus for One Week in November 



" JFor gooti life anti gooti ijealtlj, tax gooti compang anti gooti t^tu, mag tije ffiriber of all goati tfjings 
maftc us tijanftful." — Canon Shuttleworth. 



^Breakfast 
Cereal Cooked with Nuts, Cream. 

Baked Apples. 

German Coffee Cake. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. 

PuUed Bread. 

Roast Loin of Lamb. Mashed Turnips. 

Franconia Potatoes. 

Apple-and-Celery Salad. 

Cranberry Pie (with Cornstarch). 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Eggs Poached in Consomme on Toast. 

Canned Peaches. 

Sour Cream Cookies. Tea. 



Breakfast 

Hot Shredded Wheat Biscuit with Poached 
Eggs and Cream Sauce. 
Dry Toast. Orange Marmalade. 
Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Nut Loaf, Brown Sauce. 

Apple-and-Celery Salad, French Dressing. 

Grapes. 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. 

Lamb Souffle, Tomato Sauce. 

Candied Sweet Potatoes. 

Bread Pudding, Queen Style. 

Black Coffee. 



breakfast 

Oatmeal, Cream. 

Lamb and Potato Hashed with Green Pepper. 

Corn-meal Muffins. 

Dry Toast. Apple Marmalade. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 
Flageolet-and-Corn Succotash. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Baked Caramel Custard. Tea. 

Dinner 

Broiled Sirloin Steak, Bernaise Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Baked Squash. 

Baked Tapioca Pudding (%vith Currants), 

Hot Vanilla Sauce. 

Black Coffee. 



breakfast 

Malt Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Eggs Cocotte, Convalescent Style. 

Dry Toast. Waffles. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Roast Ribs of Beef, Platter Gravy. 

Franconia Potatoes. 

Squash au Gratin. Celery au Naturel. 

Apples Baked with Almonds, Cream. 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Cold Lamb, Sliced Thin. Mint Jelly. 

Delmonico Potatoes. 

Entire-wheat Nut-cakes. 

Tea. 



'Breakfast- 


"Breakfast 


Gluten Grits, Cream. . 


Grape-nuts, Cream. 


Apple-and-Banana Puree. . 


Oyster Omelet. 


Home-made Pork Sausage. 


Parker House Rolls. 


Rice Griddle-cakes. 


Coffee. 


Cereal Coffee. 


Luncheon 


Luncheon 


Dried Lima Beans, Hollandaise. 


Scalloped Oysters. New Pickles. 


Bread and Butter. 


Entire-wheat Baking-powder Biscuit. 


Apple Dumpling. 


Squash Pie. Tea. 


Tea. 


Dinner 


Dinn&r 


^oast Leg of Lamb (Boned and Stuffed). 


Boiled Cod, Egg Sauce. 


Fruit Jelly. 


Plain Boiled Potatoes. 


French Fried Potatoes. Celery Souffle. 


Celery au Gratin. Lettuce Salad 


Chocolate WTiip, Boiled Custard. 


Rice-and-Almond Pudding, Foamy Sa 


Little Cakes. Black Coffee. 


Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Sanitas Toasted Corn Flakes. 

Fresh Codfish Cakes. Bacon. 

New Pickles. 

Russian Bread. 

Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Cauliflower and Cheese 

au Gratin. 

Bread and Butter. 

Baked Sweet Apples, Cream. 

Sponge Cake. Tea. 



Dinner 

Shepherd's Pie. 

Squash Baked with Butter 

and Molasses. 

Celery Branches, Club Style. 

Fig Pie. 

Small Cups of Coffee. 



. After Breakfast Chat 

• By Janet M. Hill 

"What will be agreeable to the stomach and restorative to the system at five o'clock will be uneat- 
able and indigestible at a quarter past." — The Cook's Oracle. 



IN northern latitudes outdoor life 
ends with the advent of gray No- 
vember. From May till November 
life is more or less of a joyous holiday. 
We spend long mornings on the piazza 
with friends or neighbors, and "visit," 
while the family sewing or mending 
goes merrily on. We can exchange 
comments with our neighbors over 
the way while shaking the dust-cloth 
from the open window or door, and 
without hat or wrap run in for a five 
minutes' chat with friends more re- 
mote. But with November this sort 
of life ceases. It is more of an effort 
to be gregarious; and, instead of 
making this extra exertion, we ask 
our friends to break bread with us, 
and in return partake of their hos- 
pitality. 

Then comes the question, What 
food shall we set before our friends 
when they visit us? Often the desire 
to honor one's guests or to make a 
fine display gets the better of our 
judgment, and too many dishes are 
attempted. 

A dinner of many courses cannot 
be made ready and served successfully 
without two or more assistants in 
kitchen and pantry. Few dishes can 
be served at their best unless the 
final cooking take place just the mo- 
ment before they are to appear on the 
plates of the guests. Each course, if 
its evanescent aroma and flavor are 



to be retained, must be hurried from 
the fire to those awaiting it at the table. 
To cook carefully each course in suc- 
cession and have it ready at the exact 
moment of time scheduled for its ap- 
pearance is a simple matter, when 
everything has been made ready in 
advance and the hostess be not also 
both cook and waitress. 

But let no one fear to entertain her 
friends because of an unpretentious 
establishment. Where there is lack 
of ceremony, often more of true socia- 
bility and pleasure is found; and a 
few choice viands, cooked carefully 
and served hot, will be far better ap- 
preciated than a medley of courses 
brought on in relays from the warming 
oven. 

For instance, in planning the Thanks- 
giving dinner, dispense with the soup, 
if there be no one in the kitchen to 
season and dish the turkey and vege- 
tables while the soup is being eaten. 
Dress the salad at the table, and by no 
means have an^'thing hot included in 
the sweet course. 

But think not, because your attention 
is to be confined to turkey and vege- 
tables, that you have nothing to do. 
It is no small matter to cook a turkey 
to perfection. The preliminary^ clean- 
ing and trussing must be thoroughly 
and skilfully done, and the basting and 
frothing must, indeed, be a labor of 
love; for (unless a double roasting-pan 



After Breakfast Chat 



199 



be used) , without frequent and repeated 
opening of the oven door, followed by 
an application of hot fat and flour from 
the dredger to the several sides of the 
fowl, nothing but dry disappointment 
will await you. To enforce this point, 
note what Elwanger says, "In basting 
meats the average cook stands in 
need of constant advice and still more 
constant watching." Also what the 
illustrious cook and author of "The 
Three Musketeers" has to say: "Above 
all, never moisten your roasts, of 
whatever nature they may be, except 
with butter mixed with salt and pep- 
per. A cook who allows a single drop 
of bouillon in the dripping-pan should 
be instantly discharged and banished 
from France." 

Butter is by no means the article 
commonly used for basting a turkey. 
Fat taken from the top of the soup 
kettle, or cooked out of bacon, salt 
pork, or sausage, is good for this pur- 
pose, if it has not been previously 
burned and does not contain burned 
sediment. The minute solid material 
common in these fats, burns at a lower 
temperature than the fat itself, and, 
if this be left in the fat used for basting, 
it will detract from the rich golden 
brown tint which we are wont to as- 
sociate with a carefully cooked turkey. 
Bach time after basting dredge with 
flour. The flour will cook in the hot 
fat, forming a frothy-looking coating, 
much desired by epicures. 

Let the mashed potatoes be smooth 
and lightly beaten, seasoned "to point" 
and hot, the onions salted during the 
cooking, cream or butter being added 
while hot, the celery clean and crisp, 
the cranberries cooked no more than 
five minutes, and who could ask for 
a more satisfactory Thanksgiving din- 
ner? But, if a sweet seems to you a 
more fitting ending to the meal, a 
squash or pumpkin pie, or a fruit cup, 
— fruit sherbet with bits of fresh and 
preserved fruits in the bottom of the 
glass, — or a charlotte russe, may be 



partially made ready the day before, 
and finished in the morning long before 
the cooking of the main dishes of the 
dinner demands your whole attention. 

The ambitious cook, with plenty of 
time at her disposal, and desirous of 
finding new ways in which to present 
old-time favorites, is most disturbed 
by the multiplicity of styles from which 
selection is to be made. She dislikes 
to try experiments, and usually takes 
what some one else has tried and not 
found wanting. Let such an one try 
filling the body of the carefully cleaned 
turkey with whole chestnuts. The 
chestnuts should first be shelled and 
blanched, then cooked nearly tender in 
well-seasoned broth, or they may be 
shelled after roasting. The chestnuts 
will be found most palatable. They 
are improved by the prolonged cooking 
in the turkey. This cannot be said of 
oysters thus used. If a plat still more 
ambitious appeals to your taste, let 
the turkey be boned. Begin by cutting 
the skin down the full length of the 
back. Then, when the boning is com- 
pleted, lay the flesh, skin side down, on 
the board, and lay upon it a boned 
chicken or a boiled tongue, filling in 
wherever there is space with veal or 
fresh pork forcemeat. Roll the turkey 
carefully into a compact shape. Sew 
through the skin. Then roast as the 
ordinary turkey, taking especial pains 
to cook with very moderate heat and a 
little longer than usual. If the age 
of the turkey be doubtful, steam it 
an hour. Then finish the cooking in 
the oven. A turkey thus prepared 
is a delight to the carver unacquainted 
with anatomy. 

Where economy does not have to 
be considered, truflies, so harmoniously 
associated with grain-fed fowls and 
fatty dishes, may be introduced here 
and there in the forcemeat. At pres- 
ent, in this country, it must be the 
canned esculent; but Perigord truflies, 
which have been "studied by botanists, 
{Continued on page xiv.) 



Edible Menu Cards 



By Julia Davis Chandler 



THIS magazine has from time 
to time mentioned marzipan, 
and given directions for its 
manufacture in the home kitchen by 
slightly simpler processes than are used 
at candy factories. It is a confection 
much esteemed abroad, and, though it 
consists only of almond paste and 
sugar, the foreign name "marzipan" 
makes people think it something too- 
unheard-of to consider. 

In attractive forms, such as peas 
in their pods, asparagus ends, tiny 
rosebuds, potatoes, carrots, turnips, 
pigs, etc., it may be found at all good 
candy stores. Wish-bones are favorite 
shapes for Hallowe'en; but it is an- 
nounced, by a New York authority 
that in London it is being used for 
edible menu cards. 

There is a box propped upright by 
each cover, which contains pink marzi- 
pan, on which are lettered in wliite 
icing the dishes one may enjoy. At 
the end of the dinner the marzipan 
forms an agreeable sweet, or a very 
dainty souvenir, for future tasting. 

A certain Herr Willy is said to be the 
inventor of these. One may give him 
the credit of using marzipan as a menu 
card; but marzipan so ornamented in 
boxes has long been used for gifts on 
the Continent. So, if Herr Willy has 
just introduced them in London, he is 
but copying from the Christmas gifts 
familiar in Germany Often elaborate 
wreaths surround such boxes, with 
lettering appropriate to the occasion, 
and the recipient's name or initials 
in the centre, just as we have the 
same upon wedding cake or Kaster 
eggs. 

Marzipan may be used to stuff large 
raisins for a bonne-bouche, or balls of it 
can be covered with chocolate for bon- 
bons. 

The following recipe was brought 



from Germany by a lady who makes 
it for holidays. Her practical direc- 
tions will be found very useful. She 
does not attempt to finish it in the fancy 
forms used by professionals. 

Take one pound of sweet almonds 
and about six bitter almonds. Blanch 
them in the usual manner by scalding 
with hot water, and then remove the 
brown skins. Place the almonds in 
cold water, and leave them for two or 
three days, changing the water twice 
or even three times each day. After 
the almonds have been drained and 
thoroughly dried on a soft towel, they 
are to be grated (in Germany they 
have an especial grater for this work) 
or ground, and then pounded in a mortar 
until they form a smooth paste. 

Add one-half a pound of powdered 
sugar, and put the almond paste and 
the sugar in a bright saucepan over 
a moderate- fire. An agate dish will 
do, but a copper sugar boiler is better. 
No water is to be added. The almonds 
are moist, and the sugar dissolves. It 
must be stirred constantly. At first it 
will seem a strange and discouraging 
mixture; but presently it will cease 
to cling to the sides of the pan, and 
will form in a ball about the spoon. 
Let it cool. Then knead into it one 
pound of powdered sugar. Knead it 
just as you do bread. This is now 
marzipan paste; and it is ready for 
forming into shapes with the fingers 
or by means of small carv^ed wooden 
moulds. After being shaped, the marzi- 
pan must be dried a few hoturs before 
being browned in the oven. If they 
are too fresh, they will burst open and 
their shape be destroyed. A "sala- 
mander" iron is the best thing to brown 
them. 

Flavor with orange-flower water, 
rose, jessamine, or w^hat you will. A 
clove end makes a good thing for the 



About Beds 



20 1 



blossom end of an apple. Colors come 
to tint the surfaces, which are harmless, 
if you wish to imitate fruit, etc. 

A further hint is this: If you try to 
grind the almonds in the usual kitchen 



grinders or choppers, it is well to use 
the coarsest knife first. Then put them 
through the next size, and so on. If 
you try to grind them to a paste by one 
process, you are apt to have trouble. 



About Beds 

By L. F. M. 



D 



Bed-making 
ID you have a good bed?" 
lis one of the standard ques- 
tions asked returning so- 
journers at summer hotels. This 
generally follows the query, ' ' How was 
the table?" showing that the resting- 
place is almost as important as the 
diet for human beings. And why 
not ? We certainly are dependent upon 
our beds, literally, for a good many 
hours. 

There are beds and beds. Some are 
just straight, uncomfortable, hard, and 
unchangeable; but many times they 
can be helped. Very few people realize, 
judging by many beds in many places, 
that a spring can be rendered far more 
springy by a change in the slats be- 
neath. Pile four slats at the second 
slat socket at the head, and three at 
the second slat socket at the foot, and 
set the spring down upon the two piles. 
You will exclaim at the difference, es- 
pecially if the spring has become a bit 
saggy. It does not then go down with 
your weight and strike upon the bed 
slats. The extra inch at the top will 
give added comfort, as most beds tend 
to be a little lower at the head. All 
this, of coiu-se, refers to the wooden 
bedstead which is still largely met with 
in summer hotels. 

A hard mattress is indeed a hard 
proposition, but one can sometimes lay 
hands upon a comfortable with which 
to cover it, or some of the qtiilted pad- 
ding that all department stores keep. 
It were better to buy either for one's self 



than to suffer through nearly half one's 
vacation from a hard mattress. 

Then so much depends, at home or 
abroad, upon the way a bed is made. 
Aside from the daily turning of the mat- 
tress, the lower sheet should be so 
smoothed and tucked in, so free from 
wrinkles, that it resembles a hospital 
bed. The upper sheet should be well 
tucked in at the foot, and likewise the 
blanket, so that a little harder pull at 
the covers may not give one the feeling 
of despair that follows "pulling every- 
thing out at the foot." Especially does 
this feeling attack the masculine mind, 
for most men are so helpless as to the 
process of bed-making at any time. A 
very good housekeeper taught the writer 
years ago to leave enough of the upper 
sheet at the top, however, to turn over 
the first blanket in summer and both 
in winter, so that it protects the less 
easily washed blankets from soil from 
the sleeper's face, besides being so 
much more grateful to the skin of face 
and neck. 

After these essentials the bed can be 
made as attractive with dainty spreads 
and the like as one wishes ; but, if the 
bed-making is not right, it is a delusion 
and a snare. Personally, I like my well- 
beaten pillows covered with shams or 
scarf. The pillows are certainly sweeter 
to lie upon at night, if the dust has not 
been allow^ed to collect upon them dur- 
ing the day. 

One important thing in keeping a 
bed nice is the care with which it is 
opened. The spread should be care- 



202 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



fully folded back once, once again, and 
then placed smoothly back upon the 
footboard, unless, indeed, it be re- 
moved altogether and folded. For or- 
dinary use, however, the above is a 
good way. If the spread is tossed 
back and lies in half -rumpled condi- 
tion, the bed next day has the effect of 
a slept-in garment. The pillow pro- 
tector should be removed and carefully 
folded or placed where it will not 
wrinkle, the bed clothes turned down, in 
summer folding back the first blanket 
upon the foot-board, taking care, how- 



ever, to leave the upper end where a 
sleepy hand may easily find it to draw 
up, should the extra covering be re- 
quired. 

The folding back of sheet and blanket 
should be done precisely and evenly, 
not simply tossing them back. 

With night pillows arranged care- 
fully, straight across the head-board, the 
linen clean, one soft light in readiness 
for the room's occupant, a pitcher of 
ice water at hand, what guest does not 
anticipate the coming of tired Nature's 
sweet restorer under these conditions. 



Foreign Pensions 



econ 



d Pap 



er 



By Arthur W. Brayley 



1UNCHK0N was at one o'clock, 
comprising warmed-over dishes. 
^^Tea was at 4.30, and dinner at 
six o'clock. 

Let me give the menu: soup, fish, 
roast, dessert, fruit, coffee. Each day 
had its own course, so that "steady" 
boarders knew what was to be served 
on every day in the week, and, strange 
to say, it was never varied. Neither 
was the method of cooking or serving 
altered. After a while one's taste 
became so trained that he could in 
imagination, taste every dish to be 
served from Monday's breakfast to 
Sunday's dinner. 

There were guests that looked hale 
and hearty after years of this fare. 
True, they dined out frequently. So 
did we. Nevertheless, we longed for 
a change. 

The soup was of four varieties, and 
always was good. The fish, of five 
kinds, was never out of the fry. The 
beef! Ah! there was the trial, as tender 
as a scrod, but as tasteless as a tooth- 
pick. In fact, one could hardly tell 



by taste which was fowl, pheasant, 
veal, or beef. And the vegetables! 
Why does the English cook think that 
all vegetables must be cooked and 
served like boiled potatoes? I am 
not sure, but I have a suspicion, that 
vegetables of all kinds are cooked in 
a pot at one and the same time. They 
taste like it. An EngHsh potato is a 
baked potato once and forever. "Beet- 
roots " are bought cooked at the market. 
They are the sugar beet, and are as 
large as a quart measure and about 
as hard. Then there are carrots, pars- 
nips, turnips, and artichokes; but the 
three great and steady vegetables, 
one or all of which are served even if 
the potato is absent, are cabbage, cauli- 
flower, and Brussels sprouts. 

For dessert the tart was present ever ; 
but to the Yankee palate it will never 
take the place of pie. Of course there 
were puddings of various kinds, also 
jellies, etc.; but the tart is as distinc- 
tively English as the pie is American. 
Many times I have heard Americans 
{Continued on page xx.) 




HOME idi:as 

AHD ECOnOMIES 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



How to keep Plants Healthy in 
Winter 

USE the water in which the clothes 
have been boiled for your plants. 
The lye from the laundry soap will 
supply sufficient heat to the ground 
to insure healthy plants during the 
coldest weather. 

The gloss of a rubber plant is greatly 
increased by the use of a teaspoonful 
of sweet oil about its roots once a 
month. B. p. 

* 
* * 

POT roast is greatly improved if 
cooked in the following manner: 
Heat an iron pot until it is smoking 
hot, put in the meat, and let it brown 
well, turning often to prevent burn- 
ing. Cover with boiling water, and 
let it gently simmer until tender. A 
little salt may be added to the water. 
When the meat is tender, the water 
will have evaporated considerably. 
Use the remainder, either with or with- 
out thickening, as a sauce. 

R. H. w. 
* 

How we removed Soot from Carpets 
after the Earthquake 

TO those of us living in the dis- 
tricts visited by the havoc and 
ruin of the recent earthquake, and who 
were fortunate enough to have a home 
remaining, there was at once pre- 
sented the problem of how to remove 
the soot which covered carpets and 
furniture, for the great shock acted as 
a chinmey-sweep, scattering the fine 



dust over everything. We first swept 
up the greater quantity of soot, being 
careful not to use force enough to 
brush it into the carpet. Then equal 
quantities of salt and corn-meal were 
sprinkled over, brushed in thoroughly, 
and then the carpet was swept. In 
some spots it was necessary to repeat 
the process, but the resrdt was a clean, 
bright carpet, innocent of spot or blem- 
ish. If carpets are sprinkled with 
this mixture before sweeping, they 
will be brightened and freshened. If 
it is desired to more thoroughly clean 
a carpet or rug without taking it up, 
it may be sprinkled with corn-meal 
moistened with ammonia or gasolene. 
Then go over the carpet with a whisk 
broom, using a short, quick, strong 
motion, or tap lightly with a flexible 
rug-beater. Sweep and repeat, if nec- 
essary. 






Ragout of Veal 

Ingredients: two tablespoonfuls of 
minced onion, two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, slices of cold cooked veal, one 
cup of veal gravy, one tablespoonful 
of tomato ketchup. Salt and pepper. 

Method. — Cook onion in butter five 
minutes. Add slices of cold, cooked 
veal (boiled or roasted), sprinkle each 
slice with salt and pepper, cover with 
veal gravy, seasoned with ketchup, 
allow to become hot, and serve with 
slices overlapping each other on platter. 
Garnish with toast points and stuffed 
olives. The quantity of gravy, etc., 
is sufficient for seven or eight medium- 
sized slices of veal. m. n. f. 



204 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Scientific and Useful 

THE Medical and Surgical Re- 
porter contains a curious article 
on the "Suspension of Old Age," the 
leading idea of which is that "the real 
change which produces old age is noth- 
ing, more or less, than a slow but 
steady accumulation of calcareous 
matter throughout the system; and 
it is owing to these deposits that the 
structure of every organ is altered, 
elasticity thus giving way to senile 
rigidity. Blockage of various organs 
thus commenced, and, sooner or later, 
a vital part becomes involved, and 
death of necessity follows. To delay 
this process, the writer advises the 
avoidance of food containing this cal- 
careous matter, among which bread 
is common. Moderation in eating is 
enjoined; and among the articles 
recommended are fruit, fish, poultry, 
flesh of young mutton and beef, be- 
cause, as before stated, of their being 
less nitrogenous. All well and spring 
water contains considerable of the 
earthy salts, and should therefore be 
avoided, and cistern water used in its 
stead, because water is the most uni- 
versal solvent known. Therefore, if 
taken into the system clear of foreign 
matter, it is to that extent the better 
prepared to dissolve and take up those 
earthy salts, and convey them out of 
the system. The ■ addition of fifteen 
or twenty drops of diluted phosphoric 
acid to the glass of w^ater, and drank 
three times a day, will add to the 
solubility of these earthy salts. 



M. G. B. 



* 
* * 



Derivations of Names of some Com- 
mon Foods 

BREAD comes from the Anglo- 
Saxon, and is derived from the same 
root as hrerw, a reference to the raising 
or lightening of the bread by the use 
of hops. Butter comes from the Greek 



word hous, one form of the word 
being houtyron. 

Beef derives its name from hos, the 
Latin for ox, once spelled hoef. In 
the rude Norseman's language, a roast 
of beef was steik, and from that came 
our steak. Sirloin steak was the sur, 
or upper, loin. There is a story that 
James I. once knighted a loin of beef, 
making it Sir Loin, thus originating 
the name. 

Porcus is the Latin for hog, hence 
it is easy to see how the flesh of swine 
came to be called pork. Sausage came 
from the Latin, sal, salt. Originally 
sausage was salt meat, smoked and 
dried. Sauce is derived from salsus, 
and meant a relish or flavor. 

Mult was once a Latin word for 
sheep, hence mutton. Veau was the 
French name for calf, and so the flesh 
of a calf came to be called veal. Ve- 
natis being the Latin for hunt, deer 
flesh is venison. 

Soup used to be sop, and originally 
meant a gravy or sauce in which 
bread was sopped or dipped, as is 
still the custom in some parts of the 
world. 

Pie is the name of an English bird. 
Possibly, when magpies or some other 
pied or potted birds were cooked in 
a crust of paste, the dish was called 
a pie. Afterwards all dishes of this 
form, whether filled with fruit or 
flesh, came to be so called. Cake 
probably comes from cook, indicating 
that which has been cooked. Coke, 
a refined form of coal, comes from 
the same source: it is cooked coal. 
Pudding comes from poot, which is 
Danish for pud, paw, so pudden is 
to thicken by stirring, and hence a 
pudding is something which has been 
stirred. 

One of our favorite desserts, Char- 
lotte russe, comes from the name of 
a Russian princess, while blanc 
mange is from two French words, 
signifying "something white to eat." 
John A. Morris. 



Home Ideas and Economies 



205 



"A Children's Sitting-room" 

AS that period in the life of the 
average parent, when the children 
are young, is usually not the time of 
the greatest affluence, an ideal arrange- 
ment for the "children's quarters" in 
a household is seldom possible. In a 
spacious home one or two sleeping- 
rooms and one "living" or day room 
with a bath-room of their own do 
not seem too great a proportion of space 
to be allotted to a family of two or 
three children, but, unfortunately, the 
average child is forced to content him- 
self with far less luxury than this. In 
too many homes it is the case that, 
when there has been provided com- 
fortable sleeping arrangements by 
night and a comer in almost any room 
for a few playthings by day, the con- 
science of the parent is set at rest. 
There is seldom a house so small that 
it does not provide, at least, three bed- 
rooms for family use. Let the largest 
and sunniest of these (always a south- 
ern exposure, when possible) be given 
up to the children, and made into a 
room in which they can "live," where 
the long afternoons of winter may be 
passed in content and comfort. The 
first requirement of such a room is a 
large, roomy closet. Half of it should 
be used for "hanging" space, the other 
half for a plain, pine, "built-in" ward- 
robe, with two deep drawers across 
the bottom, and shelves above. On 
the top shelf should be kept pads, pen- 
cils, scissors, mucilage, etc. ; on the 
other shelves, toys, doUs, and books of 
all descriptions. Such things as dolls' 
beds, tables, etc., would find space on 
the floor of the closet. The floor cover- 
ing of the room should be of a pretty 
figured Japanese matting, and a wain- 
scoting of matting shordd be on the 
walls. There is no better or more at- 
tractive covering for that space of the 
wall which comes in such frequent and 
dangerous contact with little hands. 
Spots and stains can be easily removed, 



sticky paper does not "stick" success- 
fully, and no amount of "pinning" 
can harm it. Around the top of the 
wainscoting, with an occasional ' hook 
"screwed in" at intervals underneath, 
and from the shelf to the ceiling is a 
paper of well-drawn design, — not a 
paper pleasing to the mother because 
of its appropriateness in being covered 
with complicated rows of Greenaway 
figures, but a paper so pure in de- 
sign and so simple in line that the 
child's first instinct would be to sit 
down and copy it. One excellent de- 
sign is of the "small tree" pattern, 
moderately conventionalized. The 
trees are at restful intervals apart, with 
the simplest tulip design between each 
one, carried out in shades of cream, 
soft greens, and yellows. Across the 
wide sunny window there should be 
a long, low window seat (of course, 
"box" in form, where articles can be 
stowed away) of a height which the 
children can comfortably "sit up" to 
in their little chairs, and built in at 
each end of the seat should be book- 
shelves to the floor. Outlining the 
windows, are curtains of cotton print, 
with a valance across the top, — the 
Noah's Ark" pattern is simple in de- 
sign and good in color. 

In the centre of the room is a 
small "library" table of mission de- 
sign, about three feet long by a foot 
and a half wide. At one end of the 
table stands a miniature Morris chair, 
and at the other end another small 
chair of good design. Somewhere 
in the room should be placed a 
small chiffonnier, or chest of drawers, 
of dark-stained oak. The handles of 
the drawers should be round wooden 
ones. If it is necessary that this room 
should be used also as a bedroom, have 
two small beds or cots, low at each 
end, for which slip covers can be made, 
on which sofa cushions can be used 
by day. The few pictures should be 
plainly framed photographs of some 
of the "Old Masters," such as Van 



2o6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Dyck's "Children of Charles I." and 
one or two of the Florentine ma- 
donnas. With such a room we might 
have reason to feel that we had taken 
one of the first steps toward cultivating 
the tastes of our children. 

A. B. ICai^es. 

Individual Bottles of Grape Juice 

ONE of the newest ways in which 
manufacturers are considering the 
needs and pleasures of the purchasing 
public is the extension of the package 
system to such small portions as in- 
dividuals may require. 

We have tiny moulds of choicest 
jelHes, in dainty glasses, made from 
a pleasing variety of fruits, which are 
put up by a firm in the fruit regions of 
New York State. Grape juice now 
comes in five-cent bottles suitable for 
an invalid's use. Often a larger bottle 
spoils before the variable appetite of a 
patient requires even what comes in 
the smaller sizes. Of course, in a family 
there are well persons who are not 
averse to this healthful beverage, or 
what is not needed may be quickly 
converted into a glass, or more, of 
jelly by a few minutes' boihng and the 
addition of sugar. 

These tiny bottles, labeled and sealed 
precisely hke the larger ones, are very 
nice for school luncheon baskets. 
There is no danger of the cork becom- 
ing loose. For travehng they are de- 
hghtful. Oftentimes a visitor is in 
need of some trifling lunch, though the 
hostess is doing all she can for her guest. 
There are times, just after a drive or 
before retiring, when perhaps one may 
desire a glass of grape juice and a 
cracker without making the wish known 
to the family. Failing a corkscrew, 
of course the cork may be pried out in 
feminine fashion with scissors, but 
better still are the httle cheap cork- 



screws, such as come gratis with ink- 
bottles. 

Grape juice may be added to lemon- 
ade in place of claret, with a bit of 
mint crushed with the sugar and an- 
other sprig added to garnish the top. 



J. D. c. 



* 
* * 



Creamed Corn au Gratin 

Melt one-fourth a cup of butter. 

Cook in it one-fourth a cup of flour, 

half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash 

of black pepper. Then stir in one 

cup and a half of rich milk. Cook and 

stir until the sauce boils. Then stir in 

one pint of canned or green com cut 

from the cob, let boil once, then turn 

into a baking-dish. Cover the top with 

three-fourths a cup of cracker crumbs 

mixed with one-third a cup of melted 

butter, and let bake ten or fifteen 

minutes. 

* 
* * 

The worst soiled or dingy towels 
will become sweet and white with this 
treatment: Cover with cold water. 
Put them at the back of the stove. 
Add a little shaved Castile, or Ivory, 
soap and the juice of a lemon. Let 
the water come to a boil gradually. 
If very much soiled, repeat the process. 
Rinse in tepid water, and then in cold 
water. 



Biggest Hennery on Earth 

Ten Thousand Egg Layers to be in Business on 
New Farm 

AATiat is said will be the largest 
chicken farm in the world is about to 
be located in Palmer township, three 
miles from Kaston, by WiUiamTalmage, 
of Toronto, Canada, and John Haupt, 
of Kaston. 

The farm wiU have ten thousand hens 
when it is equipped. About $50,000 
wiU be expended in the enterprise. 



.^slQUERIES and answers^ 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps ; for menus, $i . Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1175. — M. L. H., Redlands, Cal. : 
"Recipes for mint sandwiches, almond griddle - 
cakes, Indian tapioca pudding, German potato 
pancake served with braised beef, sauce to 
serve with delicate Indian pudding, grape- 
fruit cocktail, cherry bisque with candied cher- 
ries, and rum and banana pie. In the Decem- 
ber, 1905, number, in the recipe for roast 
goose, are sage and onion sprinkled on the in- 
side of the goose when a prune dressing is 
used? In the same magazine, what is the 
foundation on which the cheese cutlets are 
placed, and is the decoration on top sprigs of 
parsley?" 

Mint Sandwiches 
Cut white bread into slices one-fourth 
an inch thick. Cut the slices into such 
shapes as is desired, removing the 
crusts meanwhile. Spread the pre- 
pared bread very lightly with choice 
butter. Then press the candied mint 
leaves on to one-half of the slices, and 
cover them with the other half. Or 
beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a 
cream. Beat in one or two tablespoon- 
fuls of powdered sugar, a tablespoon- 
ful of lemon juice, and fresh mint 
leaves washed, dried, and chopped 
fine, to give the color and flavor desired. 
Use this as filling for bread prepared as 
above. 

Almond Griddle-cakes 

Sift together one cup and a fourth 
of sifted flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of salt, and two level teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder. Beat the yolk of an 
&gg, add a scant cup of milk, and stir 
into the dry ingredients. Then add 



two ounces of blanched almonds, 
chopped fine, and browned in the oven, 
and the white of one egg, beaten dry. 
Bake on a hot, well-oiled griddle, first 
on one side and then on the other. 

Indian Tapioca Pudding 

Scald one quart of milk in a double 
boiler. Then stir while sprinkling in 
one-fourth a cup of Indian meal and 
one-third a cup of quick-cooking tapi- 
oca. Continue the cooking and stirring 
until the tapioca becomes transparent. 
Then add two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, and one cup 
of molasses. Mix thoroughly, and turn 
into a buttered baking-dish. Pour 
over the mixture one cup and a half of 
cold milk, and set the dish into the 
oven without stirring in the milk. 
Bake about one hour. Serve with 
or without cream. 

Sauce to serve with Indian Pudding 

Cream and sugar are most commonly 
served with an Indian pudding. Oc- 
casionally vanilla ice-cream is used as 
a sauce. When the pudding "wheys, " 
the whey might be considered the only 
sauce needful. 

German Potato Pancake 

In a hot, well-oiled fr3dng-pan grate 
enough boiled potato, either hot or cold, 
to cover the bottom of the dish to the 
depth of half an inch. Dredge very 
lightly with salt, then pour over a 



io8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



batter made of one cup of flour, two 
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, two 
eggs, and about a cup of milk. Use 
enough of the batter to cover well the 
potato. When the pancake is full 
of bubbles and browned beneath, turn 
and brown the other side. 

Grape-fruit Cocktail 
Cut the grape-fruit* in halves across 
the grain, to form two portions. With 
a thin, sharp-pointed knife cut around 
the pulp in each section, close to the 
membrane, and lift out the triangular 
pieces of pulp. Chill these with all 
the juice from the fruit. When ready 
to serve, mix the chilled pulp and juice 
with a little powdered sugar, and, if 
desired, sherry wine or Jamaica rum, or 
with a little maraschino and one or two 
cherries. Serve in small glasses. 

Cherry Bisque with Candied Cherries 
and Rum 

At this season the bisque must, of 
course, ■ be made of canned cherries. 
Candied cherries might also be used 
if less rich fruit were not at hand. For 
the sake of color and shape candied 
cherries, one or two in each cup, might 
be added at the moment of serving. 
The cherries used should be tender 
enough to pass through a sieve. This 
pulp, with the juice, and water, if 
needed, should be thickened slightly 
with cornstarch. After cooking ten 
minutes, add the candied cherries, cut 
in halves (if canned cherries are at 
hand, a larger number may be used), 
and rum to flavor as desired. Serve 
in cups as a first course at luncheon. 
Pass at the same time crackers or toast, 
lightly wet with rum and sprinkled with 
sugar. The soup may be served cold, 
in which case it should be thickened 
but slightly. 

Banana Pie 
Pass enough peeled bananas through 
a vegetable ricer to fill a cup. To 



this add half a cup of sugar, two table- 
spoonfuls of molasses, or the grated 
rind and juice of half a lemon, half a 
teaspoonful of salt, one beaten egg, 
one-third a teaspoonful of cinnamon, 
half a cup of milk, and one-third a 
cup of cream. Mix all together thor- 
oughly, and bake until firm in a pie 
plate lined with pastry as for squash 
pie. 

Sage and Onion with Prune Dressing 

Omit dredging the inside of a goose 
with sage and onion when a prune 
dressing is to be used. Unless the 
goose be a very large one, half or three- 
fourths a cup of rice and other in- 
gredients accordingly will give enough 
stufiing. 

Foundation for Cheese Cutlets 

(December, I 905) 

For the foundation on which the 
cheese cutlets referred to stand, a hot- 
cooked cereal was moulded in a border 
mould. When cold and unmoulded, 
the cereal was brushed over with 
white of egg, sHghtly beaten, and then 
sprinkled with fine-chopped parsley. 
A paper aigrette or frill was inserted 
in the pointed end of the cutlets, and 
the open centre of the mould of cereal 
was filled with sprigs of parsley. 



Query 1176. — E. S. M., San Francisco, Cal.: 
"Recipe for Graham bread published about 
two years ago; also the recipe for preserving 
eggs supplied by the United States Agricultural 
Department," 

Graham Bread 
The recipe referred to was illustrated 
in Vol. VIII., and is as follows: Soften 
one-third a cake of compressed yeast 
in half a cup of water. Add a second 
half-cup of water, a cup of scalded and 
cooled milk, with two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and three 
tablespoonfuls of molasses. Stir in 
two cups and one-half of Graham 
flour and one cup and a half of white 



Queries and Answers 



209 



flour. Mix very thoroughly, but do 
not mould. Let stand over night. In 
the morning cut down with a knife, 
and turn into bread-pans. Shape 
with the knife, and, when again light, 
bake about one hour. 

Preserving Eggs 

(United States Agricultural Department) 
Fill an earthen or wateir-tight wooden 
vessel with^the eggs. To one part of 
water glass, also known as soluble 
glass and silicate of soda, add ten parts 
of tepid water, stirring the water thor- 
oughly and slowly into the water glass. 
When the resultant mixture is cold, 
pour it gently over the eggs, using suf- 
ficient to immerse them. Three pints 
of water glass and thirty pints, or fif- 
teen quarts, of water will generally 
cover fifty dozen eggs. Keep the 
vessel covered and in a cool place. 



the sauce aside, covered, in the sauce- 
pan, until cold. The shape of the cran- 
berries is well preserved in this sauce. 



Qu^RY 1 177. — Mrs. J. L. B., vSyracuse, N.Y.: 
"Recipes for cranberry jelly and cranberry 
sauce. Give recipes for sauce in which the 
skins are strained out, also in which they are 
left in the sauce." 

Cranberry Jelly 
Cook one quart of cranberries and 
one cup of water in a covered dish 
five or six minutes. Then with a 
pestle press them through a fine sieve. 
Stir in two cups of sugar ; and, without 
reheating, turn the mixture into a 
mould. 

Strained Cranberry Sauce 
Prepare as jelly in the recipe given 
above, except cook the cranberries in 
two cups of water. 

Cranberry Sauce, Unstrained 
Heat two cups, each, of sugar and 
water to the boiling-point. Add one 
quart of cranberries. Cover the sauce- 
pan, and let stand on the back of the 
range five minutes. Then move to 
the front of the range, and let cook 
five minutes after boiling begins. Set 



Query 1178. — A. H., Manhattan, N.Y.: 
"Kindly give an idea for a table at a fair to 
be held in November, with a table holding 
useful and sensible things that pertain to the 
kitchen." 

Table for Fair 

A booth fitted up as a Dutch house, 
with those attending at the booth in 
Dutch costumes, — two or three children 
wearing wooden shoes, Dutch caps 
with brass ornaments, etc., should be 
included among* the attendants, — is al- 
ways an attractive place. The things 
on sale might include buttermilk and 
fresh sweet milk by the glass, hot 
coffee, coffee cakes, doughnuts, potato 
salad, rye bread with anise or caraway 
seeds, goose eggs, smoked goose sand- 
wiches, pats of fresh butter and wooden 
prints for shaping butter, springerlie 
moulds and springerlie, egg rings and 
other small cakes. A study of Dutch 
prints will suggest ideas and ways of 
fitting up such a booth. 



Query 1179. — Madame G. E. Larin, Mon- 
treal, Canada: "Recipes for almond paste, 
Angelica wine, soup crecy, and nut custard 
pie. At what time of the meal are fruit salads 
and sweet entremets served?" 

Almond Paste 
The making of almond paste at 
home is a long and laborious process. 
It may be bought at any place where 
fancy groceries are kept, or of a baker 
or confectioner by the pound, or in 
five-pound cans. 

Angelica Wine 

Angelica wine is probably made from 
the roots or seeds of a plant of that 
name. The tubular, green, aromatic 
leaf stalks of this plant are candied and 
imported to this country for use in 
sweet dishes. This plant is also used in 



2IO 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



flavoring various spirituous compounds 
of Northern and Southern Europe. We 
do not think the plant is found in this 
country, and can suggest no recipe for 
making the wine. 

Soup Crecy 

Scrape, wash, and slice six fresh, 
bright-colored carrots. Put these into 
a saucepan with two onions, sliced, and 
two or three tablespoonfuls of butter or 
dripping. Stir frequently while cooking 
the vegetables to a bright brown color. 
Then add two quarts and a half of 
white broth, and let simmer gently 
until the carrots are tender, probably 
about forty minutes. -Press the whole 
through a sieve, and set over the fire 
to reheat. In the mean time melt one- 
fourth a cup of butter. Cook in this 
one-fourth a cup of flour and half a 
teaspoonful of salt. Stir in half a cup 
of cream, and then two cups of the 
puree. When the mixture boils, stir 
it gradually into the rest of the puree. 
Add more seasoning, if needed, and 
strain into the soup tureen. Pass 
croutons at the same time. 

Nut Custard Pie 
Add a cup or more of crushed nut 
meats to the eggs and sugar made ready 
for a custard pie. Add salt and milk, 
and bake as any custard pie. 

Time of Serving Fruit Salads, etc. 
A fruit salad, sweet or otherwise, is 
serv^ed after the main course of the meal, 
at the point where a sweet entremet 
would naturally appear if this dish were 
not ser^^ed. 



Query ii8o. — I. H. H.: "Recipe for mush- 
room soup made of dried Italian mushrooms." 

Mushroom Soup 
Cover one cup of dried mushrooms 
with cold water, and let them stand 
overnight. In the morning put them 
over the fire with half an onion, a stalk 
of celer)'-, two sprigs of parsley, and half 



a dozen slices of carrot, adding more 
water, if needed. Let the whole simmer 
until the mushrooms are tender. Then 
press the whole through a sieve, or pick 
out the vegetables and press the mush- 
rooms only through the sieve. To this 
puree add water or white stock to make 
one quart. Melt one-fourth a cup of 
butter. Cook in it one-fourth a cup of 
flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a 
teaspoonful of pepper. Add one quart 
of milk, and stir and cook until the 
sauce boils. Then add the puree, and, 
when again boiling, remove to a cooler 
part of the range. Add the yolks of 
two eggs, beaten and mixed wdth half 
or a whole cup of cream, and stir a few 
moments without boiling. Add more 
salt and pepper, if needed, and serve at 
once. 



Query ii8i.— H. W., Gloversville, N.Y.: 
"Are cereals in a milky state more easy of 
digestion than when they have reached a 
starchy stage of development? If so, why? 
Why is food in its natural state (vmcooked) 
considered more wholesome than cooked food? 
How are the chemical properties of food 
changed by application of heat or cold? 
Why is it stated that only half as much 
uncooked food as of cooked food is needed 
to sustain life? From a hygienic stand- 
point why should butter be eaten un- 
salted? Do starchy foods cause fermenta- 
tion in the stomach and a limy deposit in the 
bones? Wliy is fermentation one of the most 
deleterious processes known to culinary art? 
Why are baked potatoes more easy of diges- 
tion than potatoes cooked in any other way? 
What are the 'Rumford Kitchen Leaflets,' 
and how obtained? What causes some jelly 
to contain sugar crystals? Are the poisons 
that come from torn-down tissues and the 
urea of the animal still in the meat as eaten? 
Does the boiling of milk coagulate the proteid 
contained in it?" 

Digestion of Cereals in a Milky State 

Take, for example, corn ' 'in the milk " 
and corn past that stage, when the 
covering of the kernels is dry and hard, 
which is the more easily softened and 
transformed into body substance? 
WHiat is true of corn is true of all cereal 
substances. Much of the cellulose and 



Advertisements 




The Lady and 
the Grocer 

Said the Lady: "No other breakfast food has been 
used in our house since we tried Sanitas Toasted Com 
Flakes. The children want it for breakfast and lunch 
and dinner. We older folks are spoiled for anything 
else, because no other food has the delicious flavor of 
Sanitas Toasted Com Flakes. I never tasted anything 
like it. My husband says it's 'the angel cake of 
breakfast cereals.'" 



^^S^^ 



Two Minds withv I *^^J1^ 
A single Thought IIUkes I 




m 



2/ .' ""y'^^^ATTOe 



Said the Grocer: "You needn't advertise Sanitas 
Toasted Com Flakes in my towTi : it sells itself. The 
only fault I have to find wdth it is we can't get enough. 
They tell me the mills are working night and day to 
keep up v^th the demand, but that won't satisfy my cus- 
tomers. I never saw anything so popular since cereals 
were sold. I didn't know the reason until I started eat- 
ing it myself : nothing else ever tasted so good. It has 
a flavor all its own." 



Don't take a substitute. Get the genuine Sanitas Toasted 
Com Flakes. At all grocers*, 1 Oc. West of Rockies, 1 5c. 
Battle Creek Toasted Corn Flakes Co., - Battle Creek, Mich. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

ix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



starch in ripened or semi -ripened cereal 
products is in the form of sugar when 
the substance is in the milky state. 
Starch has to be changed to sugar before 
it can be assimilated by the body. 

Why is Uncooked Food considered 

More Wholesome than Cooked 

Food ? 

Do not think — speaking in a general 
way — that uncooked food is more 
wholesome than cooked food. A raw 
egg is more easily digested than a cooked 
one. So also is a raw beefsteak, if it 
he as palatable. But there are good 
and sufficient reasons why the most of 
us prefer our eggs, and especially our 
steak, cooked. A cooked apple may 
often be eaten when an uncooked one 
would cause digestive disturbance. 

Change of Chemical Properties in 

Food by Cooking 

Starch is changed to sweet substances 
akin to sugar, as in the crust of bread 
and baked potatoes, long, slow cooking 
of oatmeaL and breakfast foods. 

Why is less Uncooked than Cooked 

Food needed to sustain Life } 

In uncooked food none of the food 
compounds are lost, evaporated in too 
strong heat or dissolved in water that 
is thrown away. If cooking be properly 
conducted, no great proportion of the 
food elements should be lost in the 
process. Uncooked food requires more 
mastication than cooked, and thereby 
more of the food elements may be as- 
similated. 

Why Butter should be Unsalted 

Briefly, because we eat too much salt. 
Mineral matter is essential, especially 
in the food of the young, to build bone 
and sustain the integrity of the blood. 
We ought to get this matter in our food 
in sufficient quantity; but we have 



come, largely through custom, to think 
we do not get enough chloride of 



A Food Convert 

Good Food the True Road to Health 

The pernicious habit some persons 
still have of relying on nauseous drugs 
to relieve dyspepsia keeps up the 
patent medicine business, and helps 
keep up the army of dyspeptics. 

Indigestion — dyspepsia — is caused 
by what is put into the stomach in the 
way of improper food, the kind that 
so taxes the strength of the digestive 
organs they are actually crippled. 

When this state is reached, to resort 
to stimulants is like whipping a tired 
horse with a big load. Every addi- 
tional effort he makes under the lash 
increases his loss of power to move the 
load. 

Try helping the stomach by leaving 
off heavy, greasy, indigestible food, 
and take on Grape-nuts — light, easily 
digested, full of strength for nerves 
and brain in every grain of it. There's 
no waste of time or energy when Grape- 
nuts is the food. 

' ' I am an enthusiastic user of Grape- 
nuts, and consider it an ideal food," 
writes a Maine man. 

"I had nervous dyspepsia and was 
all run down, and my food seemed to 
do me but little good. From reading 
an advertisement I tried Grape-nuts 
food, and, after a few weeks' steady 
use of it, felt greatly improved. 

"Am much stronger, not nervous 
now, and can do more work without 
feeling so tired, and am better every 
way. 

* * I relish Grape-nuts best with cream, 
and use four heaping teaspoonfuls at a 
meal. I am sure there are thousands 
of persons with stomach trouble who 
would be benefited by using Grape - 
nuts." Name given by Postum Com- 
pany, Battle Creek, Mich. Read the 
little book, "The Road to Wellville," 
in packages. "There's a reason." 



Advertisements 







^m^ 



Varieties 




Meat 




'i'j 



Take the choicest beef and the finest white 
suet; select the most luscious apples; procure 
the finest Valencia confection raisins and the 
plumpest Grecian currants, each one carefully 
cleansed and seeded ; get the richest candied 
citron, orange and lemon peel — the purest spices 
ground for the purpose, and you have the good 
things composing Heinz Mince Meat — one of the 
Heinz 57 Varieties. 

Now, prepare them in a Kitchen where 
cleanliness has been reduced to a science, blend 
them so skillfully that the glorious flavor never 
varies the slightest degree; seal the result in 
sterilized jars, crocks and tins and you have 
solved the secret of the quality and purity of 
Heinz Mince Meat. 

But can you do it? Hardly, for nowhere 
else can be found the perfect equipment and 
exact methods of the Heinz Model Kitchens. 
Therefore, it pays not only in economy, but in 
results, to buy Heinz Mince Meat. 

Some other Heinz dainties for the Thanks= 
giving season are Preserved Fruits, Fruit Jellies, 
Apple Butter, Cranberry Sauce, Euchred Figs, 
Sweet Midget Pickles, etc. 

Sold by all grocers. Let us send 
a copy of "The Spice of Life, " 

H. J. HEINZ COMPANY 

New York Pittsburgh Cliicaso London 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



sodium (common salt) in this way, 
and so add it to most articles of food. 
But salt is a condiment, and the appe- 
tite for it grows, more and more of it 
being demanded to satisfy us. In the 
manufacture of butter this salty sub- 
stance, present originally in the milk, 
is partially, at least, lost, and thus 
naturally, though chiefly on account of 
perverted taste, salt is added to butter. 
Probably with a varied diet, in which 
green, uncooked vegetables and fruit 
are given ample place, unsalted butter 
might be eaten with advantage to the 
system. There is also a question 
whether mineral matter in a free or 
unorganized condition (as salt, sulphur 
phosphorus, etc.) can take the place 
in the economy of nature of the 
mineral matter combined with other 
elements in a food substance. 

Starchy Foods, Fermentation, and 
Limy Deposits 
Starchy or vegetable foods, espe- 
cially in combination with sugar, are 
very prone to fermentation. This is 
the reason why a cup of coffee sweetened 
with sugar or a dish of sweetened 
oatmeal produces, under certain con- 
ditions, an acid state of the stomach. 
Grains are thought to contain a com- 
paratively large proportion of mineral 
matter. This is needed by growing 
children for the making of bone and 
teeth. In adults, who do not need 
building material, an excess of such 
matter taken into the system may be 
deposited in the joints to the detriment 
of health. 

Why Fermentation is a Deleterious 
Process in Culinary Art 

The dio:estive fluids contain several 



Husband Deceived 

But Thanked his Wife Afterwards 

A man ought not to complain if his 
wife puts up a little job on him, when 



he finds out later that it was all on 
account of her love for him. Mighty 
few men would. 

Sometimes a fellow gets so set in his 
habits that some sort of a ruse must 
be employed to get him to change, and 
if the habit, like excessive coffee-drink- 
ing, is harmful, the end justifies the 
means — if not too severe. An Illinois 
woman says: — 

' ' My husband used coffee for twenty- 
five years and almost every day. 

' ' He had a sour stomach (dyspepsia) 
and a terrible pain across his kidneys 
a good deal of the time. This would 
often be so severe he could not 
straighten up. His complexion was 
a yellowish-brown color. The doctors 
said he had liver trouble. 

"An awful headache would follow 
if he did not have his coffee at every 
meal, because he missed the drug. 

"I tried to coax him to quit coffee, 
but he thought he could not do with- 
out it. Our little girl three years old 
sat by him at table, and used to reach 
over and drink coffee from papa's cup. 
She got like her father, — her kidneys 
began to trouble her. 

"On account of the baby I coaxed 
my husband to get a package of Postum. 
After the first time he drank it, he had 
a headache and wanted his coffee. We 
had some coffee in the house, but I 
hid it, and made Postum as strong as 
I could, and he thought he was having 
his coffee, and had no headaches. 

"In one week after using Postum 
his color began to improve, his stomach 
got right, and the little girl's kidney 
trouble was soon all gone. My hus- 
band works hard, eats hearty, and 
has no stomach or kidney trouble any 
more. After he had used Postum a 
month, without knowing it, I brought 
out the coffee. He told me to throw 
it away." Name given by Postum 
Company, Battle Creek, Mich. Read 
the little book, "The Road to Well- 
ville," in packages. "There's a rea- 
son." 



xu 



Advertisements 



This is the mark that identifies pure confections. 

Not any kind in particular but all our confections 

in general. It is the new method of distinguishing 

all that is pure, wholesome and satisfying in candy. 

If yo\i want sweets that will do you good, that are 

delicate in flavor and absolutely safe, look for the seal 

of Necco Sweets. For example, you will find it on 



.o^^e.o\^'^^^ 



Most tempting in their variety of delicious flavors — by far 
the most exquisite chocolates you ever tasted. Is this 
protection not a valuable thing for you .? Try a box of 
Lenox Chocolates and learn for yourself the meaning 
of Necco Sweets. For sale by all confectioners 
and druggists. 

NEW ENGLAND CONFECTIONERY CO., Boston, Mass. 



Tf'Aden&rk 



-BOSTOn- 



RAE'S LUCCA OIL 

IS JUST 

"The Perfection of 
OHve Oil." 



Made from sound, ripe olives grown in Tuscany, "the 
Garden of Italy." Its ABSOLUTE PURITY is 
vouched for by United States government analysis. 




SOLD IN BOTTLES AND TINS OF VARIOUS SIZES. 



S. RAE & CO., 

LEGHORN, TUSCANY, ITALY 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ferments, each of which has a definite 
function to perform in bringing about 
the changes which fit food to be as- 
similated by the body or eHminated 
from it. Among these ferments are 
trypsin, which curdles milk, amylop- 
sin, which finishes in the intestines 
the digestion of starch begun in the 
mouth by the ferment ptyalin. If, 
through eating underbaked bread, im- 
proper fermentation be started in the 
stomach, the whole digestive system 
is thrown into disorder. 

Digestibility of Baked Potatoes 

Baked potatoes are cooked at a 
high temperature, and the conversion 
of starch to sweet substance (easy of 
digestion), akin to sugar is carried 
to a greater degree than in potatoes 
cooked at 212° F., the boihng-point of 
water. 

Rumford Kitchen Leaflets 
A collection of leaflets on various 
subjects connected with the kitchen 
and the chemistry of food by Mrs. 
KUen H. Richards and others now 
bound in book form. These leaflets 
were originally put on sale at the 
Chicago World's Fair, at a model 
kitchen named after Count Rumford. 
Hence the name of the leaflets. The 
book may be procured of Whitcomb 
& Barrows, Boston. 

Crystals in Jelly 
We have seen the crystals to which 
you refer, if we remember aright, in 
no jelly save that made of grapes, and 
in that principally when the grapes 
have been over-ripe. Suppose these 
acid crystals to be similar to those 
found in wine casks, and from which 
cream of tartar is made. 

Poisons in Meat as Eaten 

French authorities affirm that even 
tainted meat may be so thoroughly 
cooked that no digestive disturbance 
will ensue from eating it, but, as meat 
is ordinarily cooked and eaten, no 
very great change in substance has 
taken place. 



Boiling of Milk 
As albuminous matter coagulates 
some time before the boihng-point 
is reached, it is evident that such 
constituents of boiled milk have been 
coagulated. 

After Breakfast Chat 

{Concluded from page 199.) 

sung by poets, and extolled by epi- 
cures," are promised in the near future 
in all localities suitable to their growth. 
Though the canned truffles are said to 
possess scarcely a semblance of the 
fresh product, they are considered a 
choice tidbit. A truffled turkey may 
be enriched with all the truffles one 
may care to purchase, and the can 
will undoubtedly be emptied. 

In making many entrees, a full can, 
though a small one, may not be re- 
quired. The residue, covered with 
wine, in a cup from which the air may 
be excluded, may be kept for weeks. 
So olives, opened for some special 
occasion, when all are not required, 
may be kept almost indefinitely if 
olive oil be poured into the bottle. 
The oil, being light, rises to the top of 
the liquid in which the olives were 
stored, and thus keeps out the air. 
A can of pimentos — a piece of one is 
often desired — may probably be kept, 
after opening, in the same way. Pi- 
mentos, passed through a fine sieve, 
may be used in mayonnaise in place of 
the freshly cooked pepper referred to 
in the recipe. 

Te A^etroj dla«asa fferms aad foul ffftses, the waste-pipas. 
Minks, closets, cellars, and every suspected spot snoola 
M refftUarly purified witli 

Chlorides 

Disinfectant* 

Sold in quart bottles only, by druggists and high-class grocers. 
An illustrated booklet with valuable sanitary hints mailed fret. 
AMgm» HSMRY B. PLATT, 4a Clifi Street, New York 



When you write advertisers, pk 



mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 
xiv 



Advertisements 



Something 

NEW! 

The range that so many have been wishing for — the range that ^^ ^^ 
we have for years been hoping to produce. We have it in the ftlj^^^ 

PALACE \B 

/retwfbrd 

^^^^^^^^^ We have in this range done away with the awkward old 
^^^^^^ end hearth, — always in the way and taking valuable room. 

We have provided a place and a receptacle for the ashes which make their removal 
simple and cleanly, and the grate will last longer with the ashes so far below it. 

There is more room on ihe top of this range because of 
the extra end shelf, yet i^ occupies less kitchen space. 
We have made a place for the coal-hod — alongside the 
ash -hod, — out of the way. 

All of the other famous and exclusive Crawford improved 
features are present : 

1. The Single Damper (patented). One move- 
ment regulates fire and oven. Worth the price of 
the range. 

2. Improved Dock- ash Gratd (patented). 
Makes a better, steadier fire — one that will keep 



overnight. Saves fuel. 





Cup-joint Oven 
Flues. Prevent 
heat leakage and in- 
sure better baking. 
4. Perfected 
Oven. Extra 

large, asbestos- lined, heat-saving back, revolving bottom, 
five heights for racks. The quickest, surest baker and 
most perfectly controlled oven ever made. 
5« Reliable Oven Indicator. Tells the heat of 
the oven accurately. Entirely outside of the oven 
and consequently not affected by grease, smoke, etc. 

Send for Illustrated Catalogue of onr many styles of ranges. 

Crawfords have more improvements than all others combined. 



WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO., 31-35 Union St., BOSTON 

Proprietors of the Finest Stove Foundry in the World 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



IM Humphrey 



Two Stoves — 
a fiant heater 
and a 
cooker—, 
in one 



Oval 




Gas 
Stove 



is guaranteed to be the 
most economical gas 

heating stove made, and 
the only one that forces 
the heat out along: the 

floor where most 

needed. 

$2.50 



AT ALL DEALERS 

or express prepaid from 

us. Made of copper 

plated, die-pressed steel, 

all heavily, 

beautifully 

nickeled. 

10 Days 
Trial 

Order a stove to- 
day. If for any 
reason you are 
dissatisfied with your purchase, return it at our expense 
and get your money baclc. Catalogs free. Write today. 

HUMPHREY CO. — Dept. C.S. 11 ^ KALAMAZOO, MICH. 

Largest Manufacturers Instantaneous Water ffeaters in the 
World. Write for Water Heater Catalog. 



The saving quickly pays 
for the stove. 




A New Dainty- 

__Rosette Wafers 

Crisp and delicious— for breakfast, luncheon 
Or afternoon tea. 

Made with the thinnest of baiter and a novel 
little iron. Any woman can make forty 
of thenx In 20 minutes at a cost of 10 cts. 

All the best dealers sell these Irons at 50c a. set. 

If your dealer does not sell them, send us 70c 
and we will mail you a set postpaid. 

FREE— Mention vour dealer's name when writ- 
ing, and we will give you a book of 30 new recipes 
telling how to serve these wafers, and our interesting 
catalogue of culinary novelties. 

ALFRED ANDRESEN & COMPANY 

, ^" - ' S., Minneapolis, Minn. 




DAINTY 
HOUSEKEEPERS 

PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POUSH. 

Joseph Dixon Crucible Company, 
Jersey Gty, N. J 



Foreign Pensions 

(Contimied from page 202.) 

express a longing for pie. I know one 
American family, settled down to house- 
keeping in London, who had a dozen 
pie plates sent over from this country, 
in order that they might indulge in 
that popular - dish. (A pie plate can- 
not be bought in England.) This re- 
minds me that during a conversation 
with an English friend I referred to pie, 
and he declared that he had heard 
much of the article, and was curious 
to taste it; that, if I could tell his wife 
how it was made, we would enjoy its 
juicy deliciousness. My knowledge of 
its manufacture was extremely limited, 
to an occasional sight of the work in 
progress at home; but the good lady 
grasped the problem at a glance, as 
it were, saying it differed from the 
tart only in the amount of filling and 
the under crust. 

The next day I was invited to dine 
with them: soup, jugged hare, broiled 
fresh pork, greens, onions, and Brus- 
sels sprouts, — that was English in 
every line. For dessert the pie (?). 
We had discussed it in all its aspects 
before it was brought to the table; 
and, when it was set before my hostess, 
she confessed that she could not obtain 
a plate such as I had described, but had 
used what she thought would answer 
the purpose. It was a small shallow 
vegetable dish, at the bottom of which 
had been placed a layer of dough 
about half an inch thick, almost filling 
the dish. On top of that had been 
sliced two apples, and this was covered 
with a blanket of dough of the same 
thickness as the under crust. 

London is a baker's paradise. 
Bread-making seems to be a lost art 
with the housekeepers of the metropolis. 
It would be interesting to know the 
number of famiUes that make their 
own bread. Yeast in any form is al- 
most unknown. However, the baker 
always is to be depended upon, and 
the variety of bread, from the ugly- 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XX 



Advertisements 




Do you know what comfort there is in a 
PERFECTION Oil Heater? Do you know that 
without any fuss or bother you can quickly warm a cold 
room, a chilly hallway, heat water, and do many other 
things with the PERFECTION Oil Heater that are imprac- 
ticable with a gas heater, coal or wood stove ? 

There may be some particular room that you cannot heat 
with ordinary methods ; the furnace heat may not reach all the 
rooms ; you cannot carry a stove about. All these difficulties 
are easily overcome with the PERFECTION Oil Heater. 

Light it, turn the wick up as high as it will go without 
forcing. To extinguish it turn it as low as you can, there is 
no danger. It can be easily carried around from room to 
room. Now in a bedroom, then in a hall, heating a living 
room,— anywhere from basement to attic it imparts warmth 
and coziness as no other oil heater will. The 

PERFECTION 

Oir Heater 

(Equipped with Smolceless Device) 

gives intense heat and is as easy to operate as a lamp. It 
cannot smoke because the smokeless device prevents turning 
the wick too high. The oil fount and the wick carrier are 
made of brass throughout,— which insures durability. The 
fount is beautifully embossed, holds four quarts of oil and 
bums nine hours. Made in two finishes,— nickel and japan. 
An ornament to any room. For general excellence the 

PERFECTION OU Heater cannot be equalled. 

Every heater warranted. If you cannot get 
heater or information from your dealer, write 
to our nearest agency for descriptive circular. 



LAMP can be used in any room and is the safest 

and best lamp for all-round household use. It is 

equipped with the latest improved burner,— gives a 

bright light at small cost. Absolutely safe. All parts 

easily cleaned. Made of brass throughout and nickel plated. Suitable for 

library, dining-room, parlor or bedroom. Every lamp warranted. If you 

cannot get the /^M/f} lamp from your dealer, write to nearest agency. 

STANDARD OIL COMPANY 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Peter Cooper's 

CLARIFIED 

GELATINE 

For Wine Jellies 

Blanc-mange 
Charlotte Russb 

PURE AND WHOLESOME 

Our Pulverized Gelatine is the 
most convenient for family use. 
Dissolves in a few minutes. 

An 8-cent package 
makes two quarts. 
Cheapest and best. 

For sale by all grocers. 

S. S. PIERCE COMPANY, Boston, Mass. 

cTVlanufacturers' tAgents. 



Ice-cream 
Always 

iri 
Season 
Junket 
Tablets 

Make 
the Best 

We mail postpaid ten tablets to make ten 
quarts for ten cents, and give you the charm- 
ing brochure, " Junket Dainties," free. 

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 
Box 2507. Little Falls, N.Y. 



looking, round workingman's loaf to 
the dainty French roll, is almost un- 
limited. But the way it is carted 
round the streets would shock a New 
England housewife. Almost "any old 
thing" in the shape of a vehicle answers 
the purpose of conveying it from bak- 
ery to customer: push-carts, coster- 
wagons, tricycles, etc., are called into 
service; and the loaves are piled up 
in the open, like so much cord -wood, 
and carried, hugged in the arms of the 
dirt-begrimed driver, to the kitchen. 
Many times I have seen a loaf fall to 
the greasy, muddy street, to be picked 
up and polished on the sleeve of the 
driver. 

Milk is delivered much as we handle 
kerosene. A great brass tank is fas- 
tened to a push-cart or some other form 
of vehicle. At the bottom of this tank 
is a faucet through which the milk is 
drawn into tins of various capacity 
that dangle from the sides of the wagon. 
In some cases the tank is sunk in the 
wagon, and the fluid is ladled out or 
bailed out with one of the tins. Imag- 
ine the condition of those wide-mouth 
cans after several hours' exposure to 
rain or dust ! I have frequently seen 
the milkman wash his tin with milk 
before filling it for the customer. 

Fruit is not nearly so good as we have 
in New England. I refer to the ordi- 
nary quality. Of course, you can get 
fancy stock, but the price is exorbitant. 
For instance, in a store in Regent 
Street, I have seen apples at one shilling 
each; peaches at one shilling and six- 
pence; strawberries, twelve in a box, 
at six shillings; oranges, one shilling; 
pineapples, eight shillings; and grapes 
at six to ten shillings per pound. But, 
taking the cost, even in excess of what 
is paid here, the fruit was inferior. 
The bananas come from the Canary 
Islands, and were small and very 
sweet. Oranges from France were 
small, with tough fibre and large seeds, 
while the apples generally are inferior. 



When you writ^ advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisement 



Quilted 
Mattress Pads 



fl Money spent wisely means comfort 
and pleasure to the spender. You 
go to bed to rest. Quilted Mattress 
Pads will make your bed comfortable 
as well as keep yours and baby's bed 
in a perfect sanitary condition. 

flThe cost is small, and when 
washed they are as good as new. 

flAsk your dry goods dealer. 



EXCELSIOB QUILTING COMPANY 

15 Laight Sfrcct, New YorK, N.Y. 



iSawyer's 




60 YEARS 

THE PEOPLE'S 

CHOICE 



CRYSTAI^ 



ER CRYSTAL BLUE CO. 



] 

Blue! 

For the 

Laundry 

DOUBLE 

►Jl STRENGTH 

Sold in 

Sprinkling 
Top Bottles 

Sawyer's Blue 

gives a beautiful 

tint and restores the 

color to linen, laces 

and goods that are 

worn and faded. 

tt goes twice as far ^ 
MS Other Blues \ 



^Be Sure You Get C/iiBfX7Ai**c# 

(From Your Dealer OflWyer 5 J 



Table China and Glass 



ADAPTED TO 



Hotels, Clubs, and Families. 

Intending buyers will find an extensive 
stock to choose from in 



Dinner Sets. 

All values. 

Pudding Sets. 
Fish Sets. 



Salad Sets. 
Ice-cream Sets. 
Oyster Plates. 



Also single dozens of China Plates for course 
dinners; also 

Bouillon Cups and Saucers. 
Ramekins, all values. 

French Porcelain Souffle Dishes. 
Paris Cafe Entree Dishes. 
Covered Cheese Dishes. 
Fireproof Welsh Rarebit Dishes. 

Umbrella and Cane Holders, Ferneries for 
Table Decorations, Plant Pots, and Pedestals. 

In the Dinner Set Department will be seen 
many attractive Sfock Patterns always readily 
matched, also other designs not to be 
duplicated. 

In the enlarged Glass Department (second 
floor) an Extensive Exhibit of 

Finger Bowls, Vases, Cocktails, Roemers, 

Sorbets, Creme de flenthes, Cordials, 

Lemonades, Champagnes, 

Hocks, Decanters, 

Carafes, etc. 

In the GLASS DEPARTMENT will also 
be found all grades, from the low-cost pressed 
ware to the etched and costly rich cut speci- 
mens adapted to Wedding Gifts. 

Rare and odd China Pitchers, from the 
ordinary up to the costly. Over 8oo kinds 
to choose from. 

In brief, everything pertaining to crockery, 
porcelain , and glassware conn ected with home, 
hotel, and club, in sets or parts of sets up to 
the costly table services. Inspection invited. 



Jones, McDuffee & Stratton Go. 

CHINA, GLASS, AND LAMPS 

(ten floors) 
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 

33 FranklinStreet, cor. Hawley, Boston. 

Near Washington and Summer Streets. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



VS^e Drink 

OLD CRIST MILL 

WHEAT COFFEE 

Because it tastes good 

and it 

Makes us Strong. 

Why don't you try it ? 





UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 

In camp, picnic* or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
one deviled ham— Underwood's Red Devil Brand, 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
dxeese, • Send for book of 4^ prize receipts. 

WH. VNDERWOOD CO.. BOSTON, MASS, 



Baldwin or pie apples were sold for 
table fruit. 

But these are observ^ations in Lon- 
don and some of the larger cities. It 
is quite different in rural England, a 
garden spot of earth. 



Rev. Edward A. Horton told this 
story at a banquet of the Ancient and 
Honorable Artillery Company. A 
woman went marketing in Faneuil 
Hall. She stopped before a stall where 
fowl were displayed. "What do" you 
sell those for?" inquired the woman, 
wondering if the proprietor would dare 
call them chickens. "We usually sell 
them for profits, marm," was the curt 
response. "Oh," said the woman, "I 
thought they were patriarchs." 



An excited individual ran up to a 
porter at a railway station, and asked, 
"Have you seen a parcel I left on this 
seat?" The porter replied that he had 
not. "Oh, what shall I do?" ex- 
claimed the excited passenger: "it 
contains three poems I have written!" 
"Can't you write them again?" asked 
the unsympathetic porter. "Yes, I 
can do that, but [hesitatingly] there 
were two sandwiches in the parcel as 
well." — Christian World. 



T 



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H Adapted to many uses other than for measuring, of great 
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raise their heads from the pillow it is extremely convenient. 
II For a baby's spoon it has no equal, both in feeding and 
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Dinner to Napoleon Copied even 
to Menu 

At a cookery exhibit held in Paris an 
interesting feature was the reproduc- 
tion of a dinner offered to Napoleon I. 
exactl}^ one hundred years before by 
Prince Talleyrand, his famous foreign 
minister. 

It was an elaborate repast for twenty- 
six persons, and the original menu of 
i8o6, prepared by Talle>Tand's famous 
cook, Careme, was faithfully followed. 
The pots and pans used and the table 
upon which the dishes were prepared 
were actually the same as used at 
Talleyrand's house a hundred years 
ago. 

A Kansas City woman, says the Kan- 
sas City Times, tells this story of her 
husband. One morning he glanced 
at the dining-room clock, and said, "We 
must be later than usual this morning." 
"Don't place too much confidence in 
that clock. It stopped at five o'clock, 
and I just set it by guess," replied the 
good wife. "Were you up at five 
o'clock?" asked the husband. "Of 
course not." "If you w^eren't up at 
five," replied the man, puzzled, "how 
do you know when the clock stopped ?' ' 
"Why, dear, it stayed stopped," was 
the reply. The man did not say another 
word that morning. 



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J?0r ^nu gah^ inttlj a smtb, aa a fri^ttb to atwtlifr. 
(^ah tmsth nxB t\^t hollar ^on gah?, fnr gnu rlftb, 
Anh mab? m? to kttota ioliat tt hiaa tl^at gnu btb. 
Hull rljaritg to mp gou gah? m? tl|^ first, 
Siut hiitli rlyaritg to mt tlj? BKonh gnu rurs^b. 

EDMUND VANCE COOKE, 

In the Century Magazine. 





The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. XI. 



DECEMBER 



No. 5. 



A Chinese Christmas Tree 

By Jessie Juliet Knox 

Author of ^'Little Almond Blossoms^' 



IT a Christmas tree is delightful to 
American people, who haA^e had 
an intimate acquaintance with the 
festivities of Yule-tide since childhood, 
and thoroughly understand all the 
stereotyped ways of celebrating this 
happy time, try and imagine what a 
Christmas tree would mean to a crowd 
of heathen women and children upon 
seeing it for the first time. 

In all the larger towns of California 
there are the Chinese quarters, or 
"Chinatowns." Upon the streets one 
may always see a great many Chinese 
men and boys. They are privileged 
because of their sex; but a stranger 
would not know that these men and 
boys have mothers, wives, and sisters 
hidden away in the dark and mysterious 
recesses of Chinatown, because they 
are too precious to be exposed to the 
gaze of the common herd, and so are 
kept behind bolts and bars, sometimes 
where ncA^er a sunbeam can find its 
way. 

It is only the women of low class who 
have the freedom of the streets. To 
be a real lady of high caste means al- 
ways to be a prisoner. The magic key 
that opens the door to these prisons is 
Love. Very few have the key. The 
very largest key of love, we think, is 



owned by the noted Donaldine Cameron^ 
rescuer of Chinese slave-girls in the 
city of San Francisco. 

And we are glad that we also hcive a 
little key, for, if we had not, our delight- 
fully unique Christmas tree could never 
have been given, and forty-five heathen 
hearts would have inissed being happy 
and free for a few hours. 

The city of San Jose, Cal., has 
its Chinatown; and we, being filled 
with an overwhelming love for the 
Chinese people, and having made a. 
study of them for eight years and 
become a really and truly pong yow 
(good friend), conceived the idea of at 
least making the effort to give the 
Chinese women and children a Christmas 
tree. None knew better than we the 
difference between in-citing them to 
come and having them really come. 
We look back now and wonder at our 
boldness, and how we could ever have 
believed they would really come. Not 
but that they wished to come. Oh, 
yes! Every one of them would haA^e 
giA^en anything in the world to be 
present; but a Chinese woman is so 
accustomed to haAdng no will of her 
own, and to having it dinned into her 
ears that she must ncA'er be seen and 
must stay shut up like a bird in a cage, 



^14 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



that this seemed the most terrible 
undertaking imaginable. 

No free American woman could 




Girls in Chinese Mission 

possibly have the least idea what a 
venture this would be to a timid little 
Chinese lady. It was overpowering, and 
they just could not get up the courage 
to ask permission of their liege lords. 
But here the key of love began to work ; 
and, taking that xesponsibility from 
them, we boldly approached the stern 
lords of the manor, used every argument 
imaginable, met diplomacy with diplo- 
macy, and — won the day ! At least, 
they all promised, but still — we could 
not believe. 

When we had time to think, we paused 
in affright. How could we ever have 
had the assurance to think for a mo- 
ment that such a thing could be done? 
It never had been done. But the 
Chinese are a grateful people, and now 
did not forget who had been their 
friend, and w^ho had stood by them in 
trouble of all kinds for so many years. 
When they thought of all the things 
that love had done for them, they could 
not refuse. 

Christmas Day dawned as beautifully 
as if it knew the dear little Chinese 
women were not accustomed to battling 
with the elements, and could not have 
ventured out if it had stormed. It 
was a typical California Christmas, — 



balmy as spring, the air full of the song 
of birds and the delicate perfumes of 
winter flowers. 

We could not have the pleasure of 
receiving our Chinese guests, but then 
one could not expect everything. They 
had all told us they could not come 
unless we came after them; and, as 
that w^as the only way, we went. Fear 
still tugged at our heart, though, for 
we realized more and more the magni- 
tude of the undertaking. 

We went early, for generalh^ the 
Chinese people are not punctual. Upon 
reaching the first home, we could have 
cried aloud for joy. There must be 
some mistake ! There were the ' ' little- 
footed" ladies — the creme de la creme 
of Chinese aristocracy — dressed as elab- 
orately as if for a court function, and 
their dimpled, tea-rose children jumping 
around like bits of rainbows, and squeal- 
ing with delight. This was too good 
to be true. Surely, the opium goddess 
must have filled my brain with visions. 
Ah ! now we could make the rounds 





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Oriental Loveliness 



A Chinese Christmas Tree 



21 



with a light heart. Up ladders and 
down into cellars we went, through 
gambling-houses and into high-binders' 




High-class Children 

dens, up next the roof and every- 
where, and the key of love opened all 
the doors. 

Not one of our Chinese friends failed 
us. 

When at last, after much chattering 
and giggling, we had collected our 
forces, we started out. 

We almost extended the 
whole length of the main 
street, because they had to 
walk, Chinese fashion, one be- 
hind the other. Both hands 
were held tightly by the 
brown fingers of two pict- 
uresque tots, while others 
clutched jealously at our 
skirts. 

We had not, at first, 
thought of having any 
American people at our 
house; but the news of our 
Chinese entertainment soon 
spread, and many friends 
asked if they might come and 
take a peep, and we could not 
refuse. After all, it would 
have been selfish, to shut others out 
from such a rare sight. 

As we wandered on, — the aristocrats, 
and those with young babies following 



in carriages, — we caused a great deal of 
excitement. 

The Chinamen all rushed into the 
streets, gazing at all this 
Oriental loveliness. We are 
afraid some of them, who 
were too poor to afford such 
a commodity, coveted their 
neighbors' wives at that mo- 
ment; but, at any rate, all 
were smiling, for who could 
frown on so dazzling a 
picture ? 

At last our gay procession 
arrived. The little-footed 
aristocrats were helped out 
of the carriages, and toddled 
into the house. The Ameri- 
can ladies who received for 
me were all gowned in the 
most exquisite shorn (blouses) and foo 
(trousers), which caused a great deal of 
merriment among the Celestial guests. 
All the Am.ericafi people had been taken 
into the large parlors, and were waiting 
in breathless expectancy the coming of 
the Chinese. 

The library was packed with Chinese 



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Mother and Daughter 

ladies. They were all pictures of Ori- 
ental loveliness, with their gay silken 
robes and jewel-decked coiffures; but 
far more beautiful were the dear little 



2l6 



»The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Chinese Sisters 

tea-rose tots, giggling in true Chinese 
fashion, and running over with the 
joy of the unexplored Christmas mys- 
teries, which had never before been 
unfolded to their wondering almond 
eyes. All were arrayed in gorgeous 
silks and satins of the most vivid 
tints, having assumed their New Year 
garb in honor of this great event. 

Even before entering the door, one 
might easily see that there was some- 
thing Oriental going on inside; and 
Chinamen who happened to pass the 
house that day were consumed with 
curiosity and bent double with laughter, 
because some of the Chinese writing 
was upside down, and they could not 
understand all those New Year papers 
on an American house. According to 
the Chinese New Year custom, red 
papers were over the front door, and 
at the side was the omnipresent bowl 
of punks, which the Chinese keep ever 
burning for the idols. 

The reception hall was a charming 
bit of the Orient. Here Chinese em- 



broideries draped the doors, while in 
lieti of portieres the great "dragon 
lanterns" were used, a row of them 
illuming the darkness and shedding 
their soft light over the scene. 

In the "cosey corner" was the in- 
evitable "god shelf" of the Chinese, 
where the stolid clay god was being 
honored by little bowls of food and 
wine set before him. 

Chinese cushions were on the couch, 
embroidered dragons were on the wall, 
Chinese tea sets on the table, and 
quantities of long red slips of paper, 
with Chinese names inscribed thereon. 
These are the New Year's calling cards 
of the Chinese. 

At all the doors were bowls of punks, 
filling the rooms with Oriental aroma, 
and red papers were everywhere. Great 
masses of holly berries brightened the 
scene, as that is the color of "Chinese 
red," — with them the color of joy. 

When all had arrived, the doors 
were opened, and the radiant mass of 
Celestials, now feverishly expectant, 
were ushered into the mysterious 
Christmas room. 




In Rich Attire 



A Chinese Christmas Tree 



217 



vSome one attempted to play a march 
for their triumphal entrance into the 
room; but, no! Heathen ears, which 
had hitherto known nothing save the 
banging of tom-toms and the shrill 
pipings of the Chinese flageolet, could 
not keep time to the tune of civilized 
melody. 

So we personally conducted and 
guided the timid, toddling guests into 
the large rooms. At last the 
feat was accomplished, and 
now came the supreme mo- 
ment for both American and 
Chinese guests. 

If they had not smiled, 
you might never have known 
how beautiful they were; but 
now, — ah, now! — when they 
caught sight of the great, 
glittering tree of the Christ 
Child, all sparkles and light, 
they were transformed, and 
all at the same time became 
little children. For — would 
you believe it? — some of 
these delightful little heathen 
mothers, as well as all the 
children, believed — really be- 
lieved — in the existence of 
Santa Claus. 

The children were all 
seated upon the floor near the 
tree. Their great almond 
eyes sparkled with delight. 
Just think! It was the first 
time they had ever seen a 
Christmas tree! 

And now the preacher, who was the 
only Chinese man present, made a 
prayer in their own language. We did 
not understand, of course; but, then, 
it was not our tree. He spoke to 
heathen hearts, and they understood. 

The distributing of the gifts was so 
hysterically real and pathetic that we, 
being Santa Claus, had to turn aside 
and give a furtive dab at our eyes, 
and we think some tears fell into the 
wide, peacock-embroidered sleeves of 
the blouse we had donned. 



We never knew before how happy it 
makes one to give happiness to those 
who really need it. 

We had not dared invite the really 
and truly Santa Claus, for the Chinese 
women and children had told me they 
would be afraid of him, as they had 
heard he had such long whiskers. 

After the gifts had been distributed, 
the guests were invited into the dining- 




Aristocrats 

room, where things were even more 
Oriental. One felt as if entering a joss 
house (temple). One whole side of the 
room was completely covered with the 
gods which the Chinese worship. These 
are on huge paper panels, and are 
extremely showy. In front of the gods 
was the table of offerings, an exact 
representation of the one which the 
Chinese people always set before the 
idols at their New Year time. 

Everything was done just as the 
Chinese do it. The guests were then 



aiS 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



given real Chinese tea and cakes, serv^ed 
in the real Chinese way; that is, in 
tin}', handle-less bowls, without sugar or 
cream, and poured from a teapot kept 
warm at all times by being encased in a 
padded receptacle. 

Tiny mandarin oranges, too, were 
there in abundance; for these always 
please Chinese children. Then there were 
all kinds of Chinese sweetmeats, with 
chop-sticks for those who wished them. 

Everybody fell in love with the dear 
little, timid, Chinese ladies, who have 



the sweet modesty and gentleness of a 
child, and every one wanted to cuddle 
the cunning little Chinese boys and 
girls; and all were more than regretful 
when the sacred hour for Chinese dinner 
(four o'clock) approached, and they 
had to say good-bye to all those gayly- 
robed, dimpled, giggling tots, and see 
them toddle off on their wobbling, 
embroidered shoes, and the ladies of 
high caste roll away, — away from the 
land of Christmas, and into the realm 
of the joss. 




A Yard of Tea-rose Babies 



When sleeps the Land 

Bv Grace Stone Field 



Ah, me! the lonely land! 

Birds mute and flowers flown, 
And sullen waves that moan 

Upon the strand. 

The trees bereft of leaves, 

The fields where stand no sheaves, — 

Ah, me! the lonely land! 



Hush! 'tis a land asleep, 

Dreaming through Nature's night. 
To wake with spring's delight 

From slumber deep. 

Snow, spreading fold on fold, 

Soft shelters from the cold, — 

Hush! 'Tis a land asleep. 



Oh, happy field and shore! 
For soon shall come again 
The robin and the wren, 
And waken you once more. 
No lonely land, but blest 
With kindly care and rest 
And plenitude in store! 



A Scientific Play-day 

By Helen Campbell 



THERE is no real play-day 
without hard work. Witness 
the small boy who travels 
miles for a day's fishing, and, once at 
the spot, will lie motionless for hours, a 
possible trout the incentive, but the 
result a perch or two or a stray shiner. 
The fun abides, however, no less than 
when older, but still bent on play, he 
trains for football or the college crew. 
And so the scientific man, juggling with 
earth, air, fire, and water, burned, 
drenched, or blown up, comes down 
smiling, for a new result is his; and 
what is man for but to find them? 

The agricultural chemist comes under 
this head; and the day nears — is even 
here — when the farmer is to know, as 
never before, which of all the products 
of his own labor has most power to 
give a man fuel for those inward fires 
that run the machine we call the human 
body. 

Here, then, was the searcher, finder, 
tester, — the agricultural chemist and 
his laboratory. On the table before 
him a stout tube, some eight inches 
long and four in diameter, made of 
solid steel, save for a little cavity lined 
with platinum, in which he had put a 
small brown pellet, as much like a cough 
drop or an old-fashioned pill as any- 
thing. In actual fact it was a Hubbard 
squash, — a condensed squash, the 
chemist said almost apologetically, as 
he gazed at it and one of its brethren, 
a drop of water on its polished surface, 
symbolizing the tear it would naturally 
shed at such ending of a summer's 
conflict with squash bugs and all other 
natural and unnatural foes of true 
squash development. 

A powerful lever was a part of the 
apparatus at hand, and with this he 
had gradually compressed the vege- 
table, or a large part of it, into this 
mere pellet. In the centre of the 



bomb — for that is the singular title 
given to the little cavity — is suspended 
a thread-like wire of pure iron; and 
the cap of the bomb was screwed on 
carefully, then placed in a pail of 
water holding a thermometer graduated 
so delicately that the thousandth of a 
degree could be measured. Then the 
electric battery was called upon, the 
current turned on, and the iron wire, 
taking instant fire, burned down to the 
squash pellet, which in turn was con- 
sumed, the heat made in burning pass- 
ing out through the steel walls and 
warming the water, the degree of heat 
being recorded on the thermometer, — 
a mere hint of heat, to be sure, but 
recorded as accurately as if it had been 
a test of the fire in San Francisco. 

This small and, it would seem, pre- 
posterously absurd method with squash 
was to prove precisely how much fuel 
its substance held for the eater; in 
other words, its precise value as food, 
since the same heat, registered on the 
little thermometer, is that it would give 
off to the human body. The tube also 
had its own scientific name, — a bomb 
calorimeter; and the calorie, as all 
food students know it, is just a unit of 
measure, the amount of heat necessary 
to raise the temperature of a pound of 
water four degrees by Fahrenheit or 
one and eight- tenths degrees by the 
Centigrade thermometer. Precisely as 
a lump of coal holds the latent heat 
that warms us or cooks our food, so 
each thing we eat has its latent heat, 
given out to the body as it is digested; 
and the tiny bomb measured it with 
an infallible exactitude. 

The little bomb and the non-protest- 
ing squash are one phase, but now the 
chemist grows more ambitious. The 
bomb expands, and it is no longer a 
squash or meek turnip that it holds, 
but a man, who, though he is not 



220 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



reduced to a pellet and consumed, goes 
through tests almost as heroic. The 
bomb has become a room, copper-lined 
instead of steel, its name the respiration 
calorimeter ; and in this room the tenant 
abides a given number of days, a week, 
or even a fortnight, and the most 
absolutely accurate data and records 
are kept, including not only the food 
given him, its composition, etc., but 
every atom of waste, — how much food 
is left unconsumed as it comes from 
the intestines and kidneys, and how 
much is given off through the lungs in 
breathing. There is record also of 
every atom of muscular energy used, 
and every movement of the body 
generating some heat. A stationary 
bicycle is in the room, — a very small 
one, seven and a half by four feet in 
dimensions and six and a half feet 
high. Outside the room is a thermom- 
eter so sensitive that it records any 
fraction of a degree of heat. The ob- 
server outside, who keeps the record, 
needs neither to look in nor to hear a 
sound from the man inside as he rises 
from his chair, for even this act, 
which holds next to no exertion, 
causes instantly a rise in the ther- 
mometer. 

The air he breathes is the next con- 
sideration. It goes in to him abso- 
lutely pure. It comes out impure from 
the breathing process, and the impurity 
is measured by another delicately ad- 
justed apparatus. There may be also 
muscular tests or no muscular work at 
all, the man merely doing mental labor, 
light or severe, as the case may be, 
whichever is necessary to determine 
the value of the foods given and their 
efficiency for rest or action. And it all 
ends as one of the most important 
scientific demonstrations of the century. 
This long series of experiments demon- 
strate that no atom of energy, force, or 



matter is at any time lost, but that 
each and all are to be accounted for. 
The Pennsylvania Experiment Station 
is doing much the same thing with 
cattle, thus settling the vexed question 
as to stock foods. 

The professor rubs his hands joyfully 
as each new test shows the minute 
faithfulness of his methods; but he 
groans as he states that it is the cooking, 
guaranteed to ruin the most carefully 
selected food, that makes the problem 
of American diet. The richest food 
supply the earth owns is, for the ma- 
jority, he believes, so wretchedly cooked 
that the national dyspepsia is made 
inevitable ; but he rejoices in the steady 
march of the cooking school no less 
than in the general knowledge embodied 
in the agricultural bulletins and sent 
out to any applicant. Through his 
work has come also what is known as 
the sugar test and its determining of 
the value of sugar as food, the result of 
this being the sending of tons on tons 
of pure candy and chocolate to our 
army in the Philippines. Sugar he 
records definitely, after long experi- 
ment, is a very powerful stimulant for 
those in the midst of exhausting physical 
strain, as it is quickly and thoroughly 
assimilated, and enables the eater to 
pull through the crisis, even when 
strength and endurance are taxed to 
the utmost. 

With Burbank creating steadily new 
forms of food, delicious to taste and 
fair to the eye, and our chemist play- 
ing with his bomb and settling their 
actual value to mankind, the day nears 
when even the least scientific cook 
must have some inkling of a better 
way; and the generation to come will 
forget the meaning of pill, powder, or 
any other death-dealing result of otu- 
own transgressions in the way of bad 
cooker v. 



Christmas Diary of a Young Girl 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



December 25, 1898. — Now I am twelve 
years old, I am going to keep a diary 
about Christmas as it comes along. 
It is not half so nice as some other 
days. You don't always get what you 
want, but you have to do a lot of pre- 
tending you had rather have it than 
anything else. Writing your thanks 
is just awful. It takes so many people 
put together to give me just one real 
nice present that Christmas things 
don't count up much. 

The best fun in Christmas is getting 
ready for it. I begin on the next one 
just as soon as one is over. I pick 
out the things I wish I had not got, and 
keep them to give away next year. 
Now I am so big I write down who 
gives them to me, because once I 
gave back to Aunt Jane's I^ucy Ann 
the very pocket-book she had given 
me, and she got real mad. When 
I have a little girl, I shan't give her 
useful things. I shall buy her a dia- 
mond necklace and a long white 
feather, and I shan't call it just a trifle, 
as Aunt Jane does when she gives me 
a pin-ball. I hate pin-balls. 

January i, 1900. — I forgot to WTite 
about Christmas before last, for it 
did not amount to much. We did not 
give anybody much of anything, and 
we got all tired out making jokes. We 
just each of us gave our best present 
to mamma. We liked her best, and she 
was so surprised. Then we put to- 
gether all we had not spent and what 
we did not want, and gave that to some 
children whom we did not know very 
weU. 

Well, that was a year and one week 
ago. Then came last Christmas, I 
mean the one a week ago, and papa was 
so sick we forgot what day it was. 

After he had died, mamma opened his 
secretary, and there was a little package 



in it for each one of us, just what each 
of us most w^anted. And there was a 
little note for each of us, too, and a note 
for mamma. She just read our notes, 
and then she took hers and went off 
by herself, and, when she came back 
she looked all beautiful and blushing, 
just like a bride. I am going to put 
my note with my best handkerchiefs 
and learn it by heart. It was the 
sweetest, saddest, dearest Christmas 
that ever was. 

December 25, 1901. — It seems a 
great deal longer than just one Christ- 
m-as ago. We live so differently since 
papa died. We don't get cross with 
each other, as we used to, and we all 
help at home, which we didn't use to 
do, either. We girls got the Christmas 
dinner. We were so glad to get any 
kind of a present we didn't mind its 
being useful. I did mind, though, not 
being able to give nice things, but I 
had to make the kind you buy at fairs, 
and give those instead. Christmas, 
the way we had it, takes the pride all 
out of you. You just feel grateful 
things are not worse, and you don't 
want anybody to feel very bad, for 
you are glad on what mamma calls 
general principles and for wholesale 
reasons, and are not on the lookout 
for special providences for your own 
benefit, she says. 

December 26, 1902. — I didn't know 
there was so much fun in economical 
Christmases till we had them our- 
selves. Just having a jolly time out 
of nothing but love is more substantial 
than I supposed. Saving aU through 
the year for the sake of Christmas 
giving keeps you inventing. If you 
feel a bit mean because you have to 
contrive so much to do anything, you 
feel mighty proud wheu you have 



222 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



thought of a way by which, after all, 
you can save and have. It is the hav- 
ing in the end that makes the saving 
come easy. 

We have given up Christmas trees, 
— better for the woods that we did. 
We have given up window wreaths and 
ribbons. We just put laurel round 
father's picture. We take turns in 
giving presents. We go to see two 
or three persons who don't have nice 
Christmases, and we have fun watch- 
ing people on the streets with their 
bundles. We all are earning a little 
or getting ready to do so, and we call 
saving earning. Mamma says Christ- 
mas overdoing makes one forget its 
real meaning. 

December 26, 1905. — It is three years 
since I wrote in this book. When I 
began, I supposed it would not be large 
enough for all I should have to say, 
but nov/ just living along has got too 
big for any diary, and a Christmas 
feeling stays with me all the time. It 
is so nice that Christmas never fails 
to put in its appearance right on 
time. It is in one way the whole year, 
not once a year. Everything that has 
happened makes it seem • more real. 
It did not begin to be so until papa 
died. Then mamma taught us that, 
when one loves another very, very 
much, one is never sorry for their 
dying. She says she and papa are 
living together now. If he were my 
husband, I should want him more 
really and truly round in the house. 

I have found out, too, that it is such 
good fun to earn my own living. I 
am afraid I shall get conceited about it. 



I really don't earn much, but living at 
home is cheaper than boarding, so 
what I earn seems more. Then I 
talk like a mother to the girls who 
aren't as old as I, and tell them there 
is always a niche in the world some- 
where for ever}'body. It is just a 
game of hide-and-seek, and the Christ- 
mas feeling is like the loud music in 
the play of magic music, which lets 
you know when you are close on to the 
thing hidden, all w^aiting for you to 
find it. 

I have not been married yet. I am 
not even engaged. I hope I shall be 
before another Christmas. They say 
girls have to do the chasing nowa- 
days. I shan't. It is not dignified. 
Besides, he would not be half so grate- 
ful as if he had had a hard time making 
me like him. I hope it will happen on 
a Christmas. 

December 25, 1906. — It did happen 
to-day! My! I shall have my ring 
to-morrow. He was not sure enough 
I'd say 3^es to get it beforehand. 

It is so nice other people have Christ- 
mas, too. It belongs to everybody. 
]\Iamma says after it once got started 
of itself, because Christ was born, it 
is up to each one of us never to let the 
Christmas feeling stop. I mean the 
gladness and gratitude that comes down 
through the ages, and will go on just 
the same in eternity, because of that 
first Christmas two thousand years 
ago. Each Christmas is more wonder- 
ful than the last, no matter whether 
or not you are engaged. New Year's 
is good for resolutions, but Christmas 
is better for gratitude all round. 




A Christmas Cat 



By Alix Thorn 



I MUST have that cat," said 
Cynthia, dreamily. 
"Cat? What cat?" I asked. 

"Why," returned my sister, stopping 
short in the busy thoroughfare, "we 
just passed it. You saw that fascinat- 
ing creature that stands upon its 
hind legs and drums." 

Then we both turned back, and 
Cynthia bargained with the street- 
vender for a certain gray and white 
tin cat, who drummed with spirit and 
precision when wound up. Quite the 
military cat. 

"I'd love to own a real cat, if only 
we didn't live as we do," murmured 
Cynthia, regretfully. "I seem to need 
one. Do you know, I remember far 
back in our country days, when I was 
a mite of a child, I once owned a gray 
and white cat. I bestowed much 
affection upon it. It loved me in re- 
turn, too." And she gave to the box 
she carried a friendly pat. 

Now Cynthia is the kind of woman 
who seems out of place in the rush and 
din of the city streets. She has appeal- 
ing eyes and tender, appealing ways; 
and she should dwell in a sort of Cran- 
f ord town, where folks ' ' go softly all 
their days," and where no prim front- 
door yard is complete without its com- 
fortable tabby basking in the sunshine. 

"To whom are we going to give that 
cat?" I inquired. "I may be dense, 
but I somehow recall only grown-up 
friends, who would not truly appre- 
ciate such a gift, no matter how much 
spirit went with it." 

"Well," returned my sister, "I had 
to buy the cat, but I do think of some 
one who is just the age for it, little 
Margery Osborne." And then I re- 
membered our physician's small daugh- 
ter, who every Sunday, across the aisle, 
exchanged understanding smiles with 
Cynthia. 



We reached our tiny apartment late 
in the afternoon, hastened to light up, 
and set the gray and white cat upon 
the mantle. He drummed cheerfully 
while we cooked our modest dinner, 
he continued to drum while we ate 
it, and when, household duties done, 
we brought out cards for solitaire, we 
still heard the martial roll of the 
drum. 

At half- past eight our rector appeared 
to talk over the approaching festivities 
of the church. Though we were both 
interested in the cantata and both 
were drilling children's choruses, it 
was at Cynthia he looked, Cynthia he 
appealed to. What, with the interest 
and excitement, her cheeks grew a most 
lovely pink. 

The rector had called several times, 
and I had begun to wonder — one 
always wonders when there is a widower 
in the question — if, perhaps — To- 
night I felt sure. When I came back 
to the room, Cynthia was winding up 
the toy, and the rector's kindly, near- 
sighted eyes were studying first Cyn- 
thia and then the cat. 

"Very amusing, very," he was say- 
ing. "I like the cat myself. It gives 
a home touch. Think my cook has 
one at the rectory." The yellow shade 
made Cynthia's bright hair look yel- 
lower than usual as she bent over her 
sewing. 

When my music pupils came next 
morning, each one quickly spied the 
cat. It must be wound up, and great 
was the joy thereat. They could 
hardly be persuaded to leave it and 
take a lesson. 

In the afternoon a college friend of 
Cynthia's ran in. She, too, fell under 
the spell of the white and gray cat, and 
he did his best to entertain her. It 
was well that Christmas was near by, 
for the brave little drummer would 



214 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



have been worn out before the festive 
season. We were beginning to fear 
that his arm action was growing a 
trifle weak, but hoped that his new 
mistress would discover no lack. We 
parted with him with regret. Cynthia 
looked ahnost mournful as she tied up 



the box with crimson ribbon and 
tucked in the accompanying sprig of 
holly. ''But I bought him to give 
away," she remarked. And my an- 
swer was, — 

''They have a live cat at the rectory, 
Cynthia." 



Suggestions for Stag Parties 

By Mary Taylor-Ross 



NEARLY every magazine one 
takes up contains hints and 
suggestions for a mixed com- 
pany of people, which is the easiest 
of all companies to entertain, or for 
women's luncheons or receptions, which 
come next; but few, indeed, are the 
helps for those who would entertain a 
stag party, although there are many 
wives who would be delighted to plan 
some sort of entertainment for their 
husbands' friends or business associ- 
ates. If one is well acquainted with the 
friends of one's husband, with their 
tastes and preferences, it is a simple 
matter to plan an evening and a meal, 
whether dinner or supper, which will in- 
clude some favorite dishes, and there is 
no use of pretending that the food 
served does not have great weight in 
making a man th nk he has spent a 
delightful evening. We might as well 
admit this at once. 

There are certain kinds of food that 
are invariably liked by men, with the 
exceptions so rare one will scarcely 
ever encounter them. Some of these 
dishes are shell fish, — oysters, clams, 
lobster (broiled live) , — game of all sorts, 
beef in the shape of a fillet mignon, or, 
in the absence of a game course at 
dinner, a well-prepared roast. Fish 
dinners are generally enjoyed by men, 
although, properly speaking, what is 
known as a fish dinner would be more 



correctly called a fish supper. Beef- 
steak suppers, rabbit suppers, coon 
suppers, are all popular with men, and 
it is well to remember that most men 
prefer rather plain dishes, or what 
seems to them in appearance to be plain, 
although, as any chef knows, the very 
plain dishes, served with a sauce, are 
among the very most particular there 
are to prepare and serve; for the sauce 
must be carefully made and perfectly 
seasoned, and it is not every cook who 
understands the making of a good 
sauce. The "plain dish" must be 
perfect, — the best of its kind and pre- 
pared without a flaw. As for desserts, 
save all 3^our efforts in the way of fancy 
dishes for a mixed company, and have 
a fruit pie with delicate puff- paste 
crusts or a pudding baked or boiled 
in the nature of a roly-poly or dump- 
ling, which may be individual pud- 
dings, made with fruit and served with 
a rich, sweet sauce. 

See that cigars are plentiful, and then 
for entertainment hire one or two per- 
sons who have some specialty in enter- 
taining, or can give a little vaudeville 
performance, dancing, singing, recit- 
ing, or "doing tricks," notably sleight- 
of-hand exhibitions. An athlete might 
give exhibitions of the various things 
that athletes do and which men under- 
stand and are interested in, and it is 
well to have the affair so informal 



Suggestions for Stag Parties 



22^ 



that any of the guests will feel priv- 
ileged to "try" themselves whatever 
the entertainer may be doing. Bill- 
iards, poker, and any card games are 
very good for a few guests, but, where 
there are a large number, if any of the 
above suggestions do not serve, invite 
some one to speak on some interesting 
topic of the day or to give a little talk 
that rambles on (though not too long), 
touching several topics of interest. 

The dinner or supper is given first, 
a ' 'smoker" follows, and then the guests 
themselves may give little talks, hav- 
ing been given a slip with a subject 
written on it, or the subject may be 
written on the place-card underneath 
the name. Any one who does not care 
to speak need not do so, as there will 
be no toastmaster, as at a formal 
dinner. Some chum of the host can, 
quite naturally, commence on his own 
subject, and the others follow as they 
see fit. A discussion of the topic might 
follow each speech; and, generally, 
men thoroughly enjoy anything of 
this sort, and they like to hear them- 
selves talk quite as well as women, 
although they do not admit it. A 
debate, such as all men are familiar 
with as school-boys, is another means 
of entertaining a company composed 
wholly of men. If music is to form 
a part of the entertainment, do not 
attempt a programme of classics, but 
have some up-to-date coon songs, 
popular airs, interspersed with old- 
time ballads. Music of this sort will 
prove a strong card, for it is perfectly 
permissible to keep on talking while 
it is being played, when music from the 
masters would entail sitting perfectly 
quiet and listening until bored beyond 
expression. Have an orchestra, if pos- 
sible, even though a very small one. 



and generally some member of an 
orchestra can sing a little, — enough 
to render ragtime songs and ballads. 
Or a phonograph (not too close to 
the table) may be kept playing all 
through the supper; and under cover 
of the music even the shyest and 
stiffest of men will lose his sense of 
restraint, and tell a good story, which 
will make the others think of some other 
story, till each one has told his own par- 
ticular story. A man always feels 
perfectly at home anywhere after he 
has had a chance to tell his own par- 
ticular story; and what man is there 
who has not one story that he never 
tires of telling? 

A fish dinner affords each man an 
opportunity, which you may be sure 
will not be neglected, to see which can 
tell the biggest fish story of the crowd, 
— a story purporting to be of his own 
experiences and marvelous luck as a 
piscatorial artist. This also applies 
to a game supper, for there is just as 
much room for the imagination to play 
about and "see things big" in hunting 
as in fishing,. 

The decorations and place-cards 
should have some connection with the 
kind of supper given, suitable quota- 
tions being used on the cards. At a 
dinner for physicians a bottle (un- 
mistakably a whiskey bottle) was drawn 
with pen and ink. The name was 
printed on the bottle, and, in the form 
of a prescription, the words ' 'Take 
night and morning — and any old 
time." The cards were booklets, and 
on the inside leaf was a "trick menu" 
cleverly gotten up, everything being 
called by some other name. At the 
bottom was printed "1 feel very much 
better," — a thing all doctors like to hear 
a patient say. 



The Passing of Madame Begue's 

By Felix J. Koch 



MADAME Begue is dead. No 
more Epicurean breakfasts 
in the Quartier Latin for 
the hon-mvants of the nation. No 
more snails a la Creole, or artichokes 
a la Begue, or the thousand-and-one 
curious palate-ticklers that one could 
get nowhere else west of Paris. Ma- 
dame Begue is dead, and the queer 
little two-story structure on the French 
market-place, with the yellow concrete 
over the exterior, and painted on that, 
in Creole fashion, the single word 
"Begue's," is silent and desolate. 

Back, however, from memory's 
treasure-house you are recalling your 
breakfast at Begue's. Begue's was 
more than a restaurant, more than a 
cabaret: it was an institution of New 
Orleans. Everybody went, at least 
once, on each visit to the city, to dine 
there. Such was the fame of the place 
that one had to engage places long 
in advance or run the risk of a refusal. 

Five minutes to eleven you as- 
cended the steep little stair, where 
a darky mammy was cleaning the land- 
ing, and entered a low-ceilinged room. 
The lower half of the wall was of rather 
plain panelling, painted a rich dark 
brown. Above that the wood- work 
of the walls was in green, pierced 
by the latticed French windows. 
The room, in fact, was hard to describe, 
it was so irregular. Above the tall 
baseboard arrangement hung pictures 
of famous Frenchmen. These were in 
the usual heav}^ French frames. Be- 
tween the pictures hung coats-of-arms 
of famous visitors. 

You took your place, and they passed 
about an autograph and sentiment 
book, in which others had written. 
Then old man Begue, a typical French- 
man, bald, fat, and jolly, passed the 
bread. It was cut the thickness of 
three ordinary slices, and one broke it, 



never cut it. Somehow or other he 
reminded you of a Chinaman in his an- 
tics as he explained. 

When you were not watching him, 
you surveyed the table. It had a 
thick linen cloth, of plain pattern. 
At each place there were a black-han- 
dled knife and fork, a glass into which 
he put the ice, and a finger-bowl. 

Then came the first course, shrimps 
you believed they were. The guests 
wondered just how to eat them. Mr. 
Begue showed you. You break them 
open, and eat the tail only. They were 
not shrimps: they were crayfish. It 
was now 11.15. 

You finished these, and took ob- 
servations. On the table there was 
a bottle of wine for each guest, and 
the white-rock bottles were passing 
constantly. There were platters of 
butter, to which one helped himself. 
Down at the rear end of the room you 
could see the hat-rack and a little side 
table. There sat Madame Begue. 
You hadn't noticed her before, much 
as you had heard of her. She was 
talking back and forth with her hus- 
band. She was a German by birth, 
and he, the Frenchman, was evidently 
the boss. Nevertheless, she knew 
just how to gel back at him. Mean- 
time, while the tit-for-tat went on, 
she prepared things for the next meal. 
She was getting old, — she was seventy- 
five or six when she died, — so she sat 
throughout your breakfast, with her 
crutch at her side, and just before a 
shelf with specimens of her glassware. 
Above and behind her opened a 
room where cooking was in progress. 
Your eyes wandered thence, while you 
waited or took more white rock; for 
your companions were principally 
tourists, and conversation languished. 

Then came the second course, an 
omelette, with parsley, steaming hot 



The Passing of Madame Begue's 



227 



and fine. The waiter was a plain 
French gargon, in the usual cabaret 
apron. In the omelette you noticed 
odd bits of black spice, and detected 
a curious flavor. You questioned 
old Madame Begue, as she ate hers at 
the side table, but she shrugged her 
shoulders and laughed. Her hus- 
band, who ate at table with you, 
laughed likewise. You noticed she 
was dressed in French fashion, — ^white 
skirt, black waist, black shawl, and 
the hair parted off from a heavy shell 
comb. Again she called to her hus- 
band, and he rose to count the guests, 
that there be not thirteen at the table. 
Then they passed celery and radishes. 

Some one wanted her to come and 
sit next to them. No, she preferred 
her place at the fireside, where it was 
warm. There, too, she could hold the 
confab with her husband in the long 
wait between courses. Around the 
table, set now for ten, the wine then 
went, to distract you. Then came the 
next course. 

Some said it was tripe, others snails. 
It was a yellow, rather ridged, — a long 
slice of something, in a yellow pep- 



pered sauce. It really proved to be 
tripe. What the spices that gave the 
gamey taste might be, no one could 
guess. 

The sun came out on the hitherto 
silent assemblage, and provoked them 
to conversation. One lady asked for 
water, and the astonished gargon says: 
"Plain water? Yes, ma'am!'' Then 
with the fried chicken and the fried 
boiled potatoes, and the cigars of some 
of the gentlemen, a running chat be- 
gins. 

It is 12.10 when the next course 
enters. Half a tomato, with pansley 
on top, steaming; a piece of beefsteak, 
and, on the rim of the plate, some cress. 
After that Roquefort and Swiss cheese, 
which M. Begue cuts for each. With it 
go apples. There is cafe noir, into 
which he pours brandy, and then burns 
it. The meal is at an end. 

You pay a dollar, and register your 
sentiments. There are souvenir spoons 
and cook-books for sale. Or you may 
photo the old couple. But you are 
too heavy and satiate to bother. You 
simply idle on out, to continue the 
sight-seeing. 



At a lunch party the other day one 
of the young women, to show her skill 
at throwing straight, sent two butter 
balls flying into the air, both hitting a 
projection in the ceiling, where they 
remained until the heat of the room 
caused them to fall. This performance 
may prove her to be a capital shot, but 
the generality of hostesses would prefer 
other missiles than greasy butter should 
be chosen. But the manners of the 
present day stick at nothing, not even 
the butter ball, or snapping salted 



almonds at plate-glass mirrors or trials 
of manual strength on fragile gold fur- 
niture. Modern society has a singular 
taste for rough house stunts, showing 
the utmost ingenuity in damaging 
things just for the pleasure of it. Prob- 
ably Dr. Janet would say it is only 
another evidence of the all-prevailing 
hysteria which has taken our ultra- 
civilization by the ear. It reminds one 
rather of Dr. Watts's hymn about Satan 
and idle hands, though of course it won't 
do to say so aloud. — Boston Herald. 



Moravian Candy 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



EVERY section of our vast coun- 
try has its special crops, likewise 
its favorite method of preparing 
staples, or luxuries, or accessories, of 
the table. There is now a tendency 
to estimate rightly the cookery of 
"ye olden tyme," just as we now value 
the mahogany, pewter, and old books 
that a generation or so ago were so 
often sent to auction-rooms, to give 
place to machine-made black walnut, 
etc. 

In many places some noted house- 
keeper's recipes become valuable in 
trade. Often some plain old woman's 
skill is allowed to perish, because 
no one has learned her methods or 
kept her recipes for game pies, waffles, 
etc. Often people of the latter class 
were more skilled in making savory 
dishes than in teaching others or 
in writing down their knowledge. 

"Straws show how the wind blows." 
The ready sale of church-fair cook- 
books, the popular breakfasts or sup- 
pers of some towns, the jams and 
candies of other localities, indicate that 
we are trying to hold on to the best of 
the old ways, while trying to improve 
daily on many new ways; and, besides, 
we enjoy quantities of daintily prepared 
food -stuffs and tropical fruits of which 
our ancestors never dreamed. Stoves 
and utensils have been invented, and 
gas and electric lighting, while people 
who are still active remember cooking 
done by open fires and going to the 
neighbor's for coals, when tinder was 
used instead of matches or an electric 
button, as nowadays. 

In Pennsylvania the Moravian sisters 
made candy, — "the Moravian nuns 
of Bethlehem," as they are called by 
Longfellow in his poem on "Pulaski's 
Banner." 

This candy is still made at the Sisters' 
House, and is for sale in Philadelphia, 



and advertised as one of their special- 
ties by fashionable grocers. "Original 
Moravian Candies, Peppermint, Spice, 
and Teaberry. In one-pound boxes. 
Made at the 'Sisters' House, Bethle- 
hem, Pa.,' as they have been for the 
past fifty years." 

Another candy made at Lancaster, 
Pa., is said to be the same as "Mammy 
Benders," when she kept a little shop 
there. 

It is like "salt-water taffy," so popu- 
lar at Atlantic City, on the "Board 
Walk," — a white-pulled, rather crisp 
candy, cut in small pieces and rolled 
in wax paper. The odd thing about 
this Lancaster candy is that it is 
flavored with spearmint. 

Since mint is on the top wave of 
popularity, try it, for flavoring candy, 
as well as peppermint. And, by the 
way, spearmint and peppermint leaves 
can be crystalized very nicely and in- 
expensively at home, and are quite the 
proper thing to set off a dish of bonbons 
as well as the long-used rose and 
violet petals. 

Letitz pretzels are a Pennsylvania 
specialty, but here people like pretzels 
even without a thought of beer to go 
with them, and cheese. 

In some places a pretzel-seller would 
find as little demand for his wares as a 
pork-seller in Jerusalem, but in Phila- 
delphia street-venders sell them to 
workingmen, and school children buy 
them at lunch-rooms, both the tiny and 
the large varieties. 

Now that people travel so much, they 
desire souvenirs that are not trashy, — 
something to send or carry to family 
and friends. Heed this suggestion, 
and make your town noted not only 
for its "Arts and Crafts Society," but 
for its edibles. Revive, if you can, the 
pound cake, with citron or almonds, 
the jumbles, turnovers, blanc-mange, 



The Changing Seasons 



229 



jams, caraway-seed, cassia and clove 
candies, the pandowdies, maple sugar- 
seasoned dishes, like custards, and cakes 



with maple sugar frosting. Who ever 
makes honey cakes ? Yet we import 
such from Germany. 



The Changing Seasons 

By Helen Knight Wyman 

How lovely is Spring! 'Tis the youth of the year; 
We rejoice in its coming, with skies bright and clear; 
From the first joyous bird-call, it speaks to the heart, 
And sadly we watch its fresh glory depart. 



How fair is the Summer, when birds sing all day ! 
The breath of the wild-rose, the scent of the hay. 
The flush of the dawn and the magic of night. 
Each gives one an exquisite sense of delight. 



How bounteous is Autumn, in russet and gold ! 
Its foliage charms us, 'tis good to behold! 
Its fruits fill our bins, 'tis a generous time! 
Like a life that has ripened, its end is sublime. 



And now it is Winter that o'er us holds sway: 
His breath proves a tonic, his smile makes us gay. 
In the winter of age all our past we relive, 
And we hope a new spring will eternity give ! 



Diet in Relation to Childhood, Sickness, 

and Old Age 

By Mary D. Chambers 



THE following papers are 
adapted from a course of ten 
lectures given to the winter 
class in Home Economics at the De- 
partment of Agriculture, Cornell Uni- 
versity, N.Y., during February, 1906. 

I. 

Modification of Diet Dependent on 
Physiological Differences between 
Child and Adult 

Introduction 
A French writer tells us there are 
two kinds of motherhood, one of blood 
and one of the care of children. Few 
women, then, may be regarded as 
wholly debarred from exercising the 
great function of the sex in nurture 
or care or teaching or love of a child. 



From simply a physical standpoint 
few subjects, perhaps none, are more 
important to study than the care and 
diet of the child. For the individual, 
during the formative period, constitu- 
tional tendencies may be overcome. 
It has even been asserted that the 
future health of the man or woman is 
often dependent on the feeding of the 
first three months. Dr. Holt says that 
in New York City an infant mortality 
averaging 26 per cent, during the first 
year of life was directly traceable to 
disorders of nutrition, while another 
writer declares that from the intelligent 
interest now being taken by mothers in 
the subject of right diet for the grow- 
ing child he expects to see develop a 
better citizenship and a nobler race. 

The present writer a short time ago 



230 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



asserted in a mixed gathering of men 
and women, for the most part teachers, 
that the best things, the most per- 
manent values in the world, are, in 
the main, controlled by women. And 
the women present greeted the state- 
ment wdth incredulous laughter! But 
let us see. First, woman is the great 
money-spender. Man earns the mioney, 
and woman spends it. It is hardly too 
much to say that the comfort and pros- 
perity of the average wage-earner 
depends on the wise use of his mone}' 
by his women-folk. Here, then, is 
one of the accepted values of the civ- 
ilized world controlled by women. 
Again, the food for the household is 
chosen and prepared by women, and 
volumes would be needed to tell how 
much, physically, mentally, and mor- 
ally, man is helped or hurt by his food. 
Thirdly, only a woman can make a 
home, and the home is the most im- 
portant social institution. Fourthly, 
we find the greatest of all earthly val- 
ues delivered into the hands of women, 
in the bearing, nurture, and training, 
of the child. Of these four, the last 
three ma}^ be called creative values. 
Since the fruit of all education is the 
right appreciation of values, it is to 
be hoped that the higher education 
of women will include such studies as 
may foster truer ideals of womanhood, 
and that amongst these studies may be 
found the care and diet of the child. 

PhysioIvOgical Differences in- 
fluencing Diet 

Absence of Teeth. Food requiring 
mastication, and all thickening for food 
which is not almost predigested b}^ 
long cooking, should be omitted from 
the diet of the infant until it has at 
least six teeth. This will generally 
be at about twelve months old. A crust 
of bread or piece of zwieback may then 
be given to suck, and in general it may 
be said that the use of bread may 
begin at the age of twelve months. 

Weight of Body. It is obvious that 



the child needs less food than the adult, 
but, since it has to build as well as re- 
pair tissue, it needs more food in pro- 
portion to its size than the adult. 
Roughly speaking, an adult using an 
ordinary mixed diet, including water 
and beverages, takes daily food to 
equal 5 per cent, of his body weight. 
Targe infants, for the first ten weeks, 
need 15 per cent, to 19 per cent, of the 
body weight in food. Small children, 
during the same period, need 12 per 
cent, to 14 per cent. Targe infants, 
from the nth to 13th week, need 13 per 
cent, to 17 per cent, of the body weight 
in food, small infants, same period, 
II per cent, to 13 per cent. Though 
these figures are merely approximate, 
it may be readily seen that not only 
do large children need more food than 
smaller, but they need more in propor- 
tion. 

Size of Stomach. At birth the ca- 
pacity of the stomach is about i ounce ; 
at two weeks old, 2 ounces; at three 
months, 4J ounces; at six months, 
6 ounces; at twelve months, 9 ounces; 
and at eighteen months, 12 ounces. 
The capacity of the average adult 
stomach is betw^een 3-4 pints. Since 
it is highly important to avoid disten- 
tion and consequent -weakening of the 
stomach walls in early life, the amount 
of each feeding should be adapted to the 
capacity of the stomach. This, in large 
children, will be proportionally greater. 

Shape of Stoynach. This, in the 
young infant, is tubular, the cardiac 
portion not being weU differentiated, 
thus resembling the stomach of car- 
nivora. Proteid food of animal origin 
is then indicated during early life. 

Stomach Secretion. This tends to ex- 
cess of acid, and, since solid food 
stimulates acid secretion, points to a 
liquid diet for the child. Such a diet, 
however, results in the formation of 
less bile, more putrefaction in the in- 
testine, and more wind. 

Muscular Activity. As regards the 
voluntarv muscles, there is little ac- 



Diet in Childhood, Sickness, and Old Age 



231 



tivity during early infancy, hence the 
carbohydrate, or energy-yielding, food 
is demanded in smaller proportion than 
by the adult organism. 

Animal Heat. The young infant 
has not much power to manufacture 
animal heat. Its food is unstimulat- 
ing, its lung capacity small, and most 
of its time is spent in sleep. Hence 
the fats, the heat-producers, are called 
for in larger proportion than in the 
diet of more mature years. 

Osseous System, The bony tissue in 
the child is incompletely developed. 
Therefore, lime salts are essential in the 
diet. 

Weight of Blood in Proportion to 
Weight of Body. In the new-born 
infant the total volume of the blood 
equals little more than one-tv/entieth 
of the body weight. In the adult it 
is about one-thirteenth. This is an- 
other reason why a liquid diet is suita- 
ble for the infant, as liquids are readily 
absorbed into the circulation, and 
tend to increase the volume of the blood. 

Pnlse, Circulation, and Breathing. 
Up to the second month of life the pulse 
beats 130 to 160 times per minute. In 
the adult of average build it beats 
about 70 times per minute. In the 
newly born the entire round of the 
circulation is accomplished in about 
twelve seconds. In the adult it takes 
about twice that time. Soon after 
birth the infant breathes forty times per 
minute or oftener: the adult breathes 
about sixteen or seventeen times per 
minute. Metabolism, therefore, in the 
child is very rapid, and, as water favors 
metabolic changes, much water is 
needed in the diet. It has been esti- 
mated that, proportionately, the infant 
needs six times as much water as the 
adult. Milk, which commonly con- 
tains 88 per cent, or 90 per cent, of 
water, is then well adapted to the re- 
quirements of infancy. 

Digestive Secretions. The saliva of 
the infant is scanty, and during the 



early months of life may be said to be 
lacking. The parotid, or chief salivary, 
glands in the newly bom weigh only 
34 grains, or less than one-thirteenth of 
an ounce. At the end of the first 
year they equal in weight very nearly 
one-fifth of an ounce; while in the 
adult these glands weigh from one-half 
to one ounce, and the amount of saliva 
secreted daily is estimated to be about 
a pint, often much more. The starch- 
digesting ferment in the pancreatic 
juice of the infant is also slow in devel- 
oping. During the first month of life 
it has no effect whatever on starch; 
during the second, very little; at the 
close of the third month its activity 
is greatly increased, but not until the 
end of the first year is it safe to ad- 
minister other than super-cooked 
starchy foods to the child. This is one 
of the most important distinctions to be 
made in the diet of the infant, and one 
frequently disregarded by ignorant 
mothers, who are unaware that for the 
digestion of the "little bit of cake," 
or the "morsel of mashed potato," 
which the infant swallows so greedily, 
there has been absolutely no provision 
made by nature in the matter of 
digestive fluid. It may be said that 
' ' the baby thrives, eats a little of every- 
thing, and gets no hurt from it." It is 
true that nature is often tolerant and 
long-suffering, but most surely will 
payment of an overdrawn account be 
exacted in the end, and at compound 
interest. Arrested development, ner- 
vous affections, impaired vitality, re- 
sulting in disease or ehfeeblement 
during puberty or middle life, may be 
often directly charged to unwholesome 
feeding during the first twelve months. 

In the foregoing brief outline, it is 
hoped, enough has been given to sho^^ 
that the diet of the child is not a matter 
of arbitrary rules formulated by the 
physician, but simply a matter of con- 
formity to irrevocable physiological 
laws. 



232 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR. 

Publication Office: 
372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, 10c. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued and arrearages are 
paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires: it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
tion, or a renewal of the same, has been re- 
ceived. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 

THE MONOPOLIST AND THE 
CLAIMANT 

THE day after election sensa- 
tional head-lines and exaggerated 
claims do not count for much. 
The votes have been counted: and 
these speak the truth. 

The indications are abroad in the 
land that people are becoming tired 
of the monopolist, the self-seeking as- 
pirant, and the great claimant. Time 
was when he who aspired to high po- 
sitions of trust and honor was content 
in making declaration of his prin- 
ciples and policies, and in awaiting, 
with some degree of modesty, the call 
of the people. How different it is 
to-day! The office-seeker figures as a 
reformer, the §ok savior of the land. 



Instead of being presented or repre- 
sented to the people by his friends, he 
presents himself, and boasts of his fit- 
ness and claims for promotion to the 
highest places. 

We must confess that our sympathies 
are with those who practise the more 
modest ways of earUer days. We ad^ 
mire neither the monopoUst nor the 
claimant. Doing seems to us far more 
commendable than boasting and claim- 
ing. "The tongue boasteth great 
things;" but "charity vaunt eth not 
itself, is not puffed up." As matters 
now stand in this enhghtened age, it 
requires the intelligent and hearty co- 
operation of many good men and 
women to bring about desirable changes 
or results, either social or economic in 
nature. No single publication or par- 
tisan leader, though he claim the earth, 
can hope to take possession of and con- 
duct the same. 



THE SMOKER 

BURBANK says he cannot in- 
trust his finest tasks to the man 
who smokes' even a single cigar 
a day. The ners^es of such an one are 
not sufficiently steady, his powers of 
concentrated attention are not requi- 
site to perform the most delicate proc- 
esses. 

What an arraignment this of the 
tobacco habit! If it be true, — and 
who can doubt that a kernel of truth 
is disclosed therein ? — in what a shat- 
tered state must be the nerves of a mass 
of mankind ! And yet it is well known 
that the experienced employer of work- 
men is distrustful of the incessant 
smoker as well as of the habitual 
drinker, neither of whom at his best 
is the most desirable type of employee. 
Long since the business world has had 
no use for the cigarette fiend. His 
chances for promotion in any line of 
occupation are a constantly diminish- 
ing factor. 

Why will young people persist in 



Editorials 



'^33 



forming habits that are destined to be 
so ruinous to their future prospects 
and well-being? A strong, well-bal- 
anced physical system, unshaken by 
indulgence or excess of any kind, is of 
priceless value in life's contests. And, 
besides, it affords the most satisfactory 
and enduring happiness. That which 
menaces health, attacks the physical 
and mental capacity, is an enemy in- 
deed. In the preservation and main- 
tenance of health and strength, food 
properly selected, prepared, and par- 
taken, should be our sole reliance. 



DILIGENCE AND MIGHT 

PEOPLE of great energy are apt 
to be successful. In every line 
of effort, men and women arrive 
at the cherished goal through tireless 
industry. Diligence, capacity to work, 
then, are traits of those who win 
out in life's contests. Jay Cooke, the 
greatest financier in our Civil War, is 
thus characterized by his late biog- 
rapher. Secretary Taft and our Chief 
Magistrate are living examples of men 
of this same type of character. 

Does it not follow that young peo- 
ple, even children, should be taught 
and encouraged to do everything well? 
Successful achievement in minor mat- 
ters prepares the way to early promo- 
tion. He who does well the tasks 
that lie nearest at hand will soon 
be called to greater opportunities. A 
saying of the wise man is, "Whatsoever 
thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy 
might." 

According to Tolstoy, "The first con- 
dition of a good education is that the 
child should know that all he uses does 
not fall from heaven, ready-made, but 
is produced by other people's labor." 
"I beseech you," he says, "let your 
children do all they can for themselves : 
carry out their own slops, fill their own 
jugs, wash up, arrange their rooms, 
clean their boots and clothes, lay the 
table, letc. Believe me that^ unim- 



portant as these things may seem, they 
are a hundred times more important 
for your children's happiness than a 
knowledge of French or of history. 
It is true that here the chief difficulty 
crops up: children do willingly only 
what their parents do, and therefore, 
I beg of you, do these things. This 
will effect two objects at once : it makes 
it possible to learn less, by filling the 
time in the most useful and natural 
way, and it trains the children to sim- 
plicity, to work, and to self-depend- 
ence." 

These things are not new, and may 
seem trivial, but they point the way 
to practical, useful training and suc- 
cessful attainment. 



AS I said before, God himself 
cannot make a man or woman 
^worthy of consideration except 
in the crucible of industry. 

Work is not a curse. Indolence is 
a beastly mother, breeding no high 
purpose and no sweet sentiments, noth- 
ing but the imps of selfishness. 

Earning one's bread by the sweat 
of one's brow^ — whether on the outside 
or the inside — is not a curse. God 
help the children of the rich ! The poor 
can work. I have no patience with 
the rich loafer: I think much less of 
him than I do of the poor loafer; and 
I have no more respect for the female 
loafer than I have for the male loafer. 
A loafer is a loafer : nothing more need 
be said, nothing w^orse can be said. — 
John J. Lentz. 

A SHORT ROAD TO PERFECTION 

IT is the saying of holy men that, 
if we wish to be perfect, we have 
nothing more to do than perform the 
ordinary duties of the day well. A short 
road to perfection, — short not because 
easy, but because pertinent and in- 
telligible. As soon as a person really 
desires and sets about seeking it him- 
self, he is dissatisfied with anything 
bi4t what i§ tangible and dear, and 



234 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



constitutes some sort of direction 
towards the practice of it. 

We must bear in mind what is meant 
by perfection. It does not mean any 
extraordinary service, anything out 
of the way or especially heroic, — not all 
have the opportunity of heroic acts 
or sufferings, — but it means what the 
word ''perfection" ordinarily means. By 
perfect we mean that which has no 
flaw in it, that which is complete, that 
which is consistent, that which is sound, 
— we mean the opposite to imperfect. 
He, then, is perfect who does the work 
of the day perfectly, and we need not go 
beyond this to. seek for perfection. — Car- 
dinal Newman. 

IN order that the Cooking-School 
Magazine may reach its subscribers 
on the first day of each month, we 
are trying to make the date of publi- 
cation the 25th of the preceding month. 
That we may fully accomplish this, 
which we are sure will be most accept- 
able to our readers, contributed arti- 
cles to each department must be re- 
ceived at a date still earlier; that is, 
in the month preceding the date of 
publication. For instance, contribu- 
tions to our February number must be 
received in December, and those for 
March in January, and so on through 
the year. By this it will be seen that 
it takes one month, entire, to print, 
make, and mail a single issue of 
the magazine. Will our contributors 
kindly respond to this notice? 



WE wish to warn the readers 
of the Cooking-School Maga- 
zine against paying money 
to one W. K. Dana, who about one 
year ago unfortunately solicited sub- 
scriptions for this magazine in Lynn, 
Lowell, Lawrence, Fall River, Provi- 
dence, and other places in Eastern 
Massachusetts. This man is no longer 
our agent, nor is he authorized, in any 
wise, to represent the magazine, either 
directly or indirectly. 



ILLUSTRATED ARTICLES 

In the January number of the Cook- 
ing-School Magazine we shall print an 
illustrated article on Radcliffe College, 
Harvard's foster child, the woman's 
college whose scholarship is attested 
by the great university. This article 
is written by Mrs. Charles Norman, a 
graduate of Radcliffe. 

Our February number will contain 
another finely illustrated article on the 
famous Memorial Hall at Harvard, and 
its kitchens, where fifteen hundred 
students are fed daily. These papers 
are of interest to all women. The 
first points to the high position woman 
has attained; and the second shows 
how food is dispensed to large num- 
bers in a most satisfactory and hygienic 
manner. Are not women the chief dis- 
pensers of food ? 



NATIONAL DEPARTMENT OF 
HEALTH 

At the last meeting of the American 
Association for the Advancement of 
Science at Ithaca, June 30, 1906, a com- 
mittee was appointed, under resolutions 
of that body, to promote the establish- 
ment of a National Department of 
Health by agitation in all legitimate 
ways for the purpose of creating a pub- 
lic sentiment in its favor. The naming 
of the members of the committee is in 
the hands of Professor Irving Fisher, 
Yale University, chairman of this sec- 
tion of th^ American Association for 
the Advancement of Science. The 
names of the Committee of One Hun- 
dred selected will be announced shortly. 
The movement in general already has 
the support of the principal journals 
of medicine and hygiene in the United 
States. 



Water, it is said, can be found in the 
most solid substances, yet some people 
grumble if they find water in their 
milk. 




Lady Baltimore Cake, No. i. See page 242 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is Aieant. 
A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Creamed Smoked Halibut 
Select mild-cured halibut, moist 
rather than dry. Pick the fish into 
bits, cover these with, cold water, and 
set upon the back of the range where the 
water will not boil, but gradually heat 
in half an hour to nearly the boiling- 
point. For a cup of fish melt two 
tablespoonfuls of butter. Cook in it 
two tablespoonfuls of flour, and gradu- 
ally pour on one cup of rich milk. Stir 
until boiling, then add the fish and a 
slightly beaten o^gg. Stir and cook 
without boiling until the ^gg thickens. 
Serve at once with baked or mealy, 
boiled potatoes. 

Hot Oyster Hors d'CEuvre 
Stamp out rounds of bread two 



inches in diameter and one-fourth 
an inch thick. Spread these with 
butter and brown them in the oven or 
in -a frying-pan in a little hot butter. 
Spread with anchovy paste, and on the 
paste set a small piece of bacon, hot 
and broiled to a crisp. Over the bacon 
set a hot, broiled oyster, spread with 
maitre d'hotel butter. Sprinkle the 
oysters with a very little fine-chopped 
parsley, and serve at once. 

Broiled Ham 
Select slices, cut one-fourth an inch 
in thickness, from the centre of a 
choice ham. Pour boiling water over 
the slices of ham, drain and wipe dry, 
then broil over a bed of not too 
fierce coals about five minutes. Spread 



11,6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



lightly with butter, and sprinkle with 
fine-chopped parsley. 



a rectangular piece of meat. Lay a 
boned chicken upon the meat, so as to 




Galantine of Turkey just from the Oven 



Galantine of Turkey 

Singe the turkey, pull the sinews from 
the legs, but leave undrawn. Cut 
through the skin on the back of the 
turkey down the whole length. Then, 
commencing at the shoulder blade, 
separate the flesh from the bones, first 
on one side and then on the other. The 
most of this work should be done with 
the back of a knife or the fingers. 
Leave the flesh of the legs and the wings 



have white meat uniformly over the 
surface. Chop fine one pound and 
a half of veal or pork steak, season with 
salt and pepper, and add cream or 
broth to make the mixture quite 
moist. With this mixture fill in the 
spaces to make an even surface, then 
roll up the meat like a jelly roll, and 
sew through the skin to make a neat 
compact roll of meat. Mushrooms or 
truffles may be pressed into the force- 
meat here and there, and other sea- 




Galantine of Turkey Partly Sliced. Garnish : Cranberry Vines with Fresh Berries 



on the inside of the fowl, where they sonings may be used, as poultry 
were turned during the boning, to make seasoning, bay leaf, mace, etc. The 



Seasonable Recipes 



237 



galantine may be cooked at once or, 
if it is to be served hot, left until 
another day. \\'hen ready to cook, 
rub over with salt, spread with butter 
or slices of fat salt 
pork, dredge with flour, 
and roast between three 
and four hours, basting 
every ten seconds, dredg- 
ing with flour after bast- 
ing. A turkey of doubt- 
ful age will be more 
juicy if it be steamed 
an hour before roasting. 
Serve hot with giblet 
sauce or cold with celery 
salad. 



fillet of beef in the centre of a platter, 
and dispose the juliennes of egg plant 
at the two ends of the dish. vServe 
brown sauce in a dish apart. 




Fil 
Larding 



Larded Fillet of Beef with Juliennes 
of Egg Plant 
Trim off all fat and skin from a 
rump fillet of beef, to leave nothing 
nnedible. Press it into shape, using 
■silver skewers or wooden tooth-picks 
to hold it, if necessary. Then lard it 
with fat salt pork, drawing in three 
rows of lardoons the length of the meat. 
Put the pork trimmings into an agate 
pan. xVdd half an onion, one-fourth a 
carrot, and a stalk of celery, all cut in 
thin slices, also two sprigs of parsley. 
Sprinkle the meat with salt, and pour 
over two tablespoonfuls of melted but- 
ter, then cover with an oiled paper, 
and set to cook in 
a quick oven. Cook 
about thirty-five min- 
utes, turning twice, and 
basting every ten min- 
utes with melted but- 
ter or the liquid in the 
pan. In the mean time 
cut a pared egg plant in 
strips about four inches 
long and half an inch 
thick and wide. Sea- 
son these with salt and 
pepper, roll them in flour, fry at once 
in deep fat, and drain on soft paper. 
The juliennes will cook in about three 
minutes. Drain on soft paper. Set the 



et of Beef, Larded. By Kate H. 
Needle Threaded with Lardoon of Pork 



Brown Sauce for Fillet of Beef 
Pour off the fat from the baking- 
pan. To the vegetables left in the 
pan add a cup of brown stock, and let 
the whole simmer together. Heat three 
tablespoonfuls of the fat. In this cook 
three tablespoonfuls of flour until well 
browned. Then add one -fourth a cup 
of tomato puree and the liquid strained 
from the vegetables. 

Roast Gosling 
Select a young goose about six 
pounds in weight. Singe, clean care- 
fully, wash, and wipe dry. Cut oft' 
the feet and the head (but not the 




Larded Fillet of Beef with Egg Plant Juliennes 



skin) on a line with the top of the breast 
bone, then truss as a turkey. If 
stuffing be desired, pass three or four 
fresh-boiled potatoes through a ricer, 



138 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




add an onion (chopped fine and cooked is set on the platter, dispose the apples 
in a tablespoonful of butter), the yolks at the two sides of the dish, fill the 
of two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of centres of the apples with currant jelly, 

and put a few sprigs of cress- 
between them. 

Sausages with Fried 
Apples 
Shape country pork sau- 
sage mixture with the hands 
into balls, Then pat the 
balls into flat cakes. Melt a 
teaspoonful of butter in a 
frying-pan, and let it run 
over the bottom of the pan. 
Put in the sausage cakes, 
and set to cook in the oven. Turn 
the cakes, if needed, to brown them 
on both sides. In the mean time core 
and pare some tart apples. Then cut 
them into rings about half an inch 
thick. Dip the apple rings in milk 
and then in flour, and cook them ta 
a golden brown, first on one side 
and then on the other, in a little hot 
olive oil, butter, sausage or salt pork 
fat. 

Sausage Cooked with Apples or 

Bananas 
Pare, quarter, and core five or six 
tart apples. Cut the quarters in very 
thin slices into an earthen baking-dish. 
Sprinkle very lightlv 
with salt, and dispose 
five or six sausage 
cakes above the sliced 
apples. Let cook in 
the oven until the 
sausage are browned. 
Turn them and cook 
until the second side is 
browned, when the ap- 
ples should be cooked.. 
Ser^'e in the baking- 
dish. Bananas may be 
substituted for apples. 



Pork Sausages with Fried Apples 

butter, salt and pepper to season. Mix 
thoroughly, and use to fill the goose. 
Rub over with salt and pepper, and set 
to cook in a hot oven. Baste with 
butter or salt-pork fat, and dredge 
with flour every ten minutes. Cook 
until the second joints separate easily 
from the body. Reduce the heat after 
twenty minutes. For sauce heat two 
cups of consomme, reduced by cooking 
to one, with two tablespoonfuls of 
currant jelly and three tablespoonfuls 
of sherry wine. Half an hour before 
the goose is cooked, put eight cored- 
and-pared, tart apples into a dish of hot 
syrup (a cup, each, of sugar and water) 
and let cook, turning frequently that 




Pork Sausage Cooked with Apples 



they may retain their shape, until 
tender throughout. Dredge the apples 
thick with granulated sugar, and set 
into the oven to glaze. When the goose 



Broiled Venison Cutlets 
Cut chops from a loin of venison to 
correspond with loin or English mutton 



Seasonable Recipes 



239 



chops. Brush over the cutlets with 
melted butter or olive oil, sprinkle with 
salt and pepper, and roll in bread 
crumbs taken from the centre of a loaf 
about twenty-four hours old ; broil over 
a moderately hot fire about five minutes, 
leaving the meat rather rare. Put onto 
a hot platter. 

Sauce for Venison Cutlets 
Bruise a three-inch stick of cinna- 
mon bark and six cloves. Add one- 
fourth a cup of sugar and the peel of 
a lemon, freed from every vestige of 
white pith. Add three-fourths a glass 
of port wine, and let the whole simmer 
very gently fifteen minutes. Then 
strain over half a cup of currant jelly, 
and let simmer until the jelly is melted. 

Supreme of Cauliflower 
Separate a cauliflower of medium size 
into flow^erets, shorten the stems, trimm- 
ing them to a point. Let the flowerets 
cook in salted boiling water about six 
minutes, then drain, cover with cold 
water, drain again, and let dry on a 
cloth. Line the bottom of a quart tim- 
bale mould with paper, then butter 
the mould thoroughly, and dispose the 
flowerets of cauliflower in the mould, 
one layer above another, to fill the mould 
loosely. Have ready 
one cup of raw chicken 
breast or veal steak, chop- 
ped very fine. Beat into it 
half a teaspoonful of salt, 
half a teaspoonful of pap- 
rika, then one egg. When 
the mixture is smooth, beat 
in, one at a time, two or 
three more eggs (two will do 
if the eggs are large), then 
gradually beat in one cup, 
each, of cream and strong 
chicken broth or consomme. 
Pour the mixture over the 
cauliflower in the mould. It should 
cover the cauliflower completely. Set 
the mould, on many folds of paper, in 
a saucepan of hot water. Let cook in 



the oven nearly an hour, or until the 
mixture is firm throughout. Remove 
the mould from the water, and after five 




Crystalized Basket with Crystalized Flowers 
and Leaves. By Mrs. Mitchell 

or six minutes invert on the serving- 
dish. Serve with Hollandaise, Becha- 
mel, or crearn sauce. 

Hollandaise Sauce 
Beat the yolks of three eggs. Add 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, a dash 
of paprika, two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
and half a cup of hot water. Set the 
dish over hot water. Let cook, stirring 
constantly and adding butter, a table- 
spoonful at a time, until half a cup in 




Supreme of Cauliflower 

all has been used. When the sauce 
thickens, remove from the fire, stir in 
the juice of half a lemon, and serve at 
once. 



240 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Mincemeat 
Chop fine enough cold, boiled or 
roast beef to make two quarts. Add 
four quarts of chopped apple, one pound 




Little Gold Cakes 

of chopped suet, three pounds, each, 
of raisins and cleaned currants, one 
pound of citron, sliced fine, two pounds 
of brown sugar, one pint of molasses, 
one pint of boiled cider, one pint of 
syrup from sweet-pickled pears, 
peaches, or melons, one and a half 
pints of meat liquor, the grated rind 
and juice of six lemons, four ounces 
of candied orange rind, cut in small 
bits (boil in a little sugar and water 
to soften before cutting), two nutmegs, 
grated, one tablespoonful of ground 
cinnamon, one tablespoonful of ground 
mace, and two tablespoonfuls of salt. 
Let simmer ten or fifteen minutes, 
mixing thoroughly. Then store such 
portion as is not required for im- 



Little Gold Cakes 
Cream one -fourth a cup of butter. 
Beat into it half a cup of sugar, the 
well-beaten yolks of four eggs, one- 
fourth a cup of milk, and seven-eighths 
a cup of sifted flour, sifted again with 
one level, teaspoonful of baking-powder. 
Flavor with one teaspoonful of orange 
extract. Bake in small tins (fifteen 
will be needed). When cold, spread 
with frosting, and sprinkle that with 
tiny candies of assorted colors. 

GaufFres 
Melt two level tablespoonfuls of 
butter. Gradually beat in two-thirds 
a cup of granulated sugar, then the 
beaten yolks of two eggs, half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract, two-thirds 
a cup of pastry flour, and, lastly, the 
whites of two eggs, beaten dry. Beat 
all together very thoroughly. Have 
a gauffre iron moderately heated over 
the fire. Oil the surface very thor- 
oughly. Put a teaspoonful of the 
mixture in the centre of the iron, turn 
down the cover, and, when the mixture 
spreads to the edge of the hot plate, 
clamp the handles together; turn to 
cook the other side ; trim off the wafer 
to the edge of the plates, remove to a 
clean paper, and roll at once while 
hot. This recipe will make from 
twenty- two to twenty-four gauf^fres. 




Gauftres with Gauffre Iron 



mediate use in fruit jars. The recipe 
makes ten quarts of material. 



Carrot Pudding 

Scrape and wash five or six medium- 



Seasonable Recipes 



241 



sized carrots, and grate enough of 
them to weigh one pound. Chop fine 
one pound of beef suet. Mix the suet 
with half a pound of 
cleaned currants, half a 
pound of sultana raisins, 
one-fourth a pound of figs, 
chopped fine, one-fourth a 
pound of candied orange 
peel or preserved citron, 
shaved fine, and one cup 
of sugar. Then add the 
grated carrot, mixing 
thoroughly with the hand. 
Sift together one cup and 
a half of sifted flour, one 
teaspoonful of salt, two 
level teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder, one tea- 
spoonful of cinnamon, one teaspoonful 
of mace or nutmeg, and half a tea- 
spoonful of cloves, and mix these 
thoroughly through the carrot and 
fruit. Turn the mixture into a but- 
tered mould, and steam four hours. 
Serve hot with foamy or wine sauce. 

Biscuit Glace, Chatham Style 
Beat the yolks of six eggs. Add 
half a cup of sugar, and set the dish 
into hot water. Cook, w^hile beating 
vigorously, until the mixture thickens. 
Then set into cold 
water, and continue 
beating until cool. 
Flavor with a scant 
tablespoonful of va- 
nilla extract or four 
tablespoonfuls of 
sherry or Kirsch. 
Then fold in one cup 
of cream, beaten solid, 
six marrons, preserved 
or glace, and six cher- 
ries, candied or maras- 
chino, cut into tiny 
bits. Put the mixture 
into six paper cases, 
smoothing the mixture on top with a 
silver knife. Set the cases in a mould, 
— with a paper betw^een the cases, if 



one be piled above another. Cover 
close to keep out salt water, and 
pack the mould in equal measures of 




Biscuit Gh 



Pai 



Ca^ 



ice and salt. Let stand about tw^o 
hours. Have ready a cup of cream 
flavored, sweetened, and whipped firm, 
then chilled. Pipe this on the top^of 
the frozen mixture in the cases. Set 
the cases in fancy paper cases, and serve 
at once. 

Apples, Manhattan Style 
Core and pare six or eight apples. 
Cook in a syrup made of a cup and a 
half, each, of sugar and water, turn- 
ing often, until the apples are tender 



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Apples, Manhattan Style 

throughout. Have ready as many 
rounds of sponge cake (stamped out 
from slices half an inch thick) as 



2^2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



apples. Set an apple on each piece 
of cake. Reduce the syrup until it 
will jelly, — half a tumbler of currant 




Plum Pudding ready for a Christmas 
Gift, Mrs. Herbrick 

jelly simmered with it gives a pretty 
color, — then pour it over the apples 
and cake. Have ready a cup of sweet 
cream, beaten solid. Use this and 
maraschino cherries to ornament the 
dish. Add the cream when the apples 
are cooled slightly. If the dish be 
served hot, pass the cream in a sepa- 
rate dish. 

Lady Baltimore Cake, No. i 

(Mrs. James Dow) 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream. 
Then gradually beat in one cup and a 



half of granulated sugar. Add, al- 
ternately, three-fourths a cup of water 
and two and one-fourth cups of flour 
(half a pound), sifted a second time 
with two level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder and one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt. Beat the whites of four eggs dry. 
Beat part of the eggs into the cake 
mixture, also one cup of walnut meats, 
broken in pieces and floured, and, lastly, 
the rest of the egg whites. Bake in a 
moderate oven about fifty minutes. 

Our Christmas Cake 
The above recipe for Lady Baltimore 
cake was baked in a tube pan. For 
the icing boil half a cup of granulated 
sugar and one-third a cup of water 
four or five minutes. Add a table- 
spoonful of lemon juice and sifted con- 
fectioner's sugar to make a frosting 
that will spread upon the cake without 
dropping off. Spread the frosting on 
the sides of the cake with a silver knife, 
and press into this, as fast as spread, 
prepared or fresh cocoanut. When the 
sides of the cake are finished, drop a 
narrow line of frosting around the 
cake close to the edge, and cover it with 
cocoanut. Inside this edge dispose a 
conventionalized flower design. For 
this use cherries, pistachio nuts, and 
angelica, or citron. Use the angelica 




Mushroom Dish and Bell used for Partridge 
Berry Vine and Mayflower growing in Vases 



Seasonable Recipes 



243 



or citron for the stems, the cherries, 
cut in eighths lengthwise, for the 
blossoms, and the blanched nuts, cut in 
eighths, for petioles and calyx. In the 
illustration, rosebud candle holders 
(costing about thirty-five cents per 
dozen) are pressed into the cake to 
hold the candles. 

Lady Baltimore Cake, No. 2 

(May Shepherd) 

Cream one cup of butter. Grad- 
ually beat into it two cups of sugar. 
Sift together three and one-half cups 
of sifted flour and two level teaspoon - 
fuls of baking-powder, and add the 
flour to the butter and sugar, al- 
ternately, with one cup of milk and 
one teaspoonful of rose water. Beat 
the mixture very thoroughl}^, and, 
lastly, gently fold in the whites of 
six eggs, beaten light. Bake in three- 
layer cake-pans. 

Filling and Frosting for Lady Bal- 
timore Cake 
Dissolve three cups of granulated 
sugar in one cup of boiling water, and 
cook until the syrup will spin a thread 
about three inches in length, or to 
242^ F. on the sugar thermometer. 
Then pour it in a -fine stream onto the 
whites of three eggs, beaten until stiff, 
beating constantly meanwhile. To 
this frosting add one cup of chopped 
raisins, one cup of chopped nut-meats, 
— pecan nuts preferred, — and five figs, 
cut into very thin strips. Cake shown 
in the frontispiece is made by this 
recipe. Half nut-meats, round red 
candies, size of holly berries, and bits 
of angelica are also used to give the 
cake a Christmas aspect. 

Choice Butter Caramels 

Put one pound of sugar, one pound of 

glucose, half a pound of butter, and 

one cup of cream (not milk) over the 

fire. Stir and cook until the mass 



boils throughout. Then stir in gradu- 
ally — so as not to stop the boiling — 
a second cup of cream. Put in the 
sugar thermometer, and let the mixture 
boil, stirring every three or four min- 
utes, until the thermometer registers 
250° F. Then stir in a teaspoonful of 
vanilla, and turn the candy into two 
brick-shaped bread-pans, nicely but- 
tered, or onto an oiled marble between 
steel bars, to make a sheet three- 
fourths an inch thick. When nearly 
cold, cut in cubes. Roll these at once 
in waxed paper or let stand twenty- 
four hours to dry off. Without a ther- 
mometer boil the mass to a pretty firm 
hard ball. No better caramels can be 
made. The time of boiling varies, but 
often an hour is required. In summer 
the caramels will hold their shape 
better if boiled from two to four degrees 
higher. 

Crearti Caramels 
Put one cup and a fourth of sugar 
and half a pound of glucose into a 
saucepan. Beat the yolk of an egg, 
then gradually beat into it one pint 
of cream. (Milk will not do very well. 
Some form of fat, as cream or butter, 
is essential to good results.) Add one 
cup of the cream mixture to the sugar 
and glucose. Set the saucepan over 
the fire, and stir and cook constantly 
until the mixture boils. Then con- 
tinue stirring while the rest of the 
cream and egg is gradually stirred into 
the boiling mixture. The cream must 
be added very slowly, that the syrup 
may be kept boiling constantly. Let 
the whole boil to 230° F. Then stir 
in one-fourth a cup of butter, creamed 
and mixed with half a cup of pastry 
flour. Let the mixture cook to 240° F. 
Then turn into an oiled bread-pan. 
When partly cold, cut in cubes. Nuts 
or candied fruit may be added at 
pleasure to any caramels as the mixture 
is taken from the fire. 



Little Christmas Dinners 
I. 

Clam Broth Tomatee, Browned Crackers. 

Olives. Celery Hearts. 

Fried Smelts, Sauce Mayonnaise, with Red Pepper Puree. 

Roast Gosling, Potato Stuffing. Apples Roasted with the Goose. 

Sherry-and-Currant Jelly Sauce. Cauliflower au Gratin. 

Ham from Young Pig, Roasted. Celery-and-Plneapple Salad. 

Baba, Wine Sauce. Biscuit Glace, Chatham Style. 

Lady Apples. Cumquats. Bonbons. Black Coffee. 

II. 

(Soup Course) Consomme with Flageolet and Quenelles. 

Soup Biscuit. King Olives. Celery. 

(Fish Course.) Oyster Croquettes, Sauce Tartare. 

(Entree.) Chicken Tdibale en Surprise, Bechamel Sauce. 

(Piece de Resistance.) Hot Truffled Galantine of Turkey, Giblet Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Egg Plant Fritters. Cranberry Punch. 
(Game Course.) Roast Woodcock on Toast. Cress Salad. 

(Sweet Course.) Mince Pie. Ginger Ice-cream. 

Nuts. Bonbons. Marrons Glace. 

Black Coffee. 

III. 

White Almond Soup. 

Salted Cashew Nuts. Celery. Pimolas. 

Truffled Fish Forcemeat, Fish Shape, Holland.^ise Sauce. 

Duchess Potato Roses with French Balls. 

Chicken-and-Cauliflower Tembale, Bechamel Sauce. 

Larded Fillet of Beef, Fried Juliennes of Egg Plant, 

Brown Tomato Sauce. 

Celery, Or.ange-and-Nut Salad. 

Marron Parfait. Little Cakes. 

Bonbons. Coffee. 

IV. 

Children's Dinner 

I. 

Consomme with Barley. Celery Hearts. 

Roast Turkey (Uxstltfed), Cranberry Sauce (Strained). 

Mashed Potatoes. Canned Peas. CREAiiED Celery. 

Caramel Ice-cream. Lady Fingers or Little Gold Cakes. 

Bonbons. 

II. 

Chicken Broth with' Rice. 

Roast Flllet of Beef, au Jus. 

Candied Sweet Potatoes. Stringless Buttered Beans. 

Grape Jelly. 

Lettuce Hearts, French Dressing. 

Orange Sherbet. Christmas Cakes. 

Bonbons. Nuts. 



Family Menus for a Week in December 

Et is scarceig an exaggeration ta sag tijat .mang matters bi^jtcfj agitate tfje ptttilic mititi are not iuortfj 
tJjougfjt in comparison iuitfj tfjis subject [Kietarg questions] to ixrijicfj a tfjougfjt is selUom Qitim.—I^atg. 



^re^kfast 

Malt Breakfast Food. 

Baked Sweet Apples, Cream. 

French Rolls. Coffee. 

Chicken Broth with Rice. 

Broiled Venison Steak, Bernaise Sauce. 

Currant Jelly. Mashed Potatoes. 

Celery-and- Apple Salad. 

Custard Souffle, Foamy Sauce. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Creamed Oysters on Toast. 

Celery. OHves. 

Tiny Individual Charlotte Russe. 

Coffee. 



'Bresikfasi 

Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Cream. 

Sausage Baked with Apples. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cheese Souffle. 

Apple-and-Celery Salad. 

Cold Baking-powder Biscuit, Toasted. 

Cereal Coffee. 

^nner 

Boiled Leg of Lamb, Caper Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. Baked Squash. 

Cottage Pudding, Wine Sauce. 

Coffee. 



"Brecikfast 

Sanitas Toasted Corn Flakes, Cream. 
Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin. 

Hashed Brown Potatoes. 

Rye-meal Muffins, Apple Butter. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Macaroni with Cheese and Tomato. 

Steamed Carrot Pudding, Wine Sauce. 

Tea. 

^nner 

Roast Spare Ribs of Pork, Apple Sauce. 

Turnips in Cream Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Celery. 

Grape Juice Jelly, Cream. 

Coffee. 



. ^rea.kfcLSt 

Gluten Grits^ Cream. 

Cold Spare Ribs of Pork. 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk. 

Graham Griddle Cakes. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lamb Croquettes, Canned Peas. 

Parker House Rolls. 

Celery. 

Rice Pudding, Porcupine Style. Tea. 

^nner 

Broiled Haddock, Maitre d' Hotel. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Buttered Onions (Boiled). 

Pineapple Sherbet. Baltimore Cake. 

Coffee. 



breakfast 

Barley Crystals, Cream. 

Smoked Dried Beef, Creamed. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Corn-meal Muffins. 

Cereal Coffee. 

^Dinner 

Cannelon of Beef, Tomato Sauce. 
Onions Stuffed with Nuts. 

Egg Plant Fritters. 
Caramel Junket. Cookies. 

Supper ■ 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. ■ Croutons. 

Bread and Butter. Canned Fruit, 

Tea. 



^re^kf^Lsi 

Sah Codfish Balls, French Pickle. 

Buttered Toast. Doughnuts. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Oyster Stew. 

Cabbage Salad, Bread and Butter. 

Apple Pie, Cheese. 

^nner 
Boiled Cod, Pickle Sauce. 
Boiled Potatoes. 
Brussels Sprouts, Buttered. 

Poor Man's Rice Pudding. 
Browned Crackers. Cheese. Celery. 
Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Broiled Ham. 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk. 

Fried Mush. Dry Toast. 

Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Creamed Codfish au Gratin. 

Potatoes Scalloped with 

Onions. 

Brownies. 

Cocoa or Tea. 



Dinner 
Stuffed and Roasted Beef 

Heart. _ 

Cabbage Scalloped with Cbeese . 

Mashed Potatoes. 

f Squash Pie. 

Black Coffee. 



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After Breakfast Chat 

By Janet M. Hill 

One thorn of experience is worth a whole wilderness of warning. — Lowell. 



AS sheep proverbially follow 

/\ blindly their leader, so people 
JL j^are often wont to take up any 
new thing presented to them without 
giving a thought to the reason for so 
doing. As caterers for our tables and 
as cooks, we are not independent 
enough. "We should have a reason 
for the hope that is in us." 

Take such matters as the drinking 
of water, the morning plunge in cold 
water, or the non-eating of meat. Why 
should each and all follow the lead of 
another? The quantity of water one 
should drink depends on the state of 
the weather, the quantity of liquid 
food ingested, the amount of exercise 
taken, the size of the individual, and 
the conditions of the heart and the 
digestive organs. How can one speci- 
fic quantity be prescribed for all? 
Three pints of water per day may be 
none too much for one individual, but 
this quantity will keep another in a 
state of chronic flatulency, morbidity, 
and ill-health. There are people who 
should never drink water unless thirsty. 

The shock to the system of a daily 
plunge in cold water has shortened the 
days of many who have blindly fol- 
lowed the lead of some one with more 
presumption than knowledge. 

Shall I give up the eating of meat, 
and bribe my family into doing the 
same, because some one urges it ? No 
woman can with impunity carry out 



such a procedure — though many at- 
tempt it — unless she be well grounded 
in the knowledge of the composition 
of food and its function in the body. 
She must know food values. Aside 
from reasons of sentiment, meat is ob- 
jectionable on account of the large 
quantity of uric acid which it intro- 
duces into the system; but dried peas, 
beans, and lentils are open to the same 
objection, and in an intensified degree. 
What, then, are you gaining by the 
change? There is no doubt but that 
many eat too much meat, and that it 
were wise to replace meat, to some ex- 
tent, with nuts, cheese, and foods rich 
in gluten, as the grains, but the matter 
must be made one of individual study. 
There should be no blind following of 
the blind. 

We read that the Japanese, after the 
most vigorous exercise, can — though 
dripping with perspiration — sit down 
in a direct draft of air to cool off. In 
this procedure they who follow the 
Japanese as leaders will not wait long 
to pay the penalty of their folly. The 
habits and daily mode of life for count- 
less generations has made this thing 
possible, perhaps, to the Japanese. 
With us it is, "Live to learn, and you 
will learn to live." 

We are inclined to shun physical 
exercise, and, following the lead of the 
crowd, think even housework detracts 
from our health no less than from our 



After Breakfast Chat 



247 



dignity; but the woman who takes 
physical exercise sets the blood in cir- 
culation, delivers the nutritious ele- 
ments of the food ingested where they 
are needed, and drives waste matters 
out through the pores of the skin. 
Often dish-washing will prove a most 
efficacious remedy for the dull, drowsy 
sensations just after breakfast. Let 
active exercise start the perspiration, 
and cold extremities will become warm, 
the brain clear, and the day will not 
be lost. 

Some one writes: "Why do you give 
baked potatoes in the breakfast menus ? 
It takes too long to cook them. " There 
are always small potatoes in the lot 
you buy: these will bake in twenty- 
five minutes. But whether you choose 
to bake them will depend entirely on 
conditions. You will not heat a gas 
oven to bake four or five small pota- 
toes; but, if you are to bake muffins, 
which takes just twenty-five minutes, 
and at the same time broil chops or 
bacon in the lower oven, why not bake 
the potatoes? 

Another subscriber, writing for a 
recipe for "pressed meat," says, "Per- 
mit me to remark how too frequently 
the fact is ignored by contributors to 
cooking magazines and housekeepers' 
columns in newspapers that an un- 
numbered army of housekeepers who 
live in apartment houses cook exclu- 
sively with gas, and, when directions 
for cooking four, six, or eight hours 
are given, the recipes are valueless 
because of the extravagance involved." 

Through lack of the rudimentary 
knowledge of a subject, the impossible 
is sometimes expected. One would 
not buy a spring chicken or beef from 
the loin for a dish of pressed meat. 
There are far more appetizing ways 
of presenting these choice articles. 
For pressed meats, cheap cuts of meat 
are selected, and these absolutely re- 
quire long, slow cooking. The sim- 
mering burner of a gas range, turned 



low, will give ample heat for this kind 
of cooking, and at no great expense, 
even if the process be prolonged six or 
eight hours. We venture to say that, 
properly used, the quantity of gas con- 
sumed will not much more than equal 
that required for baking in an hour 
and a half the same weight of tender 
meat. But all cooking with gas must 
be watched. The same is true when 
wood or coal is the fuel, for the pot 
must be kept at a gentle simmer con- 
stantly, not occasionally, if good re- 
sults are to be secured Is it not ex- 
travagance in the use of time quite as 
much as of fuel that is the matter ? 

As quite a number of our subscribers 
asked for a recipe for Lady Baltimore 
cake, we have printed two recipes, 
both of which are illustrated. We 
followed, in making the cakes, the 
recipes sent, measuring the baking- 
powder level and the flour after once 
sifting, filling the cup with a spoon. 
In sending us cake recipes, we Hke to 
have these points made plain to us. 
We print no recipes for cake that we 
have not ourselves tried and approved. 
Both cakes would cut to better advan- 
tage and in prettier-shaped pieces for 
serving, if they were baked in two layers 
to give more surface. A subscriber 
from St. Paul writes: "We think the 
recipe for 'Nut Layer Cake, Nut Frost- 
ing,' given in the August-September 
number for 1904, corresponds exactly 
to Owen Wister's description of 'Lady 
Baltimore Cake.' This cake is one 
of our favorites, and, after reading the 
story, we immediately named it 'Lady 
Baltimore.'" 

Miat jelly is another recipe for which 
numerous requests have been received. 
Two bunches of mint to two pounds 
of apples will seem a large proportion 
of mint, but even this quantity will 
produce only a very deUcately flavored 
jelly. The flavor seems to be dissi- 
pated during the cooking. We are in- 
clined to think that quite as well- 
flavored jelly would be obtained by 



248 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the use of an essence of spearmint — if 
such there be — or] creme-de-menthe 
cordial. Either of these could be 
added to the hot jelly, in quantity to 
suit the taste, when the jelly is ready 
to turn into the glasses. In making 
up only two pounds of apples, boil 
the juice that drains from the jelly 
bag apart from that secured by pres- 
sure, as the former will give a much 
clearer and handsomer jelly than the 
latter. 

A steward wishes suggestions that 
will aid in feeding 30 fraternity boys 
at a Western university. The boys 
pay $3.50 per week. It is desired that 
this money supply the table, pay S14 
per week for help and about $3 per 
week for fuel. Two waiters receive 
board for their work. A simple ex- 
ample in arithmetic gives 735 meals 
to be supplied for $87.50, or about ii| 
cents per meal. Or, putting it another 
way, 35|- cents is allowed for the food of 
each person per day. This sum should 
suffice for a fair table, at which some of 
what might be termed "luxuries" are 
to be found. 

The dietary suitable for a wage- 
earner is usually estimated at 25 cents 
per day. 10 J cents added to this — 
nearly one-third more — should cer- 
tainly be enough to provide a bill of 
fare acceptable to students. Indeed, 
even in New England, where prices 



are much higher than in the West, 
acceptable board has been provided 
for girls at school for 25 cents per day; 
but this is close work. 

For 25 cent dietaries our corre- 
spondent is referred to Bulletins 29, 32, 
46, 52, 55, 91, Experiment Stations, 
United States Department of Agri- 
culture. With these as guide, it will 
be a comparatively simple matter to ar- 
range working bills of fare acceptable 
to students and that shall furnish 
the proper food elements in right pro- 
portion. In planning these (or any) 
bills of fare, while always keeping an 
eye to the cost of the raw materials, 
the following things must be looked 
out for, — nutrition, bulk and waste, 
agreeable flavor and variety. As we 
have often emphasized in these pages, 
"cut-and-dried" bills of fare should be 
discarded. Make much of the ele- 
ment of surprise. Adapt the food to 
the season, and also to the weather. 
A suet pudding, w^hich may be whole- 
some in a crisp, cold, bracing air, would 
be quite out of place on a warm day, 
or when written examinations were in 
progress. Fruit, either dried or fresh, 
should be provided plentifully. 

Note. — In our January number we shall 
give a menu for a ladies' luncheon. This 
menu we shall carry out in detail, giving the 
recipes and illustrations of all the dishes pre- 
pared. — Bd. 



Worth While 

By Marguerite Ogden Bigelow 



Ah, what makes things worth the saying? 
Vigor, brevity, compression, 
Strength or beauty of expression? 

No, the truth they are conveying. 



Ah, what makes life worth the hving? 
Joy of conquest or ambition, 
Wealth or beauty or position? 

No, the loving and the giving. 




HOME IDE,AS 
AND ECOPiOMIES 







Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



A HANDY place for the cook-book 
is directly above the cooking table 
on a slanting shelf at the height of the 
eyes. There the book can remain open, 
and be kept clean and be easily read. 



If one finds herself confronted with 
deep drawers in which many things 
must be kept, and kept smooth, insert- 
ing trays as in a trunk, is a good idea. 

Housewives are rarely consulted by 
architects in regard to the use of 
drawers, and in these days, when so 
much is built into houses, one is sure 
to find herself filling a deep drawer, 
and emptying it upon her next visit to 
get the needed article, which is certain 
to be at the bottom. This, of course, 
musses everything more or less, and is 
not conducive to patience. Whereas 
in half an hour a thin board may be 
sawed the correct length and width, 
two narrow cleats tacked .on to the 
sides of the drawer, and, when a cover- 
ing of white cloth is made, it is finished. 
The covering buttons on, then it can 
be easily removed, washed, and re- 
turned to its usefulness. 

If tape hangers are sewed at either 
end, the tray is easily removed when 
wishing to get at things beneath. The 
drawer in mind is twenty-one and a 
half inches long, fourteen inches wide, 
and ten inches deep, and the tray is 
twenty-one and a fourth inches long, 
and only eleven inches wide, so that 
the three inches left give ample room 
to reach underneath, and in this way 
the tray can be moved back and forth, 
and does not need to be removed 



always. In this particular drawer the 
cleats are put four inches from the top. 
On the tray, table cloths are kept, and 
below napkins, and it answ^ers as well 
as two separate drawers. 

M. B. Robinson. 






A MEDIUM-SIZED paint brush will 
be found most useful in cleaning a 
room. If a clean, dry brush is used all 
about the window-panes, around the 
mop-boards, in the crevices of the 
doors, and wherever there may be in- 
equalities to catch dust, on sweeping 
days, you will be surprised at the 
amount of dust dislodged, and at the 
pervading look of cleanliness, and you 
will find that soap and water will not 
have to be applied half as frequently. 



An ordinary blackboard eraser, such 
as is used in schools, will be found a 
most useful implement. The corners of 
a hard-wood floor are always a diflicult 
place to reach with the weighted brush, 
but the eraser will reach all corners and 
give a good polish, or, if the polish 
has come off in any place, rub on a 
little wax, and then poHsh with the 
eraser, and the floor will look as good 
as before. 

Shoes can be kept pliable and the 
natural color can be retained by apply- 
ing vaseline frequently with a soft 
cloth, and then rubbing off with an 
eraser. 



Toilet paper is one of the most useful 



250 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



articles to have in and about a kitchen. 
It can be used to wipe off molasses 
that may have trickled down the jug, 
to wipe up a little grease that has 
fallen upon the floor or the stove, to 
grease a pan or dish quickly, to remove 
a spot or speck from the window or 
mirror, to absorb some of the grease 
from a dirty pan, and thus prevent 
clogging up the sink. In fact, it can be 
used in countless ways, and, after being 
used, it can be at once burned, thus 
saving much washing of cloths. If a 
housekeeper will only try keeping a 
package in a handy place in the kitchen, 
she will be surprised how often it comes 
into play. 

A few cents expended for clean, new 
wrapping paper is a good investment, 
as the paper will save much time 
spent in cleaning up a table on which 
cooking has been done, and will keep 
the table looking fresh much longer, 
besides saving time in washing dish 
cloths. Then many vegetables can be 
prepared on the paper, and the refuse 
can be gathered up in the paper and 
thrown out or burned, and the paper 
itself can be burned, making a great 
saving in time and trouble. 

M. iv. R. 
* 

Lettuce Bag 

BAGS 15x24 inches made from 
bobbinet or worn-out net curtains, 
are indispensable in our household. 



between you and the light, this is a 
most effectual way to locate any de- 
posit of any kind on the l^af. 



When lettuce, parsley, radishes, 
spinach, or other tender green stuff 
comes from the m^arket, it is washed 
ready for use, then put it in a bag, which 
is thrown into the ice chamber or on the 
shelves of the refrigerator. This method 
of keeping such articles insures a clean 
ice-box. 

To be certain that lettuce is entirely 
free from the small bugs so often found 
on it, hold each leaf, after washing, 



Winter Jelly Making 

Prepare fruit juices ready for jelly, 
minus the sugar. Seal while boiling hot 
in jars or bottles. When cold weather 
comes, open a jar of each kind, and 
make up just as you would in the sum- 
mer season. This gives nice fresh 
jelly, which is always better than that 
which has been made several months. 



Swiss Steak 



Three pounds round steak, cut one 
and one-half inches thick. Pound until 
fibre is thoroughly broken up, then knead 
into it, with the knuckles, two large 
tablespoonfuls flour. Season with salt 
and pepper. Into the skillet put large 
tablespoonful of butter and brown the 
steak on both sides, then pour boiling 
water over it, letting it just simmer for 
three hours. A bav leaf may be added 
if liked. 

This is an excellent way to prepare 
a cheaper cut of beef, and, when done, 
it is very good. 






WHEN strained honey gets candied, 
place the jar containing it in 
some warm water on the back of the 
stove, and leave until clear again. 
No injury is done to the honey. 



Save the tops of discarded stockings. 
Cut off the feet and sew across, making 
a sort of mitten. They are invaluable 
for lifting ice or pans of hot ashes. 
Two sewed one inside the other makes 
a thicker pair. d. m. i^. 

* * 

Suggestions 

WHEN hanging the newly starched 
muslin curtains, put a thimble 
on the end of the curtain rod, and it 



Home Ideas and Economies 



151 



i 



will run in easily without tearing the 
curtain. 

A new and successful way of alter- 
ing the color of an old or faded silk 
or piece of ribbon is called the dry 
method. Put sufficient gasolene to 
cover well the goods in a bowl or other 
vessel large enough to hold it, then add 
ordinary oil paint, such as comes in the 
little tubes for artists, until the proper 
color is attained. Test the shade with 
a bit of the material to be colored , and , 
when the right amount of paint has 
been added, plunge in the goods, rins- 
ing them rapidly up and down so as 
to insure an even color. Wring, and 
press while damp. By this means it is 
often possible to secure trimmings for 
peculiar shades of cloth that are hard 
to match. Old trimmings and pas- 
sementeries can easily be made as good 
as new, and of exactly the tone de- 
sired. 

To clean badly discolored vases, 
wash with tea leaves and vinegar. 
The combination is better than either 
alone. 

A good way to finish a pine floor that 
is to be stained around the edges is to 
apply an oil stain first, then a varnish 
stain, and lastly a coat of cleai or 
natural-colored floor finish. The clear 
floor finish adds to the wearing quali- 
ties of the floor without darkening it, 
as several coats of colored varnish will. 
The oil stain prevents white marks. 

G. D. 

* * 
How to Eat 

Horace Fletcher's Rules for the Perfect 
Feeding of the Human Body 

Here are Horace Fletcher's rules for 
eating, which are given to all the 
patients of the Harvard Dental School 
Dispensary : — 



1. Eat only in response to an actual 
appetite, which will be satisfied with 
plain brea"d and butter. 

2. Chew all solid food until it is 
liquid and practically swallows itself. 

3. Sip and taste all liquids that have 
taste, such as soup and lemonade. 
Water has no taste, and can be swal- 
lowed immediately. 

4. Never take food, while angry or 
worried, and only when calm. Waiting 
for the mood in connection with the 
appetite is a speedy cure for both anger 
and worry. 

5. Remember and practise these four 
rules, and your teeth and health will be 
fine. 

Equally significant of the growth of 
Fletcherism are the efforts made by the 
proprietor of a chain of fifty dairy 
restaurants in New York and elsewhere. 
It consists of the distribution of a nicely 
printed folder among the customers, 
containing a "dietetic code." It in- 
cludes instructions on "How to Eat." 
Some of them are: "Eat slowly and 
masticate thoroughly " ; " Never permit 
yourself to eat a meal in a condition of 
nervous worry"; "Eat what you find 
of benefit " ; "Do not eat anything that 
disagrees with you." Commenting on 
the last rule, the folder says :— 

The following out of this rule will 
require self-denial, but some time in 
your life you must definitely decide 
whether you are to be master over 
your body or be its slave, and it is 
better to make the decision at once, 
and after you have practised correct 
habits of eating for a short time it 
• will be surprising how soon your true 
appetite for things that are wholesome 
and good will assert itself, and you 
will instinctively turn to the right 
foods. 

Here, then, is a "quick-lunch" res- 
taurant advising its patrons to use 
slow-lunch methods. — From the World's 
Work. 



k 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of oiir subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps ; for menus, $i . Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1182. — H. L. H., Minneapolis, Minn.: 
"Kindly tell how to cook a chicken (separated 
at the joints) in a casserole. We have had 
three casseroles broken the first or second 
time they were used." 

Casserole Cookery 
Probably casseroles of French or 
German ware, which are ' 'fine-grained" 
and thoroughly "burned," are the 
most durable, and those of Japanese 
ware, which are rather coarse, are 
the least durable, of all the dishes 
found in the shops for this use. Still, 
the coarse, cheap Japanese casseroles 
will stand much ser\dce, if they be 
properly treated. A fine, highly 
glazed and finished French dish will 
stand being filled with a cold liquid 
when the dish is hot, or it may be 
used for sauteing the article that is 
to be cooked in it; but neither of 
these things should be attempted with 
Japanese ware. If the liquid in a 
casserole needs replenishing, add hot 
water from the teakettle; that is, 
if the heating of a little stock in a 
saucepan seems too much of an effort. 
The evaporation of all, or a large por- 
tion, of the liquid from the casserole 
would seem to indicate rapid cooking, — 
a condition most undesirable, when 
the best results are looked for. 

Recipe for Casserole Cooking 
Cook the article, separated into 
joints, in butter, bacon, or salt-pork 
fat, made hot in a frying-pan, until 



browned on one side. Then turn the 
pieces, and brown the other side. 
Put the joints into the casserole: put 
in about a pint of hot stock or water, 
cover the dish, and set into the oven. 
If it be young chicken, partridge, 
squirrel, whole squab, or quail, let cook 
at a gentle simmer about an hour 
and a quarter. Then add two dozen 
potato balls or cubes, one dozen tin}^ 
young onions or peeled fresh mush- 
room caps, and a dozen slices of car- 
rot, all browned in the fr}dng-pan, 
and three or four tablespoonfuls of 
sherry wine, with salt and pepper to 
season. Cover closely, and let cook 
fifteen or twenty minutes longer. Send 
to the table in the dish, and without 
removing the cover. Flour and water 
mixed to a thin dough may be rolled 
into a rope or string, under the hands, 
and pressed upon the casserole, where 
the dish and cover meet, to keep in 
flavor. 



Query 1183. — F. A. B., Bonham, Tex.: 
"How can tomato catsup be made thick and 
red like that sold in the stores? How may 
com, beans, and peas be canned at home by 
a short process? Do not wish to boil them 
three or four hours." 

Thick, Red, Tomato Catsup 
Use only ripe tomatoes. Add pa- 
prika for pepper, and cook until thick. 

Process for Canning Vegetables 
See the "new process" of canning 



Queries and Answers 



^53 



described on page 183 of the Novem- 
ber magazine. We know of no short 
process of canning vegetables other 
than tomatoes. 



Query 1184. — Mrs. D. A. G., Jamesville, 
N.Y.: "Recipes for preserve called golden 
chips, apple ginger, and mint jelly that will 
keep indefinitely." 

Golden Chips (Orange) 

Cut the oranges in quarters, and 
carefully press the quarters on a 
sieve or grater, to remove all the juice 
and edible pulp. Put the peel to 
soak in salted water (a tablespoonful 
to a quart) over night. The next 
day drain and boil in fresh water 
until tender. Again drain the peel, 
then cut into slices, and add to the 
juice. Take sugar equal in weight 
to that of the juice and peel. Stir 
until the sugar is dissolved, then cook 
slowly, stirring occasionally, until the 
syrup candies on the peel. Then 
set the peel aside in a cool place to 
dry. 

Golden Chips (Pumpkin) 
Cut a small, sweet pumpkin in halves, 
and the halves into narrow strips. Re- 
move peel and seeds, then cut the strips 
into thin slices, notfmore than half 
an inch thick. Weigh the prepared 
pumpkin, and take an equal weight of 
sugar, also half a cup of lemon juice, 
to each two pounds of sugar. Put 
the pumpkin and sugar into a pre- 
serving kettle in alternate layers. 
Pour the lemon juice over the whole, 
cover, and let stand twenty-four hours. 
Have ready the lemon peel, neatly 
shredded, and an ounce of ginger 
root for each pound of fruit. Add 
these to the kettle with a cup of water 
for each three pounds of sugar. Cook 
until the pumpkin is tender, then pour 
into an earthen jar. In a few days 
pour the syrup from the pumpkin. 
Boil to reduce and thicken it, and 
pour, hot, over the pumpkin. 



Gingered Apples 
For five pounds of prepared apple 
allow five pounds of granulated sugar, 
five ounces of ginger root, three lem- 
ons, and a pint of water. Bruise the 
ginger root, and put it over the fire 
with the water. Let it simmer some 
hours, adding water, when needed, to 
get a strong decoction of ginger. Wipe 
the lemons carefully, then grate off 
the thin yellow rind, and extract the 
juice. Add these to the pint of ginger 
water. Remove the pieces of ginger 
from the water, or tie them in a mus- 
lin cloth, and let them remain till the 
confection is finished. Add the sugar 
and the apple. Select tart apples, 
pare and core, then chop them rather 
coarse. Boil the whole until the bits 
of apple look clear. Then store in 
jars. 

Mint Jelly (Mint-Apple) 
Greenings are a good variety of 
apple for this purpose. Wipe the 
apples, and remove defective places, 
but do not core them. Cut in halves 
or quarters. Put over the lire with 
water barely to the top of the apple. 
Let cook until the fruit is tender 
throughout. About twenty minutes 
before the cooking is completed, have 
ready, for two pounds of apple, the 
leaves from two bunches of mint, 
washed, dried, and chopped fine. Stir 
these into the apple. Finish cooking 
at a gentle simmer, then drain through 
a jelly bag. Allow three-fourths a 
cup of sugar to each cup of juice. 
Put the juice over the fire to boil 
and the sugar in the oven to heat. 
When the juice has boiled ten min- 
utes, add the juice of one lemon and 
green color (liquid) to get the required 
shade, also the sugar. Let the whole 
boil till a little jellies on a cold plate 
(probably less than five minutes), then 
strain into hot glasses. For a stronger 
flavor of mint, use more of the green 
mint. Two pounds of apples should 



^54 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



yield a pint of juice by draining and 
another pint by pressure. 



Query 1185.— D. W., Sparta, Wis.: "What 
kind of potatoes are served with roasts? 
What garnishings are suitable for beef and 
veal roasts?" 

Kinds of Potatoes Served with 
Roasts 
Parboiled potatoes baked in the 
roasting-pan ; mashed potatoes; po- 
tatoes, white or sweet, baked in their 
skins; candied^ sweet potatoes; po- 
tato (white or I sweet) croquettes or 
boulettes; mashed potatoes, Vienna 
style (shape of roll, egged-and- 
browned) ; potatoes f arci ; scalloped 
(raw) potatoes. 

Garnishes for Beef and Veal Roasts 
Cress is probably the most suitable 
garnish for a platter holding a roast 
of beef or veal. Unless the platter 
be unusually large, the whole space 
is needed for the disposal of the slices 
of meat. 

Query 1186. — Private School, Eastern City: 
"Kindly give ideas for breakfasts and suppers 
for school-girls, also refreshments for Friday 
night parties or for holiday evenings," 

Breakfast and Supper Dishes at 
Schools 
Once in a while, this winter, try 
ham broiled after the recipe given in 
this number of the magazine. I did 
not see boiled ham in the list of dishes 
submitted. Carefully cooked and 
sliced, this is most appetizing, served 
at either meal, with creamed potatoes, 
potatoes hashed in milk, or baked 
potatoes. At supper it may be served 
with lettuce, string bean, or potato 
salad. The chopped remnants of ham 
can be presented in sandwiches, with 
scrambled eggs, or as one of the in- 
gredients in veal loaf, which is another 
acceptable dish for breakfast, supper, 
or evening, provided it be prepared 
with care 



Cooked cheese dishes are always rel- 
ished; and, if the evening be set aside 
for a social time rather than study, 
such dishes may be eaten in moderation 
at supper by all but the most delicate. 
Among the best cheese dishes are the 
ItaHan cheese dish "gnocchi a la Ro- 
main," tomato rabbit, cheese pudding 
(bread, cheese, eggs, and milk, baked 
delicately), and hot rice or macaroni 
with tomato and cheese. Cream cheese 
with stewed prunes or hot baked sweet 
apples and cream may be eaten for 
supper even by young children. 

Fresh fish should supply variety at 
schools located not too remote from 
the sea. Nothing can be more deli- 
cate than broiled halibut with maitre 
d' hotel sauce ; and the cheaper haddock 
and cod are by no means to be depised. 
At a restaurant, managed by a woman, 
for boys from the School of Technology 
(Boston), creamed haddock au gratin 
in individual dishes is always a 
stand-by that receives merited attention. 
Waffles, when once the irons are in- 
stalled, will prove a luxury always 
hailed with delight. 

Menus for Friday Night Parties 

I. 

Noisette Sandwiches. 

Bread with Filberts, Orange Marmalade. 

Macaroons. Sponge Cake. 

Cocoa. Whipped Cream. 

II. 

Hot Bouillon ia Cups. 

Pulled Bread. 

Chicken Salad, Olives. 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

III. 

Waldorf Salad. 

Tiny Baking-powder Biscuit, 

Brownies. AA'aldorf Triangles. 

Fruit-and-Nuts Glace. 

Cocoa. 

IV. 

Cold Roast Turkey, Sliced Thin 

Olives. Buttered Rolls. 

Lady Fingers. Meringues. 

Frozen Apricots. 



Queries and Answers 



255 



Query 1187. — Madame G. E. L., Montreal, 
Canada: "Grecian recipe for rose-leaf pre- 
serve." 

Rose-leaf Jam (a Grecian Recipe) 

(Adelaide Keen) 
Gather the petals of fresh red roses, 
being sure that they are free from in- 
sects. Add an equal quantity of sugar 
and water, enough to dissolve the 
sugar, and set the whole in the sun 
under glass until the sugar is well 
melted. Then cook for twenty min- 
utes, stirring well. Pour into jars, and 
cork tight. The Grecian custom is to 
serve this jam with coffee to guests who 
call in the afternoon. 



Query 1188. — Subscriber: "Menu for a 
New Year's banquet to fifty people, with turkey 
for the main course and four or five courses. 
Menu for a home dinner and suggestions for 
decorations and entertainment for a twentieth 
wedding anniversary, something rather elab- 
orate for the menu, also recipe for French 
bread." 

New Year's Banquet (50 People) 

Oysters Scalloped in Shells. 

Brown Bread Sandwiches. 

Or 

Creamed Oysters in Timbale Cases Edged with 

Chopped Parsley. 

Olives. Celery. 

Roast Turkey, Giblet Gravy. 

Cranberry Sauce. Sweet Pickled Peaches or 

Melons. 

Raw Potatoes, Scalloped. 

Canned String Beans, Maitre d'Hotel. 

Halibut-and-Lobster vSalad on Lettuce Leaves. 

Graham Bread Sandwiches. 

Pineapple Sherbet. 

Assorted Cake. 

Water Crackers. Edam Cheese. 

Coffee. 

Home Dinner 20th Anniversary 
I. 

Consomme with Flageolet and Macaroni Rings. 

Celery. Olives. 

Fish Timbales, Truffled. 

Hollandaise Sauce with Shrimps. 

Parker House Rolls. Tiny Sour Gherkins. 

Chicken Patties. 

Larded Fillet of Beef, Roasted, 

Brown Mushroom Sauce. 

Buttered Brussels Sprouts. 



Potato Croquettes or Candied Sweet Potatoes. 

Spiced Gooseberries or Currants. 

Lettuce-and-Canned-Asparagus Salad, 

French Dressing. 

Cheese Balls. Browned Crackers. 

Caramel Parfait with Browned Almonds 

or 

South Chatham Souffle, Frozen in 

Individual Paper Cases. 

Assorted Cakes. 

Marrons Glace. 

Coffee. 

II. 

Oysters, Lemon Quarters. 

Brown Bread Sandwiches, 

Consomme with Chicken Quenelles and Peas. 

Olives. Celery. 

Baked Turbans of Chicken Halibut, 

Fish Bechamel Sauce. 

French Potato Balls, Buttered. 

Hot-house Cucumbers, 

French Dressing. 

Roasted Turkey, Giblet Gravy. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Egg Plant Fritters. 

Cranberry Punch. 

Pineapple-and-Celery Salad. 

Fruit Cup. 

Wafers. Coffee. Cream Mints. 

Ginger Chips. 

Those whose wedding anniversary is 
being observed might appear at some 
time during the evening in some of the 
garments worn on the wedding day. 
An amusing account of the wedding 
and wedding journey might be given 
by some one who is a good story-teller. 
The story might be in accordance with 
facts or directly opposed to the char- 
acter, traits, and habits of the couple. 
Some one might read a poem written 
for the occasion, and there should be 
singing. The singing of "Auld Lang 
Syne" might close the evening. 

A few flowers in suitable receptacles 
at the centre and four corners of the 
table answer nicely. If more are de- 
sired, they should be disposed on 
mantels. Palms and potted blooms 
are always used to advantage in halls 
and bay windows. 

French Bread 
Soften a cake of compressed yeast 
in one-fourth a cup of boiled water. 



256 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



cooled to a lukewarm temperature, 
and stir in about three-fourths a cup 
of flour, enough to make a dough 
that may be kneaded. Knead until 
the little ball of dough is smooth and 
elastic. Then make a cut across the 
top in two directions. Have ready 
a pint of boiled water, cooled to a luke- 
warm temperature, and into this put 
the ball of dough. It will sink to the 
bottom of the dish. In about fifteen 
minutes it will float upon the water, a 
light puffy "sponge." Into this water 
and sponge stir a teaspoonful of salt 
and between five and six cups of flour, 
enough to make a dough stiff enough 
to knead. Knead or pound the dough 
until it is smooth and elastic, and does 
not stick to the hands or board. It 
will take fifteen or twenty minutes. 
Part of the time the dough may be 
lifted up high and dropped onto the 
board with force. When properly 
kneaded, cover the dough, and set it 
aside in a temperature of about 70° 
F. until it has doubled in bulk. There 
will be about two and three-fourths 
pounds of dough. This may be baked 
in any kind of a pan ; but, to secure the 
crusty French loaf, a Russia iron pan, 
giving long, narrow loaves, is desira- 
ble. For one of these pans divide the 
dough into two equal pieces. Roll, 
and stretch these under the hands, on 
the board, until they are as long as the 
pan. Have a round stick (like a cur- 
tain roller) lightly floured. Press this 
down through the centre, lengthwise 
of the loaf, and roll it back and forth, 
to make a furrow. French bread is 
concave rather than convex on the top, 
but this shaping may be omitted. 
Cover, and let stand to become light. 
Cut three or four slantwise cuts in the 
top of the bread, five or six inches apart. 
Bake about forty minutes. When 
nearly baked, brush over the surface 
with the white of an egg beaten with 
a tablespoonful of cold water, and re- 
turn to the oven. Repeat the glazing, 
if desired. 



Query i 189.— Mrs. C. D. N., New York: 
"Recipe for mint jelly to serve with roast 
lamb." 

Mint Jelly (Gelatine) 
A recipe for mint jelly made with 
apples is given in answer to query 1 184. 
This jelly can be kept almost indefi- 
nitely. That made by the following 
recipe will keep but a short time. Let 
one tablespoonful of granulated gela- 
tine stand for some time in cold water 
to cover. Boil one cup of granulated 
sugar and one cup of vinegar five or 
six minutes. ' Add the softened gela- 
tine and one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, 
of salt and paprika and stir until the 
gelatine is dissolved. Then add three- 
fourths a cup of mint leaves, chopped 
fine, and enough green vegetable color 
(liquid) to tint as desired. Set the 
dish into ice and water, and stir oc- 
casionally until the mixture begins to 
thicken. Then turn into small moulds 
or wine glasses, and set aside to become 
firm. When turned from the moulds, 
garnish with tips from two or three 
stalks of mint. 

Query 1190. — Mrs. J. T., Southport, Conn.; 
"Recipe for orange parfait made with several 
yolks of eggs." 

Orange Parfait 

Wipe the outside of two choice 
oranges, then grate off the yellow rind, 
cut in halves, and extract the juice. 
Add also the juice of half a lemon. Put 
the juice and half a cup of sugar over 
the fire. Beat the yolks of eight eggs. 
Add half a cup of sugar, and cook these 
in the hot juice and sugar until the 
mixture becomes quite thick. Then 
remove from the fire, and beat, occa- 
sionally, while cooling. When per- 
fectly cold, fold in one pint of cream, 
beaten solid. Turn into a mould, fill- 
ing it to overflow, cover securely, and 
let stand packed in equal measures of 
ice and salt about two hours. Candied 
orange peel,[cut fine, may be mixed in 
with the cream if desired. 



Queries and Answers 



257 



Query 1191. — F. T. K., Jamaica Plain, 
Mass.: "How long will anchovy paste keep 
after it has been opened? vSimple recipes for 
the use of anchovy paste for Sunday night 
suppers. Explicit directions for canning beets 
for winter use. Recipes for simple puddings 
that can be prepared in the morning and baked 
or steamed for six o'clock dinner. Practical 
recipe for a cake (suitable for children) that 
can be used with a variety of fillings and for 
cup cakes. What can I do with grape jelly 
that will not harden? Is macaroni supposed 
to be nutritious and good for children ? " 

Keeping Anchovy Paste 

We cannot say just how long a jar 
of anchovy paste can be kept after it 
is opened. Anchovies put up in oil or 
salt may be kept months in a cool 
place without deterioration after the 
opening of the bottle, the oil and brine, 
respectively, keeping the air from con- 
tact with the fish; but anchovy paste 
and essence lose in palatability, and 
should be used as soon as expedient. 

Poached Eggs with Anchovy Toast 
Have ready a slice of toast and a 
carefully poached egg for each person 
to be served. Dip the edges of the 
toast in boiling salted water, and set 
on a hot plate. Spread the toast 
lightly with butter, and then with an- 
chovy paste. Then set an egg in the 
centre of each slice of toast. 

Anchovy Toast with Savory 

Custard 

Spread toast as before with butter 
and anchovy paste. Then set these 
into the oven to keep hot while the 
custard is prepared. Take one or more 
yolks (no whites) of eggs for each slice 
of toast and a level tablespoonful of 
butter for each yolk. Melt one table - 
spoonful of butter in a saucepan (the 
fire should be very moderate, or a 
double boiler will be necessary) . Break 
in a yolk, and mix a little. Add an- 
other tablespoonful of butter, another 
yolk, and so on, until all are added. 
Shake in a little pepper and salt, and 



continue to stir until the whole be- 
comes a very thick, creamy custard. 
Pour this over the prepared toast, and 
serve at once. 

Scotch Woodcock 
Have at hand two freshly boiled 
chicken, turkey, or duck livers. Pound 
and rub these to a smooth paste with 
two teaspoonfuls of anchovy paste, the 
yolk of a raw egg, and two level table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Add pepper to 
season, and press the whole through a 
sieve. Prepare four squares of toast. 
Spread the mixture over these, and set 
them into the oven. Beat the yolks of 
two eggs and one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of salt, and stir into a cup of cream 
made hot in a double boiler. Continue 
stirring until the mixture thickens, 
then pour it over the toast and serve 
at once. 

Scotch Woodcock No. 2 
Prepare the liver and anchovy mixt- 
ure as above, but use three raw yolks 
of eggs. Cook this in a cup of hot 
cream, and pour it over the fresh-made 
toast. 

Anchovy Toast with Spinach 
Have ready slices of toast. Wet the 
edges in boiling salted water or leave 
them crisp. Spread with butter, then 
with anchovy paste, and finish with 
spinach, chopped fine and made hot in 
a tablespoonful or two of cream sauce. 
Poached or scrambled eggs may be set 
above the spinach, when desired. 

Mock Crab Toast 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in 
a double boiler or the blazer of a chafing- 
dish (over hot water). Put in eight 
ounces of cheese and a tablespoonful of 
anchovy paste, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, and a teaspoonful of mustard, if 
desired. Stir constantly until the 
cheese is melted. Then stir in the 
beaten yolks of two eggs, diluted with 
half a cup of cream, and continue stir- 



258 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ring until the mixture becomes smooth 
and thick. Then serve at once on sHces 
of toast or crackers. 

Canning Beets 
Only tender young beets, about an 
inch and a half in diameter, can be 
canned successfully at home. Cook 
these as for the table, drain, cover with 
cold water, and with the hands push 
off the skins. Put them into hot fruit 
jars, and fill the jars with boiling salted 
water, a teaspoonful to a quart. Put 
on the rubbers and covers, and set to 
steam for one hour. Then tighten the 
covers, and let cook fifteen minutes, and 
set aside when cold. 

Simple Puddings, etc. 
Outside of puddings on the order of 
the carrot pudding given among the 
seasonable recipes in this issue, we know 
of no puddings that can be made ready 
in the morning and cooked in the after- 
noon, unless it be such simple puddings 
that they might just as well be made 
at the time of cooking, as 

Poor Man's Rice Pudding 
Wash half a cup of rice, and turn it 
into a baking-dish. Add one cup of 
raisins, three-fourths a cup of sugar, 
a teaspoonful of salt, a grating of nut- 
meg, and a quart of milk. Let cook 
in a very slow oven about two hours, 
stirring in the crust that forms on the 
top and dislodging the rice and raisins 
that settle to the bottom of the dish 
three or four times meanwhile. Add 
more milk or a little cream,. if the pud- 
ding looks at all dry when cooked. 
Wait until reheated, then serve. This 
is also good cold. The cooking must 
be very slow, or the rice will be dis- 
colored. Use all the milk the rice will 
take up and thicken. The pudding 
should be so moist that a sauce will not 
be needed. 

A Simple Steamed Pudding 
Sift together one cup of entire- wheat 



flour, half a cup of white flour, half a 
teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of 
soda, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, 
mace, and cloves, mixed together. Beat 
one egg. Add half a cup, each, of 
molasses and milk, and stir into the dry 
ingredients. Stir in four tablespoonfuls 
of melted butter and three-fourths a 
cup of fruit (currants, sultana raisins, 
citron, candied peel, chopped figs, dates, 
or prunes), either a variety or a combi- 
nation of two or more. Steam two 
and one-half hours. Serve with hard 
sauce. The dry ingredients might be 
sifted into a mixing-bowl and the fruit 
gotten ready beforehand ; but the liquid 
should not be added until time of cook- 
ing. 

Plain White Cake 
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream ; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, 
then half a cup of milk and two cups 
of sifted flour, sifted again with three 
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 
Lastly, beat in the whites of three eggs, 
beaten dry, and one teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract. This may be baked 
in a loaf, in layers, or in small tins. In 
small tins broken nut-meats or currants 
may be added. 

Uses for Grape Jelly that does not 
jelly 

Dilute the jelly with water. Stir 
until dissolved. Add lemon juice, and 
use for grape sherbet. Use with gela- 
tine for a dessert jelly, with gelatine 
and whipped whites of eggs for grape 
sponge, with gelatine and whipped 
cream for grape bavariose. Thicken 
it with cornstarch. Add a little lemon 
or orange juice, and use for a pudding 
sauce. Thicken with half a cup of 
cornstarch to a quart of liquid. Add 
the whipped whites of three eggs, and 
turn into a mould. Serve the dish 
with a custard made of the yolks of 
the eggs. 

(Continued on page x.) 



Advertisements 



We furnisK 
tKese spoons 
^witHout cost 



except the expense of 
mailing and packing 




They are A-i 
standard silver 
plate, superbly 
fashioned, French gray (sterling) finish, free 
from advertising, and manufactured exclusively 
for us by the celebrated silversmiths, Wm. A. 
Rogers, Ltd., whose name they bear. 




'iUDAHlOi 
! BEEF . 

For Soups, Sauces, 

Savory Sundries, 

and Beef Tea 

Careful analysis by 
UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT 
CHEMISTS establishes 

CUDAHY'S REX BEEF EXTRACT 

As absolutely pure. 
Available always for instant use. 

How to ^et the spoons 

For each spoon desired send a metal 
cap from a 2-oz. or larger-sized jar of 
Rex Beef Extract or Cudahy's 
Nutritive Beef ELxtract and 1 cents in 
silver or stamps to cover packing and 
mailing expense. (A set of six spoons 
requires six metal caps and 60 cents.) 
When sending more than one cap, reg- 
ister your letter. 

State plainly whether you want Tea- 
spoons or Bouillon Spoons. 

If you cannot obtain it, send us the 
name of your dealer and 50 cents in 
stamps, and we will send you the regular 
size, a 2-oz. jar of Rex Beef Ex- 
tract; or 60 cents, and we will mail 
you spoon and jar. 

Cudahy's Rex Beef Ex- 
tract is sold by grocers and druggists. 

THE CUDAHY PACKING CO. 

Beef Extract Department 
8 33d Street SOUTH OMAHA. NEB. 

Send 2-cent stamp for " From Ranch to Table," 
an illustrated cook book. 



When you "write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-S 

ix 



CHooL. Magazine. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Nutritive Value of Macaroni 
Average composition of macaroni 
(Atwater) : — 

Per Cent. 

Water 10.3 

Protein 31.4 

Fat 9 

Carbohydrates 74.1 

Ash 1.3 

Average composition of sirloin steak 
(Atwater) : — 

Per Cent. 

Refuse 12.8 

Water 54.0 

Protein . 16.5 

Fat 16.1 

Ash .9 

Carbohydrates .0 

When we wish to consider the nu- 
tritive value of any food product, we 
note, first, the percentage of protein, 
and, secondly, the percentage of car- 
bohydrate that it contains. Then we 
consider the availability of these com- 
pounds or the ease with which the 
system can assimilate them. A super- 
ficial comparison of the composition 
of macaroni and sirloin steak certainly 
speaks well for macaroni. Hoy, speak- 
ing of gluten food, says: "Gluten food 
is available in four forms, macaroni, 
vermicelU, spaghetti paste, and alpha- 
bet noodles. The macaroni and spa- 
ghetti paste are well adapted, combined 
with tomato or cheese, for baked dishes. 
These are especially good for adults, 
while vermicelli and alphabet noodles, 
boiled plain and served with cream, are 
admirable dishes for children or those 
having feeble digestion." Vermicelli 
and alphabet noodles are very delicate 
forms of pasta, and soften very 
quickly in cooking. When cream is 
not available or for a change, they are 
very acceptable with the platter gravy 
{au jus) from roast beef or mutton. 
For any but very young children we 
see no reason why macaroni and spa- 
ghetti, cooked long enough, could not 
be served with cream or gravy in place 
of the more delicate gluten productions. 
None of these gluten foods are made as 
much use of in our dietaries as their 
food value warrants. 



A Doctor's Trials 

He Sometimes gets Sick like Other People 

Even doing good to people is hard 
work, if you have too much of it to do. 

No one knows this better than the 
hard-working, conscientious family 
doctor. He has troubles of his own, — 
often gets caught in the rain or snow, 
or loses so much sleep he sometimes 
gets out of sorts. An overworked Ohio 
doctor tells his experience: — 

' 'About three years ago, as the result 
of doing two men's work, attending a 
large practice and looking after the 
details of another business, my health 
broke down completely, and I was 
little better than a physical wreck. 

* ' I suffered from indigestion and con- 
stipation, loss of weight and appetite, 
bloating and pain after meals, loss of 
memory and lack of nerve force for 
continued mental application. 

"I became irritable, easily angered, 
and despondent without cause. The 
heart's action became irregular and 
weak, with frequent attacks of palpita- 
tion during the first hour or two after 
retiring. 

"Some Grape-nuts and cut bananas 
came for my lunch one day, and pleased 
me particularly with the result. I 
got more satisfaction from it than 
from anything I had eaten for months, 
and on further investigation and use 
adopted Grape-nuts for my morning 
and evening meals, served usually with 
cream and a sprinkle of salt or sugar. 

"My improvement was rapid and 
permanent in weight as well as in 
physical and mental endurance. In 
a word, I am filled with the joy of 
living again, and continue the daily use 
of Grape-nuts for breakfast and often 
for the evening meal. 

"The little pamphlet, 'The Road to 
Wellville,' found in packages, is in- 
variably saved and handed to some 
needy patient along with the indicated 
remedy." Name given by Postum 
Co., Battle Creek, Mich. "There's 
a reason." 



Advertisements 



rhe Real 
Soodness of 
^t\fiZ Mince Meat 




Heinz Kitchens are always wide 
open to visitors. 30,000 people 
yearly inspect the making of 



'^^■^j:m 



VARIETIES 



Doesn*t it make your mouth water to think 
of the exquisite flavor of luscious mince pie? 

Well, that's the kind of pie Heinz Mince 
Meat makes, only there's more than mere 
flavor to the Heinz story. 

Prepared in model kitchens by neat uni- 
formed workers, Heinz Mince Meat is the 
exemplification of purity, the standard for all 
that is good. It is composed of the choicest 
meat ; the richest white suet ; large juicy, 
flawless apples; Four Crown Valencia con= 
fection raisins, carefully seeded; plump 
Grecian currants, each one thoroughly 
cleansed; Leghorn candied citron, orange 
and lemon peel and the purest spices. 

Imagine all these, prepared with the most 
exacting care, blended so skillfully that the 
flavor leaves nothing to be desired, and you 
have an excellent idea of 

HEIN2 

Mince Meat 

Can any thoughtful housewife give a good 
reason for making her own mince meat when 
such an economical luxury as Heinz Mince 
Meat is at hand ? 

Sold everywhere in glass jars, stone crocks, and tins 
of convenient size. Some other special Heinz dainties 
for the Christmas season are Preserved Fruits, Fruit 
Jellies, Apple Butter, Cranberry Sauce, Euchred Figs, 
Sweet Midget Pickles, etc. 
Let us send you a copy of "The Spice of Life.'* 

H. J. HEINZ COMPANY 

New York Pittsburgti Cbicago London 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 

xi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Query 1192. — Mrs. H. G. C, Slayton, 
Minn.: "Recipes for rocks, currant loaf, and a 
good, light-colored spice cake."^ 

Rocks 
Beat the whites of eight eggs until 
dry. Add a scant half-teaspoonful of 
cream of tartar, and very gradually 
beat in one pound of fine granulated 
sugar, then gently fold in one pound 
of blanched almonds, shredded very 
fine. Have ready boards an inch thick, 
covered with waxed paper, as formerly 
shown in these pages for meringues. 
Place the preparation on the paper in 
balls about an inch in diameter, and 
bake in a very slack oven. Then color 
a delicate straw shade. They should 
remain in the oven at least three-fourths 
of an hour before they take on any 
color. 

Currant Loaf 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream. 
Gradually beat in one cup of sugar, 
then one cup of currants, and the beaten 
yolks of three eggs. Add alternately 
half a cup of milk and one cup and 
three-fourths of sifted flour, sifted again 
with four level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder, and lastly the whites of three 
eggs, beaten light. Turn into a shallow 
pan, dredge the top with granulated 
sugar, and bake about forty minutes. 

Light-colored Spice Cake 
Cream half a cup of butter and beat 
the yolks of four eggs very hght, then 
gradually beat one cup of sugar into 
each, and finally beat the two together. 
Pass through a sieve, together, three 
cups of flour, half a teaspoonful of soda, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of mace 
and nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of cin- 
namon, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt, and one teaspoonful and three- 
fourths of cream of tartar. Add these 



No CofFee 

The Doctor said 
Coffee slavery is not much different 



from alcohol or any other drug. But 
many people don't realize that coffee 
contains a poisonous, habit-forming 
drug, — caffeine. 

They get into the habit of using 
coffee, and no wonder, when some 
writers for respectable magazines and 
papers speak of coffee as "harmless." 

Of course, it doesn't paralyze one in 
a short time like alcohol, or put one to 
sleep hke morphine, but it slowly acts 
on the heart, kidneys, and nerves, and 
soon forms a drug-habit, just the same, 
and one that is the cause of many over- 
looked ailments. 

' ' I wish to state for the benefit of 
other coffee slaves," wTites a Vernlont 
young lady, ' 'what Postum Food Coffee 
has done for me. 

' 'Up to a year ago I thought I could 
not eat my breakfast if I did not have 
at least two cups of coft'ee, and some- 
times during the day, if very tired, 
I would have another cup. 

"I was annoyed with indigestion, 
heart trouble, bad feeling in my head, 
and sleeplessness. Our family doctor, 
whom I consulted, asked me if I drank 
coffee. I said I did, and could not get 
along without it. 

' 'He told me it was the direct cause of 
my ailments, and advised me to drink 
Postum. I had no faith in it, but 
finally tried it. The first cup was not 
boiled long enough and was distasteful, 
and I vowed I would not drink any 
more. 

' ' But, after a neighbor told me to 
cook it longer, I found Postum was 
much superior in flavor to my coffee. 
I am no longer nervous, my stomach 
troubles have ceased, my heart action 
is fine, and from 105 pounds' weight, 
when I began Postum, I now weigh 
138 pounds. I give all the credit to 
Postum, as I did not change my other 
diet in any way." Name given by 
Postum Co., Battle Creek, Mich. Read 
the little book, "The Road to Well- 
ville," in packages. "There's a rea- 
son." 



Advertisements 



Of Special Interest 

to Women who ^o 

to Market 



You might not expect to learn any- 
thing new or interesting about such a 
commonplace article of food as sau- 
sage, but wait a moment. We are 
going to show you that there is some- 
thing both new and interesting to be 
said on this old subject. 

You have heard the expression 
" linked sweetness," which, of course, 
hardly applies to sausage, but, if we 
may be allowed to coin a somewhat 
similar phrase, "linked deliciousness *' 
seems exactly to describe 



Another point is that you know 
who made the sausage, each package 
being stamped with our name. This 
fact is worth knowing when you con- 
sider that we insist on perfect cleanli- 
ness in every part of our immense 
plant. 

And of decided interest is the 
fact that only choice portions of 
young fresh pork are used for Squire's 
*' Arlington *' Sausage, this meat 
being chopped (not ground) and 



Squire's '•Arlington" Sausage 



Now, the new feature about these 
sausage is that they are put up in one- 
pound packages, each pound being 
double-wrapped in heavy parchment 
paper and sealed. This work is done 
right in our factory, where the sausage 
are made. 

This fact of itself is interesting, 
but still more so are some of the re- 
sults of the package plan. For ex- 
ample, you are sure that the sausage 
you buy have not been exposed to 
the dust and germ-laden air of the 
market or to promiscuous handling. 
The package wrapped in our factory 
is unopened until it reaches your 
kitchen. 



seasoned with pure spices which we 
ourselves grind. 

If you have never eaten Squire's 
'* Arlington" Sausage, you have a 
treat in store. Your regular dealer can 
supply you if he will. If he seems to 
prefer to sell you something else, send 
us one dollar, and we will send you 
five one-pound packages of Squire's 
** Arlington " Sausage and a sample 
pail of Squire's Kettle-rendered Pure 
Leaf Lard, the finest lard in the 
world. Express paid within 500 
miles of Boston. If you can't use 
five pounds, share them with some 
neighbor. 



N.B. — Vou personally are invited to visit our factory. It is in East Cambridge, only 
ten minutes* ride by electrics from the North Station in Boston. Guides are always waiting 
to show visitors through the plant, and it is well described as " One of the Sights of Boston." 

JOHN P. SQUIRE a COMPANY 

BOSTON, MASS. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



to the butter mixture alternately with 
one cup of milk, and finally beat in the 
whites of four eggs, beaten dry. Bake 
in two brick loaf pans about fifty 
minutes. 

Query 1193. — Mrs. L. B. B., Oakland, Cal.: 
"Recipe for Neapolitan cake — three layers, 
white, pink, and chocolate — with a cream 
filling and chocolate frosting, rich orange 
layer cake with cream filling flavored with 
orange, and baby cream candy." 

Neapolitan Cake 
Cream one cup of butter. Beat in 
gradually two cups of sugar, then al- 
ternately half a cup of milk and three 
and one-half cups of flour, sifted again 
with four level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder. Lastly, beat in the whites of 
seven eggs. Take out one-third of the 
mixture and flavor it with half a the 
spoonful of lemon extract. Flavor one- 
half of the rest with half a teaspoonful 
of rose extract and tint it rose-color. 
To the last third of the mixture beat in 
half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of ground 
cinnamon, and one ounce and a half 
of melted chocolate. Boil three table- 
spoonfuls, each, of sugar and water 
two or three minutes. Add half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla and sifted confec- 
tioner's sugar to make a thin paste. 
Spread this over each layer to hold 
them together, having the chocolate 
layer on the bottom and the pink one 
next to it. Make the usual boiled 
frosting with three-fourths a cup of 
sugar, one-fourth a cup of water, one 
ounce of chocolate, and the white of 
one egg, and spread over the top layer. 

Rich Orange Layer Cake 

butter cake is not as appropriate as 
a cake made rich with yolks of eggs. 
Thus we give the latter. Flavor the 
cream with grated rind of orange and 
sweeten before whipping. 

Take six eggs, the weight of the eggs 
in sugar, half their weight in flour, 
the grated rind of a lemon and two 
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Beat 



the yolks until light in color and thick. 
Add the sugar gradually, then the 
grated rind and juice of the lemon. 
Have ready the whites of the eggs, 
beaten dry. Cut and fold half of 
them into the cake mixture, then cut 
and fold in half of the flour, the other 
half of the whites, and the rest of the 
flour. Bake the mixture in two shal- 
low pans. 

Baby Cream Candy 

Put five pounds of sugar, — cof- 
fee A is preferable to granulated 
sugar, — one pint of water, and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of cream of tartar 
over the fire. Stir until the sugar is 
melted, then wash down the sides of 
the pan with the hand wet in cold 
water, cover, and let boil vigorously 
five minutes. Remove the cover, and 
boil without stirring to 275° F. (nearly 
to the "soft crack" stage). Pour the 
candy onto a cold, oiled platter or 
marble, leave until it cools a Httle, then 
add two vanilla seeds (taken from 
vanilla beans). A tablespoonful of 
vanilla extract will do, though much of 
the flavor is wasted. Fold the candy 
together until it cools a little, then 
pull over a hook until almost cold, 
then pull out in bars two inches wide, 
and mark in strips the length desired. 
When cold, break apart, and let stand 
in a cool, dry place for three or four 
hours. Pack in glass or tin. When 
creamy and soft, the candy is ready for 
use. 

¥0 d«a«7oy disease serms and foal firftses, the waste-pipes, 
MnkB, closets, cellars, and every suspected spot snonld 
M regularly purified wltb 




€ lh1orldes 

DisinfGctant* 

Sold in quart bottles only, by druggists and high-class grocers. 
An illustrated booklet with valuable sanitary hints mailed fret. 
iUdNM HSNRT B, PLATT, 4a Cliff Street, New Yerk 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiv 



Advertisements 



AKERS 

EXTRACTS 



THE 



GROCER 



is a busy man and hasn't 
time to tell people what 
they ought to eat. He 
sells them what they 
order, so if you do not 
get BAKER'S pur6 
fruit EXTRACTS it is 
your fault, not his. 

BAKER'S COME 
BY ASKING 

Comply with all Food Laws 




VS 



izy 



MARION HARRIS NEIL 
FIRST-CLASS DIPLOMEE 

PRINCIPAL SCHOOL OF COOKERY 
405 NORTH 33d ST., PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

Gives practical instruction daily in all kinds 
of Household and High-class Cookery. 
Conespondence lessons. Terms on applica- 
tion. - Pupils can have board and residence 
in the school at moderate terms. 



CLOTHING 

the: 

American Boy. 

BOYS' Clothing was the foun- 
dation of our business nearly 
fifty years ago. 

It has always been our specialty. 
Consequently, our boys' styles are 
uniquely adapted to the wants of 
the American Boy, who demands 
a style of his own. 
Our boys' clothes are built to 
stand hoys' wear, and are a 
standard throughout New Eng- 
land for all-wool fabric and thor- 
ough workmanship. 

The "KNOCKABOUT" 

$6.00 

our well-known Boys' School 
Suit — is the best School Suit in 
the United States. 
\A/e pay particular attention to 
orders by mail. Measuring blanks 
sent on application. 

<3/ 15xAtcyTvV 







(<^ Silver above all and above all other silver 



«* 




1847 ROGERS BROS 



%% 



k 



" Silper Plate that Wears " 

makes the gift tnat makes the day and occasion best remembered. 

Send for catalogue ^^ Z-8" to aid in selection. 



MERIDEN BRITANNIA CO., Meriden, Conn. 

(International Silver Co., Successor.) 



W8PliM»iM«iWl^^«M«^lMii«iMMii 



Pl!?lMlg] 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School. Magazine. 

XV 



Book Reviews 



The HkaIvThfuIv Farmhouse. By 
Helen Dodd. Cloth. Price 60 cts. 
net. Boston: Whitcomb & Bar- 
rows. 

This book is by a farmer's wife for 
the average farmer's wife, and from 
the point of view of one who does her 
own cooking, dish-washing, sweeping, 
and laundry work, yet runs a lawn- 
mower and cares for the flower-beds 
about the house, and does much work 
in the vegetable garden. It may be 
said that the writer has lived in cities 
and studied and worked at other call- 
ings, and has come back to live sin- 
cerely .on a farm. She insists that 
the farm is the best place to make 
this happy, healthful life full of 
beauty and truth, in spite of the hard 
work and many responsibilities; and 
her view is correct. 

The aim of the book, then, is to 
point out the dangers of the old houses, 
and show the most necessary elements 
in right living, and to help those 
starting on a new plan for housework 
by the experiences of one who has 
tried it. 

The contents of this little book, 
read and put into practice, would 
transform the average country farm- 
house into a healthy happy, and beau- 
tiful home. Ellen H. Richards writes 
the introduction and last chapter 



of the book. All the signs of the 
times point to improved ways of living 
in the country and on the farm. 

Progress in the Household. By 
IvUcy Maynard Salmon. Cloth. 
Price $1.10, net. Boston & New 
York: Houghton, Mifflin & Co. 
Ten years ago the author of this 
book wrote "Domestic Service." Here 
are ten sketches on the same subject. 
These are entitled: "Recent Progress 
in the Study of Domestic Ser^dce," 
"Education in the Household," "The 
Relation of College Women to Do- 
mestic Science," "Sairey Gamp" and 
"Dora Copperfield," "Economics of 
Ethics in Domestic Service," "Put 
Yourself in her Place," "Our Kitchen," 
''An Illustrated Edition," and "The 
Woman's Exchange." All the topics 
are treated in a literary, scientific, and 
scholarly manner. The author be- 
lieves that domestic science, like other 
kinds of business, must be placed upon 
a scientific basis. She says, "House- 
keeping affairs have been passive re- 
cipients of general progress, not active 
participants in it. 

"If, then, domestic science is to be 
made a subject of serious study, and 
is to be accorded a permanent place 
in the school curriculum, if the house- 
hold is to profit by the educational 



IF any dealer 

offers you a substi- 
tute when you 
for the 




Over two hundred styles, 
Worn all over the world. 



* Sample Pair, Mercerized, 

# 25c. ; Silk, 50c. Mailed 
^^^ j^ • « ®^ receipt of price. 

/^JP SUPPORTER jlM 

^^^^^r \x\%\9t on having the genuine M Il lJS k 



HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

genuine 

I nnif ^^^ THE NAME AND _THE_ 



MOULDED RUBBER BUTTON. 
GEORGE FROST CO-, iVIakers, Boston, IVIass., U.S.A. 

When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazink. 

xvi 




Advertisements 




"A Kaiamaz 



VI% 



^^**> 



Direct' to Yo\i 





Oven 
Ther-niometer 
All Kalamazoo 
Cook Stoves and. 
Ranges are equip- 
ped with our Pat- 
ented Oven Ther- 
mometer, which 
makes baking 
and roasting easy. 



Kalamazoos are fuel savers. 

They last a lifetime. 

Economical in all respects. 

They are low in price and high in quality. 

They are easily operated and quickly set 
up and made ready for business. 

Buy from the actual manufacturer. 

Your money returned if everything is not exactly as repre- 
sented. 

You keep in your own pocket the dealers' and jobbers' 
profits when you buy a Kalamazoo. 

We Pay the Freight. 

We want to prove to you that you cannot buy, at any price, 
abetter stove or range than a Kalamazoo : there is none better 
made anywhere in the world. 

We want to show you how you can save 20% to 40% in buy- 
ing stoves and ranges direct from our factory at factory 
prices. Will you give us the chance ? 

Do you think ^5 or $10 or $40 worth saving? If so, you 
had better just 

Send Postal for Catalogue No. 389 (''°T„I ^Ss"'") 

Examine our complete line of stoves and ranges for all kinds of fuel ; note their high quality, compare our prices with others, and 
then decide to buy from actual manufacturers and save all middlemen's profits. All stoves blacked, polished, and ready for immediate 
use when shipped. Write now. 

KALAMAZOO STOVE COMPANY. Manufacturers. Kalamazoo, Mich. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



,t **"^'''*^ 




White House Coffee 

does satisfy, or it would not now be sold, 05 
it is, in every State and Territory and wher- 
ever ^zne coffees are wanted. 

It has been tried, tested, and compared with other 
so-called "best" blends of coffees for more than 
fifteen years ; and its healthy increase in sales and the 
unanimous praise of those using it alike testify to its 
splendid, high-grade quality. 

WHITE HOUSE COFFEE is the de- 
spair of its competitors and the delight of its 
friends. 

For this superb coffee we import the finest selections 
from the World's BEST Coffees, and store, roast, and 
pack the same in the lightest, cleanest coffee-factory 
in the world, where automatic machinery handles the 
coffee Without the touch of a hand. 

Buying WHITE HOUSE COFFEE as we sell it 
— in 1,2, and 3 lb. tins — insures its delivery to you 
exactly as we pack it in our factory, loithout the 
possibility of adulteration or admixture or exposure 
to germs of disease. 

If you wish to know more about WHITE 
HOUSE COFFEE, write us. 



DWINELL-WRIQHT COHPANY 

Principal Coffee Roasters 
Boston, Chicago 



progress of the day, it can only be 
after the university has taken the 
initiative and has made all matters 
pertaining to the house and home a 
subject of scientific research." 



Pleasing Booklets 
No more interesting and attractive 
booklets are in circulation than those 
issued by the Proctor & Gamble Co. 
of Cincinnati, Ohio. And, what is 
more, the manuals are of practical 
usefulness in every household. "How 
to bring up a Baby: A Handbook for 
Mothers," is by Elizabeth Robinson 
Scovil, graduate of the Massachusetts 
General Hospital Training School for 
Nurses. It tells what one ought to 
do to keep the baby in good health, 
how to treat the minor ailments of 
childhood, and when to send for a 
physician. We do not know where so 
much really helpful and useful infor- 
mation can be found in equal space. 
All the facts, hints, and directions are 
so arranged and presented that they 
can be consulted with the least effort. 
Likewise the handsome booklet on 
"Approved Methods for Home Laun- 
dering" is, perhaps, the most complete 
as well as the most reliable publication 
ever issued that deals with the problems 
of home laundering. It contains just 
the information one needs, no more 
and no less, on every phase of this 
subject. These booklets are very 
handy, and cannot fail to be vers^ help- 
ful to wise and efficient action in the 
household. 



The latest chapter of Mark Twain's 
autobiography is chiefly devoted to a 
reminiscence of how he made use of 
certain language when he found the 
buttons off his shirts, and how his wife 
repeated the language verbatim to let 
her husband hear how it sounded. It 
seems to have had the desired effect for 
the time being, and it may therefore 
be recommended for the treatment of 
paternal pr